Optimal Playable Settings

I used to have an nVidia card and you could check the optimal playable settings for their cards for certain games on their website. I was wondering if anyone here knew of a similar tool for ATI cards? Some games just won't auto select the settings according to your system (Deus Ex: Human Revolution for example). Thanks in advance for any suggestions.

Quote from: Svet on 04-October-11, 04:34:48
http://www.pcgamer.com/2011/05/03/deus-ex-human-revolution-system-specs/
I've looked at the system requirements. Thank you though. I'm talking about each specific setting in the games graphic settings.

Similar Messages

Request for optimal calibration settings for Lenovo ThinkVision monitors

I understand one person's settings may not hold true for someone else's given display variances, but I would very much like to get anyone's suggested, optimal picture settings for each of the below two monitors.
Primarily monitor 1 looks way worse than monitor 2 for me, but I still want help with both. Models listed below. Please include each item/setting with # used so I can try them out and see if it helps.
Monitor 1: LEN L1900pA
Monitor 2: LEN LT1913pA
Thank you for your help!

Hi Jwhyrock,
Jwhyrock reply,
I played with settings on all 3 monitors. Not entirely sure I like what I did, but it is a bit better. I would still like to see what settings anyone else is using for their display such as contrast, brightness, color saturation etc.
Below is the link on how to setup the default calibration for display, please follow the steps. And also suggest you to check with resetting the Monitor to factory default setting in the monitor, or you can also check with installing Monitor .inf for the specific model which can be downloaded from the manufacturer link.
Display Calibration
Hope this helps!
Best regards,
Hemanth Kumar
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?Optimal Photoshop settings for slideshow-iMovie then iDVD

I know that there are many posts about file size and pixel size for optimizing photos prior to importing into iMovie or iDVD. I have read many of them, including many of them by Karl Petersen, but have been disappointed by the quality of the photos when viewed on the final DVD on my television. The problem I have it that almost ALL of my photos are portrait style and not landscape. A lot of the discussions center around avoiding pillarboxes, which I cannot avoid with vertical pictures
All of the photos are shot RAW on a Nikon D70 and imported into Photoshop.
Can anyone make recommendations on the optimal photoshop settings for creating the files to import for a slideshow in iDVD.
Specifically, in Photoshop, for vertically oriented pictures, what would be the recommendation for:
1) File size and best way to control that in Photoshop. Should I increase the file size on the original RAW image import? (I currently use the 2000x3008 6MP default)
2) Should each photo be cropped to an exact size or can I keep a specific aspect ratio instead?
3) Should I use a pixel aspect ratio other than normal? (These will all be viewed in the US )
4) Should the photos be imported into iMovie first and go through KB (even with no zooming) or can they go into iDVD?
Many Thanks!!!
Dual 1.42 MHz G4, 2 GB RAM Mac OS X (10.4.7) iMovieHD 6.0.2, iDVD 6.0.2

Since posting the test I suggested you run, Alesse, I've done some testing of my own, with some interesting results. They aren't going to help you much, I'm afraid, but they might shed some light on the whole process of making slideshows.
I do everything I can to maximize image quality in iMovie slideshows. Then I've wondered what affect iDVD has on the result.
So today I played the same slideshow from three sources. One version from the camera, one version from iDVD and one version from a Digital Video Recorder (DVR).
First I created a slideshow where the same photos were imported four different ways, each as a four 4-second clip. The test used rather simple photos, 1600x1200 jpegs, about 500k each, from an old Nikon Coolpix 950.
The images were delivered to the iMovie four ways:
1) I imported the sequence of images into QuickTime Player, then saved that as two DV streams, one Progressive and one Interlaced. These were dropped into the Media folder as described above. iMovie "adopted" them when I re-opened the project. (They were NOT imported by iMovie.)
2) I imported the same images with Ken Burns ON (but with no animation); and
3) I imported the same images with Ken Burns OFF.
The four clips of each image were arranged side-by-side on the Timeline, so I could easily compare their quality while played on the TV.
(The images were selected to include those that are easy to encode by iDVD and images difficult to encode — having lots of high-contrast lines like roof lines, lap-siding on buildings, telephone lines, the kind of content that tends to acquire the "jaggies". I avoided the bug where iMovie adds jaggies if you grant it permission to render UNrendered images as you export the project to iDVD or to the camera.)
I wanted to compare the quality of three kinds of slideshows:
1) the slideshow played from the camera;
2) the slideshow burned by iDVD and
3) the slideshow burned by a standalone DVR.
To make the three slideshows, I did this:
1) used iDVD to burn a DVD of the iMovie project;
2) exported the iMovie slideshow project back to the camera; and
3) connected the camera to a Digital Video Recorder (DVR) and burned a DVD on the DVR. This was so I could compare the quality of iDVD to a DVR recording.
Then I connected the camera to the TV so I could compare it, in turn, to each of the DVDs. Because each image played for a total of 16 seconds, I was able to play both the DVD and the camera simultaneously and switch the TV back and forth between the two inputs to compare the image quality of the camera to a DVD.
RESULT
• The camera image was superior in all respects to both the DVDs, as one would expect. Considerably better. There were virtually no jaggies. Subtler colors. Less contrast. iMovie 6 was obviously delivering the goods. Great quality, on every clip.
• At first I thought the DVR image was better than the iDVD image, but reconsidered that later. Each had its own positive qualities. There was little difference. Each was slightly better in some respects than the other, worse in others. It was basically a wash. Both had about the same amount of jaggies, sometimes in different places.
• Another interesting result was that all the clips — from all four sources — played basically the same on the camera and on the two DVDs. There was very little difference among the four import methods. (I expected more difference.)
• There WAS an obvious difference among clips played in iMovie, however. The DV stream exported as a DV Progressive movie displayed with better quality in iMovie itself. The difference wasn't huge, but it was sharper, more "life-like".
• It is obvious that encoding an iMovie project to the MPEG-2 format used by a DVD — whether by iDVD or by a DVR — sacrifices quality. You won't notice it much on some images — flowers, faces, landscapes — but you will see jaggies on others.
• When the test was over, I watched a DVD slideshow of the same images I had burned a few weeks ago containing three iMovie widescreen formats: DV Widescreen, 720p, and 1080i. It was a close call, but I think they were all slightly better than the DV slideshow. Some images, especially, were better.
CONCLUSIONS
If you want the best playback quality possible, use the camcorder to play the slideshow on the TV, not a DVD.
To avoid the jaggies, it may be necessary to avoid certain photos. It's hard to tell which those are until you play the DVD on a TV. Plan to burn a DVD, then purge the images that acquire bad jaggies and burn it again.
Softening the TV picture can help. My TV offers a tremendous range of sharpness, a feature common to new TVs.
• My guess is that until we can burn Hi-Def DVDs, our huger and huger TVs are going to make the problem of DVD quality worser and worser. My slideshows would probably all look great on yesterday's "huge" 20" TV.
• I don't have DVD Studio Pro to test. Perhaps someone can compare that too?
Anyway, I hope something here helps.
Karl

K7N2-L Most Optimized Bios Settings Required Please!

Hiya!
Any kind souls out there who can provide the best and most optimized BIOS setting for this board? Previously I recalled lots of nice people helping with their settings
Thank You!!
Benedict

Having now read the excellent post by klondike on this board I want to update my bios to the 11.50 (B50) version.
I know about all the dangers of updating your bios but as I am having prob’s with my board and it seems like the B5 bios is better that the B4, I want to update it but I have tried now for 2 hours to update it and I am obviously doing something very wrong and it is doing my head in!
I have read the MSI guide to bios updating and others on this forum but I can’t get anything to even start to work.
I have downloaded and un-zipped the B50 bios update for my board. I have put the unzipped files in a folder in the C: drive I have named “test” I have made a dos floppy and set my bios to 1st boot floppy but when I boot to it at the A prompt you type C: (and enter) and it says bad file or command (I can’t remember which) so I then tried burning the bios files to a cd and once again after booting to the dos there is no option to get it to boot or find the cd drive you just get the A: prompt
I have also tried updating it though live update but live update says the latest version is 11.4 (B4) and that is what my board already has so I can’t update it from there as MSI have not updated their live update page.
I am almost at my wits end and feel like setting light to the dam thing, all I want to do is up date my bios its not that hard I have done it before on other pc’s but I can’t remember how I did it! (thats my age)
Please can someone spare me a few minutes to talk me though this.

Optimal Bios settings....

Good to see the forum back up....
I have a k7n420 pro based system and just stuck in a gainward GF4 TI4200 golden sample, which is working out brilliantly, I mean 3dmarks around 9065! with standard fsb etc etc.
Anyway I saw a review of the card with a very similar system (same 1800 xp processor, 512 meg ddr memory, different mobo) and assuming they hadn't overclocked anything, they were getting 1K over my marks. I don't think that the different board would make that much difference.
so my question to you all is, what should I be looking at in the BIOS to ensure the board is running optimally at NORMAL clock speeds? I've seen settings for agp apature size etc and have no idea what effect they have to overall performance with an agp card. any ideas?
thanks for any advice
Rich.

A lot of times reviewers test different hardware configs with an immediate clean install of windows. You would not think it but the more apps (junk)you have that steal your ram and hard drive space will also degrade your performance. I have always found that windows os's are a heck of a lot speedier without all this junk, XP included. I wonder also alot of time that reviewers may get hand picked pieces to be reviewed, they use better quality ram in their machines than most of us. The absolute worst thing you can do, though, is download synthetic bench's like sandra and try to compare your performance to the samples of performance of a given setup.
Sandra is a freeking liar.
Ram timings are also a potential performance boost, but I don't think they would be worth 1000 marks.
Anyway, man, don't fret. At least it ain't crashing.
Wise

Optimal DBCP settings

Hi,
I was wondering what people's thoughts were on what the optimal maxWait and maxActive DBCP settings should be for approx. 500 - 600 concurrent users?
Any info. would be greatly appreciated!!
Thanks,
Pete

Are you closing all connections in your Java app? If not, that might explain why your app fails.

NOKIA N81 8GB optimal video settings

can any one please tell me the optimal settings to set in the video converter for getting HQ video playback in my device???

From site search:
/discussions/board/message?board.id=imaging&message.id=760&query.id=249197#M760

Z77Z-GD65 + i3770S optimal BIOS settings?

Hi,
I just assembled my new build with Z77A-GD65 MB + i3770S CPU + 8 GB G.Skill Sniper (1.25V) RAM + 2 SSDs & 1 HDD (using Integrated Graphics).
My goal is to keep power consumption as low as possible 95% of the time, but kick into higher speed when needed for photo processing, etc.
No Overclocking, but would like Intel Turbo Boost active.
1) If I enable Eco mode power saving features, will Turbo Boost still operate as needed?
2) I don’t have to select either Eco Mode – Standard Mode – or OC Genie Mode before booting? I’m assuming all 3 modes work when needed?
3)What about Intel C-States? I’ve read about many BSODs using C-states & OC-ing, but nothing for normal frequencies. Has anyone found optimal C-State settings that work with EuP 2013, C1E, and Turbo Boost?
Any other recommendations?
Thanks!
P

I agree, Optimized defaults + C1E should be good enough for what you planning. C-States Auto or No Limits will do. Also you can monitor in real time with Intel Power Gadget.

4 LSA architecture - EDW layer - write optimized DSO settings

Dear Colleagues,
I have a question regarding the 4 LSA architecture, available on the following article.
http://www.sdn.sap.com/irj/scn/index?rid=/library/uuid/306f254c-1e3f-2d10-9da0-bcff4e35e0ef
When we activate a SAP business content dataflow.
If we want to add in the EDW layer write optimized DSO to have a faster upload from source system to SAP BI.
Should we always check the" do not check uniqueness of data" setting in the write optimized DSO to avoid data upload error ?
Based on your experience what would be your recommendation ?
Cheers,

I would suggest to check "ON"
-If the check is ON It will allow to load several records with same semantic key and in next layer
-If the check is OFF It will not allow to load same record twice and throws error
Did you seen this ?
/people/martin.mouilpadeti/blog/2007/08/24/sap-netweaver-70-bi-new-datastore-write-optimized-dso
Edited by: Srinivas on Aug 24, 2010 2:16 PM

Optimal import settings for iTunes

Hi guys.
I would like to ask a few questions about optimising the import settings in iTunes.
I am happy with the iTunes download quality but I see for importing CD's I can choose 320kbps rather than the 256kbps.
If I choose 320kbps, is every CD able to give me that quality? What are CD's made in?
Also I can choose a sample rate of 44.100kHz and 48.000kHz with Mono and Stereo. Which should I choose for best quality. I will use my iPhone, speaker doc and for music and movie creation.
Thanks in advance guys.
Andrew

Thank you so much for that link. Answered my questions and got me thinking.
With a little more research I found a guy who tested 12 CD's from his collection and found the bit rate for the CD's ranged between 798 to 1411kbps. Interesting.
Thanks again.
Andrew

Looking For Optimal Wireless Settings For Multiple WRT310N's

Folks, I have 3 Linksys WRT310N routers (all at the most current level firmware) around my house serving as both wired and wireless access points. I have Verizon DSL service (3 MB) as my ISP. We have a couple of IBM T60p laptops (w/Win XP Pro), a Lenovo S12 netbook (w/Win 7), and my son also has an Apple iPod Touch all that access our home network via the wireless network provided by the WRT310N's. The WRT310N's all have unique static IP addresses (DHCP disabled - IP addresses being issued by the Verizon DSL modem/router). My current wireless settings are as follows:
Wireless / Basic Wireless Setings:
Wireless Configuration = Manual
Network Mode = Mixed
Network Name (SSID) = (something other than linksys!)
Radio Band = Auto
Wide Channel = Auto
Standard Channel = Auto
SSID Broadcast = Enabled (Need enabled or the Apple iPod Touch will not find the wireless network)
Wireless / Wireless Security:
Security Mode = WPA2 Personal
Encryption = TKIP or AES
Passphrase = (Something really clever here!)
Key Renewal = 3600 seconds
Wireless / Wireless MAC Filter:
Enabled (With all the appropriate MAC addresses permitted)
Wireless / Advanced Wireless Settings:
AP Isolation = Enabled
Frame Burst = Enabled
Authentication Type = Auto (greyed out - can NOT change)
Basic Rate = Default
Transmission Rate = Auto (greyed out - can NOT change)
N Transmission Rate = Auto
CTS Protection Mode = Auto
Beacon Interval = 100
DTIM Interval = 1
Fragmentation Threshold = 2346
RTS Threshold = 2347
My goal is obviously to provide the best performance on all the wireless devices that we have. Since the laptops and netbook have a variety of OS's (and sometimes our neighbor comes over with his Mac laptop) I'd like to keep it flexable for those PC's and the Apple iPod Touch. I've also read that if you have multiple wireless access points you should set them all to different channels. If so, which channels? Or, should they all be on the same channel so one could walk from room to room without losing their wireless connection? Since I have 3 WRT310N's I'm interested in what recommendations there are for performance to keep the laptops and netbook communicating using wireless "N" yet keeping compatible for the Apple iPod Touch on wireless "G". Thank you all in advance for any advice or info.

Hmmmm, for quite some time I've left the SSID the same on all the WRT310N routers. At one time a while back I was told to do this by a Linksys technician. They all are cascaded (LAN-to-LAN via the ethernet ports) off of the 4 ethernet ports on the Verizon DSL modem/router in the similar manner described in the following article:
http://www6.nohold.net/Cisco2/ukp.aspx?vw=1&docid=785463d9ecaf4cac84aed245b08d615f_3733.xml&pid=96&s...
(Switch) ethernet port 1 on each WRT310N is connected to ports 1 through 3 on the Verizon DSL modem/router. Hence, each WRT310N is acting as an access point (wired and wireless) throughout the house. I do NOT use the 'Internet' port on any of my WRT310N routers. They each have a static (fixed) IP address like 192.16.1.10, 192.168.1.11 and 192.168.1.12. They all reside on the same LAN subnet as my Verizon DSL modem/router which is responsible for issuing DHCP IP addresses for the entire home network. The remaining (switched) ethernet ports 2, 3, and 4 on each WRT310N is left open for local hard-wired devices like printers and multimedia devices (like XBox 360, etc.). So bottom line is that each WRT310N is acting like a 4-port network switch that also has wireless capabilities (like a WAP).
By keeping the SSID the same on all the WRT310N routers I can keep a single wireless profile on each device (i.e... PC's) for my entire house. So I can go and access WRT310N #1 (with let's say with SSID 'ABC') in my living room and later go into my home office room and access WRT310N #2 (with the same SSID - 'ABC') with the same wireless profile. I believe it is the same concept used when someone stays at a hotel and accesses their public wireless network. That way the hotel customers only have to set their SSID to let's say 'HILTON' regardless of which floor or room they are in.
So the part that I'm really focusing on is the wireless performance aspect. My laptops like to operate on 'N' and get pretty good connection speeds (usually receive around 270 Mbps). The Apple iPod Touch (2nd generation) only goes up to 'G' so I believe I need to keep a 'Mixed' Network Mode. The part I'm not so sure about is the Channel Width and whether or not all 3 Linksys routers should be on the same channel (or set to Auto) or if I should manually set the channels and provide some separation between their channels. That's where 'Channel Width' and 'Channel' settings get a bit over my head. Now when I previously had multiple 'G' Linksys routers I contacted Linksys Technical Support and they said to use the same SSID and that I should separate the channels, but that was with their earlier 'G' versions. Now that I have a more recent [N] version and the channel settings can be 'Auto' I'm wondering if the correct settings would still be to again separate the channels or maybe leave it up to the routers to function in 'Auto' mode.
And if I need to set each router up individually what recommended settings should they be? As follows:
WRT310N #1:
Network Mode = Mixed
Channel Width = ?
Channel = ?
WRT310N #2:
Network Mode = Mixed
Channel Width = ?
Channel = ?
WRT310N #3:
Network Mode = Mixed
Channel Width = ?
Channel = ?
Here is a Cisco web page that I'm using as a reference:
http://www6.nohold.net/Cisco2/ukp.aspx?pid=80&vw=1&articleid=21194
I'm also looking for any suggestions on tuning the Advanced Wireless Settings like Beacon Interval, Fragmentation Threshold, RTS Threshold, etc. Again, my wireless user devices are both G and N and have various OS's.
Thank you again in advance for all your help!!

Optimal export settings for filesize?

I have a 3 minute 30s movie, 30 fps, put together from clips that I captured using camtasia studio. It's 676px x 408px.
I've edited it together in premiere cs4, but I'm having issues trying to get a good balance between filesize and quality. The best I manages with quicktime was 60mb while retaining quality, the best with mpeg-2 was 122mb.
This is out of my area of expertise but those numbers seem high. I created a quicktime version that was 30mb, but the quality was terrible,
Please could anyone give me some suggestions on which codecs and settings I should be looking at to try and get the filesize down?

I find H.264 to give me the best quality with the smallest file. But there's really no magic formula here. Trial and error is the name of the game when it comes to specific settings.

Optimal headphone settings for Xfi XtremeMu

I've just bought myself some nice new Sennheiser HD595 headphones and I'd like to do most of my music listening through my computer (CDs and DVD-As played through the dri've in the computer), but I'd like some advice on how to set my Xfi XtremeMusic card to the right settings.
I've fiddled around and found that the Crystaliser does make the sound sharper, but I'm worried that it might be obscuring other sounds or distorting the noise somehow to achieve this effect (I'm fairly fanatical about getting the best possible sound out of my music - "the way the musician intended it to be heard" or something like that).
I've also swapped between the 2. speaker setting and the headphone setting and can't really decide which one sounds better - although at higher volume the 2. speaker setting has a constant fuzz in the background. However, some of the other posts on this board suggest that 5. is the best setting for headphones.
I also tried the CMSS-3D headphone setting and it definitely sounds worse, like the sound is wrongly positioned around my head.
Basically, I'm just a little overwhelmed by the sheer number of permutations and combinations in the sound settings, and would like some advise on how to tweak it to the best music-listening effect.

In the config. consoles I think it's better to leave it as headphones or 2. speakers. Since you have to plug the headphones to the line-out jack if you configure as 5. you'll lose the center, sub and rears when listening to surround content. When you use a 5./7. setup, CMSS "fills" the missing channels with the stereo source. With headphones it makes stereo music more?"upfront" so it doesn't sound "inside the head", but according to some reviews, the HD595s have already?an upfront soundstage. CMSS 3D is nice when you listen to 5. DD/DTS content with headphones, the spatialization is pretty good and I prefer it over the basic stereo?downmix (or even dolby headphone), but you might want to turn it off for stereo content (mostly music) as it changes sligthly the sound (you already noticed that).
CMSS 3D is almost a must for games, it enables MacroFX and elevation filter (in UT2003 let a manta run over you, you'll immediately notice the difference), just enable also bass boost for games, it tends to favor mids and highs.

K8T Neo-FIS2R - 3200+ - Mushkin Level 1 RAM: Optimal Memory Settings

Just got a K8T Neo-FIS2R with a AMD Athlon 64 3200+ with 1g (512MB X
2) Mushkin Level 1 PC3500 RAM as recommended by Anandtech on his High
End System roundup:
www.anandtech.com/guides/showdoc.html?i=2041
I am having a HUGE problems with memory settings in the BIOS.
On AUTO, the memory is only autodected at DDR200, which I found odd.
I them took memory setting in my old hands and things don't seem much
better:
I made these changes:
MEMCLOCK: DDR400
BANK INTERVEAVING: AUTO
BURST LENGTH: 8 BEAT
CL: 2
TRCD: 3
TRAS: 5
TRP: 2
This was unstable at first and bumped the DDR Voltage to 2.7, moved
the sticks to DIMM1 and DIMM3 (instead of DIMM2), and it seems stable,
but not very fast. according to Sandra Scores
Any recommendations for Memory Settings? Why would the MB not
autodecte DDR400 RAM? I am not looking to overlock...just maximize
the CPU and memory I have.
Maybe I just need to get new memory. What is the best memory for this motherboard?
Thanks,
Steve

I'm running the same mem (see my sig). Since its PC3500 I attempted to tighten the settings to those you had listed (2,3,2,5). It was not Prime95 torture test stable at even the stock 200 MHz FSB using these settings. Upping the voltage to 2.7 did not increase the stability in my system at these settings. The memory ran perfectly at AUTO settings, but was clocked at 2.5,3,3,8 I believe.
Keep in mind that level 1 is advertised at 2,3,3. My system is 100% stable at 2.7V for me up to 210 MHz FSB at these settings (I haven't tried any faster). My TRAS is set to 6.
Hope this helps a fellow Mushkin user

Optimal Bios Settings? K7N2 Delta

I would like to Optimize my Boards settings.
Running 2100+ chip
400FSB Ram
When my computer boots up it says DDR something 300.
Does this mean its not running at 400FSB? Or does 400FS really matter?
Also I have 2 sticks of Ram should I have them in Slot 1 and 2 ?
Manual said something about Slot 1/3 and Slot 2/3 for Dual 128bit mode or something.. Does it make a difference?
Thanx!

2100 is 266fsb and with memory at 400fsb set bios to fsb/dram ratio to 1:1 this will slow memory to the same as processor for stable, or just set to 200 fsb in bios, may cause problems, duel channel then slot 1 and 3 or 2 and 3 don't matter if it not duel channel then any but best in 1 and 2.
slot 3 being green 1 and 2 purple.

Optimal Playable Settings

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