No Toast after 10.4.4 ?

Folks ... I have reinstalled & updated Toast to 6.1.1.
I have a LaCie DVD/CD RW burner and an old QUE!Fire CD burner.
Both are Firewire and both have been working perfectly.
Both appear to start to burning process just fine ... and then after "Verifying Items" ... nothing but the spinning color wheel appears and spins & spins.
It is as if the program hangs up.
All of the computers I have access to have already been upgraded to 10.4.4 and are working flawlessly otherwise.
So what gives !!
---alan

One thing you can always rely on is deleting the preferences and trying to run it again. You should have a couple of files in your home directory Library/Preferences: com.roxio.Toast.plist and maybe also Roxio Toast Prefs . Move those to another location, also check the systems preferences directory , /Library/Preferences/
Also, try burning a disk in finder to determine whether the problem is with your drive and tiger.... or.. whether it's a toast problem.

Similar Messages

IMac toast after OS 10.6.7 update

My Mac keeps getting grey screen with "you must restart" dialog on startup. I ran Restore from Time Machine from OS Install disk. After system said I had successfully restored the system (which would have been in 10.6.6) I still get the grey screen. I then ran AHT (short and long version) and no hardware issues were identified. I also checked permissions, re-zapped the PRAM. No peripheral devices are installed (except the Time Machine HD...which I only connected via USB when directed during the supposed restore). The last thing I tried was to start in my boot camp partition - and that works just fine. Windows XP came up normal. So, my conclusion is the OS-X partion is toast...and that this is a software issue. The last thing I did before all this crap started was do the 10.6.7 update. Been using macs since 1992 when System 7.5 came out. This is the first time I ever had anything like this. You'd think it was friggin' Vista. Any ideas before I do an erase and install from my 10.5.6 disk?

System is back up. Had to resort to Archive and Install. But I did not have the option to check the box for preserving settings - it was greyed out. Important data files were available in the Previous Systems folder.
So I now have my machine running in OS X 10.5.6 from original install DVD. Now on to getting Snow Leopard upgrade again and all the applications running.
I won't ever do an Mac OS update again without a backup immediately prior. Interesting that my PC laptop has been running since 2006 with all the bloated XP and MS Office updates - and never anything remotely close to this calamity.
Some posters have (correctly) suggested 10.6.7 had a resource conflict with something else. But I still am dubious - the 10.6.6 update was sometime earlier this year - January I think. The iMAC that crashed had no new applications added since then, no hardware changes; nothing except data in and out, and Apple updates for various apps like iTunes, Safari, etc.
Anyway, I now treat Apple products with same jaundiced view as I do Microsoft.

Keystation 49e toasted after installing Jam Pack

I have an M-audio Keystation 49e that I have used mostly for music composition using my iBook and a nice shareware program, Melody Assistant. Lately my son has been using the keyboard a lot for composition on an iMac using GargageBand. He has been desperate for a JamPack to get better souunds, so I got him the Orchestral JamPack for his Birthday yesterday. The sounds are indeed excellent. However, a little while (~30 min) after installing the JamPack, the keyboard stopped working, first intermittently, like when changing an instrument, then completely. No sound, no indicator lights, nothing getting recorded. Thinking it was a driver problem, I installed the latest M-audio driver I could find (3.1) but no dice. Hoping to debug the issue, I plugged the keyboard into my iBook and now it doesn't work there either! When I try to use Melody Assistant, a weird error message comes up saying "An OS X midi driver has been recognized but gives do information about output destination." I tried our other iMac (without the new JamPack installed), and it doesn't work there either. Looking at the USB section under "About this Mac", the keyboard is being recognized correctly, but it does not seem to be able to send notes to any program on any of our macs. It seems like installing the JamPack has somehow broken the keyboard, but I have no idea how this could be or what to do about it. Any suggestions appreciated!
Intel imac Mac OS X (10.4.8)

The M-Audio driver is irrelevant: it is used to recognize extra controls on the more advanced keyboards. The 49e does not require a driver.
Since the keyboard doesn't work on another computer either it seems unlikely that the Jam Pack has got anything to do with it. I would suspect a hardware fault in the keyboard or the lead. Try replacing the USB lead first, then if that doesn't help you may need to see if you can get a repair.

Toast and DVDSP

Just a quick and easy (dumb) question.
I often see several of you menion that it is better to burn in Toast than in DVDSP. I am interested in buying Toast if that is true.
My question: how do the interfaces work together? When burning a DVD in Toast, do you just use the Video_TS folder created with DVDSP, or is there an option in DVDSP to burn with Toast after it is installed?
Thanks!
Mike

Mike:
The best workflow I found is Creating Disc Image in DVDSP and burning it with Toast. But you can burn the image file with Disk Utility too.
Another option is using the VIDEO_TS folder in the Video option of Toast to build a DVD from a VIDEO_TS folder.
There is no connection between DVDSP and Toast, you must use one after another, but using Toast you can set burning speed and set copy quantities.
You'll find a detailed description of the workflow in the link.
Besides that, Toast is a GREAT application.
Hope that helps !
Alberto

How can I make slides into movies to show on DVDs?

I have just scanned about a thousand of my 91 year old Dad's slides and have been trying to transfer them to discs, so that they can be easily played on a DVD player so that he doesn't have to go through that oldfashioned slide show procedure with the projector.
I scanned them, edited them using Photostudio and then dragged them into iMovie. 99 seemed to be the maximum number of photos I could get to burn onto a DVD. (Using Roxio Toast)
After a lot of trial and error, I thought I had done it successfully, but now find they don't work even as a slide show (clicking on from one to the other with the DVD remote), let alone as movies. I had arranged them into categories and made movies of about 50 each, with transitions.
The first major problem became apparent after the first few were done, when I realised that iMovie tends to prefer NTSC to PAL and sometimes reverts to NTSC of it's own accord. (I'm in Australia, where PAL is the standard)
I gave up on trying to select music to go with the photos, as when I tried to select the movie to burn, the music would not be there.
I found that about 10 seconds duration was best for each photo, and tried selecting all to add the same Ken Burns transition to each one. I thought by keeping each disc to only a few 'slide shows' of about 15 minutes duration each I had finally got it right, but apparently it won't play on Dad's DVD player.
I would like step-by-step instructions on exactly how I should go about this project, as it seems I will have to do it all again. Any help will be greatly appreciated.
ibook Mac OS X (10.3.9)

Casuarina,
It would really help if the machine you are using has iDVD. If it did you would use iMove to create slideshows then drag them into iDVD, customize the DVD with a them, music, etc. then burn the DVD.
You can also do all the slideshow (99 images each) right within iDVD, then burn the DVD.
Macs are great, but you need the right software, and iDVD is what you need to make DVDs.
There is a hack to be able to burn a DVd with iDVD using an external or non-supported burner.
There is more information in this thread
http://discussions.apple.com/thread.jspa?messageID=1198588&#1198588
Lori

Cannot burn DVD (using iDVD, and iMac G5 with Superdrive)

Hi. I'm trying to burn an iMovie onto a DVD-R (16x). I have an iMac G5 w/ Superdrive (PIONEER DVD-RW DVR-K04F). I have plenty of available disc space. iDVD goes through the entire burn process, then at the very end it spits out the disc with these errors:
The recording device reported the error #8: No additional sense information. (0x00, 0x00.)
The recording device reported the media error: Power calibration area error. (0x73, 0x03.)
Can someone PLEASE help me? What am I doing wrong?
THANK YOU!

Could be the brand of media you are using. Most users here find the most reliable to be Verbatim DVD-R.
Also, try burning at a lower speed.
Using 16x DVD media is fine - in fact it is difficult to buy any other - but there is a consensus in the Apple Support Forums that a slower burn is a better burn and that the most reliable brands are Verbatim, Maxell and Fuji, all DVD-R, burned at 2x or 4x (slow burns are better burns!). I always use Toast for burning.
I generally use Verbatim and when I can't get those, Fuji, and have never had a coaster from either.
Plenty of coasters in the early days from Sony, TDK and a few others.
The term "Best" means the fastest speed that the drive told Toast it can write to a specific disc. The drive's firmware and info on the disc decide what speed burns are available. When you press the speed setting button in Toast (after inserting a disc) you'll likely see some speeds in italics and some in bold face. The ones in bold face are supported by that media on that drive. The fastest one is what Toast calls Best.
Audio CDs in particular should be burned at the lowest supported speed.
Verification is a good indicator the disc is burned okay. However, other DVD players can still have problems with the disc. Media problems with various drives is not uncommon. Slower burning may reduce the chance of those problems, and is one of the reasons why RW (read/write) media is always rated slower than DVD-R.
There are some interesting facts here:
http://www.osta.org/technology/dvdqa/dvdqa4.htm and here:
http://www.osta.org/technology/dvdqa/dvdqa4.htm
But many will tell you that the 'slower burn is best' theory is outdated. Who really knows? At the end of the day, if your home-made DVD was verified by Toast and will play anywhere on anybody's DVD player, then that is the result we are all after!

Toshi SD-R5372 - doesn't recog CD R/Ws

This post contains a very detailed description of my troubleshooting steps and admittedly is a little long. I wanted to be thorough so apologies right up front, OK? Also, I can't find a forum for North America!
Here's an interesting situation. Have a Toshiba SD-R5372 combo drive on a ABit MB with an Athlon 64 with XP Pro, all up-to-date. Working fine up to about 6-8 weeks ago when it started to fail to recognize any CD R/Ws. I can't recall what I might have done or installed prior to noticing the failure. In BIOS, the optical drive is correctly identified as the Master on the Primary Channel (called Channel 1 on that screen). The HDD is a SATA drive and the BIOS identifies it correctly residing on Channel 3 (reserved for SATA use according to ABit). Insert a fresh out-of-the-package blank or a pre-recorded CD R/W (either made from this drive or my other one on machine B), and the activity light winks about 25-30 times then stays solid and only goes out when I eject the disk. The drive is connected using the last IDE connector on the cable and it is optioned as Master - all set up on the Primary IDE channel (channel 1).
In Windows, the drive is totally blocked - it just won't find the CD R/W disk. I can't see any files on a CD R/W disk (even though I know they're there), can't double click on it to get it to open. I can right click on the drive in Explorer and get the context menu to eject the disk. And if I try to copy some files, XP will create the temp file(s), throw up the "You have files to be written to the CD" bubble but on execution the Windows CD Writing Wizard on the second panel will say "There is no disk in the drive" and if I try to erase CD R/W (using Nero CD/DVD Speed), the disk is not ready, the drive is not home so the program grays out all functions.
I really worked hard trying to fix this! I'be looked all over the 'Net for an answer. First thing: Figured it's probably bad media (originally used Sony which have had no failures up to now), so I bought a stack of Maxells and then later Verbatims - still no go. Strangely it will read and write DVD /- R/Ws labelled from HP and Verbatim plus it will read and write to a variety CD-Rs, both blanks, music-homebrewed and commercially prep'd. No CD R/Ws though.
I realize there are two lasers involved. I cleaned the CD laser with a CD cleaning disk from Staples - no help. I'm reasonably sure the disk was spun because it's in a different position when I unload it. I tried a brand new IDE cable that came with the MB - no help. I left the case open all day thinking it was heat - no help. The ASUS branded power supply should be fine - it's rated at 550 W and again the combo drive works with all other media. I tried connecting it as the Master on the Secondary IDE channel - no help.
It is the only IDE drive in the system thanks to SATA. The next step was to purchase a completely new and completely different brand of combo DRIVE (Thank you Mr. Staples)!!! And now get this - After XP found new hardware and installed new drivers and reported everything was cool... same exact problem with that. Put the Toshiba back in. Uninstalled the Toshiba in Dev Mgr - rebooted - no help and XP did find and locate and successfully set up the drivers as expected. I've completely uninstalled my Nero 7.0 suite and I've also used the Nero cleaning tool - no help (Note: I left Nero CD/DVD Speed installed as the Nero cleaning tool didn't touch it). I've looked for other Roxio/Adaptec apps and as a safeguard, I've also run RoxieZap.
I've uninstalled Alcohol 120 which also then zapped the virtual drive crud - no help. ASPIchk shows no ASPI layer. Flashed the Toshiba firmware to the latest firmware set (TU56) - no help. (Are you noticing a pattern here...?) In the service console the IMAPI Service is automatically started - the IDE channels are all set to DMA mode. I updated the VIA chipset drivers using their latest Hyperion 4-in-1 IDE driver software - no change. Here's another experiment: I rebooted and as the POST goes through I insert a CD R/W disk and the drive winks but the activity light stays lit even before Windows XP presents the desktop.
There's something wrong at a very low level here... Is the drive toast after only a year? Remember, I already replaced it with another brand and got the same symptom.
Hope this makes sense. Anyway, I'd like some thoughts on this. Really miss not having this particular functionality. Thanks one and all!

Hello
Thanks for this detailed posting but I think it is wrong place for your problem because on this forum the most discussions are about notebooks.
I have read your posting carefully and have really no idea what you can do as next. Your troubleshooting is very impressive. If you Google a little bit around you will find a lot of topics on different forums about functionality discussions and troubleshooting.
Check also this forum http://community.compuserve.com/n/pfx/forum.aspx?webtag=ws-laptop maybe you can also post there.
Good luck!

How can I burn cds if I keep getting Medium Write Error?

I have tried burning several CDs, mostly Memorex and Sony. I've never really had problems before but now I do. I tried at first with maximum speed and it just tried to burn and then ejected it saying "Medium Write Error". Next I tried SEVERAL different burning speeds. Sometimes I would get the same error message, and other times it would act like it burned it but when I tried to play the songs on the CD it just skipped through all of them as if they didn't burn. PLEASE help!
MATSHITA DVD-R UJ-868:
Firmware Revision: KB19
Interconnect: ATAPI
Burn Support: Yes (Apple Shipping Drive)
Cache: 2048 KB
Reads DVD: Yes
CD-Write: -R, -RW
DVD-Write: -R, -R DL, -RW, +R, +R DL, +RW
Write Strategies: CD-TAO, CD-SAO, DVD-DAO
Media:
Type: CD-R
Blank: Yes
Erasable: No
Overwritable: Yes
Appendable: Yes
Write Speeds: 8x, 24x

brookieb90 wrote:
I have tried burning several CDs, mostly Memorex and Sony. I've never really had problems before but now I do. I tried at first with maximum speed and it just tried to burn and then ejected it saying "Medium Write Error". Next I tried SEVERAL different burning speeds. Sometimes I would get the same error message, and other times it would act like it burned it but when I tried to play the songs on the CD it just skipped through all of them as if they didn't burn. PLEASE help!
MATSHITA DVD-R UJ-868:
Firmware Revision: KB19
Interconnect: ATAPI
Burn Support: Yes (Apple Shipping Drive)
Cache: 2048 KB
Reads DVD: Yes
CD-Write: -R, -RW
DVD-Write: -R, -R DL, -RW, +R, +R DL, +RW
Write Strategies: CD-TAO, CD-SAO, DVD-DAO
Media:
Type: CD-R
Blank: Yes
Erasable: No
Overwritable: Yes
Appendable: Yes
Write Speeds: 8x, 24x
brookieb90 wrote:
I have tried burning several CDs, mostly Memorex and Sony. I've never really had problems before but now I do. I tried at first with maximum speed and it just tried to burn and then ejected it saying "Medium Write Error". Next I tried SEVERAL different burning speeds. Sometimes I would get the same error message, and other times it would act like it burned it but when I tried to play the songs on the CD it just skipped through all of them as if they didn't burn. PLEASE help!
MATSHITA DVD-R UJ-868:
Firmware Revision: KB19
Interconnect: ATAPI
Burn Support: Yes (Apple Shipping Drive)
Cache: 2048 KB
Reads DVD: Yes
CD-Write: -R, -RW
DVD-Write: -R, -R DL, -RW, +R, +R DL, +RW
Write Strategies: CD-TAO, CD-SAO, DVD-DAO
Media:
Type: CD-R
Blank: Yes
Erasable: No
Overwritable: Yes
Appendable: Yes
Write Speeds: 8x, 24x
brookieb90 wrote:
I have tried burning several CDs, mostly Memorex and Sony. I've never really had problems before but now I do. I tried at first with maximum speed and it just tried to burn and then ejected it saying "Medium Write Error". Next I tried SEVERAL different burning speeds. Sometimes I would get the same error message, and other times it would act like it burned it but when I tried to play the songs on the CD it just skipped through all of them as if they didn't burn. PLEASE help!
MATSHITA DVD-R UJ-868:
Firmware Revision: KB19
Interconnect: ATAPI
Burn Support: Yes (Apple Shipping Drive)
Cache: 2048 KB
Reads DVD: Yes
CD-Write: -R, -RW
DVD-Write: -R, -R DL, -RW, +R, +R DL, +RW
Write Strategies: CD-TAO, CD-SAO, DVD-DAO
Media:
Type: CD-R
Blank: Yes
Erasable: No
Overwritable: Yes
Appendable: Yes
Write Speeds: 8x, 24x
brookieb90 wrote:
I have tried burning several CDs, mostly Memorex and Sony. I've never really had problems before but now I do. I tried at first with maximum speed and it just tried to burn and then ejected it saying "Medium Write Error". Next I tried SEVERAL different burning speeds. Sometimes I would get the same error message, and other times it would act like it burned it but when I tried to play the songs on the CD it just skipped through all of them as if they didn't burn. PLEASE help!
MATSHITA DVD-R UJ-868:
Firmware Revision: KB19
Interconnect: ATAPI
Burn Support: Yes (Apple Shipping Drive)
Cache: 2048 KB
Reads DVD: Yes
CD-Write: -R, -RW
DVD-Write: -R, -R DL, -RW, +R, +R DL, +RW
Write Strategies: CD-TAO, CD-SAO, DVD-DAO
Media:
Type: CD-R
Blank: Yes
Erasable: No
Overwritable: Yes
Appendable: Yes
Write Speeds: 8x, 24x
HL-DT-ST DVDRW GS23N:
Firmware Revision: SB00
Interconnect: ATAPI
Burn Support: Yes (Apple Shipping Drive)
Cache: 2048 KB
Reads DVD: Yes
CD-Write: -R, -RW
DVD-Write: -R, -R DL, -RW, +R, +R DL, +RW
Write Strategies: CD-TAO, CD-SAO, CD-Raw, DVD-DAO
Media:
Type: CD-R
Blank: Yes
Erasable: No
Overwritable: Yes
Appendable: Yes
Write Speeds: 10x, 16x, 24x
Hey guys, having the same problem since the update..... QUITE! frustrating after a update, I have to admit.
Anyway so no burn button in Itunes but the option is there to "burn playlist" in file tab. Once I have started the burn at maximum speed 24x on Itunes around three times, Burn app and Toast after about a minute error would pop up saying problem *medium write error* then finished on all three apps. I tried around 3 cds on each app.
I opened my *system profiler* then *disk burning*it asked me to insert a blank disk and click refresh which is located in view tab. Once complete it showed my write speeds 10x, 16x, 24x. Now open BURN app then select which songs or files etc you would like to burn, drag them across. Click burn select burn speed ONLY SELECT 16x or 8x if 16x is not a option.
_*BURN APP*_ at slower writing speeds seems stable. After a little investigation through out my logs it looks as if certain permissions conflict from old version to new.
I hope this works for everyone!
Mateo

The burn failed because of a medium write error.

iDVD won't burn to my DVD player for some reason. So, I made a disk image, and am trying to now use disc utility to burn that.
I am getting the following error. I am using Apple branded DVD-Rs (yes, I still have some, bought a large amount of them in 2007). I have also tried TDK, Maxell, Verbatim and Sony media. I have cleaned the lens in my DVD player. The DVD mechanism plays movies just fine, and mounts disks bought commercially as movies, and burned on my PC.
I can burn to CD-R, but not to DVD-R. I can burn to CD out of itunes, but I can't burn to DVD out of iDVD, or with disk utility.
I get this message:
"The attempt to burn disc failed. The burn failed because of a medium write error."
Here is the info on my DVD-R from System Profiler:
MATSHITADVD-R UJ-857:
Model: MATSHITADVD-R UJ-857
Revision: HAEA
Serial Number:
Detachable Drive: No
Protocol: ATAPI
Unit Number: 0
Socket Type: Internal
Low Power Polling: Yes
Power Off: Yes
And here is what is says under 'Disc Burning':
MATSHITA DVD-R UJ-857:
Firmware Revision: HAEA
Interconnect: ATAPI
Burn Support: Yes (Apple Shipping Drive)
Cache: 2048 KB
Reads DVD: Yes
CD-Write: -R, -RW
DVD-Write: -R, -RW, +R, +RW
Write Strategies: CD-TAO, CD-SAO, DVD-DAO
Media:
Type: DVD-R
ID: RITEKF1
Blank: Yes
Erasable: No
Overwritable: Yes
Appendable: Yes
Write Speeds: 1x, 2x, 4x
This is an original 2006 2 ghz Core Duo 15" MacBook Pro.
i've tried TDK, Pioneer, Maxell and Generic DVD-R andT DVD-RW media, but always get this same error.
The log says:
Disk Utility: Burn started, Thu May 7 09:26:15 2009
Disk Utility: Burning to DVD-R (AN32) media with DAO strategy in MATSHITA DVD-R UJ-857 HAEA via ATAPI.
Disk Utility: Requested burn speed was 2x, actual burn speed is 2x.
Disk Utility: Burn underrun protection is supported, and enabled.
Disk Utility: Write (10), block: 0, count: 64 -> 3/11/00 Medium Error, Unrecovered read error
Disk Utility: Burn failed, Thu May 7 09:27:37 2009
Disk Utility: Burn sense: 3/11/00 Medium Error, Unrecovered read error
Disk Utility: Burn error: 0x8002006E The burn failed because of a medium write error.

I have also tried TDK, Maxell, Verbatim and Sony media
Me too. Out of that list the only brand that has NEVER produced a coaster (on the same burner as yours) is Verbatim DVD-R and Fuji DVD-R. All the others produced a 25-50% failure rate.
Have you tried burning at a slower speed?
Using 16x DVD media is fine - in fact it is difficult to buy any other - but there is a consensus in the Apple Support Forums that a slower burn is a better burn i.e. 2x or 4x (slow burns are better burns!). I always use Toast for burning.
The term "Best" means the fastest speed that the drive told Toast it can write to a specific disc. The drive's firmware and info on the disc decide what speed burns are available. When you press the speed setting button in Toast (after inserting a disc) you'll likely see some speeds in italics and some in bold face. The ones in bold face are supported by that media on that drive. The fastest one is what Toast calls Best.
Audio CDs in particular should be burned at the lowest supported speed.
Verification is a good indicator the disc is burned okay. However, other DVD players can still have problems with the disc. Media problems with various drives is not uncommon. Slower burning may reduce the chance of those problems, and is one of the reasons why RW (read/write) media is always rated slower than DVD-R.
There are some interesting facts here:
http://www.osta.org/technology/dvdqa/dvdqa4.htm and here:
http://www.osta.org/technology/dvdqa/dvdqa4.htm
But many will tell you that the 'slower burn is best' theory is outdated. Who really knows? At the end of the day, if your home-made DVD was verified by Toast and will play anywhere on anybody's DVD player, then that is the result we are all after!

Popcorn quits unexpectedly. EVERYTIME

Why when i drag VIDEO_TS Folder into popcorn does the program close.
I get the error "the application Popcorn quit unexpectedly"
I used Mac The Ripper to extract the video files which i wanted to back up to a secure dvd rw disk
please help!!!
thank you
power book g4 aluminum 1.67 ghz

Rich,
I was having a similar problem with Toast, after an upgrade. I uninstalled the application, reinstalled it, and redid the update, and all is well.
A quick look on the Roxio support site for Popcorn shows someone with a similar situation, with one recommendation to ensure they are at the current 1.0.3 release. The Popcorn forum is located at: http://boards.support.roxio.com/roxio/board?board.id=Popcorn&page=10 There's a note that they are wiping the forums sometime before Jan 1st, so, if you haven't already, you may want to look it over soon.

Disc recording log; Finder: Write (10), block: 4294967146, count: 32 - 3/73/03 Medium Error, Power calibration area error, Burn failed

Hello All Apple Heads (Brit. short for headmaster or headmistress.)!
My MATSHITA DVD-R UJ-846
(Firmware Revision: FQ3T, ATAPI, Burn Support: Yes [Apple Shipping Drive], Cache: 2048 KB, Reads DVD: Yes, CD-Write: -R, -RW, DVD Write:-R, -RW, +R, +R DL, +RW, Write Strategies: CD-TAO, CD-SAO, DVD-DAO), optical super drive is unable to burn on any CD or DVD.
The Disc Recording log list below writes: "Finder: Write (10), block: 4294967146, count: 32 -> 3/73/03 Medium Error, Power calibration area error, Burn failed".
DiscRecording.log:
Description:          Disc recording log
Size:          2 KB
Last Modified:          11-09-15 4:50 PM
Location: /Users/-/Library/Logs/DiscRecording.log
Recent Contents:          Finder: Burn started, Thu Sep 15 16:40:47 2011
Finder: Burning to CD-R media with SAO strategy in MATSHITA DVD-R   UJ-846 FQ3T via ATAPI.
Finder: Requested burn speed was max, actual burn speed is 24x.
Finder: Burn underrun protection is supported, and enabled.
Finder: Write (10), block: 4294967146, count: 32 -> 3/73/03 Medium Error, Power calibration area error
Finder: Burn failed, Thu Sep 15 16:41:57 2011
Finder: Burn sense: 3/73/03 Medium Error, Power calibration area error
Finder: Burn error: 0x8002006D The disc can't be burned; it might be incompatible with this disc drive. Please try a different brand of disc, or try burning at a slower speed.
Finder: Burn started, Thu Sep 15 16:43:37 2011
Finder: Burning to CD-R media with SAO strategy in MATSHITA DVD-R   UJ-846 FQ3T via ATAPI.
Finder: Requested burn speed was 8x, actual burn speed is 8x.
Finder: Burn underrun protection is supported, and enabled.
Finder: Burn finished, Thu Sep 15 16:49:31 2011
Finder: Verify started, Thu Sep 15 16:49:31 2011
Finder: Verify failed, Thu Sep 15 16:50:20 2011
Finder: Verify sense: 3/02/00 Medium Error, No seek complete
Finder: Verify error: 0x80020063 Verifying the burned data failed.
Can this issue be solved by means of firmware/updates, terminal command lines, or through other open source OS?
Is this issue related to lense cleanliness?
Much thanks!
Sam
Message was edited by: saltislandsam

I have also tried TDK, Maxell, Verbatim and Sony media
Me too. Out of that list the only brand that has NEVER produced a coaster (on the same burner as yours) is Verbatim DVD-R and Fuji DVD-R. All the others produced a 25-50% failure rate.
Have you tried burning at a slower speed?
Using 16x DVD media is fine - in fact it is difficult to buy any other - but there is a consensus in the Apple Support Forums that a slower burn is a better burn i.e. 2x or 4x (slow burns are better burns!). I always use Toast for burning.
The term "Best" means the fastest speed that the drive told Toast it can write to a specific disc. The drive's firmware and info on the disc decide what speed burns are available. When you press the speed setting button in Toast (after inserting a disc) you'll likely see some speeds in italics and some in bold face. The ones in bold face are supported by that media on that drive. The fastest one is what Toast calls Best.
Audio CDs in particular should be burned at the lowest supported speed.
Verification is a good indicator the disc is burned okay. However, other DVD players can still have problems with the disc. Media problems with various drives is not uncommon. Slower burning may reduce the chance of those problems, and is one of the reasons why RW (read/write) media is always rated slower than DVD-R.
There are some interesting facts here:
http://www.osta.org/technology/dvdqa/dvdqa4.htm and here:
http://www.osta.org/technology/dvdqa/dvdqa4.htm
But many will tell you that the 'slower burn is best' theory is outdated. Who really knows? At the end of the day, if your home-made DVD was verified by Toast and will play anywhere on anybody's DVD player, then that is the result we are all after!

Audio Delayed When Exporting To Camera

When exporting the movie to my camera, the audio is not quite synced with the video on the Mini-DV tape. I have determined the offset to be about 8 frames. If I then import that video, extract the audio, and then move it to the left 8 frames, it is then synced with the video again. If I encode the project with Toast after I have it synced, and then play the result on the Mac with the DVD Player, it is fine. But if I export it to the camera again, the audio is shifted again on the Mini-DV tape. I have a G4 dual 450 Mhz running OS 10.4 (the latest) with the latest version of iMovie and exporting to a Sony DCR-TRV900 via the firewire.

"..When recording it back to Mini-DV tape this way, is there a significant amount of loss of data even though it is coming over the firewire connection vs the normal export function?.."
No data loss, Gary. This is the proper way to export your edited movie.
You DO get data loss when transferring to a DVD, as a DVD is encoded differently from DV ..the MPEG encoding of a DVD involves compression of the data, leaving only information about the differences between frames of video, instead of keeping the content of all the frames.
You DON'T have any such loss when exporting ('Saving') back to miniDV tapes, as the exact same data which was copied from the tapes, when importing into iMovie, is sent back out to a tape.
There's no data loss, and there should be no audio delay. You can then import again from such a tape and there'll still be no loss. But re-importing from a DVD will produce data loss, as the decompression from MPEG to DV cannot completely rebuild all the data which was in the compressed MPEG data stream on the DVD.
So save your edited work back to tape, Gary, in case you ever need to 'reprise' it, and only create DVDs for sending through the mail, or to present your video with fancy interactive menus, or so that you can easily find particular 'chapters' in your video.

USB on G4 PB broken for RAID?

Hello :
I've found neither "Disk Utility" nor "SoftRAID" are able to create a reliable "mirror RAID". Both exterior drives are new, identical 500 gB barracudas in WiebeTech SilverSata cases. (USB & SATA ports only). No other devices on the USB ports. The computer is a 12" powerbook about two years old.
I was prompted to attempt RAID because a previous, USB external 500 gB drive I used for backup was toast after a mere two months!
Has anyone else run into USB/drive problems?
DW

I have never had trouble using Apple's or SoftRAID's, but I would never use it on USB. SCSI and SATA, yes. ATA, ONLY if EACH drive is on its OWN channel (not shared with another drive, same for FireWire).
USB 1.1 is too slow AND is very cpu intensive (25%) and poor on PPC.
Both drives need to be on identically performing interfaces, FW400 is faster than your internal drive ATA but "might" work. USB 2.0 even might. Do you have USB2? If not, time for MacBook Pro or something maybe. Better spend the money there than SoftRAID ($149).

DVD burning speed dropped

I have a powerbook and when i first got it and went to burn a dvd i had the option of a drop down menu box and it would show up to 8x for burning. Using the same media when i go to burn in the box it just goes to 2x anyone have a clue as what happen?
Thanks
Paul

In Toast you can select the burn speed you want up to the maximum your Superdrive will allow.
But there is a lot to be said for using lower burn speeds: 2x or 4x max.
Using 16x DVD media is fine - in fact it is difficult to buy any other - but there is a consensus in the Apple Support Forums that a slower burn is a better burn and that the most reliable brands are Verbatim, Maxell and Fuji, all DVD-R, burned at 2x or 4x (slow burns are better burns!). I always use Toast for burning.
I generally use Verbatim and when I can't get those, Fuji, and have never had a coaster from either.
Plenty of coasters in the early days from Sony, TDK and a few others.
The term "Best" means the fastest speed that the drive told Toast it can write to a specific disc. The drive's firmware and info on the disc decide what speed burns are available. When you press the speed setting button in Toast (after inserting a disc) you'll likely see some speeds in italics and some in bold face. The ones in bold face are supported by that media on that drive. The fastest one is what Toast calls Best.
Audio CDs in particular should be burned at the lowest supported speed.
Verification is a good indicator the disc is burned okay. However, other DVD players can still have problems with the disc. Media problems with various drives is not uncommon. Slower burning may reduce the chance of those problems, and is one of the reasons why RW (read/write) media is always rated slower than DVD-R.
There are some interesting facts here:
http://www.osta.org/technology/dvdqa/dvdqa4.htm and here:
http://www.osta.org/technology/dvdqa/dvdqa4.htm
But many will tell you that the 'slower burn is best' theory is outdated, as in this useful article:
http://www.digitalfaq.com/guides/media/dvd-media-concepts.htm
Who really knows? At the end of the day, if your home-made DVD was verified by Toast and will play anywhere on anybody's DVD player, then that is the result we are all after!

DVD-R speed - an issue? (simple question)

(I am about to upgrade to OS 10.5, so want to back up all my docs first).
I was going to buy some DVD-Rs to do this. However, I see that many of the DVDs in the stores are rated faster than the drive in my iMac. These DVDs bear a warning that they may be incompatible with slower drives. Please excuse my ignorance, but is this an issue?
I've got the white Intel 2 GHZ slot loading iMac. Can't even remember what speed the DVD drive is (8x rings a bell)

Hi GGG and welcome to the forums!
These DVDs bear a warning that they may be incompatible with slower drives. Please excuse my ignorance, but is this an issue?
No, not in my opinion.
Using 16x DVD media is fine - in fact it is difficult to buy any other - but there is a consensus in the Apple Support Forums that a slower burn is a better burn and that the most reliable brands are Verbatim, Maxell and Fuji, all DVD-R, burned at 2x or 4x (slow burns are better burns!). I always use Toast for burning.
I generally use Verbatim and when I can't get those, Fuji, and have never had a coaster from either.
Plenty of coasters in the early days from Sony, TDK and a few others.
The term "Best" means the fastest speed that the drive told Toast it can write to a specific disc. The drive's firmware and info on the disc decide what speed burns are available. When you press the speed setting button in Toast (after inserting a disc) you'll likely see some speeds in italics and some in bold face. The ones in bold face are supported by that media on that drive. The fastest one is what Toast calls Best.
Audio CDs in particular should be burned at the lowest supported speed.
Verification is a good indicator the disc is burned okay. However, other DVD players can still have problems with the disc. Media problems with various drives is not uncommon. Slower burning may reduce the chance of those problems, and is one of the reasons why RW (read/write) media is always rated slower than DVD-R.
There are some interesting facts here:
http://www.osta.org/technology/dvdqa/dvdqa4.htm and here:
http://www.osta.org/technology/dvdqa/dvdqa4.htm
But many will tell you that the 'slower burn is best' theory is outdated. Who really knows? At the end of the day, if your home-made DVD was verified by Toast and will play anywhere on anybody's DVD player, then that is the result we are all after!

No Toast after 10.4.4 ?

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