Noisy 7800GT

I upgraded my video card not too long ago to the 7800GT. Works like a charm. All in all I love the card. Although, the fan is real noisy. There was a period of time when I booted the computer that the fan wouldn't be overly loud. It was only on a fresh boot though. If I bring it out of sleep mode it runs loud. Now it's running loud regardless of it being a fresh boot or coming out of sleep. I'm kind of tapped for ideas to control the fan on the card. I'm pretty certain that the card shouldn't be running this loud all the time. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks.
-Dave

All Arctic Cooling products are outstanding.
I use an ATI Silencer1 on my 9800 Pro- dead silent, and cool as can be. Even allows overclocking......
I modded an ATI Silencer3 for another 9800, and inspite of my hacking, it also works wonderfully
All the AC products are silent, copper heatsink, quality constructed, and have a 6 year warranty...in the electronics world, an extremely long warranty (measure of quality???)
Whichever you choose, whichever will fit, will definitely cool better than OEM, and will be quiet.
The Thermaltake ND1 would also be a candidate, with dimensions/specifications similar to the NV Silencer.
Lacking the external exhaust housing, the Zalman 900-Cu is an excellent cooler. Connects to a 4 pin molex connector (jump from the optical drive) instead of the graphics card board, but is smaller, quiet, and cools very well. I have one of these on yet another 9800 Pro, and it works very nicely.

Similar Messages

  • Nvidia 7800GT making tons or noise, replace fan or replace card?

    The fan on my G5's video card is very noisy, clearly the bearings are shot. Is the fan replaceable or should I just get a new card?

    Hi-
    Yep, all the old, excellent AC coolers are hard to find.
    I'm hoping the article will show that it's not a difficult process, and from other links on the page, there are other options.
    A Google of "7800GT VGA cooler" will give some good options.
    Thermaltake, Zalman, Vantec, Akasa, etc., all have options.

  • Performance issues with flashed 7800GT (G5)

    Hey,
    I recently flashed a PC 7800GT with the 128K OEM NVidia ROM. It's one of the cards with a physical 128K ROM chip, so no worries there. However, it doesn't deliver the performance I expected. I have a Late 2005 2.0 DC, 10GB DDR2 and use Leopard 10.5.8.
    This is what OS X puts out (german):
    NVIDIA GeForce 7800 GT:
      Chipsatz-Modell:    GeForce 7800GT
      Typ:    Monitor
      Bus:    PCIe
      Steckplatz:    SLOT-1
      PCIe-Lane-Breite:    x16
      VRAM (gesamt):    256 MB
      Hersteller:    NVIDIA (0x10de)
      Geräte-ID:    0x0092
      Versions-ID:    0x00a1
      ROM-Version:    2152.2
    Performance issues are: I can't seem to reach frame rates that are anywhere near the results provided by barefeats. Quake 3 runs with approx 200fps in 1600x1200x32 (I expected 300+ fps), Quake 4 and UT2004 run okay, but not on high settings with high resolutions. So, not equivalent to what you wouldd expect from the system's specs) Same goes for Colin McRae Rallye. Now, I remember reading about performance issues in 10.5.8 with the flashed ROM since it doesn't seem to be a 1:1 copy of the original one. I didn't try it in Tiger since I don't exactly want to go back from Leopard. Am I right that this is probably an issue of the "OEM ROM" (from the macelite)? Does anyone have the real deal in terms of 7800GT ROMs and could provide me with a link?
    Br

    Hi-
    If you send me an email via my website, I can send you a couple of ROMs that might work better.
    http://www.jcsenterprises.com/Japamacs_Page/All_Things_PPC.html
    Problem with the flashed 256 MB GT, though, is that Leopard runs slow.
    Bad driver interaction.....
    The 512 MB GTX is the way to go........

  • My Macbook Pro became noisy and slow after I reboot it. Any Help pls

    I just bought my Macbook Pro last month here in Japan, and it is working well until one time I cannot login my username and password because whenever I type my username, an Arabic-like characters appear. Then using my iphone, I searched on the internet and luckily found answer to my problem. Macbook Pro users shared their same problems, and they mentioned about "rebooting" (switch on and hold Shift). then I tried it and resolved my problem.. But when I was about to use my mac, i noticed a noisy fan and my mac became slow.(which I never experiece before eventhough I have poor connection, it still run fast). And what I hate most is it always `reload/ buffer`.. A rainbow color ball always appear and it will reamin reloading for a long time.. one time, I leave it relaoding and try to cook dinner, expecting to fnish relaoding after i cook, but it didnt change, it is still relaoding (with rainbow color ball) .. What can I do with this problem? what im doing with my Mac is purely internet, movies (no downlad, just watching free movies, but not always), and manage my own site.. I hope and expect a solution from you guy.. thank you...

    Try the usual things. Reset the SMC. Reset the PRAM. Repair Disk Permissions. Clear all the caches. Check the Activity Monitor to see if any processes are hogging cpu/ram. Make sure everything is up to date. Check the temperatures with a program like Temperature Monitor or iStatPro to make sure its not overheating, and to find out what speed the fans are running at.

  • New Imac really noisy after change to SSD

    I have TWO Imac's in my room : an Imac 24 inch I bought a few years old and I have a brand new Imac 27 inch a few months old.
    A technician working for a well know, huge computer retail chain replaced in both IMAC's the HD by 128 GB SSD (in 24 inch Imac) and a 256 GB SSD (in 27 inch Imac). He also added extra RAM : I now got 8 GB in the 24 inch Imac and 12 Gb RAM in the 27 inch Imac
    The 24 inch Imac operates very silent, very quick and very smooth whereas the much bigger and more powerful, new 27 inch Imac now makes A LOT OF NOISE. I am not a sensitive or paranoia person freaky about some computer noise. This is really nervewrecking and constant buzzz. The moment the newest Imac is switched on, the cooler just goes buzzing really loud. This noise has nothing to do with SSD or increase of RAM since they have no moving parts. And the noise is constant. I do NOT use software that requires lots of processing power. I just surf normal websites and do word processing and look at fotos. I don't even look much to video so it's really strange. Where does this noise all of a sudden comes from ?
    The 27 inc Imac was silent when I bought it with HD disk, but once the big HD disk gone, the cooler keeps on blazing and buzzing. Awful ! The guys in the computer shop have no idea, the guys from the Apple official reseller shrug shoulders and say it is "normal" without any more explanation.
    Could it be that by taking the rather big HD out of the inner frame, that the extra space becoming empty lead to an increase of airflow from the fan/cooler circulating freely in the inner frame and thus generating much noise level ???? Anyway, the noise level is totally unacceptable. SSD is supposed to be absolutely silent but now i paid good money for nothing and am stuck with a very expensive but very noisy imac with a nice 27 inch screen but Imac that works on everyone's nerves in the room and adjacent rooms.
    Even guests in the adjacent living room ask what device is generating this constant buzzzzzing.

    Hello,
    Likely the 27" iMac had the special Seagate drive with internal temp sensor & the special Apple Rom to handle the fans, unlike the earlier one that had an external sonsor.
    Since the late 2009 iMacs came out, replacing the hard drive has caused the internal Hard Drive Fan to start running at around 6000RPM.
    This is due to Apple replacing the external Hard Drive temperature sensor with a proprietary firmware and using the drives internal sensor.
Replacement drives do not contain the firmware to deliver temperature data on the temperature sensor cable.
When the iMac does not receive a good signal from the hard drive it puts the fan at full speed to protect the drive.
    If you replace your drive, your iMac will initially seem fine, but soon the fan will begin to speed up to full speed. Resetting the SMC (System Management Controller) will have a temporary effect, but again the fan will speed up.
    Fixes people have used in the past included:
        •    Using smcFanControl and the terminal to set a MAX speed for the fan and writing scripts to start this after every sleep/restart.
        •    Shorting the temperature sensor cable (Not a possibility on 2011 iMacs) this tricks the iMac into thinking the drives temperature is very low, hence slow fan speed.
    Both these fixes are less then perfect and leave the drive in a dangerous situation with no protection from overheating.
    Another option people try is other Fan Control software. These programs will not work for this particular issue as they often only control the base speed, and if they do control the fans actual speed they rely on the temperature reported by the sensor which is now incorrect.
    HDD Fan Control
    HDD Fan Control works to fix this issue by reading the drives internal temperature using the S.M.A.R.T protocol and set the fans actual speed to a value good to protect the drive. 
It runs at startup and continually to always control the fan correctly, prevent the loud fan noise and protect the drive from overheating.
    Instead of HDDFan Control, get the free SSDFan Control
    http://exirion.net/ssdfanctrl/

  • Noisy power supply when running of UPS?... follow up post.

    Ned/The hatter your input here would be most appreciated along with anyone else using a UPS with your mac pro. Please read on...
    Having just concluded a rather detailed any lengthy post over in the power mac g5 forum with regards to loud buzzing noise from the power supply running of battery backup.
    I recemmend reviewing the link below for the full and i think interesting read...
    Linked here: http://discussions.apple.com/thread.jspa?threadID=665537&tstart=0
    To sum it up it concluded that my model of UPS (Belkin) produces a simulated sine wave. I am unsure of technicals here, but this then makes the power supply in powermac G5's make a nasty electrical noise as the unit works to sort it out. What is ideal is a pure sine wave i understand.
    The reason for my post was that i was concerned the noise was a sign of harm being done to my mac. No one has said either way yet that this noise is either just a nuisance and it something thats got to be lived or that its actually harming my machine.
    Anyhow it turns out that the RS series from APC also makes the G5 powermac make a noise. And i am aware that Ned along with some others use the APC RS series with there mac pro's. What i am looking to find out is... Do you have a noise from your power supplys when running on battery backup with your new shiney mac pro's?
    The APC smart ups series however does not make the powermac G5 make a noise this has been confirmed by several users. I guess this is because these models produce pure wave sine.
    As you can see this has all got very complicated and over my head.
    The reason for me coming into this forum and asking about noisy power supplys when using certain UPS is because shortly i will be switching to a Mac pro. And if the power supplys in these are different and dont make a noise when running under battery with certain APC Rs's and the new Dual form belkin units then i wont return my current belkin model in exchange for a APC smart ups. I will just live it for a short time whilst i own my G5 and just hope it wont do any damage if and when we have a power outage.
    Thank you to anyone that can guide or assist me with this dilemma. Cheers Pob

    Pobster,
    Switching power supplies (such as those used in computers) do not require a "pure" analog sine wave input; they are more than capable of running on PWM/stepped sine wave input. The noise from the power supply when running on power from a PWM output UPS does not indicate that damage is being done to your machine; it's a harmless side effect.
    Some equipment will be damaged if powered via PWM input; items with compressors (refrigerators, air conditioners) definitely fall into this category, as well as some medical equipment and telecom equipment.
    I live in an area with notoriously dirty power; a UPS is critical in my case (I'd argue that it is critical in any case, however). I've ran my equipment on UPSs for many years, and the price has dropped significantly. I've got one APC SmartUPS with pure sine wave output which was purchased for me by a client, but most of my equipment is running on UPS with PWM output. It's not uncommon for me to have 20-30 power events in a given day - most of them transient voltage drops or spikes; I've still got an old Sun Sparc 10 file server that's still chugging along.
    A couple of interesting articles for your perusal:
    http://www.macosxhints.com/article.php?story=20051009043816537
    http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pulse-width_modulation
    A quick google will turn up lots more information on the topic. APC used to have a white paper on their site which talked about this very topic.
    Most manufacturers provide connected equipment insurance - tripp lite, for example, provides $250,000(US) coverage. I've never known anyone who actually needed to use this coverage - I certainly haven't .
    In brief: A UPS with PWM output will not harm your computer; switching power supplies are more than capable of handling this. If the noise bothers you, look for a UPS with "pure sine wave" output - you will pay more for this feature; it's an aesthetic choice in this case.

  • Cleaning up noisy vocal tracks

    I have a few hundred vocal tracks to clean up, ie: room noise, lip smacks, coughs, etc. in between the actually singing. Right now I am manually going through eacj track and putting silence where I want it. Strip silence is not the best, as there are coughs, etc. that would be above the setting and it's hard to be accurate so as not to lose subtle beginnings and endings.
    So...any suggestions that could save me days of cleaning the tracks up manually.
    BTW, I am not mixing the tracks. I am importing them to Pro Tools at another studio and having them do it, so I can't just throw a gate on them.
    Thanks!

    What Jim said and...
    What I do is instead of cutting the track completely to quiet it, is I used the features in Logic to reduce the level of the part of a track way way down. So even if there is a lip smack, I focus on that and take down the amplitude until I can barely hear it with the track soloed. It's not total quiet, you won't hear it in the mix and you don't get the super quiet of killing the sound.
    Second, on your breaths, like Jim said don't take them out, however, listen to the volume of the breath as compared to the vocals, sometimes the breath is louder than the first word, so again turn down the volume of the breath so it sounds more natural as part of the sound, and second be sure that your breaths are on beat. I know this sounds crazy, but if you listen to CDs there are breaths in all vocals, but they're on beat, if they're not then you'll hear that and they will throw you off, the breaths become part of the beat of the song. If the breath is off, move it left or right depending on how far off it is.
    There is no shortcut to what you're trying to do. Put in the time to get the right result. once you get going, you'll find a grove. I can edit a 4 minute song now (2 tracks of vocals) in about 5 mins. Just find the technique that works and apply the effect to it.
    The other thing you want to keep in mind is that while YOU may not want to put a gate on it, the engineer in the other studio can and will put one on if a track is a bit noisy, so just get it good/great enough for him to work with. Let him/her do his/her job And since it sounds like you're going in a real high end studio, the gate they have I'm sure will be good enough
    If you do too much you might end up making the engineer's life harder!
    R

  • How to measure the baseline of a noisy, pulsed signal

    Hi
    I am measuring the torque exerted by a large motor on a shaft using a load cell and lever arm. The shaft runs at approx 150 rpm. I have attached a drawing that shows the output I get. This is a test rig.
    I have written some code that measures the maximum peak out of a group of approx 5 peaks and writes this to a shift register. This gives me an idea of the maximum torque "spike".
    I also wish to measure the baseline torque (due to the bearings in the machine). Even when highly filtered (my noise filter is set to 49Hz) the signal exhibits this noise which is probably due to vibration in the system. The signal is zeroed when the motor is not running.
    Does anyone have an ideas on how to measure the "baseline" torque? The large spike in torque prevents me from doing a running average. Can anyone think of a way of averaging just the noisy part of the signal to get an average value? I aim to to subtract the average baseline torque from the peak value to get an idea of the torque due to the event which causes
    the spike.
    Any help would be greatly appreciated.
    Many thanks.
    Attachments:
    drawing of torque signal.gif ‏26 KB

    Thanks for the reply. I understand what you are saying. However, I might have to modify my method for measuring the peaks if I choose to implement your idea. I have taken a screenshot of my "peak finder" code and attached it.
    Bascially, the reset terminal is wired to a timer which outputs a pulse every few seconds. This resets the vi (a standard NI one I think) and sets the peak magnitude back to zero. This way, I am windowing the signal and measuring the maximum peak in every window. This is what I need to do.
    So I could use a logical filter to feed data to the running average only if;
    the amplitude of the signal is less than a certain threshold
    and if the current value has similar low peaks either side of it
    How would you construct the code to delay the evaluation so that the values in front and behind of the current data point can be analysed?
    thanks again
    Attachments:
    peak_find_screenshot.jpg ‏45 KB

  • Why Hp does not find any solution for Noisy Fan systems ?

    I got DV6t  core i5  6gb ram + 1gb Ati Radeon Graphic Card (6490m) + bluetooth + Bluray 
    I have to return it because of that noisy fan ; i was a new member of Hp family and i never investigate about that product for Laptop. After it got that gorgeous Laptop , i got this fan issue ; and i research that fan is working normal/anormal ; what i find out is Hp has a Noisy Fan Issue on all of the Video clips , Forum Websites even its own website ; I realy didnt know till i got it. If that is a common issue , Why that big brand HP doesnt solve that problem since many years ? I sincerely doesnt want to return this item because of fan ; because there is no comparative product in others company has .... (Bluetooth + Bluray + Finger print + 1gb (Integrated Graphic) and $749 ; i can not find any brand or product which includes that options in this price ..... So UNFORTUNATELY i am returning that Beautiful Laptop Because of ridiculous fan noise ; is that really hard to install a fan which is really silence ??? I have a Toshiba brand laptop , even the fan is working  hard there is no bothering noise at all (Even its 4 years old) . I was thinking that Hp product has high performance equipment thats why this fan works hard or noisy because it could be stronger than my Toshiba which has core 2 duo technology 256 mb graphic card ; But i was wrong because of this video clip ; http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-yLEXZGRGPY

    I got DV6t  core i5  6gb ram + 1gb Ati Radeon Graphic Card (6490m) + bluetooth + Bluray 
    I have to return it because of that noisy fan ; i was a new member of Hp family and i never investigate about that product for Laptop. After it got that gorgeous Laptop , i got this fan issue ; and i research that fan is working normal/anormal ; what i find out is Hp has a Noisy Fan Issue on all of the Video clips , Forum Websites even its own website ; I realy didnt know till i got it. If that is a common issue , Why that big brand HP doesnt solve that problem since many years ? I sincerely doesnt want to return this item because of fan ; because there is no comparative product in others company has .... (Bluetooth + Bluray + Finger print + 1gb (Integrated Graphic) and $749 ; i can not find any brand or product which includes that options in this price ..... So UNFORTUNATELY i am returning that Beautiful Laptop Because of ridiculous fan noise ; is that really hard to install a fan which is really silence ??? I have a Toshiba brand laptop , even the fan is working  hard there is no bothering noise at all (Even its 4 years old) . I was thinking that Hp product has high performance equipment thats why this fan works hard or noisy because it could be stronger than my Toshiba which has core 2 duo technology 256 mb graphic card ; But i was wrong because of this video clip ; http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-yLEXZGRGPY

  • Satellite R630-155 - Fan is too noisy and SSD upgrade

    I am the owner of a Toshiba Satellite R630-155 (Core i5-480). My problems are:
    1. The fan is too noisy and never stops. In normal operation (browsing and general office work) there is a constant high pitch noise that is audible three to four meters away in an office environment - in high load you just can't stand it!!! The fan never stops... even when you are doing nothing...
    2. Heat is a big problem. The bottom of the laptop is constantly overheating and i have to place it on my desk in a way that the bottom left corner is outside of the table so it can breath fresh air from below - if not, the temperature rises and the (loud) fan is unable to keep up. When i work with the laptop while sitting on a sofa, i have to place a thick book between the laptop and my legs. The book must be thick (more than an inch) with hard covers, otherwise the heat passes through the book!!!!
    3. Last (but not least, i just mention the biggest problems here) it's the problem with SSD installation. I bought a used Corsair F80 (80Gb SSD) from a friend, but i was unable to use it with the Toshiba - the BIOS was not detecting the disk. I tried installing all latest firmware updates for both laptop and SSD but i had no success. Then i gave the disk back and i bought a brand new Zalman 128Gb SSD (SSD0128N1 Sandforce) but i had exactly the same problem. I contacted my local Toshiba support and after a lot of conversation the only answer i got is that the laptop is not compatible with those SSD's and this is acceptable by Toshiba and not their problem. They told me that if i need an SSD upgrade i can only go for the Toshiba SSD that is installed on the portege series, which is sold by Toshiba for a ridiculously expensive price - about $500 for 128Gb. I contacted the European support center and i got the exact same reply. I searched on the Internet and i found someone else with the exact same problem with a Corsair 128Gb SSD - he found that the laptop detects the SSD after ten to twenty reboots. I tried that and it was true - after a lot of reboots the laptop detected the Zalman disk and i was able to install Windows 7 successfully, but the process is unacceptable. Also the disk is benchmarked by official sites at the speed of an OCZ Vertex 2 128Gb (and slightly better), but when i ran a benchmark in the Toshiba, the results I got were below half of the advertised speed. Same benchmark in another machine for the same disk, resulted in the advertised speeds.
    Shame for Toshiba... nice design and portability but everything else is a big flaw. Their support in non existent and they do not value their customers. I feel they stole my money and I'll never buy a Toshiba laptop again.
    Sorry for the big message, but I need I have to warn potential customers. Can someone help me with any of the above problems? Do you have the same problems too?
    To be continued...

    Hi buddy,
    Regarding the fan and heat issue: Did you make BIOS update? Friend of me has Satellite R630 too and he told me that fan activity with new BIOS version 2.10 is reduced. Furthermore the notebook is cooler than before so I would recommend installing this update. You can download the BIOS update here:
    http://eu.computers.toshiba-europe.com > Support & Downloads > Download Drivers
    But before you start the BIOS update you should consider the following tips:
    -Run update as Administrator only
    -Unzip all files from zip archive before you start the update file
    -Close all running programs and also the antivirus and firewall
    -Make sure that battery is fully charged
    Regarding the SSDs its always a little bit complicated installing 3rd party products and nobody can guarantee that such parts would work. You are always on safely side with original Toshiba spare parts.
    Everything what you can do is installing the newest firmware for SSD and hope that it works but who knows maybe the BIOS update will also help you in this case ;)

  • 5770 and 5870 in Mac Pro 2009 - noisy PCIe expansion bay fan

    I replaced the Geforce GT120 by the ATI radeon 5770 in my Mac Pro Quad 2.66 Nehalem. I had severe trouble with the speed of the fan of the PCI-e expansion bay: 2000 RPM and really noisy. After 30-60 minutes it slowed down and became silent, but upon reboot the noise and the high speed were there again.
    I have sent the 5770 back to Apple. I am considering to try the 5870, but I am afraid I will be in trouble again.
    With the GT 120, the fan speed is only 800 RPM and the Mac is silent. The ATI Radeon cards require one or two power cables connecting to the logic board.
    Could that be the cause of the problems or was the 5770 a bad card? Or is it the logic board. I ran the Apple Hardware Test. everything was OK.
    I checked it with Techtool Pro and there were no problems found.
    Any help would be much appreciated. I have zapped the PRAM and reset the SMC without result.
    Kind regards and thanks of reading.

    If it is any consolation I have the same machine and installed the Radeon 5770 and have intermittent high expansion bay fan speeds (1400-2400rpm). I just checked this board today because it seems more noisy today than in a while and the ambient air is listed as 78 degrees F. The card has it's own fan and exhaust slots in the back of the card and the air from them is warm but not what I would consider hot. I had had two video cards and a eSATA card installed and never had a problem. Now with just this card and the eSATA it exists. I'm betting if I call Apple about it they will tell me it's only listed on their site as compatible with the 2010 Mac Pros, so, for now I will live with it.

  • Hard drive is noisy

    hello, i have an hp elitebook 8570w, running on windows 7 64 bit. it is fairly new (around 4 months old). it has been extremely noisy in the past few days (4 or so), and i am pretty sure the noise is coming from the hard drive. the noise begins as soon as i boot up my computer so it doesnt have to do with it heating up. before that the computer would heat up often because i sometimes put it on my bed, which i know is not the best place to put it. after the noise started i bought a cooling board so now the computer never gets hot at all. the noise is coming from the left side under the laptop. and it is a constant huming or grinding like sound (pretty supid description, but i dont know how to explain it), it is fairly loud and it´s been driving me crazy. also no clicking or anything. i believe it comes from the hard drive, but i am not an expert so i cant be sure. my hard drive model is "hitachi hts727550a9e364". i tried to defrag it, but it was 0% fragmented, since the computer is fairly new. i also have an antivirus, and i did a full scan and the computer was not infected. it hasn't caused any apparent performance issues. please help me, this sound is driving me crazy, i cant concentrate and do my work because of it.

    The type of sound you describe sounds way more like the cooling fan than the hard drive. Hard drive noise is not constant...it is usually clicky like a playing card in the spokes of a bicycle ridden fairly slowly and stopping and starting as the hard drive is accessed. There is a built in hard drive checker in the BIOS...hit F10 as you boot up and loo for the hard drive test in the menus. Run the full length one and see if you get errors.  

  • Hard drive is a little noisy

    My hard drive is pretty noisy when it accesses information, opening a folder, launches an application, etc. Louder than my G5. Anyone else had this?

    There isn't much clarity (or documentation) about this, but if you order the Mac Pro for delivery now, without the Airpot upgrade, you get the machine now. If you add that option for the additional fee you have to wait 4 weeks. That's because they are still developing the new "Aiport Express" card, due out in a month. Read this article:
    http://www.thinksecret.com/news/0608airportexpress.html
    You can imagine my surprise when I tried to find a place to put my airport extreme card into my Mac Pro, there was no place for it to go. You can however buy a PCI Wireless card and install it in your mac and you should be good to go.
    http://www.macosxhints.com/article.php?story=20030902125640641

  • Late 2011 MacBook Pro 13" noisy fan.

    Hi everyone, about a month ago I purchased my MacBook Pro 13" Late 2011. Some info about it:
    OS X 10.9.4
    2.4 GHz Intel Core i5
    4 GB Ram
    Intel HD Graphics 3000 384 MB
    Anyway, from when i bought it, there was no issue with the fan, but recently, from about a weak, the fan is a bit noisy even when I am not running any programs. I vacuumed the vents in hope of removing dust, didn't work. I also did a reset which I was advised to do. Turn of the mac, hold SHIFT + CTRL + OPTION + POWER BUTTON at the same time and release at the same thing (while the laptop is charging) then turn it on. It also did not help. Any other recommendations will be appreciated.. Thank you.

    Not possible. The screen, glass cover and aluminum housing are sealed, Glued together. Not that you or someone else couldn't take those parts apart, that is possible, but finding just the aluminum housing would be nearly impossible as Apple doesn't even sell that housing as a part.

  • Computer really noisy (fan I think?). Resetting PRAM and SMC does not work.

    Hi,
    so basically, as the title says, my computer is making a really loud noise as soon as I turn it on, I am presuming it is the fan.
    Over a month ago, my computer started to constantly crash, and about two weeks ago I took it to a Genius Bar for a diagnosis. The problem was a hard drive failure, so I had it replaced and yesterday I brought it back home.
    However, after the fix, the computer now runs fine, but there is a really loud noise from the computer.
    I have tried resetting the PRAM and SMC like some other threads have suggested, and none of them have worked. I have tried restarting, shutting down the computer and everything suggested.
    The computer has never made this noise in this manner before.
    Before the fix, the only time it would be noisy like this is when I wake it from sleep, just left it there (on screen requiring username and password) and it sleeps again, and if I wake it from sleep, then it would be loud like this, but that is solved by just simply sleeping the computer again and waking it, and it will be all quiet again.
    However, now, it makes this loud noise as soon as I turn the computer on, and as long as the computer is not shut down or asleep, it will make this noise.
    Before the fix, my OS was 10.4.11, but the Genius Bar had installed 10.5.8 on this hard drive.
    Is this a software problem or a hardware one?
    Anyone got any suggestions or ideas how to fix this?
    I have called the Apple store I visited for this fix already, they push me over to AppleCare and AppleCare pushes me back to Apple store and they tell me they cannot provide technical support over the phone and would need me to take the computer back to the Genius Bar.
    I am just not happy about this. I live almost an hour away from the closest store and I have university to attend to as well.
    So I am hoping this problem can be resolved without having to go back to the Genius Bar, although all methods I have read so far do not help.
    Thanks,
    From Lelouch

    Hi, well, the thing is, I am just worried that, while making other repairs, they might have damaged something unintentionally and probably do not know about it, which would not be documented.
    My initial problem of a loud fan, after a hard drive replacement, was fixed, so I do not hear it anymore, but this wind-like noise is different. With the iMacs, I presume the fans are towards the top, which was where the loud fan noise came from, however, this wind-like noise seems to come from the bottom of the computer screen are, centre and right side (in the direction I face it), but not the left side.
    I describe it as wind-like, but it sounds a bit like when the computer is on heavy demand and the computer loads, yet different as it is quieter and slightly different in pattern, and unlike the usual heavy demand noise which comes from the top, it comes from the bottom.
    I actually installed a temperature widget after my last repair, just in case my fan was just simply tuned off and would not come on at all for the sake of fixing the loud noise it was making.
    The temperatures read as follows:
    HD: 31
    CPU: 27
    Ambient: 17
    GPU: 36
    GPU Diode: 46
    GPU Heatsink: 36
    HD Bay: 33
    Optical Drive: 30
    To my knowledge, these should be fine temperatures?
    But the noise persists regardless. The noise can instantly be heard (providing that it is quiet enough) as soon as the computer starts up.
    Thanks,
    From Lelouch

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