No Sata Led activity

Helo:
I have a Maxtor 160gb 8Mb sata....
I can't make sata activity led to work...it works fine....with PATA drives...but no with SATA?
Is see some people have the same mobo ans sata drive...and the led is working fine....
Do u have an idea?

Quote
I notice that my self and had tried what Raven_ suggested ( o&o led) but I'm happy now with out the led I don't need it any how
that i cant live with.
i destroyed a harddrive once when i rebooted and it started to read/write at the same moment.
when i use my addon ide controller card i use the power led and connect to that card to se activity.
i dont know if it can be found on new harddrives but i have seen alot if older harddrives where you can connect a led.
also some harddrives has a led onboard that shows activity

Similar Messages

KT8 Neo.......Led Activity does not work with SATA drives

Is this another MSI Flop.
Does anybody know if the HD led works when using SATA drives connected to the Via controller on the K8T Neo board?
I checked the case led and it works fine. It is not burnt out.
I also have the K7N2 Delta board and the HD led does not work on that board either when using SATA hard drives. I was told the led connecter was never wired to detect activity for the SATA drives only for IDE. A bios upgrade would never fix it.
I just setup K8T Neo and other than the HD Led not working the board seems to be pretty stable.

The only led activity I get is when the board is first powered on and I just recently noticed when I play a DVD. The led seems to flicker when the dvd is playing.
Other than that I see no led activity with 1 or 2 SATA drives connected to the VIA controller.
Can someone confirm that it either works or it doesn't work.
I keep reading all these posts and some say it works and some say it don't.
Unless their is a new revision of the KT8 Neo and everybody is connecting their led to the HDD Led pins on JFP1 (Page 2-19 in the manual) they all should either work or they all should not workl. From what I gather their is no new revision of the board and only one Bios v1.1.
It also seems their was some confusion on what connector people were connecting thier led to on the motherboard. From what I read on page 2-19 in the manual thier is only one choice on JFP1 (Top row, pins 1 & 3).

Any idea to retrieve datas when no red LED activity?

Hey guys!
My Z10 STL-100 2 don't show any sign of activity even plugged to OEM charger (with or without battery / SIM / SD card...)
Tips and "recipes" found in threads like here and here don't work in this case.
My retailler has just been contacted cause my device is still covered by warranty but I'm affraid to loose datas and a way to back them up would be welcome if you guys have any idea.
Here is what happened:
Z10 was 100% charged and disconnected from charger just before sleeping
about 8 hours later the device is found switched off
no way to turn it on with Power button
Noticeable facts before incident
BBM was updated 1 or 2 days before event, and seems a bit power drainable
found 1 or twice the device restarting on its own
after my last call using the headset, the device feels quite hot to me, but I didn't noticed actually
What has been tested :
combination of [Power/Vol+/- ] buttons
removed SD card / SIM card / Battery
inserting battery/plugin to charger holding power button
trying other type of chargers (including Playbook charger)
plugged to oem charger overnight
removed battery for at least 4 hours
connected to desktop usb port for 3 hours
not detected by BB Link
no sign of device using Linux "lsusb" command
battery tested with voltmetter : about 4.3V
And Led is desperatly without activity.
So once again guys, if you have any idea....
Solved!
Go to Solution.

You got me... that's what I would have done as well, much more documented that I would have!
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NF750-G55 won't power up, almost no APS LEDs activity

Hi there,
Just purchased a brand-new NF750-G55 mobo and a Phenom II X3 720.
Installed mobo, cpu, stock heatsink and thermal compound, ram, psu and monitor only. Everything is powering up properly, shutting down, plugging everything in the case, with drives, gfx card... Power-on the computer with no problem, start a Win7 installation, and I leave when Windows disk is copying data.
When I come back a half an hour later, the computer is off. Pushing the on/off button leads to the power led to blink every second without stopping until I unplug the power cable.
Checking mobo, when I push the power-on button, the 1st of the 4 APS LEDs lights blue for half a sec and instantly powers off. Then nothing will even happen, even when pushing the power button again. Have to power off/unplug the psu and power back on to see the same thing happening.
Switched ram, psu, removed everything but cpu and heatsink (actually removed the cpu, cleaned it, applied thermal compount again...)...and ultimately, removed mobo from the case, nothing will work. The power button on the mobo lights up but won't power on the computer, and the heatsink won't even start working.
With I had a spare AMx mobo and a spare CPU and heatsink, but it's not the case, so I can't cross test...
Removing the cmos battery didn't help either...
Also, no beeps at all. And CPU looks perfectly fine, no bent pins, and put and removed from socket without any difficulty.
So, what do you guys think?
Thx!
edit: seen on another topic:
Quote from: dcrwton on 29-July-11, 05:46:45
I found it on standby with the power LED flashing but it would not restart. Just the blue LEDs for <0.5 secs. I even reset the BIOS.
Could there be an Electrical Overstress on mboard damaging CPU?
Quote from: Bas on 29-July-11, 18:18:40
Could be 2 things: 1 PSU underpowered or broken (or both)...2 CPU overheating (something wrong with the heatspreader of cooler).
The blinking led shows it did an emergency shutdown to prevent damage.
I already tried with 4 different PSUs, Antec, CM, Corsair and OCZ, from 450 to 600W. All had the exact same behavior. So what is this freaking emergency shutdown caused by? Tried with Kingston and Patriot ram, so the only parts that haven't been cross tested are the mobo, the cpu and the heatsink...but again, it worked well for half an hour!

Quote from: Bas on 07-November-11, 17:59:19
I have seen thousands of boards myself, but can still count the bad ones on two hands.
(if you forget the bad-desinged ones, but those show up in the forum in big numbers, like the last Intel 67 series before B3)
Me too, 2 bad boards in a year probably makes 2011 the worst year since I built my first computer back in '98. And unfortunately, these two boards are the same brand...
Quote from: Fredrik on 07-November-11, 22:08:19
It worked till you put it in the case. User related. Probably a stand-off too many and/or motherboard under-side got scratched in the procedure.
nope...check my writing again: worked for 10min out of the case, then for an hour into the case. THEN it stopped working.

Inhibit output per axis is always active, even if i KILL the axis in max

Hi,
I'm using pci-7344 with UMI-7774 and 3'rd party servo drive.
everything works fine but the inhibit output signal on the axis,
it is always ON and never changes state even when i press "Kill" the axis in MAX.
I know that the inhibit output per axis on the UMI (wich ia named "Enable" in the UMI manual) is a combination logic
of some signals in the umi, for example: if the Fault signal is asserted then the "Enable" signal is asserted also.
in order to debug the problem, i set the other signals that affect the "Enable" signal to value that i can be sure
that will not affect the "Enable" signal, i do that so i can be sure that when i press KILL and Halt in MAX, the Enable sould be toggle off/on.
The "Fault" input signal per axis on the UMI (User-supplied external Fault input (per axis)): i set the jumper in the UMI to "Active low", and connect the Fault+, Fault- to always be high, so the UMI
always "think" that there is no errors from the servo drive.
i made the wiring for the "fault on the UMI as described in :
Figure 3-8. Example of Wiring a High-Side Switch to the Fault Input , page 3-10 in the UMI manual.
Same thing i do for the "Inhibit All" signal on the "Global Stop" connector on the UMI , as described here:Same for the Shutdown on this global stop connector.
Now, i think, i can be sure that when pressing KILL the Enable sugnal need to change its state, nothing happened....
i notice these thing: measuring the volt between the "Enable" pin on the axis
and the Ciso, i get always +24VDC. is that should be 5V... ?
there is a lot of names for the same signal that makes the debugging more difficult (Enable, INOUT1, INALL, inhibit output, per axis, etc...)
P.S. i also can see any LED in the UMI that is Lit, only the "Power V , Viso" LED is Lit.
Please someone make this issue clear for all, cause i see a lot of posts in the forum of people who ask about
the inhibit output per axis or in its other name "Enable" signal that output from the UMI per axis.
Thanks
MotiM
Attachments:
Knowledgebase_list_and_forum_posts_about_INHIBIT_OUT.html.txt ‏4 KB

Hello Eric,
Thank you for your reply, i'm trying to solve this for long time.
I follow your instructions about the switched on the UMI and setting the parameters in MAX, re-initilized and .. the problem is still there...
These is the configuration i made, i hope that something here will help you to help me solving this problem:
1.  I'm using only one Axis on the UMI, so i set in mac all other axis to disable in the Axis Configuration tab.
2. The Axis that i'm using (Axis4) configured in this way :
     in "Motion I/O Settings" tab of this axis:
     Forward, Reverse,Home Limit switches is all "Enabled" and "Active High Polarity"
     Software Limit setting (Forward and Reverse) : Disabled
     Inhibit Output setting :     "Enabled" and "Active High Polarity"
     Inhibit Input setting : is grayed, cant set its parameter (i see (in the grayed) that its set to : Disabled)
3. In UMI-7774:
     All the Axis that i dont use and set in MAX to Disabled, their switches in the UMI is "Active Low"
     i dont use them, and i tink its not relevant for which value they set, but this is the facts for troubleshoot this problem.
    The Axis that i'm using: Axis4 , the switches on the UMI board is set to :
     FAULT       : Active Low
     ENABLE    : Active High
     LIMIT LED : Active Low
     On the UMI, only the Power V, Viso LED are Lit, all other LED in the umi:
      Inhibit All, Interlock, and each axis Leds (Disabled,Fault,Home,Fwd,Rev) are all not Lit .
4. i connect 9-Pin cable to the "Global Stop" on the UMI, so i can set the "Inhibit All" , "Shutdown" input signals ,
     which are "user supplied" input signals. they are now connected directly to the C-Iso,
     cause i want them not affect the "Enable" signal on the Axis that i'm using (i hope that connectng them to the Ciso is the
     right decision, cause i dont know where to set their polarities..if i need to..??? )
5. The "Fault" signal for the axis that i'm using (Fault+, Fault-) is connected to Viso and Ciso, later when i know that the Enable signal is
     working, i'll connect these (Fault+, Fault-) to the Alarm signal from the Servo Drive.
     currently i connect them diectly to Viso and Ciso, again, cause i want them not affect the "Enable" signal on the Axis that i'm using.
i think that comletes the setting according to the UMI user manual, page 3-11...
The thing that i dont understand here is that the manual is writtent that the "Controller Axis Inhibit Out (per axis)"
is affect the "Enable" signal, and i though that the "Enable" signal is itself the "Inhibit Out (per axis)"
so, i'm sure measing something here...
Thanks for helping with this, i'm really on the last configuration of the servo, cause everything else
is working good, encoder, Dir, Puls, commands to the servo using MAX 1D interactive, and LabView programs all working well,
p.s. now i;m manualy give input for the servo on signal , i want that the "Enable" will do this job..
Thanks
MotiM

X4270 M24 HDD led AMBER - needs maintenance

Hi,
I hope one of you can help me with an X4270 storage issue.
I am busy installing OS and application on a X4270 with 24 LSI disks and 2 of the disks have the amber "needs maintenance" led activated so I cannot see
these disks in the Solaris 10 "format" command.
Issue happened after we ejected and re-inserted these disks (disks should be hot-swappable), I am pretty sure that the disks are fine but cannot manage to
get them back into operation.
Any help and suggestions are more than welcome, thanks a lot in advance.

Hi.
x4270 - it's general server, not storage.
Docs' about server:
http://docs.oracle.com/cd/E19245-01/index.html
This server can content different raid card for support disk.
Read http://docs.oracle.com/cd/E19245-01/820-6350-16/z400016d9112.html#z40003a21330433
You need identify type insalled raid-controller and use corresponded way for resolve this issue.
It's look like you have: SG-XPCIESAS-R-INT-Z, Adaptec/Intel-based
You can install software for manage this controller or use BIOS based utility for understand status of disks and clear faulted state.
Regards.

G5 dual 2.7 powers on but no boot chime, video, keyboard activity

Hello:
I have a Power Mac G5 dual 2.7 from late 2005 w/ 2 GB RAM and no hard drive. Clearly, I won't be able to boot without a system. I bought it without the hard drive, thinking I'd install my own but test with a universal Tiger disk first.
The problem I have is that after I turn the power on, the fans go and the manufacturing LEDs (the two red LEDs indicating that the plastic cover is off and that the optical inputs are present) go on, but nothing else. The keyboard shows no activity, and I can't open the DVD-RW with the open button. No video comes up. I've tried resetting the PMU. The fans start slow, but rev up after a cople of minutes. The logic board shows no diagnostic LED activity, and other than white when I press on or off the power button, no activity from the LED above the power button. I tried reseating the video card and using a new PRAM battery.
Can anyone help me with this?
Thanks!
Thanks! MZ

I can't open the DVD-RW with the open button.
Either try holding the Mouse button down while powering on, or slide the door down and use a paper clip in the tiny hole there to force open it.
Did you replace plastic cover & close it up?

Z60t, no display on startup, no working LED's except side one and bluetooth, no loading of OS.

Hi all,
Sorry to make my first post a question, just got a really tricky question and navigating the lenovo website doesn't easily provide me with a support email/field.
I have used this laptop without fault for approx. 2 years, but it no longer boots. When the power on button is pressed, no lights other than bluetooth led is active. There is also a green led active by the side of the optical drive (near the rear USB port). The sound of the hard drive being active (spinning) can be heard, as well as occasional access. The screen only shows the IBM logo briefly (bottom left, approx 3cm/30mm high font) and then becomes blank. When plugged into an external monitor, there is no picture. Attempts to access the BIOS (via the F1 key at boot-up) are unsuccessful as the screen is too dim to view.
I look forward to any suggestions. It's pretty annoying if I can't repair/diagnose my own laptop when I work in an IT department!
Cheers,
Chris
IBM ThinkPad Z60t - Type 2511-EJG
Originates from Singapore

@christillis:
Let's try one last thing here, before I start sounding like the voice of doom and gloom:
Remove the battery, hard and media drives, unplug the AC adapter. Press the "power" button 10 times in a row, holding it down for 10 seconds each time, and 30 seconds the last time around.
Plug the AC adapter back and try to power on.
Good luck and let us know.
Cheers,
George
In daily use: R60F, R500F, T61, T410
Collecting dust: T60
Enjoying retirement: A31p, T42p,
Non-ThinkPads: Panasonic CF-31 & CF-52, HP 8760W
Starting Thursday, 08/14/2014 I'll be away from the forums until further notice. Please do NOT send private messages since I won't be able to read them. Thank you.

My Unofficial K8t Neo Guide

Disclaimer: You try any and all troubleshooting at YOUR OWN RISK!!
Here is my unofficial guide to the K8t Neo fisr2 If you Like It give it a thumbs up so it will stick out. I will warn you it is long and I will edit off and on.
to add as needed.
first I'll start off with components,
CASE..you will need an atx case with good cooling a few extra fans like a blowhole at the top can help cooling, also bundle cables and power leads
so that they don't interfere with airflow.
MOTHERBOARD,...This is based on the K8TNEO series, when you attach it to your case make sure that is is mounted to risers to keep it from contacting case, they are usually small brass pins, also make sure that all the mounting screw are secure and in place, this will prevent the PCB from flexing and cracking as you install components, there should be around 9 or so screws, that usually go into the riser pins or raised case mounting points,don't forget to use those fiber or plastic insulated washers. These should be the only case contact point to the mobo other then the back plate with all the usb, net jacks etc..
Also use all of the mount points you can..if not you can crack mobo putting in cards etc...
CPU...Athlon64 processor2800+, 3000+, 3200+, or a 3400+, all 754 pin chips...k8neo CAN NOT USE FX chips or Opterons. 3200,&3000 are basically the same chip, same clockspeed of 2.0 ghz but the l2 cache is different 3200 1mb...3000 512k, you may not notice the difference in many applications but will see 2~10% diff in benchmark testing, the 3000 is usually about $75 cheaper
the 2800 is a newer model an a good way to get into 64bit without high cost.
PSU.... one of the most overlooked and most important component,
that old 300 watter you have from your old duron 800 don't even try.PSU's have caused a lot of trouble with a64 systems, they use a lot of power Get a good name brand psu if you can, and make sure it is at least 400 watts and has at the minimum of 20a on 12v, also look at combined total wattage
the psu must have a 20 pin connector and a 4 Pin( Square) Connector, and there is Only 1, Called the+12V 4 Pin Processor Connector.
some of the recommended brands are enermax,and antec.
Here is the reason most problems are the psu
amd64 uses 12v power, Intel chips used a lot of 5v power.
so until now most big psu's pushed 5 v not 12v
almost everything in your computer uses 12v except ram (3.3V)
AMD 64 and motherboard =12a @12V
so your already at 12A with no fan,s no hd, no CD,no DVD ,no mobo chip-set , no mem, no sound..etc
so what happens is your mem gets starved for power and then gives out errors,in your data, which = corrupt sata,or it fails to post. .
MEMMORY...Another big trouble spot,not just with the MSI board but with Via chip-set, and or the A64 memory controller.
DDR non ecc- single channel 400 is baseline although slower chips also work, The CPU's memory unit only supports 4 banks total so in order to use three sockets at least two of the memory sticks have to be 1 bank,.one bank or two bank chips look similar so check specs, dual bank chips usually have chips on the back as well. mem should match type and speed. if you run into problems try going into bios and limiting ram to 333.mem should match type and speed.
(edited out till i find more info [STRIKEOUT] if using two mem sticks it is best to use slots 1 and 3,[/STRIKEOUT])
edit :ok tiresmoke just replied so have a look. "One thing that often does not get addressed. I had a couple Blue Screens early on. Here is how I fixed it. I run my RAM in sockets 1 and 3. 1 and 2 gave a little instability.Yes I decided to keep mine in slot 1/3 but I did test in 1/2 since I changed Bios. Typically slot 1/3 can slow you down but it did not with mine so best to say that difference RAM will give different symptoms. Try combinations to find what works best for you."
LOL Keep in mind that Jocko uses 3 sticks of dual bank RAM and according to AMD they only support 4 banks total. Jocko has 6 so you do the math.
you can check msi's website for compatible ram, but be careful it can be confusing,
they list by part numbers,
but some known configurations that work are:
I would stay away from corsair xms mem right now many people have problems.
corsair and kingston owners may want to look here
AMD 3000+ systems...
BIOS 1.2
2 x 512 - Corsair CMX DDR400 @2-3-2-5
2 x 512 - Corsair Twin Pro DDR400 @ 2-3-2-6
2 x 512 - Corsair Value Select DDR400 @ defaults
1 x 512 - Geil Golden Dragon DDR400 @ 2-3-3-6 (2.7V)
2 x 512 - Hynix DDR400 @ 2-3-3-6
2 x 512 - Kingmax DDR433 @ 2.5-3-3-6
2 x 512 - Kingston DDR400 @ 3-3-3-8
1 x 512 - Kingston HyperX DDR400 @ (defaults?)
1 x 512 - Kingston ValueRam (KVR400X64C3A) DDR400? @ (Defaults?)
2 x 512 - Muskin Level 1 DDR400 @ 2-3-2-6
2 x 512 - Muskin Level 2 DDR433 @ (defaults?)
2 x 256 + 1 x 512 - Muskin Basic DDR400 @ 2.5-3-3-8
1 x 1024 - OCZ EL DDR400 @ 2-3-2-6
BIOS 1.3b2
2 x 512 OCZ EL DDR433 @ 2-3-3-7
AMD 3200+ systems...
BIOS 1.1
2 x 512 - Mushkin Level 1 Black DDR433 @ 2.5-3-3-6
BIOS 1.2
2 x 512 - Apacer DDR400 @ 3-4-4-8 (2.5v)
2 x 512 - Corsair Twin X DDR400 @ 2-3-2-6
1 x 1024 - Corsair TwinX DDR400 @ 2-3-2-6
2 x 512 - Crucial DDR400 @ defaults
2 x 512 - Elixer OEM DDR400 @ defaults
1 x 1024 - GeIL GoldenDragon DDR400? @ defaults
2 x 512 - Geil Value Series 512MB DDR 2.5-3-3-6
2 x 512 - Hynix DDR400 @ 2-3-3-6
2 x 512 - Kingston HyperX KX DDR433 @ 2-3-3-8
2 x 512 - Kingston HyperX DDR400 @ (defaults?)
2 x 512 - Kingston HyperX DDR400 @ 2.5-3-3-8
2 x 512 - Mushkin Level 2 DDR400 @ 2-2-2-5 (2.75V)
2 x 256 - Mushkin Level 2 DDR400 @ 2-2-2-5
2 x 256 + 1 x 512 - Muskin Basic DDR400 @ (defaults?)
2 x 512 - Twinx CLPRO DDR400 @ (defaults?)
2x512- Pny Verto DDR433 @defualts
AMD 3400+ systems...
BIOS 1.2
2 x 512 - Kingmax (MPXC22D-38KT3R) DDR400 @ defaults
2 x 512 - Mushkin Level 2 Black DDR433 @ 2-3-2-5
you may have to email you mem manufacturer and manually set timings and voltages to get your memory working.
HARD DRIVES......Here you have alot of choices, basically two categories, SATA and PATA(IDE). There are many brands and speeds, IDE drives come in different speeds, such as ata33, ata66, ata 100, ata 133 for hard drives, the 33,100,133, being theoretical maximum transfer rating MB/sec.
newer ata(IDE)hard drives are ata100 which is ultra 5, and ata133 ,ultra6 is ,
PIO mode is the standard data transfer mode without the ultra enhancements, the fastest being 16.66 mb/sec. ultra 2 is 33 mb/sec . So when i say my CD,DVD, and DVD are ultra 2 it means they transfer at a maximum of 33 mb/sec, and my Maxtor hardrives are ultra 6 and have a maximum transfer of133 mb/sec. my old zip100 transfers at a max of 16 mb/sec since its in pio mode. Note these are maximum speeds, my hardrive transfers more like 65 mb/sec sustained according to SIS Sandra.
That is why SATA 150 is such a big deal, vs say a Western digital ata100
SATA is a different interface all together and can transfers closer to its maximum
theoretical speed. BUT the pci bus itself is limited to 133 mb/sec so an add-on card
should never be able to reach over 133, regardless, of SCSI,IDE, or SATA
so on the k8t neo you have some choices. With the IDE you can use, IDE1,2, or 3
IDE1&2 are ata100. ) to attach use a 80pin round or flat cable, the first slot goes into the mobo, the middle connector is for a slave or should be left empty, use the end for master, or single drive. you must also setup jumpers for hd or cds.
The master is primary unit and the slave is secondary unit, for each channel.
Or use the Cable Select jumper and USUALLY the BIOS will select the drive for you.
IDE1 & 2 is ata100, or 133 depending on board if using for only 2 drives put them on different channels
...ie master on IDE 1, and master on IDE 2 . that way they will have maximum bandwidth. especially for disk to disk copies or burning
IDE3 RAID is ata133, or can be raid 0 or 1 by the promise chip. 0 being striped for performance,1 being mirrored for safety, mirror only protects hd from failure,not viruses,or corruption for that you need a backup or as i prefer a drive image program such as accronis trueimage..linux compatible.and Norton ghost.you will first have to enable the promise chip in the bios, then you have to load drivers by hitting F6 during windows installation, and insert floppy drive, yes you will need a floppy, at least for initial setup. If you want to set up raid you will have to do that first before loading windows,by hitting ctrl+F (read quick user's guide Serial ata raid, serial ata) only hd's can use ide3.If you don't have enough IDE slots you can add on pci card with one or two more headers for up to 4 more drives, I added a Maxtor ultra ata133, since i have 5 idehd's and 3 DVD/cds.
SATA, here you have two choices, use the Promise chip set or the Via. Either one or both can be set to raid0 or 1, see users guide to setup, You will also have to enable them first in bios, and F6 and load floppy drivers to use in windows install, or load drivers in windows if using an existing install. either chip-set can be set for raid, in the manual, opinions are that the Via is faster, but you wont have a HD LED activity indicator light, The promise will have a HD light, but is slightly slower.
Also note that SATAs don't OC as well as IDE hard drives, they can even crash and loose data.
always make a backup of your computer, and remember raid 1 does nothing for virus, or contaminated installs.
SOUND....Here you have a few choices, On board or Card, unfortunately not both, yet.(UPDATE Bios Version 1.5 and above will fix this)... If using a card there have been some issues with Audigy 1 cards, but there may be a cure in this threadhttps://forum-en.msi.com/index.php?threadid=46849&sid=( Moved to stickies) audigy2 and 2zs cards work fine as do turtle beach.
on-board sound is not as high definition and uses some CPU cycles, so a card might be advantageous to gamers.
REALTEK GIGABIT...Is the on-board Ethernet, you will need to load drivers once in windows, it has caused some problems booting, as it can be set to a boot device as well. you will get a message "failed to boot press any key."..then "ntdlr error"...to fix this you may need to hit the key combination during boot to set it up, it will bring you to a menu, you need to set boot order, i recommend setting it to bios, and you can adjust or disable message and time length it is displayed.
VIDEO CARDS- You should install an agp 8x directx9 video card for best performance. Ati has better directx support so is better for gaming, but Nvida has better OpenGL so if you want to do 3d in Linux, you have better luck with Nvida.
When you set up windows, install via 4-1 drivers first, then the video drivers, check video manufacturer's website for updated drivers. make sure any extra power leads are plugged in. In bios Agp should be fast write enabled, and
if you are using 1024 of ram aperture size to 256, but check 3dmark to see which setting is faster.
BIOS- NO BIOS INSTALLED This is a message that you see during boot up from the promise on-board raid saying that it found no drives attached to its SATA or IDE channels so it's not installed the BIOS.This IS NOT a problem or anything to worry about!
jumping Bios reset jumper, be careful, make sure power is off. jump it and return it to the original position. If you power on with jumper in reset position you can erase your bios...requiring a Return to Manufacturer Authorization(RMA)
I have had no problems using windows updating to the latest bios ,It cured some issues, such as firewire ports, sound blaster audigy1 troubles,tweaked temps displayed,and so on. but be sure to have a backup of original bios disk. I have heard new 1.8 beta bios cures Newcastle temp problems.
some good settings are.. SMART enabled this will warn you of hard disk failure,System bios cacheble and shadow ram are more for older computers and should be set to disable.boot to os2- disable...memory setting vary by card and some even need to be set manually so check with manufacturer or get familiar with cmos reset jumper.(just be sure to have power off)...plug and play os to disable(more of a win 98 thing) disable serials and parallel ports if you don't need them, as with on-board sound firewire etc. this is just a few pointers the rest is a more personal thing, but i have heard turbo setting causes problems and is best left to fast, and dynamic oc'ing is similar use at your own risk
USB keyboard don't forget to enable USB in the BIOS. This caused some problems when installing XP. Without USB enabled in BIOS when you come to the "Hit any key to proceed" the install will fail with the ntldr error
POWER SAVINGS...Having trouble getting fans or case lights to shut off on standby set to S3, then disable apm, and be sure to set a wakeup event..such as wake from usb, or keyboard command. I have agp boot disable, but depends on card.
Want to know more about bios, and what those settings are? click this link
http://www.rojakpot.com/(eb1mg5zatgcf5r55lv5no155)/default.aspx?location=9
CORE CENTER....Another personal choice, I like it and use it a lot, to increase and decrease fsb without going through bios. the NB fan sensor should read 0 unless you plug a fan onto it, personally i have an 80mm antec and it doesn't read it, but i tried a old CPU fan and it worked fine.
COOL AND QUIET Another personal choice, I don't use it because some people have had there CPUs power down in the middle of games, and such
(it goes down to 800 MHz) others had small bugs in there system that went away when they disabled it. But some like it and use it a lot. Good for energy savings.
want to get your boot time down
start by selecting OS drive as first in boot sequence, you can always change bios when you want to boot from floppy or CD(which isn't often).disable floppy drive seek
then clean out your startup folder under rt click explore start button.
try and get services set to auto down to about 25. defrag your hdrive routinely,
. ditch wall paper, and get rid of windows startup screen.(msconfig,boot.ini.and check noguiboot). keep your drivers updated
if you can find it you can use then try bootvis, but microsoft doesn't support it anymore.Programs ..some useful free utilities are listed below, check goggle, until i make links for them.
SiS Sandrahttp://www.sisoftware.net/, a good all around benchmark,burn in and, info display
3DMARK.http://www.futuremark.com/download/.Mostly a Video tester, good for checking OC though.
Microsoft Memory testerms memtester
+86memtest.http://www.memtest86.com/..and Prime95http://www.mersenne.org/freesoft.htmvery good mem testers, and tests for stability
spybot search and destroy, http://www.safer-networking.org/index.php?page=homeand
Lavasoft's ad-aware http://www.lavasoftusa.comgot to have for house cleaning.
atitool, http://atitool.ocfaq.com/oc ap for ati cards,click find max core let it go for 15min or so,then set back to default, and click find max mem...for 15min or so, and now you have the max you can set your video card too.(but set safety limits before manually setting)
[STRIKEOUT]mbm5 mbm5 link good alternative temp readings to corecenter.[/STRIKEOUT]
good program but discontinued.
OTHER USEFUL PROGRAMS
Norton utilities, good all around disk and OS utility
Norton Internet secuirity, or similar firewall and virus protector
Norton ghost, or other drive image software fantastic for backups
BF1942...lol just fun
HOME NETWORKING I will add this part because of additional posing of errors
dealing with USB Broadband routers...try using on board realtek or other Ethernet connection it will save your sanity.
well i have a real poor mans router setup for you
2 Ethernet slots, one for for broadband router and one to share.
if you only want one other computer, use a crossover cable, otherwise, use a hub or switch(better) and let Internet connection wizard and home networking on your machines work their magic,want a firewall download some software there are even, fairly decent free ones.the speed of the card isn't important because broadband still isn't over 10mb/sec yet, so blow the dust off that card in the closet and put it to work.or if your really brave or really cheap you can try to use the usb input from broadband, and on board ether, or firewire port, to link computers
Trouble shooting
for total no boot/post failure
I know you may know how to build a computer, and i know this is basic, so bear with me here, but at this point you have to do a methodical by the book check list.
revision
A: when you first install your motherboard make sure it does not contact case,
use all nine mounting points, make sure that your case either has built in risers, or use the small brass standoffs, and don't forget the fiber washers.
when you installed your CPU you:
1 ___you properly handle equipment so no static damage can occur, (properly grounded)
2____.you fully lift the CPU ziff socket arm up, orient the gold triangle marking arrow,pins and it easily dropped into socket, with no bent pins ,
3 ___ backer plate mounted carefully no missing pieces of the board flying off, ( i have seen people launch capacitors, and the like )
4 ____obviously you removed the plastic thermal pad cover, and heatsink was evenly locked down, and fully seated, and correctly plugged into mobo cpufan1.
and you fully removed old thermal pad/grease and applied new artic silver, or new heatsink with plastic on pad,you didn't reuse old paste or pad.
memory
5 _____memory stick(not sticks, at this point you just want to get it working, not full blast with a gig of ram etc)is fully seated and properly oriented in slot, and is 184 pin ddr non-registered , non ecc ram , and you have tried different non corsair, non twinmoss, brands that have been known to work. and/ or
tried to set manually mem speed/voltage for some models of corsair, twinmoss, and kingston)
6.____ plug in only power switch pins 6,8and power led to jfp1, pins 2,4 and they are turned correctly,
7. ____your new psu has the 20 pin and square 4 pin power connector plugged in to jpw1 turned right and fully seated. and has a bare min of 18a on 12v+ rail.
8 ____your video card is fully seated an locked down,also securely screwed in.
9 ____your floppy drive cable iss facing right way (pin1 is matched with red stripe)
10. ____you have ata cables for hd and CD set to master/slave or cs. with hard drive set as master, end of cable.
11 _____the power plugs are all fully seated, including psu rear plug,floppy ,hd, and CD.
12. _____keyboard(ps2) and mouse plugged in, monitor plugged into video card,
13 ______every thing is fully secured in case, side cover is off.
14 ______CMOS jumper is set 1,2 keep data, all usb stuff is unplugged, except for dbracket.
power it up, one beep, fans spin, in psu and CPU, and video card,
you get no bios found error,(promise adapter not finding satas..no worries)
or hit Del to go into bios, set boot order, and .......
.........your now at the end of the road, and it should by all means work,
now what i am after,
there are no bent pins, on CPU, you reapplied artic silver paste.
no loose wires,
properly applied heat sink with fan cooling,
you have tried different brands of known ,to work in an MSI k8tneo
ddr ram 1 stick at a tme.
you have tried different video cards, and in case of higher end card, the external molex power supply as plugged in,
you have tried different ata hard drives
you then have tried have set up your SATA drive correctly .
everything is securely plugged in ..fully seated and oriented the right way?
what are d-bracket error light, and any beep codes?
you have tried a different wall outlet, you have changed surge protectors,
you never hot plugged video cards, hd cables or power etc.
i know this redundant , and basic , it is not meant to be insulting , it is meant to be a checklist and rule out all basic errors and potential problems
if your mem bandwidth is slower then 3000..like 2400 this may help
Received from a user - Slow memory 1T Command fix
OK, here's what to do. Download the following ftp://ftp.vector.co.jp/pack/win95/hardware/other/wpcrs120.exe extract it, and run InstDD.exe. It'll ask to reboot, you don't need to do it right away, at least I didn't have to. Fire up WPCRSET.exe and do the following. Under startup, click on start, and under device, click enable. Now click add. The bus device and function will be 0,24, and 2. The register and data values will be the 93,08. There we have it! Enjoy everyone. I know I'm much happier now.
Here's a graphic to make it easier:
I will add more by edit, or post as needed but i should post now so it can be put to use.
I would like to Thank BAS,wonkaboy, Jocko, ethereal, Tiresmoke, Reilly, and the many others whose valued input helps solve problems.

Quote
amd 64=12a @12V
ati 9800=7.5~10.5a @12V (assuming 90~125 watts) a max load,
a 9600 ir nvida 5200 used far less power
so your already at 18a with no fan,s no hd, no cd,no dvd ,no mobo chipset , no mem, no sound..etc
If you exclude the motherboard, memory, etc like you did there, the amd 64 draws 7.2A @ 12V.
90~125W for an ATI 9800?! [irony]Are you working for a PSU manufacturer or what?[/irony] That's just absurd.
Go read this post to get a feel for the actual power consumption: https://forum-en.msi.com/index.php?postid=297061&sid=#post297061

Windows 8/8.1 slow boot (sudden onset)

Can anyone help with a slow boot problem on Windows 8/8.1, please? This concerns an Asus Zenbook. It's about 15 months old, and has always booted very quickly. Now, all of a sudden, it takes 5 minutes to get beyond the Windows logo screen.
I have tried all the standard things (clean boot, turn off Asus Fast Boot, etc), up to and including Resetting Windows. No good: on either Windows 8 or 8.1, it still takes 5 minutes. I have looked at the Windows System Log, and the delay occurs
right at the beginning of the Boot process. E.g., on the most recent boot I see as the first 3 entries (note, I'm in Europe, so dates are dd/mm/yyyy, and times are in 24-hour clock):
Information   10/03/2014 19:36:23   Kernel-General   12   None The operating system started at system time ‎2014‎-‎03‎-‎10T19:36:23.490074300Z.
Information   10/03/2014 19:36:23   Kernel-Boot   30   None The firmware reported boot metrics.
Information   10/03/2014 19:40:26   FilterManager   6   None File System Filter 'FileInfo' (6.3, ‎2013‎-‎08‎-‎22T11:38:45.000000000Z) has successfully loaded and registered with Filter Manager.
and you can see the 4-minute gap between the 2nd and 3rd entries. That's where the delay always comes, though sometimes the "reported boot metrics" doesn't show.
A little later in the procedure I do always get the following warning:
Warning   10/03/2014 19:40:31   Kernel-PnP   219   (212) The driver \Driver\WudfRd failed to load for the device ACPI\ACPI0008\2&daba3ff&2.
However because that comes later I can't see how it can be causing the problem, and I suspect it's an independent issue.
The machine appears to run normally once booted. It is protected against viruses by Windows Defender. I have looked at many posts on this and other fora on slow boot, and tried everything suggested, but none of the solutions have worked.
I have also looked widely on the web for problems with the File System Filter but nothing relevant comes up. The machine is under warranty, and could be sent back, but that would be a serious pain so if there is a solution I can implement I would much
prefer to do so. Thank you for looking at this.
There are no stupid rats, only misguided students

Hi Seglea,
I have exact the same issue as you have! The only difference is the time period the splash screen / logo screen with the dots spinning in a circle hangs / delays / freezes: exactly 120 seconds. You can set your watch to that delay. During these 120 seconds
nothing happens, no HDD LED activity, just nothing. Having passed the 120 s, the HDD LED begins to flicker and the logon screen is displayed 15 s later.
For the first look at it, I believe that it is a timeout problem. Usually Windows services retry to start after just these 120 seconds (e.g. Software Protection is configured this way, but in my case it does not start although configured as auto delayed).
I believe that the clue is to find out which service causes this delay.
My event logs are exactly the same as yours (without boot metrics), I do also have your WudRfd warning!
When started, the machine operates in a fast and stable way, as if nothing harmful had ever happened.
I do also have an SSD installed as only (system) disk.
In my case the startup screen of the BIOS also stays visible for more than 10 seconds, longer as on any other computer I have had before. I also had problems during installation of Windows 8.1. After the first reboot during OS installation the BIOS POST
screen restarted in an endless loop. I could solve that problem by setting the dedicated internal Graphics memory to less than 1024M, although I own 32 GBytes of RAM.
Nothing helped so far, I permuted my BIOS settings, even Fast Boot or Ultra Fast Boot did not help.
I have installed the latest drivers, I even tried to update the firmware of my SSD, but Intels toolbox told me, that my 3 years old 520 series SSD (never had seen any firmware updates before) was up-to date! Thus Windows 8.1 should handle with it. I also
did a quick analyzation with the tools, but everything was ok.
I just run chkdsk /r /f, as Zigzag proposed, but I had nearly the same problems as you have had:
Chkdsk got stuck at 10 % for 10 minutes then the machine rebooted with the 2 minutes delay and event logs do not show any Checkdisk entry.
In the Applications log, I noticed a igfxCUIService1.0.0.0 sourced entry as the first entry after reboot approximately 2 minutes after the end of the delay: The description of the event-ID "0" from the source "igfxCUIService1.0.0.0" could not be found. Event:
started/resumed which sounds ok. But it says that the component that caused this event, is not installed. (my translation from the German log)
The device manager shows that everything is fine and working well.
Here's my System constellation:
Gigabyte Z77X-UD3H, Intel Ivy Processor i7-3770 with 32 GBytes RAM, Intel 520 Series SSD via SATA 6G, BD Writer from LG via SATA 3G
BIOS F20e with UEFI and Secure Boot enabled (Windows 8.1 did install the GPT partitions):
Fast Boot enabled/disabled doesn't bother, Intel Virtualization Technoloy Enabled, VT-d enabled, OS Type Windows 8, Network Stack disabled, Secure Boot Mode standard, AHCI, USB 3.0 xHCI, Internal Graphics Size now 32M, (didn't bother up
to 512M, 1024M BIOS POST-screen endless loop), Intel Rapid Start Technology Enabled (disabled same effect) => I installed Windows 8.1 with "Intel SATA Preinstall driver For AHCI RAID Mode" in the F6 mode, as Intel recommended, Marvell ATA Controller
for eSATA (disabling same effect), ErP same effects on dis/enabled.
Windows 8.1 Pro German. Same effect when with or without LAN connected
I am thinking of Reinstalling Windows 8 with CSM mode without UEFI, but I believe that would not have any effect. Maybe I'll try another system disk for a reinstallation (HDD or other older SSD).
It would be nice if this problem could be solved by the community or by Microsoft, since I am not the only one!
Peter

External drive corruption after 10.8.5 update

Hi,
After the upgrade to 10.8.5. my Mini server at home, which had been running for months on end without a hitch prior to that, started having big problems.
I have a late 2012 Mini, with a Sharkoon 5 disk cabinet hooked up through USB3.0. The cabinet is filled with (top to bottom) 2 * 1 TB drives, 1 * 300GBdrive and 2 * 2 TB drive.
A few days after the update to 10.8.5 disk started disconnecting. Or rather, they would report normal sats in 'df' but they wouldn't show any files, neither in Finder nor with 'ls'. Disks 1, 3 and 4 looked mounted (albeit empty), but 2 and 5 were not. I noticed very high (red LED) activity on disk 2, disk 2 showed up corrupt in DiskUtility, so I took that one out. Now the rest came back, but disk 5 was corrupted and unusable. I reformatted, put disk 2 back and reformatted, restored and on I went.
Couple of days later: same thing. When the corruption occurs, after some time all other disks, although still there, become unusable as well. In the end you cannot even login to the iMacs that are using this server for OpenDirectory etc.
After the second time I suspected hardware failure on disk 2 and removed it from the cabinet. Formatted disk 5, restored, etc. But a few day later it happened all over again, this time with disk 5 seeming to be the culprit. I took that one out as well now, and I have to wait if the rest stays stable now.
In other words, it seems like the second of each set of identical disks is causing problems.
So my questions:
1) Has anyaone else seen anything similar?
2) Would changing out the disks, so that the identical sets are not adjacent, possibly fix this?
3) Would the latest fix release of 10.8.5 possibly fix this?
4) If all else fails, is there a way back to 10.8.4?
Any (other) ideas?
TIA,
Peter

Try running the combo update. It contains the latest update and will sometimes fix some other problems.
10.8.5 Combo Update

"media not present" error when burning blu ray in PE12

I have two systems, both ground-up builds, identical Win 7 Home Premium and Premiere Elements 12 installs. Both systems have internal blu-ray burners. One burner is an ASUS BW-12B1AT and the other is a Pioneer burner (don't recall the model number).
System 1: Intel 4770k with Gigabyte MB
System 2: AMD 8-core with Gigabyte MB
System 1 gives "Media not present" error in PE12 when attempting to burn to blu ray discs using Verbatim discs. System is able to burn DVDs and CDs, and playback blu ray discs. System is also capable of burning blu rays using Nero.
System 2 works fine - blu ray media is recognized instantly by PE12 when in the drive and burns blu rays perfectly.
I swapped the blu ray drives and SATA cables from System 1 and System 2 with the same result - this eliminated the drive manufacturer and cables from being the problem, as both drives worked perfectly in System 2 and neither worked in System 1. I also tried different SATA ports and power supply taps on System 1 without any success.
Then, I noticed that on System 1, with the dialog box open and indicating the "media not present" error, if I ejected the blu ray disc and reinserted it, the burner LED would flash 18 times (approx. 1/sec) and then pulse briefly indicating a burst of activity for about 1 second, as if it was either reading the disc or writing to the SATA. If I pressed the "rescan" button during this brief burst of LED activity, then the disc was recognized and I could proceed to burn it. If I tried to press the rescan button at any time before this instant or after, the "media not present" error did not clear.
To me, this is an indication that something in the handshake timing of the SW and the burner is not correct, and that timing differences in the system HW are not provided for in the SW. I see that many others have had this issue and have had to buy work-around image burners to address this. I believe your burner drivers need to be reworked to eliminate this bug. This is evidenced by the fact that Nero works and your SW does not, and that different systems consistently exhibit this problem.
Please let me know when you will have a SW patch to address this or if you have any idea of system settings that can be adjusted (I don't know of any myself) that would eliminate this problem.

pastrobes
This is not Adobe. Rather user to user. If you want to contact Adobe, your likely route is via Adobe Chat.
If you have a feature request or bug report, then consider filing a Adobe Feature Request Bug Report Forum with Adobe
Adobe - Feature Request/Bug Report Form
The likelihood of an Adobe engineer seeing your thread here is essentially slim to none.
Your results are very interesting but lots more variables to consider.
Do you have any version of Premiere Elements other than 12? It would be interesting to learn if a prior version's burn
dialog would present with the Media Not Preset issue for your burn to Blu-ray System 1. That is easy enough done with a tryout of
11 or 10 or 9 from the following web site. ProDesignTools: Adobe® Developments in Focus
On the other side of the coin, you could give the new version a look in this regard. A new version is expected at the
end of September 2014.
As an aside, have you updated 12 to 12.1 Update, using an opened project's Help Menu/Update. If not, I would encourage
you to do so. It does correct an Expert workspace text styles issue plus other matters undefined by Adobe.
ATR

CPU and SSD

Hi guys
I am about to buy my first Workstation Lenovo TS P900.
Thanks to Erik for the info about the GPU.
The configuration I chose:
Xeon CPU E5 2620v3
8 GB DDR4 ECC
1T Sata 3 HDD
Questions:
In the future Can I install a second CPU as the E5 2630v3 ? Or the CPU must be equal ?
I have 2 sata 3 OCZ Vertex SSD 460, can I mount them on ThinkStation P900 ???
Can I install the OS (win 7 Pro) on a SSD and use it as a boot drive ???
PCIe SSD are supported ?
Thank you very much!
Kumoru.

OK, so here's a brief tutorial on how the FLEX trays work in P900. I apologize for the shoddy photography, but I was in a bit of a hurry and working in bad light
P900 uses blind connect assemblies (BCA) by default. There are two types...BCA-S which support only SATA and SAS, and BCA-P which support SATA, SAS, and PCIe drives. If you are using the standard onboard Intel sSATA controller, your P900 will be equipped with dual BCA-S (one for each set of bays).
Below is a pic of the BCA-S. Note that there are 4 connectors, each connector supporting SATA or SAS. Note that each connector has two LEDs (blue boxes) to display which drive type is supported.
When the BCA is connected to the system (via the motherboard or LSI discrete controller) and AC power is attached to the system, the LEDs will illuminate to show you which ports are active, and what drive types are supported by each port.
For example, the next pic shows dual BCA-S installed in a P900. The connectors for the BCA-S are attached to the standard onboard Intel sSATA controller. The pic doesn't show it in great detail, but you can see that there are 4 ports illuminated, and that the SATA LED for each port is the one that's illuminated. So when using the onboard sSATA controller, you have at most 4 active ports in the P90 systems, one active per FLEX tray. The other (non-illuminated) ports are not functional in this scenario.
Now, if you were to install a discrete LSI controller such as our LSI SATA/SAS RAID FLEX adapter (yellow box), and then connect the BCA-S assemblies to it, you'll see each BCA will react differently. Now when AC power is applied, all 8 ports will show as active, and you can see that both the SATA and SAS LED is illuminated for each port indicating that each port is now capable of supporting either a SATA or SAS drive.
In this case, the FLEX trays are now capable of supporting two drives in each tray. There are some limitations involved in what can be supported, but generally one 3.5" drive and one 2.5" drive (SSD) can be supported in the same tray. Below are pics showing a single SSD installed in a FLEX tray, and then the same SATA SSD installed with another 3.5" SATA drive.
As noted, the FLEX trays can be installed normally and upside down (flipped), so it's important to make sure you are installing the populated FLEX trays correctly to ensure you are using the right ports.
This is really just a brief overview. Storage on P900 can be very (very) complicated, and there are certain limitations that exist depending on the configuration. We're working to put together a whitepaper to try to cover storage for all three new platforms (P500, P700, and P900). It's still in draft state at this time though as we're in the process of making updates to improve the various supported configurations in the platforms.
As always, feel free to ask questions and I'll try my best to answer them.

Northbridge temps

Can all the people OC'ing with NEO 865 or 875 please post their FSB speeds and north bridge temps. CPU temps would be great also (please post your cooling system then).
I'm at 250 FSB 56c under load 38c idle
North bridge is constant 65 C
Sys temp at 25-27 C
Intel H&F

Quote
Originally posted by iyongski
Quote
I CALLED MSI TECH. in NEW JERSEY USA. He stated that there IS NO HEAT SENSOR CHIP ON THE 865 FOR SURE!. He is not SURE if there is one on the 875. ON the ORIGINAL BOARD SPEC. PRINTS, ONLY THE 875 WAS TO GET THE NB HEAT SENSOR. But he thinks it MIGHT HAVE NOT BEEN IMPLEMENTED IN MANUFACTURING. He is going to check into this and he will notify me VIA E-MAIL on 10-4-03. ..Sean REILLY875
One would think that after MANY MONTHS in the market, and HUNDREDS of mentions of HIGH NB TEMPS in this forum, someone would have bothered to mention it earlier - but NO.
Makes you wonder if MSI knows what they are doing.
1. They have a perfectly good chip that can sense 3 fan inputs and control 2 outputs - but they don't bother to connect SFAN to it.
2. Now they probably forgot to put a thermal diode for NB temp sensor.
3. They claim to plan putting in DOT in 875P Neo, but where is it?
4. They neglect to tie the HD LED to SATA drive activity.
5. They do manage to put ridiculous voltage settings for bragging rights - Although these setting are guaranteed to fry your CPU, RAM or AGP card.
6. They also put a control for AGP/PCI bus freq, even though it never really matches the setting.
What's next, MSI? Oops - we forgot to put some parts for real Prescott S-478 Support
Thats a good resume.
When I first bought the board I was disappointed when I read here in the forums that SATA drives activity was not shown on the led. But then I only had PATA drives so I didn´t mind.
When I installed speedfan I was wondering why the fan 3 speed was 0 RPM. I thought it was faulty at first, but I checked it and it was running ok. Then I read here that there was no connection to monitor the speed. That was really annoying. Second, I wondered why NB temperature was so high and, again, searched here for answers. No one had a definitive answer to this.
And now... it is known, almost 100% sure, that they forgot to put a thermal diode?!?
It is sad... because this is not a bad board. I have been able to overclock my Pentium 4 2.4C up to 2.64 GHz with Kingston value ram at 1:1 ratio and up to 3 GHz with 5:4 ratio. Problems with memory, windows xp and other things are not only exclusive to this board, I have read several articles that tell about other brands like Asus and Abit having problems too.
I wouldn't mind about Prescott support iyongski. When it arrives, and when some time passes and prices drop to allow users like us buy one, I think it will be time for a new board. And end of story.

P55A-GD65 AHCI HDD Light Issue

I just installed a P55A-GD65 mobo and enabled AHCI on my 2TB connected to a SATA 3 port. Prior to changing to AHCI, the HDD indicator LED worked, showing HDD activity. In Windows 7 x64, there is no longer HDD LED activity whenever the AHCI drive is active. There is activity whenever my secondary HD is active, which is connected to a SATA 2 port.
Why is this, and is there any workarounds?

Please use correct terminology, SATA III, SATA 6Gb/s, or SATA 6.0, etc.
If the OS was installed when in IDE Mode, you can't switch to AHCI without tweaking the registry, it will not properly boot. That is why the HDD shows no activity. There are a number of tutorials on how to make the necessary changes on the internet.

No Sata Led activity

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