Newbie here: best sizing option while exporting for print?

What is an ideal/standard option for exporting and sizing a photo for print when you don't know if they will print 4x6, 5x7 or 8x10? Is there a good option that will consider anything? Bottom line: best sizing option while exporting? Thanks

If you don't know the size that someone will print at, then you don't resize at all. Leave the Resize to Fit box unchecked in the Image Sizing portion of the Export dialog box Let the person doing the printing do the resizing (if necessary)

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Export for print

What should the DPI be set for when you export for print? (The best quality) What should the settings for gamma, and the color profile be also? Not sure what gamma and color profile is.

The DPI setting during export doesn't affect the quality of the print. It is only used by some software to determine what size the image is printed at. For example, a 1500 x 1500 pixel size image exported at 300 DPI would print as a 5" x 5" size if your printing software was told to print actual size. If you exported that same image at 150 DPI, it would want to print at 10" x 10". Your printing software can easily override these settings anyway so the DPI setting doesn't do much.
Most printers and printing services use the sRGB profile so that is the setting to use unless you specifically know your printer will use something else.
The gamma setting can be used to change the brightness of the image. I would leave it as the default unless your prints are coming out too dark or light.

Getting Error While Going For Print Preview in ALV Report

Hi,
We doveloped a new report based on client requirment while going for print preview all the fields are shufling.Can you please guide me I am unable to solve this problem.
Regards
Suresh

Do you use a field for coloring a column or cell?
If the coding is not too large it could be helpfull to post the coding as well.
Regards,
John.

Exporting for Print

Hello all...When prepping an image export for print, the following values are asked for by my print company. Not sure about these two:
1. What resolution do I export at? How do I know the maximum I have available on that image with enlarging?
2. LR does not allow me to select a bit depth when I export. They require 8bit how can we verify this?
TIA,
Amelia

1. If by resolution you mean pixels per inch, there is no maximum. Normally printers require 240 or 300 ppi. If you want a picture a certain size (say 4x6), you need to crop the image to that size and then export, and in the Export dialog you can set the pixels per inch to give you 4x6.
2. If you export as a .jpg, then it has to be 8-bit. All .jpg photos are 8-bit.

What's the best way to export for print?

I usually upload images to my local photoprinting shop. What's the best way to do that with Lightroom? Since lightroom does the final sharpening in the print module, how do I get that into the exported file since there is no export function in the print module? Also, how do I get the proper dpi and sizing info into the photo for the print shop? Thanks.

There is no good way to prepare images for printing from a file from a commercial printer by using Lightroom alone. You need to do an export of the image without any resizing or color space conversion, and then use some other program of your choice to 'finish' the file.
It's just plain missing functionality... Lightroom assumes that you will be printing photos yourself and it is missing a whole lot of stuff in order to support external printing, including:
a) Resize to exact pixel dimensions. Many labs require an exact pixel count for a given print size, so for example for an 8x10 they need a 2400 x 3000 pixel image. Can't be done in Lightroom.
b) Trim adjustment. If you are doing full bleed photos (no margin), you might need to provide about 0.05 inch of 'trim space' to compensate for image loss during printing. Can't be done in Lightroom.
c) Exporting to a specific printer profile. Can't be done.
d) Adding margins, text, etc. Many times my clients want a 1/4 inch margin in their photos to facilitate framing, or I put a dim watermark type text in the bottom corner. Can't be done.
My solution. Do most processing in Lightroom, do an export, and then do a second export via qImage on a PC. It does all of the above plus much more. It's just a matter of using the right tool for the job, and LIghtroom has no facilities at all for printing to a file.
I have been asking for "Print to File" ever since I was under NDA during the betas.

What are best output options in DVDSP for playback on VGA Computer Screen?

I understand that DVDs were designed to be viewed on TV sets - not computer monitors with much higher resolution than a TV set.
However .... I'm curious what the best output options are within DVDSP3 for playback on a standard 19" VGA computer screen 1024x768 and not necessarily on a TV screen. Any ideas?
Will DVDSP3 address playback on a standard VGA computer screen any better than iDVD6? .... or are they both very much the same?
Here's my objective:
MiniDV>FCP HD >DVD SP3>DVD-R / Playback on VGA 19" Monitor only (no TV involved).
or...
MiniDV>iMovie6>iDVD6>DVD-R / Playback on VGA 19" Monitor only.
TIA
SDMacuser

George - I'm not a web designer, so I'm probably not the best person to respond but here goes anyway (FWIW):
(anywhere from 10sec to 2min) for website visitors to play (but not download). There can be multiple audios per web page.
No problem. QuickTime. X-platform and you can set whether it's downloadable or not - but that's really moot, as anything on the web can be captured, especially with the 'analog loophole' such as WireTap or Audio Hi Jack.
I need a combination of buttons from very simple round (or square 20x20 pix) to a bar style with volume control, both with the option to change the color to fit my site.
Buttons are your business - nothing to do with playback functionality. They are usually just a link to a file - your site should be set up to play anything, by anything, that's clicked on… Flash, QT whatever
a player that runs from my site and not somebody else's.
So you're hosting? I'd hate to go down that path… what if your site takes off? What if it goes down?You'd never handle the bandwidth. IMO better to buy inexpensive (but competent) hosting for $10 or so per month and avoid the headaches, and expand the hosting service as and when required.
See here for example:
http://soundpropaganda.com/blog/loudness.html
I have QT files, not downloadable (well, supposedly) from text links (check the green "Here's" links). The link method (graphic, text, whatever) is your design, not part of the playback system.

JDF Option while Exporting PDF

Hello All,
Under CS4 while exporting the PDF I want to enable the JDF option through plug-in. Has anyone tried doing the same. Where to look for in SDK. Would be great to get any help on this.
Thanks in Advance.
Regards
Farzana.

Dov Isaacs, Adobe Principal Scientist, and maybe the most knowledgeable person about this at Adobe wrote this in 2008:
"(1) InDesign 4 (=CS2) attempted to avoid CID encoding as much as reasonably possible, but there were no changes in this for InDesign 5.
(2) Use of the Distiller to produce PDF either from InDesign or any other application does NOT guarantee that you won’t get CID encoding. In fact, the Distiller uses CID encoding for optimization its conversion of PostScript to PDF.
(3) CID encoding has been an integral part of both the PostScript specification since 1996 (although it is supported by most PostScript Level 2 devices) and the PDF specification since PDF 1.3 (Acrobat 4 – 1999). In reality, if a print service provider (or a content creator) is using software that is NOT CID-encoding compatible, it is saying that software is being used that is also most likely incompatible with ICC color management, transparency, layers, and JPEG2000 image compression. This is a recipe for disaster for print customers. If your print service provider has problems with CID encoding, you should seriously question whether your print service provider is competent to handle your 21st century print needs with 20th century workflows and tools!"
For reference, see this InDesignSecrets.com posting in 2008:
http://indesignsecrets.com/cid-identity-h-fonts-are-back.php
Dov's opinion is written in the comments.

Exporting for printing in CS6

In CS6, things have changed quite a bit since CS4.
Which would be the best export setting for either digital or prepress printing. I know there is a [High Quality] setting and a [Press Quality] setting, but am not sure which one to use for digital or prepress.
Thx.
UPDATE: Maybe I mean offset instead of prepress???

For offseet you'll probably want to use the Press Quality Preset or some variation that converts to CMYK unless the printer tells you otherwise (many printers are now asking for PDF/X-4, whcih does no color conversion and preserves profiles so they can do the conversions on their end). Digital printing is bit less clear since there is a very large range of equipment out there. Best bet is to ask the printer.

Best way to light photos for printing

Hi All,
I previously posted on the forum on what to do if my prints are too dark. After getting helpful feedback from other forum users and confirming with the pringint company, I made sure that my monitor is calibrated to 90 lumens. Now am wondering the best way to lighten the photos for export (as I can't see the impact of gamma like in the print dialog.)
Backgound:
I setup my macbook pro to get the correct color calibration to print correctly. (I am exporting to sRGB colorspace to send to the online printing company). After calibrating my laptop lcd, it is apparent (by sending a few test photos) that the prints still come out a little too dark. As I am working on a laptop, I am limited to how much the screen vs exported photos can be adjusted. Therefore, I am looking on the best way to retouch the photos for exporting. Also note that I am using apple aperture.
Which is the best way to lighten up the photos (or a group of images that are taken under different lighting situations exposures, that would also keep my workflow streamlined?
1. Adjust the images on export using a gamma adjustment. (easiest to implement but since aperture only shows gamma adjustments on printing and not exporting, setting this correctly will be a guess.)
2. Use a curves adjustment to lighten the photo. (Might be the easiest to implement and see the results but need to create separate version for viewing on screen vs printing which isn't hard but adds a layer complexity).
3. Use some of the exposure/brightness/showdow recovery sliders. (Unsure of the best sliders to use and each photo needs separate adjustments. In addition, like 2 above, separate versions would be need to display on screen vs printing).
4. (Other ideas?).
I'd appreciate everyone's thoughts.
Thanks,
Jeff

Hi,
The situation has changed a little, our original photos are in RAW format and some of them are slightly over saturated in the higher tones.
I've read on other threads that it is a good idea to run the 'Enhance' tool on all photos before sending the iPhoto Book away.
Since iPhoto's 'Enhance' tools seems to do a lot of helpful things like sharpen, adjust the levels, etc it also seems to notch the contrast up and this would prove destructive for the lighter and darker tones not captured by the camera's dynamic range.
So as I've been advised it's best to use Apple's own tools before sending the iPhoto Book away, so I'm going to download the trial of Aperture.
Does anyone have any more recommendations on which monitor colour profile setting to use etc. I've also read that iPhoto prints best from JPEGS so the RAW will obviously need changed. Will Aperture automatically save to Profile name: Camera RGB Profile after I've done some editing there?
What would be the best way to prepare RAW images in aperture where some of them might need an Image Overlay in Photomatix then imported back to Aperture for printing an Apple/iPhoto style Book?
Many thanks

Help with cropping & sorting images prior to export for print

I have large project (wedding) within which I've sorted images into several folders (pre-wedding, church, family portraits, etc.) within which there are smart albums based on my ratings. I also have a generic "5 Star" album at the top level which contains the final images that have been adjusted and which the client has been provided with in order to choose from.
I now have a list of print requirements from the client (image name, size, and quantity).
I'm curious to know what the quickest way to sort and tag the images selected for print, particularly in view of there being a number of different size requests for the images which are to be printed.
Also - I'd value opinions (based on experience) on whether I should bother cropping to size for images that are 5x7 and 8x10 (the default ratio is 2x3 at the moment).
The bottom line is that I'm trying to minimise the amount of time I spend on print tagging and cropping prior to export, and post export sorting prior to sending off to the lab.
Thanks,
Paul

To answer your questions:
I am assuming that you want a new version of the crop size especially if you have an image/s that are required in multiple sizes like 8x10 and 5x7 the image would end up in each crop size album so you would have two versions one for each aspect ratio and doing the new version in the context of the album would make in the album pic so that the proper one will be at the top of the stack in each respective album.
Orientation does not matter with the stamp it will work fine - if you have an issue let me know.
with respect to the stamp - the stamp will position the crop relative to the one you lifted - if your lifted crop is in the middle then so will the stamped ones.
As for adjustment of the crop - just click on the crop tool, the click on the browser image and arrow through the images with the crop tool open - you can drag the crop around for each one with a minimum of keystrokes.
Try it and hit me back with issues. I do this all the time and it is about 3000x quicker than my old workflow 5 years ago. For that matter the power of albums, stacks, and stack picks for this kind of thing is fabulous, there are a million ways to use it to speed things up. Bonus is that you are not copying anything so it is virtually free from a resource perspective.
Last but not least I would think twice before using a smart album to do this, youi really do not want the content changing in this type of album, it will not save you any time, I would use static albums in the manner that I suggested.
RB
Ps. If you are interested in the ins and outs of Aperture organization features check out my PDF on the subject there is a bunch of stuff like this.

Correct sizing of a picture for printing

Good day all;
I am a wee bit new at all of this so this question may sound a bit simple.
Is there a correct way to size pictures for printing. This is what I have done.
My camera is set of 6 meg’s which gives me a huge original. I want to take this and print on a 4x6.
I bring up the picture, select print > click on “scale to fit media. This gives me the size of
5.333 X 4.
I go back to the picture select: Image>Image Size. Under Document size I enter 5.333 in the Width. The height changes to 4
Question, am I doing this correctly
Thanks All
Chomp

I looked up the resolutions for the Lumix Dmc-F27. Full resolution is 2816 * 2122 pixels, giving an aspect ratio of 1:1.327. If you want 4 by 6 inch prints (aspect ratio 1:1.5), you should crop so that the long axis is 6 inches. The short axis would then be 4.5241 inches and the resolution would be 469 pixels/inch. If you are sending the image to an injet printer, you would want to crop the short axis to 4 inches. In his Image Sharpening with Adobe PSCS2, Bruce Fraser states that the "native resolution" of HP inkjets is 300 ppi and that of Epsons is 360 ppi. He further states that Epsons can benefit from up to a resolution of 480 ppi and that sending more than 720 ppi to the printer can actually degrade image quality. With your camera, I see no good reason to use less than the native printer resolution unless file size is a concern.
In your situation, it would make sense to crop without resamplilng and send the image to the printer at 469 pixels per inch (assuming that you are using an Epson printer). If you don't mind arbitrary cropping, you could create a Photoshop action to automate the process and you could add suitable sharpening in the process. To simplify things, I would recommend turning off sharpening in the camera.
If you know that you will not need more than 4 by 6 inch prints, I see that the camera has a 1600 x 1200 pixel mode, which would give a 300 ppi 4 x 6 inch print.
If you are having the prints done at Walgreen's or Walmart and do not mind aribitrary cropping, you could likely send the native images to the printer and let the printer handle resampling and cropping. These machines usually print at 300 pixels/inch.

Newbie: Drums. What options are there for drums?

Hi there,
I'm having fun with Logic Express. I can play most instruments I need, but not drums. I've never played drums.
I don't have much money to spend of it.
Searching through previous threads, I found references to the following drum loop companies:
Drums on Demand:
http://www.drumsondemand.com/
BetaMonkey:
http://www.betamonkeymusic.com/
Drums from H*ll (Hehee, the forum edited that word!):
http://www.drumsfromhell.com/homeofdrumloops.html
I already purchased Apple's Jam Pack Rhythm Section. I was a somewhat disappointed in it, because it contains a little bit for everyone, and one or two loops for every style in the world, but not much of what I want.
I guess I want more slow-tempo rock. But not necessarily "soft rock". I like things to rise and fall in volume in a dramatic way, but not stay soft like a ballad, nor head-banging fast.
I haven't listened to Drums On Demand, but I'm a bit afraid their "soft" disk might be full of soft dreary ballads, and their "heavy" disk might be full of really fast head-banging stuff.
Maybe I'll still go with something like Drums On Demand. But the problem with loop disks seems to be that you will buy many loops that you will never use. And maybe, hopefully, find a few that are good. Pity they're not previewable online, and downloadable online.
What about MIDI loops? Is it possible to purchase MIDI loops and then just apply them to a standard drum kit in Logic Express?
I figured a MIDI file would be more editable. I could use an existing beat, and then add some extra drum or cymbal smashes to make it fit my music better.
Or should I just learn to make my own MIDI loops? I have a good sense of rhythm for other instruments. Would it be possible to apply this to drums easily, and play them on a keyboard? Having not played real drums, I am afraid I would not know how to get the feel of a real kit.
Thanks for your info.
G5 2x2GHz Mac OS X (10.4.8)
G5 2x2GHz Mac OS X (10.4.8)
G5 2x2GHz Mac OS X (10.4.8)

Tofu Mouse, if you ever do consider the more expensive options, take a good and hard and long look at EZdrummer. My band is using it to avoid having to pay for studio time every time we want to record drum tracks (we record the rest of our instruments + my vocals in our own studio, with very good results, but we don't have the equipment to record our own drums), and even without our drummer present, we are able to lay down our drum parts quickly.
I should mention that the drum arrangements our drummer composes and plays are extremely advanced (he is a schooled jazz, rock and metal drummer, so he is both very technical and very varied in his playing), but thanks to EZdrummer and Logic's brilliant hyper editor, we can usually replicate him even if he isn't present just by listening to low quality live recordings of him playing the actual songs. So far, the only people who have been able to hear that our drums are digital, are the ones who know that our own drumset could never yield so good sound quality as the EZdrummer samples do (The "Human Playing" button in EZdrummer is everyone's friend, ensuring that the drum beats never sound to artificial or perfect)
And this is probably one of the most advanced ways to use of EZdrummer. If all you want to do is lay down drum parts for home-written material, the included drum loops and the hyper editor will make that extremely easy for you.
Good luck, whatever peculiar drum tool you end up with

Save options while exporting to pdf

I do export in pdf often, and each time I see 3 checks (Pring each stage of build, add borders.., Include date), which are very annoing, since I don't need them at all and have to switch off all this great features. How to switch them off permanently?

You can minimize the margins considerably by unchecking two options and having your image slightly larger than the slide (there is a limit, of course).
By using the Print option, the setting you set in the Print Dialogue, stay as you last set them rather than reset each time. This should meet that objective. Try it.
The other choice is to uncheck those pesky boxes each time you Export a PDF.
Good Luck.

Help please with exporting for print

Hi All,
Hopefully someone here can help. I have the opportunity to get some 24x30 inch lustre prints printed out for free but the printer has some specific file requirements which I am not 100% sure how to meet.
Here they are:
1. Colour space : Adobe RGB(1998)
2. File size must be 24x30"
3. Resolution : 300ppi
4. File : Level 12 (or lower) Photoshop JPEG
Questions:
1. I have calibrated my monitor with a ColorVision Spyder so I use that profile on my MBP monitor. I then usually export from Aperture using colorsync profile sRGB IEC61966-2.1. To meet the requirement above do I just need to change the colorsync profile on export to Adobe RGB(1998) or should I be doing something while editing?
2. I use a Nikon D70 so my files are 3024 x 1998, how do this translate to inches? Do I need to up size the files and if so how do I do this in Aperture?
3. I take it all I have to do here is change the DPI setting on export to 300 (is DPI the same as PPI?)
4. I think this just means the image quality will be set to 12 on export.
Sorry for all the questions but getting prints done at a lab is something new to me and I would like to try and get the best results.
Thanks in advance,
Andrew

Hi Ian,
Thanks heaps for your quick reply. In regards to your answer for the 2nd question:
"2. You definitely need to upsize the files, 24x30" at 300ppi is 7200x9000px. You can use the 'fit within' option and give a size in inches and it will upsize as needed on export. Note that 24x30 is a drastically different aspect ratio than your 3:2 dSLR shots, so you may also want to crop the images to the 5:4 aspect."
Can you please advise what size, in pixels, I would need to crop to plus will this make the image less sharp, therefore I should sharpen more? Sorry I have never up sized and printed an image before so not sure if there is a correct way of doing it (I think I read somewhere you should up size in increments of 10% or something?)
Cheers.

Export for printing

I'm trying to export a full-sized jpeg from my Nikon D610 RAW file. When I go to the export screen, I'm faced with a number of options that include "file settings" and "image sizing". The "file settings" section can be controlled for 100 quality to output a jpeg with no file size limit. However, in the "image sizing" section, I'm forced to pick a ppi resolution. I don't want to pick a resolution ... I simply want to export the maximum jpeg file from my RAW image. In Apple's Aperture software, I can simply select "original size" and it exports clean, maximized jpegs that print perfectly every time. With Lightroom, I'm baffled that I can't do something so simple. How can I do this type of export in Lightroom 5? Thanks all! Mark

Sorry Mark, but I beg to disagree.
If the "Resize" box is not ticked then the pixel size of your exported file is identical to the original image file.
and you are never "forced" to enter any ppi in that field of the resize panel;.
If you set ppi to 1 then an image 3000pixels wide will appear 3000 inches wide.
If you set ppi to 60000 then an image 3000pixels wide will appear 0.05 inch wide.
BUT the PIXEL SIZE is still the same =3000pixels wide!
Below is a very long Q&A, similar to your question, that I have copied from another post on resizing (and I forget who to credit for this answer)- have a read.
Q. Something has changed in my Export settings and I can't figure it out. If I insert a file into any application (i.e. PowerPoint, Word, Publisher) that I exported from LR5.7 previous to last week, the images look fine . If I export a new image, the file size is large (10MB), but when I insert it into any application, the image itself is extremely small . I know it is not the picture itself, because I have tried it with images that have worked in the past that worked and now are experiencing the same issue. If I try to resize it in the program the image itself just becomes very distorted and pixelated. Any thoughts on what is wrong or what I screwed. I also included an image of my LR Export window
You have set your PPI (resolution) to 5000 pixels per inch. This does not affect the actual number of pixels contained in the image, but it can affect what happens to the image when it is brought into some applications - mainly, applications where the image is being placed onto some kind of a page.
In particular, with "desktop publishing" type programs, the application assumes that the stated physical size of the image (which is notionally calculated from the number of pixels in the image, combined with the PPI setting) has been "intended". And what you see within the program may not be the actual image, but instead a preview image made for some standardised PPI resolution.
To take a specific example: if you export a 5000px wide photo, and you set 5000ppi, and place it within a page layout program, that program will be thinking of it as a one inch wide image. If it makes a preview image for its own working purposes at 72ppi, then this preview will accordingly be 72 pixels wide - and will therefore look much cruder than your 5000px wide original would have done, as you manipulate this previewed image on screen.
On the other hand, if you export a 5000px wide photo, and you set 50ppi, and do everything else the same - the application will be treating this not as a 1" wide image, but as a 100" wide image, and its preview image (through this difference alone; remembering, the image file is unchanged except for the PPI setting) will in that case, be 7200px wide instead of 72px wide. And you will see every detail of the photo, whether that is appropriate or not... and the publication's saved file size will be much bigger, and it may be slower and more inconvenient to work with due to the sheer number of pixels in this preview,
The usual advice is perfectly correct, that if you have not set a physical size for your export (in inches or centimetres) then the PPI setting is not doing anything so far as the number of pixels in the exported image. But as you have discovered, it may still be a good idea to set this to some more moderate figure - and one very common convention for this, is 300ppi.

Newbie here: best sizing option while exporting for print?

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