Oops spilt wine on keyboard, advice please

Oops what a clutz, spilt some wine on my lovely MBP last night
Now much of the keyboard is sticky, and curiously the 'letter in the alphabet that comes after I' key doesn't work at all, though others do.
Any advice on cleaning / fixes, other than send it back to Apple for (no doubt expensive) repair?
Is it possible, without causing further damage, to lever the keys off the keyboard to clean beneath? Have done this several times on PC keyboard but am reluctant with this to start fiddling with MBP without some knowledge.
Thanks
- Matt

Several pieces of advice.
To get keys off is quite straightforward. Push the keys either side of the one you want off. Then get both your fingernails on either side and pull upwards carefully with even pressure.
I did this on my Powerbook G4 at one point to arrange the keys into a Dvorak arrangement. Identical keyboard there.
You have nothing to lose really it's a non-functioning key and at worst you'll need a replacement keyboard, which you probably do.
Before trying that though, just use a hair dryer to dry any remaining liquid (though the heat from the machine should have dried it already).

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Oops...pre-install advice, please...

My OS partition on the MBP is about 5G shy of being full. When I got this machine last December, I figured 40G was enough; never thought that Apple OS would be so bloated and big. Well, it is, and I'd like to bump up to Leopard sometime soon, but find myself in a quandary with the amount of space left. I'm sure Leopard won't fit on what I've got left.
SO...what are my options? Is it possible to repartition during the upgrade and spare myself a headache, or am I just hosed? Or is there something wrong with my OS and there's a bunch of hidden stuff I can get rid of? Or...?

Your system looks all absolutely normal. Yes, don't repartition next time - there's no need whatsoever, and it always leads to all sorts of problems exactly like this.
To clone your system disk, it's easy, but read through this first (and other online options if you like - search for 'cloning bootable backup') to reassure yourself you're ready for it, as you will be erasing everything on your disk to do this, so it's not for the faint of heart.
Hook up an external firewire disk and ensure it's formatted as HFS+(Journaled), open Disk Utility, click on your system partition, go to the Restore tab, drag your system disk to the Source field and the Firewire disk to the Destination field, and click Restore. Once the copy to the external disk is complete, select that Firewire disk as your Startup Disk (in System Prefs) and reboot to confirm it all works OK. Your computer will restart from the external drive and should to all intents and purposes appear to be completely normal except a bit slower. Now you can copy all the contents of your 'Media partition' over to the Firewire drive too - put it into a folder in your home folder.
Note that you can also use third-party drive cloners like SuperDuper or CarbonCopyClone to clone your system partition. All options work well, but Disk Utility doesn't cost you anything.
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Tecra M5: finger print sensor is not working properly since a drink was spilt into the keyboard

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I need G4 MDD, Hard Drive Up-Grade advice, please.

I need G4 MDD, Hard Drive Up-Grade advice, please.
My G4 Model:
Power Mac G4 (Mirrored Drive Doors 2003) - M9145LL/A
Processor G4 1.25 GHz (SINGLE)
- L2 Cache 256 KB (1:1)
- L3 Cache 1 MB
167 MHz Bus Speed
(Dual Boot Model) - Running 10.3.9 and 9.2.2
Installed Memory - 1- 256 MB Stick and 1- 512 MB Stick - (Kingston PC2700 - KTA-G4333)
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Combo Drive
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FireWire 400 2
EtherNet (built-in) 1000Base-T
Expansion Slots 4 PCI slots
Display ATI Radeon 9000 Pro
- VRAM 64 MB DDR
- AGP 4x
LaCie external DVD Burner.
I'm planning on doing the following:
I'm on a limited budget, can only afford to spend around $300.00
I Want to add 3 more 512 MB Sticks of the Kingston KTA-G4333/512 PC2700 Ram.
Also, I Want to Replace my 80 GB HD with either of the following:
2 - Seagate 160 or 250 GB SATA drives/8 MB Cache on the Rear Bays
And a - SIIG SATA PCI Controller Card (SIISCSATM12S)
OR;
1 Seagate 160 GB ATA/100 8 MG Cache drive in the ATA/100 Bus Rear Bay.
And 1 Seagate 160 GB ATA/100 8 MG Cache drive in the front ATA/66 Bus Bay.
My Question:
(Which would be better performance wise and for stability?)
I only want to have 2 internal Hard Drives so my Mac won't over heat.
I'm planning on Cloning my 80 GB drive to one of the new drives using Super Duper.
After that, I'll store the drive until I can afford to get an external OWC case for it.
I want to use the second new drive for a Photoshop Scratch disk and for temp video file work.
Under 10.3.9 - I use:
Photoshop CS2
Toast 7
Popcorn 1.0.3
VisualHUB
On occasion I still boot into OS 9 for Photoshop 5.5., QuarkXPress 3.2.2 r5 and Adobe Illustrator 7.
I don't foresee being able to afford a Mac Pro and don't want to get a used G5 anytime
soon. I'm hoping my G4 will last me a few more years.
I suspect putting a ATA/100 drive on the ATA/66 Bus might hamper performance. And suspect using a SATA controller card in a "PCI" slot isn't as good as having a True SATA Bus, performance wise either.
I was just wondering which would be the better way to go for performance and stability?
The drives will be probably OEM either at OWC or NewEgg.
I'd really appreciate some help with this. Thank You.

beardedbob wrote:
I want to use the second new drive for a Photoshop Scratch disk and for temp video file work.
Under 10.3.9 - I use:
Photoshop CS2
Toast 7
Popcorn 1.0.3
VisualHUB
I suspect putting a ATA/100 drive on the ATA/66 Bus might hamper performance. And suspect using a SATA controller card in a "PCI" slot isn't as good as having a True SATA Bus, performance wise either.
I was just wondering which would be the better way to go for performance and stability?
With those applications and the intended purpose for the 2d drive, i.e. video and PS scratch, then go SATA. No question, best performance (without considering the cost of SCSI) to be found with SATA even using a PCI SATA controller. PATA been left behind, no ones doing development anymore.
I would suggest partitioning that 2d drive because PS and FS scratch disks are different in kind. FS needs unfragmented media, otherwise dropped frames and sync issues. PS scratch media are temporary and messy.
Depending on the drives and card, SATA drives should bench (with something like Intech QuickBench) at the high end of around 80-90 MB/sec. I haven't bought a PATA HD in years, but best I ever saw was around 60 MB/sec. 80-90 MB/sec is still very good even if say you can bench better in Mac Pro.
The Siig card you're considering is solid. I've used it in both 10.4 and 10.5, but only used it to boot in 10.4.x, never in Leopard. I had some issues with it my others cards, but easily solved by swapping placement.
I also have the two-port Sonnet Tempo, which is actually just a purple Firmtek Seritek 2-port card. I bought the Siig first, having to get it (and a bunch of other stuff) shipped overseas. I later bought the Sonnet because I could get it locally although for a higher price; with overseas taxes, customs, etc. for only the card --- it's a wash.
Anyway, I have two WD SE16 750GB drives in my MDD 1.25 Dual, which were originally on the Siig. With the Siig, QuickBench (I run the big 100MB files) showed 70+ MB/sec Read, around 55+ MB/sec Writes. I was a bit disappointed about the Writes. When the Sonnet arrived, I swapped and ran QuickBench again. With the Sonnet I see both Reads and Writes at 80+ MB/sec.
So as far as benchmarks go, the Sonnet/Firmtek wins. (I know Firmtek has a line of internal cards, including a 4 port version.) But I can't say I noticed any huge difference in everyday tasks. I had some sleep issues with Sonnet/Firmtek in 10.4.x, which was solved by downgrading the firmware.
I have FC Studio, but I capture to externals via eSATA.
I still have the Siig, it's in my MDD 1.0 Dual used as a file and Time machine server. Has a Seagate Barracuda 7200.11 1TB on it which doesn't bench to well on the Siig, but I haven't tried bench testing it with the Sonnet.
Hope that helps.

New System Build feedback/advice, please...

Time to build a new WorkStation. My motivation for upgrading is that I have been using a mediocore laptop (i7m, 8gb, 250gb ) from my work as my home system for the last 2 years, I am starting to get more freelance coming in and need a good desktop.
I am not so sure about my processor, mother board and video card choice. I am more interested in app usability than absolute throughput and want to maximise my dollar investment.
Purchase date: this week
Budget: I'd like to stay close to $1000-1300, but can spend more for significant performance gains. As I do more research, my inclinations are trending higher.
System Usage: My primary uses will include photo editing with Lightroom and Photoshop, 3D graphics using 3D studio Max, Maya and Mud Box, HD video editing using Premiere and After Affects and Web Design. I will also use it as an HD media player and hifi audio is important. Maximizing cs6 performance in premiere & pShop is my main target. I am focused mainly on user experience while running these apps. If I need to encode hrs of video or crank out frames in max/maya, I can do it at work. I seldom run games.
Monitors: I'm running two Dell U2410's IPS, calibrated w\Color Munki, one portrait one lanscape.
Parts to Upgrade: Full system build
O/S : Win7 Ultimate, I might play with Ubuntu/Virtualization
Vendor: Newegg unless I can save big $$ else where. I like B&H.
It needs to be an Intel machine & I have chosen lga 2011 becuase I'll eventually go to 64gb. I'll do some modest overclocking.
Any advice is appreciated. Thank you for your expertise.
Processor:
Intel Core i7-3820 Sandy Bridge-E 3.6GHz (3.8GHz Turbo Boost) LGA 2011 130W Quad-Core Desktop Processor BX80619i73820
$299 w/ship
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16819115229
or
Intel Core i7-3930K Sandy Bridge-E 3.2GHz (3.8GHz Turbo) LGA 2011 130W Six-Core Desktop Processor BX80619i73930K
$569 w/ship
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16819116492
Do you have any feeling about how much I'll gain by going to the 6 core cpu over the 4 core? Remember, for me usability in the cs6 apps is more important than marginal gains in throughput.
Mobo:
MSI X79A-GD45 (8D) LGA 2011 Intel X79 SATA 6Gb/s USB 3.0 ATX Intel Motherboard with UEFI BIOS
$218 w/ship
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813130635
or
ASRock X79 Extreme6 LGA 2011 Intel X79 SATA 6Gb/s USB 3.0 ATX Intel Motherboard
$240 w/ship
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813157289
or
MSI Big Bang-XPower II LGA 2011 Intel X79 SATA 6Gb/s USB 3.0 XL ATX Intel Motherboard with UEFI BIOS
$380
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813130626
I would really appreciate any feedback on mobos in regards to maximizing cs6...7...8 performance, system logiveity, and performance. Is it worth it to go for a higer end mobo? If so which one. I like the msi's based on eventually ug to 128 gb, but are they money well spent? Any probs w/these mobo's?
Memory:
G.SKILL Ripjaws X Series 32GB (4 x 8GB) 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM DDR3 1600 (PC3 12800) Desktop Memory Model F3-12800CL10Q-32GBXL
$130
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820231490
Hard Drive:
SAMSUNG 830 Series MZ-7PC256B/WW 2.5" 256GB SATA III MLC Internal Solid State Drive (SSD)
$160
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820147164
Video:
GIGABYTE GV-N65TOC-1GI GeForce GTX 650 Ti 1GB 128-bit GDDR5 PCI Express 3.0 x16 HDCP Ready Video Card
$160 w/ship
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814125447
or
MSI N660 Ti PE 2GD5/OC GeForce GTX 660 Ti 2GB 192-bit GDDR5 PCI Express 3.0 x16 HDCP Ready SLI Support Video Card
Item#: N82E16814127696
$300
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814127696
I am still a little unsure of the real world differnces that I'll realize by doubling my video card expense, advice please?
Optical Drive:
LG Black 14X BD-R 2X BD-RE 16X DVD+R 5X DVD-RAM 12X BD-ROM 4MB Cache SATA BDXL Blu-Ray Burner with SW, 3D Play Back - BH14NS40
$70
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16827136250
Case:
COOLER MASTER HAF 912 RC-912-KKN1 Black SECC/ ABS Plastic ATX Mid Tower Computer Case
$60
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811119233
Power Supply:
FX Core Edition PRO650W (P1-650S-NLB9) 650W ATX12V 2.2 & ESP12V 2.91 SLI Ready CrossFire Ready 80 PLUS BRONZE Certified Active PFC Power Supply
$90
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817207014
Total $1190
or $1760
I have picked the MSI motherboard due to its support for 128gb ram, superior audio and other high end features. The AS Rock for its rep for solid value/performance. Opinions?
Finally, I would like some advice on video cards. I prefer nVidia to ATI, but I'm not sure which chip to go for. The six fifties are cheaper, but the 660 ti provides more CUDA cores.

Alex,
I sure wish you would quick picking fights with lots of knowledgeable people just trying to help people build good PCs for running Adobe Premiere. (I am stating that based on not just this thread, but rather the strong challenges you seem to bring to about half of the threads that you've chosen to participate in).
I was the original poster to suggest that Neal select a larger case. Next Harm agreed and cited 6 points which I would agree with regarding why a larger box is better for a video editing rig.
What are the typical goals for someone wanting a video editing PC? I would expect that most users want:
- robust, runs and never fails
- has incredible power; face it, video editing with AVCHD is one of the most taxing applications a PC can face today
- quiet; who wants to be doing creative work with any server room like wind noise
Now let me be specific where you are simply WRONG WRONG WRONG:
You stated: "Back pressure increases in larger spaces due to natural impedance of airflow (much like with electricity traveling over distance)"
Fact: Exactly the opposite; Back pressure decreases in larger spaces due to more room for the air to flow (much like thicker copper passes electricity with less resistance than a thin wire)
Your stated: "Open non-compartmentalized spaces are a recipe for hot spots - areas of turbulence with higher temperatures." and then cited a server room article talking about cooling air taking the path of least resistance -- going under the floor in a server room, instead of through rack mounted servers.
Fact: Lots of open space for large, slow moving fans to keep a video editing box cool is a great way to go
You stated: "Full towers - in themselves - are worse for cooling"
Fact: That is one crazy indefensible statement!
I seriously doubt that you fully comprehend the differences and importance of thermal conductivity, heat capacity, conduction, convection, and radiation for you to make the statements that you have so far and these are the staples for discussing how heat transfer takes place.
Note to other readers... There are lots of ways to cool components including cpus, hard drives, gpus and memory. I suspect that the noise levels brought by servers and some gamers would be totally offensive to the ambient noise level that you want in the room with you for video editing. Therefore we are left with just a few quiet alternatives: 1) lots of volume at low velocity (large cases, large fans, slow rpm), 2) liquid cooling, and 3) Cases with doors or baffles to keep the sound from a noisier solution from getting back to your ears.
Regards,
Jim

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As Bob says, any iMap service can do this. GMail can, iCLoud mail can too.
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Hi All
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http://docwiki.cisco.com/wiki/Basic_Load_Balancing_Using_Routed_Mode_on_the_Cisco_Application_Control_Engine_Configuration_Example
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Hi Shauneenb,
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Question ?
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ps
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