Officejet J6480. Lcd display is not readable. Looks like fading or ?? Fix?

see above

I think for this hardware issue you will need to Contact HP.
Bob Headrick, HP Expert
I am not an employee of HP, I am a volunteer posting here on my own time.
If your problem is solved please click the "Accept as Solution" button ------------V
If my answer was helpful please click the "Thumbs Up" to say "Thank You"--V

Similar Messages

I have miny iPad that I restored ,i can not do any thing with it just because iam not the original owner, went to apple trying to do something , they could not help,look like apple is trying hard to make me trash my all devises.thanks apple

I have miny iPad that I restored ,i can not do any thing with it just because iam not the original owner, went to apple trying to do something , they could not help,look like apple is trying hard to make me trash my all devises.thanks apple

Sounds like you bought the iPad secondhand and the previous owner did not remove it from his/her iCloud account.
If you are unable to contact the original owner, the iPad is (unfortunately) useless to you.
~Lyssa

IMac to lcd tv image not clear. How do I fix that?

I have a mini dvi to s-video/component adapter to send signal to a 22" lcd tv in another room. the tv is capable of the same resolution (1680x1050) as the imac display. for some reason the image is not as sharp and clear on the tv as it is on the imac, regardless if I use the component out or s-video out. I've adjusted settings in the display as well. how do I get the image on the lcd tv to look as clear as it does on the computer? Will the mini dvi to dvi and dvi to hdmi adapters change everything? thanks

Your TV maybe capable of the same resolution as your mac, however, the s-video/component is your bottle neck. Despite the fact that your TV matches your monitor resolution, s-video/component is only capable of producing a standard definition image (480i @ 640x480). Your TV is stretching the image to match its resolution which is why it's coming out so blurry.
If your TV has any extra HDMI inputs (or one of the rare that have a standard DVI port), you might want to look into getting a mini-DVI to DVI adapter if your TV has a DVI port. If it does not have a DVI port, then you'll need to get a mini-DVI to DVI adapter as well as a DVI to HDMI adapter. Using these methods should match your resolution and everything will look like they should.
Hope it helps =]

Display has low luminosity - looks like as burn backlight

Hello at all,
I have many days this problem with my laptop, I try to fix it but I can't.
Please guys help me to solve this problem with my laptop.
First of all, the problem is when I start my laptop, the laptop start and boot normally but the screen has low luminosity.
I think that looks like a clasical problem withn invert.
I change the invert in my laptop but the problem remains...
The next step which I try is the display, I change and the display from my laptop and I try it with new (and old invert) again the problem remains.
The third step which I try to do is to change the motherboard.
I change the motherboard and I try again but now with my old display because I send back the new display which I had bought from ebay. (new motherboard,new invert,old display--- the problem remains).
After all that tries, I try to change and the cable from the display but again I have the same problem.
My laptop begin normally, boot normally but the display has low luminosity.
In this point, I want to tell you that when I connect my laptop with external screen HDMI Monitor, it works great!
Do you something to suggest guys?
Please help me.
Thank you very much for your time...

Hello @Gratsa ,
To get your issue more exposure I would suggest posting it in the commercial forums since this is a commercial product. You can do this at Commercial Forums.
Even though this is a Commercial product, here is a link to resolving issues and check the display settings in the Notebook settings. This shows you how to calibrate your screen.
You can do a system restore. System restore will help if something automatically updated and did not go well on the Notebook.
Thanks.
Please click “Accept as Solution ” if you feel my post solved your issue, it will help others find the solution.
Click the “Kudos, Thumbs Up" on the bottom to say “Thanks” for helping!

What approach/tools for a collages scene (to blend it all in so as not to look like a collage)

What photoshop approach/techniques/tools should I be looking into (e.g. watching tutorials) in order to create a collage scene?
That is, a scene where I superimpose various pieces of images to create it. Might be a general background (say a road), then superimposed trees from another image on the left, and a building on the right etc. So the tips/tools re how to blend them in so as to not make it look like it is a collage (well as a much as possible anyway)...

Matt Kloskowski's Compositing Secrets would be an ideal nbook for you. I beleive it was Amazon's Photoshop book of the month, or some such accolade, a while back.
\http://kelbytraining.com/product/photoshop-compositing-secrets/
Otherwise, the steps involved are Selection, Layers, and Masking. Google up Photoshop Compositing tutorials
Or a couple of general Photoshop tutorial sites wit hundreds of free videos:
http://kelbytv.com/photoshopusertv/
http://planetphotoshop.com/category/tutorials
Also look at the Steve Caplin books, or the forum on his How to Cheat at Photoshop site.
http://www.howtocheatinphotoshop.com/
And finally try to learn about perspective, eyelines and horizons. There are two free to view videos here:
http://www.video2brain.com/en/courses/creating-perspective-in-photoshop
And the final finally, learn about shadows and light direction. I'd say two of the most important aspects of a believable composite are shadows and perspective.

Themes invisible, blank pages, colours not right, looks like a graphic error, but isn't one

hey there
Keynote '08 (used on a 10.6.8 Mac OS X) doesn't work anymore. The only thing that works and looks as it should is the window itself with all the buttons and stuff.
I choose a theme and want to start working and all I can see is a blank page...no background,no letters etc.
I cannot see what I'm writing (cause everything's in white), only when I mark the letters I can see them. When I start the presentation I can either see nothing at all or a very ugly version of the theme and words, that looks as if the graphic card of my Mac had crashed. I cannot even choose different font colours...everything's just white.
Some of the themes appear....but a theme that's supposed to be in blue appears green....and so on. It's so strange!
Already finished keynotes can be opened with the app, but look the same. Everything looks like a graphic error so to speak. Pictures look as if they were a negative of the original picture.
The only way to look at an existing keynote is by using "preview" in the finder.
I've already deinstalled the software and put it on again.
Nothing changed...
I just don't know what's going on here....
Any ideas?? :-(

I have the same issue. Can somebody help, please.

How do I get my Mac Mail signature to be single spaced close together and not what looks like a double space?

I am using Mac Mail on Mac Air with 10.10. I have a multi line signature but it looks double spaced and I can't get it to look like a single spaced signature. I tried different fonts and sizes.
Appreciate your assistance.
Fran

I Finally resolved my problem after much research. On my I pad 4 with retina in the field under settings there is a list to choose from-- ex. Aol,Google, yahoo, etc. I chose other and entered att. Used pw and bingo! Problem resolved. It is somewhat configured a little different; but at least I can get all of my 500 e mails.
apple takes IMAP but this is under pop And at least my persistence paid off. You would think something so simple would be informative to us in a better way.

Ipad is not starting looks like dead

My ipad doesn't start at all.

try holding down the power button on the top right and the home button on the face of the ipad at the same time for about 10-15 seconds, see if the apple comes back on the screen. Try it while its plugged in charging.

17" LCD Cinema Display does not work on G4 Tower with ATI 9000

Hi,
I have a G4 Tower with the original AGP ATI Radeon 9000B video card. My friend gave me this unit just recently but not the original monitor. Well after he got his new 30" Cinema Display he gave me the original 17"LCD Cinema Display. I was so happy, plugged it into the card and fired up the CPU but nothing! just blank! It is not getting any power for the USB ports or anything. My buddy says the monitor was checked before I picked it up. I yanked the Video card out and put it back in, inside the CPU was clean as was the card, put it back together and still nothing. The VGA monitor I have is connected via adapter to the other input and works fine. I tried doing display settings and the Cinema is not even detected. Is the Video card fried on the digital side?
Do I need a new one?
Here is the info on the CPU:
Machine Model: Power Mac G4 (AGP graphics)
CPU Type: PowerPC G4 (2.9)
Number Of CPUs: 1
CPU Speed: 400 MHz
L2 Cache (per CPU): 1 MB
Memory: 1.5 GB
Bus Speed: 100 MHz
Boot ROM Version: 4.2.8f1
Serial Number: XB0120xxxxx
Any help wold be appreciated.

Hi MFG,
Welcome to the discussions.
The G4 AGP Graphics model originally shipped with an ATY Rage 128 graphics card. The ATI Radeon 9000 graphics card that is installed in your G4 is not the original card.
The ATI Radeon 9000 comes with a native ADC port (which you are trying to use). This port is only fully functional if the computer is ADC enabled. Your model of G4 is, unfortunately, not ADC enabled.
You can confirm this by opening the computer and having a look at the AGP slot (where the graphics card is installed). In ADC enabled Macs, there is an extra slot at one end of the AGP slot to accomodate an "extra leg" that the ADC graphics cards (such as the ATI 9000) have. This extra leg supplies the power and USB feed. You'll probably find this extra leg with no slot for it to go into.
What this means is that you are not getting power and USB feed through the ADC port to your display.
If you want to get the 17" ADC Apple LCD display working off this card (it's definitely the LCD display and not the CRT display, please confirm), you will need to use a DVI to ADC adaptor such as this one:
http://www.drbott.com/prod/db.lasso?code=0111-DVAD
and run it off the DVI output.
You can run your VGA screen at the same time (if you want to) off the ADC output by using this adaptor:
http://www.drbott.com/prod/db.lasso?code=0117-ADCV
This will work off the ADC port because, although the ADC port is not getting USB or power feed, it's still getting the DVI feed (which is what this adaptor needs).
Cheers!
Karl

Officejet 6500 709e LCD display doesn't display all pixels

A week ago my wired printer stopped displaying all the pixels on the LCD display. I can't, at this point, understand anyhting on the first or second lines. So I don't know how much ink I have in each cartridge (which usually shows on the second line), because random pixels show up, not all of them, for each cartridge.
Important to note: The LCD display does not add extra pixels to the display. It just leaves out pixels where there should be pixels. So if it's intstalling a new in cartridge, I can't understand anything showing on the first line of the display because only a few pixels display as it's configuring the new cartridge.
Is there a way to fix this?
My printer, by the way, says it's "not connected to the computer" when I press the wrench button and then a help choice on the printer, but I have no problem printing from my laptop (HP Pavilion dv5-2074dx).
Is there a way to fix my LCD display? I've had the printer less than a year...

Hello Jane0218,
To be honest, I don't think that there would be much to do in this case. I think your best bet is to contact the HP support for your country and see if they can help you. If you bought the printer less than a year ago it is still within warranty so that shouldn't be a problem.
Here you can find the support numbers for the US:
http://welcome.hp.com/country/us/en/contact/phone_assist.html#section1

Radeon 7000 with a 22" Widescreen LCD Display?

My Dad's 17" CRT monitor on his B&W G3 tower gave up its life, and I'm looking to replace it with a widescreen 22" LCD display (1680*1050 native resolution). The tower's stock ATI Rage 128 (16MB) card is most likely not able to handle this resolution (in addition, it lacks a DVI port, providing only analog output which I find looks rather crummy on an LCD display), so I'd also like to upgrade to a Radeon 7000 with a DVI port. There are a number of these cards floating around on eBay in 32MB and 64MB varieties. I also spotted the Radeon 9200 (PCI variety), which is more costly and probably beyond the needs of my Dad's web-browsing, mail, and iPhoto needs.
Has anyone successfully run a 22" widescreen display at native resolution via a DVI port, using a Radeon 7000? If so, does the 32MB variety suffice, or would I have to look at a 64MB variety? The Radeon 7000 specs page <http://ati.amd.com/products/radeon7000/radeon7000me/specs.html> does not list 1680*1050 resolution (nor any widescreen resolution for that matter), but neither does the specs page for the much more modern Radeon 9200 <http://ati.amd.com/products/radeon9200/radeon9200me/specs.html>, so I figure that the specs pages don't tell the whole story. Thanks for any insights!

Yesterday I picked up a Samsung 216BW 21.6" display with 1680*1050 resolution. Although I'm still awaiting arrival of the Radeon 9200 (64MB) card, I thought I'd try to hook up the monitor to the stock Rage 128 (16MB) card to see what happens. I powered up the B&W G3, and was pleasantly surprised to see the Apple logo appear followed by the startup screen. I logged into my account, and found that the Rage 128 was actually displaying in widescreen mode, albeit at some non-native resolution. Naturally, the next step was to pull down the displays menu and check the other resolution options. The menu read as follows:
SyncMaster
1280 x 1024, 60 Hz, Millions
1680 x 1050, 60 Hz, Millions
1680 x 1050, 60 Hz, Millions
I chose the last item (can't say why this item was listed twice), held my breath, and an instant later was blown away to find the old Rage driving the display at native resolution with a very decent looking image (even though this is over the analogue RGB cable). So I can confirm that the Rage 128 does support a 21.6" widescreen display at native resolution (and I would presume the same applies for 20" and 22" widescreen displays, since they all share the same resolution). I'll also mention that the B&W G3 tower is running Mac OS X 10.4.9.
In any case, I still don't regret having ordered the Radeon, as the Rage 128 does not properly support fullscreen slideshow mode and transitions in iPhoto 5, and my Dad spends a lot of his time dabbling with iPhoto slideshows.

DVI to ADC adapter STudio display will not power on when used with Mac mini

I have a Mac mini and I just purchased a used apple 17" CRT studio display. I bought the DVI to ADC Adapter as recommended by my Apple store. When I hook everything up (I have checked and redone this two times) The power light will come on for about a second when presses. When the mini powers up there is a blank dark screen. I would appreciate any ideas on this. thanks!
Mac mini Mac OS X (10.4.1)

Hi
unfortunately I think the Apple store have sold you the wrong item.
I'm almost certain the DVI to ADC adapter only works with ADC based flat panel displays. DVI ports can output digital or analogue signals (or a combination of the two). The adapter seems to provide digital, which is why it works with the LCD displays, but not analogue, which is why it doesn't work with the CRT displays.
Confusingly Apple did a 17" Studio display both as a CRT and LCD.
Dr. Bott do a similar adapter but they explicitly state it's not compatible with the 17" CRT.
Unfortunately I'm not sure there's a solution, as the display has an ADC connector yet I'm not aware of any adapters available that will work.

Mega865 - No LCD Display

I' have the problem describe in the "Important Threads - Things to know before (and after) building a Mega 865".
When I receive my Mega865, i tried it without processor and it seams works well. So I assemble it to work in PC mode and all is OK too.
Because I had the sound problem (no device found), I read the "Important Threads" and so I realise that my LCD display was not working too (i only use PC mode at this time).
I don't know if the two problems are in connection.
The sound problem disapear but I have still no Front Lcd Display.
I flashed the bios with the new version (1.3) and verified all the connectors that i could see.
What can I do more ? Is my MoBO dead ?
Thanks for your answer.
Vincent

i think it might have something to do with the proximity sensor and that sensor disables the phone functions when in call mode so that you do not accidentally press any other buttons.i think that it disables the touch screen when you put it close to your face. once you hand up the phone, it returns to normal operations right?
Message Edited by radical24 on 02-Feb-2009 10:35 PM
You know what I love about you the most, the fact that you are not me ! In love with technology and all that it can offer. Join me in discovery....

About monitors and LCD displays

I want give you some directrices about the display sub system.
Like you all know there are CRT monitors and LCD displays.
CRT
CRT monitors are based upon electron beams hitting Electroluminescent phosphorus. In these monitors the most important parameters are:
1) Dot pitch
2) Refresh rate
Dot pitch is the size of a single phosphorus point, smaller is better. Typical values range between 0.24 and 0.25. Beware with monitors having a not constant dot pitch, there are monitors with dot pitch of 0.24 at center of screen and 0.25 at the borders. I recommend monitors with constant dot pitch size across all screen.
Refresh rate is the number of times a single electron beam travels across the screen drawing a single frame (from left to right and top to bottom) each second. It is measured in Herz (Hz). Bigger is better. Typical values range between 60 Hz and 120 Hz and the value depends upon resolution, more resolution goes to less possible refresh rate. If you are going to play games with shutter glasses, make sure your monitor is capable of 120 Hz minimun at the playing resolution. In 3D Stereo, each full 3D frame must be drawn 60 times/second (60 Hz) but a 3D frame is a single right eye frame and a single left eye frame, 60 Hz for left frame and 60 Hz for right frame are the full 120 Hz. If you CRT is not capable of these 120 Hz your eyes will suffer fatigue / strain and you would have a great headache after prolonged time periods.
LCD
A LCD display do not uses a electron beam to excite phosphorus and generate colored points, instead this it uses a grille and a special lamp. Instead drawing a frame line at line from top to bottom and left to right, it renders the frame in a step only and continuously, these displays are flat for this, there is no necesity for high voltage and magnetic fileds to move the electron beam. In these displays these are the more important parameters:
1) Dot pitch
2) Response time
3) Number of colors (color space)
Dot pitch is the same as with CRTs
Reponse time is the time it gets going from pure white to pure black. Less is better. It is measured in miliseconds. Good typical values range about 16 ms. If you are going to use the LCD to play games, response time is the more important parameter at all.
Number of colors are the simultaneus colors in screen. It have a inverse relationship with response time. It is measured in million of colors or bits. 24 bits of color depth are 16.7 million of colors. Typical values range agout 16 / 16.7 millions. Greater is better. LCDs with 16 ms response time have, usually, 16.5 millions of colors.
Somethimes, the manufacturer will provide you drivers (setup or inf files) for your operating system. I recomend install this drivers. Don't panic if there are no drivers for your display device, Windows, probably, will find the suitable driver for your brand and model.
If you have a CRT and you are stuck at 60~85 Hz you will need the right driver because Windows would not have found a suitable driver from its drivers base and it chose a standard monitor driver.
If you have a LCD and you are stuck at 60 Hz, all is fine, as i have told you yet, LCD displays paint the screen continuously, you will not appreciate any flicker at 60 Hz in these devices. You can check this if you have a digital camera, make a photo of a CRT with a shutter of <monitor refresh rate> * 1.5. You will see a partially drawn picture. If you take a photo of a LCD with the same shutter rules you will get a full picture. With LCD you will get full pictures always, independently of the shutter.
I hope al this info will be helpful to you.

I have found a very interesting link on the Anandtech Web site about LCDs, it is a old one but i think it will be useful.
The link is this

Mega 180 Fanspeed og LCD Display

Hi - I have everything up and running and before using live update, my lcd display show sys info.
After update everthing with live update, new bios and new PCAlert - my LCD display can not show sys info?
Fanspeed is not showing under bios setup and it is not showing in PCAlert.
Can anyone help please
MSI Mega 180 Deluxe
AthlonXP 2800+
512mb ram
Maxtor Diamond Max Plus 9 160 GB, 7200 rpm, 8 MB
Adaptec SATA RAID 1210SA
Windows XP prof. sp1 & all patches
bios 3.30
PC-Alert 4.0.6.0.1

Re: S3 state.
S0 ~ S5 are the various sleep states on a computer. This ranges from no sleep [fullly on=0] to full sleep [ System off=5]. This is based on the Intel/Microsoft whitepaper describing the various states of ACPI. S=3 is supposed to be equivialant to "Suspend to Ram". So after suspend resume, max fan, until controlled by PC Alert in XP. Hope thats clear?

Officejet J6480. Lcd display is not readable. Looks like fading or ?? Fix?

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