Noisy Power Supply on FiOS SDTV box

Hello.
Okay, My uncle on Staten Island has FiOS, and has four sets. three HD sets and one older SD set in the basement. When the FiOS service was installed, the TV in the basement had suddenly developed severe amounts of snow caused by RFI from something. Since they had sent him a new SD box, we had connected this in, and got no snow. Okay, get lazy and put the old one back in, and..........still no snow!
Long story short, the problem was the wall-wart power supply sent with the first box was generating severe amounts of RFI that was being picked up by the TV set (an older 70s-80s dial-type set with 300 ohm terminals). We just left the new power supply in place with the original box, and all worked perfectly.
Has anyone else ever had an issue with RFI on older sets from these units?
(PS: Swapping the old PSU back in, even with the new box, brought the massive snowstorm back)
[Can you hear me now? Good!]
Verizon Wireless - It's the Network!

Pobster,
Switching power supplies (such as those used in computers) do not require a "pure" analog sine wave input; they are more than capable of running on PWM/stepped sine wave input. The noise from the power supply when running on power from a PWM output UPS does not indicate that damage is being done to your machine; it's a harmless side effect.
Some equipment will be damaged if powered via PWM input; items with compressors (refrigerators, air conditioners) definitely fall into this category, as well as some medical equipment and telecom equipment.
I live in an area with notoriously dirty power; a UPS is critical in my case (I'd argue that it is critical in any case, however). I've ran my equipment on UPSs for many years, and the price has dropped significantly. I've got one APC SmartUPS with pure sine wave output which was purchased for me by a client, but most of my equipment is running on UPS with PWM output. It's not uncommon for me to have 20-30 power events in a given day - most of them transient voltage drops or spikes; I've still got an old Sun Sparc 10 file server that's still chugging along.
A couple of interesting articles for your perusal:
http://www.macosxhints.com/article.php?story=20051009043816537
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pulse-width_modulation
A quick google will turn up lots more information on the topic. APC used to have a white paper on their site which talked about this very topic.
Most manufacturers provide connected equipment insurance - tripp lite, for example, provides $250,000(US) coverage. I've never known anyone who actually needed to use this coverage - I certainly haven't .
In brief: A UPS with PWM output will not harm your computer; switching power supplies are more than capable of handling this. If the noise bothers you, look for a UPS with "pure sine wave" output - you will pay more for this feature; it's an aesthetic choice in this case.

Similar Messages

  • Noisy power supply when running of UPS?... follow up post.

    Ned/The hatter your input here would be most appreciated along with anyone else using a UPS with your mac pro. Please read on...
    Having just concluded a rather detailed any lengthy post over in the power mac g5 forum with regards to loud buzzing noise from the power supply running of battery backup.
    I recemmend reviewing the link below for the full and i think interesting read...
    Linked here: http://discussions.apple.com/thread.jspa?threadID=665537&tstart=0
    To sum it up it concluded that my model of UPS (Belkin) produces a simulated sine wave. I am unsure of technicals here, but this then makes the power supply in powermac G5's make a nasty electrical noise as the unit works to sort it out. What is ideal is a pure sine wave i understand.
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    Anyhow it turns out that the RS series from APC also makes the G5 powermac make a noise. And i am aware that Ned along with some others use the APC RS series with there mac pro's. What i am looking to find out is... Do you have a noise from your power supplys when running on battery backup with your new shiney mac pro's?
    The APC smart ups series however does not make the powermac G5 make a noise this has been confirmed by several users. I guess this is because these models produce pure wave sine.
    As you can see this has all got very complicated and over my head.
    The reason for me coming into this forum and asking about noisy power supplys when using certain UPS is because shortly i will be switching to a Mac pro. And if the power supplys in these are different and dont make a noise when running under battery with certain APC Rs's and the new Dual form belkin units then i wont return my current belkin model in exchange for a APC smart ups. I will just live it for a short time whilst i own my G5 and just hope it wont do any damage if and when we have a power outage.
    Thank you to anyone that can guide or assist me with this dilemma. Cheers Pob

    Pobster,
    Switching power supplies (such as those used in computers) do not require a "pure" analog sine wave input; they are more than capable of running on PWM/stepped sine wave input. The noise from the power supply when running on power from a PWM output UPS does not indicate that damage is being done to your machine; it's a harmless side effect.
    Some equipment will be damaged if powered via PWM input; items with compressors (refrigerators, air conditioners) definitely fall into this category, as well as some medical equipment and telecom equipment.
    I live in an area with notoriously dirty power; a UPS is critical in my case (I'd argue that it is critical in any case, however). I've ran my equipment on UPSs for many years, and the price has dropped significantly. I've got one APC SmartUPS with pure sine wave output which was purchased for me by a client, but most of my equipment is running on UPS with PWM output. It's not uncommon for me to have 20-30 power events in a given day - most of them transient voltage drops or spikes; I've still got an old Sun Sparc 10 file server that's still chugging along.
    A couple of interesting articles for your perusal:
    http://www.macosxhints.com/article.php?story=20051009043816537
    http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pulse-width_modulation
    A quick google will turn up lots more information on the topic. APC used to have a white paper on their site which talked about this very topic.
    Most manufacturers provide connected equipment insurance - tripp lite, for example, provides $250,000(US) coverage. I've never known anyone who actually needed to use this coverage - I certainly haven't .
    In brief: A UPS with PWM output will not harm your computer; switching power supplies are more than capable of handling this. If the noise bothers you, look for a UPS with "pure sine wave" output - you will pay more for this feature; it's an aesthetic choice in this case.

  • Noisy power supply fan QS 2002

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  • Noisy Power Supply Fan?

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    Hello, William, and welcome to the Discussions.
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  • Noisy power supply when running of UPS? Is this normal?

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    Thankyou everyone for all of your responces. I think we're getting to the bottom of things now. It would appear that when in battery back up mode my UPS is generating a square wave which my powermac is not liking at all. And the power supply is working to put this right. Weather the work the power supply is doing and the noise generated is a sign of harm to my computer is still some what unclear. But it does not seem like a good noise as it is not normal.
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    DaddyPaycheck - My belkin model number is F6C1500EITW-RK. Quite a new model i think, dual form, 1500VA. Very pleased with all the features. This model does have AVR too (Automatic Voltage Regulation) But it would appear from what everyone has said along with some other findings about the web that this unit produces square wave! I guess yours is Sine wave hence you not having any problems.
    I will probably end up returning this unit and buying an APC SUA1500i. As its been confirmed in this thread and the other thread that was linked to as producing a nice sine wave which is what i want. Again thank you everyone. Pob

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    liamstears wrote:
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  • Can electrical surges go through the FIOS ONT Box

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    There is no electrical connection between the Verizon Central Office and the ONT. It is strictly optical, so there is no conductor for the surge to travel down from the Central Office. So the ONT cannot be electrically damaged from the Optical end of the connection.
    However the ONT could be damaged  from Coax or Ethernet end, or the ONT power supply could be 'fried' by a surge in the local power line. The Scenario is that if the surge voltage is high enough, it breaks the isolation normally provided by the power supplies in the equipment, and can propagate down the Coax and/or Ethernet cable and/or HDMI cable from either end. . In that case the ONT can effectively be 'fried' by having the surge propagate through the Coax or Ethernet (if you have Ethernet on the ONT instead of MoCA) to the ONT. It doesn't take a whole lot of energy to fry Coax or Ethernet ports on the devices.
    The typical scenario is either some sort of accident drops a high tension line onto much lower voltage transmission line (this sometime happens when a vehicle collides with, and takes down a telephone pole, or large branch falls on a line). The other scenario is a direct lightning strike on the local distribution line. Either way, equipment that is supposed to see only 120VAC can in fact seen voltages in the thousand or tens of thousands of volts until the electric company's switching equipment either clear the fault, or shut down the line(s).. In either situation, considerable damage can be inflicted on just about anything electronic that was connected at the time. The energy delivered by a lightning bolt vastly exceeds the surge protection provided by any consumer surge protector.
    From where you sit, whether it is the optical end that was damaged, or the ethernet/coax end of the ONT, the ONT will no longer provide service for you.
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    They also assume that the surge isn't 'common mode'. BTW, I am an Electrical Engineer with education in high voltage transmisson system and insulation.

  • Really odd behavior on startup and power supply

    Hi there,
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    Hi, Kurt. What you're seeing with the ringlight on the adapter is normal behavior for an adapter connected to a noisy or "dirty" AC power line. It's not an adapter fault, and is nothing to worry about except that it may impact other devices, such as your iPod, that are connected and drawing bus power when the adapter shuts down. See item 2 in this article for a brief explanation and suggested remedy:
    http://docs.info.apple.com/article.html?artnum=302461
    This is off the main subject, but since you mentioned it, I'm very interested to hear that your iPod Touch works normally when connected to your IOGear USB 2.0 card. Does the card draw bus power from one of your built-in USB 1.1 ports or from its own AC adapter, or is it supplying sufficient power all on its own to run the iPod?
    Many people have posted here about troubles getting USB 2.0 devices, and iPods in particular, to work when connected to USB 2 cards in Tibooks. It seems that many such devices need more power than these cards can supply without auxiliary power. If the IOGear card can somehow pass along more power than others (which seems unlikely), or if the the iPod Touch doesn't need as much power as other iPod models (which also seems unlikely), those would be useful things to know.
    Message was edited by: eww

  • I had an Intel-iMac fried by lightening. UPS, surge protectors but it happened as I was reaching to unplug.  Cold now.  Could it just be the power supply?  Can I replace that myself?

    This is the full question since I couldn't get it all in the box. 
    I have some complex questions regarding an iMac, a Time-Machine backup, and iTunes on an iPod.
    I live about halfway up an extinct volcano about 12 miles north of San Jose Costa Rica.  Some months ago, we had a thunderstorm and as I reached to unplug my computers lightening struck about 50 meters from my house.  I had an iMac with a 3-Tb external backup drive, a PC laptop and a laser printer on the same power strip.  There was a definite surge and the light brighten and then power was lost for a few minutes.
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    Is is possible that the power supply was fried and not other essential parts?  Would it be worthwhile to replace the power supply?  Can I, with limited experience and tools do it or need I take it to a technician?  My concern is that if the hard-drive is good, there is personal information on it that I don't want to risk
    Quite possible, but working on iMacs is not easy, & PSU might be prohibitive.
    Hopefully the Drive might have info on it, but even pulling that out can be a chore.
    If you don't know the model, find the Serial# & use it on one of these sites, but don't post the Serial# here...
    http://www.chipmunk.nl/klantenservice/applemodel.html
    http://www.appleserialnumberinfo.com/Desktop/index.php
    How to find the serial number of your Apple hardware product...
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    I have replaced the iPod but have not tried to restore the iTunes library to it because of my confusion about how to do that.  Can anyone tell me how I might do that or give me any insight into the process?
    I'd get an external drive & restore the whole works to it, then boot from the External drive.

  • Shock Therapy - An Athlon64 / FX Power Supply Guide

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    The pins that are used for the modular plugs are not very good at passing current. It's basically electrical resistance between the male and female components, and voltage "drops" are likely. In real world events, they will become loose, dirty, corrosive, and eventually burn. You can figure about 10% less efficiency with a modular power supply.
    Now you can understand how manufacturing "tolerances" that are inaccurate by 40% to 60%, can have such a devastating effect on
    the performance of your new system. If you follow these simple guidelines, bearing in mind the hardware you will be using, and what
    your intended use of the computer is for...then it will be one less dramatic incident when pushing the power button for the first time!
    Here's a neat little tool....a bit out of date - that can give you a basic idea of what you'll need in a PSU.
    You can apply the percentages above, for an even more accurate assesment of your PSU requirements!
    http://www.jscustompcs.com/power_supply/Power_Supply_Calculator.php?cmd=AMD

    Quote
    In doing the math...on a system incorporating an Athlon64 (say a 4000+), 2 sticks of high-end RAM, 2 or 3 PCI cards, 1 mid-to-high
    end AGP video card, 2 ~ 7,200 RPM hard drives, and a couple of CD/RW or DVD/RW opticals...you're looking at a "base" requirement of 270 to 325 watts. That's for a running system...now figure boot-up loads, 30% for heat and radiation bleed-off, then a 40% safety factor for manufacturing inconsistencies...you've got a power supply in the 450 to 520 watt range!
    Well, except the CPU, my system has all that you mentioned there (I even have 3 optical drives). And my 350W PSU has been rock solid for more than a year (BeQuiet, = Tagan, IIRC). I don't think a 4000+ needs 100W more than my 3200+ . And that link you posted says that the minimum recommended PSU for my system is 506W  xD. Come on.
    Oh, and in the place I work there are 6 amd64 with GeForce 6800 GT and 2GB RAM with 380W Antec PSUs. All 100% stable, of course.
    I would only go for >400W if I wanted to do extreme OC (with overvolting), or SLI. Otherwise, a good brand 350W PSU is more than enough.

  • Choosing the Right Power Supply

    First things first. If you've got a poor-quality and/or faulty power supply, nothing else you do will work to solve your problems. Stick to the basics before you go further...The short answer is to buy a hi-powered, brand name supply, like the new ENERMAX line (430 W or higher) or ANTEC True550. Almost nothing else will do with today's computers. In over 30 years of electronic/computer service, I have found that 85% or more of problems were power-related.
    If you want to know more, read on...
    Choosing The Right Power Supply
    If you’re reading this, there’s a good chance that one of my colleagues or I believe that you could be experiencing problems with your power supply, based upon the symptoms you mentioned in your post, and provided you with this link. Relax, you’re not alone. In 30 years of electronic and computer troubleshooting, I’d say that the majority of the electronic, mainframe, mini, and microcomputer problems I’ve diagnosed and repaired were with the basic power the problematic device was receiving. The symptoms often included random reboots, crashing, the BSOD, lockups, etc.
    (As the national support technician for few major computer service companies, working US Defense contracts, I was often the person that had to fly in and correct the problem, or “walk through” the on-site technician as he closely followed my instructions. I achieved success in my career by carefully reading the manuals, knowing where to go for more information that was otherwise unavailable to me, and/or systematically troubleshooting until the problems were discovered and repaired. I never had the option of giving up.)
    The most overlooked component when building or upgrading a PC is the power supply unit (PSU). Some people use their old case and PSU when they upgrade. Some use the PSU that came with their new case. Some people even buy a new PSU. And most inexperienced builders all make the same mistake: The PSU that they’re trying to use is simply inadequate for the job.
    Suppose you’re upgrading to a new motherboard, CPU, ram, and video card, but still using the old case and PSU. It’s most likely that you’re upgrading in order to build a machine that is more powerful, faster, has a more colorful display, can number-crunch more quickly, play the latest games, etc. These gains in performance all have one thing in common: They require more raw power. However, have you thought about where that power comes from?
    Suppose you’re building a new system with a new case and PSU. Has it occurred to you that the company that you bought the case/PSU from might make more money if they skimp on the supply, even if the supply has a large wattage rating? Most bulk power supply manufacturers don’t make good PSU’s. They use older, cheaper technology, and slap on labels that represent the PSU’s peak outputs, and not their continuous output rating. These companies are intentionally misleading you in order to sell you an inferior product. Brands I avoid when building/repairing my friends’ and family’s computers: Allied, Q-Tec, Chieftech, and many others.
    For those of you who bought a power supply separately, did you know that you’re only supposed to run a power supply continuously at 30-70% (with 50% being optimal) of its continuous rating for maximum efficiency (which means less heat to you)? Most inexperienced builders either buy PSU’s that are matched to their equipment’s continuous power usage, or ones that are even less powerful than they need. Why? Because they’re trying to save money.
    I mean, what’s the fun in a power supply? You don’t get any games with it, there’s no more storage, hardly ever any more bells and whistles, etc. A power supply is boring, and it’s supposed to be, because it’s supposed to provide a stable, reliable platform upon which the rest of the equipment can easily access the amount of power it needs, and when it’s needed. In almost EVERY review of powers supplies, the same point is stressed: Better safe than sorry.
    But what does safe vs sorry mean? It can mean that you don’t have to waste money on the wrong PSU in the first place, but it can also mean that you don’t have to replace your expensive ram, CPU, video card, etc. NEEDLESSLY, or because your cheap PSU destroyed them. What? A cheap power supply can wreck your computer? YES IT CAN. A cheap power supply can cause thermal damage, not only from the heat it produces, but also the heat it can create in your components as well. RAM is especially sensitive to heat, and there’s RAM in your CPU, your video cards, and, well, your RAM too. A cheap switching power supply, run at its maximum, or peak, continuously can also destroy components by creating RF (Radio Frequency) signals on your power rails, signals which the components on your peripheral devices were not equipped to handle in the first place.
    So this begs the question, how does one choose the right power supply? I’ll illustrate this using my own PC as the example. This is my setup that I use for video processing:
    K7N2G-ILSR
    Athlon 2500+ Barton @ 2125Mhz
    AMD Retail Heatsink/Fan
    2 - 512MB DDR333 w/Thermaltake Spreaders (slot 1&3)
    MSI TV@nywhere Video Capture
    ATI Radeon 9600
    120GB Maxtor DiamondMax Plus 9 SATA
    30GB Quantum IDE
    TEAC DV-W50E DVD/CD-R/W
    BTC DVD-ROM Drive
    Artec CD-R/W
    Using this Power Supply Calculator link:
    http://www.jscustompcs.com/power_supply/
    I plug in all my equipment values, but some of this can be a little tricky. For example, since I often run the CPU like an XP 3000, I choose the 3000 as my processor; it’s the same chip run at the faster rate. I also choose the ATI Radeon video card, and I select the RAM wattage for 2 sticks of DDR. I also choose every card I have, like my video capture card, but I also select the boxes for the separate cards that correspond to the functions that my ILSR provides as well (and that I use), like sound, USB, Firewire, NIC, etc.  Although I use the onboard SATA controller, I don’t select the SCSI PCI card, because, in truth, I’ve probably made up for it by selecting all the other corresponding devices, including cards that the motherboard replaces. I check the boxes for the fans and drives I use, and I’m done, right?
    Not yet.
    I just remembered that I plan to upgrade soon, so I go back and change the values to reflect my impending changes. I mean, I want to make sure that I have enough power to begin with so that I don’t have to replace the power supply again, right?
    Ok. Done. I look at the bottom and see that it tells me that I need a 468 watt PSU. So a 480 watt supply will do, right? Wrong.
    Remember that, for efficiency, long-life, and less heat, you want your actual power consumption to fall between 30-70% of the PSU’s rating, so add 30% (minimum) to the 468, and you get 468 + (468*.30)= 608 Watts! Holy Cow!
    However, I’d only need a 608-Watt supply if I was using all the devices at once, and I don’t. But, in truth, with video and audio processing, I often get close when I process, burn, and monitor at the same time. (Hardcore gamers also get close a lot, as they blast the sound and push that video to its limits.) So, let’s take off 10% (maximum) of 608, for a total of 541 Watts.
    I need a 550 Watt supply, but not just ANY 550 watt PSU. I need a supply that can give me enough power on the critical 3.3, 5, and 12V rails combined. I also want a supply from a trusted, name-brand manufacturer, so I start hitting the many online reviews. Here are just two from Tom’s Hardware:
    http://www6.tomshardware.com/howto/20030609/index.html
    http://www6.tomshardware.com/howto/20021021/index.html
    Read these in their entirety. I didn’t post them because they’re pretty links.
    In the end, I chose Antec, because they’ve got the reputation, the recommendation, and because the Antec True550 has better specs than the rest of the 550 Watt competition. I also bought it from a reputable company I found on Pricegrabber.com, for the lowest price I could find, $95.00 shipped to my door. (In truth, I wanted two mini-redundant supplies, like the hospitals and military use, but they were too expensive.)
    The result? Not only are the random reboots, crashing, the BSOD, lockups, etc., gone like magic, but I also now have “peace of mind” in that whatever might happen to my equipment in the future, I know almost for certain that the PSU is NOT the problem. I also bought an UPS, because the East Coast Blackout proved to me that even the Antec True550 isn’t going to provide me any power for emergency shutdown if it doesn’t get its power from somewhere.
    Even if your problem doesn’t lie in the PSU completely, it gives you a GREAT platform for troubleshooting further. If you’re not reasonably certain that the supply is the cause, borrow one, or buy one that you can return once you’ve solved the problem. But, above all else, BUY THE RIGHT SUPPLY before you do anything else! Otherwise, you could be plugging and unplugging components, buying and blowing up expensive memory, and causing even further damage, until you give up or die.
    I mean, I assume you built your own system to enjoy “more bang for your buck,” right? What’s the fun of a random reboot in the middle of Unreal Tournament 2003?
    William Hopkins
    Former Staff Sergeant, USAF
    B.A., B.S., with Honors
    The University of California, San Diego
    [email protected]
    P.S. It should be noted that while Enermax, ThermalTake, Zalman, Fortron, and others make great PSU’s, and I compared and considered them, the Antec still won out overall in my critical evaluation, like it did in so may others’ reviews. You’d probably be ok if you went with another reputable manufacturer as listed above, but pick a supply that gives you at least 230 watts on the 3.3 and 5V lines combined, and still meets the 30% criteria as stated above. Remember, if the manufacturers don’t give you maximum combined specs up front, they’re untrustworthy right off the bat. With power supplies, you definitely end up getting what you pay for. Don’t say nobody warned you.
    P.P.S. Update! After recent developments, it looks like Enermax is the leader, but only the latest line of PSU's.

    Ok, as an electrical engineer...I have to step in here! LOL
    First, these amp rating are for 2 +12 rails. That is why you see a protection of around 15-18A on the +12 rail. That means each Rail is allowed up to 18A lets say for the new Enermax 1.2 version like the one I have.
    Now, Lets say 18A for 12V....well as you know the Abit NF7-S uses the 12V for powering the CPU.
    Lets say you have a Barton like me and you want it stable at around 2.4-2.5Ghz. You will have to put lets say around 2V to the cpu to get it stable at that kinda speed, specially if you have high FSB like I do. So 12V * 18Amps = 216W ....well the converter on the NFS-7 is really bad, its loss on the step down convertion is probably around 25% along with the PSU lost cuz its not running at 25oC (another 15%)....you will actually only get around 100-120W for the CPU.
    Now, if you go into Sandra and see how much a Barton eats up at 2.4Ghz you will see its around 110Watts.
    So, if you wanna push more, dont even think about it! Prime Power test fails and your +12 rail will drop as low as 11.60 Volts.
    Now, lets say you got yourself a AMD 64 bit chip and you wanna overclock it....I bet it will need more than 110Watts.
    So, what im saying is, dont buy nothing less than a 500 Watt PSU!
    You really need around 20-22 A on the main +12 along with really really good cooling on the case and PSU so it is running at a 100%.
    http://forums.amdmb.com/showindex.php?s=&threadid=287828
    i found this quite interesting especially the bit re the power loss turning the 12v into 1.6v or what ever cpu needs

  • Power supply vs. logic board?  turns off in sleep mode.

    My imac g5 (2004 - 1st generation?) is either turning completely off or going into some un-wake-up-able mode after it's put to sleep. (I have to switch off/on the power strip and turn the computer on all over again.) And sometimes if it's sleeping (power light pulsing on front) it may or may not wake from sleep by pushing the power button. Often touching a key in that circumstance will cause it to crash, so I've quit using that altogether as a method of waking it up. I've reset the SMU a number of times throughout the past few months and it has not cleared up this problem.
    Last night after I put it to sleep it switched in to the un-wake-up-able mode. I could still hear something running (not a fan, just an electrical hum) where it seems like it's crashed and can't shut itself off. I had to turn off the power and try to turn the computer back on. It wouldn't respond the first couple times. Then the power light glowed for a while but it still didn't turn on completely. After a few more minutes I tried again. Maybe I held the power button for too long, but I heard a long single beep, the fans whirred, and then everything started up as usual.
    I've read a number of threads seemingly related to these issues, but am now not clear about whether this is a power supply issue or a logic board issue. I have yet to open the back and check for bulging capacitors. Just thought I'd ask here first.

    I am having a very close issue too (posted also in a more recent thread about power button not functioning). My old iMac G5 20 inches got a power supply that went bad two years ago. I had it replaced and all went fine until two weeks ago.
    My wife was using it, while I was away: machine shut down with a 'pop!' sound.
    She tried to start it up again, but after pressing the button a couple of times - the last one longer - she had a long strong peep. The machine went on for a while and then off again. Scared, she left it off.
    After checking, no reported issue seems to fit to the problems shown: power supply is working; logic board too. The machine is working fine, but on sleep, it dies out. While doing tasks, at undetermined times, it shuts down with a 'pop!'. Sometimes you can restart it immediately. Sometimes you can't and have to wait one or more hours. No evidently bad caps on board, led check returns 1 (no 2 flashing or attempting to turn on) with dead computer, otherwise all working fine. Hardware test also passed. Console messages have nothing relevant or clearly understandable to offer.
    Still can't figure out a solution. Many user are pretty fast in suggesting to bringing the machine to Apple. Unfortunately not all around the world we have/need cars. And getting the 20 kg of iMac by feet/metro to the shop it ain't such a nice walk. When I fried the power supply, there was no sufficiently large box on sale to pack the computer and have it send to the shop. I had to wait for the technician - on a convenient day - do drop by and take it (and he knew he was going to repair it)!
    Will post, if I have further developments.

  • Power supply fan dead - help? (400mhz AGP G4)

    Hello!
    Unfortunately, my PowerMac G4, a 400mhz, AGP Sawtooth model, has a dead fan.
    Over the last few weeks, I've noticed that my G4 has been running quite hot. I figured it was due to the hot dorm room that it's being used in. Then, I noticed that when it booted up, it would occasionally make a vibrating, or rattling noise - I figured the fan was wobbling. Since air was comming out of the fan opening at the top, I didn't worry about it.
    Today, I used the "Temperature Monitor" widget to check the temperature of my SMART Hard drive (the G4 itself is not sensed). It was 133 degrees!!! This is the bay on the back-right, just under the CPU fan. I looked at the fan again - not much airflow. I pulled out a flashlight and pointed it in, and the Fan that's inside the power supply unit is dead.
    So, how can I fix it? It's far far too hot, so it's not usable until I can cool it off. The first idea I had was to take a particularly powerful desk fan, and make a paper "tube" that connects both to the G4 and back of the fan - so it'll pull the hot air out. Needless to say, this is not a good log-term plan as it's easy to fall apart and will have leaks, but it works for now. I realize you can buy power supplies, but for ~$100, it's far too much for the old G4.
    Second idea: The fan is inside the "non-user servicable" power supply, but it's also next to the back of the G4 - right inside what appears to be a panel that holds the power supply in. At the very least, I'd like to make sure that the cable is attached and not loose, but I have to open the back. Is that possible or safe? If so, can I replace the fan?
    My third idea was to attach an extra fan to the inside of the G4, on the outside of the power supply - pushing in. Unfortunately, the IDE cable from the DVD drive is in the way, and there's not much room for a fan. Plus, there's no fan power supply. Is it possible to convert an ATA power plug (there are 7!) to a fan-power supply? I'd require a small circuit and a lot of resistors, obviously! If so, what would I need to do to convert it?
    Thanks a bunch,
    -Dan
    15" 1.67 Powerbook G4 (Jan 2005), 400 mhz AGP Sawtooth G4   Mac OS X (10.4.8)   4G Clickwheel and 5G Vid iPods, 2G iPod shuffle

    Thanks!
    Interesting, this "Piggy back power adapter" will allow me to plug the fan into one of the ATA/IDE cables? Or do you mean the extra port on the power supply? (it has one plug for the outlet>G4, then another to support something like a monitor or similar) The G4 has a DVD burner, but no ZIP drive, so this is quite do-able if it uses the ATA power.
    When you say "lower rear", do you mean at the bottom? Below the power supply, to the right of the PCI slots? If so, this is the inflow for the CPU fan! I can understand mounting it outside the current outflow-vent for the dead power supply fan, although I'm not sure the best way to proceed with attaching the fan.
    Another question: what tools and supplies will I need? I may need to remove the plastic cover on the back of the G4 - the one that is outside the power supply - as there's a gap between the gray plastic and metal chassis that lets air from outside the machine come in. The screws for this cover use a funky, hexagonal screwdriver. If I need to take this cover off, what kind of screwdriver will I need? Also, should the fan not include screws/etc, what's the best method to attach it? Glue?
    Secondly, to cut a hole in the G4, will I need some variety of drill? I don't have one, so i'll have to borrow one... Since there's nothing in the ZIP slot, I can run a cable out through here (assuming it's long enough), and make a new bezel to keep the airflow inside intact.
    Ah! One other (somewhat related) question: my USB 2 card includes a power adapter, for use when several un-powered devices (flash drives) are attached. It works just fine with a flash drive and a small media reader, but it's slow to sense the drives - I think it's low on power. Unfortunately, this power plug uses the same variety of plug as the floppy disk drives found on many win-boxes - of which the G4 possesses none. Is there an adapter/cable for this purpose?
    Thanks, this is a HUGE help, I appreciate it.
    -Dan

  • Upgrade video card and power supply or upgrade my pc?

    I have a :
    HP
    Series Pavilion Model M8530F(KT334AA) Type Media Center / HTPC Processor AMD Phenom X4 9550(2.2GHz) Processor Main Features 64 bit Quad-Core Processor Cache Per Processor 4 x 512KB L2 Cache Memory 5GB DDR2 800 Hard Drive 750GB 7200RPM SATA Optical Drive 1 SuperMulti DVD Burner with LightScribe Technology Graphics NVIDIA GeForce 9300GE with Hybrid SLI Technology with 256MB dedicated video memory, DVI and HDMI capabilities, and support for Microsoft DirectX 10. Up to 1919MB Total Available Graphics Memory as allocated by Windows Vista Audio High Definition audio Ethernet Integrated 10/100/1000Mbps network interface Keyboard HP multimedia keyboard Mouse HP optical mouse Operating System Windows Vista Home Premium 64-bit Software Included Photo and Video
    muvee autoProducer Basic: Automatically create professional looking home videos and burn to DVD
    Entertainment
    Cyberlink DVD Suite Deluxe: Automatically fix and edit videos and create CDs and DVDs. Edit, burn and archive data to discs.
    Productivity
    Microsoft Works 9: Includes a word processor, spreadsheet, database and calendar
    Microsoft Office Home and Student Edition 2007 Trial: 60-day trial version
    Adobe Reader 8: Read and print PDF file
    PC Security
    Norton Internet Security 2008: Protect your PC out of the box (60 days of complimentary live updates)
    Online Services
    Easy sign-up to major dial-up and broadband Internet Service Providers:
    - MSN dial-up (offer included)
    - NetZero Dial-Up (offer included)
    - NetZero Accelerated Dial-Up (offer included)
    - Juno Turbo Dial-Up (offer included)
    - High Speed Internet Services Comparison Shopping
    Motherboard Chipset NVIDIA GeForce 8200 Chipset
    CPU CPU Type Phenom X4 Installed Qty 1 CPU Speed 9550(2.2GHz) L2 Cache Per CPU 4 x 512KB CPU Socket Type AM2+ CPU Main Features 64 bit Quad-Core Processor
    Graphics GPU/VPU Type NVIDIA GeForce 9300 GE Graphics Interface PCI Express x16
    Memory Memory Capacity 5GB DDR2 Memory Speed DDR2 800 Form Factor DIMM 240-pin Memory Spec 2GB x 1 & 1GB x 3 Memory Slots (Available/Total) 0/4 Maximum Memory Supported 8GB
    Hard Drive HDD Capacity 750GB HDD Interface SATA HDD RPM 7200rpm
    Optical Drive Optical Drive Type DVD Super Multi Optical Drive Spec SuperMulti DVD Burner with LightScribe Technology
    16x DVD±R, 8x DVD+RW, 6x DVD-RW, 8x DVD+R DL, 4x DVD-R DL, 5x DVD-RAM, 16x DVD-ROM, 40x CDR, 32x CDRW, 40x CD-ROM
    Audio Audio Chipset Integrated
    Communications Modem 56K LAN Chipset Integrated LAN Speed 10/100/1000Mbps
    Front Panel Ports Front USB 2 Front IEEE 1394 1 Front Audio Ports 2 Card Reader Front panel 15-in-1 memory card reader: supports SmartMedia, xD, MultiMedia Card, Secure Digital (SD), Mini Secure Digital, Compact Flash I, Compact Flash II, IBM Microdrive, Memory Stick, Memory Stick Pro, Memory Stick Duo, Memory Stick Pro Duo, RSMMC, MMC Mobile, MMC+
    Back Panel Ports PS/2 2 Video Ports 1 DVI, 1 HDMI Rear USB 4 Rear IEEE 1394 1 RJ45 1 port Rear Audio Ports 6 ports S/P DIF 1 port
    Expansion PCI Slots (Available/Total) (2/3) PCI-E x1 slots
    (0/1) PCI-E x16 slot
    Mouse Mouse Type HP optical mouse
    Keyboard Keyboard Type HP multimedia keyboard
    Physical Spec Dimensions 16.54" x 15.16" x 7.60" Weight 32.00 lbs.
    Manufacturer Warranty Parts 1 year limited Labor 1 year limited
    Sorry for the long copy and paste. I read that I can upgrade the video card and power supply. But atm when I play world of warcraft at ultra settings, I tend to lag really bad in the new instances with the new cat expansion that came out. I wanted to know if I should upgrade the video card and power supply for better performance or just upgrade my whole pc tower.  Fyi, I am running a Acer X243w lcd flat panel monitor if that helps too.

    My brother has a high end laptop with a built in, high end gaming video card (I forget which one). He's able to run the game on full-on Ultra. 
    I have an integrated video card which games the game on.. 'cartoon'.. mode. It's lower then low. When someone shoots a powerful spell at me, I go into a DOS Prompt. (not really, but it's pretty bad).
    Funny thing is, I can still kick my brother's butt in any PVP match he wants to set up. 
    But I guess his graphics are pretty....
    As for which video card works best, I'd have to do some research. After that graphics update they did with CAT,  it's kind of a toss up again.
    I am a Bestbuy employee who volunteers on these boards on my own time. I am not paid for posting here, and you should understand that my opinions are exactly that - opinions. I do not represent Bestbuy in any way.
    : Open Mailbox

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