OK, what is the best way to lower specific frequencies in edit view

Listen guys, yes I do happen to know about "frequencies" and that you can't fully remove an instrument without effecting another in that same file that plays at the same time, this is pretty basic stuff.
However, partially removing frequencies is one of the main things AA3 is intended for: "editing" the sound is it's main function.
There must be some better answers out there about the best way of going about this in AA3.
Do people use the spectral analysis with the different colors representing different frequencies? I have no idea how to use this.
Do most people not get into this type of stuff? I don't get it, seems like this is what the program was designed for (partially) so there must be more techniques out there.

As mentioned, using the Graphic EQ or Parametric EQs, are the most common tools to adjust the energy around specific frequencies.
The Graphic EQ provides between 10-30 bands and uses fixed values and widths. (A slider for 1000 Hz will adjust the sound around 1000 Hz +/- a few hundred Hz in both directions.)
The Parametric EQ offers fewer bands, but allows for greater control over the frequencies being adjusted and the affect on surrounding frequencies.
The Notch Filter allows very tight, specific adjustments and is best used for removing artifacts like a 50/60Hz hum or high-pitched buzz.
Spectral Frequency View makes it easy to see the frequency patterns and find precise frequencies of problem audio. The editing tools allow you to perform many of the same functions mentioned, but visually in a paint-style application. The frequency range of the file is displayed vertically, with 1Hz at the bottom and 22KHz (for a 44.1K file) at the top. Each column represents a particular slice of time and displays the energy level of each frequency band via brightness and color. The brighter a particular blob is, the louder that frequency range is at that particular point in time.
There are other spectral views that give different viewpoints of your audio. For example, the Spectral Pan Display shows a sort of birds-eye view of the audio's stereo-field. Instruments that are panned further to the left, for example, will display brighter blobs on the left. Using the selection tools, you can isolate these sounds from the rest of the stereo field and remove, copy, or add effects to the selection without affecting the rest of the audio.

Similar Messages

What is the best way to handle specific requirements for loading?

Hello Experts,
There are many many loadings to be done for companies and time combinations. For this, I logically think of process chains.
However, there are many time conditions to start the loadings pertaining to company calendar.
Ideally, I would like to use process chains without too much heavy coding (as in using Abap as process of a chain). Light Abap routines is fine. But would this be possible? Or should I say, is process chain (wthout coding) possible to address different unique time conditions to trigger infopackages (even though more chains will be created)?
Hope I could receive your good advice.
eg. of unique time conditions: run on every sunday after 15th of every month. Or runs every 3am and 10am before the 15th.
Thanks,
Ernesta Corvino

Ernesta
Since you have too many too many loads depending on Time Combinations as you rightly said rather than using ABAP coading What I suggest you is create different Process chains with different time combinations and club them in a Meta Process Chain or you could run independently depends on the Time.
Hope I understood your question correctly.
Thnaks
sat

What is the best way to start SAPGUI in a specific transaction

Hello,
What I'm trying to do is to run a Java program that will start SAPGUI (in windows format, not HTML) and present the user with a specific transaction with some data already inserted.
I already managed to start the SAPGUI and I know how to fill in data using the SapJCo but my question is: what is the best way to navigate to a specific transaction? I can activate an RFC of BAPI_CALL_TRANSACTION but it seems like a big overhead. so, can any of you tell me what is the best way activate a specific transaction in SAPGUI using JCo?
Thanks,
Uri Lifshitz.

Uri
JCO are mostly used to executed a RFM on the Destination.
I don't think we could call a Transaction using JCO.
Thanks
Jack
<b>Allot points if my post helps !!!</b>

The best way to make proxy files for editing?

Hi,
What is the best way to create proxy files for editing? I'm thinking Apple ProRes 422 (Proxy). The original material is DVCPRO HD 1080i50, shot on Panasonic P2 cards, and copied on to hard drives. But as there is about 400 hours of it, I desperately need to find a clever way to make smaller proxy files for editing.
I would also like to make the proxies at a smaller resolution than 1080i for the editing process.
I guess it's possible to import the media and then batch export it to the proxy format, but Is there a better way?

I'm not able to ingest the material directly from the P2-folders as ProRes 422 (Proxy). No matter how much I change the import settings in "Log and transfer", it still ingests as DVCPRO HD 1080i50.
Correct. DVCPRO HD P2 can only come in as DVCPRO HD. You can't transcode it. AVCIntra P2 is what you can bring in as ProRes. (Sorry Tom).
I can of course transcode it form there to the proxy format and delete the ingested files,
Why? Why do that? You have ingested all the files, right? You ALREADY HAVE THEM...right? Why not work with them? You obviously have the room (20TB). Why import all this, then now take the days it would require to make proxies?
Making the ProRes-proxies directly from the P2-material seems more logical, or isn't it?
DVCPRO HD P2 cannot come in as anything else, so the offline/online workflow for them doesn't work unless you import it all, then transcode to a smaller format...but then need to keep the originals online to relink to when you are done. If you wanted to do an offline/online, you needed to research this better...or test it...before you shot your hundreds of hours only to find that what you want to do won't work.
Shane

My Mum( a pensioner) is wanting to purchase both an iPhone and iPad. What is the best way for her to manage her data /calls/txt etc. obviously the cost needs to be as low as possible. Currently does not have WiFi but uses dongle

My Mum( a pensioner) is wanting to purchase both an iPhone and iPad. What is the best way for her to manage her data /calls/txt etc. obviously the cost needs to be as low as possible. Currently does not have WiFi but uses dongle

My Mum( a pensioner) is wanting to purchase both an iPhone and iPad. What is the best way for her to manage her data /calls/txt etc. obviously the cost needs to be as low as possible. Currently does not have WiFi but uses dongle

What is the best way to connect a MacBook Pro to my HiFi system ?

Hi,
I'm new to Apple support communities having just bought my first Macbook Pro (a 17" 2.5GHz i7 model) and this is my very first community post.
Im a bit of a Hi-Fi enthusiast, so, with my new MacBook Pro I've taken the opportunity of completely reloading my iTunes library in high quality Apple Lossless format. Took a while but now I've completed the task Im pleased I've done it.
My question is, what is the best way to connect a Macbook Pro to a high quality Hi-Fi preamp - my Hi-fi system is musical Fidelity, and the pre amp (an A5 CR Pre amp) and this pre amp, which has superb audio quality, only has analogue phono inputs ?
I'm interested to understand what both the wired and wireless connection options are. I'm guessing one option must be to use the headphone output, but I have no idea if the output from the headphone socket on my new macbook (which is presumably designed to drive headphones) would be at a suitable level for a phono line level input ?
Ive also read a few comments about using digital connection - and my second question would be - what is the audio digital connection on my macbook ?
Aplogies if this question has been asked lots of times before but I've looked through some previous posts and can't find any answers in simple and straightforward language concentrating on the issue of connecting a MacBook Pro to an analogue phono pre amp input ?
Thanks in anticipation of some advice.

What is the best way to connect a MacBook Pro to my HiFi system?
Look at the back of the reciever and see what your connection options are, the front headphone jack is output usually.
The Mac's analog audio in/out ports doubles as a optical in/out ports.
The analog won't over power your amp, it's just a headphonejack, like a powered mic, just enough power to get the signal to the destination in one piece.
Since you have a analog amp, your stuck with inferior analog connections, however you mentioned you wish to listen to the best sound quality of your lossless music.
To do that your going to need a decent surround sound system with Toslink optical import jacks, a Toslink stereo jack to regular Toslink adapter, Toslink cable and enable the optical output in your System Preferences >Sound
Another method is to use a Airport Express, it also has duo analog/opical out port. Then set up the Airport Express for iTunes streaming using the Airport Utility, then in iTunes setup the lower right corner one can set the connection.
I recommned a Harmon Kardon surround sound system, with their 100 watt satelight speakers and the 200 watt subwoofer. Enable the "concert hall" and other neat effects which will turn your 2.0 (stereo) iTunes music into 4 channel speaker sound filling the room with music and sending the lower channels to the subwoofer.
It will likely bring tears to your eyes that you can actually hear the full quality of your music as intended, I almost quarranty you will never want listen to music on a crappy iPhone or iPod again.
If a surround sound system is out of your budget, you can get by using the Harmon Kardon "Go Play" portable stereo and a analog stereo cable.
If your going to use your analog amp to power reference speakers, then there are various analog adapters of all sorts to make the appropriate connections once you know what they are, check out Radio Shack online for them.

What is the best way to keep your macbook pro in tip top condition. performance wise

What is the best way to keep the performance of a macbook pro in tip top shape. Over the years my computer seems to act like a pc with all of its hicups and lockups.
I am running mountain lion and this computer is approx 2 years old.
Not sure if there is some sort of software that will help with this or is there something else I can do.
Thanks
GAJ

How to maintain a Mac
1. Make redundant backups, keeping at least one off site at all times. One backup is not enough. Don’t back up your backups; all should be made directly from the original data. Don’t rely completely on any single backup method, such as Time Machine. If you get an indication that a backup has failed, don't ignore it.
2. Keep your software up to date. In the App Store or Software Update preference pane (depending on the OS version), you can configure automatic notifications of updates to OS X and other Mac App Store products. Some third-party applications from other sources have a similar feature, if you don’t mind letting them phone home. Otherwise you have to check yourself on a regular basis.
Keeping up to date is especially important for complex software that modifies the operating system, such as device drivers. Before installing any Apple update, you must check that all such modifications that you use are compatible. Incompatibility with third-party software is by far the most common cause of trouble with system updates.
3. Don't install crapware, such as “themes,” "haxies," “add-ons,” “toolbars,” “enhancers," “optimizers,” “accelerators,” "boosters," “extenders,” “cleaners,” "doctors," "tune-ups," “defragmenters,” “firewalls,” "barriers," “guardians,” “defenders,” “protectors,” most “plugins,” commercial "virus scanners,” "disk tools," or "utilities." With very few exceptions, such stuff is useless or worse than useless. Above all, avoid any software that purports to change the look and feel of the user interface.
It's not much of an exaggeration to say that the whole "utility" software industry for the Mac is a fraud on consumers. The most extreme examples are the "CleanMyMac" and “MacKeeper” scams, but there are many others.
As a rule, the only software you should install is that which directly enables you to do the things you use a computer for, and doesn't change the way other software works.
Safari extensions, and perhaps the equivalent for other web browsers, are a partial exception to the above rule. Most are safe, and they're easy to get rid of if they don't work. Some may cause the browser to crash or otherwise malfunction. Some are malicious. Use with caution, and install only well-known extensions from relatively trustworthy sources, such as the Safari Extensions Gallery.
Never install any third-party software unless you know how to uninstall it. Otherwise you may create problems that are very hard to solve. Do not rely on "utilities" such as "AppCleaner" and the like that purport to remove software.
4. Don't install bad, conflicting, or unnecessary fonts. Whenever you install new fonts, use the validation feature of the built-in Font Book application to make sure the fonts aren't defective and don't conflict with each other or with others that you already have. See the built-in help and this support article for instructions. Deactivate or remove fonts that you don't really need to speed up application launching.
5. Avoid malware. Malware is malicious software that circulates on the Internet. This kind of attack on OS X was once so rare that it was hardly a concern, but malware is now increasingly common, and increasingly dangerous.
There is some built-in protection against downloading malware, but you can’t rely on it — the attackers are always at least one day ahead of the defense. You can’t rely on third-party protection either. What you can rely on is common-sense awareness — not paranoia, which only makes you more vulnerable.
Never install software from an untrustworthy or unknown source. If in doubt, do some research. Any website that prompts you to install a “codec” or “plugin” that comes from the same site, or an unknown site, is untrustworthy. Software with a corporate brand, such as Adobe Flash Player, must come directly from the developer's website. No intermediary is acceptable, and don’t trust links unless you know how to parse them. Any file that is automatically downloaded from the web, without your having requested it, should go straight into the Trash. A web page that tells you that your computer has a “virus,” or that anything else is wrong with it, is a scam.
In OS X 10.7.5 or later, downloaded applications and Installer packages that have not been digitally signed by a developer registered with Apple are blocked from loading by default. The block can be overridden, but think carefully before you do so.
Because of recurring security issues in Java, it’s best to disable it in your web browsers, if it’s installed. Few websites have Java content nowadays, so you won’t be missing much. This action is mandatory if you’re running any version of OS X older than 10.6.8 with the latest Java update. Note: Java has nothing to do with JavaScript, despite the similar names. Don't install Java unless you're sure you need it. Most people don't.
6. Don't fill up your boot volume. A common mistake is adding more and more large files to your home folder until you start to get warnings that you're out of space, which may be followed in short order by a boot failure. This is more prone to happen on the newer Macs that come with an internal SSD instead of the traditional hard drive. The drive can be very nearly full before you become aware of the problem.
While it's not true that you should or must keep any particular percentage of space free, you should monitor your storage use and make sure you're not in immediate danger of using it up. According to Apple documentation, you need at least 9 GB of free space on the startup volume for normal operation.
If storage space is running low, use a tool such as OmniDiskSweeper to explore the volume and find out what's taking up the most space. Move seldom-used large files to secondary storage.
7. Relax, don’t do it. Besides the above, no routine maintenance is necessary or beneficial for the vast majority of users; specifically not “cleaning caches,” “zapping the PRAM,” "resetting the SMC," “rebuilding the directory,” "defragmenting the drive," “running periodic scripts,” “dumping logs,” "deleting temp files," “scanning for viruses,” "purging memory," "checking for bad blocks," "testing the hardware," or “repairing permissions.” Such measures are either completely pointless or are useful only for solving problems, not for prevention.
To use a Mac effectively, you have to free yourself from the Windows mindset that every computer needs regular downtime maintenance such as "defragging" and "registry cleaning." Those concepts do not apply to the Mac platform. A computing device is not something you should have to think about very much. It should be an almost transparent medium through which you communicate, work, and play. If you want a machine that is always whining for your attention like a neurotic dog, use a PC.
The very height of futility is running an expensive third-party application called “Disk Warrior” when nothing is wrong, or even when something is wrong and you have backups, which you must have. Disk Warrior is a data-salvage tool, not a maintenance tool, and you will never need it if your backups are adequate. Don’t waste money on it or anything like it.

What is the best way to make music in Logic pro8?

ok, Im using a Mac, 3 external keyboards,a profire 2626 (audio interface) and a MIDI sport (midi interface). I am wanting to track in the audio from the 3 keyboards as MIDI. I wanted to know what is the best way to do this? Is it required to record the audio and MIDI at the same time? When i do do this, (record MIDI and Audio simultaniously), i get this doubling effect after the loop comes back, because of the MIDI and the Audio tracks combined. Arent you supposed to create some kind of Aux track to avoid this so, you can monitor what you just made so this "doubling effect" isnt heard?...another question. I am experiencing latency and it doesnt make sense. I have a low buffer size (32), but i only experience it when i play the space bar or hit record, not if im just sitting there hitting keys..however, I found a trick to avoid this, but here is where it doesnt make sense. If i go to Settings>Synchronization>MIDI...then set my Transmit MIDI Clock Destination to (ALL)...i hear the Latency wehne i hit space bar or record..But if i deselect All...and choose MIDI Sport Port 1...or port 2....there is no latency when i hit space bar or record.. and this doesnt make sense to me because i have 3 keyboards in Ports 1-3..so why wont the destination work better on All?....ok,,that sums it up ..thanks

There are many different ways to use Logic. You will develop your own technique as you gain experience with it. The doubling you are experiencing is because the midi track is being sent back into your instrument as you record.. Shut off local control on your keyboard. Or temporarily assign the midi track you are recording to an instrument that is NOT being sent back to the same instrument..
If you are recording three midi keyboards at once, make sure each one is sending on a different midi channel, also make sure that midi instruments are NOt sending back to your keyboards.
Getting rid of latency is another problem. I am not familiar with MIDI sport. What you want to do is listen to a LIVE input (coming directly from instrument) - then turn the level down on the corresponding track you are recording into Logic. If your audio interface won't let you do that you must turn the audio buffer down as low as your computer will allow without distortion.

Satellite U405 - What is the best way to increases battery life

Hi everyone!
I've been looking for this quite a bit and all I could find are conflicting answers and some confusing instructions... :)
Even the PDF file for my U405 has some conflicting tips (is it recommended to fully discharge it or not?)
Let's say that I don't want to remove it and store it with a 40% charge in a low temperature location (?) because I also want to trust it as a UPS (power failures are common where I stay).
So, in short, what is the best way to prolong my battery life to its maximum? Should I fully discharge it once a month or only half way through? Should it never be fully charged or that's actually a good thing?
Thanks in advance for any wisdom anyone can offer on this!
David

The best way would be indeed to put it out of the notebook, but you already said, you won't do this.
So, I would say to fully unload the battery once in a while and load it to a maximum.
This is all I can tell you right now, but don't know how much this will increase the battery's life.

What Is The Best Way To Connect Ipod To Stereo Reciever With High Quality?

I recently purchased an 80 gig and am a newbie. I ripped all my music at around 280kbps to retain good audio quality when playing in my car and home theatre system. There are tons of accesories out there (docks, jacks, etc) which is the highest quality to connect my Yamaha receiver. I would think a connection to the bottom of my ipod would be of a higher quality rather than using the headphone jack. Any suggestions would be great. I was thinking about using the monster itv link but mostly for audio. thanks

OK - So now that you have all completely ignored the original question - in hopes of proving your manly-hood....
Does anyone have an answer to the original question....
"What is the best way to connect to a high end home stereo to retain the best sound?"
For sure any connection going through the headphone jack will be a big step back - enough so that you would easily hear a sound quality loss in doing so.
For the few of you who would like to argue/bicker/rant on the nominal sound quality loss....keep on doing so, but for those who actually have some respectable advice we would love to hear it.
For the record, I tend to hear just outside the normal human auditory range...
To help myself put it to rest already... a few years back I decided to conduct my own little listening test.
I took 6 different common ripping modalities (from lossless - to - 128kbps in both MP3 & AAC.... then transfered all of them in order to a blank. Used the same song for each - the song chosen opened with a few clean crisp bars of high freq. music, followed by an instant explosion/drop into a tight & low bassline.
The final cutoff that was achieved before I was unable to detect an audible difference was 198 VBR AAC. Having convinced myself that there was the ever sooooooo slight difference b/t 198 & 256, I went with my current ripping status of 256.... Just incase my audible range should become finally honed with age (yeah, like that is really going to happen) !
This test was run over a Yamaha DSP receiver, running at a constant 110w per channel (w/a max of 220w). The speaker setup was a full surround set of Klipsch Reference Series..... each speaker housing 2 x 6.5 woofer (each housing 2 x 1" Titanium tweeters) And sitting along side the 5 surrounds was/is a 150w continuous 12in. Subwoofer.
Now I am hardly stating that I have hearing as good as some of you extremely technically profound music enthusiasts out there, but for the majority of people making comments about sound quality, and lack there of - when played over a $120/40w Audiovox radio.... I'm sorry, but I would have to side on that of......"Hogwash, that you can hear a difference!"
So.... if possible would someone please offer some advice on a dock or cable connection that will allow us to enjoy the music we ripped at whatever
so-called range we did!
For those interested in seeing who could hit the further bullseye with their eyes closed, You win!!! Now can you help us?
MBP Mac OS X (10.4.9)

What is the best way to keep high res when saving "for web"

the files i'm saving for web so i can get them in jpg (or gif) format are coming out very pixelated. this is when i print the image.
what is the best way to save for web an image and keep the resolution good.
using for a business card template. avery template will let me attach images i want to the project. to do this.. i "get file from computer" and it drops the image in but real small... then you are supposed to enlarge it onto your work however you want. well when i enlarge this image file, it gets pixelated badly. i'm thinking it's the way i'm saving it. i do not adjust anything when i save. maybe i should. this is where i need guidance.
this is what avery template notes about the images i am allowed to use - When uploading the image, the maximum size allowed is 4 MB. You can only upload JPG and PNG images either as RGB or CMYK. so when you recommend things, can you please keep this in mind
thank you for oyur time.

Aida,
When you save with the default template using save for web it is generally a very low settings.
While in the save window you can define the pixel size of the image you want with quality as well as resolution too.
Refer to tv.adobe.com video save for web or Adobe help file for detailed instructions.
Mandhir

What's the best way to use your iPad instead of textbooks?

What's the best way to use your iPad instead of textbooks? I'm about to start a BSN program and have heard of using your iPad for textbooks instead of buying and carrying around 8 different books. Is there an app for that? Or do you buy or rent the books? What's the best solution?

Or, if you're like me and you want to do a lot of heavy reading, use the iPad because the low contrast on a Kindle is extremely fatiguing.
Seriously, though "screen glare will cause eye strain" is often taken as an article of faith, there's not a lot of good scientific evidence for it. "Eye strain" can be caused by concentrating on any close work for long periods of time. Looking up and focusing on something distant periodically is very helpful. Older CRT screens that flicker also can be aggravting. I'm not denying that some people find reading backlit screens uncomfortable. However, it's not dangerous. And, then, there are other people who find the higher contrast a backlit screen affords to be much less wearying over long periods of time.

What is the best way to match back 3rd party vendor data to our SQL Server Database?

So we have this 3rd party data that we need to match back to our database. We have determined that the "ID" column that the 3rd party is sending us back data is a concatenated key of our member's SSN, Gender, and CCYYMMDD Birthdate. In 90% of the
cases, we can match back on this. However, the other 10% we have to try a couple of different ways...using our Member #, using what is called a HFCA #.
We are talking about 10s and 20s of data here...NOT thousands.
What is the best way to handle this via SSIS? A SQL Server Stored Procedure to cursor through the 3rd party data or multiple INSERT-SELECT statements trying to marry back the data? My thought process was to cursor through each record, try and match on our
90% match, and then determine if we have a match or not, and then if we do not, then try our other means. Should I SELECT 1 to see which matching criteria to go with? So in other words, for the first match...
IF EXISTS(SELECT 1 FROM TableName WHERE ColumnName1 = .....) BEGIN....ELSE...Blah Blah Blah
or simply continue doing INSERT-SELECTS...
I guess I am asking about the efficiency of using a cursor within a SQL Server Stored Procedure here.
Thanks for your review and am hopeful for a reply.

You are asking a SSIS question but posted in tsql - which is it? But before you go further, which matching logic should have priority? Member # or the SSN/gender/birthdate? Note that the priority does not depend on matching success percentage.
In other words, you may prefer to match on member # first (even though it has a lower success ratio but a higher confidence ratio), followed by ssn..., followed by whatever.
In any case, this sounds much more like a SSIS logic issue. Your questions regarding cursors and stored procedures seem premature at this point. OTOH it may depend on what you are actually trying to accomplish.

What is the best way to hookup my airport extreme with my time capsule ?

what is the best way to hookup my airport extreme with my time capsule ?

It sounds like you have the AirPort Extreme configured as the "main" router on your network.
If that is the case, connect an Ethernet cable from one of the LAN <-> ports on the AirPort Extreme to the WAN "O" port on the Time Capsule
Power up the Time Capsule
Connect another spare Ethernet cable from your Mac to one of the LAN <-> ports on the Time Capsule
Open Macintosh HD > Applications > Utilities > AirPort Utility
Click on the Time Capsule, then click Manual Setup
Click the Wireless tab below the row of icons and make sure that the setting for Wireless Mode = Off
Click the Internet icon, the click the Internet tab
Insure that the setting for Connect Using = Ethernet
Insure that the setting for Connection Sharing = Off (Bridge Mode)
Click the Update button at the lower right of the window and wait a full minute for the Time Capsule to restart
Then power cycle the entire network by powering everything off....order of power down does not matter
Wait a minute
Power up the modem first, and let it run a few minutes by itself
Power up the AirPort Extreme next and let it run a full minute
Power up the Time Capsule next and let it run a full minute
Keep starting devices one at a time about a minute apart until the entire network is back up
You will need to reset the backup path from your Mac to the Time Capsule to get backups going again
Open System Preference (gear icon on the dock)
Open Time Machine
Click Select Disk
Click the Time Capsule to highlight it
Click Use for Backups or Use Disk and backups should begin again in a few minutes
If you do not want to leave the Mac connected to the Time Capsule by Ethernet, remove the Ethernet cable from the Mac to the Time Capsule, then log on to the AirPort Extreme wireless network

What is the best way is to create a web app item collection which will contain only the listings where addressstate="ABC".

What is the best way is to create a web app item collection which will contain only the listings where addressstate="ABC".

How many systems have you used Robert?
This is the only system you can not have all item data at least in JSON format and all of it. Big commerce has a lower limit and as I have said in every post related to a limit - I understand the function, but you can still make the requests as just one example (front and back)
Same with API Robert.
Firstly - the SOAP API request on say products gets you ALL the products, if you do something through a REST API request you can make the requests to get all the items to complete your process of what your doing - You have to otherwise the API is pointless.
Ok if the normal modules can not iterate through if there is a module_data solution, and web apps will get there hopefully sooner then later and you do have the sql query (where) for your filter which is great BUT, if you want to implement a solution across everything you cant do that with the liquid implementation.
This also flows through to the JSON everywhere in concept which is fundamentally flawed for the same reason... And again referring other like services where a hard API has a limit but the JSON request returns everything.
How those work varies from the method of request, some will only update every day, xxx time (Depending on cost of the plan) so its a cached version of data, to the ones that limit that request to x number of times per set time/day.
That is how the actual rest of the world works, varied solutions but they are solutions. BC know they have a few limitations, there clearly is the need for things, there are a varied set of options... It is just a matter of engaging in it and offering up a solution for it, silence just creates frustration.

OK, what is the best way to lower specific frequencies in edit view

Similar Messages

Maybe you are looking for