No Touchscreen avaible if the battery is loading
When I have to load the battery, I can't touch the screen - nothing is in function. Par example I will put my password - I can''t do it because the touch to the number "2" not avaible, two three times the number "5" is on.
I can't touch the screen like month ago. I don't know what's happening?
when the battery is full and I take the elektricity away all function are okay.
The mistake is only when I have my Iphone at the electricity.
It will be very interesting to know why this failure is happend and how I can do the reparation.
Thank you for the answer of my question.
Ursula Salamina
Its difficult to say. reset and restore the phone according to the instruction manual. if it still gives the problem, it may be a hardware fault.
Similar Messages
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I have a issue with my mac book pro. For some reason it won't stay powered on. I can't get past the apple loading logo. The battery is fully charged so it is not the problem. Can anyone tell me what the problem may be and how can i get it resolved?
The battery is fully charged so it is not the problem.
What happens when you use the MagSafe? -
Hello I have a problem with my ipod touch 1G the problem is that see me key to the floor! And when recogi not prendia after 5 minutes prendio but it gave to me the surprise of which the battery had finished completely! What I did was to set it to load with the USB but do not load the battery me the icon of the battery appear and below of her the beam that indicates that this being loaded but this way I have left it the whole yesterday and what goes of today and continues without loading anything! They can help me porfavor I am grateful for them to him very much! And my PC does not detect it not itunes
Try the not-charging topic of:
iPod touch: Hardware troubleshooting
It could be that the battery is dead. -
I have upgraded my iPod touch and it didnt respond to the upgrade. Cant remember which iOS i was upgrading but when i try to switch it on the apple logo comes up but than it just goes to the loading logo until the battery life is gone. I have tried restarting it , that doesnt work. I need help i am lost without my ipod please help. Any ideas besides restarting it ?
Try:
- iOS: Not responding or does not turn on
- Also try DFU mode after try recovery mode
How to put iPod touch / iPhone into DFU mode « Karthik's scribblings
- If not successful and you can't fully turn the iOS device fully off, let the battery fully drain. After charging for an least an hour try the above again.
- Try another cable
- Try on another computer
- If still not successful that usually indicates a hardware problem and an appointment at the Genius Bar of an Apple store is in order.
Apple Retail Store - Genius Bar -
The battery on my iphone load, soil load off?
the battery on my iphone load, soil load off?
Sorry, but you might have to explain your problem a little more, by giving us some details.
See these steps for troubleshooting battery or charging issues. -
Hi
Im currently doing a project using LabVIEW and myDAQ where i have to use the solar cell to charge the battery and turn on the load ( LED) when there is light
and once the the solar cell is unable to detect the light , the battery will power the load instead of the solar cell
i am having some problems with labview programing ( unable to work )
Does anyone has something similar that i could reference to ?
ThanksGood to see that you found the LabVIEW forum, but you have not added any more information than what you posted on the Reddit LabVIEW forum.
The people here will also need more information about what is not working, be as specific as possible. I will also repeat that you can replace the inputs with controls and the outputs to indicators so you have more control over the code to test it. Then introduce the real IO when you have the code working like you want it to.
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Help me, my ipod is freaking out! It has the apple screen with a white loading sign that never moves. After about 19-20 seconds it flicks to my lock screen but i can't do anything with my lock screen and then it flickers back to the apple sign... WHATS GOING ON?!?!?!?!
Try here.
iOS: Not responding or does not turn on
If necessary,let the battery fully drain and then charge and try again. -
Is anyone having problems with the battery heating up and draining the power? Mine has been doing this for about 2 months now.
This is a major problem with Lollipop, but yo said it started 2 months ago. Several people have fixed problem by removing FaceBook And Face book messenger and then re loading the apps again. You might want to clear your cache before reloading. Not sure this is your problem, but worth a try. Good Luck
-
Mid-2013 Macbook Air: question about the battery life
First of all, I'm sorry if these questions have been already asked, I've looked around and I've seen some answers, but none that fit my specific case.
I have had this computer since December (Macbook Air, 13'', Mid-2013), I've been using it for a month now. At the beginning, I used to use it until my battery was low (between 10 and 20%) and then charge it. Then I learnt that it's better to keep it plugged as much as possible (I have read this in other discussions and on the Apple page). The problem is that my battery is no longer a 100% of its capacity according to Cococnut Battery. It started with 99%, then back to 100%, then 98, 97... and now it varies from 97 to 98 (right now it says that my computer's current capacity is 6948 mAH). I don't know if this is normal, or if this is caused by the use I used to give to my macbook air at the beginning or by any other thing. I also have 19 loadcycles already. Besides, I have noticed that sometimes it jumps form 100% to 99% of battery pretty fast when I don't have it plugged, and I'm not sure if that happened before.
This is my first time dealing with a macbook and I don't know how these things are supposed to work, and I'm worried my battery might have any kind of problem and that's why itdoesn't have full capacity anymore, since I've been using it for only a month.
Also, sometimes it takes a little while to shut down. It usually takes 2 seconds, but sometimes it takes longer, maybe 20 seconds (first the screen turn white, then the loading icon appears and then it finally shuts down). Is this normal too for macbook airs?
Thanks for the help!Those are only averages, for purposes of the battery 97 98 99 and 100 are the 'same thing'........theyre all estimates.
Normal on shut down, sometimes you can see a few seconds, sometimes 10, 15 seconds shut down.....depends on what and HOW much its shutting down before poweroff. Normal.
ON BATTERY USE:
Keep it plugged in when near a socket so you keep the charging cycles down on your LiPo (lithium polymer) cells / battery, but not plugged in all the time. When not being used for several hours, turn it off.
http://www.apple.com/batteries/notebooks.html
"Apple does not recommend leaving your portable plugged in all the time."
General rule to remember of Lithium batteries is:
Never drain them LOW & dont always/often store them HIGH
While cycle count is commonly seen to be the “miles” on your Lithium Ion pack cell in your Macbook, which they are, this distinction is not a fine line at all, and it is a big misconception to “count charge cycles”
*A person who has, for example, 300 charge cycles on their battery and is recharging at say 50-60% remaining of a 100% charge has better battery usage and care than another person who has 300 charge cycles at say 15% remaining on a 100% charge.
DoD (depth of discharge) is far more important on the wear and tear on your Macbook battery than any mere charge cycle count. *There is no set “mile” or wear from a charge cycle in general OR in specific. As such, contrary to popular conception, counting cycles is not conclusive whatsoever, rather the amount of deep DoD on an averaged scale of its use and charging conditions.
(as a very rough analogy would be 20,000 hard miles put on a car vs. 80,000 good miles being something similar)
*Contrary to some myths out there, there is protection circuitry in your Macbook and therefore you cannot overcharge it when plugged in and already fully charged
*However if you don’t plan on using it for a few hours, turn it OFF (plugged in or otherwise) ..*You don’t want your Macbook both always plugged in AND in sleep mode (When portable devices are charging and in the on or sleep position, the current that is drawn through the device is called the parasitic load and will alter the dynamics of charge cycle. Battery manufacturers advise against parasitic loading because it induces mini-cycles.)
Keeping batteries connected to a charger ensures that periodic "top-ups" do very minor but continuous damage to individual cells, hence Apples recommendation above: “Apple does not recommend leaving your portable plugged in all the time”, …this is because “Li-ion degrades fastest at high state-of-charge”.
This is also the same reason new Apple notebooks are packaged with 50% charges and not 100%.
LiPo (lithium polymer, same as in your Macbook) batteries do not need conditioning. However...
A lot of battery experts call the use of Lithium cells the "80% Rule" ...meaning use 80% of the charge or so, then recharge them for longer overall life.
Never let your Macbook go into shutdown and safe mode from loss of power, you can corrupt files that way, and the batteries do not like it.
The only quantified abuse seen to Lithium cells are instances when often the cells are repeatedly drained very low…. key word being "often"
Contrary to what some might say, Lithium batteries have an "ideal" break in period. First ten cycles or so, don't discharge down past 40% of the battery's capacity. Same way you don’t take a new car out and speed and rev the engine hard first 100 or so miles.
Proper treatment is still important. Just because LiPo batteries don’t need conditioning in general, does NOT mean they dont have an ideal use / recharge environment. Anything can be abused even if it doesn’t need conditioning.
From Apple on batteries:
http://support.apple.com/kb/HT1446
http://www.apple.com/batteries/
Storing your MacBook
If you are going to store your MacBook away for an extended period of time, keep it in a cool location (room temperature roughly 22° C or about 72° F). Make certain you have at least a 50% charge on the internal battery of your Macbook if you plan on storing it away for a few months; recharge your battery to 50% or so every six months roughly if being stored away. If you live in a humid environment, keep your Macbook stored in its zippered case to prevent infiltration of humidity on the internals of your Macbook which could lead to corrosion.
Considerations:
Your battery is subject to chemical aging even if not in use. A Lithium battery is aging as soon as its made, regardless.
In a perfect (although impractical) situation, your lithium battery is best idealized swinging back and forth between 20 and 85% SOC (state of charge) roughly.
Further still how you discharge the battery is far more important than how it is either charged or stored short term, and more important long term that cycle counts.
Ultimately counting charge cycles is of little importance. Abuse in discharging (foremost), charging, and storing the battery and how it affects battery chemistry is important and not the ‘odometer’ reading, or cycle counts on the battery.
Everything boils down to battery chemistry long term, and not an arbitrary number, or cycle count.
Keep your macbook plugged in when near a socket since in the near end of long-term life, this is beneficial to the battery.
Peace -
Hello
I have a macbook pro 2011 13" that came with OS Lion (integrated not on a disk). I recently bought OS Mountain Lion of the app store and it is working fine. However I was a bit dissapointed in the battery so I decided to try and downgrade and completely failed, I froze the computer and when I restarted it it did not work. I went into recovery system and erased my disk and all that and went to re-download my OS. I was expecting to get the option to re-download Lion but instead I could only re-download Mountain Lion.
My question is since my computer originally came with Lion can I reset my computer so I get OS Lion back instead of OS Mountain Lion?
Thanks for any help. Any answer will be appreciated even if it is saying it is not possible.Boot to the Recovery HD:
Restart the computer and after the chime press and hold down the COMMAND and R keys until the menu screen appears. Alternatively, restart the computer and after the chime press and hold down the OPTION key until the boot manager screen appears. Select the Recovery HD and click on the downward pointing arrow button.
Erase the hard drive:
1. Select Disk Utility from the main menu and click on the Continue button.
2. After DU loads select your startup volume (usually Macintosh HD) from the left side list. Click on the Erase tab in the DU main window.
3. Set the format type to Mac OS Extended (Journaled.) Click on the Erase button and wait until the process has completed.
4. Quit DU and return to the main menu.
Reinstall Lion: Select Reinstall Lion and click on the Install button.
Note: You will need an active Internet connection. I suggest using Ethernet if possible because it is three times faster than wireless.
Kappy, a pretty wonderful and very knowledgeable man, has tip for that which I have copied and pasted above -
After upgrading to iOS 5.0.1 in my iPhone 4 the battery lasts less by a 30%, it´s only me?
After upgrading my iPhone 4 to iOS 5.0.1 the load of the battery lasts less by 30% with the same use it had before. So far I read the upgrade was to correct the battery duration flaw. So ¿What happened?
You only get one download of movies.
It is your responsibility to backup your purchases. -
My Other storage space was at 2.84 GB after i loaded all my music/apps onto a recently purchased 32 GB Ipod touch 5 Generation with iOS 6.1.3. Resetting the settings and removing the music and apps did not help reduce the Other space. I restored to a backup and got my Other storage space down to almost 400 MB. When I started syncing music it grew 500-ish MB. Each time I sync, the Other grows a bit more. This is really irritating.
The official listed available GB on my 32 GB is 28.22 GB (not including Other), so now I am irritated knowing that this Other is taking up my space when I didn't even have 32 GB of free space to begin with. So 28.22 - 2.84GB = 25.38 GB.
I want to restore to a new device to see if that helps, but do not want to upgrade to i0S7. Is there any way to do this?
If I upgrade to i0S 7 I am worried it might slow my ipod or drain the battery faster. Will it do that? The ipod is expensive and I dont want it to go downhill and obsolete on me because it can't handle a better operating system.Less than 1 1/5 GB is normal. It does grow with time.
What is the Other on my iPhone and How to Remove It -
My ipod touch seems to be jammed on the battery charging screen it has the spining symbol like its trying to load something. I cannot turn it off. I have tried hooking it up to itunes to reset it, but it seems to jam itunes as well. Any help would b much appreciated.
Try:
- Resetting the iPod:
Reset iPod touch: Press and hold the On/Off Sleep/Wake button and the Home
button at the same time for at least ten seconds, until the Apple logo appears.
- Then connecting it to your computer. If iTunes see it, restore the iPod via iTunes
- If no sceen in iTunes, see if placing the iPod in recovery mode will make it visible so you can restore it. For recvery mode see:
iPhone and iPod touch: Unable to update or restore
- Let, let the battery fully drain and then charger and try again. -
Con't
Apple claims that because I did not drain my battery frequently and kept it plugged in for extended periods of time, that it is my fault the battery is failing. I disagree because I was not ever told to consistently drain my battery before recharging or not to keep it on and plugs in for extended periods of time. I do keep my desktop computer on most of the time and that is why I have kept my Macbook air on for extended time periods. I feel that Applecare should cover this battey issue and not charge me for replacing the battey. I feel I should have been told to not keep my computer consistently running on with poweror the battery will fail. Has anyone had this problem? Apple should replace my battery under Apple care as my battery does not keep a charge anymore.
I'll wait to hear.You said---Apple claims that because I did not drain my battery frequently
You said--- I was not ever told to consistently drain my battery before recharging
You should never do that on purpose, whoever told you that had it wrong or you misunderstood something
Sure you dont have that backwards? thats exactly what you DONT want to do.
Did you often drain the battery very low? that would explain a lot.
Someone might have been misinformed about "battery calibration" regarding much older Macs with removable batteries (see bottom)
You said-----I do keep my desktop computer on most of the time and that is why I have kept my Macbook air on for extended time periods.
thats a problem there, youre not supposed to do that.
Keeping batteries connected to a charger ensures that periodic "top-ups" do very minor but continuous damage to individual cells, hence Apples recommendation above: “Apple does not recommend leaving your portable plugged in all the time”, …this is because “Li-ion degrades fastest at high state-of-charge”.
This is also the same reason new Apple notebooks are packaged with 50% charges and not 100%.
http://www.apple.com/batteries/notebooks.html
"Apple does not recommend leaving your portable plugged in all the time."
*If you don’t plan on using it for a few hours, turn it OFF (plugged in or otherwise) ..*You don’t want your Macbook both always plugged in AND in sleep mode (When portable devices are charging and in the on or sleep position, the current that is drawn through the device is called the parasitic load and will alter the dynamics of charge cycle. Battery manufacturers advise against parasitic loading because it induces mini-cycles.)
Keep it plugged in when near a socket so you keep the charging cycles down on your LiPo (lithium polymer) cells / battery, but not plugged in all the time. When not being used for several hours, turn it off.
And best "tip" is if its near a socket,...plug it in as long as you can (especially at home) since cycle count on the battery are the "miles that wear out the tires (battery)", however again, not plugged in all or most of the time.
General rule to remember of Lithium batteries is:
Never drain them LOW & dont always/often store them HIGH
While cycle count is commonly seen to be the “miles” on your Lithium Ion pack cell in your Macbook, which they are, this distinction is not a fine line at all, and it is a big misconception to “count charge cycles”
*A person who has, for example, 300 charge cycles on their battery and is recharging at say 50-60% remaining of a 100% charge has better battery usage and care than another person who has 300 charge cycles at say 15% remaining on a 100% charge.
DoD (depth of discharge) is far more important on the wear and tear on your Macbook battery than any mere charge cycle count. *There is no set “mile” or wear from a charge cycle in general OR in specific. As such, contrary to popular conception, counting cycles is not conclusive whatsoever, rather the amount of deep DoD on an averaged scale of its use and charging conditions.
(as a very rough analogy would be 20,000 hard miles put on a car vs. 80,000 good miles being something similar)
*Contrary to some myths out there, there is protection circuitry in your Macbook and therefore you cannot overcharge it when plugged in and already fully charged
LiPo (lithium polymer, same as in your Macbook) batteries do not need conditioning. However...
A lot of battery experts call the use of Lithium cells the "80% Rule" ...meaning use 80% of the charge or so, then recharge them for longer overall life.
Never let your Macbook go into shutdown and safe mode from loss of power, you can corrupt files that way, and the batteries do not like it.
The only quantified abuse seen to Lithium cells are instances when often the cells are repeatedly drained very low…. key word being "often"
Contrary to what some might say, Lithium batteries have an "ideal" break in period. First ten cycles or so, don't discharge down past 40% of the battery's capacity. Same way you don’t take a new car out and speed and rev the engine hard first 100 or so miles.
Proper treatment is still important. Just because LiPo batteries don’t need conditioning in general, does NOT mean they dont have an ideal use / recharge environment. Anything can be abused even if it doesn’t need conditioning.
From Apple on batteries:
http://support.apple.com/kb/HT1446
http://www.apple.com/batteries/
Storing your MacBook
If you are going to store your MacBook away for an extended period of time, keep it in a cool location (room temperature roughly 22° C or about 72° F). Make certain you have at least a 50% charge on the internal battery of your Macbook if you plan on storing it away for a few months; recharge your battery to 50% or so every six months roughly if being stored away. If you live in a humid environment, keep your Macbook stored in its zippered case to prevent infiltration of humidity on the internals of your Macbook which could lead to corrosion.
Considerations:
Your battery is subject to chemical aging even if not in use. A Lithium battery is aging as soon as its made, regardless.
In a perfect (although impractical) situation, your lithium battery is best idealized swinging back and forth between 20 and 85% SOC (state of charge) roughly.
Further still how you discharge the battery is far more important than how it is either charged or stored short term, and more important long term that cycle counts.
Ultimately counting charge cycles is of little importance. Abuse in discharging (foremost), charging, and storing the battery and how it affects battery chemistry is important and not the ‘odometer’ reading, or cycle counts on the battery.
Everything boils down to battery chemistry long term, and not an arbitrary number, or cycle count.
Keep your macbook plugged in when near a socket since in the near end of long-term life, this is beneficial to the battery.
Peace
Battery calibration, battery memory, battery overcharging, battery training, …all these concepts are mostly holdovers from much older battery technology, and on older Apple portable Macbooks ranging from early nicads, NiMh and otherwise; and these practices do not apply to your lithium battery and its smart controllers.
Calibrating the battery on older Apple portable Macbooks with removable batteries.
http://support.apple.com/kb/PH14087
There is no calibration of current Apple portable Macbooks with built-in batteries.
http://support.apple.com/ht1490
There is no battery calibration with current Apple portable Macbooks with built-in batteries. Lithium batteries have essentially a 0-‘memory’, and all such calibration involve the estimations fed to the system controller on the SOC (state of charge) of the battery over long periods of time as the battery degrades. The software based battery controller knows the battery's characteristics, or SOC and adjusts itself. This is why there is both no need and purpose to periodically deeply drain your macbook battery, since it doesn’t affect the characteristics of the battery, and further still deep discharges are something you should not do on purpose to any lithium battery. -
I upgraded my macbook pro from OS Lion to OS Mavericks. When unplugged, it heats up exceedingly and the battery life is extremely short. What to do?
Installation of the new OSX is very heavy hdd load, in addition spotlight reindexes all the files on your computer - it may be a few hours. If in the future will be the same macbook hot, you should contact your nearest Apple Authorized Service Provider.
May be required to clean notebook cooling system.
You can also install any monitoring utility sensors to your mac such as Hardware Monitor and look at the value of the temperature sensors.
Alex
Apple Certified Support Professional
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