New Users! Need best settings for Import

I have just installed FCE 4. I have footage on MiniDV (1080i) as well as Canon 5D Mk 2 footage at 1080p (30fps). I want to edit these together. What settings are recommended for import.

There is no good solution for your media. You need to set HDV 1080i60 to capture the HDV media. That media is 1440x1080 interlaced. You need to convert the Canon EOS material as it uses H.264 which is not a production codec, but one designed for delivery. You can use MPEG Streamclip to convert it to QuickTime using the Apple Intermediate Codec.
Here's your next problem you can convert it to 1440x1080 at 29.97fps, in which case it will match the HDV material and not need to be rendered in FCE. Or you can convert it to it's original format 1920x1080 at 29.97fps, but then you'll have to render in the FCE sequence. In either case the audio should be converted as uncompressed stereo 48K. Never heard of 42K. No idea why of earth Canon decided to to do that.
In FCE you can set your sequence item properties to have no field dominance. This will prevent interlacing your material that's not interlaced. The interlaced material of course will remain as it is.

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(I assume I would put the old track in the recycle bin and then import the new track.

You might find this article useful: iTunes Encoding Strategies

Best settings for import

i asked a question here http://discussions.apple.com/thread.jspa?threadID=464588&tstart=0 regarding different sound qualities. i'm also wondering if it is partially due to the settings i have for importing songs. i import using MP3 at 192 kbps. should i try something else? the reason i selected this is because i used a couple programs to put my cd collection on a hard drive and thus all are stored as mp3's on my computer. what are the best options to get the best sound?
TIA!

so if i wanted to import using say AIFF, for example, and all my files are on my PC already as mp3 files, should i not import using the files on my PC then and import directly from the CD? because if i import the mp3's that are on my system into iTunes using the AIFF settings, isn't that sort of useless if the files have been "downgraded" already by storing them as mp3's on my system? or can i just import the mp3's using the AIFF settings and it will "improve" the quality over mp3's?
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Best settings for importing HD movies to ATV for video gallery

hello -
i work for a gallery, and we have a video artist who will be showing HD videos here for 2-3 months. we bought 2 AppleTVs to use to show the movies, and i'm trying to figure out the best way to convert the material and get the files on there.
using the "Create Apple TV version" doesn't preserve the HD quality of the originals, which i know aren't compatible natively. i was hoping there is a place in the settings for the ATV where i could at least review the video codec in use when converting in iTunes, but there doesn't seem to be a place for it. am i blind or is there no choice in the matter?
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bbbb

hello -
i work for a gallery, and we have a video artist who will be showing HD videos here for 2-3 months. we bought 2 AppleTVs to use to show the movies, and i'm trying to figure out the best way to convert the material and get the files on there.
using the "Create Apple TV version" doesn't preserve the HD quality of the originals, which i know aren't compatible natively. i was hoping there is a place in the settings for the ATV where i could at least review the video codec in use when converting in iTunes, but there doesn't seem to be a place for it. am i blind or is there no choice in the matter?
i've tried converting in Quicktime Pro using the settings that are on the ATV specs page, and i was successful once (in a short excerpt without much video movement) but no longer (using an excerpt that has more color, movement, etc). the bit rate is too high i'm guessing, tho i've tried to limit it to 5000 k/sec. it ends up coming out 18m / sec for some reason......
for some reason i can't get handbrake to open the file.
any thoughts? we can't afford to buy new computers to stream the original off of, so we're hoping the ATV can show the movies in the highest def possible. she sent them in 720p50 format, so i had to buy a decoder plugin to view them (DVCPro HD from Calibrated Software).
thanks in advance
bbbb

Best settings for importing

If I am importing stills already in Aperture, or music already in Itunes, or video which was already imported into Aperture, or just resides on my hard drive, is it necessary to copy the files to Final Cut so that I end up with double files on my hard drive?
What does "Import folders as keyword collections" do for me?
Am I right in assuming that creating optomized and proxy media will make Final Cut run smoother? These are my settings:

That makes sense because the word, "proxy" means just that, a referenced thing instead of the real thing, but it's not what that article I found seems to say:
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The quality of the proxy media should be irrelevent if it's not actually used for the final output. It sounds to me that using Proxy makes the most sense if the outputted material is still created from the original source. That would be the best combo of system efficiency whilst maintaining the best quality, right?
I just wonder why anyone would do it another way if this is the case.

Need advise on best settings for FCP 7!

I am looking for some advice on the best settings for FCP 7 when I am syncing sound using pluraleyes, exporting into quicktime as one file and then importing that new file into FCP 7 for editing. I have noticed that sometimes my Quicktime files are very large (20 gb) and sometimes they are much smaller (130 MB), but I never changed the settings.
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I haven't edited in almost ten years so I am desperate need of some guidance!
Final Cut Pro 7, Mac OS X (10.6.8)

Hi Shane Ross,
Thanks for your help. So, I already synced all of my interviews in FCP 7 (using pluraleyes) before I changed the video to ProRess 422. Can I just go into FCP (in the same project) and compress the video footage, import the new video files and throw it into the timeline? Or will this cause issues? I tried this as a test and it seems to be okay but I just want to check that there aren't any issues that I am not considering.
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What are the best settings for my photos in order to get the best quality book?
Thanks
Zasa

zasa:
Use the largest file, pixel wise, that you can. The books are printed at 300 dpi so the largest size the better to insure you'll get as close to that dpi for the largest page picture possible.
Do you Twango?
TIP: For insurance against the iPhoto database corruption that many users have experienced I recommend making a backup copy of the Library6.iPhoto database file and keep it current. If problems crop up where iPhoto suddenly can't see any photos or thinks there are no photos in the library, replacing the working Library6.iPhoto file with the backup will often get the library back. By keeping it current I mean backup after each import and/or any serious editing or work on books, slideshows, calendars, cards, etc. That insures that if a problem pops up and you do need to replace the database file, you'll retain all those efforts. It doesn't take long to make the backup and it's good insurance.
I've written an Automator workflow application (requires Tiger), iPhoto dB File Backup, that will copy the selected Library6.iPhoto file from your iPhoto Library folder to the Pictures folder, replacing any previous version of it. You can download it at Toad's Cellar. Be sure to read the Read Me pdf file.

Best Settings for N Only Network.

I am trying to create an N only network with an AirPort Extreme 802.11n router. What are the best settings to use? Here is what I currently have. Also, just bought a previous generation MacBook Pro (one right before the new glass screen ones, do I need to use the N enabler?).
802.11n only (5 ghz)
Channel: Automatic
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Use wide channels is selected.
Thank you.

I am trying to create an N only network with an AirPort Extreme 802.11n router. What are the best settings to use?
Are you looking for the best settings for speed or overall speed and security?
For speed:
o 802.11n only (5 GHz)
o Wide-channel enabled
o Channel: <Will depend if there are other 5 GHz Wi-Fis or interference nearby. In that case, you can choose a different channel by holding down the Option key before making the selection in the AirPort Utility.>
o Security: None
o Multicast Rate: This determines the minimum bandwidth that a device must achieve in order to connect to the router. To eliminate slower devices, use the highest value possible.
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Hi:
Ussually I have to rebuild in AI the company logo (I use to work for industries) to include in FCP edit.
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- Select your work (i.e. the final logo) in the AI canvas and copy it.
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- The better ir deciding the size NOW in Photoshop, or create sveral version in different sizes. Yuo'll get better quality id you make the resizings in Photoshop rather that doing a scale in FCP timeline.
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Alberto

Which are the best settings for exporting comps before edditing in Premiere Pro

Hello everyone!
As the title says, which are the best settings for exporting comps from AE to Pr.Pro and then edit them?
Let me explain: I have two comps in AE (intro and outro) and want to export them in Pr.Pro for edditing along with a fottage i shot.
When i render them the size of the files are huge (30 sec= 7GB).
Which is the best method (and settings) i can export the intro and outro to a 'normal' file size and then put them in Pr.Pro without loosing any quality??
[Comp settings: HDTV 1080 29.97 (1920x1080)]
AE and Premiere Pro both CS4

If you're rendering and exporting an intermediate video file to go from After Effects to any other piece of post-production software (such as Premiere Pro), you want to make sure that you're not losing any quality.
Most compression methods, which make movies smaller, also lose some of the image data---i.e., quality. There are a few compression methods that don't lose any image data; these are "lossless" codecs. These lossless codecs do decrease the size of a video file, but they're nowhere near as effective at decreasing size as the lossy codecs are. But file size isn't important when you're doing post-production work. Big files are a fact of life in post-production.
Examples of lossless codecs include the PNG codec and the Animation codec at the highest quality settings, both of which can be used in a QuickTime (.mov) container. I prefer the PNG codec; it's more efficient for photorealistic images, whereas Animation is more efficient for things like cartoons. There are lots of other lossless and nearly lossless codecs. A lot of people that do video editing like the Lagarith codec, but that is something that you'd have to go and get; it's not part of a standard CS5 or QuickTime installation.
See these FAQ entries for information about compression and why file sizes are big for losslessly encoded files:
"FAQ: Why is my output file huge...?"
"FAQ: What is the best format for rendering and exporting from After Effects?"
By the way, keep in mind that you don't always need to render and export an intermediate movie to go from After Effects to Premiere Pro. There are other ways to move data back and forth between these applications, including Dynamic Link. Which is best depends on the specific circumstance. See "Working with Premiere Pro and After Effects".

Best settings for film based PAL to MPEG2?

There's a fair amount of useful information online regarding the best settings for film based NTSC footage export etc but I'm unable to find anything regarding the best Compressor settings for the export of MPEG2 from PAL video from a 25 frames per second film sourced master.
Can anybody help?

Okay, so after reading heaps of stuff on interlacing and progressive, my head is hurting. Since my 1080i50 Pal footage captures into Final cut interlaced and setting field dominance to NONE doesn't do much, I realise I need to de-interlace in an another application. Ken Stone has a great example of what to do in compressor though I dont have the current version (3) and am not sure how to reinterpret this for Compressor 2. I had a go without much luck. I am in the process of trying to use MPEG Streamclip to deinterlace and trying getting the right settings. Will see how that goes. I also have tried using JES deinterlacer but also wasnt sure about settings etc with this application either.
Which is the best to use and what settings should I set. I wish to use my footage for watching on our macs primarily and also from our mac server which is hooked up to our hdtv. I can then convert to other formats for iphones and web etc. But my main problem is this interlacing issue. I have a nice new HDV camera but it certainly isnt looking too much better atm than my old dv footage.
PLEASE help!

Best settings for highest quality results, Blu-Ray vs DVD

I am shooting AVCHD 1080p 60fps with a JVC GC-PX100, using a Windows 7, i7-2600 3.40Ghz., 8Gb.RAM, 1 TB HDD with PE11 and a Pioneer Blu-Ray writer drive.
I'm looking to find the best settings for replay on a 55" HDTV. I have tested both BD and DVD without seeing very much difference between the two as far as video quality is concerned,
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Rikko
Thanks for the reply.
Referring back to your post 4.
Additional info: When I published my test video for DVD I chose “Computer” on the Publish+Share drop-down list, then chose MPEG, Presets: HDTV 1080p 29.97 High Quality.
Saved and burned to DVD. I also did the same choosing AVCHD Presets: MP4 – H264 1920x1080p 30. Saved and burned to DVD
Let us clarify. When the end result is "...burned to DVD" in either case, are saying that you take your saved file to DVD-VIDEO on DVD disc or AVCHD on DVD disc, using another Premiere Elements 11 project on Windows 7 64 bit.
My post numbered 1, contained the step by step for taking your 1080p60 Timeline directly to DVD-VIDEO on DVD disc or Blu-ray disc format on Blu-ray disc.
If you are going to introduce intermediates in your workflow (Timeline content saved to file and then burn to disc), then I would offer the following scheme
a. 1080p60 project preset (project 1)
b. 1080p60 Timeline saved to file via
Publish+Share
Computer
AVCHD
with presets = MP4 - H.264 1920 x 1080p30 (and then under the Advanced Button/Video Tab, customize the export settings for 1080p60 instead of 1080p30)
c. Import that back into Premiere Elements 1080p60 project (project 2) and burn to disc DVD-VIDEO on DVD disc, AVCHD on DVD disc, or Blu-ray disc format on Blu-ray disc..
This is another alternative interpretation to your saved and burned to DVD.....in one project, you are doing two different exports...one to a file saved to the hard drive and after than the burn to disc (be it DVD-VIDEO on DVD disc, AVCHD format on DVD disc, or Blu-ray disc format on Blu-ray disc). If this is the case, there is no "intermediate".
There used to be the discussion about HDV to DVD-VIDEO format on DVD disc - whether HDV file should be imported into the project as source or whether the user should downsize the HDV to DV widescreen in the camera before import into a DV Widescreen Premiere Elements project. As we getting into this type of question with your 1080p60 to DV widescreen?
Please review and consider. And, then please let me know if any of the above addresses your considerations.
Thanks.
ATR

Best settings for alpha 58

Hey I am new user to DSLR. I have alpha 58 with 18-55 lense, Can someone please tell me what are the best settings for taking good outdoor pics

I, on the other hand, would recommend that you start with the Mode Dial on P (Program Auto.) While the SCN (Scene Selection) mode has a lot to offer when you find yourself in extraordinary circumstances, you won't learn much by letting the camera do all the decision making for you. Program Auto lets the camera do most of the heavy lifting, but still allows you to use some of the more creative options, like Exposure Compensation, D-Range Optimizer, Creative Style, etc., and it allows you to adjust the exposure settings via the Control Dial, so you can adjust the shutter speed and aperture to your taste while still getting a properly exposed image. I would also caution you against using Spot metering. Often, you'll find that the spot will fall on someone's white shirt, or dark sweater, or black car, all of which will cause the camera to set the exposure for that small area that is not representative of the entire scene. Instead, I would suggest that you use Center Weighted metering so that the portion of the scene you're primarily interested in is used to select the exposure settings. What should you take away from these two obviously contradictory recommendations? There is no "Best" way to do this. What matters is what's best for you, and the way you want to use the tools available to you in your A58. Go out and take LOTS of photos (It's not like you have to pay for developing, like in the bad old, pre-digital days.) and see what works for you.

What are the best settings for ripping cd's in the AAC format?

I have researched and found out that the AAC format rules over the MP3 format as fas as sound quality goes with lossy formats. Example: AAC at 128 is better than MP3 at 160 as so forth. My questions are: What are the best settings for ripping cd's in the AAC format? Will I be able to burn cd mixes with the tracks I import into itunes after importing using the AAC format? Does the AAC format have VBR like the MP3 format? Is there other ripping software such as dbPoweramp and Exact Audio Copy that does a better job ripping cd's in the AAC format? Please help!

mysteryroach wrote:
My questions are: What are the best settings for ripping cd's in the AAC format?
It is a matter of opinion, but I suggest 256 kb/s, CBR, and leave all other settings on automatic.
Will I be able to burn cd mixes with the tracks I import into itunes after importing using the AAC format?
Yes. Just put them in a playlist and burn.
Does the AAC format have VBR like the MP3 format?
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Is there other ripping software such as dbPoweramp and Exact Audio Copy that does a better job ripping cd's in the AAC format?
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Best settings for desktop i7?

I installed After Effects CC 2014 on a computer with i74790k, Radeon 6850 and 8 GB of RAM.
The program runs smoothly but it makes Windows 8.1 a bit unresponsive, for example opening and closing folders take longer, also browsing files, opening the start menu, etc.
What are the best settings for decent editing and desktop stability?

Check your memory and multiprocessing settings. The RAM reserved for other applications probably needs to be higher.
lonnrot wrote:
Bare minimun according to whom?
Minimun requirements according to Adobe:
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New Users! Need best settings for Import

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