Nokia 1020: any RAW to JPG converters which preser...

Rawer does an excellent job, with variable quality Jpeg options so you can extract a high quality jpeg, but it discards the EXIF data which is really annoying.
There is a PC based route I found which goes to a TIF and then Jpeg... lengthy.
There are various PC progs which go DNG to Jpeg but the ones that support Microsoft's version of DNG all cost about $50.

Hi Omke,
Thank you for sharing your workflow--very generous and quite interesting.
Yesterday, I barged into an Adobe Forums thread similar to mine and I discovered the reason for the file size difference, it's the 10 setting you get when you select Maximum Quality from the Bridge Save Image dialogue box. Bridge, like PS, actually goes to a 12 quality setting, but you have to type in the 12 manually (a curious requirement) rather than selecting the Max Quality option, which always goes to 10. Once I manually typed in 12, my Bridge-converted (RAW to .jpg) files became precisely the same size as when I convert them using PS.
Here's a link to the thread:
charles badland, "raw to jpeg,jpeg file too small" #36, 30 Sep 2008 1:47 pm
Thanks again for your help and suggestions,
--FTP

Similar Messages

Nokia 1020 - any way to get an internet connection...

There doesn't seem to be any way to get networking via BT.
As a possibly separate issue, I can connect to my Nokia 808 over BT and they pair up OK, but the 1020 doesn't see any network, dial-up or any other service like that in the 808.
Every windows laptop and even a win8.0 Lenovo tablet can connect to the 808 over BT, and all but win8.x devices can also do it over wifi (Joikuspot). Why can't the win8.1 Nokia phone do this?

In that case, what methods *are* available on the 1020 for getting an internet connection, other than using
- built-in GSM/3G/4G, or
- built-in WIFI (infrastructure mode only)
Can one do it via USB?
Why is adhoc WIFI or bluetooth insecure, for a personal temporary internet connection, from another device, used typically while travelling and used to make sure that roaming costs are contained within the one device on which there is a decent roaming data package?
Currently the only way I see is a 3G-WIFI modem (e.g. the E585) with a locally puchased data SIM inside it, but such deals are available only in some countries in Europe. They also tend to be really difficult to purchase e.g. in Greece you spend an hour or two in a phone shop, proving your identity with a passport and other documents.
Was this done because the networks (who own the phone shops) insisted on it, as a condition of carrying the phone in their shops?

Nokia 1020 - any way to print to a PDF?

I can't see any "printer" capability.

In that case, what methods *are* available on the 1020 for getting an internet connection, other than using
- built-in GSM/3G/4G, or
- built-in WIFI (infrastructure mode only)
Can one do it via USB?
Why is adhoc WIFI or bluetooth insecure, for a personal temporary internet connection, from another device, used typically while travelling and used to make sure that roaming costs are contained within the one device on which there is a decent roaming data package?
Currently the only way I see is a 3G-WIFI modem (e.g. the E585) with a locally puchased data SIM inside it, but such deals are available only in some countries in Europe. They also tend to be really difficult to purchase e.g. in Greece you spend an hour or two in a phone shop, proving your identity with a passport and other documents.
Was this done because the networks (who own the phone shops) insisted on it, as a condition of carrying the phone in their shops?

I have updated to LR 5.7 today, apparently now I cannot export any longer from RAW to jpg, receive message : export could not be performed, access to undefined global: newGrainSeed(1). Can anyone help me out to resolve this ?

When updating my LightRoom to version 5.7, exporting from RAW to jpg has become impossible. I receive message : access to undefined global:newGrainSeed(1).
Anyone experienced the same ? How can I solve this ?

new Lightroom 5.4 export jpeg error?

Photo - Nokia 1020: how the best camera phone in t...

Dear Nokia,
I am a huge photo addict and i cannot tell u how excited i was when i first lay my hands on the famous 41Mpx of the nokia 1020. Still - this camera phone became the worst - especially with the nokia black OS update.
With Nokia black update i choose to finally take my high res pix into the .DNG format.
The previous settings (34Mp JPEG) was not satisfactory as clearly the jpeg compression in the phone was not good enough.
Now that i take 41Mpix .DNG files - here are my issues :
- No way to retrieve the original 41Mpx that to plug a USB cable to my PC (come on - we are getting to 2014!)
- No way to watch my brand new raw pictures as .DNG is unsupported by Win8 (i needed to download an Adobe .DNG codec that still does not display thumbnail correctly in Win Explorer - but at least i can open them)
- No way to share my high res pictures : as neither SkyDrive, nor Flickr or any website do accept .DNG files uploaded
- Even when i convert my .dng file to uncompressed .jpeg or .png... well once uploaded to SkyDrive, the thumbnail created by SkyDrive is recompressing the pictures and showing the ugly pixel squares in the skies i wanted to avoid.
- the Low Res 5 Mpix of my pictures - i can share wirelessly anywhere - but they all look worse than any average phone picture (iPhone 4S would do an 8 Mpix of any pictures)
So i have got a hard time to understand your strategy here : why anyone would shift from high res .jpeg (12Mb per pictures) to high res .dng (41 Mb per picture!) on a 32Gb storage phone... if none of this pictures can be watched on a PC or decently shared on the internet ???
At least you could have tried better by adopting a more compatible format like .RAW ?
Unhappy customer (who would have loved to praise the 1020 and ditch his iPhone forever...)
Pierre-Eric

DNG images are supposed to be processed and edited before sharing. The format is owned by Adobe which would be why you need their codec/applications.
I would suggest you teach yourself the basics of photo editing and composition as from your remarks it would seem you expect expert results to happen as if by magic which will not happen. You images will only be as good as your imagination and creativity.
Stay on processed and auto mode if you feel you are not able to properly deal with DNG files as this is not as easy as many seem to think. DNG mode _depends_ on you doing the processing of the images and knowing what you are doing and how to do it.
Click on the blue Star Icon below if my advice has helped you or press the 'Accept As Solution' link if I solved your problem..

Lost metadata in file after attempt to Save RAW As JPG in PS CS3

Someone in other place in this Forum advised me that this will be probably more appropriate place to ask these questions, so I will give it a go. Below is a copy of my post on PS Windows thread (well, two posts really edited into one):
Hi,
I have just found out that after I open RAW pictures from my Canon 5D (but same happens with pictures from Canon 10D) in PS and than try to save them as JPGs, I loose majority of my metadata from the files (after right click on filename in. I can still Windows Explorer and clicking Properties or simply adding additional columns in Win XP Windows Explorer detailed view.
So same picture, without any editing at all, just opened as RAW file (which it is a CR2 or CRW file in Canons), and then saved as JPG, suddenly does not show the date of picture taken, focal length or exposure time are all gone. Does not matter if I try Properties in Win Explorer or say Properties in MS Office Picture Manager.
Was trying to look for any setting in PS that would set the ability to save or abandon saving of this type of information in JPG file but could not find anything of this kind.
What is interesting I went back to my pictures I have saved from RAW to JPG using same PS years ago, and I this was not a problem. Everything was saving OK.
So in summary:
1. This would not be a problem related to camera (it is unlikely that same problem would occur on two different models at the same time - even though both are Canons)
2. It must be a way to force the Photoshop to do that, I f I was able to do it successfully, almost without knowing, before.
Therefore, I would think that either:
1. There is some set of defaults somewhere in PS that I have accidently turned off causing my PS not to save this metadata properly or in full, or
2. That it came as some kind of bug with some of the updates to PS CS3 that I was getting over last year from Adobe.
Has any one else encountered similar problem? If yes, what did you do to resolve this issue?
I will be very grateful for any help, as I am not a frequent user of Adobe Photoshop and may just not be very familiar with the part that regulates that type of issues.
And I do not use the Save for Web option.
I just used (in PS CS3 running on Win XP Professional with SP3) the Save As from File menu.
What is also strange is that if I use File - Open command and get the first window with Open dialog box, where you have some basic options for opening/converting RAW format pictures (this window does not come up when I open JPG files) and I use existing there button to Save (which does not actually allow to do any editing of the picture before such way of saving) all Camera Properties, or that metadata, is actually saved into the newly created JPG quite correctly.
However if I use button Open in that conversion dialog box, and than save already opened RAW file as JPG, the majority of that data is gone (date picture taken, exposure time, aperture, focal length, exposure compensation steps etc).
I can see that RAW file has all this in the sections called EXIF and XMP (under File - File Information) but Save As does not add this info in the JPG files for some reason.

No, not really, because I ma not sure what it is for.
I just used (in PS CS3 running on Win XP Proffessional) the Save As from File menu.
What is also strange is that if I use Open command and get the first window with Open dialog box, where you have some basic options for opening/converting RAW format pictures (this window does not come up when I open JPG files) and I use existing there option to Save (which does not actually allow to do any editing of the picture before such way of saving) the all Camera Properties, or that metadata is actually saved into the newly created JPG.However if i use button Open in that conversion dialog box, and than save as JPG, the majority of that dtata is gone (date picture taken, exposure time, aperture, focal lenght, exposure compensation steps etc).
I can see that RAW file has all this in the sections called EXIF and XMP (under File - File Information) but Save As does not add this info in the JPG files for some reason.

Grey stripes after cropping and resizing any raw file

Dear Members,
this is an important issue which has forced me to suspend my regular workflow in Photoshop for now. I have updated my graphic drivers but nothing has changed so far (I currently have a Nvidia GTX 580, Intel i7 3770k, 32GB of RAM). I'll describe the issue using a sample raw image publicly released for testing purposes for the Nikon D3200 camera. I open the file in Bridge as usual and edit it with Camera Raw (I have version 8.7.1 now, I have the most updated version of PS as well). I'll low down the Exposure, the Blacks and increase the Contrast somewhat just to make the issue more visible. Then I import the file in Photoshop for other adjustments. First, I crop any area with the crop tool, and then resize it through Image -> Image Resize. Notice that the issue shows up only by resizing after cropping. I choose, say, a new width of 1024px, and then press Ok. Then an irregular pattern of both horizontal and verticle straight grey lines shows up:
My current Workflow Options in Camera Raw are set as follows:
Color Space: ProPhoto RGB
Depth: 16 Bits/Channel
Image Sizing, Output Sharpening and Photoshop boxes are unchecked.
This is from Edit->Color Settings in Photoshop:
I didn't try to test the issue by changing every single option in my workflow. I can only say that it just happens with any raw files under the settings I posted. JPGs work fine.
I would appreciate if you will solve what it is a very serious problem for my everyday work.
Best Regards.

Which version of Photoshop are you using? I tried to re-create this issue and could not:
If you are using lens corrections in ACR, turn them off. They are know to cause issues at times.
If still not working, try resetting the crop tool:
Now try resetting the image size tool. Press Alt and the "cancel" will turn into a "reset."
If still not working, try a preference reset: Ctrl+Alt+Shift as you initiate Photoshop's startup. It will ask if you would like to proceed, select "yes."
If still not working, I suggest you both submit a bug report here: https://www.adobe.com/cfusion/mmform/index.cfm?name=wishform&loc=en
Be sure to include as much information as you can.. System, Photoshop version, ACR version etc...
You could also try a re-install before submitting bug report.
Benjamin

Colors of RAW vs JPG in Lightroom and CS3

I am confused by this.
When shooting RAW +JPG on my Canon 350D, the RAW and JPG have different color qualities. The RAW is more yellow, or maybe warmer. The JPG more blue or cooler.
I think this is odd. And it is consistent in Lightroom AND CS3 and yet in Irfanview and Canon Digital Photo Professional they they are identical. Totally.
Why would this be? And which is "right" in Lightroom? The RAW? It looks the better of the two, but hard to compare across programs. But why the difference and why not in all programs, just ADOBE?
Thanks.
~Bob

DPP uses the in camera settings as its starting point to view RAW files, so these files will appear identical to any jpegs produced at the same time. The in camera settings are attached to the RAW file and DPP reads this information when opening or loading a RAW file for the first time.
Lightroom does not have access to this information and so it has its own starting point that it uses when you open a RAW file, thus the RAW file will look different than the JPEG and different to the RAW file opened in DPP (while the JPEG and RAW file in DPP will look the same). Most other RAW programs do not have access to this information (Capture 1, Bibble etc) and they also will have a starting point that is different to DPP. One of the significant advantages of Lightroom over DPP is that you can create your own profiles so you can tailor your "starting point" to suit your preferences and style whereas with DPP you always start where the Canon guy says you should be.
There are a few programs that use the Canon SDK or Canon RAW viewer utility in windows to display images (Breeze Browser comes to mind). Irfranview may be one of these which is why RAW files viewed here may look te same as DPP or the JPEG.
As to which is right. Neither, none or all of them. Right or wrong is purely subjective and based on which you prefer. If you never make any changes to the RAW file you may as well just shoot jpegs and that will be right for you. But then you loose thae ability to influence the look of your files proior to the file creation which is why we shoot RAW in the first place.
Hope this helps
Gordon

RAW vs JPG quality question

Just got Lightroom and am now for the first time taking images in RAW format. I am using a Canon SLR as well as a Panasonic P&S both shooting in JPG and RAW. The Canon RAW images have an extension of .CR2 and the Panasonic has an extension of .RW2..
Okay with that out of the way, I'm going through my images and notice that the RAW images don't look nearly as nice as the JPG images. As I understand it, RAW has all of the information from the picture taken and gives more flexibility with adjustments. But how is it that the two images side by side look so different? I like the look of the JPG images most of the time.. They have better color quality and the lighting seems to be more accurate to what was shot. Some even seem to have a higher level of sharpness where the RAW images almost look like they could be slightly out of focus. I've tried to get the RAW and JPG images to look the same to see if there is a specific difference (see if contrast is always x lower or x higher etc... ) but can't seem to get a RAW image to look like what was actually shot.
Any input on working with RAW images or experience that would help me out here?
Much appreciated!
Nathan

The main “quality” thing you’ll probably see different your camera’s raw conversion (to JPGs) and Adobe’s is that there is no default luminance noise-reduction so there will be grain you can see and that the sharpening is more subtle.
You can adjust both the noise-reduction and sharpening to taste, just don’t overdo it. When I look at a camera JPG I typically see too much noise reduction which has removed too much fine detail, and sharpening halos along edges, both of which I dislike, now that I’ve worked with raws for so long.
Here is the first part of a three-part tutorial about the three types of sharpening, capture, creative, output, that you can do to raw files in Lightroom. The links to the other two parts are at the bottom of part one:
http://laurashoe.com/2011/08/21/sharpening-in-lightroom-part-one-overview-and-capture-shar pening/
You should also be doing your capture and creative sharpening with the zoom set to 100% or 1:1. The resampling algorithim used to show smaller-than-100%-zoom views in Lightroom Develop will give inaccurate sharpening preview results, so what you think you’re doing will be different than what is actually visible in the output you produce with LR, unless you use 1:1.

RAW to JPG file conversions too small?

Hello,
I recently upgraded to CS3 from CS so I'm now using Bridge/ACR to convert my RAW files to .JPGs. What is puzzling me is, if I open one or more RAW files in Bridge, make some adjustments (usually WB, exposure, etc.), then use the Save Image option within Bridge to save the image(s) as .JPGs, I am getting very small file sizes (I'm using the Max Quality setting in Bridge, which is 10). For example, a RAW file goes from 6.5MB to 1.2MB. However, if I open the RAW file in Photoshop instead of Bridge/ACR, make adjustments, then save as a maximum quality .jpg, the file goes from 6.5MB to 4.5MB. My concern is that when using the batch/save option within Bridge I'm losing quality somewhere?
Any ideas?
Thanks,
FTP

Hi Omke,
Thank you for sharing your workflow--very generous and quite interesting.
Yesterday, I barged into an Adobe Forums thread similar to mine and I discovered the reason for the file size difference, it's the 10 setting you get when you select Maximum Quality from the Bridge Save Image dialogue box. Bridge, like PS, actually goes to a 12 quality setting, but you have to type in the 12 manually (a curious requirement) rather than selecting the Max Quality option, which always goes to 10. Once I manually typed in 12, my Bridge-converted (RAW to .jpg) files became precisely the same size as when I convert them using PS.
Here's a link to the thread:
charles badland, "raw to jpeg,jpeg file too small" #36, 30 Sep 2008 1:47 pm
Thanks again for your help and suggestions,
--FTP

Nokia 1020 for aerial photography and problems

Hello friends
I need help.
I am planning to use Nokia 1020 for aerial photography purpose but thinking of possible problems which will come on my way.
1. How can I get the live feed from my Nokia 1020 on to the screen on ground ?
We have setup for getting the av out from other cameras but before buying lumia I want to make sure that it also works the same way.
Any clue ?

Hi, I'm sorry to hear about your problems.
It' could be that your device suffers from some kind of hardware failure which just happened to occure after updating your phone. If it seems to be related to you moving the device, putting it down and then it reboots - it could be loose contacts. In that case you will have to get it replaced or repaired. If it's within warranty - you could either return it to the place you bought it from to make them handle the warranty case through Nokia - or visit a Nokia care point straight away.
What I would do if it does not seem clear it's a hardware failure, is to back up everything I need, and then reinstall the current firmware with Nokia software recovery tool.
Then I would try using it for some time without reinstalling 3rd party apps to see if it still occurs. If it just happens after installing some 3rd party app - it's likely triggering something or it's badly written and causing the issue.
If it however can't be blamed upon any 3rd party service. You will need to have it repaired.

Nokia 1020 Auto MMS

I have a Nokia 1020 on 3 (three.co.uk).
If I use characters that have accents e.g. ô or â (when I use them for typing in Welsh) the SMS changes to MMS automatically, and a long SMS may change into 2 MMS messages which I have to pay for under my contract
(I've onlyu just noticed and not sure how much this is costing me!)
I've uploaded a screenshot showing the character count at the bottom of the text message.
Solved!
Go to Solution.
Attachments:
wp_ss_20131203_0002 (2).jpg ‏81 KB

Not a real solution but you could always change to reduced SMS character set in Settings > network+:
print screen windows
Happy to have helped forum in a small way with a Support Ratio = 37.0

Nokia 1020 - make Bluetooth discoverable?

Hello, i have a Nokia 1020 and have just bought a 2014 Mustang and want to pair my phone to the Sync system in the car. The instructions in the car's manual say to turn on the phone's bluetooth and make it discoverable. I have turned it on but see no option to make it discoverable. The system in the car scans for it and after a minute or so says 'no phone'. According to Ford and Microsoft, the 1020is compatible with the Sync system, but it has to be made discoverable.
Don't know if this matters, but the phone has upgraded to Windows 8.1.
Any ideas?
Solved!
Go to Solution.

peterh338 wrote:
The phone is invisible and thus cannot be paired with anything - until you go into that menu on the phone which unhides BT.
I have problems to follow that argument: You have to go for that Bluetooth menu, because Bluetooth is not turned on when you unpack your phone. However, I am not sure about that short-cut in the notification bar – I would expect it to open the Bluetooth menu with first use. I have to double-check, there could be a usability issue.
peterh338 wrote:
a device would not work properly with hidden devices
Not aware of anything like that.
If you have concrete examples, please, report to Amazon, Apple, Microsoft, and here.
peterh338 wrote:
the user *chooses* when it is visible, does what is needed, and then hides it.
The question remains why, because I am not aware of any case which requires this. I was surprised as you, that there is no Bluetooth visibility switch. However, then I recalled my experience: I never ever wanted to change Bluetooth visibility except because I had to. Or stated differently: If is works automatically, as it does right now, I do not loose any functionality – I even gain functionality because I do not have to hurry (time-based Bluetooth visibility) or I do not have to remember about it at all (all-time visibility). That was a great learning experience for me actually: Because everyone does it and because it is done for years, even since day one, something might not be the best software usability.

Bridge cs4 can not open raw and jpg directly by itself

i never did it! i want to open raw and jpg files by camera raw directly with open photoshop. i have made the choose to open by double click in the preference but still can not do.
my brother's computer can open both of them and we are similar xp system.
and i have checked and reinstalled many times and still failed.

A bit of magic (if I'd remember):
1. open PS, from here File > Browse in Bridge
2. open any RAW/DNG - it goes to PS
3. switch to Bridge window (PS still open)
4. R-click, select "open in Camera RAW"
5. Close all
Now opening in Bridge should work :)
Chris

Can't find any raw files to convert when I am using Adobe DNG converter

Recently I purchased a new Olympus XZ-1 camera. I shoot exclusively RAW pictures (raw files for this camera are called .orf). Then when I tried to import these .orf files in the organizer of Phtoshop Element 8 it was imposible, nor then I could see those pictures in the organizer. By surfing on diffrent forums, I was able to figure out that Camera Raw included in Element 8, Camera Raw 5.5, is not supporting the .orf raw from Olympus and if I didn’t want to upgrade my Element 8 to Element 9 or 10, a simple alternative was to download Adobe DNG converter to convert all my .orf files into dng files, which could then imported by Element 8 and opened in Camera raw 5.5.
I downloaded DNG converter version 6.6 and installed it in on my computer running on Windows 7. The problem is that once inside DNG converter, when selecting the folder where all my .orf files are (Select folder), I can't see any raw files to convert there! I tried to select a folder with NEF files instead (raw files from Nikon) and it is the same problem! Why can’t I see those files of mine I want to convert when I select the folder in DNG converter?
I'm dying for help!
Thanks a lot!

When you are selecting the folder in the DNG converter, you only click on the folder. You DON'T double click on the folder. After you have set your options, and chosen the folder, you click on the Convert button. It is only after you have clicked on Convert that you will see the list of files that are being converted. You will also be able to see an indicator of the progress of the conversion. It really does work. Just to verify, the procedure I outlined is one that I did just prior to trying to write the instructions. It really isn't rocket science. Just choose the folder, only the folder, and click on the Convert button.
You'll notice that the button prompts you to select the folder, it doesn't say anything about selecting a file. You only select the folder that contains the files. You will never see a list of files using this method. If you only want to convert one or two images you can use the other method. Leave the DNG converter closed, open the folder containing the DNG files in your operating system folder browsing utility, choose the file you want to convert, and drag it onto the icon for the DNG converter. That is how you choose individual images.

Nokia 1020: any RAW to JPG converters which preser...

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