[nForce] MSI K7N2G-LISR chipset fan needed

Hiya, my chipset fan is getting bad and overheating, I'm in the UK, would this work as a replacement http://www.vantec.com.tw/iceberq_copper.html or is there a better and quieter fan etc and has anyone already replaced one on this mobo?. I don't fancy zalman though but a nice fan etc would do and how do I fit it b.t.w please as there arn't any screws on this Mobo for it etc?

Actually, I'm thinking about this if you's lot think it will do the job?
http://www.scan.co.uk/Products/ProductInfo.asp?WebProductID=171616
Akasa Cool Blue Chipset Cooler (AK-210)
Chipset cooler
3 Hi-bright blue LED
Lo-noise
Fan dim: 40 x 40 x 10.8mm
rated speed: 5000 RPM
Sound: 23.03 dB(A)
Air flow: 5.2 CFM
Bearing: Sleeve bearing
Heatsink dim: 38 x 38 x 13mm
Thermal interface: Thermally conductive adhesive transfer tape
For full specification please visit Akasa

Similar Messages

MSI K7N2G-ILSR chipset fan stopped working. Help please.

I have an MSI K7N2G-ILSR motherboard. A couple days ago I started hearing a fluttering/groaning noise coming from inside the machine. I finally discovered it was coming from the small fan on the chipset.
Well, today I decided to try and take the fan off and fix it. After I blew some dust off of it, I put it back on the chipset heatsink and it failed to work at all. It's now broken.
Here are some questions I have.
1. Are these fans easy to replace? Where can I get one? Any brand suggestions?
2. I'm currently running my computer without this fan (but the heatsink is still affixed to the chipset). Is this bad? Will it kill my computer?
3. If it won't "kill" my computer what are the downsides to having no fan on the chipset?
4. My temperatures are now 10 degrees lower than when the fan was actually working. Have any idea why the temperatures are lower?

i also used the vantec one (copper like Flatblader) i got it at fry's for $10, it seems to be quieter and i used the smaller extra heatsink on the southbridge (just because it fits, i don't think it really gets all that hot) and i haven't found anywhere to put the other extra heatsink (bigger than the southbridge)
as for the hsf assembly, it comes off pretty easy, but you have to take the mobo out of the case (there are two little pegs you have to squeeze and push out from the bottom of the board) the heatsink is kinda sharp, i cut my finger pretty good trying to get it off
other than that, $10 for a copper hsf plus two extra heatsinks isn't bad in my book, and it looks kinda nice

MSI K7N2G-LISR

Hey, i just wanna say that i got my MSI K7N2G-LISR MB to day and it's working fine well...almost...i have a CPU:
AMD CPU Athlon XP 2000 1.667GHz Socket-A 266MHz FSB Tray "Thoroughbred"
AND in the bios it is on 1.25 gHz ?
somebody know why it is on automatic. ore something ?(

Are you using the onboard video? Will your monitor support anything more? What drivers are you using with your video?
Give us a rundown on the specs of your machine if you would...use my signature as an example if you want. It'll help us determine how to help you.
8)

MSI K7N2G-LISR Vcore-problems! Anyone?

Hi!
I just bought my new MB the other day. But it won't start if I raise the voltage at the Vcore!!
My CPU is a T-bred XP2100+, 512 MB Twinmos PC3200, and Thermaltake Volcano 7+ (w/modified fan).
I tested these parts at another MB, and reached 2,25 Ghz at 1,775 volt.
However, the MSI-card won't start when I modify the voltage at the vcore. I tried with only 1,625 V and it wouldn't start. The pc and all the fans start up, but the screen i all black.
Can anyone please help me with this one?

well well... I returned the board back to my supplier and got the money back. Won't risk my warranty by volt-modding my card.
I've had these MSI-cards:
K7Pro2a
K7Turbo-R
K7Pro266-R
KT3 Ultra-ARU
K7N2G-LISR
But this time I change to Asus, Epox or Abit.
My T-bred Xp2100+ is running at normal speed, aposed to xp2900+ speed with an increase in the voltage at the Abit NF7-S. It's really a shame that MSI has this problem. I've always liked MSI cards due to their bundles, and full of specifications.
Their lack of Extreme overclocking possibillities has never bothered me, as their little tweaking advantages have been enough for me. But this time... it's just to little..
To bad MSI..

MSI K7N2G-ILSR Problem! Need help!

Hi,i bought a K7N2G-ILSR last year when i was in Germany. This mainboard never worked as well... I wanted to work with Athlon XP 2500+ and Dual Channel 256MB+256MB=512MB 400 Mhz DDR-Ram. It hasn't worked when i first wanted to use and i changed the jumper to the securit mode than it worked but it has never opened with one button pushing.I was always trying to get screen vision with 3-5 closing and opening.One day i tried to get the jumper back and i tried to open but it never worked. I got the jumper securit again but again never worked. I tried everything but it never worked after that event. Normally i had to inform it at first and give it back or give it to the repairing but i couldn't have time. Now i have to do it this time. Now i want to change this or something else but in Turkey. I am living in Turkey and does MSI Support Centre change it or repair it? What can i do to get rid of this problem. Need help!
Thanks for your helps from now!

MSI K7N2G-ILSR Mainboard 11X166
AMD Athlon XP 2500+
2X256 MB PC 3200 Twinmos
OnBoard Graphic Card
Samsung 40 GB 5400rpm HDD
300 Watt Power Supply
I dont have more infos but i can find out if you want...

MSI Pro-E Chipset Cooling (Need Some Major Clarification Here Before I Begin)

Hey guys, about to bring up a very well known issue here, which brought about many 'heated' debates, no pun intended :P I know there has been many threads on this issue for nearly 2 years now, and well, i did tons of reading on the subject, starting with this classic thread here: https://forum-en.msi.com/index.php?topic=126885.0 and various others. I'll try and keep this as short as i can and get right to the point. I know what needs to be done, and the method i will be going with (though i am still debating with some options on the final decision), so i wont even bother going into all of that and save myself and you guys some time here. I am quite certain that HU16E has seen more than enough of these threads, and that every time he sees one, he probably gets a brain ache (sorry man )
But basically, i want to remove the stock heatsink on my X58 Pro-E mobo, and replace BOTH the NB and SB heatsinks. This is something very simple to do, take maybe no more than half hour to get it all removed, put the new TIM on, reseat it, etc, and i am all done. The only problem is having to gut the system and put everything back, which takes even longer to do and is something i am not looking forward to doing, but i am just not comfy with an idle temp of 78c-80c, so i want to take care of all this asap. Yes, i know that is under Intels specs, and yes, it IS working, but i haven't even bothered to play any games on this new system yet, because i know if i was to fire up a power hungry game, that the temps would be well over 90c, and that is just NOT GOOD.
What i want to be sure of, and the main question here, is do any of you know, FOR CERTAIN, which heatsink will fit this mobo without any blood, sweat, tears, tedious modding and cussing up a storm and throwing temper tantrums? Or even worse, getting the heatsink and having it not fit at all? That is something i want to avoid, as it just wastes more time having to send it back, look for another and just creates more hassle. If i do decide to actually hacksaw the heatpipe that links the stock NB/SB together, well at that point, there is no going back, and when i go to put the new heatsinks on and they wind up not fitting, i am basically screwed and wont be able to use the pc for days until finding the right one, so again, i want to avoid all of that.
In that thread i linked to above, he mentions he used that Thermalright NB heatsink, but the problem here, is that he was using the Eclipse mobo, which is not the one i have. I seen some others in that thread saying that they had the PRO-E, but never went into enough detail that they used that same heatsink. It seems like it would fit ok, but 'seems' isn't good enough, and i need to be certain it would. Looking in the system right now, i can lower the gfx card to PCI-E slot 2, to make even more room, so shouldn't be a problem i would think.
But then i came across this thread, and found it quite interesting: https://forum-en.msi.com/index.php?topic=129044.0
Now this person used that Thermaltake Spirit 2 NB cooler, but it seems Thermaltake yanked that off the market, because the link to newegg in the thread, now shows it OUT OF STOCK/DEACTIVATED. Also if you go here:
http://www.thermaltakeusa.com/Product.aspx?S=1231&ID=1901 and click the pic of the old Spirit 2, it then leads you here: http://www.thermaltakeusa.com/Product.aspx?S=1231&ID=1901 , so they obviously recalled the other one for whatever reason. I am guessing because that one was copper, and this one is aluminum and also smaller and virtually do the same job as the other. This one seems really nice and would definitely be the one i would like to go with, since it has a 40mm fan on it all in one, unlike the Thermalright, which doesn't come with a fan (but can use an 80mn fan as well with the mounting contents it comes with). Based on what i have been reading about this issue, if i reseat everything properly, use AS5 and make sure the fans are blowing properly, this Thermaltake heatsink should have virtually the same effect as the Thermalright would. Of course, this leaves the SB completely exposed, which leads to me part 2 of this person's post. He linked to this NB/SB cooler, which is just about the same size as the stock SB cooler, and he 'claims' it fits just fine:
http://www.xoxide.com/enzotech-cnb-s1l.html
There is also another model by the same company, which has a small fan on it too:
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835708006
The first one would definitely fit, at least where the gfx card is concerned, albeit, barely. Not sure if the one with the fan would, but then again, based on all that i've read so far, that seems like overkill, since the SB doesn't get hot at all, only lukewarm at this point, and a decent heatsink is all that is really needed. However, i say this person 'claimed' it fit, 'supposedly', because he never posted pics when asked about it, and then disappeared from his own thread shortly after. And what spoiled the whole read for me, was another person posting this:
"The enzotech low profile heatsink will not fit on the south bridge because the hole to hole diameter is too large for it to match up against the mounting holes of the south bridge on the x58 boards.
The Enzotech CNB-S1L has 2 possible hole-hole diameters: 54.6 mm and 59mm. However, the mounting holes on the mobo are only 49mm apart. So the Enzotech heatsink designed for the northbridge will not fit on the south bridge.
If you somehow managed to make it fit, please post pics."
So yea, now i can't be certain that heatsink would fit on the SB, and if this guy was telling the truth, if he did his own modding to force it to fit, or what. Yes, i can hacksaw the pipe off, and leave the stock SB heatsink there, but...i figure if i am going to replace one, i may as well replace the other while i am doing all of that. Like i said, i don't want to have to find out it doesn't upon installing it, because that is just unnecessary time being wasted.
And there you have it, guys. Now, i am no expert at all when it comes a lot of this stuff, as far as certain technical aspects go, but many posters here really know their stuff and from what i have read here and on other forums, i feel like a total noob sometimes lol. So all this boils down to, and what i really need to know, is will all the heatsinks that i have outlined here, fit this motherboard properly? I really need to take care of this asap, because this thing running at 78-80 all the time is really going to lower it's life span, and every second that it does, is just one less second of use. Maybe that is being a lil too dramatic, but still, i've seen so many get their temps down to the low 40s and 50s, so i know for sure this board DOES NOT need to be running that hot :-/
On another note, i noticed many saying they wanted to add nuts/washers or whatever, to give better stability and contact. Well, since as i am as bad as it gets with carpentry, measuring, etc, i have no damn idea which ones i would need. I once was asked to measure something long ago when i worked as a laborer for a carpenter and reported back, saying to him '2/3s'. The guy looked at me like i had two heads lmao. Fortunately, i can read a ruler/measuring tape much better now lol, but i'm still no Norm, from This Old House. I hear all this talk of 'spring mounts', 'push pins' 'mounting holes', 'screws', etc. Since i am unable to see the back of my mobo right now (only the CPU area from the other side of the case panel when removed), i have no idea if its using metal screws, or push pins, or what. I see the heatsinks i mentioned here, as well as many others, use these various methods, so im uncertain what would work on this board (if it needs plastic/nylon screws or metal ones). Now, i checked out this youtube vid of a guy showing how to remove my exact mobo and reseat it with new/better paste. It was quite informative. Just so you guys know, i have the older 'brown colored' Pro-E board. The one in the video looks to be the same color. However, i just purchased this board, along with the whole system less than 3 weeks ago, so i don't know how old this Pro-E may be.
Another important question about what this guy did in the vid too. You can fast-forward to where he takes it apart. Looks to me like they are metal screws, but again, im unsure if mine use those. The front of the heatsinks have two holes, those of which i can easily see, and have what looks to be a plastic washer or something on it. It looks 'greyish'. Now, A VERY IMPORTANT issue in this vid, is this guy removed the THERMAL PADDING on the heatsinks. I read here all over the place, that you are NOT SUPPOSED TO DO THAT, as to ensure that the heatsinks aren't touching any components on the board, the chipset itself. As you can see in the first couple comments, the guy says 'Yes, the existing pads were scraped off. It's important to remove the old thermal pads, otherwise you won't have any benefit & it may even be worse.' So yea. all that does is just confuse me more. Considering how gunked up, though, that the paste will be when removing it, i can only image that the stock pad on there is probably gonna be pretty nasty as well too, which is why he probably took it all off. But yea, wondering if you guys could clarify that for me, if that should be done or not. Seems many here were very firm that it should NEVER be removed.
I can honestly i never have had an issue with MSI until now, and they do put out quality products, but i hope in the future, that newer mobos would use better TIM and have a fan added on the NB or something. Other manufacturers do this, some don't, but they ALL should, so i am not just singling out MSI here. We live in an age where technology is very capricious and always progressing, and back in the day, well, PCs didn't require crazy amounts of fans, watercooling, etc. But with things putting out so much wattage these days, apps/games/movies requiring better hardware, which also needs more power and/or outputs a lot too, well you don't have to work for NASA to know that heat is going to be a problem, and the motherboard being an obvious vital component, should be adequately cooled just as well as everything else that needs it. I do love this board, and it does more than enough to suit my needs, i just wish it didn't run so dang hot That's the ONLY gripe i have about it.

Hey, HU16E, and others,
I just wanted to let you know that i finally broke down and attempted this procedure (after a lot of hesitation), and everything worked out perfectly as you said, WITHOUT having to buy some aftermarket chipset cooler. Maybe it was meant to be for me, because i learned a crap load of things in the process and in the end, it wasn't as hard or grueling as i thought (although 1 process was, which ill get to shortly lol).
Once i finally got everything gutted (well, just the stuff attached to the mobo), i then removed it, and hit a wall, because the screws that hold down the chipset heatsink, wouldnt fit any phillips head screw drivers had, so i had to stop, run out and buy a lil six pack of VERY small philips and flat heads. I had assumed during my extensive research on all of this, that those screws used the 6-32 size, which is pretty much the smallest i could find out there. Many pointed out the RC/Model Airplane hobby shops, but nothing i could find out where i live. Those 4 screws differ from everything else in the case. I thought they would be the M3 type screw (6-32), which on the wiki for pc-screws, had said they were commonly used on most mobos. But anyway, i got those off with the right screwdriver, and that was where the 'grueling' part came in.
The NB heatsink came off after 5 minutes of careful wiggling/rocking/twisting to the left and right. I never once PULLED UPWARD, until it was VERY LOOSE, in fear that i would crack the NB die, because if that happened, well, the mobo would basically have become nothing more than a good coffee cup stand). The SB took about 20 minutes since it was cemented on there pretty good. I had to use a wrench and lock both sides of it on there, and then again, just twisted to the left n right carefully, because my hands/fingers were too big to get a grip on the heatsink it uses. Finally, it came off, and i was good to go, but my goodness.....
...not to sound to harsh here, but man, that original paste it had was just terrible, HU16E. This Pro-E i have is the brownish colored one, and so, it had this pink, bubble gum stuff, that was VERY sticky and hard, and i can now see why these heating issues were taking place. Also, the HS itself wasnt as tight as when i finally put it all back. I used alcohol and qtip swab, and also your toothpick method of scraping from the outside, in, to form a clump, which worked well, but the thinner residue afterward was a real hassle to get off there, both on the HS and the NB die/SB surface. Used a butterknife on the HS, but only soft and non-metallic stuff on the NB die, and just kept wiping with alcohol and a microfiber pad for what felt like an eternity until it just basically dissolved and got that nice mirror finish. I used 4 of the 6-32 washers between the stock screw/spring/washer, and believe it or not, it fit very well. It's not loose, the screws head doesnt go through it at all, and once it was scerwed in nice n tight, there was no play at all, so it worked out really well. I mean, at most while it was loose, was probably just a micro millimeter of space while it was around the screws shaft, but again, once it was in there it was tight as can be. I used Arctic Cooling MX-4, since it one of the best out there and i liked the fact it was non-conductive. From what i have read about pastes, metallic-based compounds just arent necessary in this day and age anymore. Also replace the paste on the CPU cooler too.
So i fired up, and well...checked the bios temps, and there ya have it. Went from 82 degrees, down to 48! That definitely made it all worth it. Now i can finally do some gaming/hd content without having to worry about it going into the 90s. It hasnt even exceeded 60 on load, so all is well for sure Also have an antec spot fan set on medium and aimed right over the NB and added a 200mm fan on the top of case, acting as exhaust, so im sure that all plays a part too.
Honestly, though, i really hope MSI is NOT using that paste anymore, because it really is just....well.....ill just say it's BAD lol. It sure as hell would work awesome for some kind of adhesive or glue that is for sure lmao. Maybe MSI should hold onto to that stuff, and give the glue market some competition lol. But yea, as a thermal compound, umm...i just sure hope they switched to a good type of paste for all their future mobos, especially the z68s. I also don't believe that the NB/SB heatsink ever needed a combo type deal, via the heat pipe, as this just creates more tedium. Heck, i dont even think the SB even needs a HS on it, as it doesn't even give off much heat at all. Mine is barely lukewarm to the touch. Not to mention, when taking it off, the heat pipe tends 'move/bend' a bit, and this means the heatsinks on either side will not match up well, or be perfectly parallel when you seat them back on the board. I had to keep bending it gently and standing it on my table til all 4 pegs on the bottom would touch, this way i would know that it'd reseat properly. I hope in the future that MSI will scrap that whole linked HS set-up.
As i stated before, love the board, and the TIM issue was the only issue i had with it, and now since that is resolved, i have no gripes whatsoever. Down the line, ill probably get a z68 soon, and wouldn't mind at all going with MSI, but id like to be assured first that some changes were made to the chipset cooling, because even though this was all a good learning experience for me, it is not something i want to go through again lol.
But hey, thanks a bunch for all of your advice HU16E and other mods as well. I was going to go with that Thermalright HS, and your posts (past and present) convinced me otherwise and the temps are down to what others got them to WITH that same aftermarket heatsink, so you saved me 30USD

MSI Neo4 Platinum chipset fan and SpeedFan

is there anyway to get SpeedFan to adjust the speed the Northbridge chipset? I can see the speed but cannot adjust it.

Quote from: olson on 22-February-05, 00:46:05
i never used the fan on the northbridge
out of the box installed this one
http://www.zalman.co.kr/eng/product/view.asp?idx=71&code=014
no sound: temp 30 degrees
should be acceptable
no crashes at all
Olaf
Where are you getting the tempreading? The tempreading in Speedfan must be wrong because, with fan it says 10-12 Celcius wich could be around 30 real degrees. If YOU are reading 30 (fake) degrees i think you got somewhat more. 80-90 or so... I tried unplugging my fan for 5 minutes and after that you couldnt put a finger on the small heatsink around the fan without getting burned.

First time computer builder - using K7N2G-LISR

Here is my story:
I am a first time part by part computer builder, I have installed every product except a CPU and Motherboard seperately. This was my first time buying each part on its own and assembling it myself though.
The parts I am using are:
MSI K7N2G-LISR motherboard
Athlon XP 2400
512 MB 2700 DDR Corsair XMS Ram
40 GB Western Digital 7200 RPM HD
Sony 32x CD-Ron
Integrated Graphics
400W Power Supply
Vantec Aeroflow heatsink
I had some trouble installing the heatsink. I had both paste and thermal pads, since it was my first time doing this and thermal pads seemed alot easier, I tried out one of them. I continued putting the PC together and everything was working just fine.
I got to the BIOS and messed around with the settings a bit. I realized I accidently set my HD as slave to the CD-Rom. I also set it to High Performance, and allocated 128 MB of ram to the onboard graphics. Before exiting out of the bios, I checked my CPU temp and it was a whopping 64C/148F. After I powered down, I fixed my HD/CD-Rom to the proper settings, and took off my heatsink.
I removed what was left of the thermal pad and scraped as much away as I could. I then put a little layer of thermal paste on top of the CPU using the credit card method. I had a little trouble putting the heatsink back on, using its side clip.
The computer refuses to boot up at all now.
The diagnostic lights will vary depending on what settings I have, between:
(R= Red, G= Green)
R G
R R
(Memory Detection Test)
I don't know how long it is supposed to sit there, but I gave it a minute. This was the first hang-up I encountered. I had two sticks of 256 MB so I alternated between the two sticks in different DIMMs, but nothing worked.
After screwing around and putting the original settings back (with the HD/CD-Rom) I got this message:
G G
G R
(Testing Real Time Clock)
It hung there for a while too.
I left the HD/CD-Rom configuration, removed the ram, and got:
R G
R G
(Testing base and extended memory)
Again, it just sat.
No matter what I do, I can't seem to get past this stage.
My question is this:
Did I fry my CPU? If not, could you think of something else preventing me from starting up?

Well it's certainly possible that you did fry the CPU but I don't think so at this point...
Do this:
UNPLUG the machine
UNPLUG the MB from the PS
Ground yourself if possible otherwise make sure you have touched METAL on the case prior to unplugging it. And don't walk around on the carpet or shuffle your feet.
Set the HD on the Primary IDE as Single Drive/Master
Set the CDROM on the Secondary IDE as Single/Master
Take off your Heatsink and clean it really well and get ALL of the old goo off of it and the processor. Use Orange Clean as I've found it really does the best job. Put the paste (Arctic Silver II if you can get it) back on and install the fan/heatsink again.
Install 1 stick of memory in slot 3
Plug in the Floppy
Plug in the system fans and the power hookups
Plug in the MB to the PSupply
Find the jumper to reset the CMOS/BIOS and set it to clear
wait the amount of time it says in the manual and set it back. sometimes you have to remove the battery to get it to reset so you might just do that first and then do the jumper
Plug in the PS and start up the system and see what happens.
If it doesn't start you may have fried any number of things in the machine so you'll have to start replacing them one by one to figure out what the problem is.
Hope it works tho!! 8)

K7N2G.LISR internal graphics card not working

After building a new pc with msi k7n2g-lisr I can't play 3d games because after 10 seconds or less windows close the game and appears windows desktop.
I've installed an external video card and everithing works fine.
Does anybody know how can I use the internal video card?

Hi Wonkanoby,
Thx for the link! I am aware that also other people have had the same problem as I have not only with the Crucial but also with other RAM modules.
I did plan originally to get hold of 1 Gig's worth of Corsair as it looks most likely to work but it crossed my mind that I think it will not be a 100% stable system still :(
Following this I contactd Crucial directly because I wanted to send the RAM back to them so I could be credited. The employee had a word with the enginneer and he explained that Crucial could replace the module and give it another try as they were aware of a problem with the K7N2G-LISR board?? Looking on the paperwork that comes with the module it does say "Upgrade for a MSI (Micro Star) MS-6570 (K7N2G) system)". I only mentioned that I had a K7N2G motherboard and there are all the other details there so it seems that even Crucial know about the problems with this m/b. I took their word for it and would decide to give it a try in the hope I could finally sort this problem out but unfortunately it is the same problem :(
The only thing we can wait for now is a strong BIOS update (see my post in the BIOS section) which will fix these problems with the NforceII chipset. How long we will have to wait is another matter. I for one cannot wait to long because I bought my board from E-buyer and their policy of RMA is 28 days or even shorter I think (cant quite remember). I hope MSI can supply because the board is impressive if it did work.

K7N2G-LISR wheres my lan?

ive been using this board for about 6 months with no probs using a usb adsl modem,ive now decided to set up a nework between it and my laptop but im unable to activate my lan port any ideas please?
msi k7n2g-lisr
amd 2800+ athlon
512 ddr 3200
geforce t1 4200
120g WD HDD 8mb cache
pioneer 106d dvd rom
pioneer 107 dvdrw
nec 2500 dvdrw
80g WD HDD 2mb in caddy through firewire
antec case and 480w true power psu

there should be a rj45 socket alongside your sound connection on the back plate.
if there isnt, then u aint got the L part of it.
take the baord back because you didnt get what was being sold under the description. should have no effect on your rights as far as returning it is concerned.

MSI nForce2 board REVIEWED- version: K7N2G-LISR

In my spanking new copy of PCPro.
Ratings (out of max 6 stars)
Performance 6
Features 6
Value for Money 5
Availability: next week (when the mag comes out on the newsstand)
Price 129 quid plus VAT
Supplier: Simply website
I can put up some quotes from this mag if anyone wants :D

Quote
MSI has elected to deliver most of the features with its new K7N2G-LISR board, which includes both the IGP integrated graphics and the the MCP-T south bridge controller... Four USB2 ports and 10/100BaseTX Ethernet..on the backpanel and MSi also provides a backplate with 2 Firewire ports. Another backplate features TV-out.
Quote
However, MSI has only put one VGA D-sub on the backpanel so dual-monitor setups are out of the question.
MSI has added a Promise PDC20376 RAID controller... a superb device supporting ATA/133 and Serial ATA RAID
Specs:
nForce2 GT chipset
3 DDR slots
one AGP8x slot
5 PCI slots
one ACR slot
floppy disk
2 SATA channels
3 ATA/133 channels
4 USB2 ports
1parallel 1 serial 1 VGA, 2 PS/2, line-in, mic, line-out
Nforce audio
10/100 BaseTX Ethernet
backplates with 2Firewire, 2 USB2, composite and S-Video TV-out and audio
Utility CD
HTH,

MSI K7N2G-L issues, need help!

Ok I am going to skip right to the chase. My hardware is found in my sig. PSU, Ram, etc is all fine, and above required specs, and that isnt an issue. The issue is the board itself. Got a replacement MSI K7N2G-L for one that die prematurely. Got it saturday in the mail, and popped a 800mhz duron in, and ran it at 133mhz fsb. It ran perfectly fine. got the replacement xp 2000+ today, popped it in, no go at 133mhz. Its unstable...tested proc in server, server ran fine, tested server proc (same kind of amd, same speed), no go in here. Seems that at 133mhz as a fsb, the system is unstable to the max. I can get to the windows login, and it freezes. Kind of have it running at 130mhz fsb, but right now its not liking that again. Temperatures also seem way too high, even though i used the same heatskink and 7k rpm fan as before. I even have a nice layer of artic silver 2 going as before. So, im wondering, why is this happening? Whats with the board? I got a lemon again didnt it. I even played with the one green jumper that sets the fsb settings since I saw a post before that that helped. Ok, maybe it was a coincidence that it worked for a short while, back to its old tricks though. I emailed the vendor about it, but I really cant have a machine that doesnt work, and I can get it at 100mhz fsb, but thats just not right. I poured way too much money into my system, and I expect it to work.
any suggestions with this board? If i get one more dud I need to get another brand or something.

Ok a little update. 1630MHz Is what I got it running at right now, 130mhz fsb. I fiddled with everything I could think of, and well this is as stable as its getting . I think I need to RMA the board yet again. What do you guys think?
Temps on the cpu are running at about 111 F. The northbridge chipset is like at 90degrees most of the time. Seems hot to the touch (it has a msi labeled heatsink on it ). Unfortunatley I dont have a heatsink/fan for the bridge, and at this point wont plunk $$ down on one till I get a replacement mobo I think. I flashed the bio's from 3.6 on up to the current 3.9 and I dont believe i saw any difference. It would almost seem like the temps are the true culprit, because once in a while I can get things going at 133mhz for the fsb but when I do somthing like play ut2k4 demo, it just freezes. Dunno what else to say.
Comments please?

Need help with MSI K7N2G-ILSR

This is probably a really easy problem to fix, but my internet time is limited since my old system is in pieces, and I have to do this from work.
My new MSI K7N2G-ILSR, running with a Barton XP2800 and 2 DIMMs of Geil 512MB DDR PC3200 , doesn't seem to be happy with things. When I tried to turn things on, I got no video output, and there was a regular series of beeps.
I believed this is just a memory issue, and I intended to look into it when I get home...however, it seems things are a little more complicated than I may have thought.
After failing to get any results with the pc3200 512 dimms, I switched to my old 2700 256 meg DIMMS, which I knew worked fine. To my surprise, the system then worked...almost. It got to a certain point, and then gave the message "no drive is connected to fastrack", or something to that effect, and then froze.
The system also worked with combinations of my old 256meg and one of the new 512s, but not with both 512s at once. The 256s, in combination, powered up every time; however, they didn't allow me to install anything. The combination of 2 256s and 1 512 worked most of the time, but would occasionally fail to detect the the RAM - resulting in the same steady beeping as earlier.
For the sake of curiousity, I removed the IDE cable from the DVD drive. To my surprise, Windows (the drive was not formatted) tried to load...which would not happen when the DVD was connected. I then reconected the DVD, and removed the IDE connection from the hard drive. XP tried to install, and then crashed...in fact, the whole system powered down. And now will not restart again. It's dead, and I can't seem to get a single response from it.
This made me wonder if the problem lies with my PSU. Does this sound like something which would happen if the PSU was playing up? I have a 450 watt unit, which I thought would be ok. But the only thing I can think is that the PSU doesn't have enough power to deal with the demands of my new system. I imagine the 3200 DIMMs require a lot more power than the 2700, which might explain why the system can't power up using two of them - the PSU can't handle it.
Any ideas at all? I'm getting more than a little frustrated now. Any advice gratefully received...

Remove all devices from your setup except the CD-ROM (or DVD device) and the hard drive, and connect each to the end connector on different IDE cable, making sure each device is set to "cable select" (preferred) or "master" (2nd choice). Plug the CD-ROM (or DVD device) into IDE2; Plug the hard drive cable into IDE1. For now, don't plug anything into IDE3.
Your power supply is probably adequate, but beware. While many PS'es are "high wattage," many don't deliver enough power to the critical 3.3V bus. Check to make sure that your PS is rated for AT LEAST 28 Amps for the 3.3VDC supply. If not, get a new ANTEC TRUE PS that is. Don't skimp on power; it's like you skimping on food, then running a marathon.
Only install (1) 256MB module in one of the two slots that are together. I recommend the slot closest to the CPU.
If you are running a video card, remove it and use the IGP for now.
Now, power up, and when you get the logo screen, go into your BIOS by pressing the delete key. If your screen is blank and just sits there, then power off, unplug the computer, and set the "clear CMOS jumper." Wait 30 seconds, replace jumper, plug in power cord, and restart computer.
When you get to BIOS, make certain that it sees both drives in the first BIOS screen. Set your time and day (if you like) and then go to the second screen and set your CD-ROM/DVD as the first boot device, set the HD0 as the second (it should already be that way), hit and save and exit, but don't set anything else. Your computer should now boot from the CD-ROM and try to install Windows (I assume XP.) When it asks for you to press F6 to load RAID drivers, don't.
Choose to format your drive using NTFS, don't choose the quick format.
Report back!

K8N NEO PLATINUM Nvidia nforce 3 250 GB Chipset rebooting - hanging !@$%@#$@

Hi folks,
I am working on the K8N NEO platinum motherboard based on the Nvidia nforce 3 250 GB Chipset.
A couple of days ago I lost my internet connection (broadband). After a couple of minutes it ok again. But suddenly the computer frooze.
After rebooting (button on case) I found out that lots of things couldn't be closed anymore once they were opened. I needed to use CTRL-ALT-DEL to go the the active Tasks. But then that started to freeze too so I decided to wipe everything of the system.
I repartioned and reformated the computer with the win XP PRO CD and reinstalled the OS. I saw immediatly that the system was slower then before and that it did not found the internet connection anymore. I checked the LAN connection and there it sayed that the LAN card was working well but that no cables were connected. This was not true because I dubbel checked them twice. I even replace the cable. It was not my Internet provider neighter because the computer is in a local network and others had no problem to access the internet. So I decided to reinstall and reinstall it again. I reinstalled the system (partioning, formatting) it 4 times. The last time suddenly it found my connection back. Then I installed all updates of windows and I used my live update from MSI to update my components.
I am using live update 3 and updated the BIOS and all other parts who needed to be updated. This was done without the presence of a AV and so on. Everything went well and no errors occured. I received everytime a message with success.
Today my computer suddenly hanged itself again. This already 3 times. Nothing is possible anymore except the boot button on the case.
I also encountered 3 times the while surfing the computer suddenly reboots itself without any warning or message.
What the hell is going wrong here ???
Can aynone give me a clue please ?
Is the motherboard dying ?
MSI live bios Version 3.7.000
MS-7030(K8N Neo Series / K8N Neo platinum)
BIOS version 1.7 (latest version)
Award bios release
2005/05/10

Charly.P
Russ_xp was asking about the Max amps on your power supply should be on label like this:-
Need yours - 3.3v= ??A.5v=??A,12v=??A
luck

K8n neo4-f. I reduced chipset fan voltage. OK?

I just got my neo4-f, assembled the parts and the mobo chipset fan was just as noisy as people said. 7500rpm terror. So I grabbed the Zalman fan voltage reduction cable I had lying around (from 12v to 5v) and sure enough the fan got bearably quiet.
My question now is, does the fan now still cool the chipset enough to not cause any damage over time, or should i get myself a new chipset cooling solution?
On top of the lowered rpm the fact that i got an msi 7600gt with dual slot cooling which almost totally blocks the chipset fan worries me...
Sheesh, couldn't MSI find a better place for the chipset?
Anyone who's in the same situation and has any experience with it (good or bad)?
Thank you.
-Lefhark

A word of advice :
After reducing rpm on the original chipset fan to 5400rpm approx. the noise was almost gone and my system kept stable under all conditions.After a while though I needed to grease the fan with sewing machine oil,this works fine for a while,but sooner or later the grinding noise will return,especially with a cold boot.
So I ordered a replacement fan from msi,and got one for free.
Great,since it runs at 5400rpm by default.To be done with crawling under my desk I replaced it,and the noise was just a little over that from the original which I used with reduced rpm.
But after a few weeks the grinding noise returned!!!Also the metal housing fibrated,and the fan had trouble staying at 5400rpm,going to 6500rpm sometimes!
So my board is designed for noise,noise and more noise.
Enter the revoltec,a nice replacement which will fit with minimum room left.
It makes noise also.And doesn't have a rpm reading.
So the original at 5400 rpm was the quietest,until it started to make noise and had trouble keeping a stable rpm(dropping and rising rpm).
Now I use the fanmate on the revoltec but can't see which rpm it spins,so I feel with my finger on the heatsink and it's pretty hot.
On the other hand,ppl use the zalman northbridge passive cooler and it seems to be adequate if you point a case fan in that direction.
The system temp is not the NB chip temp.It's a sensor located somewhere and in my case it's usually on par with my cpu temp to a maximum of 45°C.My cpu went around 50°C with room temp of 30°C but the system temp maxed out at 45°C. This was all under full load ofcourse.

[nForce] MSI K7N2G-LISR chipset fan needed

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