Noise when using isight in Movie 08

I have substantial noise when using iSight in iMovie '08. Please see my example on Youtube Mirno63 labeled test. I would like to have my daughter practice for a recital using isight but the noise is so loud. Please help!
Thanks
Marian

Hello, Marian (mirno)
If I am listening to the correct YouTube video, I think that at least some of the sound that is troubling you is background noise. Sookyas may also be right that feedback is causing your problem.
In either case, using an external Mic that is positioned closer to the voice you want to record than to your MBP should help you.
I use this Logitech USB Desktop Microphone when I want to get sound from a person who is not close to my Mac. My Logitech does a GREAT job on spoken words. Although it is not advertised as (and does not cost as much as) a music microphone, it gives better sound recordings than my laptop's built-in mic unless the voice being recorded is very close to my laptop. It certainly meets my singing and other amateur music needs. However, other brands should work, too.
Unless you can buy one from a trusted retailer who will give you full exchange or refund credit if a new microphone does not correct your problems, I suggest you take your wonderfully portable MBP with you when you shop, add any needed driver, and test the mic before you buy.
Here is how I would perform the test. 
• Leave "AudioMide" settings at default. (You should not need to change these settings when using iMovie except in extraordinary circumstances.)
• Set your  > System Preferences > Sound > Input to use the new mic as your input device.
• Extend the microphone's cable away from your MBP, and start recording.
• Leave the computer where it is and physically move near the mic so your mouth is approximately half a meter from mic.
• Sing or speak in a normal voice for a few seconds and then stop the recording.
• Now change your System Sound Input preference back to user you MBP's built-in mic again.
• Start recording again.
• Leaving the MBP in place, move back to the same place where you tested the external mic.
• Sing or speak again at about the same volume you did when using the external mic.
• Stop the recording, and play back both recording so you can compare them.
This test should let you easily determine whether the external mic meets your needs.
If the noise is still there when recording from the external mic, there is most likely something wrong with your Mac. Contact Apple or your Apple-Authorized Service Provider.
EZ Jim
PowerBook 1.67 GHz w/Mac OS X (10.4.11) G5 DP 1.8 w/Mac OS X (10.5.2)  External iSight

Similar Messages

  • Beeping noise when using script to move to new field

    I have a PDF form with multiple text fields and check boxes.  For each of the text fields I have a custom keystroke script that sets the focus to the next text field if the Enter key is pressed or if the field is full.  Below is part of that script:
    if(event.keyCode==13) {
    this.getField(nextfield).setFocus();
    else
    if ( event.fieldFull)
    this.getField(nextfield).setFocus();
    The script is working (the focus changes to the next text field if Enter is pressed or if the field is full), however when the cursor moves to the next field there is a beeping noise.  It's pretty irritating... is there a way to suppress that?
    Thanks for your help!

    So you want to auto-tab to the next field if Enter is pressed or when the field is full? First of all, you have to set the field as multi-line, otherwise Enter would just commit the value and you won't be able to differentiate it from other characters and catch it. If you do that what you can use is the change property of the event object, like so:
    if (event.change.charCodeAt(0)==10) { // If the user pressed Enter
         event.rc = false;  // reject the Enter value
         this.getField("NextField").setFocus(); // tab to the next field
    } else if (event.fieldFull) { // If the field is full
         this.getField("NextField").setFocus(); // tab to the next field
    Of course, you'll have to set a maximum allowed number of characters for the fieldFull property to become relevant.

  • Crackling noises when using Scarlett 2i2?

    Just bought the Focusrite Scarlett 2i2 yesterday as my previous audio interface broke. Now I am having crackling noises when using the 2i2. . .a problem I did not have with my previous M-Audio Fast Track C400. . .so I know it's a problem specific to the 2i2. Already downloaded the latest drivers as well.
    Anybody have any solutions or similar problems with this product??? The crackling noise is intolerable.
    Thanks.

    Hi lee,  it sounds like the problem your having is exactly the same as mine.  When I use the 2i2 there is clapping and crackling which gets worse and worse until the sound disappears,  I know a few people on different forums are having the same issue so I don't think it is the interface.  I'm using iMac 27
    •      NVIDIA GeForce GTX 775M 2GB GDDR5
    •      3.5GHz Quad-core Intel Core i7, Turbo Boost up to 3.9GHz
    •      16GB 1600MHz DDR3 SDRAM - 2X8GB
    •      1TB Serial ATA Drive @ 7200 rpm
    There should be no problems with this set up in terms of capability,  I'm still waiting to hear back from Focusrite tech help desk and when I do I'll share the outcome.  I hope this can be resolved,  let me know if you have any luck before me? 
    If I was in the UK I would pick up the phone and call Focusrite but I'm in Australia!!
    Steve

  • IMac 10.6.2 freeze when using iSight

    Hello
    i have Problems - after i upgrade to 10.6.0 from 10.5... everything was ok .
    Then i installed 10.6.1 - still not big problems sometimes hang up - only power off helped .
    Since i use 10.6.2 - System freeze when using iSight , ini Chat or Skype after 20 sec.
    I tried to go back to 10.6.1 - freeze after 20min .
    With 10.6.0 so far no freeze .
    I need help .

    TnT Sweden wrote:
    Hello , once again
    i tried these steps with reset , .... did not work .
    Also in another account .
    So i think i will try to make a clean Installation .
    As i am "new" into Mac - what will be the best way .
    I had Leopard from the beginning - now bought Snow Leopard .I have Time Capsule for Backup.
    My questions - with what System CD i should start to make the clean install ?
    10.5 or 10.6 ?
    And How ?
    What Data will be lost - or is all backup with Time Machine like Photos ,......
    Thanks in advance -
    If you follow your plan, you will learn a lot and not be nearly so "new" to Mac. Here are my responses to your latest questions/statements:
    So i think i will try to make a clean Installation .
    In our jargon, a "clean" install means that you will erase your disk and individually reinstall your system and applications, and then restore your data files. This method is very thorough and will give you a pristine system, but it requires considerably more of your time and effort than other methods that may correct your problems.
    Easier alternatives are available for your consideration. Before you undertake a system reinstall, read the rest of this post and then study this document and the links in the document that are applicable to your problem and plans:
      http://support.apple.com/kb/TS1388
    If you decide to reinstall your system, carefully consider your installation options:
      http://support.apple.com/kb/HT1545 (also applies to OS 10.6)
    As i am "new" into Mac - what will be the best way .
    "Best" can mean different things to different people. For example:
    • The method explained in the User Guide (manual) that came with your Mac is the easiest way.
    • The "Erase and Install" option from http://support.apple.com/kb/HT1545 is quicker to reinstall, but requires more work for apps and data after the OS is installed.
    • Archive and Install with the "Preserve user and network settings" option eliminates the need for reinstalling apps and reconfiguring network and other user settings by "preserving" these things during the OS reinstall. Unfortunately, it sometimes also preserves the problem that is causing your difficulty.
    • Secure erase before installing OS assures that NOTHING unwanted remains on your disk to cause problems after the reinstall. One pass of writing Zeros is sufficient for your purpose. Note that secure erase will take hours, depending on the size of your disk. The help article below applies to your 10.5&6 as well as the 10.4 it states,:
      http://docs.info.apple.com/article.html?path=DiskUtility/10.5/en/duh1011.html
    Perhaps easiest of all (as least for Time Machine users) is to use your Mac's Leopard Install DVD and your Time Machine backup to "Restore" your system to a configuration dated BEFORE you did the update that has caused your problems. This method will get you working quickly, but it will not help you use Snow Leopard. If you have not already figured out how to do this "Restore," see:
      http://support.apple.com/kb/HT1553
    The section entitled " Using Disk Utility" will help you use your Time Machine backup to take your entire system back to when Leopard was working. After it works again, either stay with Leopard, or uninstall or update whatever software is causing your Snow Leopard conflict before again updating to Snow Leopard.
    My questions - with what System CD i should start to make the clean install ? 10.5 or 10.6 ?
    Use Leopard Install CD if you want to backup to Leopard.
    Only use Snow Leopard if you want to try a fresh install of SL to see if you can get it working.
    And How ?
    Depending on your needs and whether you bought your Mac and SL update locally, and especially if your time is valuable to you, the best way may be to contact your retailer for an appointment so he can either help you or fix your problem for you. If you can use this as a training exercise, you will find it easier to do than to read and write about, and you can ask questions during the process. If you retailer does not consider proper installation of the SL software you bought from him to be part of his service, and if he offers "One to One", you may find it well worth your time and its cost:
      http://www.apple.com/retail/onetoone/
    If you have plenty of time, or if you merely like doing things for yourself, follow the instructions for the Disk you are using (or the instructions in the links I cite above if you want to try one of those methods.) Remember, you can try an easy/quick way first in case it works without all the manual effort on your part. If that fails to correct your problem, you are only out your time. You can try the next easiest way, and keep trying increasingly complex methods until you find the one that works for you.
    What Data will be lost - or is all backup with Time Machine like Photos ,......
    This answer varies depending on which method you use to restore your system or reinstall your OS:
    • NOTHING IS LOST when you Archive & Install
      (if you "preserve user and network settings" before installing)
    • EVERYTHING IS LOST when you secure erase.
    • Other methods may keep data but lose application or user configuration settings.
    (1) I use SL on two Macs and it work GREAT on both. I WANT to use SL because I like it MUCH better than Leopard.&ensp:You did not ask this, but here is how I would proceed to get SL working:
    ♦ Unless you already have it, I would make another, separate, backup of all important data in addition to the one you already have in Time Machine. One backup is not enough for me. In addition to your music, photos, and other data files, consider items like those listed here:
      http://support.apple.com/kb/HT2980
    ♦ THEN, I would securely erase the startup disk and follow the instructions that came with the SL DVD to install SL. 
    ♦ Immediately after the restart that completes the install, I would use Mac's Disk Utility to repair permissions.
    ♦ Then configure your internet connection, and download and install the Mac OS X v10.6.2 Update (Combo):
      http://support.apple.com/kb/DL959
    ♦ Immediately after the restart that completes the Combo Update, repair permissions again.
    ♦ Once you have reinstalled SL, use  > Software Update... to update any other Apple software as needed. I repair permissions before and after any installer than asks me to enter my Administrator Password.
    ♦ Now you can test your iMac using http://support.apple.com/kb/HT2090 to verify that the problem is resolved. If your problem persists at this point, see your Apple Authorized Service Provider for professional help.
    ♦ You can restore your data files either now or after reinstalling third-party items.
    ♦ Now, you can reinstall necessary third-party software. Install only one item at a time and test thoroughly before adding another so you can tell if one of them is causing a problem.
    (2) If you would rather retreat to Leopard and not bother trying to fix SL on your Mac, the easiest fix will be to restore your Leopard system from Time Machine. You can then restore any data newer than your last working Leopard system from your backups.
    EZ Jim
    Mac Pro Quad Core (Early 2009) 2.93Ghz w/Mac OS X (10.6.2)  MacBook Pro (13 inch, Mid 2009) 2.26GHz (10.6.2)
    LED Cinema Display  G4 PowerBook 1.67GHz (10.4.11)  iBookSE 366MHz (10.3.9)  External iSight

  • No sound when using Airplay for Movies on Apple TV

    For reasons unknow, when I try to stream full length movies (Lion King and Nemo bought from iTunes) from my iPhone or Macbook Pro using Airplay, there is no sound.  When I stream smaller movies, like Boundin' the Pixar Short, there is no problem.
    Side note 1: Why do purchased movies not show up like purchased TV shows on Apple TV?  I feel like I shouldn't have to use Airplay for movies if I don't need to use it for TV shows I buy.
    Side note 2: For some Netflix movies played directly from Apple TV there is no sound.  Other movies work fine and the movies that work or don't work seem to change day to day.
    Thanks for your help.

    Gldsndz wrote:
    Side note 1: Why do purchased movies not show up like purchased TV shows on Apple TV?  I feel like I shouldn't have to use Airplay for movies if I don't need to use it for TV shows I buy.
    Apple has not negotiated the rights to allow this is the assumed reason.
    We can't even play Purchased music or TV Shows from the cloud in UK.

  • Noise when using external monitor

    When I connect my MacBook Pro to an external LCD screen and also connect my soundoutput to an external amplifier I get noise in the speakers. What can I do to avoid this?
    It gets even worse when using powercord on my MacBook.

    this is caused by processor noise/power interference. one fix is to turn the volume all the way up on the macbook pro,and adjust volume on the amplifier.

  • Wierd noise when Using the XP partition

    Hey guys,
    When I'm using the XP partition I would also plug in another monitor while working. I would get this weird sound (like a robot) followed by pauses or short freezes when in the middle of my work. It doesn't happen all the time but only when i'm playing audio or scrubbing videos.
    what do you think is happening? and what can i do to eliminate this?
    thanks guys

    it's like a chirping noise when scrubbing eg. youtube videos. could it be the video card problem? because of the multiple monitors?

  • Noise when using ext dvi monitor

    when i plug in my dvi monitor i get loud sound interferrence through my ext speakers plugged into my mbp. if i turn off the seocnd monitor or unplug the dvi cable the noise is gone. This has nothing to do with the cpu

    It happens the same to me. I just get the noise when plugin in an external monitor, and when i do the noise is unbereable. I use the MBP to make music!!!
    HELP!

  • Terrible audio interference when using isight

    I started a new thread for this since the others were archived and not accepting further comments, even though the subject remains unresolved.
    There is an incredible amount of audio interference when using the iSight in iMovie. The best way to describe it is as an electronic hiss that overshadows a voice or other audio subject. While the video is clear, the audio hiss prevents me from posting any videos on uTube or using them for any other purposes.
    Any insight on the isight? Any recommendation for external usb mics that may help?

    Thanks, Defcom. But I tried all different sorts of settings. I guess I can't assume that the tiny little mic and webcam could be of any good quality. At this point, I am taking suggestions for a good external usb stereo mic or webcam with built in stereo mic.

  • Noise when using Front-Panel headphone j

    This message is for those who may experience noise in headphones plugged into a case's front jack. These noises would likely be heard if one uses a quality phone set with good isolation. (not noise cancelling type) and during quiet times, such as when no music or other audio source is being played, or perhaps when listening to programming with very high dynamic range and the frequent, very low loudness passages of music, etc.. There is no problem with the card. (I'm using an Xtreme Gamer card) The problem will be with the header panel on the case itself. You need to isolate the case ground from the other grounds coming in from the various board headers, such as USB, the sound card, etc. I accomplished this by scraping away the foil from around the stud landings on the panel module board. Of course you need to exercise care when performing such a modification but you will be rewarded with absolute, golden silence, when that's what you should be getting. Again, there is NO problem with the card.

    If it is possible to remove the circuit board assembly for the front panel jacks from the case, you can see how the circuit foil "traces" on the board are connected. In my situation, and probably yours, you may find that the mounting screws that hold the circuit board to the computer case will also have the foil traces under them and that those traces will be a common ground to the rest of the circuits on the board. The problem arises because the computer case ground is at a somewhat different "signal" level than the grounds coming into the circuit board from the various "header" connectors, that is, the connectors you mate with the corresponding pins on your sound card, as well as the USB pins, if you choose to hook them up too. There is a great deal of strange noises that can be present in a given motherboard's circuits and associated grounds. All the ground connections from the headers coming into the board should only go to the individual connectors on the front panel. I cut away the foil paths where the grounds were all run together on the circuit board, thus isolating them from one another, as well as cut away the foil under the mounting screws. You may even have to cut foil from both sides of the board, depending on your model. You need to take care not to open up a circuit when making those cuts. A good, sharp Xacto knife or utility knife should work fine.
    I found it strange that the designers of the board didn't consider the problem of "ground loops", which is what the problem is defined as. Ground loops, as you can see now, can happen when when a circuit or even separate components altogether, such as a computer, TV and HIFI system are all connected together. In the?HIFI setup case, hum results because the point of incoming cable ground for your TV and/or Internet are at a different 60 Hz voltage from the ground in your home's wiring,?to which your computer is connected for power. This causes a current to flow through the audio cable shields that is large enough to induce a voltage into the audio equipment. I've even heard of ground loops so bad that people have seen sparks when trying to hook up the audio cables between the pieces of equipment. Almost anyone who has a system hookup such as I described has run into that problem of hum when using their computer's audio into their HIFI setup. The only relief is to get some type of ground "isolator" that connects between the incoming cable and your TV and/or Internet cable modem. A quick and dirty solution is to use a grounding adapter in the AC connection for your computer and other equipment that uses a grounding plug. This, of course, is not recommended, but will kill the hum for now. I thought I would throw in the HIFI setup hum problem since, as I said, many people are suffering from that problem.
    Even if the header grounds were all shorted together, the problem would be no where near as bad as having the case ground shorted to the header grounds, which was the way mine was made.
    I know this is a looooonnnnnng winded post but trying to explain something like this in writing is not easy. Hopefully you will now have a better understanding of what I meant the first time, even though it was by no means a short post either.

  • Loud distorted noise when using STP Noise Reduction

    Another very strange STP glitch.
    When using Noise Reduction, I set the noise print. Then open the Noise Reduction dialog (or HUD, I guess). The first time I play the mono audio file I'm editing, sound comes out of the left speaker at perhaps slightly reduced volume. Stop playback. Then hit the Play button again (still in the Noise Reduction dialog). Playback is now INCREDIBLY LOUD AND DISTORTED. So loud that it probably damaged my speakers (not to mention making me jump out of my chair). Thinking there was a problem with the file, I recorded some audio (again a single mono track). Same result. Deleted all the plists I could think that might be involved. No luck.
    Next, I actually went to a different computer - my G5 2.0 GHz DP. Same result, so I am completely puzzled on this one. Any ideas.
    Both machines were running STP v 2.02. The original problem was discovered on a MacBook Pro, 2.4 GHz. Both have 4GB RAM and are running Mac OS X 10.5.1.

    APPLE!!! FIX THIS!!!!!! IT IS PHYSICALLY DAMAGING TO THE USER. COULD EASILY BLOW SOMEONE'S HEARING.
    I just went to play a preview of the file while adjusting the settings in reduce noise print WITH HEADPHONES ON! I was attempting to take out a very loud running generator in the background of an interview and nearly blew my hearing in my left ear. I threw the headphones across the room. Painful to say the least. My sound was only on the first notch and the result was louder than I can get my headphones to play with the volume all the way up.
    JamesGray, if you file a lawsuit, let me know, no joke. This is a dangerous and irresponsible game Apple is playing with their professional user's hearing, and therefore their livelihood and quality of life.

  • Noise when using headphones with new Lumia 630

    I've got a new Lumia 630 today and when I tried to use headphones with it at first phone did not recognize them ( I still have to reconnect them sometimes) but the main problem is a hiss noise when phone produces sounds. It could be music, video or keyboard clicks, whatever. I can hear it even when loudness of music player is set to 0. Is it known issue? Or is it problem with my phone? I tried another headphones and have the same problem, maybe a less noise.
    Sorry for my English. Need your help!

    Hi wtfwithmyphone,
    Welcome to the forum! 
    Does it only happen when using the phone with headsets? Do you also hear this noise when the audio is played via loudspeaker? What are the models of the headsets that you tried with your Nokia Lumia 630?
    Note that the Nokia Lumia 630 supports headsets that have American Headset Jack (AHJ) ports. Using other types of headsets may cause performance issues, like background noise and audio quality distortion. This link will show you some of the headset models supported by the Lumia 630: Accessories for Lumia 630 - Headsets.
    Let us know if this information has helped you. 

  • "zipper" noise when using MIDI controller

    When using MIDI faders to control guitar amp settings (gain, EQ, etc) I hear a very loud "zipper" noise when I make changes. This makes it very unlikely I can use it live. Has anyone else experienced this?

    By "flakey as heck," I mean that the stop button stops play, and brings it back to the beginning of the song, even if I only hit it once. In other words, I can't just stop playback where the song is at the moment I hit stop. When I hit fast forward or rewind, it doesn't always respond, and when it does, it often skips randomly, sometimes going one step in the grid, sometimes more than one, sometimes not at all. I think what is happening is that the transport controls are trying to control Logic but using messages designed for Reason. I say this only because, when I am using Logic, but not Reason in ReWire, the transport controls work exactly as they should.

  • Excessive background noise when using Wired Headset with iPhone5

    Hello,
    I use my wired headset all the time on my iPhone 5 64gb. Driving working you name it. I get complaints over and over again that my background noise is very often louder than I am. A friend of mine experiences the same issues. So I know its not just me. I have already gone to the Apple Store and had the phone replaced but I still get complaints. I just called Apple and they said they have never heard of the issue. It's my biggest complaint about the iPhone 5 mainly because its how I use it most of the time.
    Anyone else having this problem? If so, lets make sure Apple is aware of it so it can be fixed.

    yes, my iPhone 5, when used with a corded headset, picks up and amplifies background noise to earsplitting levels. Same for the 2 other people I know with iPhone 5s. It makes using a corded headset all but impossible in most situations, unless I am in a quiet environment in which I am not doing anything.

  • Macbook pro making buzzing noises when using google chrome

    I have had a Macbook Pro for at least 3 years. I have always used Google Chrome(in fact as I am writing this it began making this noise while using Safari) to use Google Drive to work on my homework to do other things as well since I find it easiest to use for school. Recently my computer has started making a very loud buzzing noise near the fan areas when I use Google Chrome and it worries me. It had that problem before, but when I took it in before I thought the problem had been fixed. Now 2 years later it is making that noise again and it only goes away when I put my computer to sleep. I am unsure as to what to do about it and it worries me because it is getting to the point where I can't even use my computer to work on it.
    Please help or give some advice on what to do.

    Open the bottom and use a can of compressed air and clean out your fan for dust and possible plastics stuck near fan blade. It will help and if needed replace fan           https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Mu6tKVqdgGI

Maybe you are looking for