Old-New wrt54g v8..orange-white light????

Just acquired wrt54g from friend. i have made buku efforts to install. Hard boots, soft boots, cd set up, manual set up, web set up page...NOTHing working!
When router is installed, my desk top, hard wired, access net...but my lap top, wireless, will not detect network... UNTIL I push the square, orange lit button, box labels it a the one touch set up,... when pushed, it changes from orange to white flashing. Now, my lap top will detect network, connect and access net....BUTT, only for 1 or 2 minutes, then the light on router returns to orange and network no longer exists. HELP!!! Repeat steps. HELP!!!

Who is your ISP...?
What settings you have done on the router..?
Try this..
Open the router setup page,Click on the Wireless tab..Wireless Network mode should be mixed...Provide a unique name in the Wireless Network Name (SSID) box.Set the Wireless channel to 11-2.462GHz...Wireless SSID broadcast should be Enabled and then click on Save Settings..
Click on the Sub tab under Wireless > Wireless Security...and setup the WEP security.
Click on Advanced Wireless Settings...Change the Beacon Interval to 50,Fragmentation Threshold to 2304,RTS Threshold to 2304 and Click on Save Settings...
Now see if you can locate your Wireless Network and attempt to connect...

Similar Messages

HT4623 Sitting my new iphone 5 next to my old iphone 4s all the whites on the Iphone 5 look Yellow and overwarm! Would i be elligable for a replacement? iPhone 5, iOS 6

Sitting my new iphone 5 next to my old iphone 4s all the whites on the Iphone 5 look Yellow and overwarm! Would i be elligable for a replacement like a new one?
Sitting my new iphone 5 next to my old iphone 4s all the whites on the Iphone 5 look Yellow and overwarm! Would i be elligable for a replacement?
iPhone 5, iOS 6

Oh, look around on this forum. Someone else had the same question and it was answered. It just takes a little time to set and should be fine.

Very low signal with new WRT54G (V7.2) comparing with my old BEF1W1154

I bought myself a new WRT54G router to replace my old (but good working) b-router. With the old router I have a great signal in/outdoors.
With the new g-router I experience a low signal , even in the room were I installed the router. In other rooms or outdoors I don't have a signal at all.
Please advice

There are many causes for poor wireless connections, and many solutions:
First of all, give your network a unique SSID. Do not use "linksys". If you are using "linksys" you may be trying to connect to your neighbor's router. Also set "SSID Broadcast" to "enabled". This will help your computer find and lock on to your router's signal.
Poor wireless connections are often caused by radio interference from other 2.4 GHz devices. This includes wireless phones, wireless baby monitors, microwave ovens, wireless mice and keyboards, wireless speakers, and your neighbor's wireless network. In rare cases, Bluetooth devices can interfere. Even some 5+ GHz phones also use the 2.4 Ghz band. Unplug these devices, and see if that corrects your problem.
In your router, try a different channel. There are 11 channels in the 2.4 GHz band. Usually channel 1, 6, or 11 works best. Check out your neighbors, and see what channel they are using. Because the channels overlap one another, try to stay at least +5 or -5 channels from your strongest neighbors. For example, if you have a strong neighbor on channel 9, try any channel 1 through 4.
Also, try to locate the router about 4 to 6 feet above the floor, in an open area. Do not locate it behind your monitor or near other computer equipment or speakers. The antenna should be vertical.
Also, in the computer, go to your wireless software, and go to "Preferred Networks" (sometimes called "Profiles" ). There are probably a few networks listed. Delete any network named "linksys". Also delete any network that you do not recognize, or that you no longer use. If your current network is not listed, enter its info (SSID, encryption (if any), and key (if any) ). Then select your current network and make it your default network, and set it to automatic login. You may need to go to "settings" to do this, or you may need to right click on your network and select "Properties" or "settings".
If the above does not fix your problem, download and install the latest driver for your wireless card.
Some users have reported improved wireless performance by switching to WPA encryption.
If you continue to have problems, try the following:
For wireless g routers, try setting the "Transmission Rate" to 54 Mbps.
If you still have trouble, download and install the latest firmware for your router. After a firmware upgrade, you must reset the router to factory defaults, then setup the router again from scratch. If you saved a router configuration file, DO NOT use it.
Hope this helps.

HT3180 Uploaded new software update and all I have is a little black box with an incessant flashing white light. I have pushed menu + downarrow on the remote, unplugged for 10 seconds and stiill no change when I plug it in again ! !

Uploaded new software update and all I have is a little black box with an incessant flashing white light. I have pushed menu + downarrow on the remote, unplugged for 10 seconds and stiill no change when I plug it in again ! !

Welcome to the Apple Community.
If your problem persists get yourself a micro USB cable (sold separately), you can restore your Apple TV from iTunes:
Remove ALL cables from Apple TV. (if you don't you will not see Apple TV in the iTunes Source list)
Connect the micro USB cable to the Apple TV and to your computer.
Reconnect the power cable (only for Apple TV 3)
Open iTunes.
Select your Apple TV in the Devices list, and then click Restore.
(You may already have a micro USB cable if you have a camera or other digital device)

My Macbook Pro 13¨ i7 wont turn on. I press the on button and the white light wont turn on, I don´t hear and fan noise, or the beeping sound. This Mac is 1 1/2 months old. Can anyone help.

I press the on button and the white light wont turn on, I don´t hear and fan noise, or the beeping sound. This Mac is 1 1/2 months old. Can anyone help.

You are under warranty. You can call Applecare and get advice from the tech rep, or you can bring it to an Apple store or authorized Apple service provider.

Orange and white light on processor light.

orange and white light on processor light. what does it mean?

How can I tell if my mac is charging?
The light on the MagSafe adapter will be orange. You can also check in the menu bar if you enable "Show battery status in menu bar" in system preferences > energy saver
Also, do I have to turn off the computer to charge my battery?
No
What is the best way to get the most out of my battery, keep it plugged in? use with out the electric being plugged in?
If it is convenient then keep it plugged in, but for extended time like weeks, let it run down about 15% every few days.
Also don't let it run out completely, again only if it is convenient.
To be honest just use it when and where you need it. Not doing the above is not going to do massive damage to your MacBook, they are just tips which you should bear in mind and follow them if doing so is not detrimental to your work.

New WRT54G wireless router. Who's the genius that can help me?

I just purchased a WRT54G wireless router. The main reason is my son wanted to be able to use his Sony PSP online. I also have two desktop computers that will be wired thru this router. My question's are. If he is using his PSP online and the desktops are wired, can the desktops be "hacked" if they are on/off? If the router is turned off then the wireless is not working? If I access the router and disable the SSID Broadcast then the wireless portion of the network is off? What are the safest security settings to protect my network?
Thanks.

Dead Mans Zone.... I guess.
Using the DMZ is a very simple and risky way to forward ports. The DMZ takes an ip address of a computer on your network, and forwards all ports to that computer. This is really nice if you are having problems forwarding ports for some program. It can be a life saver if your router will not allow you to properly forward ports. It also has a huge downfall. The computer that is in the DMZ is now wide open to internet traffic. Meaning that it will catch virii, and it will be at risk of being hacked. If you put a computer into the DMZ then please install a software firewall to help protect it
Orange/White. The Cisco logo is the Router’s SecureEasySetup button. It lights up and will stay orange when the Router is powered on. The color orange indicates that the Router is not using the SecureEasySetup feature, while the color white indicates that the Router is using the SecureEasySetup feature. When the Router enters SecureEasySetup mode, the Cisco logo will turn white and start flashing. After the Router has generated the SSID and WPA-PSK (also called WPA-Personal) key, the Cisco logo will stop flashing and stay white.
Message Edited by wehowardjr on 12-30-200611:26 AM

The Flashing Orange Power Light Of Doom! [HH3]

I've had no internet service for a week now, on Infinity 2 with HH3.
All lights on the white modem are green, the hub won't even start, just goes to a steady orange, then after about 15 seconds, a continuously flashing orange power light, and stays there. The other lights are dark. Power cycle doesn't work, holding down the reset button doesn't even reset it.
After lengthy "troubleshooting" on the phone with India, I received a replacement HH3 yesterday, plugged it all in and got all blue lights for all of 3 seconds and then - wham - reset to flashing orange light, which now stays there no matter what I do. The issue was escalated to "Tier 1 support" by India yesterday, but heard nothing.
No service problems reported in my area according to the BT website, but India seemed adamant that it was a network issue (after being adamant that it was a faulty hub earlier in the week...).
This is getting very frustrating now, anyone have any idea what could be causing this ??! I really just want an engineer to come out but India wouldn't arrange that.

It should be quite easy to prove by bypassing the hub and connecting the modem to the PC, then setting up a broadband PPPOE connection.
Here's some instructions provided by Rygg
try a direct connection to the modem. This will rule out your homehub and internal wiring as the fault.
1: Remove the homehub from the modem
2: Connect your pc/laptop into the modem using LAN1 port
3: Open network and sharing centre on windows and click set up a new connection or network
4: Connect to the Internet (the top option) then click make a new connection Broadband PPPoE
5: Username [email protected] and the password as anything you want
6: connect, if it cannot connect, just keep pressing try again if this happens and it will eventually connect.
If you found this post helpful, please click on the star on the left
If not, I'll try again

Corners of screen are bleeding white light! URGENT!

Hi
I just bought a Intel-based iMac Core Duo 20" a few days ago. Not the glossy screen version.
Really would like to hear from a lot of people about this before I contact apple:
The corners of my screen appear to be bleeding a small amount of white light, most notably from the lower right. This is very visible when watching movies, when the scene is very dark or pitch black, my monitor isn't.
I was wondering if this is just something that 20" screens do, because my old 4:3 19" DVI certainly doesn't do this.
Several ways to test if your monitor does this:
photoshop: make a black document and press F twice to go full screen, now press TAB to remove the tools.
front row: open any movie and pause before it starts, hopefully on a black screen.
Would really really appreciate a lot of responses to this. It may be a problem with the mac, may just be normal, I have no idea.
Here is an image of what happens: (slightly exaggerated due to the long exposure and offset angle)
[img]http://static.flickr.com/66/227949822_b6c9331eec.jpg[/img]

Is there a glossy screen version of the iMac? That would be news to me...
My 20" Cinema Display does this, though only from a specific viewing angle. It's not visible when looking at the display straight on. I believe the effect is somehow caused by the anti-glare coating and how it refracts the light, because the color of the "leakage" changes with the viewing angle.
My 20" iMac uses a different, more reflective anti-glare coating and the "leakage" effect is there, but very subtle, not as bad as in your picture. So I guess Apple uses different LCD panels in the iMac and it depends on your luck of the draw...

WHITE LIGHT OF HELL

hello,
MY BIONIC IS COMPLETELY AND HAS BEEN FOR QUITE SOMETIME. YOU NAME IT, I HAVE TRIED TO GET IT POWER BACK ON. I HAVE NEW BATTERY, PLUG VIA USB, USED WALL CHARGER, PRESS & HOLD POWER/VOLUME. CALLED MOTOROLLA, TOO AND THERE'S NOTHING THEY CAN DO. ANY OTHER SUGGESTIONS WOULD HELP. THANK YOU

I don't know if this will help but recently my niece game me her old Droid 2 Global that was dead and no matter what she tried it would not come back on. If it was plugged in it would blink either a red or white light and the screen would flash. I plugged it in for several hours and when my husband moved it he said it "powered down". Since I had not been able to see anything except a flashing screen I didn't think he knew what he was referring to. Ultimately I determined it was a bad charging port. I plugged the device back in and played with the charging cord until the screen stayed on. Now the device is fully charged and works fine, well except that you have to play with it when you plug it in to get it to charge.

I am using the G Drive Slim to back up my files, but I don't know how to tell if or when it is finished. The white light does not change, flicker, go out, etc. When is it finished?

The whole story: The hard drive on my quite new Mac Book Pro, bought in December of 2011, crashed and burned in the Fall of 2012. I purchased a new hard drive and was informed that the only way I could have saved my "stuff" was to back it up with an external hard drive. Who knew?? I bought a G Drive Slim at the Apple store, and on their advice. BUT I really don't understand how to use it, and the instructions are completely inadequate. How can you tell when it is finished? I have educated myself on the proper way to eject the Drive, but I don't know how to tell if it is done. Or, frankly, if it is even doing anything. The white light burns steadily, no blinking, no flickering. Nothing. Thanks for help.

are you backing up files, or doing a Time machine backup, either way, the Time machine will STOP when finished and show "last backup at XXXXXX" meaning its done...... OR if when transferring files, it will show a progress bar on your desktop and vanish when files are copied.
Open up the Hitachi drive (your G drive is made by Hitachi, and the best made by the way).....and see if the files are there.
a MORE VISUAL way is to open the hard drive file, and drag and drop files INTO the Gdrive and you can see them visually be copied there as you do it.
To see your HD on your desktop GOTO FINDER......PREFERENCES....then GENERAL TAB.........check the box marked HARD DRIVES.........then your Gdrive will appear on your desktop........open it from there, and DRAG and drop files from anywhere INTO the Gdrive....... easy visual way to see the files being copied into the Gdrive.

Home hub 3 orange power light and speed problem

Hi, I have posted this again as I think I posted in the wrong place last time being new to the site!
Hi, I have a Home Hub 3 Version A. Orange power light constantly on.
I came across this site while looking for answers and quickly registered to post this.
I have tried all suggestions including a neighbours power supply (Version A as well) to no avail.
Background to help with replies.
I have been had option 3 since 2003.
In that time I have had
H H 1 (failed)
H H 1 replacement (failed)
Netgear – weak wireless and does not like Vodafone suresignal
H H 2 constant dropouts
Back to Netgear
H H 3 Version A lasted 24hrs
Back to Netgear.
For the last 5 months we have been having line problems, regular dropouts.
BT Openreach have been out 4 times, changed virtually everything and traced line back to Exchange.
The last engineers conclusion was line at my home is capable of 12meg and was being throttled as he called it to around 6meg.
He suggested trying a H H 3 and contacting BT for line to be opened up.
For two reasons.
With a faster speed line fault would be easier to locate.
Line was capable of so much more.
Several LONG calls to BT answering all the format questions first, (to be fair 0800 so no cost) each time first being told my speed was within contract stated speeds, then after my explanation regarding BT Openreach engineers views I was told an engineer would be contacted to improve line speed.
Needless to say nothing happened.
The frustrating point being each new call generated the same response – NOTHING on their system to show a previous call had been made by me.
Hence the reason for this post.
I feel the helpline, whilst free, achieves nothing except a long time on the phone answering repetitive questions answered before.
I am loathe to phone again as I will undoubtedly be told there is no record of any previous calls or action and I want to resolve the H H 3 Version A problem so it can be used.
Any help appreciated

Hi John46 and thanks for the reply.
Can't try H H 3 it is dead.
i saw somewhere on the forums when i first found you about a route that simplifies action from BT.
Have looked since and cannot locate it.
Do you know where it is?
With the Netgear which I have no option but to use,
ADSL on reports
Multiplex VC-BASED
VPI 0
VCI 38
Speedtester result............
1. Best Effort Test: -provides background information.
Download Speed
6667 Kbps
0 Kbps
7150 Kbps
Max Achievable Speed
Download speedachieved during the test was - 6667 Kbps
For your connection, the acceptable range of speeds is 2000-7150 Kbps.
Additional Information:
Your DSL Connection Rate :8128 Kbps(DOWN-STREAM), 448 Kbps(UP-STREAM)
IP Profile for your line is - 7170 Kbps
2. Upstream Test: -provides background information.
Upload Speed
367 Kbps
0 Kbps
448 Kbps
Max Achievable Speed
>Upload speed achieved during the test was - 367 Kbps
Additional Information:
Upstream Rate IP profile on your line is - 448 Kbps
Wall socket - tested by engineer and renewed AND RF filter fiited, just 'incase'.
Noise test also done.
Thank you for pointing me to the test, even if I had a game with Java before I could use it (New PC)!
As I read the results I am under 8meg. Openreach engineer said line was being 'throttled' as it was capable of circa 12meg this distance from the exchange. I am meant to be on 20meg contract.
Chhers,
I will watch out for a reply.
Any pointers on the H H 3 complaint route would be appreciated, i am begining to think I imagined it!!!
ps Where is the rating star? I can't see it here ?

I am unable to set my WD mybook world edition (white light) for time machine.

I have new iMac running OS X Mavricks 10.9 and a WD mybook world edition (white light) connected via eithernet to router.
I am unable to set up time machine using this drive.
I can see the MyBookWorld drive in Finder and read and write files with no problems. I can also see the MyBookWorld_Backup drive but I am unable to connect.
Time machine can see the drive but when I select, use drive, it trys to connect and gives me an error message: There was a problem connecting to the server "MyBookWorld-Backup"
I have already updated the hardrive firmware.
Any ideas?

WD and their lack of support for Mavericks:
A recent email from WD reads:
Dear WD Registered Customer,
UPDATE: November 1st, 2013
As a valued WD customer we want to make you aware of new reports of Western Digital and other external HDD products experiencing data loss when updating to Apple's OS X Mavericks (10.9). WD is urgently investigating these reports and the possible connection to the WD Drive Manager, WD Raid Manager and WD SmartWare software applications. Until the issue is understood and the cause identified, WD strongly urges our customers to uninstall these software applications before updating to OS X Mavericks (10.9), or delay upgrading. If you have already upgraded to Mavericks, WD recommends that you remove these applications and restart your computer. If you have already upgraded to Mavericks and are experiencing difficulty in accessing your external hard drive, please do not save anything to the drive, disconnect the drive from your computer, and contact Western Digital Customer Service at http://support.wd.com/country/ for further assistance.
The WD Drive Manager, WD Raid Manager, and WD SmartWare software applications are not new and have been available from WD for many years. However, solely as a precaution WD has removed these applications from our website as we investigate this issue.
Sincerely,
Western Digital
Which is basically Western Digital informing you that their out-of-date utilities don’t support Mavericks.
In any case those utilities are not the most effective. The moral of the story is: the first thing you should do after buying a WD drive is to format it as HFS Extended (Journaled) and not install ANY of their utilities but instead use reliable applications like CarbonCopyCloner or SuperDuper - or Time Machine.

Imac starts with a black screen and flashing white light on console

I have a 24" imac, it is white and it is from the first year they used the intel chip. When I power it up I get a black blank screen and then the white light on the lower right side of the console flashes on and off. I hear the disk drive spin (I put the 10.4 install disk in ) and it does nothing. How do I get the disk out. I even tried holding down the mouse button at start up and that doesn't work.
I tried to remedy this myself by resetting pram. I have taken out memory and put it back in. I have been able to get it running twice before by taking out memory and putting it back in but it only worked for a little while and then I turned it off and went to turn it back on and same problem again. Is this a logic board problem or something else. I think I read if it was the logic board the disk drive wouldn't work but I hear it spinning.
Can anyone help me?

Hi MacGruff69
That has all the classic signs of unseated, improperly seated or bad RAM.
Laying the iMac face down on a soft towel and reseat the module(s) by pressing real hard on each one with both thumbs, then closing the ejector clips and replacing the cover.
http://support.apple.com/kb/HT1432
Them if the iMac still has the same symptoms, try one module at a time or replace the module(s) with new one(s).
http://eshop.macsales.com/shop/apple/memory/iMac/IntelCore_2Duo
Dennis

Blinking lights across ipod ttouch and white light strip at the bottom

there is kind a lightening across I pod touch and white light strip at the bottom ? does it need to replace battery or there is some reason ? some time it display is normal bit then it starts again ???

Try:
- Reset the iOS device. Nothing will be lost
Reset iOS device: Hold down the On/Off button and the Home button at the same time for at
least ten seconds, until the Apple logo appears.
- Reset all settings
Go to Settings > General > Reset and tap Reset All Settings.
All your preferences and settings are reset. Information (such as contacts and calendars) and media (such as songs and videos) aren’t affected.
- Restore from backup. See:
iOS: Back up and restore your iOS device with iCloud or iTunes
- Restore to factory settings/new iOS device.
If still problem, make an appointment at the Genius Bar of an Apple store since it appears you have a hardware problem.
Apple Retail Store - Genius Bar

Old-New wrt54g v8..orange-white light????

Similar Messages

Maybe you are looking for