Noise in LR 1.3.1 even at low ISOs

It seems I am getting noise in my RAW files even at low ISOs like 400, 200 and 100. I have noticed this after "upgrading" to 1.3.1. I am using an Apple I-Mac with Leopard. I am primarily shooting with a Canon Rebel XTi but noticed it with an older Canon Rebel and Canon P&S.
Is anyone else having noise problems? Its starting to drive me nuts.
Is this operator error and maybe just underexposed shots gaining noise when RAW and getting processed through LR?

The default noise reduction and sharpening have been made less aggressive with 1.3 I believe. That could be what you're seeing. Then again, we don;t know what you're talking about without images.
>I guess if the issue is underexposing then are all images underexposed going to have noise in the blacks even without making exposure adjustments.
Generally, if you underexpose one stop, it is as if you up your ISO by one stop. So you go from 100 to 200, 200 to 400, etc. You can use this as a trick to get higher ISOs out of your camera (at the cost of significantly increased noise) than it allows you to select. A camera has many different sources of noise though and it is often not that simple and the increase in noise can be much larger if you underexpose than the equivalent change in ISO.

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Txs

Are you sure there are no trojans or viruses on laptop? Also lounch the task manager and check out the service or application with deranged CPU loading while the laptop is in the idle mode. What is the power usage in the idle mode?
x220 | i5-2520m | Intel ssd 320 series | Gobi 2000 3G GPS | WiFi
x220 | i5-2520m | hdd 320 | Intel msata ssd 310 series | 3G GPS | WiFi
Do it well, worse becomes itself
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HP Pavilion dv4t-1300 fan is always on even with low CPU

I have a HP Pavilion dv4t-1300 Entertainment PC with Windows 7. Even with a low CPU (around 20%), my laptop fan is always on, and the noise is annoying. Why is it always on? How do I turn it off (I have a separate laptop cooler)?

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How do I deal with a lot of video noise in underexposed aeras. This also happens at low ISO

I seem to have a lot of high video noise in underexposed aeras. This is specially visible in the blacks, it shows more because of the blacks and happens at all ISO values. On other forums I read this can be caused by camera been used a lot and or to much ISO. What do you recommend so I can have less noise in the videopicture?

Some users had reported a similar issue in 3.3Beta2, but it was resolved for them in 3.3Beta3, but it seems like that didn't work out for you.
Can you share a small project that reproduces the issue at [email protected] and [email protected], so that we can look at the issue?
Thanks,
Neha

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Sometimes my Mac gets really slow, especially with applications, and even more especially when opening applications. What I don't understand is that when I check Activity Monitor during slow times, it shows plenty of CPU and memory still free, far from being maxed out. I try to keep a good chunk of my hard drive available for virtual memory too, so I'm unsure where its getting bogged down.
Any ideas?

You may just need a little maintenance:
Kappy's Personal Suggestions for OS X Maintenance
For disk repairs use Disk Utility. For situations DU cannot handle the best third-party utilities are: Disk Warrior; DW only fixes problems with the disk directory, but most disk problems are caused by directory corruption; Disk Warrior 4.x is now Intel Mac compatible. TechTool Pro provides additional repair options including file repair and recovery, system diagnostics, and disk defragmentation. TechTool Pro 4.5.1 or higher are Intel Mac compatible; Drive Genius is similar to TechTool Pro in terms of the various repair services provided. Versions 1.5.1 or later are Intel Mac compatible.
OS X performs certain maintenance functions that are scheduled to occur on a daily, weekly, or monthly period. The maintenance scripts run in the early AM only if the computer is turned on 24/7 (no sleep.) If this isn't the case, then an excellent solution is to download and install a shareware utility such as Macaroni, JAW PseudoAnacron, or Anacron that will automate the maintenance activity regardless of whether the computer is turned off or asleep. Dependence upon third-party utilities to run the periodic maintenance scripts had been significantly reduced in Tiger and Leopard. These utilities have limited or no functionality with Snow Leopard and should not be installed.
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2. Synchronize! Pro X (Commercial)
3. Synk (Backup, Standard, or Pro)
4. Deja Vu (Shareware)
5. Carbon Copy Cloner (Donationware)
6. SuperDuper! (Commercial)
7. Intego Personal Backup (Commercial)
8. Data Backup (Commercial)
9. SilverKeeper 2.0 (Freeware)
10. MimMac (Commercial)
11. Tri-Backup (Commercial)
Visit The XLab FAQs and read the FAQs on maintenance, optimization, virus protection, and backup and restore.
Additional suggestions will be found in Mac Maintenance Quick Assist.
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H264 Decoder buffering 8 frames even in low latency mode

Hi,
I am trying to do hardware video decode in my application. It does H264 decoding using IMFTransform::ProcessInput and IMFTransform::ProcessOutput API. I set CODECAPI_AVLowLatencyMode to avoid any kind of buffering. The app works, however, I see that
ProcessOutput keeps returning MF_E_TRANSFORM_NEED_MORE_INPUT for the first 8 frames. Only after 8 frames are sent, I get a success and I get decoded output. My decode latency is still high since I am receiving an output 8 frames late.
Any ideas on how to solve this issue?

Ping..
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ACR converting raw into huge jpg files even at low quality

Hi Need help !!I am downloading raw files from canon 30d into bridge and processing RAW files in ACR.
When i have finished the edit I am clicking on save image and selecting jpg and then low quality. The RAw image is about 7mb and the converted low quality jpgs are also coming out to 7mb. These are far too big and is only a recent problem. I have re-installed photoshop but this has not fixed the problem.
By the way if I convert an image from raw that I haven't edited by the same process the file size is only 300kb
Would be very grateful if anyone has an answer to this

Thanks again Yammer
If I save as medium quality file size goes higher - over 13mb
Saving it as an uncompressed tiff sent the file size upto 1.5GB !!!!
The two installed versions were the 64bit version and the normal (32 bit ?)
I did uninstall and delete Adobe folders before reinstalling but as you say there may have been files left behind - will look into that
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Cheers
Mark

How do you guys reduce noise in Canon 5d mark II video?

I am really interested to know if anybody could give me leads on how to reduce noise in 5d mark II videos. First off - Canon 5d mark II stock HD bitrate is not really nice. Even shooting in day time I have color noise and a lot of noise in shadow areas. Its only after I played with ML 2.3 and tried to shoot 1080p vid on CBR 1.4x mode (thats the maximum bitrate supported by my present CF card but planning to buy a new one).
How do you guys deal with it?

Tests have been done that show ISO settings in multiples of 160 produce the least amount of noise on video. Starting at 160 the 5Dmkii produces less noise than even at lower ISO settings of even 100 ISO. 160, 320, 480(500), 640 and so on. If you need ISO settings of a lot higher and the noise becomes obvious there is video noise reduction software that could help.

MKIII video noise

So first off I should state that although I have had this camera for just under a year I am very new to the DSLR video world (this is my first "real" camera) so please forgive my ignorance or stupidity haha. Anyhow, up until recently I have been able to get really clear video even at higher ISO but for some reason lately, even at lower ISO settings, my video just seems way too grainy and I cant seem to figure out why, I havent changed settings or anything.
If anyone has any tips to try or knows of something that might be malfunctioning or wrong with the camera, tips would be greatly appreciated
Thanks

ryang1 wrote:
So first off I should state that although I have had this camera for just under a year I am very new to the DSLR video world (this is my first "real" camera) so please forgive my ignorance or stupidity haha. Anyhow, up until recently I have been able to get really clear video even at higher ISO but for some reason lately, even at lower ISO settings, my video just seems way too grainy and I cant seem to figure out why, I havent changed settings or anything.
If anyone has any tips to try or knows of something that might be malfunctioning or wrong with the camera, tips would be greatly appreciated
Thanks
Hi and welcome!
I'd like to mention some aspects that may affect the image quality you get from your camera (in stills and video), maybe you can check them and find your problem:
- Sensor heating: Every camera has a sensor, obviously. If you shoot in Live View mode (on which the sensor is always exposed and working), or do "long exposures" stills for long time, your camera' sensor will heat up (faster if you shoot under hot weather conditions).
This must always be kept in mind. For this reason is highly recommended to let the camera cool down after those kind of shots or long use (turning it off, for instance).
- ISO settings: It's widely known that there are specific ISO settings that deliver noiser images than others.
The real native ISOs of the camera are 200, 400, 800, 1600, etc. Although some people have called "native" to the ISO settings mentioned below due to their lower noise levels.
To be clear, if you want to get the less noisy images, you should select ISO multiple of 160. This means: 160, 320, 640, 1250, 2500. The technical reason is because the camera do a digital pull down of the next upper ISO level, with the side effect of reducing noise. This has a down side effect though: you loose a bit of information/dynamic range on the highlights (that may end up clipped easier than in other ISOs), so you have to be careful in this regard. Test and check it by yourself.
As the opposite reason, avoid using ISO settings multiple of 125 (125, 250, 500, etc.) because the camera do a digital push of the ISO below it, resulting in an increase of noise.
The noise is always lot easier to see on dark areas. Light areas won't be affected much.
- Special Camera settings: There are some features/functions that will indeed affect the noise in your image.
These are: Auto Lighting Optimizer and Highlight Tone Priority.
They're great functions, but you should knowing their utility and limitations, and use with caution. Please refer to the manual for an explanation of each one.
- Picture Styles: ALL pictures and videos taken with the Canon cameras are processed through what is called Picture Styles.
Usually the included built-in camera picture styles won't affect much the noise quantity on your shot (although they will certainly change the look of your stills & video, and may deliver different "banding" in strong gradient areas like deep blue sky, etc.).
BUT there are some 3rd party picture styles available for download (some of them mainly aimed for post-production, called "flat" picture styles, etc) that can really affect the noise on the final captured image/video. So be aware and check them before and important job.
Hope this helps!
Regards.
HD Cam Team
Group of photographers and filmmakers using Canon cameras for serious purposes.
www.hdcamteam.com | www.twitter.com/HDCamTeam | www.facebook.com/HDCamTeam

Corrupt shadows in LR 2.2 and ACR

Hi there!
I have an issue with both LR 2.2 and ACR for Windows XP.
I calibrate my monitor with Colovision Spyder (first version) which then creates an ICC profile and a LUT for the graphics adapter. I calibrate for gamma 2.2 and color temperature 6500K.
With the monitor profile loaded in the windows monitor preferences I get both in LR 2.2 and ACR (CS3 and CS4) horribly looking shadows, like they are over lightened, with plenty of noise showing even at low iso settings. With the same settings, Nikon View NX shows the photos with good shadows rendition (it darkens them). I get the same issue even if I export the file as JPG from LR 2.2 and open it in PS CS4. But not if I export from Nikon View NX and open in CS4!
The problem appears to disappear if I remove the profile from windows monitor preferences (so that I loads a default sRGB profile instead).
Now this to me does not seem a very good long-term solution, but just a work-around, since I am not exploiting the ICC profile I created for my monitor.
I worked with this settings before with no problems, before upgrading to LR 2.2 (i tried unistalling and cleaning, but to no avail) and recalibrating.
Does anyone have similar problems?
Has anyone idea to permanently solve this issue?

In article <[email protected]>, [email protected]
wrote:
> Of course, my display is not using your display profile either and Picasa
> strips all metadata from your files, so also icc profiles if they were
> attached. My guess is that your monitor profile is bad. You might want to try
> recalibrating or borrowing/getting another calibrator.
This could very likely be the cause... to wit:
I recently had my Mac laptop's HD replaced. When I got it back from
service and went on to browsing images LR, I noticed very strong
posterisation in the dark areas of images, that looked fine before.
Turned out while the techie managed to migrate all of the data from the
old HD just fine, somehow the calibration was lost in the process.
After re-calibrating the display all was back to normal.
Cheers Martin

5D Mark III firmware suggestions

Hello,
Could Canon team give us their positions on these suggestions please ?
1) The Auto ISO is far from being convenient.
- Could we specify the min shutter speed instead of being limited to a restricted number of predefined values ?
- When shutter speed is set to "auto", could we set a priority as regards the one-over-the-focal-length rule thanks to a slider ? This is exactly what is so WELL done for some autofocus settings, so why not extend it to the "auto" value ?
2) When we switch the lens to manual focus, could you make the focus grid and red blinking vanish ?
3) Could you display the focal length on the rear LCD when reviewing a picture ? Presently, only aperture/speed/ISO are displayed when you click on "Info".
4) This last one might sound like a gadget... Would it possible when pressing the M-Fn button (or other) to set the focus to the hyperfocal ? Nowadays, there are no more indications for this on the lens barrel. And it is so useful for street photography and landscape. The camera knows the focal length and the current aperture. There are tables that give the relation between aperture, focal length and hyperfocal (as simple as a rule of thumb). So this should work, no ?
Maybe I am alone here to think that this would be welcome additions (#1 top priority) and will never be heard by Canon's dev team... But I would really appreciate having their answers written down here. Thanks for your consideration on this matter.
Cheers,
Yoms

We agree with all of these suggestions.
And we will also add the following suggestion than CAN be implemented via Firmware Update.
PLEASE CANON consider these requests, and forward them to the right department:
1- Could we enable AF points blinking in red even when the sccene is light?
Currently they only blink red when the scene is dark, even if you set the View Finder to always be illuminated.
This is VERY useful because in lot of situations the black overlay AF points is not very easy to see in light scenes.
2- If possible: also make them more visible (blinking red) in AI Servo, because they're currently hard to follow in lot of situations.
3- Could we assign different functions to the RATE button? It's currently almost a waste of button for only a couple of functions.
4- Please implement a "Hot / Sutck Pixels" REMAPPING function to let the user tell the camera to hide these deffective pixels in stills and video mode.
This is ESSENTIAL in digital cameras (every sensor has deffective pixels, most of them "mapped" in factory to be hidden, but not all). Digital sensors may even show more hot/stuck pixels over time. It could work in similar way than the "Dust delete data"
5- We expect an Option for CLEAN 4:2:2 HDMI output as promised by Canon, besides the current Full HD HDMI output option with shooting information, which is essential for using external monitors.
6- PLEASE, could Canon implement PEAKING in Video mode? The 5D Mark III is a $3,000+ camera.
There are currently cameras by other manufacturers with Peaking, 1080p60 for less than $1,000...
The 5D Mark III had strong advertised aimed towards the video market, yet it doesn't have this basic feature for filmmaking & video.
7- Please, could Canon improve the ALL-I mode?
It delivers poor quality (considering the BIG memory space required) when there are low motion scenes, showing more macro blocking than IPB and a noticeable "fizzy" noise, even at Low ISO.
8- Please, improve the Sharpness algorithm in Video mode, to get SHARPER images when setting it higher than zero.
Currently it produces noticeable halos, making it almost unusable for professional work.
The list could be longer, but all these improvements are VERY important and CAN be made via firmare update and would make the 5D Mark III more competitive and a higher value.
Thank you very much Canon!
We really hope you listent to your customers.
HD Cam Team
Group of photographers and filmmakers using Canon cameras for serious purposes.
www.hdcamteam.com | www.twitter.com/HDCamTeam | www.facebook.com/HDCamTeam

DNG image quality in iPhoto

I have recently acquired a Zeiss Photoscope (in effect, a spotting scope with an integrated camera) which records raw images as either JPG or DNG files or both. (I'm a birdwatcher who likes to take photos of them, not a photographer first and foremost). When I view the images in iPhoto 9.2, the highest quality JPG files are far superior to the DNG files, even though the JPGs are about 2 MB while the DNGs are 14 MB. The DNGs are obviously pixellated even at low ISO settings (50 or 100), while the JPG images appear sharp and show pixellation only when blown up digitally in iPhoto.
In some cases, I see evidence of chromatic aberration in the DNG images that is less evident in the JPG files, too.
Is there something about the way DNG files work with iPhoto that causes this? Is there recommended software for looking at DNG files that might eliminate the problem? Any other ideas about how to resolve this?

Even as an ardent Mac fanatic since 1984, I have to tell you that iPhoto is an unmitigated piece of cr@p when it comes to image quality, though it has certain hand-holding features that make it very attractive to photo amateurs.
The raw conversion, whether from a straight raw file or from a raw DNG file, will be far superior if you view them after converting/rendering them in Adobe software, either Lightroom or Adobe Camera Raw. The latter, a free plug-in, can be hosted either by the (very expensive) full version of Photoshop, or by the relatively inexpensive ($99.99) Photoshop Elements, although when hosted by Photoshop Elements it only offers a subset of the controls, adjustments and functionality of the very same plug-in when hosted by the full version of Photoshop.
https://store1.adobe.com/cfusion/store/html/index.cfm?event=displayProduct&categoryOID=746 5793&store=OLS-US

Iphone 5 makes a rattling noise from day 1, the replacement also makes this similar noise. customer care can provide me with another replacement but can not promise if the new replacement will have this noise or not. can i get a refund ?

my iphone 5 from day one makes a rattling noise when you shake the device.
the replacement i recieved also makes the similar rattling noise, apple calls it a "common problem" and says its the autofocus of the camera which makes the noise, but people i know are not experiencing any such noise in their evices, hence its not their in all the iphone.
honestly investing Rs 45000 in india i dont expect my device to have a stupid defect as this one,
In my latest conversation i have had with a senior representative of apple care iv been given an option to have anpther replacement but they cant promise me that the new replacemnt will have no such rattling noise it might be even worse.
since apple cant promise me a replacement without any such noise and my device is not even 90 days old, and since apple calls it a common problem in iphone5 is it possible that they give me replacement of 5c or 5s and il pay the difference in price or just have a refund ? since they cant provide me with a solution and keeping this device with this defect is not a solution with me.

Sorry if it's over 14 days apple does not refund the device, just sit tight and keep on asking for a device that doesn't rattle, be firm but polite about your position on the matter.
Politeness works wonders

Why do my photos with my new cannon 7D have so much noise

Hi,
We just got a new cannon 7D last week and took it on vacation. When we downloaded pictures, they have much worse noise especially at low light that our old outdated rebel xt. The pictures look ok at regular magnification, but when zoomed in they look terrible. I did not get noise anything like this with my xt. I downloaded some as raw and some as dng and they look the same. Even shots at 100 iso were quite noisy at 1/3 second. We enlarge these and put them in a gallery and I suspect they will look very amateur. I called cannon & they said to use their software to download the pictures, and that this image sensor is more sensitive so might pick up more noise. I've downloaded thousands of pics with lightroom previously, so I don't think that's it & I know the image sensor is more sensitive, but everything I've read clearly says the 7D is a good camera and should have less noise than my old xt. These are all tripod shots, mostly 100 iso & anywhere from fast shots (which are better) to long exposures in low light, downloaded to lightroom 4.
Has anyone seen this? I have seen some posts about high noise with 7d at low iso speeds.
Thanks

Ok, I've tried to attach some photos without luck. I went to that adobe.com website to make a link like the help section said, but it says the site is under repair. Is there an easer way? I couldn't attach them by clicking the camera icon either. The help section says I can't attach a photo to a post for security reasons?
Anyway, my concern is that in the past with pictures that looked even a little noisy with my rebel xt, if I would try to print them at even 16x24 through a professional lab with a calibrated monitor I could definitely see noise on the prints. I've gotten very good pictures with my rebel xt just by using a tripod and 100 iso with almost no noise, so it's hard to wrap my head around the fact that when I see alot of noise in a magnified picture that I won't see it on an enlarged print. I do noise reduction in LR4, but it makes all the edges less sharp, so there is a trade off. My understanding is that you are supposed to zoom to 100% when doing noise reduction to see the effect. I feel like I should have to do much less noise reduction with a 7D than a rebel XT.
Thanks for all your input

Noise in LR 1.3.1 even at low ISOs

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