Nine key not working on macbook pro 2008

Trying to figure out if anone has solved the "Nine" key disfunction. It was intermitent for a while and now I get nada.
Any help would be great. I have tried all the reboots and safe mode start-ups.
I'm using Lion 10.7.3

That is perfectly normal. Serial numbers are platform specific. You need to upgrade to CS6 and make the switch.
Order product | Platform, language swap
Creative Suite 6
Mylenium

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Graham

Try install the newest Intel® HD Graphics Driver.
http://downloadcenter.intel.com/Detail_Desc.aspx?lang=eng&changeLang=true&Dw nldId=22376
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I'm just in the process to switch from Windows to MacOS. I tried my old licenses from Adobe Master Collection cs5 on the Mac, but it doesn't work

That is perfectly normal. Serial numbers are platform specific. You need to upgrade to CS6 and make the switch.
Order product | Platform, language swap
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External isight not working with Macbook Pro early 2008

My external isight is not working with my Macbook Pro early 2008 (2.4 GHz, Intel Core 2 Duo, 6 GB RAM, OSX Lion). It goes warm when plugged into the firewire port but is not recognized in system prefs (lists as "unknown device" and also does not turn on (green light. I tried resetting PRAM and all the other stuff as suggested here but no luck. It used to work fine on a 1st generation Macbook and I remember that one of the first times I tried it with this machine here it turned on for a few secs (green light) but then it just simply stopped.
Unfortunately, I have no other firewire device to check the port.
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Our (old) external Firewire iSights can be sensitive to dust, shock, vibration, humidity, and other environmental factors in storage. (I store my spare in its original plastic shipping case with a new desiccant pack on a solid shelf - never in a desk drawer or other container that moves.)
You have tried several good things and may be finding that your old iSight needs work.
Here are the alternatives I can offer. Consider any you have not tried in any order you like:
(1) You can try Apple's suggestions from http://support.apple.com/kb/HT2090
Test in more than one user account and with more than one Apple softwre application.
(2) My expanded suggestions here: http://www.ralphjohns.co.uk/EZJim/EZJimpage4.html
(3) Reset Firewire ports using the info from this old archived Apple article: http://web.archive.org/web/20090331211534/http://support.apple.com/kb/HT1317
(4) If you have no local Apple Authorized service Provider who can help you, other service options are here: http://www.apple.com/support/isight/service/
(5) Consider a new USB cam with current warranty such as one of these: http://www.mac-compatible-web-cam.com/
Message was edited by: EZ Jim

Audio not working on macbook pro

Hi,
I have a 2007 Macbook pro. I have changed battery for this laptop twice in the past 5 years. As everyone else, I experience overheating issues. Otherwise, it has been working fine.
Today, I started using the itunes store to browse tv shows, books, and music. Suddenly I heard a big rattling noise (really loud) in my mac and it was coming from the top left side (probably the fan!). I quit the applications and shut down my laptop. When I restarted the mac, I could not listen to any songs neither from my mac nor from the internet, say youtube. No audio of any sort is working in my mac right now, not even the alert sounds.
- I checked the system preferences and could not change any output controls.
- After sometime, Ive also started noticing the red light in the headphone jack. But, this red light comes on intermittently. I tried putting my headphones in and out 3-5 times, it still did not solve the issue. The light may go off, but there is still no audio from my mac.
- Everytime I restart my mac, I hear the rattling sound. I checked my hardware, repaired the disk (using the Mac OSX disk), reset SMC, PRMV settings. None of these helped.
Im worried that my fan has gone bad and this in turn has also affected my internal audio system for some reason? I would appreciate any troubleshooting tips in this regard!
Thank you!

Well, for the red light issue, cut the end off a Q tip, or clean cut a Wooden tootooth pick(NO PAPAER CLIPS OR ANY OTHER CONDUCTIVE MATERIAL) and GENTLY "massage the headphone jack,(there is a micro switch that can hang, stop at the LEAST amount of resistance). Reboot see if that helps.
Also go to system preferences>sound>output tab and make sure the mute box is not checked, set the volume slider is at least half way up, and make sure built in speakers are selected.
If this does not solve your issue, go to utilities>Audio/MIDI set up, click putput tab, and make sure source is set to built in speakers, when selected double click on the built in speakers log out and reboot.
If you have been using Garageband, launch GB and go to GB preferences>Audio/MIDI, and select from the output tab intrenal speakers.
Here's what worked for me. It's not a workaround, this acutally solved the problem and I haven't had speaker issues since.
Go to "Activity Monitor" (you can hold "Command" "Shift" and press "U" if you're on the desktop).
Locate "coreaudiod" under "All Processes"
Right click it and click on "Quit"
After several seconds, "coreaudiod" will restart on it's own and your speakers will return to normal.
I tested this by restarting to see if it was a fluke workaround. Then I turned it off and waited a day (I had things to do so the waiting a day was easy lol). Turned it on, it was fine. I put it on sleep mode, waited 10 mins. and took it off of sleep mode. It was fine. Everything went back to normal for me.
Rattling sound is a concern for me as ths not normal, I would back up eveything, as this could br a HDD on the way out, and you want to save your data.
Also, you can try a a Pram reset:
If you have a removable battery, power doen your MBP, disconnected the power adapter, remone the battery, hold the power button down for 10 seconds, reinstall battery and mag safe and booy up.
If you have a MBP that has a non removable battery, follow the folling instructios.
Power off MBP, power it back on, holding the following keys: option, command,P,R, (no commas), press these key immediatly before the start up chime ringd, continue you to hold therse keys till you hear the start up chime ring ring 2 timess amd release.
Reboot
Since you had the battery replaced, you might want to try an SMC reset if non of the above offers any help. Power down MBP, power back up, hold the following keys before the star up chime. Left key shift,control, option, contine to hold these keys till the gear stops spinning.
Rebot.
All the best, I hoe this helps.
Let me know if this worked for you

Message not working in MacBook Pro

Message is in my apps, but I cannot get it to signin. It works OK on my iPhone, iPad, a MiniMac and another MacBookPro. It is allowed in security incoming settings. How can I get this to start working on this MacBook PRO 15"?

Launch the Console application in any of the following ways:
☞ Enter the first few letters of its name into a Spotlight search. Select it in the results (it should be at the top.)
☞ In the Finder, select Go ▹ Utilities from the menu bar, or press the key combination shift-command-U. The application is in the folder that opens.
☞ Open LaunchPad. Click Utilities, then Console in the icon grid.
Make sure the title of the Console window is All Messages. If it isn't, select All Messages from the SYSTEM LOG QUERIES menu on the left. If you don't see that menu, select
View ▹ Show Log List
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Click the Clear Display icon in the toolbar. Then try the action that you're having trouble with again. Select any messages that appear in the Console window. Copy them to the Clipboard by pressing the key combination command-C. Paste into a reply to this message (command-V).
When posting a log extract, be selective. In most cases, a few dozen lines are more than enough.
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I have a Macbook Pro 15in mid 2014 and I upgraded to Yosemite and iMessage worked but now it doesn't (along with wifi but thats another issue). It works on my iPhone 5s but not my macbook pro. Ive tried to reset keychains and do a clean install of Yosemite and that didn't work either. does anyone know how to fix it.

Hi,
Earlier there were two possibilities:-
Either something about the app and it's link to the servers was amiss...
Or it was something about the set up within the Mac User Account you were using everyday.
As the same info worked in the "new" Mac User account it points to the issue being in the regular Mac User account.
This is where it could get tricky; trying to find out what that particular thing is.
It could be as simple as a typo in the Apple ID or the password.
It could be that the Contacts App > Card Menu > My Card does not list your details.
As the app seems to be saying it cannot deliver iMessages we have to presume there is something about how it is logging into the server.
It could be that the iMessages server can't find where to deliver it to,
It could be there is a subtle issue about how you are logged in that is causing the issue.
I would check the DNS Settings in System Preferences > Network > Advanced Button > DNS tab
This should show the DNS servers from your ISP in greyed out form (they are being read from your routing device)
Sometimes though it only lists the IP of the router (192.168.x.x or 10.x.x.x)
It may pay to add a Public DNS server or two http://pcsupport.about.com/od/tipstricks/a/free-public-dns-servers.htm
If that does not work open Finder window then use the Go Menu whilst holding down the ALT key and select the Library item that appear in the list.
Navigate to Preferences.
Find com.apple.imessages.bag.plist and drag it to the Trash and then restart the app.
The .plist will be recreated but it will force the app to completely refresh the Login to the iMessages servers.
Crazygamer101 is right in that it is not a good idea to Delete an Mac User account until you have tried everything and moved what is salvageable.
7:47 pm Saturday; November 8, 2014
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 G4/1GhzDual MDD (Leopard 10.5.8)
 MacBookPro 2Gb (Snow Leopard 10.6.8)
 Mac OS X (10.6.8),
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[SOLVED] SATA not working on Macbook Pro 7.1, (kernel bug 15923)

I ran into this bug while trying to install Arch as a single-os install on my new 13'' Macbook Pro 7.1:
https://bugzilla.kernel.org/show_bug.cgi?id=15923
It appears there is a problem with the current kernel and the MCP89 chipset so SATA is not recognized. There is a patch out but it still leaves ahci disabled and therefore NCQ causing slow performing harddisks.
I am wondering what to do. I've never done any kernel patching.
- use an SSD instead of a harddisk because of the lack of NCQ?
- and somehow create a net install with a patched current kernel (and how)?
- or wait for the patch to reach the next version of the Arch install image (How long would that take)?
- perform the install on my other notebook? Would that interfere with EFI partition already on it?
questions questions...
Last edited by rwd (2010-09-06 10:33:47)

atcq wrote:it worked, as far as kernel bug 15923 is concerned, but after booting into the newly installed system i don't have a working keyboard. usbinput is set in HOOKS.
any suggestions?
I know very little about kernel and booting stuff, but this is how I made booting work from memory, in case it helps someone:
- I installed using the archboot cd, using the whole harddisk and chose a MBR partition table (not GPT)
- booted from the archboot cd once more but only did the 'prepare harddisk' part where I only chose the mount points, and exited the menu to shell
- edited /tmp/install/etc/mkinitcpio.conf (on the mounted harddisk) as described above
- I followed the instructions here http://wiki.archlinux.org/index.php/Kernel_Panics for chrooting:
mount -t proc none /tmp/install/proc
mount -t sysfs none /tmp/install/sys
mount --bind /dev /tmp/install/dev
chroot /tmp/install
mkinitcpio -g /boot/kernel26.img
exit
sync
reboot
I also chose ext4 for all my partitions. So possibly with a different filesystem the according kernelmodule must be used. I tried the same procedure with a OCZ Vertex 2 ssd by the way but that one fails to boot with errors that are very similar to what's in this bug description.
Some other Macbook Pro 7.1 related things not mentioned in the wiki:
- Sound:
worked after putting this in /etc/modprobe.d/modprobe.conf:
options snd_hda_intel model=mbp55
and blacklisting OSS related modules in /etc/rc.conf:
MODULES=(!snd_pcm_oss !snd_mixer_oss !snd_seq_oss pcspkr hid_apple libphy tg3 snd-hwdep snd-page-alloc snd-pcm snd-timer snd snd-hda-codec snd-hda-intel soundcore)
- Backlight and keyboard leds:
install nvidia-bl ( mbp-nvidia-blg doesn't seem to work) from the AUR and follow the instructions in the install messages. Manually adjusting is now possible. For example:
# echo 22000 > /sys/class/backlight/nvidia_backlight/brightness
# echo 44000 > /sys/class/backlight/nvidia_backlight/brightness
# echo 50 > /sys/class/leds/smc::kbd_backlight/brightness
# echo 255 > /sys/class/leds/smc::kbd_backlight/brightness
I couldn't get the 'pommed' package to work, which is supposed to handle all the media keys. With 'xev' I verified that the keys were active without needing any mapping using 'xmodmap'. But since they weren't bound to any particular action I cobbled together a few scripts. They're crude so maybe someone with some actual bash skills can clean these up.
to allow non-root write access to the backlight and keyboard led devices I put this in in /etc/rc.local:
chmod go+w /sys/class/backlight/nvidia_backlight/brightness
chmod go+w /sys/class/leds/smc::kbd_backlight/brightness
In my desktopenvironment I bound the corresponding media keys to these scripts with 'up', 'down' or 'mute' as arguments
mbp_keyboard_led.sh:
#!/bin/bash
LIGHTLEVEL=$(cat /sys/class/leds/smc::kbd_backlight/brightness)
LEVELDIFFERENCE=15
MAXVALUE=255
MINVALUE=0
if [ $LIGHTLEVEL -ge $MINVALUE ] && [ $LIGHTLEVEL -le $MAXVALUE ]
then
TOTAL=`expr $MAXVALUE`
case $1 in
up)
TOTAL=`expr $LIGHTLEVEL + $LEVELDIFFERENCE`;;
down)
TOTAL=`expr $LIGHTLEVEL - $LEVELDIFFERENCE`;;
esac
if [ $TOTAL -ge $MINVALUE ] && [ $TOTAL -le $MAXVALUE ]
then
echo $TOTAL > /sys/class/leds/smc::kbd_backlight/brightness
notify-send -i gtk-dialog-info.png -t 1000 "Keyboard led brightness:" "$TOTAL"
else
notify-send -i gtk-dialog-info.png -t 1000 "Keyboard led brightness:" "maximum"
echo "New value out of range: $TOTAL";
fi
else
echo 'System light level out of min/max range (Hardware might not be matching script)';
fi
mbp_lcd_backlight.sh:
#!/bin/bash
LIGHTLEVEL=$(cat /sys/class/backlight/nvidia_backlight/brightness)
LEVELDIFFERENCE=400
MAXVALUE=44000
MINVALUE=0
if [ $LIGHTLEVEL -ge $MINVALUE ] && [ $LIGHTLEVEL -le $MAXVALUE ]
then
TOTAL=`expr $MAXVALUE`
case $1 in
up)
TOTAL=`expr $LIGHTLEVEL + $LEVELDIFFERENCE`;;
down)
TOTAL=`expr $LIGHTLEVEL - $LEVELDIFFERENCE`;;
esac
if [ $TOTAL -ge $MINVALUE ] && [ $TOTAL -le $MAXVALUE ]
then
echo $TOTAL > /sys/class/backlight/nvidia_backlight/brightness
notify-send -i gtk-dialog-info.png -t 1000 "Screen brightness:" "$TOTAL"
else
notify-send -i gtk-dialog-info.png -t 1000 "Screen brightness:" "maximum"
echo "New value out of range: $TOTAL";
fi
else
echo 'System light level out of min/max range (Hardware might not be matching script)';
fi
mbp_sound_volume.sh:
#!/bin/bash
SOUNDLEVEL=`amixer get Master | grep dB | sed 's/.*\[$[0-9]\{1,3\}$\%\].*/\1/'`
MUTED=`amixer get Master | grep dB | sed 's/.*\[$[a-z]\{2,3\}$\].*/\1/'`
MINVALUE=0
MAXVALUE=96
LEVELDIFFERENCE=5
case $1 in
up)
if [ $SOUNDLEVEL -le $MAXVALUE ]
then
amixer set Master "$LEVELDIFFERENCE+" unmute
fi;;
down)
if [ $SOUNDLEVEL -ge $MINVALUE ]
then
amixer set Master "$LEVELDIFFERENCE-" unmute
fi;;
mute)
if [ "$MUTED" = on ]
then
amixer set Master mute
notify-send -i gtk-dialog-info.png -t 1000 "Master sound volume:" "muted"
exit 0
else
amixer set Master unmute
fi;;
esac
SOUNDLEVEL=`amixer get Master | grep dB | sed 's/.*\[$[0-9]\{1,3\}$\%\].*/\1/'`
notify-send -i gtk-dialog-info.png -t 1000 "Master sound volume:" "$SOUNDLEVEL %"
Last edited by rwd (2010-10-08 13:19:10)

My Y, U, I, O, P keys stop working 2012 MacBook Pro

Hi there. I'm having a very frustrating time with a MacBook Pro. After about 20-25 minutes use, the Y, U, I, O, P keys become very unresponsive and then after about 30 minutes they do not work at all.
I then have to power down the MacBook for an hour or so before they will start working again.
Can anybody suggest how I can fix this issue?
Lee

"It does not seem to be hardware related, but seems to be associated with the software and auto correction or something like that. "
So see if you can go to an earlier OS or Time Machine backup prior to the update.
Otherwise here's an analysis I did of a keyboard failure of those exact keys.
Here's a picture of the traces on the upper membrane which is why it's a mirror image.
You can see how all the keys are interconnected such that a failure of the "E, R, T, Y" trace would cause the entire set of keys to go down.
The interconnecting trace is about .5 mm wide so the tiniest anything will cause problems.
Here's a picture of corrosion on a trace that was causing an intermittent problem:
and here's a very enlarged of the contractor area of an "S" key that was driving me nuts. It would automatically add an "s" at random times. Sometimes it would just start typing "sssssss" while the curser was just parked on a line.
The tiny hair was what was causing the problem. It would take closer examination to determine if it was a metal fragment or an ordinary hair. (We have a cat.)
I would need a microscope stage and a nano probe to determine if it was resistive (conductive) or not.

AOL mail will not work on MacBook Pro, but works on iMac

My wife has attempted to check her aol mail account online, through Safari, and every message that she opens appears as "garbage." I recently installed Snow Leopard on both of our computers. AOL mail works on my iMac, but not her Macbook Pro. Honestly, among other issues, I'm a little disappointed with Snow Leopard. Leopard was released without problems for either of us.

Did you ever find out what the problem is???

External Display not working with MacBook Pro 13" (early 2011)

I just bought the current MacBook Pro 13" (i7 processor). My external display (Benq 20"W, 1600x1050) always says "No Signal Detected!". I've tried it with a DVI-Adapter (Griffin Video Display Converter) and with a VGA-Adapter (LMP Mini DisplayPort-VGA-Adapter). With lower resolution I once got a picture (but with weird lines). On my old MacBook (white, 2.16 Ghz) there was never a problem with this display (also OS X 10.6.6). Who can help?

Check this post if you want more info:
http://discussions.apple.com/thread.jspa?threadID=2774718
The gist is that DVI is currently very iffy through Thunderbolt. Mini display -> mini display OR mini display -> HDMI should work fine. It's most likely not your adapter itself but the fact that it's DVI.
If you can, get a mini display -> HDMI adapter and try that (assuming your external has HDMI).
I should hear back tomorrow or Monday from apple engineers with more specific info about this issue and I will update then.
BTW- DVI anywhere in the chain will make things fail. Mini Display -> DVI and a DVI/HDMI cable won't work with any reliability (I've tested it on three completely different monitors).

Nine key not working on macbook pro 2008

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