One big question about glitches in my software if I install Lion or buy a new mac with Lion

I have 2009 Leopard I Mac. My bank now insists I have an Intel supported browser and more. Apple said Firefox will do it, but I need to upgrade to either Snow Leopard or Lion or buy a new I Mac with Mt. Lion installed. I read complaints about MP Navigator, Quicken and other software not working on SL or Lion..with my Canon printer..I am over 70 and legally blind, do all our accounting, taxes and correspondence with my I Mac including making DVD's, Cd's...and not able to figure out problems easily. Any suggestions on what I can do? I have to be able to access on=line banking, and also print check copies, etc. for our taxes.

Check out this link -
http://www.roaringapps.com.
You may be able to determine if the versions of your current 3rd party software will work.

Similar Messages

  • Questions about buying a new Mac Pro for 4k video editing.

    Hi everyone,
    I'm currently looking into buying a new mac pro and I have a few questions. I'm a filmmaker/freelance editor looking to get a system that can handle any/at least most 4k formats that I might throw at it, and will hopefully last me around 7 years or so, like my last mac pro has. I've saved up about $5,300 and am becoming more obsessed with getting it asap, but am willing to wait a bit and save up more if necessary. I also play the occasional elder scrolls or civilization game, and might run windows on the new system as well. So here are my questions:
    1. I've read rumors that a newer build could be released this year, with newer processors and graphics cards. Is there anything to point to when? I tend to buy things a month before a newer version is released, and I'd like to prevent myself from doing it this time around..
    Here's the Build I'm looking at:
    6 core
    2 D700s
    base ram to be upgraded myself to 32Gb (2x16Gb cards leaving 2 slots empty to expand to 64Gb later)
    512Gb-1Tb internal hd
    2. Should I be considering the 8 core? I'm not too excited about the additional $1500, but I want a system that will last.
    3. Is getting the two 16Gb chips of ram and leaving two slots empty a bad idea?
    4. I currently work with FCP studio 2 and love it. Not sure whether to go with FCP X, or adobe. Any thoughts?
    5. I'm not finding many deals for cheaper ram and hard drives. OWC's prices seem to be comparable to Mac's. I want to do the ram so I have room to upgrade to 64Gb later, but are there any hard drives out there that would make it worth upgrading it myself?
    I appreciate any insights you might have. I plan on getting a decent raid and 4k monitor in the next year or so, but for now just want a base system that will keep me editing and will be ready for 4k when I take that next step.

    The late 2013 Mc Pro uses Intel Xeon ECC processors (error correction), and as far as I know Intel has not announced any newer Intel Xeon processors than those in the late 2013 Mac Pro.  I would not expect to see an update to the 2013 Mac Pro until the end of 2015 at the earliest and probably later than that.
    If time is not an issue, then you should be quite happy with the 6 core 2013 Mac Pro.  It will do an excellent job with 4K video footage. And, yes, I would suggest getting the best raid system you can afford.  That is actually more important than processor speed since I/O is frequently the bottleneck when doing multi camera video or 4K video.
    I have the latest version of Adobe's Premiere Pro 2014  CC installed on my late 2013 Mac Pro and i have used it a bit without problems.  However, I find it much much slower to edit with than FCP X.  Also be advised that if you Google you will find several individuals on the Adobe Forums who purchased the late 2013 Mac Pro and have not been able to use it with Premiere Pro CC because of either a hardware incompatibility or software issues between Premiere Pro CC and BMD's Resolve.  It is quite possible that I have not experienced these problems because I have not made very demanding projects with Premiere Pro CC on my 2013 Mac Pro.
    I strongly recommend FCP X.  Apple released FCP X before it was ready, and many early users were unwilling to take the time to learn how to use this very different NLE which is not track based.  Apple has over the last 3 years since FCP X was released, issued more than 10 updates (all free), and the program is stable and blazingly fast.  I urge you to check out the FCP X training offered by Ripple Training and/or Larry Jordan. Both are inexpensive, and worth every cent.  Watch their training videos and you will be up to speed in FCP X in no time at all, and you will wish you had switched a long time ago.
    If you can afford the 1 TB of PCie internal flash storage on your Mac Pro, then by all means get it.  For me 1TB is well worth the cost.
    As far as editing 4K video, the format of the video will be important to the ease of editing.  For example, I am able to edit in its native format (XVAC S) several streams of 4K video form my Sony FDR-AX100 with no problems.  If I were editing Sony's XVAC format used in their professional 4K cameras, that might pose a problem that would require transcoding.  Similarly for other 4K formats. XVAC S is an easy format to edit natively because it is essentially a high bit rate h.264 format.
    Best of luck on whatever you decide to do, and happy editing.
    Tom

  • General questions on buying a new Mac...

    hey guys, i am looking to buy a new mac in the next year or so.  i currently have the powerbook g4 from when i went to school and its running very slow these days and i couldnt upgrade past leopard because of the processor.  anyways, im wondering what you guys think as far as laptops go, im not very savy when it comes to this stuff but it seems the macbook pro is the best of the best when it comes to laptops, especially as far as apple goes. 
    one of my main questions is about how far this laptop will take me, i was very upset about my powerbook not being able to go further than the leopard upgrade.  does apple offer anything as far as being able to upgrade for x amount of years?  its an expensive piece of equipment and im just wondering what the life expectancy is for something thats $2,500 lol.  is apple planning on unveiling a new macbook pro with an even newer processor that is gonna outdate the current intel based?   
    would i be better off buying the computer tower and monitor that way i can replace things if they get outdated?  i have no experience in that but i have heard that when it comes to upgrading a laptop its near impossible compared to a tower that you can open up and change things out?
    what do you guys think?  any tips would be great, im kinda torn because of the money and i wanna make sure im making the best investment i can and one that will last me as long as it possibly can.  like i said guys, im not up to date with tech news so if you guys can help me out i would appreciate it.
    thanks again

    gconley wrote:
    im wondering what you guys think as far as laptops go,
    Well there has been some changes, Intel processors with integrated graphics that are lousy in performance (scores only 11) and no dedicated video cards.
    So watch out the MBP your buying (usually the 13") doesn't have "only Intel HD 3000 graphics" or it will be hot and lousy at 3D games.
    The higher end 15" or 17" antiglare screens are your best options for longer use and performance (can 3D game online for about 1.5 years before a upgrade hobbles you) Score 35-45 on Cinebench, as they also have a dedicated video card and you can turn off Graphics Switching in Energy Saver to run off the video card all the time. (nice)
    seems the macbook pro is the best of the best when it comes to laptops, especially as far as apple goes.
    It's all that Apple carries now, no more MacBooks, unless you want to count the 13" MBP as a MacBook which it's more like that than a "Pro" machine.
    I'd advise the anti-glare screen option on the 15", so  you can see the screen anywhere like your present machine. The new ones with nicer looking glossy screens are a pain to use, may hurt your eyes, headaches etc.
    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_X0wo6dIsMU
    one of my main questions is about how far this laptop will take me
    MacBook Pro's now are lasting about 4 years with about daily use with care, lesser of course with no care.
    AppleCare is a must, so figure another 10% for that and tax. $100 case and a $100 external drive for backup (you really need two)
    does apple offer anything as far as being able to upgrade for x amount of years?
    No, you have to buy each new OS X version and upgrade all your third party software and go through lots of pains doing so.
    I can give you this expereince, your good to upgrade the OS 2x, after that you should stop.
    10.8 is being released this summer, I would wait a few months afterwards when it comes on new hardware, you will be glad you did. 10.7 is not working out right, 10.8 is going to fix things we hope.
    its an expensive piece of equipment and im just wondering what the life expectancy is for something thats $2,500 lol.
    4 years, $700 a year.
    is apple planning on unveiling a new macbook pro with an even newer processor that is gonna outdate the current intel based?
    We cant' speculate on future Apple hardware, but I gave my advice about 10.8 above.
    would i be better off buying the computer tower and monitor that way i can replace things if they get outdated?
    Yes that would be a much more cost effective method, however this is the problem.
    You would have to buy the MacPro Tower and you could change the hard drives, RAM and monitor, but you can't get any video card upgrades for them.
    Once your three year AppleCare ran out and your video card died, your bummed. So much for that plan.
    Also Apple has increased their OS X release cycle (like because 10.7 was so bad) but you don't get security updates unless your on the last two operating systems in circulation.
    So your 10.4 and 10.5 machines are currently insecure online, and 10.6 will also be when 10.8 is released this summer. So Apple gets you to force upgrade that way.
    what do you guys think?  any tips would be great, im kinda torn because of the money and i wanna make sure im making the best investment i can and one that will last me as long as it possibly can.
    I'll give you my honest opinion being a lifelong Mac user.
    Get a Windows 7 64 bit 3D gaming tower, 4GB of RAM expandable to 8GB or even 16GB and a decent power supply.
    Why?
    1: Because Microsoft supports their OS version for 10 years with security and stability updates.
    2: Because you can get video card upgrades as well as hard drives, optical drives, RAM and external devices like monitors etc.
    3: You'll have more software to choose from, and especially 3D games.
    4: Microsoft provides free Security Essentials anti-malware,
    5: When you get the machine, you make System Restore Images, DVD's and boot disks to restore your own system pre-malware and immedialty Windows Update and make new ones.
    Case in point, my friends XP Tower has lasted him 10 years, he paid $1200 for it new, for $120 a year.
    Sure he's had the OS replaced a few times, I've done it for dinner once or twice. Others did it for a case of beer. Cant't beat that!
    In the last 10 years with Apple I have spent over $9,000 in their hardware for 3 computers that I've used myself, in fact I'm looking at my dead 4 year old 15" MBP right now which the video card failed a few months outside the 4 year recall notice.
    https://support.apple.com/kb/TS2377
    That's $900 a year and 2 of them are laptops, one was the PowerMac G5 that Apple decided they were not going to support the 10.5 OS anymore so it made a bad decision to keep it, despite it being almost as powerful as most Mac laptops today. I could have kept that one, but with no OS X support, what can I do?
    So if you toss $1600 into a 3D gaming tower, that's $160 a year verses $700 a year with the MBP AND you can upgrade it. You can replace the video card or hard drive or anything else that fails! Not so with a Mac.
    http://www.cbscores.com/index.php?sort=ogl&order=desc
    Let's face it, you and quite possible me now, are in not Apple's target market anymore, you need to save money and Apple no longer offers any longterm value like they used to.
    Microsoft has fixed Windows with Win 7, it's not that bad actually provided you get a good machine and a decent quality monitor. The security of Windows 7 is better than OS X now and on top of that, you can reinstall the entire boot drive yourself easily if you make advanced preparations.
    Also Win 7 doesn't look as bad as before, the Aero glass is pretty neat. It's made a lof of Windows users happy. Still though OS X is a much nicer OS that Windows, but the thing with Windows, it stays the same. Apple changes OS X almost constantly, 10.7 last summer, 10.8 this summer!!!
    So I know this is going against everything my avatar is, but I don't want you to throw your money away if you really need to hold on to it.
    I know times are not good, Apple has billions upon billions they don't need your money. Save your money and get what you need that just does the job.
    I don't drive around wreacking $200,000 sports cars and I don't expect you too neither.
    http://www.cpubenchmark.net/high_end_cpus.html

  • I'm buying a new MAC.  How many machines can you associate with one CS Cloud account?

    I'm buying a new MAC.  How many machines can you associate with one CS Cloud account?

    You can install the software on as many computers as you like.
    However you can only activate the software and use it on a maximum of two computers at any one time.

  • I am considering buying a new MAC laptop to run LOGIC for composition and band live/recording, but which one is best as I do not want to spend too much money? Does it have a line in and how do you monitor sound? Will I need adaptors and a interface?

    Can anybody help?
    I am considering buying a new MAC laptop to run LOGIC for composition and band live/recording, but which one is best as I do not want to spend too much money?
    Does it have a line in and how do you monitor sound?
    Will I need adaptors and an interface?
    Also, I am guessing as Logic only runs on MAC surely then they would not the best spec to recommend to run it?
    I see all the upgrades as additional memory or a faster process?
    Is a retina screen necessary, and why flash based storage against a 1TB hard drive, and a i5 instead of an i7
    The main reason for this purchase is to play live and use backing tracks and record found sounds and make creative songs.
    I hope you can provide some valuable feedback, as I am a longtime MAC user and see upgrades and changes happen regularly but the most important thing is the songs not the equipment.
    I have £500 already and willing to add another 500 to 700 pounds, then software extra.

    Can anybody help?
    I am considering buying a new MAC laptop to run LOGIC for composition and band live/recording, but which one is best as I do not want to spend too much money?
    Does it have a line in and how do you monitor sound?
    Will I need adaptors and an interface?
    Also, I am guessing as Logic only runs on MAC surely then they would not the best spec to recommend to run it?
    I see all the upgrades as additional memory or a faster process?
    Is a retina screen necessary, and why flash based storage against a 1TB hard drive, and a i5 instead of an i7
    The main reason for this purchase is to play live and use backing tracks and record found sounds and make creative songs.
    I hope you can provide some valuable feedback, as I am a longtime MAC user and see upgrades and changes happen regularly but the most important thing is the songs not the equipment.
    I have £500 already and willing to add another 500 to 700 pounds, then software extra.

  • Is the retina display for the new mac book pro worth the extra cost? I'm buying a new mac book pro but not sure about the retina display.

    Is the retina display for the new mac book pro worth the extra cost? I'm buying a new mac book pro but not sure about the retina display.

    There is a US$10 adapter from old power adapter to new MacBook Pro.
    MagSafe to MagSafe 2 Converter
    The MagSafe to MagSafe 2 Converter allows you to use the MagSafe connector on your LED Cinema Display, Thunderbolt Display, or MagSafe Power Adapter to charge your MagSafe 2-equipped Mac computer.
    For battery life, check the latest Software Update for the fix for most problems.

  • My Mac was stolen and I've bought a new one. But how do I transfer my songs off my iPod over to my new Mac? Most are from CD's (not purchased from iTunes)

    My Mac was stolen and I've bought a new one. But how do I transfer my songs off my iPod over to my new Mac? Most are from CD's (not purchased from iTunes)
    i see that I can buy a $39 program but I want to avoid an extra cost.  Already bummed I had to shell out an unexpected $1,500
    thanks in advance

    Hello hayesh,
    Thanks for using Apple Support Communities.
    For more information on this, take a look at:
    How to use your iPod to move your music to a new computer
    http://support.apple.com/kb/ht1329
    Best of luck,
    Mario

  • My old IMAC is a few years old.  Just bought a new one OX 10.8.2.  The old one is  OS X 10.5.8.  Can I install Lion or ewuivalent and then synch both on ICLOUD.  Or is there another way to synch the two computers.

    My old IMAC is a few years old.  Just bought a new one OS X 10.8.2.  The old one is  OS X 10.5.8.  Can I install Lion or equivalent and then synch both on ICLOUD.  Or is there another way to synch the two computers.

    You can use Migration Assistant in Applications > Utilities to get all your files from one iMac to the other. If you want to upgrade your older model to MtLion you need to have at least a mid 2007 Intel Core 2 Duo with a bare minimum of 2GB of RAM. Then you need to buy the Snow Leopard 10.6.3 DVD , update with
    Mac OS X 10.6.8 Update Combo v1.1
    at which point you can access the App Store to purchase and install MtLion 10.8 where you would then have access to the iCloud.

  • I want to known if i can buy a new mac book using my old one?

    I want to buy a new mac book, and i need if can use my old one to have a discount?

    you can - it's calle Apple Recycling Program - they would give you a gift card with x amount of $$ in it and you can use it towards the purcase of you new macbook.
    i do however, suggest you sell your old macbook privately so you can get more for it.
    in any event, here's the link for Apple Recycling Program
    http://www.apple.com/recycling/gift-card/

  • One last question about Apple IDs

    I thought id asked the lot but there is one last question. How does one delete an Apple ID?
    Many thanks again
    Anthony

    Hello Again Anthony!
    "How does one delete an Apple ID?"
    You can't.
    After you quit using an account, it's posts, will be archived. What that means is, that if there are no additional responses in the Threads they reside in, the Topics will get continually pushed down on the Topics list. After a certain amount of time, maybe 2 to 6 months, the Threads will be locked, so no responses can be entered. But the Threads will not disappear.
    Threads in heavily trafficked Forums, may be archived more rapidly than those in areas, with less activity.
    The Topics that you started using the account, will show your the Alias, in the Author field of a main forum page, but eventually, readers will have to keep going to the succeeding pages to view them.
    If someone were to do a Discussions Search, using these parameters:
    Restrict by Category or Forum: All Categories
    Restrict by Date Range: All
    Restrict by Username: Your Old Alias
    all of your posts, created since about 11/13/05, would be found.
    ali b

  • One more question about upgrading HD

    EVeryone was really helpful last time, I have one final question:
    Does the name matter for the HD?
    I have bought my HD, used SuperDuper and am actually already working off the new HD via Firewire.
    Does it matter what I NAME the new Drive? When I used Super Duper I called it "New Startup". The current HD is called "Macintosh HD". Is this a problem?
    Thanks guys!

    @Niel: How about localized chars (ä, ß, î, etc.) and such ones that may have a special technical meaning (like /, *, -) ?

  • One more question about "snap to" points in audio objects

    sorry, one more question people.............. is there a way to set a "snap to" point in an audio region? Can I have logic set a point, or an "anchor" within an audio region that would coincide with the cursor. Once I get the cursor to a bar or a beat, is there a command that would allow a "snap to" point to be created in an audio object? That way I could clean up any "noise" or "chatter" at the beginning of an audio bounce or any audio object, and still have no problem pasting it all over my arrangement. I'm sure it's in here somewhere, but can't find it in the manual..
    thanks again!!!

    The anchor point in an audio region can be moved to wherever you want it to be. Let's say you recorded a loud piano bass note and afterwards you trimmed the file so that the attack of this sound happens right at the beginning of the audio region. Your anchor point will now coincide with the begnning of that region. This means that you can place that audio at, say, bar 37 and it's guaranteed that the attack of that sound will play exactly at bar 37. In this case anchor point = position of audio region in the Arrange Window.
    Even though you haven't played a MIDI note into the song in order to place this audio region, an "event" is generated for this sound which can be viewed in a special version of the Event Editor which shows the position of all audio regions in the arrangement. Access this by simply clicking on a blank area of the Arrange window and then opening the Event Editor.
    So let's say this sound is positioned at bar 37. Open the Event Editor (as described above) and you'll see an event at 37 1 1 1 and the name of that audio region to its right. In this case, the event's position = the start of the sound file = the position of the anchor within that sound file. If you changed the position of that event to 38, or 109, or 3, that audio region will be "triggered" at any of those positions. That sound will always "attack" on a downbeat.
    Now let's say you reversed that pinao note in order to create a dramatic swell into a section of your song. (Open the sample editor and use the Reverse function). At this point, the anchor point is still positioned at the beginning of the file! Play back the sequence (from our bar 37) and the audio will play back from bar 37, only backwards this time; the peak of that piano note will be at some point later than 37.
    So let's say you wanted to position this sound so that it hits exactly on the downbeat of bar 37. How do you do it? Well, you could always slide the audio file in the Arrange Window and try to line up the attack of the audio waveform with the downbeat of bar 37, but there's an easier way...
    Open the sample editor and move the anchor point to the end of the file, coinciding with the peak of the waveform (the piano's attack is now at the end because we reversed the audio). Next, close the sample editor window, click on a blank area in the Arrange Window and open the Event Editor. You'll see that this audio region is still positioned at bar 37, but the actual beginning of the sound file now starts before bar 37. Now when you play back, Logic will start playing that sound file before bar 37, but the audio's peak will be lined up at bar 37.

  • I bought a new mac with software installed and my username will not update from another account?

    I recently bought an new power mac with Logic Pro and Final Cut Pro Installed.
    When I updated to the new OS X operating system, they need to be updated as well. And will no longer work.
    But it says it is on another account. Not sure what account. How do I find out what account they are on? How or can I do I move them into my other account?
    The Power Mac is registered to the account I am logged in on.

    Before buying a second-hand computer, you should have run Apple Diagnostics or the Apple Hardware Test, whichever is applicable.
    The first thing to do after buying the computer is to erase the internal drive and install a clean copy of OS X. You—not the original owner—must do that. Changes made by Apple over the years have made this seemingly straightforward task very complex.
    How you go about it depends on the model, and on whether you already own another Mac. If you're not sure of the model, enter the serial number on this page. Then find the model on this page to see what OS version was originally installed.
    It's unsafe, and may be unlawful, to use a computer with software installed by a previous owner.
    1. If you don't own another Mac
    a. If the machine shipped with OS X 10.4 or 10.5, you need a boxed and shrink-wrapped retail Snow Leopard (OS X 10.6) installation disc from the Apple Store or a reputable reseller—not from eBay or anything of the kind. If the machine is very old and has less than 1 GB of memory, you'll need to add more in order to install 10.6. Preferably, install as much memory as it can take, according to the technical specifications.
    b. If the machine shipped with OS X 10.6, you need the installation media that came with it: gray installation discs, or a USB flash drive for a MacBook Air. You should have received the media from the original owner, but if you didn't, order replacements from Apple. A retail disc, or the gray discs from another model, will not work.
    To start up from an optical disc or a flash drive, insert it, then restart the computer and hold down the C key at the startup chime. Release the key when you see the gray Apple logo on the screen.
    c. If the machine shipped with OS X 10.7 or later, you don't need media. It should start up in Internet Recovery mode when you hold down the key combination option-command-R at the startup chime. Release the keys when you see a spinning globe.
    d. Some 2010-2011 models shipped with OS X 10.6 and received a firmware update after 10.7 was released, enabling them to use Internet Recovery. If you have one of those models, you can't reinstall 10.6 even from the original media, and Internet Recovery will not work either without the original owner's Apple ID. In that case, contact Apple Support, or take the machine to an Apple Store or another authorized service provider to have the OS installed.
    2. If you do own another Mac
    If you already own another Mac that was upgraded in the App Store to the version of OS X that you want to install, and if the new Mac is compatible with it, then you can install it. Use Recovery Disk Assistant to prepare a USB device, then start up the new Mac from it by holding down the C key at the startup chime. Alternatively, if you have a Time Machine backup of OS X 10.7.3 or later on an external hard drive (not a Time Capsule or other network device), you can start from that by holding down the option key and selecting it from the row of icons that appears. Note that if your other Mac was never upgraded in the App Store, you can't use this method.
    3. Partition and install OS X
    a. If you see a lock screen when trying to start up from installation media or in Recovery mode, then a firmware password was set by the previous owner, or the machine was remotely locked via iCloud. You'll either have to contact the owner or take the machine to an Apple Store or another service provider to be unlocked. You may be asked for proof of ownership.
    b. Launch Disk Utility and select the icon of the internal drive—not any of the volume icons nested beneath it. In the  Partition tab, select the default options: a GUID partition table with one data volume in Mac OS Extended (Journaled) format. This operation will permanently remove all existing data on the drive.
    c. An unusual problem may arise if all the following conditions apply:
              OS X 10.7 or later was installed by the previous owner
              The startup volume was encrypted with FileVault
              You're booted in Recovery mode (that is, not from a 10.6 installation disc)
    In that case, you won't be able to unlock the volume or partition the drive without the FileVault password. Ask for guidance or see this discussion.
    d. After partitioning, quit Disk Utility and run the OS X Installer. If you're installing a version of OS X acquired from the App Store, you will need the Apple ID and password that you used. When the installation is done, the system will automatically restart into the Setup Assistant, which will prompt you to transfer the data from another Mac, its backups, or from a Windows computer. If you have any data to transfer, this is usually the best time to do it.
    e. Run Software Update and install all available system updates from Apple. To upgrade to a major version of OS X newer than 10.6, get it from the Mac App Store. Note that you can't keep an upgraded version that was installed by the original owner. He or she can't legally transfer it to you, and without the Apple ID you won't be able to update it in Software Update or reinstall, if that becomes necessary. The same goes for any App Store products that the previous owner installed—you have to repurchase them.
    4. Other issues
    a. If the original owner "accepted" the bundled iLife applications (iPhoto, iMovie, and Garage Band) in the App Store so that he or she could update them, then they're irrevocably linked to that Apple ID and you won't be able to download them without buying them. Reportedly, Mac App Store Customer Service has sometimes issued redemption codes for these apps to second owners who asked.
    b. If the previous owner didn't deauthorize the computer in the iTunes Store under his Apple ID, you wont be able to  authorize it immediately under your ID. In that case, you'll either have to wait up to 90 days or contact iTunes Support.
    c. When trying to create a new iCloud account, you might get a failure message: "Account limit reached." Apple imposes a lifetime limit of three iCloud account setups per device. Erasing the device does not reset the limit. You can still use an iCloud account that was created on another device, but you won't be able to create a new one. Contact iCloud Support for more information. The setup limit doesn't apply to Apple ID accounts used for other services, such as the iTunes and Mac App Stores, or iMessage. You can create as many of those accounts as you like.

  • About to buy a new Mac Pro

    A few months ago I posted a very simlar question, but can't find it anymore.
    I'm ready to purchase a new Mac Pro, now I have a 2008 8 Core 2.8GHz with 10 gig ram and was looking at the latest 8 core with a lesser speed of 2.4. GHz and cannot find a benchmark comparison of those two models. The closest I found was at Barefeat's site, where it show a chart with the difference of 6 seconds exporting 50 JPGs out of Aperture, 68 seconds on the new 8 core and 62 seconds on my 2008. My opinion is that the difference doesn't worth a $3,500 dollars purchase, unless there are numerous advantages I'm overlooking.
    Another idea was to double the ram on mine and get a new video card, planing to keep my 2008 as a server in case I buy a new one.
    Need advice and suggestions, making a decision this weekend before something else comes up and spend the money . As I said, purchasing a new one is not an issue, just want to make sure is worth it.

    Mac Pro 2009 and later have Multi-Threading and improved memory, so their specs for compute power are near double what 2008 and previous models were:
    Primate Labs has posted Geekbench results for all the Mac Pro models since 2006. Here are some of the numbers in 32-bi/64-bit modes:
    2.0 GHz 4-core 2006, 4011/4445
    2.66 GHz 4-core 2006, 5178/5865
    2.8 GHz 4-core 2008, 5650/6456
    3.0 GHz 4-core 2006, 5768/6567
    2.66 GHz 4-core 2009, 8265/9226
    2.8 GHz 4-core 2010, 8629/9723
    2.93 GHz 4-core 2009, 9072/10072
    2.8 GHz 8-core 2008, 9105/10523
    3.0 GHz 8-core 2007, 9172/10783
    3.0 GHz 8-core 2008, 9460/11153
    3.2 GHz 4-core 2010, 9829/10279
    3.33 GHz 4-core 2009, x/11475
    3.2 GHz 8-core 2008, 10108/11807
    3.33 GHz 8-core 2009, 10304/11476
    2.26 GHz 8-core 2009, 11831/13323
    2.4 GHz 8-core 2010, 12722/14083
    3.33 GHz 6-core 2010, 14049/15781
    2.66 GHz 8-core 2009, 14330/16034
    2.93 GHz 8-core 2009, 15529/17608
    2.66 GHz 12-core 2010, 20226/22733
    2.93 GHz 12-core 2010, 21661/24333
    from: http://www.lowendmac.com/deals/best-mac-pro-prices.html
    This chart shows that to EQUAL what you have now, buy a 2.93GHz FOUR-Core 2009 or later.
    The real "sweet spot" in the current offerings is the six-core at only 1.5 times the entry models instead of 2x or 3x. (It's a build-to-order of the four-core.)
    In case of a tie, always choose more MegaHertz over more processors.

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