New user of G4 - need advice on selection of printer, DV and digital camera

I am a recent convert to mac and need advice from experts on the following:
I plan to use my G4 MDD primarily for home computing, experimenting with digital photography, create DVDs and explore multimedia primarily as a hobby. Please advice me on selection of a decent digital camera and or a DV camera. I am not sure if I have a decent DV camera - whether this will be good enough for still photos as well. My G4 has firewire ports.
Also I am interested in buying a printer that I can use with my mac as well as connect to a two other windows systems. My printing needs are primarily documents and maybe photos.. I think that going in for a laser printer makes sense in terms of reliability .
I am not looking for the highend equipment - willing to spend upto 750 $ on all items. Thanks in advance.

raja,
welcome to discussions.
Digital Camera, DV camera and colour Laser Printer all for $750 ??
I'm afraid you'll have to go for an inkjet printer if you want colour photos. Expensive doesn't even begin to describe Colour Laser Printers. HP make good printers, but tend to be a bit more expensive to run, Epson make excellent photo printers, are are a bit more economical to run, take a look at the iP4000 and iP5000. I still use my old HP DeskJet 1200 (does A3), and a DeskJet 970Cxi (everyday), both use the same cartidges. These are about 7 years old, there are modern versions retailing now at about half of what I paid for these then(always the case).
Digital cameras can be decided by what purpose you intend to use them for. I have an 18 month old Nikon D100 digital SLR. 6M pixel (which was a lot then) but that might not matter, it takes Nikon lenses (and other manufacturer lenses to the same spec), so I can shoot with a 300mm, 400mm, 600mm lens. Nikon has a D50 out now, a cheaper, newer version of my camera. I can print A3 photo real from 6M pixels and with the right lens I don't need to crop my pictures too much. If you want to print photo real A4 (and that's a LOT of ink) a 3-4M pixel camera would be fine. Most cameras now are 5-8 M pixel, this is because the pictures they take have to be cropped drastically because they have an inadequate lens. On top of that my Nikon takes really great pictures, better than any of my other digi cameras (but not as good as my ancient Olympus 35mm muji-zoom compact with 200 film).
So if you're going to take a lot of close ups in well lit areas, product shots, interior shots with flash, ie. "snaps" rather than photography, any cheap digi camera will do. Good points are
- USB / Firewire connectivity,
- non-proprietry battery technology, ie. it uses 4 x recharable AAs instead of a battery that only fits that camera, and it comes with a AA recharger.
- non-proprietry storage technology, ie. it uses Compact Flash or some other that is used by a large portion of cameras, rather than just be that manufacturer.
- digital zoom is worthless.
If you're doing outdoor photography, wildlife, landscapes, etc, you may want something with a changeable lens and SLR technology, a digital SLR. Not all digital SLR cameras have changeable lenses. Same good points as above, but be prepared to sacrifice one of the points for a good camera. Heavy cameras are easier to hold steady with a big lens, so try for a metal case (it'll be coated in plastic anyway).
For outdoors the most important thing is the amount of light entering the camera (indoors you can control the lighting with flash / fitted lighting), digital SLRs can have enormous lenses (my 28mm hyperzoom lens has a 72mm diameter), compare this to a compact digital camera with a 12mm diameter lens, I take 36x the light of a compact. And it shows in the picture quality.
I'm a complete duffer with DV cameras so I won't lead you astray with this, but be aware some do offer the option to take digital pictures. Indeed some digital cameras can take low quality short movies.
Let us know if you have any more questions.

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HELP: New to Mavericks. Need advice on setting up secure user accounts

Hi,
I need advice on how to best set up user accounts on Mavericks.
I must set up an Administrative account...Any suggestion for best settings here to protect against targeted malicious exploits?
I would also like to set up two user accounts for everyday work with applications and Internet browsing done in such a way that the machine would be protected from malicious attacks but with a minimum of inconvience for the users ( myself and my wife ).
Thanks

Hi hassiman, any exploits will come in the form of users downloading suspect pieces of software like browser add-ons and extensions, device drivers and non-trusted apps.
Make sure that you do not use the admin account for any day to day use
Create two normal user accounts, one for each of you and use them day to day
When using the admin account to set up your system, pay very careful attention to the System Preferences > Privacy & Security area. There are various things to set up properly here:
There are three settings for how people can download software, 1) From Mac App Store only, 2) From App Store and registered developers and 3) from anyone. It defaults to 2) but check it and if you feel uncomfortable with that, set it to 1). This might prevent you from downloading and installing software you think you might need; but think carefully about wether you really need it and therefore wether you should temporarily allow it via a lower setting.
For the firewall, if you dont have a firewalled internet gateway device (a wireless router or similar), make sure the firewall is turned on. Most internet connection equipment does have such a firewall; make sure it is blocking any incoming connections by using its admin tool (usually a web browser interface). Consult its documentation for details.
Whenever OS X asks for a password to complete a task of any kind, look carefully at what is making it ask and if you aren't sure, don't go through with it; it is usually wanting the admin account name and ppassword to complete some kind of system modification (install, config etc.).
Make sure that you are both aware of the danger of installing any software that wants to add itself to your system or web browser. Things like custom search bars, extensions etc. If you are viewing a web page and it says you need "x" to see it or use it properly, make sure you really need to use that web site; otherwise don't do it.
It really all comes down to common sense; the worst security breaches and damage come from users who don't know what to do, but they still click "OK" when they should be clicking "cancel" or "close". Make sure you and your wife are fully aware that responsibility lies with yourselves. It is better to take a minute to decide wether to install something (even if it's 20 times a week) than spend days fixing a compromised system.

BPC 10.0 - New user - SAP_BPC_USER & SAP_BPC_SERVICE needed?

Dear All,
For BPC 10.0, when creating a new user for the first time( no other authorization except just login), apart from the following two roles at the BW end:
/POA/BUI_FLEX_CLIENT
/POA/BUI_UM_USER
do we need to give the following as well at the BW end?
SAP_BPC_USER
SAP_BPC_SERVICE
If so, why?
Thanks,
Peri

Peri,
In addition to the first two roles, SAP_BPC_USER role has the check for RFC Access. You can make a copy of that and use it.Otherwise the two roles are good.
SAP_BPC_SERVICE role is a reference role and by standard it is assigned to the user id BPC_SERVICE which is equivalent to BWBATCH user id in BW. No need to assign this role to any user.
If the user want to process dimensions and do stuffs in the Web Client they need to have the access provided in SAP_BPC_ADMIN, you can go over this standard role and give the necessary authorization to the users by making a copy of it.
Hope this helps...

Need advice on a proof printer

Hello. So glad I found this site!
I'm currently a print graphic designer and starting a home based business integrating my print design knowledge with newly acquired web design skills to offer a complete package.
I am working on an HP computer, as I cannot afford the Mac I want now. I have all of the Adobe software for PC already, but need advice for a printer.
The machines I work on now are like $18k - 25k color lasers, and clearly that is not in my budget. I'm a little lost as to what to look for in a printer that can handle color proofs of my artwork. I create a lot of raster images in PS, but logo design is one of my focuses, so vector output is essential. I almost always create outlines of fonts for the final press ready file, so I'm not so worried about fonts, but color matching is important.
I've been reading about Postscript and PCL, but am still very confused. I'm also a little confused as to what a rip does or if I need one. We use one at my shop, and I know how to use it, but it lives on the server and was explained that it was only necessary for networking the printers.
I am planning to outsource all of my final printing, but I need a printer for proofing. I've been looking at inkjets for affordability reasons, but now I'm not sure if I need a color laser.
Help!!

Dear VectorGirly, I currently have an OKI Postscript c9800 printer. I use postscript printers because I calibrate and use color profiles to get the closest colour match to the outsourced commercial print that I can. I know this is more than you budgeted for, but it really depends what you end up focusing on. (ie web or print). I focus more on print, hence my printer has to proof postscript correctly for me. I am PC based but my files print to both PC and Mac platforms.
Regarding logos and colors ... firstly, my monitor is calibrated with a Pantone Huey. I use matching color profiles in all my design programs: Indesign, Illustrator, Photoshop. My print PDFs include the color profiles. When I email or post proofs of logos or corporate stationery to clients I make sure they understand that colors will look different on various monitors because they are not calibrated for print and are RGB or color prism based rather than CMYK for print. Even if you choose a Pantone color, unless everything is calibrated and with color profiles, it's unlikely that you will get the same color on your screen, let alone on the client's screen. And if the client is wanting a color that looks good on their screen, it's even harder. I always recommend they look at the proof colours on various screens including friends so they can understand how it changes according to monitors.
Regarding PCL and Postscript: When I purchased my OKI (and my former Fuji Xerox pscript), I sent an existing print PDF (that had gone to commercial print previously) to the head office and asked them to do printouts of all the printers I was interested in. All the printers based as PCL were very inaccurate color. The two with postscript took my PDF and printed correctly and were very close to the final printed output. As I am pedantic on colour (colour in Australian spelling), I had to choose the high end postcript laser. Having said that, I am also very interested in the Fuji Xerox Phaser 8500 which is postscript and solid ink (great for the environment and people with allergies and low running costs - much better than laser) - but I need the A3 and banner printing option and they haven't made one for that size yet. I am hoping the new release may offer a bigger size paper. I have a very high allergy level and have to have the window open and a mask on when changing toners and printing, hence my interest in the solid ink for the future.
I always download my fonts through the print PDF to the printer - I never use printer inbuilt fonts. This is so I know that WYSIWYG (what you see is what you get) when I print commercially as they also download/use the embedded PDF fonts.
Also, somewhere down the line you may find yourself forced to choose between focusing on web and print.
I recommend you choose what you love best.

I currently sold my iphone 4s to someone else and I think I forgot to delete the icloud on its account. Will the new user of my old iphone be able to download apps and use my money? Apparently, I cannot buy new apps on my ipad.

Help? Will the new user be able to use my account to buy apps?

If you did not sign out of your Apple ID in theory the new owner could use your account. However, they would also have to know your password in order to use the account.
What do you mean by you can't buy apps on your new iPad? That is such a broad statement. You are not signed into your account in Settings>Store? The new owner tried to use the Apple ID and and your account was disabled?
I would get in touch with the new owner if you have concerns. You will need to work this out somehow. I suppose that you could wipe the device using Find My iPad if it's not too late and all of the conditions for doing so are still in place.

I have a 2010 Macbook Pro and am a very new user to Mac community. My Mac is just hanging and I am unable to shut it down or do anything at all. I left it for 2.5 days hoping the battery will run flat but it is not working. Pls help! I am desperate. Tx

I have a 2010 Macbook Pro and am a very new user to Mac community only started to use this PC a few weeks ago.
My Mac is just hanging and I am unable to shut it down or do anything at all. I left it for 2.5 days hoping the battery will run flat but it is not working. Pls help! I am desperate. Tx

In order to resolve the issue if it occurs again, more info would be helpful as to what occurred prior to the "hang." One potential fix would be to try a Safe Boot:
After the Mac is completely shut down, push the power button and immediately after the startup tone, hold down the Shift key. The Shift key should be held as soon as possible after the startup tone but not before.
Release the Shift key when you see the gray Apple icon and the progress indicator (looks like a spinning gear).
There should be a message that says "SafeBoot." After the Mac is completely booted, try restarting and see if the issue is gone.

Need advice on choosing laser printer for use w/Illustrator

I know there are a few other threads out there on printers but I'm hoping to get answers specific to my situation. I need a laser printer that isn't astronomically priced and as big as a warehouse. Basically we send all our stuff to outside printers, but need a good printer for proofing our work. Currently using an HP 4200n supplied to us (4 artists) by our company. We'd like to get a printer just for the artists, which will give us better quality than this one which seems a basic office printer.
We're also printing on basic office paper - what type paper would you recommend for graphics to look clean and sharp?
Criteria are:
1 - higher resolution - up to 1200dpi
2 - color preferred but not necessary
3 - wysiwyg so it will match what we're doing on screen (95% of our work is grayscale graphics)
4 - not so costly the company will refuse to purchase for us (initial cost and supplies)
Thanks to all who reply - also like to hear what to stay away from.

To Jacob's advice, I would add...
1. If you have the choice between genuine Adobe PostScript and a third-party emulation, go for the former. Unfortunately, this will cost you more money.
2. Unless you are dealing only with small-sized printed pieces -- that is to say, smaller than letter-size -- you really need to consider a large-format (e.g., tabloid size) laser. If your laser maxes out at letter-size (or legal-size) and your printed piece trims to letter-size, you'll need to reduce output to print out things like spreads, bleeds, printer's marks, etc. And if you can't proof at 100 percent (i.e., actual size), that's a huge disadvantage. Yes, you could print things out in sections and tape them together, but that will get old fast. Unfortunately, a tabloid-size PostScript laser will really set you back some bucks... not to mention some serious desktop real estate.
If you are budget-constrained, you should probably not rule out inkjet options.

New system build specs -- need advice

Hi guys,
I posted this on Tom's Hardward and got the go ahead to order parts but I wanted to double check.
I am a non-computer person building a computer to edit a 70 minute documentary movie. I've been doing some research and here is my parts list. I'm looking to order this in a week because I need to get going on this project. I plan on using Adobe Premier CS 6. I looked at a few different websites for this project and came up with the following. If I've made a mistake, please just tell me what to replace it with (again, this is totally new territory and I'm going on just trusting folks who know this stuff.) Here is the list.
I'm not running games or lots of effects. I have a monitor.
Wish List:
1     Corsair Force Series GT CSSD-F120GBGT-BK 2.5     Corsair Force Series GT CSSD-F120GBGT-BK 2.5" 120GB SATA III Internal Solid State Drive (SSD)
2     HGST Deskstar 7K1000.C 0F10383 1TB 7200 RPM 32MB Cache SATA 3.0Gb/s 3.5     HGST Deskstar 7K1000.C 0F10383 1TB 7200 RPM 32MB Cache SATA 3.0Gb/s 3.5" Internal Hard Drive -- currently out of stock, should I just buy another brand?
1     ASRock X79 Extreme6 LGA 2011 Intel X79 SATA 6Gb/s USB 3.0 ATX Intel Motherboard     ASRock X79 Extreme6 LGA 2011 Intel X79 SATA 6Gb/s USB 3.0 ATX Intel Motherboard
1     PNY VCGGTX7803XPB GeForce GTX 780 3GB 384-bit GDDR5 PCI Express 3.0 x16 SLI Support Video Card     PNY VCGGTX7803XPB GeForce GTX 780 3GB 384-bit GDDR5 PCI Express 3.0 x16 SLI Support Video Card - IS THIS too much. Please recommend if I can save money.
1     Seasonic SS-760XP2 ATX 12V/EPS 12V, 760W, 80 PLUS PLATINUM Full Modular certified Active PFC Power Supply New 4th Gen CPU Certified Haswell Ready     Seasonic SS-760XP2 ATX 12V/EPS 12V, 760W, 80 PLUS PLATINUM Full Modular certified Active PFC Power Supply New 4th Gen CPU Certified Haswell Ready
1     Intel Core i7-3930K Sandy Bridge-E 3.2GHz (3.8GHz Turbo) LGA 2011 130W Six-Core Desktop Processor BX80619i73930K     Intel Core i7-3930K Sandy Bridge-E 3.2GHz (3.8GHz Turbo) LGA 2011 130W Six-Core Desktop Processor BX80619i73930K
2     G.SKILL Ripjaws Z Series 16GB (4 x 4GB) 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM DDR3 2133 (PC3 17000) Desktop Memory Model F3-17000CL11Q-16GBZL     G.SKILL Ripjaws Z Series 16GB (4 x 4GB) 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM DDR3 2133 (PC3 17000) Desktop Memory Model F3-17000CL11Q-16GBZL
4     Seagate Barracuda ST2000DM001 2TB 7200 RPM 64MB Cache SATA 6.0Gb/s 3.5     Seagate Barracuda ST2000DM001 2TB 7200 RPM 64MB Cache SATA 6.0Gb/s 3.5" Internal Hard Drive
1     CORSAIR Hydro Series H100i Water Cooler     CORSAIR Hydro Series H100i Water Cooler
2     Noctua NF-F12 PWM 120mm Case Fan     Noctua NF-F12 PWM 120mm Case Fan
1 NZXT Phantom PHAN-001WT White Steel / Plastic Enthusiast ATX Full Tower Computer Case
1 Rosewill RTK-002 Anti-Static Wrist Strap     Rosewill RTK-002 Anti-Static Wrist Strap
I'm at $2,900 and still need an optical drive.
I also need windows and adobe.
A friend said get Tape Memory? But I have not idea how that works.
Thanks,
Doug

Here Build a Desktop Video Editing PC
-http://ppbm7.com/index.php/tweakers-page/83-balanced-systems
-3 price level ideas in http://www.pacifier.com/~jtsmith/ADOBE.HTM
-what PC to build http://forums.adobe.com/thread/947698
-2 how to build videos http://forums.adobe.com/thread/1104182
-another video http://forums.adobe.com/thread/1145366
-another video http://forums.adobe.com/thread/1132363
-planning & Building http://ppbm7.com/index.php/intro-part-1
-memory for LGA2011 http://forums.adobe.com/thread/1098759
-an Adobe FAQ http://forums.adobe.com/thread/878520
-http://www.shawnlam.ca/2012/premiere-pro-cs6-video-editing-computer-build/
-http://www.videoguys.com/Guide/E/Videoguys+DIY9+Its+Time+for+Sandy+Bridge+E/0xe9b142f408a2 b03ab88144a434e88de7.aspx
-several more links http://forums.adobe.com/thread/815798
-build tuning http://ppbm7.com/index.php/final-results
-http://ppbm7.com/index.php/tweakers-page

I need a new Macbook but -.I need advice regarding the new fixed configurations

I have a MacBook from 2007 and it probably needs replacing as I'm starting to see problems, little hints that any day it might completely stop working. I was ready to buy a new computer but after reading about the new MacBook Pros, it seems like Apple has forgotten its roots.
Let's say you get 8 GB of RAM which is probably enough for my purposes( but I'm still not sure, I might get 16 though its very expensive) and there is a problem with the RAM. Do you really have to replace the entire logic board and what are we talking in terms of parts and labor assuming you are out of warranty? This happened to my current Macbook and it was very cheap because I was able to snap new chips in but everything is soldered on the new Macbooks and I don't want to buy a computer that I might be throwing away in 2 years.
The same questrion applies in regard to the CPU. If it fails, is this going to be a huge repair bill?
Another major concern regards complaints from dissapointed customers who are unhappy with the glare of the screen. As I have eye problems, this could be a big issue for me.
Finally, but less of a problem, Its disappointing that you need to purchase an ethernet adaptor and have to buy an external CD/DVD drive. People look at me like I'm crazy when I talk about CD drives, but I listen to a lot of classical music which you cannot get on the net, and, even if you can, it is of low quality. You have to go to a store like Amoeba to find the CD. Not a huge deal, but a bit annoying and these little things add up.
I'm starting to think I may have to take a look at PC's, something, I never thought I'd do again.

I'd recommend 8 GB RAM, based upon all the information available today it should be sufficient for a very long time. OS X "Mavericks" uses system resources extremely efficiently and the MBP's flash memory goes a long way toward masking a paucity of RAM. Apple claimed that Mavericks' new memory compression algorithm results in an effective increase of 50% more memory than what is actually installed, a claim that I have empirically determined to be accurate, perhaps a bit conservative. In other words 8 GB memory will perform as if 12 GB were actually installed, if not for OS X's memory compression algorithm. Even 4 GB is sufficient for Mavericks whereas it was barely adequate for Mountain Lion.
If you were to ask an iPad or iPhone owner how much memory it has, and if they actually understood what you were asking, most would not know, or care. Nor should they. Such is the future of the Mac product line.
The same questrion applies in regard to the CPU. If it fails, is this going to be a huge repair bill?
It certainly will. Fortunately I have never heard of a single case in which a Mac's CPU has failed.
Another major concern regards complaints from dissapointed customers who are unhappy with the glare of the screen.
All you can do is try it for yourself. Matte screens have disadvantages too. If you don't like your MBP, return it for a full refund, no questions asked. You have 14 days to decide.
Classical music used to been a challenge to find on iTunes, but Apple has been getting better. You can still buy an external CD drive to import your music; they're not terribly expensive.
Any computer design is a study in compromises and an optical drive simply isn't worth the tradeoffs. People howled about Apple's decision to eliminate floppy disk drives too, even as they were ridiculed for originally promoting the 3 1/2" floppy disk format. What Apple creates, Apple destroys, lest someone else do it for them.
In any event optical discs are antiquated and obsolete, so get used to the idea.
I'm starting to think I may have to take a look at PC's, something, I never thought I'd do again.
Choice is good. Knock yourself out.

New to Mac computers-need advice about hardware

I purchased a Mac computer on eBay knowing that the mainboard needed to be replaced. I purchased it for the software on the hard drive. I need to replace the mainboard and do not know anything aside from that the bottom is white, round, and has a silver apple on it. I need to purchase a mainboard for the older computer, and don't know what to ask or search for and I would like to know who I could purchase a mainboard from. Any advice would be appreciated. The serial number for the computer is QP30837HNHX and was initially purchased from Apple in Feb. 2003. I've noticed that these computers have models named after large cats, i.e. Jaguar, Tiger, etc. I don't know what mine is, other than it has an 80G HD, 1Ghz G4. Any advice would be appreciated.

Hello! Here is a rundown of the computer.
Serial number: QP30837HNHX
Name: iMac G4 (Early 2003)
Model: M6498 iMac G4 1.0GHz
Bus speed: 133MHz
Screen size: 17 inch
Factory: QP (USA)
And also look HERE for additional info concerning iMacs like yours.
You may find a logic board HERE.
Tom

New User KIN twom needs help!

Hi guys, I recently purchased a Kin TWOM because i wanted a decent phone without having to pay for data plan. I have some questions that I need help answering/confirming because I searched online and it'll be nice to have all my answers here.
1. WIFI
Q: I understand that the kin two can go on wifi FOR FREE as long as you turn the 3G network off.
Would turing your phone to airplane mode be good enough to NOT use the 3G at all or do I need to go online and do a data block on the phone?
Would turning the data block off online, completely turn off the 3G network, so i guess incase of emergency, no use of 3G?
I can still receive text without 3G (text is not part of data- i think?)?
2. Games
Are there any games you can download from computer to the phone? I saw that someone posted mytouchgames.com as a site inwhich you can lay games on it or something. I want to play games and see if can imput by comp.
3. ZUNE
I never had a zune before and have no idea how it works. I believe this is free. I saw that all you need is to download a program and I can start putting my music from my computer to the phone and just play it like a mp3.
Can you use mp3 from the computer, put into zune and use it as a ringtone?
Ringtone on phonezoo..sending it to the phone would not cost anything? But i'm not sure where to save it to because i don't think i want it to be permenant. Can I send it to the zune program
Some people also mentioned sending by email..i don't really understand it. Are we sending it as an attachment? or a link??
4. Bluetooth
Can you transfer music/pictures/ect. from phone to phone via bluetooth? I would probably like to send pictures to my sister when I see her WITHOUT using text. If not, is the only way is to transfer pictures from phone to computer and post it online?
5. MISC
I heard that there was an issue regarding the phone being on silent and still ring, can someone clarify? like if its on vibrate, the alarm would still go off, but if people called, it'll be on vibrate?
THANK YOU for your time in answering these questions.

icekitsune714 wrote:
Hi guys, I recently purchased a Kin TWOM because i wanted a decent phone without having to pay for data plan. I have some questions that I need help answering/confirming because I searched online and it'll be nice to have all my answers here. Hi and welcome to the boards!
1. WIFI
Q: I understand that the kin two can go on wifi FOR FREE as long as you turn the 3G network off.
Would turing your phone to airplane mode be good enough to NOT use the 3G at all or do I need to go online and do a data block on the phone? Correct, wireless providers do not charge for Wi-Fi use. However, it's very difficult to tell on the Kin whether you're using Wi-Fi or 3G, so I do recommend a data block. As you stated, you can also put the phone in airplane mode, but that does shut off the radio, so you will not receive any calls or texts when you do this.
Would turning the data block off online, completely turn off the 3G network, so i guess incase of emergency, no use of 3G? Correct, you would have to go online to My Verizon or call customer service to enable data. If you think you'll occasionally use it while out, maybe you want the $10 data plan ... $1.99/MB adds up fast!
I can still receive text without 3G (text is not part of data- i think?)? Yes, you will still receive texts. You can even receive MMS (pic and vid messages), but the customer service rep has to set this up correctly on your account. Be very careful that the rep doesn't remove the data block to allow MMS -- you will think you're using Wi-Fi and the charges will really add up.
2. Games
Are there any games you can download from computer to the phone? I saw that someone posted mytouchgames.com as a site inwhich you can lay games on it or something. I want to play games and see if can imput by comp. No experience with this, sorry.
3. ZUNE
I never had a zune before and have no idea how it works. I believe this is free. I saw that all you need is to download a program and I can start putting my music from my computer to the phone and just play it like a mp3. Zune is great. It's free to use (unless you decide to purchase the Zune Pass, which is a music subscription for $15/month, plus you can keep 10 songs every month for your own collection). When Zune installs, there's a setting that syncs all the music and pics already on your computer. So when I installed Zune, all my music from Windows Media Player was there. You simply drag and drop to put on your Kin. You can also subscribe to podcasts through Zune. Plus the Kin does have an FM radio, which sounds good and shows current songs playing if the info is available.
Can you use mp3 from the computer, put into zune and use it as a ringtone? I don't think this worked for Kin users.
Ringtone on phonezoo..sending it to the phone would not cost anything? But i'm not sure where to save it to because i don't think i want it to be permenant. Can I send it to the zune program
Some people also mentioned sending by email..i don't really understand it. Are we sending it as an attachment? or a link??
4. Bluetooth
Can you transfer music/pictures/ect. from phone to phone via bluetooth? I would probably like to send pictures to my sister when I see her WITHOUT using text. If not, is the only way is to transfer pictures from phone to computer and post it online? I read that the Kin Bluetooth only works for headsets, not file transfer, but I'm not certain.
5. MISC
I heard that there was an issue regarding the phone being on silent and still ring, can someone clarify? like if its on vibrate, the alarm would still go off, but if people called, it'll be on vibrate? This is because the ringer switch does not lock. So if your phone is in your pocket, you can bump the switch and put it in another mode. So you think it'll ring and it's on silent, for example.
THANK YOU for your time in answering these questions.

Any MSI K8N NEO Platinum Edition S754 nForce3 users?? Need advice..

Hi, thinking of building a budget system around a S739 Clawhammer 3700 with an
MSI K8N NEO Platinum Edition S754 nForce3 board. But have a few concerns..
- Will this board run on this chip or will it need updated BIOS to do so?
- Will it work with crucial 3200DDR memory.CL=3 • UNBUFFERED • NON-ECC • DDR400 • 2.6V • 64Meg x 64 ?
- Can it take an extra (3rd) 512 stick of this ram?
Thanks.

I have ran the Neo s754 model with 2 * crucial CT6464Z40B 512MB cas 3 modules and never had one single problem with the combination
of A64 GC version , mobo and RAM .
Three modules is tough on the single channel memory controller though , as it would have to deal with 6 banks
and you probably see the ram max speed as DDR333 and 2T commandrate is what it can cope with.

My one user account will not let me open anything on it, so I started a new user account which works. Is there anyway I can get my bookmarks onto the new user account without needing to be ON the new user account?

When I try to open up any files or any application on the other account it says the file not found

You can change a password for an Apple ID. However, now whoever finds the iPod will know his email address and I assume that the email address is his Apple ID.
Apple ID: Changing your password
According to the terms of the iTunes Store, you have to be 13 in order to have an Apple ID.

New PC-do I need to transfer Itunes library files (itl and xml files?)

Hi gang,
I followed the Itunes tutorial for Windows and moved my Itunes music library to a EHD as it was filling up my laptop. I left the itl and xml library files on the laptop hard drive as instructed.
However, this laptop is a work PC and if I change jobs I will need to download a new version of Itunes to the new PC. I know how to import the files from the EHD but my question is the following:
1. Do I need to back up the itl and xml library files to the EHD before I give back the work PC? It seems likely since they contain info about the playlists.
2. Once I download Itunes on the new PC would I just copy the library files onto the hard drive or can they remain on the EHD?
It sounds like (from reading some info from Chris CA) that I need to make a copy of the Itunes folder (which includes the itl and xml files) from the laptop hard drive and put it on the EHD inside the EHD Itunes folder. Then with the new PC load a new version of Itunes and hold the shift key when launching. Then I would select the library from the EHD.
Is that correct?
Thanks!
Any help would be appreciated as I cannot find anything on this in Itunes help or the forum.

Assuming you start with a standard configuration which is:
The iTunes folder in My music on your c: drive and all your music in the iTunes Music folder in the iTunes folder on the c: drive.
Starting from there, with iTunes closed, you copy the iTunes folder to an external drive, this also copies the music in the iTunes Muisc folder.
To move to a new PC, you install iTunes, then you drag your new iTunes folder to the desktop, then you replace it by copying the iTunes folder from the external drive.
With this set up you can also run entirely on the EHD if you want to. Just start iTunes with the shift key held down, navigate to the iTunes folder on the external drive an choose iTunes Library.itl. This could be useful if you want to dake the EHD to work.
If you are not starting from the default position I described, some adjustments would have to be made, but it would need an exact descripition of how your folders are set up at the moment.

New user of G4 - need advice on selection of printer, DV and digital camera

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