No Signal Loss When Plugged In

Like many, I have suffered from the dropped bars while holding my phone the way most people do. I tried something last night and for some reason when I pick up my phone with my left hand when it's plugged into the power outlet not one bar drops. Maybe an issue related to antenna power or a combination of things. Try it and see if it works on yours.

HP will tell you to try re-installing the drivers or downgrade the BIOS, but nothin will help. HP has no answer for this issue, im finding an answer fow last 30days on the internet for my DV-6 6199ee laptop which came with Beats Audio, same here when i plugged in the headphone which i got with my laptop iBeats Headphones, there is no audio at all im a proffessional in the IT field and i cannot find a soloution my self, i feel sorry for people who does not even know anything about computers at all.
Cheers!

Similar Messages

Test of other cell phones for signal loss when touching antenna

The problem with the video clips claiming that all cell phones exhibit a drop in receive signal strength when covered with the hand is that using bars as an indicator is useless. Every cell phone has a different bars to -dBm conversion table. It's comparing apples to oranges.
In order to get a valid comparison, the actual signal strength from the field test mode in -dBm needs to be used. Rather than dump all the numbers and photos into this discussion group, I threw together a web page with my results and guesswork:
*http://802.11junk.com/jeffl/cellular/cell-test.htm*
Since none of my friends and associates will let me restore the field test application on their iPhone 4 in order to run a numeric test, I'm using numbers from:
*http://www.anandtech.com/show/3794/the-iphone-4-review/2*
So far, the iPhone is somewhere between 6 and 18 times worse than the worst phone tested (Motorola RARZ V3c). What this indicates to me is that something more than just antenna detuning or Q reduction is happening with the iPhone 4. I don't know the exact cause, but the iPhone 4 does not appear to act like the other cell phones.

JeffLiebermann wrote:
It's not really a question. It's more like additional information on the topic of the allegedly fixed antenna problem. This discussion forum software apparently does not allow replies to a posting unless it's marked as a question. So, I marked it as a question. If this is inappropriate, please advise and I'll change it. However, I would prefer to discuss my testing instead of administrivia.
Don't mind them. They don't really want to know (or care) if you have a question or need help. They're just trying to insult and mock you. When someone does ask a question or need help, no one really answers here.
"Do you have a question" is just their sarcastic response whenever anyone posts something they don't like which doesn't directly ask a question. If it's negative, they're real sticklers that every post must be a question seeking help. If someone starts a thread saying "Hey, I just want to say I love my iPhone 4" (clearly not a question), they're fine with that.

Signal Loss when finger over the volume buttons

I've seen other users on youtube experiencing this issue. When you place your finger around the two volume buttons, the signal on the phone will slowly lose cell phone bars until it goes to "searching for signal". Remove your finger and the cell phone bars will return one by one. Hopefully this is an issue that can be fixed via firmware. I have dropped two calls so far and no I have to hold the phone in an unnatural way to make a call without dropping it.

I have an iphone 4, and i am really impressed.
But there is one thing which could really be improved:
the missing hardware shutter button for photos!
i would immediately purchase the now rejected app "camera+" which used the a volume button for the shutter, but it is not avaliable any more - because it was taken down by apple!
the camera is great, for stills and for video - with the use of hardware buttons it would be even nicer!
i think it should work like this:
1. an option to use "silent mode", "+" and "-" for the camera
2. turn on camera with "silent mode" switch
3. press "+" to take a still
4. press "-" to start/stop record a video
this would be an really impressive minimal style snapshot camera with only three buttons!
so apple please consider your (ridiculous) policy about apps or implement such a feature in a new iOS update.

Does anyone else suffer tv signal loss when their apple tv 2 turns on?

My apple tv 2 has always worked fine. After the iOS 5 upgrade, whenever my apple tv turns on (randomly a couple times an hour) my tv signal goes in and out. The second the light turns off the tv is fine again. My tv is hooked up to Comcast, but the most basic cable. I don't think the hd channels I use are even through comcast as I don't pay for hd. I think I just get the over the air signal through the Comcast antenna somehow. Again, this never happened before the iOS 5 upgrade. Any ideas?

There's also the complication that, for me, 103 is ITV Anglia, but 178 is ITV Meridan HD. There is no Anglia HD.
In some parts of the country, 105 is 5 HD. I think it's only the red & green areas of here - http://about.channel5.com/sales/spot-advertising/macro-map

Any noticable signal loss with the DVI-to-video adapter?

Hi, there. Would any of you happen to know whether there's an appreciable signal loss when converting from DVI to, say, composite video via the DVI-to-video adapter? I'd like to hook my MBP up to an HDTV (when I eventually get one), and I'm wondering if going through the adapter would produce a degraded picture for DVDs, compared to a direct digital connection from a DVD player to the TV.
Actually, I'm wondering the same thing about the audio connection. Any loss in audio quality when using an adapter to connect the MBP's mini-jack to an HDTV or receiver?
Thanks much.

ragamoffyn,
While there's no "signal loss," as such, there is a considerable loss in signal quality. However, you're over-thinking this...
HDTVs accept HDMI connections, and your Macbook Pro has a DVI output. The ports are dissimilar, but digital video signal is the same. In other words, you would simply use a DVI-to-HDMI cable. In fact, many HD cable boxes (mine included) still have a DVI port, not an HDMI port. There is no loss of signal or quality.
Really, the only difference between DVI and HDMI is the fact that HDMI transmits both video and digital audio. DVI doesn't do this, so you must resort to transmitting audio separately. Not a problem: use an optical digital cable, which your Macbook Pro will accept (as will most HDTVs). That said, you might be better off connecting the audio portion of your MBP's output to a home entertainment (surround sound??) receiver.
Now, I'm not sure about the "progressive scan" capabilities of the Macbook Pro and DVD Player. You'll have to research that yourself. I can tell you that normal DVDs can be "upconverted" by a progressive scan set-top DVD player, and the result looks absolutely stunning on an HDTV. It's not quite as good as full HD, but it comes pretty close. Also, many newer units are being made with HDMI ports. In other words, the DVD is upconverted, and the result is transmitted over a full HD connection. Best of all, these set-top boxes can be had for under $100.
BTW, the composite video you suggest is simply "standard definition," and not the best SD at that (S-Video is better). Component video (where there are three separate "RCA"-type connectors) is much, much better, but even that doesn't match digital (DVI or HDMI). Also, the DVI-to-HDMI cable you will need can be had at Walmart for around $30. They can also be found at places like Best Buy or CompUSA, but these retailers tend to over-charge for over-blown items (No one needs a "Monster" HDMI cable that costs over $100, and which does no more than the $30 cable from Walmart; digital is digital).
Scott

Major Performance Loss when the charger is plugged in

I have a Toshiba Satellite L50D-ASTNX, and have been noticing severe performance loss when I have my charging cable plugged in, whether it is losing frame rate in a video game, or receiving extreme stutters and cpu underruns when producing music on FL Studio 11. When I'm not plugged in my performance is great on high performance mode, but the second I plug in my charger I receive an instant and noticeable drop in performance and IT IS FRUSTRATING to say the least. This has nothing to do with my battery settings, nor does it have anything to do with my advance power settings because I have checked all of that. If anyone has a solution to this please let me know because I'm tired of getting only an hour of use on my laptop before I have to plug the charger bac in and leave it alone since it struggles to perform when charging.
OS: Windows 8.1
Ram: 8gb
CPU/GPU: AMD A8-5545M APU 1.7ghz

Hey cacobo,
I found an article that can help with troubleshooting an iPhone's receiver or speakers.
iPhone: Can't hear through the receiver or speakers
http://support.apple.com/kb/TS1630
Verify that there is nothing plugged in to the headset jack, including headsets, headphones, or adapters.
Make sure the Ring/Silent switch is not switched to silent.
While on the Home screen, adjust the volume buttons. If you see the icon below, indicating that headphones are attached, there may be debris or an object lodged in the headset jack:
Check the headset jack. If there is an object lodged in the headset jack that is not easily removed, have the iPhone serviced to remove object.
For Original iPhone: If there is light debris, such as lint, in the headset jack, try connecting a pair of headphones to the headset jack and then remove the headphones. Repeat this several times to remove the debris.
If you have installed a protective film on the display, either ensure that the receiver is not covered or remove the film completely.
Check the receiver mesh (which is on the top front of the device, above the display). If it appears blocked, use a clean, small, dry, soft-bristled brush to carefully and gently brush away any debris.
If you have paired with a Bluetooth headset that is nearby, either use the headset or turn Bluetooth off (chooseSettings > General > Bluetooth).
Restart the iPhone.
If restarting the iPhone doesn't resolve the issue, try restoring the device.
If the issue persists, go to the Service Answer Center - iPhone for information on service.
Hope that helps,
David

Periodic signal loss on DCT700 digital adapter

Our kitchen TV is connected to the FiOS ONT via a basic digital adapter (Motorola DCT700/US). On some TV channels, the sound disappears and the picture freezes for up to a few seconds at regular intervals.
The problem affects only channels 11 through 25, as far as I can tell (I didn't try every single one!). It occurs at the top of every minute, at the instant when the on-screen clock display rolls over to the next minute. Sometimes the event lasts for only a second or so, in which case the sound resumes and the picture unfreezes after the interruption. If the signal loss persists for longer, I get a gray screen with a message that "the channel is having technical difficulties" before the program resumes. Either way, it's very annoying.
If I'm watching the same channel via the SD set-top box in the living room, or via either of the CableCards in the TiVo DVR, there is no interruption of sound or picture.
The DCT700 was installed and activated by the Verizon rep as part of my FiOS installation two weeks ago. I don't recall the problem showing up when he performed his final checkup before leaving, but it's possible we chose channels outside the range mentioned above and/or weren't watching the TV during the fairly short time interval during which the problem occurs.
I tried disconnecting the power adapter from the DCT700 for about a minute, but the problem was still present after the DCT700 restarted.

DukeDog wrote:
I pulled the plug and re-plugged all 3 adapters and none of them show a channel number. Very odd. And none of the of the manuals even reference the problem to find out how to correct it.
Do you have any idea why I'm not getting channels like CNN? Am I supposed to be getting channels like CNN?
The "trick" of unplugging should resolve the channel display issue (it only shows up for a short period in the bottom left of the TV screen immediately after changing channels).
As Matcarl said, if you are not getting all the SD channels you are subscribed to you need to contact Verizon as the boxes have apparently not been provisioned correctly.
If a forum member gives an answer you like, give them the Kudos they deserve. If a member gives you the answer to your question, mark the answer as Accepted Solution so others can see the solution to the problem.

Ipod shuts down when plugged in to one port does nothing on any other

Ok here we go. I have a Ipod 5th gen 80gb. My computer is home built but the usb ports well with every other device. I'm using windows vista with SP1 installed and a dual boot of linux. Everything was great with my ipod untill just recently when there was a short in my usb cable. I went out and bought a new cable, now the ipod says "No battery power remains please plug in cable" when I plug it in to the front USB ports on my computer. It will do nothing when plugged in to any other port. It will do this no matter if I'm in disk mode, diagnostic mode or regular mode on my ipod. but this is only on the front USB ports on my desktop I've tried them on my HP dv6000 laptop, and every other port on my desktop but on any of those ports the ipod does nothing no charge signal, no response on the computer nothing at all. I'm at a loss for words with this, scoured the internet looking for info to no avail.

Do you have a wall power plug for your ipod? It sounds like it has run dead enough to where the usb ports arent giving the amount of power it needs to charge.

I have a late 2008 white macbook. I have a mini dvi to hdmi adapter, and a hdmi cord. My cannot get my MB to detect an external monitor. Nothing happens when plugged in. Also, my display settings does not have an option for mirroring or arrangment tab

I have a late 2008 white macbook. I have a mini dvi to hdmi adapter, and a hdmi cord. My cannot get my MB to detect an external monitor. Nothing happens when plugged in. Also, my display settings does not have an option for mirroring or arrangment tab

Yeah, I'm having the same exact problem - It seems that the thunderbolt minidisplay port is only able to output the analog VGA signal, not the digital signal to support DVI and HDMI. This is a bug that came up after installing 10.7.1. I bought my macbook air with 10.7 on it, upgraded it to 10.7.1 as soon as I got it, so I have never been able to use hdmi or dvi with my macbook air. This is an extremely frustrating problem for me, I used HDMI on a daily basis with my PC. I have spent many hours at the genius bar running diagnostic tests so Apple can get as much information as possible to create a fix for this problem. I have been emailing tech support for 3 or so weeks now, they keep saying that they are working on a fix and it should be out soon, but 10.7.2 has come and gone and I still have no HDMI functionality with my MacBook Air!

Macbook works fine when plugged in, turns off when unplugged.

Hello all,
As stated my 2008 Unibody 13 inch, serial number W8******1AX turns on and works fine when it is connected to power.
When it is unplugged it instantly turns off and turns its fans on full until it depletes the battery (so it is obviously getting power.. just not where I want it)
Since the problem began I have tried two new batteries, neither of which had any different symptoms.
Before this, the computer had an intermittent life, it would turn off when it saw fit, which got progressively worse.
I have followed the guides to resetting the SMC but have had no luck
I have been running it without the battery (to save it charging and discharging for no reason) and sometimes when plugged in without a battery
the magsafe green indicator light goes from dim to bright.
With the battery installed it stays bright orange until it is charged and then switches to bright green.
(I have tried it with another charger, same symptoms)
Here is the Battery Read out;
Battery Information:
Model Information:
Serial Number:          ?00€›Æ⁄¬+9tt
Manufacturer:          GSA-1280
Device Name:          ASMB016
Pack Lot Code:          3230
PCB Lot Code:          30db
Firmware Version:          ddae
Hardware Revision:          dac2
Cell Revision:          2b39
Charge Information:
Charge Remaining (mAh):          4113
Fully Charged:          No
Charging:          Yes
Full Charge Capacity (mAh):          4200
Health Information:
Cycle Count:          1
Condition:          Normal
Battery Installed:          Yes
Amperage (mA):          379
Voltage (mV):          12275
System Power Settings:
AC Power:
System Sleep Timer (Minutes):          15
Disk Sleep Timer (Minutes):          10
Display Sleep Timer (Minutes):          5
Automatic Restart on Power Loss:          No
Wake on AC Change:          No
Wake on Clamshell Open:          Yes
Wake on LAN:          Yes
Current Power Source:          Yes
Display Sleep Uses Dim:          Yes
PrioritizeNetworkReachabilityOverSleep:          0
Battery Power:
System Sleep Timer (Minutes):          2
Disk Sleep Timer (Minutes):          10
Display Sleep Timer (Minutes):          1
Wake on AC Change:          No
Wake on Clamshell Open:          Yes
Display Sleep Uses Dim:          Yes
Reduce Brightness:          Yes
Hardware Configuration:
UPS Installed:          No
AC Charger Information:
Connected:          Yes
ID:          0x0100
Wattage (W):          60
Revision:          0x0000
Family:          0x00ba
Serial Number:          0x00ebc719
Charging:          Yes
Power Events:
Repeating Events:
Type:          Wake or Power On
If this at all helps.
I'm at my wits end with this thing, I know it is getting on in age, but other then this, it has been flawless in its operation.
If anyone has any suggestions I would be happy to hear them.
Many thanks!!
<Edited By Host>

There may be a hardware cause behind the symptoms you cite, so a diagnostic
is recommended to see which parts are weak or failed in the computer. A visit to
an Apple Store with Genius bar may be helpful, as they can perform testing there.
A call ahead or use their web page, to schedule an appointment, is advised.
In the US and Canada, the Genius bar at a retail Apple Store can perform
a diagnostic service, for no fee, even on Apple products without AppleCare.
See links:
Apple - Concierge
Genius Bar - Apple Retail Store:
http://www.apple.com/retail/geniusbar/
List of Apple Stores, cities, countries:
http://www.apple.com/retail/storelist/
Also authorized Apple service providers who can test, repair and guarantee their
work should be able to handle an out-of-warranty older Mac, within age limits...
Ones too old for the Apple Store could be serviced at a Specialist, instead.
•Find Locations - Sales, Service, Training, Consulting:
https://locate.apple.com/
•Did you try resetting the System Management Controller?
Intel-based Macs: Resetting the System Management Controller (SMC)
•A reset of NVRAM may help with some issues:
About NVRAM and PRAM
•Calibrating is part of maintenance, esp with older portables:
Apple Portables: Calibrating your computer's battery for best performance
•The power adapter can be problematic and cause issues, so there's this:
Apple Portables: Troubleshooting MagSafe adapters
Also another item, other than keeping the magnetic connections clean of
debris, grime, and corrosion, is to check the MagSafe Board or have it
checked as part of a greater diagnostic. This board is behind the port
that supplies the computer and the battery with power from the adapter.
When it partially fails or if/when one of the connecting wires or plug fails
you can find odd issues or partial use. The battery may charge but it
may not be able to power the computer, and other odd effects.
https://www.ifixit.com/Device/MacBook
In older portable Macs, this was generally called a 'DC-in board' and as
such, you could read about it in an iFixit repair guide for the MacBook
model you have. These vary so the matching article is recommended to
see if that is something you may want to try. But I would have diagnostic
testing done and avoid additional damages from attempted DIY efforts.
There have been a few reports of other failure on the logic board that
contributes to a partial failure of the charging system, so about all this
may do is troubleshoot around the failure without finding an exact cause.
However it goes...
Good luck & happy computing!

Why does my iphone 4 go in and out of charging when plugged in?

I have an iphone 4 with the recent ios8 update installed but for some reason recently it does not charge right away when plugged in, and when it finally does charge it can blink on the screen in and out of charging like the cable is not supported. It is the same iphone 4 lightning cable that I bought with it so that can't be the issue right? I restarted the phone today as well and that still didn't fix it. It will charge the battery all the way when it connects properly but the connection is the problem. Is this a hardware or battery issue that can be fixed easily?

Yes, as paulcb says, it's most likely because coverage inside the building stinks. You're lucky you can get the EDGE signal inside. The last place I worked, AT&T had to come out and place an antenna inside the building. Largely because we threatened to cancel our contract of over 500 phones with them if they didn't fix it.

Camera connect kit disturbs/cuts wlan connection when plugged in... why?

My camera connect kit disturbs/cuts wlan connection when plugged in to my iPad 2 ... why? It is impossible to keep wlan-connection while using the camera connect kit... does anybody have similar experiences?

... It was not really the cam connection kit... It was infact the radio dongle plugged in to the connection kit what created problems... The signal of the dongle was disturbing the WLAN antenna of the iPad... I was looking for a possibility to have a external soundbox connected without cable and for listening to live streamed news... Now, I need the cable for connecting the dongle with distance to the iPad... Not really a satisfying solution... Nö way arround, I guess?!?

Sudden signal loss..???

Very frustrating signal loss every 4-6 minutes with my Airport Extreme card in my 12" PB!
Using Linksys WRT54G wireless router. When I have a signal I get 10 to 15 bars then suddenly nothing! It spontaneously reconnects.
I have tried different channels, my SSID is set to "broadcast" and I don't have a 2.4ghz phone in the house and my neighbors are a distance away so other phones would not be a factor.
What could be the problem?

Microwave ovens: Placing your computer or an AirPort Base Station near a microwave oven that is in use may cause interference.
No, it happens when microwave not in use.
Direct Satellite Service (DSS) RF leakage: The coax cable that came with certain types of satellite dishes may cause interference. Obtain newer cables if you suspect RF leakage.
I do have DSS but the system but it is brand new, a year old and was present when I had the other notebooks.
Certain electrical devices such as power lines, electrical railroad tracks, and power stations.
None nearby
2.4 GHz phones: A cordless telephone that operates in this range may cause interference with AirPort communication when used. There are also other devices that operate in the 2.4 GHz range that could cause interference.
No 2.4GHz devices in the house.
Metal objects: If possible, move metal objects or change the placement of the Base Station so the path between your AirPort equipped-computer and the Base Station is free from metal objects that may cause interference.
No major metal objects in the path.
X-10 video senders (transmitters/receivers) that operate in the 2.4 GHz bandwidth.
Any other devices that operate in the 2.4 GHz bandwidth (microwaves, cameras, baby monitors, and so on).
None in the house in operation.

Signal loss at random was not doing this last month

I have an older iphone and i have had a&tt for a while. i havent ever had signal lost untill recently now it happens all the time without warning. I am now missing important work calls and may have to switch users. any advice would be awesome. nothing seems to have changed and it doesnt happen in the same place and also happens outside.

Hello @Logan253
I’m sorry to hear you’ve been experiencing a loss of signal.
Which version of iPhone are you using? How long have you been experiencing the signal loss?
Have you tried resetting your network settings? Go to Settings > General > Reset > Reset Network Settings
Also, have you tried inserting your AT&T SIM card into another phone to replicate the issue?
If you’ve got no issue when using another AT&T phone, then your problem could be hardware related and the iPhone might need replacement.
Please let us know if you have any other questions or concerns.
Thank you,
Charise

Bumper is only an insulator preventing signal loss not a reception fixer

Many get confused and start complaining about their reception when the bumper is mentioned, and that it doesn't help them.
The bumper is only an insulator, as every other case, some better dielectrics than others.
The bumper will NOT fix your reception problems if you have them. That's why some of those who go out and buy bumpers may not see improvement. Their signal will not change, but their reception will be the same.
The bumper will help ONLY in cases where you have GOOD reception and then lose it as it gets degraded when holding the phone from the line or just plain pick it up and try to use it.
Additionally, those who call for Apple to give out free bumpers should take the above into consideration, as they are not for everyone. Why?
Because A) Many don't need them, and B) They won't help if AT&T or your carrier in your area isn't doing it for you. The bumper is not a signal/network amplifier/helper/fixer. It's just an insulator.
There are some reporting issues and signal differences between a 3Gs and an iPhone 4 in the same area. I have seen that with my 4 and my 3Gs, occasionally, but for the most part they agree, and seem to work as expected for their particular specs. I mention this because there may still be something to fix there, for both, by Apple, and I have seen it mentioned here too. But, it has NOTHING to do with the bumper, and the bumper won't make a difference.
Those are my thoughts. Perhaps they will help some get real answers and not fake hopes that their network problems will be fixed by an insulator. I am just trying to clarify the different areas that are being discussed and are currently being lumped together as one, because they aren't.
Consumer Reports, btw, is ONLY talking about this issue in their recent tests, the signal drop without a bumper issue, not reception problems, not network problems, but the POTENTIAL of dropping a call or having network issues by holding the phone from the line. Nothing more than that! I have more to say on that but, again, I do not want to send mixed messages.

Funny because she has noted on MANY other posts that she got a bumper and never touches the area where there is a problem, agreeing that there is an issue here, and then turns around and says "i don't need a bumper to use my phone."
I think she believes that if you have a car whose steering wheel falls off when use your hands that is a non issue, as you can always use your feet. The fact that the OP points to a thread in which you can pretty much divide people into two categories.
1. Disagree with Zebra entirely
2. Are not having the issue but still sympathise that there is obviously a problem with reception due to touching bare skin to the antenna for some people out there which is rectified by getting a insulating piece of plastic.
Which is what's funny, the OP started one thread, completely lost control of it because the OP is not willing to listen to any reason or sense towards those experiencing the problem so started a new topic hoping to be in control again.
The problem is, the bumper does HELP reception, by stopping your conductive hand touching the metal antenna. The signal goes down when touching the metal antennas over the black divider, this is almost certainly because you are bridging the two antennas, as it can be caused by just a paperclip across the two, or the tip of your finger.
Again, the bumper stops this shorting as it is plastic.
AKA the bumper does prevent signal loss, which allows for BETTER reception.
When you touch this point, signal goes down, and call quality drops (aka the reception is lowerd.) In case your still wondering, becuase we all know she will be, lets consult OXFORD.
Pronunciation:/rɪˈsɛpʃ(ə)n/
noun
1 [mass noun] the action or process of receiving something sent, given , or inflicted:
sensation is not the passive reception of stimuli
2 the process of receiving broadcast signals:
a microchip that will allow parents to block reception of violent programmes
Touching the left part of the iphone causes data to stop being transmitted when in medium to low signal. agree or disagree? That is a loss of reception, please check your definitions.
You with us yet Z?
i feel its my duty to educate you on the wonderful language of English (forget spelling, lets just look at definitions for now shall well
http://www.oxforddictionaries.com/view/entry/men_gb0691620#m_engb0691620

No Signal Loss When Plugged In

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