On my mini ipad, I cleared the cookies/histories in the safari setting. But what does the advance-setting of the clearing the website data does? What's that used for? Thank you!
On my mini ipad, when I'm on the internet -- a few times I will see a blue small pop-up boxes telling me to allow down/load or add something like the bubble-splash game or something similar. I jusr click ignore and it goes away.. I'm not sure why it's showing up lately.. I'm not sure if it's a virus or hacked in or a web brower matter..
Should I go to the cookies/histories in the safari setting and have it cleared out? Will that help resolve that??
And what does the advance-setting of the clearing the website data does? Sorry, I'm not familiar.. what's is that used for? Should I use that feature as well?? Thank you!
This indicates corrupt files.
A restore should resolve.
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I get Error 20 when I try to download updates for installed Apple apps on my IMac. I have two users on the IMac, and I resolve the problem by clearing all cookies on both users Safari, opening and closing the App Store for each user, shutting down and restarting the IMac for each user, until finally the download works. There must be an easier way. I also have an Air, where I have no problems whatsoever. Both machines have Doorstop and MacKeeper with the same settings, so I have ruled those programs out as the cause. I believe iot is because I have two users - any ideas?
Please read this whole message and be sure you understand all of it before doing anything. Back up all data before making changes to your settings.
Write down the server addresses.
Click Cancel to close the Advanced sheet. Unlock the preference pane, if necessary, by clicking the lock icon in the lower left corner and entering your password. Open the DNS tab again and change the server addresses to the following:
8.8.8.8
8.8.4.4
That's Google DNS. Click OK, then Apply.
In Safari, select
Safari ▹ Preferences... ▹ Privacy ▹ Remove All Website Data
and confirm. If you’re using another browser, empty the cache. Test. Any difference?
Notes:
1. If you lose Internet access after making the above change to your network settings, delete the Google servers in the Network preference pane, then select the TCP/IP tab and click Renew DHCP Lease. That should restore the original DNS settings; otherwise restore them yourself.
2. I’m not advocating Google or anything else as a DNS provider; the server addresses are offerred merely for testing purposes. There may be privacy and technical issues involved in using that service, which you should investigate personally before you decide whether to keep the settings. Other public DNS services exist. -
Hi I'm using iPad.i would like to purchase one of my game but I couldn't,because I don't know the answer to the question.like where was your first job and where was your favorite job.would you please help me.thank you
See Kappy's great User Tips.
See my User Tip for some help: Some Solutions for Resetting Forgotten Security Questions: Apple Support Communities https://discussions.apple.com/docs/DOC-4551
Rescue email address and how to reset Apple ID security questions
http://support.apple.com/kb/HT5312
Send Apple an email request for help at: Apple - Support - iTunes Store - Contact Us http://www.apple.com/emea/support/itunes/contact.html
Call Apple Support in your country: Customer Service: Contacting Apple for support and service http://support.apple.com/kb/HE57
Cheers, Tom -
Hi my mini ipad has locked me out and says connect to Itunes but it wont connect to it
Hi my mini ipad has locked me out and says connect to Itunes but it wont connect to it
Try:
Placing your device into recovery (DFU-Device Firmware Upgrade) mode:
Follow these steps to place your iOS device into recovery mode. If your iOS device is already in recovery mode, you can proceed immediately to step 6.
1. Disconnect the USB cable from the iPhone, iPad, or iPod touch, but leave the
other end of the cable connected to your computer's USB port.
2. Turn off the device: Press and hold the Sleep/Wake button for a few seconds
until the red slider appears, then slide the slider. Wait for the device to turn off.
* If you cannot turn off the device using the slider, press and hold the
Sleep/Wake and Home buttons at the same time. When the device turns off,
release the Sleep/Wake and Home buttons.
3. While pressing and holding the Home button, reconnect the USB cable to the
device. The device should turn on. Note: If you see the battery charge warning,
let the device charge for at least ten minutes to ensure that the battery has some
charge, and then start with step 2 again.
4. Continue holding the Home button until you see the "Connect to iTunes" screen.
When this screen appears you can release the Home button:
5. If necessary, open iTunes. You should see the following "recovery mode" alert:
6. Use iTunes to restore the device.
If you don't see the "Connect to iTunes" screen, try these steps again. If you see the "Connect to iTunes" screen but the device does not appear in iTunes, see this article and its related links.
Note: When using recovery mode, you can only restore the device. All user content on the device will be erased, but if you had previously synced with iTunes on this computer, you can restore from a previous backup. See this article for more information. -
Help!! I just updated my iPad 2 into IOS 5.1.1.. When it finished updating, I can't open all of my games. Please help me fix this. :( thank you.
You are most welcome
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I downloaded firefox to replace explorer. When I did, I accidentally removed the awesome bar. How do I get it back?
Also, I would like to bring over all of my bookmarks from explorer. Is that possible?
Thank you.In Firefox 3.6 and later on Windows you can hide the "Menu Bar" via "View > Toolbars" or via the right-click context menu on a toolbar.
Press F10 or press and hold the Alt key down to bring up the "Menu Bar" temporarily.
Go to "View > Toolbars" or right-click the "Menu Bar" or press Alt+V T to select which toolbars to show or hide (click on an entry to toggle the state).
See also:
* [[Menu bar is missing]]
* http://kb.mozillazine.org/Toolbar_customization -
hi, on the link below, I need to open the "demande de visa de resident temporaire" but once I click on it it gives me the following message: " To view the full contents of this document, you need a later version of the PDF viewer. You can upgrade to the latest version of Adobe Reader from www.adobe.com/products/acrobat/readstep2.html For further support, go to www.adobe.com/support/products/acrreader.html".
the link is: http://www.cic.gc.ca/francais/information/demandes/visa.asp?countrySelect=RO#applications
can someone please help me? I've tried installing everything as per the indication in the message but I still get that error message.update your adobe reader here, http://get.adobe.com/reader/
untick unwanted tag-along ware. -
Hi, I planned to purchase a laptop for me to use for graphic design ..could let me know which laptop would be the best for me to use ? Thank you! Pro or Air
Someday - and no one knows when that day will come - maybe all applications will be able to take advantage of the Retina display. But for the present, not many do: including all Adobe applications. There was a demo of Photoshop at the Apple World Wide Developers Conference of Photoshop running at native Retina resolutions but no one at Adobe in marketing is saying when, if or how the upgrade may be coming. It could be a week, it could be a year, it could be 2-3 years. No one knows. And only Apple app's (for the main part) are really utilizing the native Retina display.
I've seen some demos of some applications (Apple's) that take advantage of the Retina display and they're awesome. But in actually working in the here-and-now I've heard quite a few gripes, particularly on the Photoshop forum, of menus looking pixelated and/or 'blurry' so I'm not quite ready to jump into the Retina display boat just now. Don't get me wrong - others have ad are very, very pleased with their selection. But until Retina displays are available on larger monitors, the maximum work area that you're going to be able to use is 15" - and that's simply not enough room for full-blown graphic design. Then there's the cost factor - for the $4,000+ you spend for a completely full-blown Retina kit, you can get a standard MacBook Pro, 16 GB of RAM, a fast SSD and even the Apple Thunderbolt Display for the same amount.
The standard MacBook Pro isn't better than the Retina display: it's just different. And I think (and this is only my opinion - other graphic designers should feel free to jump in here) that it's the best computer that you can get for your specific purposes. And, towards that goal, I have to recommend a very good external monitor (there's nothing more annoying than having to use InDesign in a single-page mode rather than side-by-side because your monitor isn't big enough).
Remember that this is only my opinion and that others might jump in with their own. But I was in the electronic pre-press business for more years than I care to admit and we always - always - worked with at least 19" monitors (and that's back when dinosaurs actually ruled the world).
I hope that others will jump in with their comments. I'm going to follow this thread and see!
Good luck,
Clinton -
I purchased and installedParallels Desktop 8 for Mac, I now have to purchase the Microsoft Word software, is the student edition my best bet? I have a MacBook with 2 gig of RAM, and am curious as to any advice anyone has, thank you.
I currently have 71.88 GB out of 118.86 of HD memory available
These is the system overview:
Model Name: MacBook
Model Identifier: MacBook2,1
Processor Name: Intel Core 2 Duo
Processor Speed: 2.16 GHz
Number of Processors: 1
Total Number of Cores: 2
L2 Cache: 4 MB
Memory: 2 GB
Bus Speed: 667 MHz
Boot ROM Version: MB21.00A5.B07
SMC Version (system): 1.17f0
Sudden Motion Sensor:
State: Enabledthe student edition is the best of you are a student and can get the discount.
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When the system status says icloud is OK but logon reports "encountered an error when connecting to the server", where do you report the problem, or how do you connect?
Yes i am hoping staff here will look into things, even if i can not get the speeds back what i previously had for near 6 months it would be nice to know why i can not and why the download has dropped by around 10Mb and why my upload is now inconsistant.
Ironically the post concerned got edited because i actually posted the full rather silly reply the Indian call centre made babbling on about down rates rather than the uprate i queried with them.
Bit of a shambles really no real way on BTs web site to contact anyone with regards to broadband issues.
The form which you kindly suggested and i appreciated your help ended up in the hands of someone who either did not bother to read the query or just had such a poor grasp of English they did not understand the query.
Pretty pathetic really when BT are the largest telco in the UK. I think ill be taking my broadband business elsewhere regardless at the end of my 18 month contract, while im sure staff here are wonderful and may even yet help me, i do not particularly want to go through the almost like pulling teeth pain of getting any future issue looked at.
They are great at quickly fixing voice line problems and have a great test on their site. Broadband side of things and support for that though seems a shambles. -
Often when I do a search and then click on the link I am redirected to a fake or phishing website. How can I stop this? Thank you!
Usually you would get to a phishing site directly by mistyping, or from the search itself.
You can avoid a lot of phishing sites with the following:
'''Tools > Options > Security'''<br>
''Known attack sites can be blocked here, uses information reported to Firefox and to Google.''<br>
[x] Warn me when sites try to install add-ons<br>
[x] Block reported attack sites<br>
[x] Block reported web forgeries
Having a good '''hosts''' file on your system can protect your entire system cross-application and all browsers and all your Firefox profiles against a lot malware. The '''hosts''' file must coded for www.example.com, example.com, anything.example.com -- '''Adblock Plus''' is more generic and can do more with less coding. See links below.
'''More information:''' on extensions and keyword shortcuts
* [https://addons.mozilla.org/en-US/firefox/addon/adblock-plus/ Adblock Plus :: Add-ons for Firefox]
* [http://adblockplus.org/en/filters#basic Writing Adblock Plus filters]
* [http://www.siteadvisor.com/ McAfee SiteAdvisor Software -- Website Safety Ratings and Secure Search]
* [https://addons.mozilla.org/en-US/firefox/addon/wot-safe-browsing-tool/ Web of Trust - Safe Browsing Tool :: Add-ons for Firefox]
* [http://winhelp2002.mvps.org/hosts.htm Blocking Unwanted Parasites with a Hosts File]
* [http://userstyles.org/styles/42848 Google - Highlight harmful site alert - Themes and Skins for www.google - userstyles.org]
* [http://kb.mozillazine.org/Problematic_extensions Problematic extensions - MozillaZine Knowledge Base] (McAfee Site Advisor is listed as problematic, read information)
* My notes on extensions -- http://dmcritchie.mvps.org/firefox/firefox.htm#ext_table
* [http://dmcritchie.mvps.org/firefox/kws.htm Firefox Keyword Shortcuts] (and bookmarklets)
Just so you don't miss important information about Adblock Plus, be aware that it does nothing by itself -- it needs filters. Be sure to install the "EasyList (US)" filter subscription.
In your google search settings (preferences), you can filter adult content, but that is not phishing
* http://www.google.com/preferences?complete=0&hl=en
Phishing protection comes from your browser using collected phishing data -- not from the Google search itself where you might see a warning.
* (Google Chrome) http://www.google.com/support/chrome/bin/answer.py?answer=99020
* (Firefox) already covered what you need to set in security options
more
http://googleblog.blogspot.com/2011/06/ensuring-your-information-is-safe.html
''corrected to read Tools > Options > Security'' -
I downloaded the trial version of Final Cut Pro, but am unable to install it. This is the final name, 'FinalCutProTrial10.0.6.dmg.crdownload'.
What do I need to unzip it or install it?
Thank you. Rob-It says: There is no application set to open the document “FinalCutProTrial10.0.6.dmg.crdownload”,
when I try to click on the file. It has downloaded completely. -
I have an Airport Extreme which I'm using for a wireless network. (The wireless router is connected to a DSL modem.) Can I also plug in my iMac to one of the free ethernet ports on the Airport Extreme to connect to the Internet that way? Thank you.
Yes, you can.
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I am trying to move my library and playlists to a new computer by burning to CD's. However, I followed the directions by going to File and then Library - then they said to go to burn CD(s) - I DO NOT have that option for some reason. How do I do this? I have done the library sharing thing but I am getting rid of my primary computer and am afraid I will lose the library.
To move an iPhoto Library to a new machine:
Link the two Macs together: there are several ways to do this: Wireless Network,Firewire Target Disk Mode, Ethernet, or even just copy the Library to an external HD and then on to the new machine...
But however you do choose to link the two machines...
Simply copy the iPhoto Library from the Pictures Folder on the old Machine to the Pictures Folder on the new Machine.
Then hold down the option (or alt) key key and launch iPhoto. From the resulting menu select 'Choose Library'
and select the Library that you moved. That's it.
This moves photos, events, albums, books, keywords, slideshows and everything else.
Your first option didn't work because you imported one Library to another. Every version and thumbnail is imported like a distinct photo, you lose all your Albums, Keywords etc., the link between Original and Previews is destroyed, the non-destructive editing feature is ruined and so on. In summary: it's mess.
Your second option didn't work because you simply referenced her library on the old machine.
Regards
TD -
My circa 2007 iMac freezes up, and rainbow wheel appears when this happens. I know the computer is starting to get old but I can't afford a new one at this time and would love to continue using my Mac, but it's frustrating. Most of the time I ONLY have 1 thing open at a time, and keep my tabs down to a minimum. I bought this to do film editing on but with it acting like this I cannot do that. I know I need a ram upgrade (currently running 2 gb) and my OS is old, 10.5.8, but I think even with it being a bit outdated it should run better than this. Would a fresh install or OS upgrade resolve this? Or any other suggestions to keep this clunker chugging along for a little while longer?
How full is the hard drive?
Do you run any virus software or hard drive "cleaner" software like MacKeeper?
If your model is from 2007 you can install up to 6 GBs of RAM.
2 GBs is the barest of minimum RAM for OS X to run on.
Especially if doing video work. You simply do not have sufficient RAM.
Also OS X 10.5.8 Leopard support ended around 2009.
You could update to OS X 10.6 Snow Leopard, at least.
It is available on disc from the Apple store for U.S. $19.99.
I Would seriously upgrade your iMac's RAM to the max. 6 GBs before doing this.
Reliable Mac RAM can be purchase from online Mac RAM source Crucial memory or OWC ( also known as macsales).
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