Onscreen manager

Hi! I just got my lenovo l220x and there's a problem using onscreen manager. Program installs fine and it detects my display but but the toolbar has only optionbutton and aboutbutton. Should there be some buttons for configuring colors,gamma etc.? Thanks for your help!

1. Download and install the latest version from here
2. If you are still only seeing the Option+About button, click the About button and post the Model number and Manufactured date

Similar Messages

Lenovo thinkvision image rotation software

When I rotate my monitor the image doesnt rotate.
Anyone know how to slove this or if there is some software out there?

welcome to the forum!
which display do you own? have you installed the OnScreen Manager software found on the CD included with the display?
here is the OSM software guide:
ftp://ftp.software.ibm.com/pc/pccbbs/options/lenovo_onscreen_manager_user_guide.pdf
ThinkStation C20
ThinkPad X1C · X220 · X60T · s30 · 600

Yoga 2 Pro stuck volume, missing cursor, onscreen keyboard unusable

I'm having several issues with a Yoga 2 Pro laptop running Windows 8.1 that's about a year old.
1) Volume is stuck at 0. I can raise the volume, but it automatically lowers back down to zero, as if the volume-down key is stuck. The volume indicator is always onscreen.
2) Cursor is missing, however I can still right click/left click. Also, the cursor will reappear when I uninstall the Synaptic touchpad drivers.
3) The onscreen touch keyboard is unusable. I can click on the icon and it pops up, but it immediatly goes back down.
4) Side screen charms won't stay on screen (example: pressing the F10 key or project screen the side menu pops in but immediately pops out, similar to the keyboard). Also if I swipe in from the right and try to use anything (devices, settings, etc.) it does not respond
5) Pressing the start key doesn't bring it to the start screen, but holding it down for a few seconds does.
The above problems still exist in safe mode.I'm thinking it's a hardware issue or a bad connection of some kind. I've tried:
1) Removing/reinstalling various drivers (touchpad, audio, graphics)
2) Disabling services (YMC comes up often when looking at trackpad problems, but this hasn't worked for me)
3) Uninstalled/reinstalled programs (Energy Management, Transitions, etc.)
4) Did a complete factory reset at one point, had no effect.
I've had the problem a couple times before, and one thing that DID work was to hold down the power button for ten seconds while the computer was off, then let it reboot. Unfortunately that solution is no longer working. The threads I've linked below have been the closest I've found to a problem like this, but neither of their solutions worked for me.
https://forums.lenovo.com/t5/Yoga-Flex-Laptops-and/Yoga-13-Volume-Control-Issues/td-p/976589
https://forums.lenovo.com/t5/Yoga-Flex-Laptops-and/Yoga-2-Pro-Problem-Volume-Touch-Touch-Keyboard-no...
Any help would be much appreciated! Definitely affecting my usability of this otherwise wonderful machine.

Update in case anyone else comes across a similar problem: I ended up sending my laptop into warranty, and it came back a week later working completely. No idea what the problem, cause, or fix was, although they didn't replace any major parts (battery, cable, cpu, fan, hard drive, keyboard, touch pad, display, memory, motherboard...going off the list they sent back, none of those were replaced), so I'm not sure what to think. Not even a factory reset. I'd love to know what the issue was, in case it comes up again but am happy that my laptop is once again functioning in either case!

How do I stop the onscreen keyboard from popping up when I click on a text box?

I have a yoga 2 pro and the onscreen keyboard is irritating. How do I stop it from popping up every time I touch the screen? I am only touching the screen to get to the spot where I want to type--- I don't want the onscreen keyboard.
Sometimes it obscures the screen so I can't get to the right spot. Usually it disappears when I start typing, but sometimes I'm not even trying to type-- I'm trying to select something and I can't see it any more because the keyboard has popped up. I close the keyboard to get it out of the way, but it pops up when I try to touch the screen again. So I can never get to the spot I want unless I absolutely hit the exact spot on the first try. It happened even while typing this. I wanted to touch a certain spot in the paragraph, but then the onscreen keyboard popped up and I couldn't see the paragraph any more.
Thanks,

Hoov wrote:
Did you turn off any of the Lenovo software?
I closed a random McAfee process via the task manager in an attempt to stop the notification from popping up every ten minutes telling me to restart.
I also deleted a lot of the tiles from the colorful windows screen. I think some of them were Lenovo apps. They all seemed to be for some specific purpose though, that I knew I would not use. I have forgotten what they were. I did not delete many-- only a few that I knew right off that I would never use. Could that have affected something?

W510: the password manager is no longer active

Recently, I had to restore the OS, and afterward I noticed two changes:
> The ThinkVantage Password Manager was no longer active, meaning that it no longer prompted me for passwords.
> The fingerprint icon changed.
Any ideas as to what I can do to get the Password Manager working again?

iForgot iCloud Password
Alternatives for Help Resetting Security Questions and/or Rescue Mail
     1. If you have a valid rescue email address, then use this procedure:
         Rescue email address and how to reset Apple ID security questions.
     2. Fill out and submit this form. Select the topic, Account Security. You must
         have a Rescue Email to use this option.
     3. This is the only option if you do not already have a valid Rescue Email.
         These are telephone numbers for contacting Apple Support in your country.
         Apple ID- Contacting Apple for help with Apple ID account security. Select
         the appropriate country and call. Ask to speak to the Account Security Team.
     4. Account security issues almost always require you to speak directly to an
         Apple representative to securely establish your identity as the account holder.
         You can set it up so that Apple calls you, either immediately or at a time
         convenient to you.
            1. Go to www.apple.com/support.
            2. Choose Contact Support and click Contact Us.
            3. Choose Other Apple ID Topics and choose the appropriate topic for
                your issue.
            4. Follow the onscreen instructions.
         Note: If you have already forgotten your security questions, then you cannot
         set up a rescue email address in order to reset them. You must set up
         the rescue email address beforehand.
Your Apple ID: Manage My Apple ID.
                        Apple ID- All about Apple ID security questions.

Color management in Photoshop Elements...

Hello all
I know this is an Apple forum, but I also know many of you use Photoshop Elements as well, and I think there is a wealth information here.
So, I am very perplexed about something in PSE. I currently have PSE3 for Mac (although the version should not matter for my question).
My question has to do with the color settings in PSE preferences. As you know, one can choose No Color Mgt., Limited Color Mgt. = sRGB, or Full Color Mgt. = Adobe RGB. When I choose full color mgt., overall tones are VERY red. When choosing limited color mgt., colors are slightly red, and no color mgt., colors are fairly neutral. This is all by default. I know how to clean up the color casts, but for general printing, where should I be? I typically only print 4X6 or occasionally 8X10, nothing professionally. When printing, what is the ideal, or preferred Source Space? I have found that if the source space is the same as how the image is tagged, things look pretty good. I also keep the Print Space set to my monitor settings which is the iMac profile. I suppose the issue is that I do not want to have to constantly correct the reddish tones for every photo I manipulate in PSE, although I typically do.
So my basic question is this: What settings are you using in the PSE print dialog box that give you the best looking prints, i.e., source space, print space? How do you color manage you photos? And, what are your color settings in preferences?
Many thanks in advance…

mikwen:
If you compare the sRGB and Adobe RGB color profiles with ColorSync Utility you'll see that the Adobe profile is much wider. I understand it is used for high end CMYK printing or similar. The Adobe profile gives me a much darker onscreen image. Haven't printed with it in quite a while so don't remember what the output was.
Apple uses the sRGB profile in their books and other printed products. So I've setup PSE to use the sRGB profile and set my monitor to sRGB but with a 2.2 gamma. That seems to work for me.
I don't know which camera you have or what color profile it embeds but the Canon's, and others, have a camera profile that is very close to the sRGB. If you installed the software that came with your camera it probably added the camera's profile to the system and you can view it with ColorSync Utility.
Do you Twango?
TIP: For insurance against the iPhoto database corruption that many users have experienced I recommend making a backup copy of the Library6.iPhoto database file and keep it current. If problems crop up where iPhoto suddenly can't see any photos or thinks there are no photos in the library, replacing the working Library6.iPhoto file with the backup will often get the library back. By keeping it current I mean backup after each import and/or any serious editing or work on books, slideshows, calendars, cards, etc. That insures that if a problem pops up and you do need to replace the database file, you'll retain all those efforts. It doesn't take long to make the backup and it's good insurance.
I've written an Automator workflow application (requires Tiger), iPhoto dB File Backup, that will copy the selected Library6.iPhoto file from your iPhoto Library folder to the Pictures folder, replacing any previous version of it. You can download it at Toad's Cellar. Be sure to read the Read Me pdf file.

Color management detective needed!

I need help with some color management issues I'm having.
I've noticed that RAW images imported into Aperture (both 1.0.1 and 1.1) look very different than those imported into PS2 via ACR. I've been told that this is simply a result of the different conversion algorithims each program uses.
However, since I don't see a lot of discussion about that here I began to wonder if the differences I see between PS2 and Aperture are unusual. Also, I've noticed that when I export a RAW file from Aperture or PS2 as a JPEG, the colors of the resulting files look slightly different than they did before export (no adjustments were made in either program). Finally, when I upload the exported JPEGs to a website, the colors change once again!
This is very frustrating, because I spend a lot of time adjusting the image and finessing the colors... only to see it significantly altered when I put it on the web. I'd like to better understand what's happening here and have more control over the process.
So I've created a website with various examples of what I'm talking about. I imported the same RAW file into Aperture and PS2 without adjustments. Then I used OS X's Grab application to take a screen shot of how the image appears in each program. Then I exported the image as a JPEG from both PS2 and Aperture, using Adobe RGB as the embedded profile in both cases. (Note: my monitor profile is a custom profile created by EyeOne) Then I uploaded the JPEGs to a website I often display photos on, and then took a screen shot of how both the Aperture-exported and PS2-exported images appear on the web.
Please look at http://web.mac.com/chriskresser/iWeb/Site/Last%20Roll.html
So, my questions are:
1. Why does the color vary so dramatically between Aperture and PS2? Is this normal, i.e. do you experience the same thing? Is there something I can do about it?
2. Why do the exported JPEGs look different than their RAW master's? Again, is this normal and is there anything I can do about it?
3. Why do the JPEGs uploaded to the web look different than the JPEGs opened in Preview or PS2?
I've tried to standardize my color workspaces as much as possible, but I'm not sure I've done it correctly. In Aperture, onscreen proofing is off and I'm just using the default colorspace (which I understand is a wide-gamut RGB?). In PS2 I am using Adobe RGB as the working colorspace. My monitor profile is the custom calibrated Eye-One profile.
I really appreciate any help you can offer. I'm pulling my hair out trying to get this straight.
Thanks,
Chris

Thanks to everyone for helping me figure this out.
Let me make sure I understand. In Aperture, when I go to export a JPEG for web use or printing from another application with my home inkjet I select sRGB as the color space.
In PS2, I use Adobe RGB as my working color space, but when I save a JPEG for the web, I change the profile to sRGB before exporting. Do I use the "Edit>Convert to profile..." command for this? Or should I be using sRGB as my working color space in PS2 since most of my output is for the web and home inkjet? (There are occasionally times I send files to a printer for output, though).
The Aperture RAW and PS2 RAW look significantly different on my monitor too, not just on the web. I'm using the default ACR settings - do you think they need to be customized for my camera? I see what you are saying... the ACR RAW does look much brighter than the Aperture version and kind of washed out. Not sure how to fix that though...

Need help understanding profiles and color management

I made the big leap from inexpensive inkjets to:
1 Epson 3800 Standard
2 Spyder3Studio
I have a Mac Pro Quad, Aperture, PS3, etc.
I have a steep learning curve ahead, here's what I've done:
1 Read a lot of books, watched tutorials, etc.
2 Calibrated the monitor
3 Calibrated the printer several times and created .icc profiles
What I've found:
1 The sample print produced by Spyder3Print, using the profile I created with color management turned off in the print dialog, looks very good.
2 When I get into Aperture, and apply the .icc profile I created in the proofing profile with onscreen proofing, the onscreen image does not change appreciably compared with the no proof setting. It gets slightly darker
3 When I select File>Print image, select the profile I created, turn off color management and look a the resulting preview image it looks much lighter and washed out than the onscreen image with onscreen proofing turned on.
4 When I print the image, it looks the same as was shown in the print preview...light and washed out, which is much different than what is shown in edit mode.
5 When I open PS3 with onscreen soft-proofing, the onscreen image is light and washed out...just like displayed in PS3 preview. If I re-edit the image to look OK onscreen, and print with the profile and color management turned off, the printed image looks OK.
So, why am I confused?
1 In the back of my simplistic and naive mind, I anticipated that in creating a custom printer profile I would only need to edit a photo once, so it looks good on the calibrated screen, and then a custom printer profile will handle the work to print a good looking photo. Different profiles do different translations for different printers/papers. However, judging by the PS work, it appears I need to re-edit a photo for each printer/paper I encounter...just doesn't seem right.
2 In Aperture, I'm confused by the onscreen proofing does not present the same image as what I see in the print preview. I'm selecting the same .icc profile in both locations.
I tried visiting with Spyder support, but am not able to explain myself well enough to help them understand what I'm doing wrong.
Any help is greatly appreciated.

Calibrated the printer several times and created .icc profiles
You have understand that maintaining the colour is done by morphing the colourants, and you have understood that matching the digital graphic display (which is emissive) to the print from the digital graphic printer (which is reflective) presupposes a studio lighting situation that simulates the conditions presupposed in the mathematical illuminant model for media independent matching. Basically, for a display-to-print match you need to calibrate and characterise the display to something like 5000-55000 kelvin. There are all sorts of arguments surrounding this, and you will find your way through them in time, but you now have the gist of the thing.
So far so good, but what of the problem posed by the digital graphic printer? If you are a professional photographer, you are dependent on your printer for contract proofing. Your prints you can pass to clients and to printers, but your display you cannot. So this is critical.
The ICC Specification was published at DRUPA Druck und Papier in Düsseldorf in May 1995 and ColorSync 2 Golden Master is on the WWDC CD for May 1995. Between 1995 and 2000 die reine Lehre said to render your colour patch chart in the raw condition of the colour device.
The problem with this is that in a separation the reflectance of the paper (which is how you get to see the colours of the colourants laid down on top of the paper) and the amount of colourant (solid and combinations of tints) gives you the gamut.
By this argument, you would want to render the colour patch chart with the most colourant, but what if the most colourant produces artifacts? A safer solution is to have primary ink limiting as part of the calibration process prior to rendering of the colour patch chart.
You can see the progression e.g. in the BEST RIP which since 2002 has been owned by EFI Electronics for Imaging. BEST started by allowing access to the raw colour device, with pooling problems and whatnot, but then introduced a primary ink limiting and linearisation.
The next thing you need to know is what colour test chart to send to the colour device, depending on whether the colour device is considered an RGB device or a CMYK device. By convention, if the device is not driven by a PostScript RIP it is considered an RGB device.
The colour patch chart is not tagged, meaning that it is deviceColor and neither CIEBased colour or ICCBased colour. You need to keep your colour patch chart deviceColor or you will have a colour characterisation of a colour managed conversion. Which is not what you want.
If the operating system is colour managed through and through, how do you render a colour test chart without automatically assigning a source ICC profile for the colourant model (Generic RGB Profile for three component, Generic CMYK Profile for four component)?
The convention is that no colour conversion occurs if the source ICC device profile and the destination ICC device profile are identical. So if you are targetting your inkjet in RGB mode, you open an RGB colourant patch chart, set the source ICC profile for the working space to the same as the destination ICC profile for the device, and render as deviceColor.
You then leave the rendered colourant test chart to dry for one hour. If you measure a colourant test chart every ten minutes through the first hour, you may find that the soluble inkjet inks in drying change colour. If you wait, you avoid this cause of error in your characterisation.
As you will mainly want to work with loose photographs, and not with photographs placed in pages, when you produce a contract proof using Absolute Colorimetric rendering from the ICC profile for the printing condition to the ICC profile for your studio printer, here's a tip.
Your eyes, the eyes of your client, and the eyes of the prepress production manager will see the white white of the surrounding unprinted margins of the paper, and will judge the printed area of the paper relative to that.
If, therefore, your untrimmed contract proof and the contract proof from Adobe InDesign or QuarkPress, or a EFI or other proofing RIP, are placed side by side in the viewing box your untrimmed contract proof will work as the visual reference for the media white.
The measured reference for the media white is in the ICC profile for the printing condition, to be precise in the WTPT White Point tag that you can see by doubleclicking the ICC profile in the Apple ColorSync Utility. This is the lightness and tint laid down on proof prints.
You, your client and your chosen printer will get on well if you remember to set up your studio lighting, and trim the blank borders of your proof prints. (Another tip: set your Finder to neutral gray and avoid a clutter of white windows, icons and so forth in the Finder when viewing.)
So far, so good. This leaves the nittygritty of specific ICC profiling packages and specific ICC-enabled applications. As for Aperture, do not apply a gamma correction to your colourant patch chart, or to colour managed printing.
As for Adobe applications, which you say you will be comparing with, you should probably be aware that Adobe InDesign CS3 has problems. When targetting an RGB printing device, the prints are not correctly colour managed, but basically bypass colour management.
There's been a discussion on the Apple ColorSync Users List and on Adobe's fora, see the two threads below.
Hope this helps,
Henrik Holmegaard
technical writer
References:
http://www.adobeforums.com/webx?14@@.59b52c9b/0
http://lists.apple.com/archives/colorsync-users/2007/Nov/msg00143.html

Clips not coming up in Media Manager

I must be missing something... I am backing up a project with Media Manager. I select the desired project's tab. I hit cmd-A. I open MM, it scans for media. When it opens, the summary shows n/a in both Original and Modified. However, if I choose any particular clip or sequence, it shows up in Original and Modified. Also, with other projects, it behaves as expected.
thanks,
Brett
Message was edited by: Brett Nelson

I have a similar problem...but I don't get the first few minutes of video. On my iMac screen, I get that the camera is recognized and blue screen. It tells me onscreen when I am "playing" or "seeking forward" etc., but when I try to "import" though, the "import" button no longer works (it worked 1/2 hour before this). I've plugged and unplugged the firewire cords, turned off the camera, checked the tape, etc. To me, it seems to be a software issue. I just tried it on our Intel Macbook Pro and I have no problem importing the video.
The problem seemed to happen after I imported about 8 minutes of video this morning and then when I stopped it gave me a message I've never seen before (something about "organizing video clips") which like the "letterboxing" message seemed to take forever. Under a time crunch, I attempted to quit iMovie during this organizing process. It didn't happen right away, so I went on to do something else. When I returned, it gave me the options of quitting, saving or canceling. I opted to cancel and continue to import. At that point, however, the import button no longer worked.
I work at a university, so I don't have the install disks myself and wonder if anyone else has had this problem and been able to work around it without reinstalling the software. (I can contact our IT people, but it's a real pain and very time consuming to get them here to reinstall...plus, they are not "Mac people" so they like to give me a lot of c.r.a.p. about how PCs don't have this or that issue...sigh).
Thanks!
Sally

How to turn on the wi-fi on x121e without Thinkpad power management driver.

The onscreen function key features generally depend on that driver. The thing is on my netbook the driver causes USB devices to fail after a few hibernations. Anybody in the know? Thanks.

Power Manager is the only software to view wireless device setting.
Install new version of Power Manager and also update the BIOS for the USB issue
Download Power Manager software from the mentioned below web link.
http://download.lenovo.com/ibmdl/pub/pc/pccbbs/mobiles/8mu417ww.exe
BIOS update can be download from the mentioned below web link.
http://download.lenovo.com/ibmdl/pub/pc/pccbbs/mobiles/8quj08us.exe
Best Regards,
Tanuj
Did someone help you today? Press the star on the left to thank them with a Kudo!
If you find a post helpful and it answers your question, please mark it as an "Accepted Solution".! This will help the rest of the Community with similar issues identify the verified solution and benefit from it.
Follow @LenovoForums on Twitter!

Touchsmart 9100 use onscreen keyboard ctrl+alt+del to login

I have a Touchsmart 9100 and I can't figure out how to ctrl+alt+del to login to my network using the onscreen keyboard. I have it wallhung and will not be using the keyboard or mouse.

Greetings, Thanks for the reply. I'm not trying to use Ctrl-Alt-Del to clear anything, I'm not trying to use Ctrl-Alt-Del at all. Here's what I'm attempting:
Fire up a VM, log into the VM, run the customer's VPN
RDC to the customer's server
Run the management app on the customer's server that needs elevated privileges
In the RDC session to the customer's server:
I get a UAC dialog, asking if "I want to complete this action by entering my credentials on the authentic Windows logon screen" or "I don't want to complete this action"
I click the first option ("I want to complete...")
I get a second UAC dialog saying "Press Control+Alt+End" to enter your credentials"
I'm not able to press Control+Alt+End and have it go to the server in the RDC session, the VM is capturing it first; I HAVE tried it using the onscreen keyboard in the RDC session also without success
(I took screen caps of the dialogs, but, I've pulled an all-nighter working on another issue and couldn't seem to figure out how to insert them here... doh!)
So - no Ctrl-Alt-Del
Next time I need to get to the client's server I'll have to check the settings for keyboard shortcut forwarding. Thanks for the suggestion.
Steven

Colors onscreen in LR do not match when opened in PS - how to fix?

Hi there
I'm using Lightroom 1.0 and PS CS. When I open my files in LR and view them - especially JPGs - they look completely different than opening the exact same files in Photoshop - on the some monitor at the same time.
I can't find settings for color management in LR and the help thing says you don't have to worry about it - but clearly it is displaying something wrong. In LR my JPGs from my Canon 5D look WAY too contrast and red but in PS I open them and they look great right out of the camera. So why is LR messing up my colors onscreen?
The CR2 files when I export them look different too. Why is this happening and how do I get LR and PS on the same page? Aren't they supposed to talk to each other?
Thanks

Darlene -
I think we have the same problem and I'm at a total loss...
First, here's a screen grab showing Lightroom on the left, the picture was exported as a PSD and then open in CS2 - shown on the right. The file was exported as ProPhoto RGB, 16 bit. Photoshop (CS2) is set-up with ProPhoto RGB as its color space:
http://www.pebbleplace.com/Other_Stuff/1_LR_v_CS2.jpg
Next, here's the same screen shot but with Apple's Preview app opening the same PSD - and its color MATCHES Lightroom.
http://www.pebbleplace.com/Other_Stuff/2_LR_v_CS2_Preview.jpg
To prove the color policies are set-up the way I keep reading over and over... Screen grab from Photoshop (CS2)
http://www.pebbleplace.com/Other_Stuff/3_Color_Policies.jpg
If this helps anyone, here is the EXIF from the image (and I've tried many, many images - same result)
http://www.pebbleplace.com/Other_Stuff/4_File_Exif.jpg
I'm almost 100% sure that Apple preview is color managed, here's a screen shot showing where you can change color profile being applied
http://www.pebbleplace.com/Other_Stuff/5_Preview_Color_Profile.jpg
And finally a screen shot of the Monitor profile being used in the displays control panel (OS X 10.4.10).
http://www.pebbleplace.com/Other_Stuff/6_CE_Profile_Selected.jpg
After messing with this for almost 48 hours and searching the internet over and over, I'm no closer to answer. My conclusion is that either CS2 is messed up, so ---
De-installed it
Installed 7.0 - same result...
Re-installed CS2 - same result...
Downloaded the CS3 Extended demo - same result...
The next step is to repeat all of this on my wife's Mac and then the computer at work. The computer at work will probably be fine since that system is Windows and pure sRGB. Our IT department even locks us out color management panels - like Adobe Gamma. So that probably won't go too well...

Managing Data

Ive had very little issues with the iPhone so far, but today something minor happened but there doesn't seem to be an easy way to fix it; This is a big deal.
I was syncing some videos when iTunes told me the "disc" (iPhone) has timed out or something to that effect. This happened before but it didn't leave 500+ megs of unusable, undeleteable, "other" data like it did this time.
A restore is out of the question for me. There has to be a better way to manage this "other" data. I understand this is stuff like mail cache, safari data etc... but what about when a sync goes wrong (for no reason) and iTunes eats up a chunk of your memory and wont let it go?

Copied from the iPhone user guide.
When you connect iPhone to your computer, settings on iPhone are automatically backed up to your computer. You can restore this information if you need to—if you get a new iPhone, for example, and want to transfer your previous settings to it.
Restore or transfer settings
Do one of the following:
Connect a new iPhone to the same computer you used with your other iPhone, open iTunes, and follow the onscreen instructions.
Reset the data on iPhone. From the Home screen choose Settings > General > Reset, then choose Reset All Settings, “Erase All Content and Settings,” or “Reset Network Settings.” Then connect iPhone to your computer, open iTunes, and follow the onscreen instructions.
Since all iPhone data and settings are backed up to iTunes during each sync process, you shouldn't lose any settings, etc. from the last sync if you follow the onscreen instructions properly when restoring from the iTunes backup file.

Rpass - Secure, simple, and pluggable command-line password management

WARNING: this program requires a python version greater than or equal to 3.
EDIT: Fixed a bunch of bugs that made this unusable, please update!
EDIT: Added a default configuration file.
Hi there!
rpass is a command-line password manager that encrypts any and all credentials you would like to store using gpg's algorithms.
Gnome and Mac OS both have a universal credential solution, but to my knowledge there is no such generic linux application. Gnome's keyring code is long and personally, I don't trust it as much as the simple system I have in place in rpass - it is transparent and easy to understand, and any possible security holes would be blatantly visible.
rpass can be used directly from the commandline, typing your master password (gpg passphrase) in every time, but it really shines when gpg-agent and xclip are installed. gpg-agent saves your passphrase for an interval of time, so you only have to authenticate yourself occaisonally, and the powerful search capabilities of rpass (regex-enabled) allow simple and quick account selection.
Furthermore, with xclip installed passwords NEVER have to be printed onscreen - the first matching entry's password is automatically copied to the clipboard if a search is done with rpass. You can even run rpass from applications like 'dmenu', and although there will be no visible output, if you enter a search term after rpass you will have the password you wanted copied to your clipboard.
Finally, it can also be easily integrated in other applications -- I use it for my email (mutt) and any script I write that requires a password.
AUR Link: http://aur.archlinux.org/packages.php?ID=44788
More detailed documentation and explanation can be found at: https://github.com/rscare/rpass/blob/ma … E.asciidoc (scroll down)
or with
$ man rpass
after installation.
git repository: git://github.com/rscare/rpass.git
Please comment on the software and the documentation. Thank you very much for taking the time to try my software.
Last edited by RedScare (2010-12-27 07:04:44)

I'm very interested in this. However... on the initial run, pressing enter causes a crash:
$ rpass
Need to first create gpg key pair.
Choose a secure passphrase -- this is going to be your master password.
Rerun program after key creation.
WARNING: DO NOT pick a sign-only key type.
Press [ENTER] when ready.
Traceback (most recent call last):
File "/usr/bin/rpass_py_interface", line 80, in <module>
input("Press [ENTER] when ready.")
File "<string>", line 0
^
SyntaxError: unexpected EOF while parsing
I got around this by entering junk and I made my key. After rerunning rpass with the key generated:
$ rpass
Traceback (most recent call last):
File "/usr/bin/rpass_py_interface", line 84, in <module>
if not(IsRunning(gpg-agent)):
File "/usr/lib/python2.7/site-packages/rpass.py", line 24, in IsRunning
plist = [re.match(ppatt, p.strip()).groups()[0] for p in str(proc.communicate()[0], encoding=utf-8).split(n)[1:-1]]
TypeError: str() takes at most 1 argument (2 given)
Looks like rpass expects the gpg-agent to be running when it starts.
edit: rather, it expects the gpg-agent to be running with the key loaded. gpg-agent was already loaded thanks to keychain but without my newly created key known to it.
Last edited by falconindy (2010-12-26 03:42:28)

Managing colors for perfecct printing not working

Hi all,
I think I have tried everything and all my prints look exactly the same (different from what is on the screen) so if anyone could help, it would be great! (This is a thank you pic for all the people who came to my wedding!). In all the of pictures, it seems like there is too much yellow and they miss some of the saturation.
For this specific shot, the camera was a Digital Rebel XT. My printer is a Canon IP4300. My screen was calibrated with a Spider Express2 using a gamma of 2.2. Oh, my screen is a 23'' cinema display.
First try:
I used the Spider2Express color profile for my screen, in aperture I setted the color profile to system managed and in the printer setting, I disabled the color correction in the color option tab.
Second try:
screen color profile: Cinema HD
Aperture profile: system managed
disabled color correction
Third try:
screen color profile: Spider2Express
Aperture: Canon IJ Color printer profile 2005
disabled color correction
I also played with the black point compensation and it didnt change anything in the output.
Also, when I play with the onscreen proofing I cant see any changes between these profiles: spider2express, Cinema HD and the oen from the printer. If there is one, it is too small for me to notice.
Finaly, the print preview all look exactly as what was on the screen.
I really dont understant where the problem can be so any help would be great!

Hi Alan,
I'll give it a bash to help,
firstly you'll have calibrated your monitor with the spider express and it'll have created a profile. Your display should be set outside of aperture to use this profile. Go to system pref's, displays, select the colour tab and select the profile spider created. This gives your display the profile to use in all applications.
Next If your using photo paper there may be a profile for the printer / paper combination from the paper manufacturer, check their web site. I use Ilford and have downloaded the profile for my Canon i9950 & classic pearl and installed it. This profile then appears in the view, proofing profile within aperture. You should not really use on screen proofing untill after you've made all your image adjustments and then finally use on screen proofing to check for posterisation and colour saturation.
So now on to printing, Perhaps the profile you've downloaded suggests a default paper type to use such as (seeing as it's a canon printer) photo paper plus glossy or photo paper pro and if to use black point compensation or not. We need to keep these settings in mind when we enter the print menu. Best thing to do is copy the sample single image preset and rename it to the paper type and size your using. Then in the print settings for that newly created profile you'll see a button for printer settings, select it and you'll be presented with another menu for printer settings. In the 3rd drop down menu form the top select colorsync, color conversion = standard and quartz filter = none.
then select quality and media from the 3rd drop down and select the recommended paper type in the profile you downloaded (it's normally photo paper plus glossy) and change print mode to top quality photo.
Next again in the 3rd dropdown select colour options and set colour correction = none.
Next go to special effects and make sure no options are selected and click done.
You're back in the print menu, select the paper size you are using and the orentation. In the colorsync profile select the profile name for your paper and you may click black point compensation if required. Note the gamma setting usualy set at 1, and your print resolution, I normally have use best DPI selected. Now save this as the renamed paper type you copied at the start.
Next is to run off a test print making sure you select this new paper settings in the print window and see how it looks. If you notice it's a little dark go back and adjust the gamma to say 1.15 to 1.20 and try again. Don't forget to save your adjustments.
As you use different papers and sizes you create these settings and just simply select the required ones for the print size / paper type your using at print time.
This is how I work and it gives good results. Also if your getting dark results all the time consider reducing the lumanance of your display from a recomended 120 / 140 Cdm to something less like 90 / 100 cdm. The apple displays can run a little "bright" for printing giving the impression of dark prints when compared to the screen.
Best of luck
Eoin

Onscreen manager

Similar Messages

Maybe you are looking for