No Signal No Camera

Hello
I broke my iphone 4s(it fell down from a high distance), and I took it to a repair shop. They changed the screen, but there was no signal and the camera didn't work. In the up left corner, it shows (searching) all the time, and the carrier icon in settings appears for a short time then disappears again.
They tried to change the ICs and the antenna, but no success. They said the problem most likely from the logic board, and my iphone cannot be fixed.
Is it true?
Can it be a software problem?? I tried to restore it many times, but nothing.
What should I do in this case??
Please help me !!!
My warranty has expired.

If the monitor is showing the output from the lens
the camera is not in VCR mode. It has to be in VCR
mode, otherwise it's acting as a camera, ready to
take pictures.
Correct, and thank you. I just wanted to provide proof that the signal was going thru to the monitor. The adding of the tape must've just tickled the system enough for the whole thing to work. All fine here now.

Similar Messages

IPhone 4 'Searching...' / 'No Signal' + default Camera app freezing/pixelated

Hey everyone!
I recently (26th August) had my iPhone replaced by Apple due to water damage, when I got the new iPhone home everything was fine for around an hour until the signal dropped of and just displayed 'Searching...' or 'No Signal'
I assumed it may have been the sim as that was also slightly damaged, so I ordered a new sim from O2 and had it activated when it arrived, this didn't work, the phone still displayed the same messages and O2 said it may have been a bad sim card so they sent another one...same problem when that arrived also, by now I was getting angry with O2 as I had been without network service for almost a week(now over a week)
I restored the phone and chose to set up as a new iPhone, to see if that changed anything, it didn't so I restored back to my backup.
Today (5th Sep) I was due to go to an Apple Genius Bar appointment about the phone so in the hope that they would again replace the iPhone, I restored it to as new so none of my details were on the device, when the restore was finished the network suddenly started to work again and I started to receive 3 weeks worth of text's.
All seemed to be working fine, so I decided to log in and cancel the genius appointment, but now, almost exactly as when I first got the replacement, the signal has again dropped off and is now displaying the same 'Searching...' / 'No Signal messages.
Have I been given a duff replacement or is this some kind of software problem?
My other problem with the camera...
I was at the Paralympics on Sunday (2nd Sep) and wanted to take photo's and videos with the new replacement iPhone, I had had no problems with the camera up until that day, but for some reason the default camera app suddenly kept freezing after every photo I took, displayed all the photos as pixelated and was crashing all the time so it was pretty much unusable.
What could be the problem?
Many thanks, Dan!

Hi Patrick.mc,
Did you end up fixing this issue? I had IOS7.0.4 and first encountered this problem yesterday (TPG Australia) and it's really frustrating. Backed up the phone, erased/reset the phone and it went away (although the "cellular settings" now read "mobile settings") at Apple Genius Bar. They also replaced the battery and in the process, realized there were other problem with the phone so they gave me a new one as it is still under warranty. However, I then updated the software of the new phone to IOS7.1.1 and restored it from my backup. THE PROBLEM CAME BACK! ON THE NEW PHONE! The cellular settings is now mobile settings. Signal keeps dropping out and can never open the cellular settings. It just keeps crashing to Springboard.
I ended up resetting the new phone, and just do a partial restore (manually transfer the photos back to the phone etc) and reinstalling apps back manually. Lost all other minor stuff. Let me know if anyone out there is encountering this.

46SL412U Sudden No Video Signal for all HDMI Ports

My daughters and I were playing the Wii U tonight on our Toshiba 46SL412U LED TV when suddenly the picture when black and the No Video Signal message came up. I changed out the HDMI cable thinking the cable went bad, but still no picture. I power cycled the TV, still nothing. I am also not getting any picture with any of my other devices that are hooked up via HDMI port (BluRay player, Chromecast). Oddly, the REGZA-LINK still recognized that the BluRay and Chromecast are plugged in and switches to the correct input when I power either of them on, but i'm still getting the No Video Signal message.
Is there a setting I've missed that suddenly changed, or did all of my HDMI inputs suddenly go bad? What can I do to fix this issue?

To check the Graphics card's funtionality you may go to BIOS menu and see if is it listed or not; if yes, then it's working, and you may have to check the video/HDMI cables.
Try to boot the PC without connecting any device other than monitor, power cable, mouse and keyboard.
To check the warranty, you may use the below link:
http://www11.itrc.hp.com/service/ewarranty/warrantyInput.do?admit=109447626+1275645640303+28353475
If you have any doubt regarding the warranty, contact HP support.

Signal drop after installing OS 4.0.1 - Apple 3GS 16GB

Hi,
I have installed OS 4.0.1 yesterday and immediatly noticed drop in signal strength.Signal strength came to half after installing it.
Any one else experiencing the same problem and any solution?
I know I can go back to old version rather than that any solution?
Thank you
G.Partheepan

lrdnitecon wrote:
Incorrect... it changed the equation for the display. the math was changed which is now affecting the actual connection.
No, it didn't.
the places i had full signal now only has half. the places i had a one bar now has none. this is all since the 4.1 update.
That sounds about right, as the update changes this.
so a software update does have the ability to affect things like signal if everything is based off the previous equation. you follow what im saying.
Again, no. The update does not change the actual signal your phone gets. It can't, as this is dependent on the cell tower's output power and how much of that is coupled into the antenna. That yields a certain signal strength number, expressed in dBm, which the phone then maps to a visualization in bars. This is done because most people have no idea what -100 dBm means, much less how much worse that is than -51dBm (which is all you'll ever get). A nice graph showing bar is pretty understandable, though, so phones use that.
How the raw numbers (dBm) map to bars is different per phone. You can not compare a Nokia phone to an iPhone, or an iPhone to a blackberry, or a blackberry to an HTC phone, etc. using just 'bars'. You need the raw numbers.
The 4.0.1 update changed how the different numbers map to bars. Nothing else changed, apart from some Exchange-related bug.
Here's a picture showing what happens. Keep in mind the actual signal strength (the line in the middle) does not change.
http://images.anandtech.com/reviews/gadgets/apple/iPhone4/part2/iPhoneSignal_bot h.jpg

Cellular radio takes long time to get a signal.

My cellular radio on my iPad 3rd generation is starting to Take quite a while recognizing a signal. It eventually recognizes the signal, but it takes too long. Is anyone else having this problem?

I tried the hard reset, and it still took about 3 minutes to find a signal. My LTE signal never came back up. It's displaying a 3G signal now. Should I reset network settings or something?

Has anyone used the camera on the Playbook? Is it too zoomed in for you?

On the playbook OS 2.1, when I compare what I am seeing between the camera in an app and the native camera app - I see about half as much - so the Air app camera looks zoomed in by a factor of 1.5 or 2.
Here, somewhat, is my code. I have tried without a holder and scaling my holder down to make sure there is no video outside the screen and there is not. What is in my camera is just zoomed in! I have also tried it with the desktop webcam and it is mostly comparible in zoom - Flash cuts off a little compared to the Web cam software but not nearly as much as on the Playbook. Any thoughts?
cam = new Video(1024, 600);
myTimer = new Timer(200, 1);
myTimer.addEventListener(TimerEvent.TIMER, init);
myTimer.start();
holder = new MovieClip();
addChildAt(holder,0);
// then in the init
signal = Camera.getCamera("1");
signal.setMotionLevel(1,10000);
signal.setQuality(0, 100);
signal.setKeyFrameInterval(30);
signal.setMode(cam.width, cam.height, 30, false);
cam.attachCamera(signal);
holder.addChild(cam);

Probably better to ask over in the BlackBerry AIR developer forum:
http://supportforums.blackberry.com/t5/Adobe-AIR-Development/bd-p/tablet

Synchronisation signal compteur

Bonjour,
Actuellement en stage, je dois faire un programme permettant la synchronisation
de deux signaux distincts.
Je travaille avec un Cristal liquide et une caméra. J'utilise la version 2012
de labview ainsi qu'un boîtier NIDAQ9184 contenant les modules suivants: NI
9401 ( qui sert de compteur) et NI 9263 ( qui sert à générer les signaux).
Je voudrais que le signal généré pour trigger la caméra se déclenche à un
moment bien précis et qu'il soit synchronisé avec la génération du signal
envoyé au cristal liquide (CL). Le signal envoyé au CL est un signal carré
(avec plusieurs paliers de tension) et modulé à 2kHz.
L'objectif est d'envoyer un signal de front montant à la caméra afin d'acquérir
des images. Lorsqu'on choisit un nombre d'image égal à 1, cela signifie que
pour chaque palier de tension du signal CL, un pic de tension est envoyé à la
caméra. Ces pics de tension (ou front montant) doivent être synchronisés avec
le signal CL d'après une horloge commune.
Dans un premier temps, on a tenté de visualiser les signaux: signal CL et
signal CAMERA en sortie du module 9401 sur un oscilloscope: (référencé comme
"génération des signaux CL et camera ok" dans le VI) et ça marche (l'horloge
est présente (référencée comme "configuration de l'horloge" dans le VI))
Puis nous avons tenté de rajouter un compteur (référencé comme "voie qui permet
la communication avec la caméra" dans le VI) qui permet d'envoyer le signal à
la caméra. cependant nous ne visualisons que le signal CL sur l'oscilloscope et
nous n'arrivons pas à établir une communication efficace avec la caméra.
L'erreur -201133 nous indique que la voie est déjà utilisée.
Il me semble donc que le problème réside dans la façon dont je communique avec
la caméra. Pourriez-vous m'indiquer si une erreur est présente dans le VI que
j'utilise?
Ci-joint les photos du boîtier nidaq ainsi que notre VI complet et un schéma de
la synchronisation souhaitée.
En vous remerciant d'avance
cordialement
Justine LETIEN

Bonjour,
Voici un lien relatif à l'erreur que vous obtenez
http://digital.ni.com/public.nsf/allkb/0495B7D5E2345DF386257730007EFD17?OpenDocument

3G: Have to re-activate everytime I switch signal off

I upgraded from original iphone to 3G last week. The first phone died in 8 hours (gave me a repair needed message) and was replaced by a puzzled apple store. When I got the 2nd they advised I got a new sim as 3G may not work properly on my old sim and may have been part of the original problem.
I set up the 2nd 3G phone using the old sim then when my number ported over and the original sim died I switched it with the new sim. Everything was working fine at first. Then i switched to airplane mode (to stop landline interference at work) when i switched it back on it went to the activation screen and had no signal. I switched off, I reset on the phone and nothing fixed it. After a few hours off when I turned it on it started to receive signal, sms came through etc but the activate screen remained so I couldn't do anything. When I had opportunity I connected to itunes and it resolved instantly. Now if i switch off or to airplane mode it returns to activation screen till i connect to itunes.
This is not good as I used to use airplane mode for a most of the day on my old phone and want to on the 3G too. Anyone have any ideas what is going on?

How many days / hours has this been going on? You may need to find out from AT&T if the account is fully active or provisioned.
There could also be a problem with the SIM card but I would find out if the account is done being set up first.

WRT54G2 no signal

I bought a WRT54G2 in January. I was able to setup and install successfully. Everything was working fine upon until yesterday when the power cable was accidentally removed from the router. Since then I realize that the wifi signal light came on some times and not of the laptops that were connected cannot recieve any signal from it.
I connected one of the laptops with a ethernet cable but I keep getting "Limited or no connectivity" on the LAN connection.
I managed to get connected with one laptop but when I go to the http://192.168.1.1 URL the page timed out. If I do get connected it is not for long before it is disconnected.
Is something corrupted then needs to be fix? How can I fix this? Or, do I need to replace the router (extremely last resort)?
Solved!
Go to Solution.

Thanks Richard but I tried that and it did not work.
However, I was able to find a solution.
I was able to get finally get access to the URL. After getting access I then reset the factory default. After doing this I realize that the wireless signal light was on again. Then I applied the latest firmware update (not sure if this was necessary). Now all is working perfectly as before.

Connecting to a Sony TV via Mini DVI - DVI

I have an older iMac 20" Intel core duo with the ATI Radien 1600 graphics card and bought a Mini DVI - DVI adapter and a DVI-D cable to connect to my Sony KP57WV600 projection television using the DVI input on the back of the tv. Well, after hooking everything up, my iMac still doesn't notice the tv as a display (or anything for that matter). Yet when I turn the tv on or off with the comp on, the screen on the mac turns blue for a breif moment. So some kind of signal is being transfered to the computer but no go for the use of a display. I've asked people on a few sony tv forums but they say to ask a mac expert. I've read others that have connected this tv via DVI to their PCs but have yet to find anyone that has done so with a mac.
Please help me.
Thanks in advance,
Nick

hey there xav_101 & welcome to Discussions
there's no way to directly connect 2 mini DV cams to your Mac & i'm not aware of any software that will do what you ask. if i were you i'd get an analog switcher w/ S-Video in & out, send output from switcher to the projectors using a distribution amp & also send to a VTR. the VTR could be a mini DV cam that converts analog to DV & send that into the Mac. i suppose you could use an analog>DVl device like a Canopus 110 instead of a cam to convert video out of the analog switcher to send to the Mac. i also use external mics(2 for an overall stereo mix of a musical performance) &/or take a board feed & a small audio mixer to get good, clean signal(no cam noise) into the cam/VTR/convertor.
when i've done a multi-cam shoot i've used 2-3 cams for shooting, an analog switcher & another cam to record & convert, then input to my Mac, or just record onto the non-shooting cam like a VTR, then dump that into my Mac later. mostly for short programs up to an hour. i do a bit of editing. maybe replace/add something 'cause i record onto my shooting cams as well, add credits then burn to DVD.
i know you didn't ask but anyway... for editing i've also just shot w/ as many cams as i need/have(up to 4) then dump footage from all cams into Final Cut--i've used both Express & Pro versions. it can take a little bit of tweaking to get everything lined up & synched, but that's part of what it does well, using multiple Audio & Video tracks.
good luck, hope this helps.

Can't boot G5 even from OS install disk. Help?

I've trolled the message boards 25 pages deep and searched all the "Can't boot my G5" threads and still haven't found anyone describing what my machine is doing so thought I'd start a new thread in the hopes someone can help me out.
Ok I have a G5 dual processor machine. (Power PC chip, not Intel) Things went bad when I tried to do an Archive and Install of Leopard (OS 10.5) The install looked as normal until I got to one minute left on the install. At that point the install never progressed. I thought maybe it was doing some behind the scenes processing and decided to leave it over night. The next day my machine was still hung on that One minute left. So obviously it was a failure. Of course now the problem is I have an install that never completed of the OS and so that partition is, I assume, unbootable. Wiped away the Tiger OS and did a 99% install of Leopard. So I had to shut down by holding the power button.
I think to myself, "No worries I can just boot from my 2nd partition holding down the Option key to select it on the boot up screen". I always keep a partition with an OS on it for times like these. So I reboot, hold option key, select my other partition, things look OK. I get the grey screen with the Apple logo and I get the wheel animation turning. (Not beachball of death but the typical circular, almost sun ray configuration thing) At this point, usually the screen will go black for a moment before the desktop loads. However, in my case once the screen goes black after the load screen, it stays black. Now let me say the monitor does NOT turn off. There is a definite difference when I manually turn the monitor off. When off it's truly black. But this is like a power on black, not true black. (If you need me to explain this better feel free to ask me to clarify)
So the untouched, pristine Tiger partition boot is a No Go. I figured I'd then give up on trying to put Leopard on my desktop machine (I use it on my laptop) and reinstall the original OS and system software from the system disk that came with my G5. I boot machine holding down eject button, place the disk in, close the drive door and shut down again by holding power button. Reboot holding C key and the same routine happens with booting from the disk. Gray Apple logo screen, sun ray circle moving, screen goes black on the attempted transition to desktop .. but stays black. I also tried booting with my Disk Warrior disk to no avail. Same thing happens. (Also tried booting from disks by selecting them manually from booting with Option key down) At first I wondered if it was a monitor issue. That maybe my desktop was up but there was an issue with the signal being passed to the monitor on the resolution jump. Thought perhaps hitting the Eject key on the keyboard when I had attempted to boot from the partition (not from disk on this test) would tell me if it was a monitor issue. If it was a monitor issue, the disk tray should open. But alas, no.
So since I cannot boot normally from any partition or disk I decided to boot into single-user mode.
I did the fsck -fy thing and it told me everything was ok. I had also previously installed applejack and I ran that and short of correcting a few permissions and dumping some unneeded caches it came back with a system OK.
At my wits end I booted into target disk mode and ran Disk Warrior on both the original half installed OS partition and the back up emergency boot up partition from my laptop. Again, everything OK. Hoped against hope that I could actually install an OS onto my G5 from my laptop but I was only given the option of being able to do it from my laptop with the Leopard disk and it would only allow me to do it if I used Disk Utility to completely format that drive first. No, thanks.
Re-attempt to boot G5. Failure. So now I turn to hardware. Disconnected everything beside the keyboard and mouse. Try again. Fail. Pulled a couple sticks of Crucial memory out of the machine and left the stock RAM. No dice. Pressed the small power unit reset button under the RAM slots. No change. Zapped the PRAM. Still nothing. Try to boot in Safe mode holding down shift key. Doesn't work.
It seems to me if I can't even get the machine to boot from the Install disk that there is something going on that is much more major than software issues.
Bad motherboard? Any ideas? Because I'm all out of ideas.

Brother, Sound74, I thought I was the only one pulling the hair out of my chest one by one the past two days. Your situation is very similar to mine, and I'm just as clueless as you are. I started getting kernel panic screens, then nothing on boot, until finally I brought it to the local genius bar. They ran all the usual software/hardware tests, updated Tiger to 10.4.11, recommended I buy Leopard and do an erase-install. My computer, of course, was working absolutely fine by this point. I bought Leopard, came home, backed everything up, then tried to install the new OS. Like in your case, it just up and quit half-way through. Screen went black and a "No DVI Signal" message came on my display (it does this when I turn it on without first turning on the computer).
So I thought, well, maybe it takes a really long time to erase-install, and the monitor is just waiting for things to kick back in. I've always upgrade-installed before, so I couldn't tell if this was normal or not. But about half an hour later, my fans kicked in so fast I thought I had a P-51 Mustang taking off in my studio. I waited a bit more and finally force-shut-down my system. Not knowing what to expect, I nervously tried to re-boot.
Nothing. Zip. I can't safe boot, I can't boot from the installer disc, etc. The only thing I can do is the option-key thing whereby you choose the startup disc. And of course, it only gives the Leopard install disc as an option, because now the entire HD has been erased! But when I choose the Leopard disc, of course it doesn't work.
So I have a nice $3000 paperweight sitting in my studio. I guess I'll have to bring it back to the Mac store, where if it costs more than $300 to fix, I'm going to say screw it and put that dough toward a new iMac.
Sorry I couldn't provide any helpful info, but I just wanted you to know you're not alone in suffering the slings and arrows of outrageous technology.
Keep me posted on any solutions you discover, and I'll do the same.
Noochy1
PS My applecare expired a month ago! AAAAARRRRGGGHHHH!!! **** Murphy and his stupid laws.

Windows 7 Crashes/Freezes when playing ANY Video files

lets see can anyone get their head around this one as it is driving me round the bend.
So... I have a media centre PC connected to my HDTV by VGA cable. I ran the PC on XP for a long time but last December, I upgraded it to Windows 7
along with my laptop.
Cue 5 months of seamless media usage and network integration - it
worked like a dream and I played both HD and SD content with ease.
About two weeks ago, I was watching an HD '.mkv' file in Windows Media Centre and about 10 minutes into the video, the video file just Froze - both the video and the audio. I had to power down and restart the machine and started the video file again. About
5 minutes after re-starting the video file, it hung again (not at the same place in the video). I then went and watched the video on my laptop where
it worked fine.
A few days after this (first time I had used it again since it hung up) I began watching an SD '.avi' file. About 1 minute into the video the display lost it's signal (the little built in 'no signal' graphic came up) and after a further 15 seconds, the audio
cut out as well.
This latter behaviour is now happening every single time I try to watch any kind of SD or HD video of any file extention. This problem is also independant of what video player I use (windows media centre and windows media player classic) After a minute or so
the display cuts out and the audio quickly follows it.
Suffice to say, I was a little annoyed but knowing a good bit about computers I
decided to try and solve the problem taking the following steps.
1) I uninstalled all my codecs and reinstalled the latest version of the K-Lite Codec pack. The latest version has support for windows 7 so I doubt its a compatibility issue here. After doing this the problem still persisted, exactly the same as before.
2) I checked the date of the drivers for my video card (MSI nVidia 6200) and seen that they were dated sept 2009. I went onto the nVidia site and found the latest win7 drivers dated april 2010 - I installed these but still the problem is there.
3) I then thought, maybe its a problem with the actual video card hardware itself. When I built my machine the parts supplier accidentally
sent me two of the same video card so I swapped out the existing one for a brand spanking new version of the same card. The problem is still EXACTLY the same.
So yes -I am rather annoyed and frustrated at the moment as I have absolutely no idea what is wrong with the machine and how it went from working to not working almost overnight.
I'd like to add also that the display is perfect when doing anything else on the computer - I can surf, play youtube videos, listen to music etc and it is absolutely no problem.
Put on a video and it cuts out the display like I have explained.
halp.

Hello Tim,
I decided to do a clean install, a fresh new installation of windows and all its updates, I didn't get the option of
install SP1 yet.
After that I only installed Catalyst drivers: 11.5 and Realtek HD audio drivers, all downloaded on May 24 2011.
Then latest FFDShow and MPC-HC to test, both x64 versions Nothing else installed.
Only a fresh copy of windows with its updates and those mentioned drivers.
To my surprise, it happened a gain.
It still crashes after a while when playing MKV videos.
It's weird, because it doesn't happen with avi's or mp4's.
So, there must be something wrong with one of windows updates that creates this windows FREEZE.
Also there is no possibility to find out what error it is in "Event Viewer" as nothing gets recorded there. Anyone could
advise?
Thanks

Can't get video monitor to work

I inherited the JVC TM-A101G, but I can't seem to get a picture on it (well, I did once, but the next time I logged on it had disappeared again).
Here's my setup:
I use a Panasonic mini-DV camcorder as my "deck"
Firewire from the camcorder to the G4
Firewire from the G4 to a DAC 200 converter
S-video from the DAC200 to the JVC monitor
What do all those connections get me? A blank screen on the video monitor. Can anyone help?

Yeah, Final Cut Pro is REALLY confused as to what device to send or receive a signal.
Camera...or deck...or converter. ONE ONLY.
Shane

Hooking up to HDTV

I hooked up my laptop that has a blue ray player and an HDMI port to a HDTV. It doesn't look right. Does the signal that comes out of the laptop affect the 1080p on the HDTV? The HDTV is 120 hz and the laptop is 60 hz. I just figured the signal that came out of the laptop would match the HDTV.

That's called extended desktop mode. It's a logical extension of the desktop to the right of your monitor. Just drag your app off the right side of the monitor and it will appear on the TV.
These setting are found in System Preferences > Displays > Arrangement tab.
Edit: A quick way to toggle between extended desktop mode and mirror mode is to press CMD F1

Capture card

Hi,
I would like to capture my imac's screen with my macbook pro. (they both have thunderbolt connections.)
I would like to record some gameplay and stream.
What capture card would you recommend?
And what quality would be fine recording?
Specs:
MacBook Pro (Retina, 13-inch, Mid 2014)
2,8 GHz Intel Core i5
8 GB 1600 MHz DDR3
Intel Iris 1536 MB
iMac (21,5-inch, Mid 2011)
2,5GHz Intel core i5
4GB 1333 MHz DDR3
AMD Radeon HD 6750M 512 MB
Thanks!

I know TONS about capture cards. More than most here. Pretty much all of them are designed to take a video signal out from your editing software (FCP, Avid, Adobe...etc) and output that to an HDTV or broadcast monitor...or tape deck. Either mounted in the computer (MacPro Towers...the old silver cheese graters) or connected via Thunderbolt. They don't take a feed from your desktop or games...they only work with editing software...take what you are looking at in the VIEWER and PROGRAM monitor and feed that to external monitoring...via HDMI or SDI or Component cables. They also take SDI, HDMI and Component signals from cameras or decks and capture that in the editing software
What you want to do is take the monitor signal....computer display signal...and send that to another computer so you can capture it. You need something that captures the DVI or Thunderbolt output into editing software. The issue is....there isn't a card that does that. First off, the capture cards are designed to bring in broadcast type signals...not computer ones. So frame sizes of 1920x1080 or 1280x720. Computer signals are like 1600x1200 or other odd frame sizes. No capture card captures that into editing software...as editing software captures only broadcast signals. Yes, there are a few that will work with computer frame sizes (Adobe Premiere)...but only if the files already exist. They won't capture those frame sizes via a capture card.
There is a SCAN CONVERTER type card...Matrox makes one. But what it does is convert your computer display to a broadcast signal. So it'll take a region of interest...a part of the computer display...and using broadcast frame sizes, output a signal to HDMI or SDI for capture by a deck or playback to a monitor....or streaming out of a web streaming device.
http://www.matrox.com/video/en/products/convert_dvi_plus/
I guess you would then need TWO devices...the scan converter to convert the desktop signal to a broadcast one...and then a capture card on the other computer to capture that into your editing software. Decklink.com has a lot of inexpensive capture cards for this. I suggest looking at the Ultrastudio Mini Recorder for this:
https://www.blackmagicdesign.com/products/ultrastudiothunderbolt
I am not aware of a single capture card/device that will take the computer signal from one computer, and convert that to a broadcast signal and capture it with editing software. Now...I'm a broadcast TV editor, so my knowledge is limited to that...so there might be such hardware.

No Signal No Camera

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