Optimal headphone settings for Xfi XtremeMu

I've just bought myself some nice new Sennheiser HD595 headphones and I'd like to do most of my music listening through my computer (CDs and DVD-As played through the dri've in the computer), but I'd like some advice on how to set my Xfi XtremeMusic card to the right settings.
I've fiddled around and found that the Crystaliser does make the sound sharper, but I'm worried that it might be obscuring other sounds or distorting the noise somehow to achieve this effect (I'm fairly fanatical about getting the best possible sound out of my music - "the way the musician intended it to be heard" or something like that).
I've also swapped between the 2. speaker setting and the headphone setting and can't really decide which one sounds better - although at higher volume the 2. speaker setting has a constant fuzz in the background. However, some of the other posts on this board suggest that 5. is the best setting for headphones.
I also tried the CMSS-3D headphone setting and it definitely sounds worse, like the sound is wrongly positioned around my head.
Basically, I'm just a little overwhelmed by the sheer number of permutations and combinations in the sound settings, and would like some advise on how to tweak it to the best music-listening effect.

In the config. consoles I think it's better to leave it as headphones or 2. speakers. Since you have to plug the headphones to the line-out jack if you configure as 5. you'll lose the center, sub and rears when listening to surround content. When you use a 5./7. setup, CMSS "fills" the missing channels with the stereo source. With headphones it makes stereo music more?"upfront" so it doesn't sound "inside the head", but according to some reviews, the HD595s have already?an upfront soundstage. CMSS 3D is nice when you listen to 5. DD/DTS content with headphones, the spatialization is pretty good and I prefer it over the basic stereo?downmix (or even dolby headphone), but you might want to turn it off for stereo content (mostly music) as it changes sligthly the sound (you already noticed that).
CMSS 3D is almost a must for games, it enables MacroFX and elevation filter (in UT2003 let a manta run over you, you'll immediately notice the difference), just enable also bass boost for games, it tends to favor mids and highs.

Similar Messages

Request for optimal calibration settings for Lenovo ThinkVision monitors

I understand one person's settings may not hold true for someone else's given display variances, but I would very much like to get anyone's suggested, optimal picture settings for each of the below two monitors.
Primarily monitor 1 looks way worse than monitor 2 for me, but I still want help with both. Models listed below. Please include each item/setting with # used so I can try them out and see if it helps.
Monitor 1: LEN L1900pA
Monitor 2: LEN LT1913pA
Thank you for your help!

Hi Jwhyrock,
Jwhyrock reply,
I played with settings on all 3 monitors. Not entirely sure I like what I did, but it is a bit better. I would still like to see what settings anyone else is using for their display such as contrast, brightness, color saturation etc.
Below is the link on how to setup the default calibration for display, please follow the steps. And also suggest you to check with resetting the Monitor to factory default setting in the monitor, or you can also check with installing Monitor .inf for the specific model which can be downloaded from the manufacturer link.
Display Calibration
Hope this helps!
Best regards,
Hemanth Kumar
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?Optimal Photoshop settings for slideshow-iMovie then iDVD

I know that there are many posts about file size and pixel size for optimizing photos prior to importing into iMovie or iDVD. I have read many of them, including many of them by Karl Petersen, but have been disappointed by the quality of the photos when viewed on the final DVD on my television. The problem I have it that almost ALL of my photos are portrait style and not landscape. A lot of the discussions center around avoiding pillarboxes, which I cannot avoid with vertical pictures
All of the photos are shot RAW on a Nikon D70 and imported into Photoshop.
Can anyone make recommendations on the optimal photoshop settings for creating the files to import for a slideshow in iDVD.
Specifically, in Photoshop, for vertically oriented pictures, what would be the recommendation for:
1) File size and best way to control that in Photoshop. Should I increase the file size on the original RAW image import? (I currently use the 2000x3008 6MP default)
2) Should each photo be cropped to an exact size or can I keep a specific aspect ratio instead?
3) Should I use a pixel aspect ratio other than normal? (These will all be viewed in the US )
4) Should the photos be imported into iMovie first and go through KB (even with no zooming) or can they go into iDVD?
Many Thanks!!!
Dual 1.42 MHz G4, 2 GB RAM Mac OS X (10.4.7) iMovieHD 6.0.2, iDVD 6.0.2

Since posting the test I suggested you run, Alesse, I've done some testing of my own, with some interesting results. They aren't going to help you much, I'm afraid, but they might shed some light on the whole process of making slideshows.
I do everything I can to maximize image quality in iMovie slideshows. Then I've wondered what affect iDVD has on the result.
So today I played the same slideshow from three sources. One version from the camera, one version from iDVD and one version from a Digital Video Recorder (DVR).
First I created a slideshow where the same photos were imported four different ways, each as a four 4-second clip. The test used rather simple photos, 1600x1200 jpegs, about 500k each, from an old Nikon Coolpix 950.
The images were delivered to the iMovie four ways:
1) I imported the sequence of images into QuickTime Player, then saved that as two DV streams, one Progressive and one Interlaced. These were dropped into the Media folder as described above. iMovie "adopted" them when I re-opened the project. (They were NOT imported by iMovie.)
2) I imported the same images with Ken Burns ON (but with no animation); and
3) I imported the same images with Ken Burns OFF.
The four clips of each image were arranged side-by-side on the Timeline, so I could easily compare their quality while played on the TV.
(The images were selected to include those that are easy to encode by iDVD and images difficult to encode — having lots of high-contrast lines like roof lines, lap-siding on buildings, telephone lines, the kind of content that tends to acquire the "jaggies". I avoided the bug where iMovie adds jaggies if you grant it permission to render UNrendered images as you export the project to iDVD or to the camera.)
I wanted to compare the quality of three kinds of slideshows:
1) the slideshow played from the camera;
2) the slideshow burned by iDVD and
3) the slideshow burned by a standalone DVR.
To make the three slideshows, I did this:
1) used iDVD to burn a DVD of the iMovie project;
2) exported the iMovie slideshow project back to the camera; and
3) connected the camera to a Digital Video Recorder (DVR) and burned a DVD on the DVR. This was so I could compare the quality of iDVD to a DVR recording.
Then I connected the camera to the TV so I could compare it, in turn, to each of the DVDs. Because each image played for a total of 16 seconds, I was able to play both the DVD and the camera simultaneously and switch the TV back and forth between the two inputs to compare the image quality of the camera to a DVD.
RESULT
• The camera image was superior in all respects to both the DVDs, as one would expect. Considerably better. There were virtually no jaggies. Subtler colors. Less contrast. iMovie 6 was obviously delivering the goods. Great quality, on every clip.
• At first I thought the DVR image was better than the iDVD image, but reconsidered that later. Each had its own positive qualities. There was little difference. Each was slightly better in some respects than the other, worse in others. It was basically a wash. Both had about the same amount of jaggies, sometimes in different places.
• Another interesting result was that all the clips — from all four sources — played basically the same on the camera and on the two DVDs. There was very little difference among the four import methods. (I expected more difference.)
• There WAS an obvious difference among clips played in iMovie, however. The DV stream exported as a DV Progressive movie displayed with better quality in iMovie itself. The difference wasn't huge, but it was sharper, more "life-like".
• It is obvious that encoding an iMovie project to the MPEG-2 format used by a DVD — whether by iDVD or by a DVR — sacrifices quality. You won't notice it much on some images — flowers, faces, landscapes — but you will see jaggies on others.
• When the test was over, I watched a DVD slideshow of the same images I had burned a few weeks ago containing three iMovie widescreen formats: DV Widescreen, 720p, and 1080i. It was a close call, but I think they were all slightly better than the DV slideshow. Some images, especially, were better.
CONCLUSIONS
If you want the best playback quality possible, use the camcorder to play the slideshow on the TV, not a DVD.
To avoid the jaggies, it may be necessary to avoid certain photos. It's hard to tell which those are until you play the DVD on a TV. Plan to burn a DVD, then purge the images that acquire bad jaggies and burn it again.
Softening the TV picture can help. My TV offers a tremendous range of sharpness, a feature common to new TVs.
• My guess is that until we can burn Hi-Def DVDs, our huger and huger TVs are going to make the problem of DVD quality worser and worser. My slideshows would probably all look great on yesterday's "huge" 20" TV.
• I don't have DVD Studio Pro to test. Perhaps someone can compare that too?
Anyway, I hope something here helps.
Karl

Optimal import settings for iTunes

Hi guys.
I would like to ask a few questions about optimising the import settings in iTunes.
I am happy with the iTunes download quality but I see for importing CD's I can choose 320kbps rather than the 256kbps.
If I choose 320kbps, is every CD able to give me that quality? What are CD's made in?
Also I can choose a sample rate of 44.100kHz and 48.000kHz with Mono and Stereo. Which should I choose for best quality. I will use my iPhone, speaker doc and for music and movie creation.
Thanks in advance guys.
Andrew

Thank you so much for that link. Answered my questions and got me thinking.
With a little more research I found a guy who tested 12 CD's from his collection and found the bit rate for the CD's ranged between 798 to 1411kbps. Interesting.
Thanks again.
Andrew

Looking For Optimal Wireless Settings For Multiple WRT310N's

Folks, I have 3 Linksys WRT310N routers (all at the most current level firmware) around my house serving as both wired and wireless access points. I have Verizon DSL service (3 MB) as my ISP. We have a couple of IBM T60p laptops (w/Win XP Pro), a Lenovo S12 netbook (w/Win 7), and my son also has an Apple iPod Touch all that access our home network via the wireless network provided by the WRT310N's. The WRT310N's all have unique static IP addresses (DHCP disabled - IP addresses being issued by the Verizon DSL modem/router). My current wireless settings are as follows:
Wireless / Basic Wireless Setings:
Wireless Configuration = Manual
Network Mode = Mixed
Network Name (SSID) = (something other than linksys!)
Radio Band = Auto
Wide Channel = Auto
Standard Channel = Auto
SSID Broadcast = Enabled (Need enabled or the Apple iPod Touch will not find the wireless network)
Wireless / Wireless Security:
Security Mode = WPA2 Personal
Encryption = TKIP or AES
Passphrase = (Something really clever here!)
Key Renewal = 3600 seconds
Wireless / Wireless MAC Filter:
Enabled (With all the appropriate MAC addresses permitted)
Wireless / Advanced Wireless Settings:
AP Isolation = Enabled
Frame Burst = Enabled
Authentication Type = Auto (greyed out - can NOT change)
Basic Rate = Default
Transmission Rate = Auto (greyed out - can NOT change)
N Transmission Rate = Auto
CTS Protection Mode = Auto
Beacon Interval = 100
DTIM Interval = 1
Fragmentation Threshold = 2346
RTS Threshold = 2347
My goal is obviously to provide the best performance on all the wireless devices that we have. Since the laptops and netbook have a variety of OS's (and sometimes our neighbor comes over with his Mac laptop) I'd like to keep it flexable for those PC's and the Apple iPod Touch. I've also read that if you have multiple wireless access points you should set them all to different channels. If so, which channels? Or, should they all be on the same channel so one could walk from room to room without losing their wireless connection? Since I have 3 WRT310N's I'm interested in what recommendations there are for performance to keep the laptops and netbook communicating using wireless "N" yet keeping compatible for the Apple iPod Touch on wireless "G". Thank you all in advance for any advice or info.

Hmmmm, for quite some time I've left the SSID the same on all the WRT310N routers. At one time a while back I was told to do this by a Linksys technician. They all are cascaded (LAN-to-LAN via the ethernet ports) off of the 4 ethernet ports on the Verizon DSL modem/router in the similar manner described in the following article:
http://www6.nohold.net/Cisco2/ukp.aspx?vw=1&docid=785463d9ecaf4cac84aed245b08d615f_3733.xml&pid=96&s...
(Switch) ethernet port 1 on each WRT310N is connected to ports 1 through 3 on the Verizon DSL modem/router. Hence, each WRT310N is acting as an access point (wired and wireless) throughout the house. I do NOT use the 'Internet' port on any of my WRT310N routers. They each have a static (fixed) IP address like 192.16.1.10, 192.168.1.11 and 192.168.1.12. They all reside on the same LAN subnet as my Verizon DSL modem/router which is responsible for issuing DHCP IP addresses for the entire home network. The remaining (switched) ethernet ports 2, 3, and 4 on each WRT310N is left open for local hard-wired devices like printers and multimedia devices (like XBox 360, etc.). So bottom line is that each WRT310N is acting like a 4-port network switch that also has wireless capabilities (like a WAP).
By keeping the SSID the same on all the WRT310N routers I can keep a single wireless profile on each device (i.e... PC's) for my entire house. So I can go and access WRT310N #1 (with let's say with SSID 'ABC') in my living room and later go into my home office room and access WRT310N #2 (with the same SSID - 'ABC') with the same wireless profile. I believe it is the same concept used when someone stays at a hotel and accesses their public wireless network. That way the hotel customers only have to set their SSID to let's say 'HILTON' regardless of which floor or room they are in.
So the part that I'm really focusing on is the wireless performance aspect. My laptops like to operate on 'N' and get pretty good connection speeds (usually receive around 270 Mbps). The Apple iPod Touch (2nd generation) only goes up to 'G' so I believe I need to keep a 'Mixed' Network Mode. The part I'm not so sure about is the Channel Width and whether or not all 3 Linksys routers should be on the same channel (or set to Auto) or if I should manually set the channels and provide some separation between their channels. That's where 'Channel Width' and 'Channel' settings get a bit over my head. Now when I previously had multiple 'G' Linksys routers I contacted Linksys Technical Support and they said to use the same SSID and that I should separate the channels, but that was with their earlier 'G' versions. Now that I have a more recent [N] version and the channel settings can be 'Auto' I'm wondering if the correct settings would still be to again separate the channels or maybe leave it up to the routers to function in 'Auto' mode.
And if I need to set each router up individually what recommended settings should they be? As follows:
WRT310N #1:
Network Mode = Mixed
Channel Width = ?
Channel = ?
WRT310N #2:
Network Mode = Mixed
Channel Width = ?
Channel = ?
WRT310N #3:
Network Mode = Mixed
Channel Width = ?
Channel = ?
Here is a Cisco web page that I'm using as a reference:
http://www6.nohold.net/Cisco2/ukp.aspx?pid=80&vw=1&articleid=21194
I'm also looking for any suggestions on tuning the Advanced Wireless Settings like Beacon Interval, Fragmentation Threshold, RTS Threshold, etc. Again, my wireless user devices are both G and N and have various OS's.
Thank you again in advance for all your help!!

Optimal Video Settings for Projectors

Hi Guys,
Really need your help on this one. My goal is to find the
optimal video format, data-rate and frame-rate to import 2-3 min
video pieces into director. I have the latest versions of Director
and Sorensen.
The projector size is 1000 x 700 pixels to be distributed on
dvd.
The original video files are mixed formats. I have some 640 x
425 AVI CAD movies, some DV movies at NTSC resolution and some 720
x 540 QTVR files converted to .avi.
The file types I am testing at the moment are SWF and
QUICKTIME .MOV, with mixed results on different systems. The best
results so far are from converting to SWF at 2500 kbps with 25 fps
keeping original size. I am then stretching the movies in director
to fit 1000 x 670.
Ideally I would like each movie to play back at a setting of
1000 x 670 inside the projector, so that I can add movie controls
at the bottom of the projector.
Can anyone point me in the right direction? Am I doing
something wrong here or is this the reality of using Director for
what I am trying to acheive. I seem to be spending hours trying
various formats and data-rates but with very average performance.

...doesn't really sound like a Lingo question but maybe
someone can help.
Craig Wollman
Lingo Specialist
Word of Mouth Productions
212-928-9581
www.wordofmouthpros.com
"martynrlee" <[email protected]> wrote in
message
news:ettocs$8ko$[email protected]..
> Hi Guys,
>
> Really need your help on this one. My goal is to find
the optimal video
> format, data-rate and frame-rate to import 2-3 min video
pieces into
> director.
> I have the latest versions of Director and Sorensen.
>
> The projector size is 1000 x 700 pixels to be
distributed on dvd.
>
> The original video files are mixed formats. I have some
640 x 425 AVI CAD
> movies, some DV movies at NTSC resolution and some 720 x
540 QTVR files
> converted to .avi.
>
> The file types I am testing at the moment are SWF and
QUICKTIME .MOV, with
> mixed results on different systems. The best results so
far are from
> converting
> to SWF at 2500 kbps with 25 fps keeping original size. I
am then
> stretching the
> movies in director to fit 1000 x 670.
>
> Ideally I would like each movie to play back at a
setting of 1000 x 670
> inside
> the projector, so that I can add movie controls at the
bottom of the
> projector.
>
> Can anyone point me in the right direction? Am I doing
something wrong
> here or
> is this the reality of using Director for what I am
trying to acheive. I
> seem
> to be spending hours trying various formats and
data-rates but with very
> average performance.
>
>
>

Optimal Bios settings For A64 3200

If anyone could help me out with all the settings in the bios to get the most out of my comp without the overclocking please could you give me some help.
My system is as follows:
Athlon 64 3200
Msi K8t neo fis2r
512 infineron pc3200
Visiontek Geforce2 Ultra 64
plus all the standard equip.
What i need help on is some of these options arent really apparent to me on what they do. Hell I cant even find out if the ram is running at ddr400. I dont suspect that it is because i expected to get much better then 6200 in 3dmark01. I also was wondering with the hyper transport.. do you need 2 sticks of ram like intels version.. or am I way off base?
This isnt the first system Ive built.. but this is the first bios that has confused the hell out of me.. i just cant seem to get what im looking for. Thanks in advance.
also.. just let me know if im supposed to be scoring around 6200.. but i would sure hope not because my old 1.2 tbird got 4000.
almost forgot teh psu
its a generic 300 watter with
3.3 -14a
5 -25a
12 -10a

Dude...
You need to seriously rethink your system components.
Your PSU:
" a generic 300 watter with
3.3 -14a
5 -25a
12 -10a "
I wouldnt have even thought about using that in a new system.. Risk damaging everything. You should have AT LEAST 20amps on the 12v line.. let alone.. more than a 300 watt power supply. Make this your FIRST upgrade, and I suggest not using your computer with it.
Graphics card:
Ok.. you have a top of the line processor.. with a seriously outdated graphics card.
Its no wonder why you are getting 6000 in 3dmark 01, heck, Im surprised you even got that. Its obvious your video card is the bottleneck. Get a new one, and watch your scores shoot up.
The problem has nothing to do with your bios.
Seriously get a new PSU, and fast. Its generic, its 300 watts, and it has 10 amps on the 12v line.
Everyone that posts after me is going to say the same exact thing.
Edit: And oh yeah... The ram is most likely running at its normal speed, unless you told it to run lower. Plus, even if it was running at slower and you increased it, you wouldnt see a HUGE HUGE HUGE increase that you seem to be hoping for. Its the vid card... and I cant stress enough on how much you need a new PSU.

Optimal bios settings for MSI KT400 V board, ms-6712

Is there a list of all the bios settings (not the normal manual, which came with the board), that are the best safest for this motherboard.
I have this board with a 2400 Athlon CPU.
Already flashed to the latest bios (i think 1.6..)
Happy X-mas.. :D

optimal settings are hard to pinpoint for a board because of the individual hardware. Some RAM can be run at aggressive timings like 2-2-5-2 with 4 way bank interleave/1T timings/Ultra Timings. Other's cannot.
AGP seems to be the best at 128mb aperture, fast writes enabled (if vid card supports it, nVidia's do).
PCI Busmaster enabled
32bit transfer mode enabled for the hard drives
System bios cacheable disabled
the list could go on but it's really a matter of trial and error.

Optimal export settings for filesize?

I have a 3 minute 30s movie, 30 fps, put together from clips that I captured using camtasia studio. It's 676px x 408px.
I've edited it together in premiere cs4, but I'm having issues trying to get a good balance between filesize and quality. The best I manages with quicktime was 60mb while retaining quality, the best with mpeg-2 was 122mb.
This is out of my area of expertise but those numbers seem high. I created a quicktime version that was 30mb, but the quality was terrible,
Please could anyone give me some suggestions on which codecs and settings I should be looking at to try and get the filesize down?

I find H.264 to give me the best quality with the smallest file. But there's really no magic formula here. Trial and error is the name of the game when it comes to specific settings.

Is there a way to auto-configure the optimal screen settings for a macbook pro running windows 7? When running Lion the screen looks 10x better.

Just like the title reads. 2011 MBP Quad Core 15". Used boot camp to instal Windows 7 Home premium but screen resolution is bad. Thank you

No. Reopen Boot Camp Assistant and click on the Continue button. You'll see in that screen a checkbox to download drivers. Check that box and uncheck the other boxes. Have a freshly formatted USB flash drive or hard drive connected. Must be partitioned MBR and formatted FAT32. You can format it while in Windows. Have it connected when you use Boot Camp Assistant. Once you click on the Continue button again BCA will attempt to download the drivers.
Once you have the drivers boot Windows. It should autorun the installer you downloaded after Windows gets itself settled in.

Suggested K8T Neo BIOS settings for CL 3 Kingston Value RAM

G'evening!
I'll be putting together a system with the Athlon 64 3000 and K8T Neo board and had a question about optimal BIOS settings for paired Kingston non-ECC DDR 3200 RAM (2x512mb) that's CAS 3. Should have gotten some CAS 2.5 probably but this is what I have for now so in it goes. I'm reading the quick users guide and noticed that you can manipulate the CAS, TCRD, TRAS, and TRP.
First question: Will the board's auto detect do a good job in picking out a stable configuration?
2nd question: If you had to or wanted to make manual settings, what would you suggest? The CAS value is rather easy since I guess it should be set to 3 but what settings would one pick for the others?
And if I still have your attention...
The other things that will be going in the system are the infamous Maxtor 120 gig SATA HD, a XFX 5900FX video card, Lite-On combo burner. Powersupply is an Antec Solution Series 400W PS. After reading the forums for a bit I get the impression that you shouldn't forget to load the SATA Promise drivers so the HD will get recognized. My SATA drive will be the only drive in the system and will of course be the boot drive. Any other possible pitfalls or problems I should know about with the Maxtor SATA's and the K8T Neo board?
Also, I had thought I read from a review that the Zalman Al-Cu CPU heatsink/fan will fit on this board. Of course after seeing it in my hands for the first time I thought that it was a pretty damn big heatsink. Anyone else using this heatsink? (haven't taken it out of the packaging yet so that's why I wanted some impressions).
Thanks for any advice you can give me. It's been a bit of time since I built a computer and I'm sure there's alot of basic things I'm relearning along with the fact that the Athlon 64 is fairly new technology. On the other hand, when it's running smoothly...

Cant offer anything on the Timing, (sorry as I am Intel Fodder ), But I can assure you that the Zalman 7000-AlCu, Will Indeed Fit onto your Motherboard (With Room To Spare!) :biggthumbsup:I can attest to this because My buddy just installed the Zalman 7000-AlCu on his K8T ....And He loves it! As do I ....It's about the only thing that we have in common as far as PC'S Go .........Sean REILLY875

Optimal Playable Settings

I used to have an nVidia card and you could check the optimal playable settings for their cards for certain games on their website. I was wondering if anyone here knew of a similar tool for ATI cards? Some games just won't auto select the settings according to your system (Deus Ex: Human Revolution for example). Thanks in advance for any suggestions.

Quote from: Svet on 04-October-11, 04:34:48
http://www.pcgamer.com/2011/05/03/deus-ex-human-revolution-system-specs/
I've looked at the system requirements. Thank you though. I'm talking about each specific setting in the games graphic settings.

New stream, low upload rate... Optimal Settings for streaming games?

I've been fiddling around with FMLE for the past few days/weeks and trying to find the best quality to stream quality games such as Bad Comapny 2, Starcraft 2, Mass Effect 2, etc
I am able to play games at max settings, but when I do the stream will lag so I choose to make the settings low enough so I can stream.
The only probably right now is they seem quite blurry/pixelated - which is probably due to my upload rate of 0.8mbps from SpeedTest.net1
My specs are:
Resolution of 1680x1050 (Most of my games like Bad Company 2 are played at 1280x720 windowed mode)
i5-2500K
GTX 560 Ti
12GB Ram
1TB Hard Disk Space
Windows 7 64bit
Upload rate of 0.8mbps (and 5.0mbps download incase it is needed)
http://www.justin.tv/mrshotzzzz/videos - Bad Company 2 at the moment... There seems to be a LOT of blurryness, but it seems quite smooth.
http://www.twitch.tv/mrshotzzzz/b/293073526?id=293073526&channel=mrshotzzzz - This is my latest... (skip to 1:25 where I configure it to be good)
When I fullscreen it, around the edges mainly, I see it is pixleted.
I use 1280x720 input, and 640x360 output with 800kbps. Is it possible to make it better?
Would an output of 640x360 with a bitrate of 650kbps be better?
Would an output of 854x480 be better?
Could changing my input size to 1920x1080 make my quality better?
tl;dr What is the optimal settings for a good specced computer, but with a low upload rate (0.8mbps)?

Hi,
In iChat 3 or iChat 4 setting System Preferences > Quicktime > Streaming to 1.5Mbps is quite important.
In Tiger (10.4.x) the Automatic Setting here is read as Zero by iChat and can cause issues even when the Speed is high enough.
In Leopard for iChat 4 this Automatic setting is read as 384k by iChat (although this is the Minimum for a 4 way Video chat it may still cap your Internet Speed).
If you have to change this iChat will need a restart if open.
The real controlling factor is the Upload speed the Internet Connection speed has.
There is one other place to help with the Bandwidth/Internet Connection speed.
This is in iChat menu > Preferences > Video Section > Bandwidth Limit drop down.
This can be changed during A/V chat and changes to the Bit rate iChat is using is shown in the Connection Doctor (Video Menu).
This is best used when Really Fast Buddies (Processors and Internet Speeds) can tend to "Over-run" lesser speeded Buddies. It can also help if your ISP manages the Bandwidth/Internet Connection speed making it run slower or faster at different times of the day (Also look at Fair Usage Policies).
There is no independent way to reduce the Frame rate that would have a direct effect on this.
There are other apps that do use less demanding picture quality that in turn effects the Frame rate which can effect the Bandwidth needed/Used
See this link http://www.ralphjohns.co.uk/page5.html#_other
Scroll to numbers 5 through 8 for Apps, 9 through 12 for Web Browser options.
13 is a PC app.
14 & 15 works in Video only to MSN Buddies.
The list does not have a reference to the Yahoo Beta 3 for Mac
http://messenger.yahoo.com/mac/
7:23 PM Wednesday; August 5, 2009
Please, if posting Logs, do not post any Log info after the line "Binary Images for iChat"

What is the best iTunes Equalizer settings for Bose QC15 Headphones?

What is the best iTunes Equalizer settings for the Bose QC15 Headphones? An image of those settings would be great.

I'm a bit of an audio geek, so I can tell you that YES whatever sounds right is what you want, but NO those settings are not very good. The general setting is "OK" but the values are extremely out of range. Take that setting and reduce the distance between the sliders and you're getting there. Look for example at how the other iTunes presets are made, the don't go that far from the horizontal middle, and for good reason.
When you play a recorded song, the song has usually been put through an extensive process of mixing, EQ and mastering before you got it, in order to get the best balance of all frequencies, to ensure the best sound accross a wide range of speakers and headphones, and to ensure the most important details and instruments are audible when played together.
All speakers are different, and that's where the idea of an EQ for the listener is introduced. The idea is to tweak the overall sound from your music player (iTunes) to compensate for the strengths and weaknesses of your speakers. Which to be honest, is a bit much to expect form a typical music consumer.
The iTunes EQ has a set of horizontal lines representing 3dB (volume steps) each. In my experience you should not boost or cut more than 6 db at the most - and that's a lot! I stay at around 0-4dB. The extreme options are there to cut noise from bad recordings or emphasize a detail you can't hear very well.
So here's basic EQ lesson:
The EQ represents the range frequencies in sound that the human ear can hear. Actually they go beyond that - most people cannot hear the far left and right frequencies. The range of frequencis start at "deep" or "low" frequencies at the left (bass) passing through the Midrange (midtones) in the center, to the (treble) at the right.
Your speaker has a limit to how many frequencies it can play at once before it starts to lose detail - meaning one sound will drown out in order to make room for another. So don't over-EQ your sound or it'll ruin it.
How to tweak an EQ:
1) Start by playing a well-produced piece of modern music - it'll most likely be well mixed and employ a wide range of frequencies. I'm into heavy metal but for this I'd probably go with some average pop music, because metal is so noisy it gets hard to pick out the details.
2) Set you EQ to FLAT - zero all accross the board. It'll sound pretty flat and boring unless your speakers are very "flavoured" or "colored" already.
Sliding any of the EQ bar up, will increase or boost the volume of the frequency the bar represents. You can't really add frequencies that aren't there already - you're just adding noise in that freqeuncy and that will "fill up" the available frequencies on your speaker, causing that "drowned out" effect I was talking about.
Instead, slide them down from the center, and you're cutting the volume instead. This is better because it'll leave more "room" for the other frequencies. You can always use the Preamp slider at the end if you're worried about loudness (but I wouldn't).
3) Start by tweaking the 500 and 1K slider. This represents the middle of your ears' range of hearing and the most noticable change. It should most likely go downwards - this will take the "canned" sound out of your music and that'll be apparent quickly. Go ahead and slide that down as far as -6dB.
4) Now work outwards from the center forming a "v" shape, where the top tips of the V end at the 64 slider and the 8k slider. The very far left and right sliders (32 and 16K) should dip down again to about 0bB. Trust me, these are almost non-important in most music. You can tweak thos last if you feel it's needed.
5) now it's time to start playing round with the V shape. Go ahead and try sliding the sliders a little up or down between 125-250 and 1K to 4K. You may find that some need to move a lot out of the average "V" shape before the sound is good. This is what my iTunes EQ settings ended up looking like for my Motörheadphones "Motorizer" headphones:
Hope it helps.

Optimal Settings for FCP6 on MacBook Pro?

Up until a week ago, I've worked mostly on a Mac Pro with Final Cut Studio 2. I've been fortunate enough to get a MacBook Pro (2.6Ghz) also outfitted with FCS2 and I'm wondering if there is such a thing as "optimal settings" for running FCS2 on the portable notebook.
I'm referring to such things as memory and cache settings and Playback control, etc. I would like the MBP to run FCS as efficiently as possible. I know I won't get the same power-crunching ability as the Mac Pro but does anyone have any ideas?
Thanks for any help.

We have a 2.4Ghz MBP with the 256 MB video card.
We have 4 GBs of RAM, which you should consider.
However, without indicating what codec and cam you will be using, there isn't much more to say.
If you are working with a DV or HDV camcorder, for example, use an ExpressCard 34 FW or eSATA card and an external HDD for media.
That creates independent FW buses if you go that route or a FW bus and a eSATA HDD connection.

Optimal headphone settings for Xfi XtremeMu

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