Optitek ProLock Mark II Canon issues

Hi there Ever since purchase I've had continueing problems with the Optitek ProLock Mark II Canon adaptor - namely the "iris" control never (or very rarely) appears to work. I've tried everything and the 'Initialise' button always works fine showing up lens information but just cannot open or close the 'iris' Anyone else had similar problems? Cheers Paul

I have exactly the same issues with my Mark II, Eric.It initiallizes at random half way through the day or randomly flicks through aperture, often when closing down a few clicks it jumps back up... I too have a Mark I which I trusted more as I could unplug power to avoid ruining shots after I had set the aperture, but you loose IS and the ability to quickly react to changing light etc... The Mark I now has started being funny with me as well, so thinking of changing system, as it's a major headache!Especially considering the price of these adapters! I have noticed that both Mark I and Mark II seemed to react quite allergicly to very high or very low temperatures! Above 35 Degrees Celsius (95 Fahrenheit) or around freezing temperatures the adapter would start ****** out and initialize or stop up/down randomly... Anyone else ran into climate issues with the Optitek Prolocks?

Similar Messages

For Sale: Optitek ProLock i Mark II FZ to EF

Hi I am selling my Pro Lock i Mark II adapter. I have switched to a Canon CN7 so no longer require the adapter for my EF glass. Very good condition will accept £850.00. See it here: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Optitek-ProLock-i-Mark-II-FZ-to-EF-Lens-Adapter-F5-F55-/141717280914?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&hash=item20ff021892 Kindly PM if interested. Regards, Hugh

I have exactly the same issues with my Mark II, Eric.It initiallizes at random half way through the day or randomly flicks through aperture, often when closing down a few clicks it jumps back up... I too have a Mark I which I trusted more as I could unplug power to avoid ruining shots after I had set the aperture, but you loose IS and the ability to quickly react to changing light etc... The Mark I now has started being funny with me as well, so thinking of changing system, as it's a major headache!Especially considering the price of these adapters! I have noticed that both Mark I and Mark II seemed to react quite allergicly to very high or very low temperatures! Above 35 Degrees Celsius (95 Fahrenheit) or around freezing temperatures the adapter would start ****** out and initialize or stop up/down randomly... Anyone else ran into climate issues with the Optitek Prolocks?

"Canonical Issue" and 301 Redirecting?

Hi.
A SEO optimisation company has pointed out that our site
doesn't have a 301
Redirect which they state is required to avoid a "canonical
issue" with the
http://domain.com and
http://www.domain.com addresses
for our site. Out
host allows both to act as the address for the site but the
SEO company are
suggesting that this could lead to "duplicate penalties" with
Google?
I've never heard of this, can anyone shed any light on it, or
confirm/contest what the SEO are telling us?
If it is so bad, why is our host allowing it?
Thanks
Regards
Nath

Michael, will a .htaccess file work on a Windows server?
If not, is there a Windows alternative? I've uploaded the
following
.htaccess file to my Windows server but my SEO is still
telling me that
there is a problem:
<IfModule mod_rewrite.c>
RewriteEngine on
RewriteCond %{HTTP_HOST} !^domain\.co.uk$ [NC]
RewriteRule .*
http://www.domain.co.uk
[L,R=301]
</IfModule>
Appreciate the assistance, thanks.
Nath.
"Michael Fesser" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]..
> .oO(gareth)
>
>>At the worst, the search engines can see it as two
different sites, ie
>>with
>>the same content at two different addresses, and will
slap a duplicate
>>content penalty on you. Doesn't happen to everyone,
but can happen.
>
> And it can become even worse if you don't watch your
links:
>
>
http://example.com/
>
http://www.example.com/
>
http://example.com/index.html
>
http://www.example.com/index.html
>
> Four different URLs, but in fact (usually) the same
resource. For SEO
> and cache-friendlyness that's a really bad thing.
>
>>The solution is to either change the httpd.conf file
(for apache) to do a
>>permanent redirect from domainname.com to
www.domainname, or if you don't
>>have access to your server configuration, create a
.htaccess file in the
>>root directory of your site containing:
>
> Personally I prefer the version without the leading
'www' (for nicer,
> shorter URLs), but YMMV.
>
>><IfModule mod_rewrite.c>
>>RewriteEngine on
>>RewriteCond %{HTTP_HOST} !^example\.com$ [NC]
>>RewriteRule .*
http://example.com/ [L,R=301]
>></IfModule>
>
> Just for the records my general version, also taking
into account the
> URL path, not only the host name:
>
> RewriteCond %{HTTP_HOST} ^www\.(.*)$
> RewriteRule (.*)
http://%1/$1 [R=301,L]
>
> So
>
>
http://www.example.com/foo/bar
will become
http://example.com/foo/bar
>
> Micha

Canon 5D Mark II Export Issues

So, I shot some footage on the 5D and have edited them together. Every time I try to export the footage it always turns out choppy or lags. It's not as smooth as the original footage even though I set the export settings to 30 fps as is native to the footage.
The video is going to end up on the web, but I need the video to remain as high quality as possible so my web guy can have as much freedom as possible in manipulating the video when i get it to him. He has a PC, so however I export it...it has to be PC compatible.
Does anyone have any idea how I ought to export the file? What settings I ought to use? I have FCP 6, Quicktime Pro, Compressor if that helps at all.

Shane - I know this was posted a while back, but I wanted to ask you more on the practice of converting H.264 5DM2 files to ProRes422. It seems wasteful (or inefficient) to take a file that is so compressed (and I think 4:2:0) and create a new one that is roughly 4x larger in 4:2:2. I've compared the resulting file to the original, and of course it is not as good as the original, slightly more compressed looking, although I understand it is much less compressed. I get that the ProRes422 file will hold up better in Color or even within a FCP sequence when Color Correction filter is applied, but what if you're working on a less robust system like a Macbook Pro / external FW drive? Large (gigantic) ProRes files are difficult to move quickly and often too much for non-RAID editing when it comes to multiple streams. Do you ever convert the 5DM2 files to XDCAM or something other than ProRes? Have you found a solid alternative to ProRes422. I think there are a lot of editors that would appreciate your take, and consider that not everybody has the latest version of Compressor (ProRes LT). Thanks, -s

Need advice, 5d mark ii autofocus issues

Hello everyone!
Me and my 5D mark ii need some advice. I bought it some years ago, but didn't use it too much until the last year or so (long story) and I really should have, since the warranty is long expired :/
I'm having issues with autofocus. I was shooting some product photos in studio when I realized that this was a pretty big issue, I've just told myself that it was a user error other times when a shot was out of focus, but this was getting serious and I'm honestly not that horrible of a photographer
I recently also purchased the spyder lenscal, to check if it could be my lenses (though it did seem weird that this issue would affect ALL my lenses, and that it would only happen sometimes) and with my first test I took a photo and it looked a little off center, so I did a minor micro adjustment, turned the focus ring all out, made the camera focus and take a photo, and the focus was now WAY off. I found it odd, so I simply turned the focus ring again, focused and took another shot, and this time the focus was almost spot on. Oh, I only used center af point, the red point shows focus where I wanted it. I did the above several more times, in good lighting and camera on tripod, and some photos turned out pretty sharp while others were completely out of focus. I own 2 lenses, 17-40 and 50mm, and this happens on both though it seems to happen less frequently with the 17-40. I also find the autofocus hunting something fierce from time to time, no matter if it's in a well lit studio, outdoors or indoors.
Have anyone else had this issue and had it fixed at a certified canon service center? I'm trying to figure out if it's worth fixing or if it's time looking for a new camera. Honestly, I do want it fixed. I bought this camera with a small inheritance, investing in a camera that was going to stay with me for as long as possible as I usually dont have the funds to buy new ones that often. I'm afraid that sending it in for repair will cost so much that it would be wiser to just get a new one.
I'm guessing there isn't anything I can do myself about this issue. Does anyone know how much approximately it costs to get something like this fixed?
Sorry for the wall of text, and thank you for any advice you can give me.

Here are several ideas...
Okay, first of all you wrote you are seeing the same issues with both lenses: 17-40 and a 50mm.
Which 50mm? If it's the 50/1.8, it's a micro motor lens with a reputation for somewhat iffy auto focus. Many folks who try to Micro Focus Adjust it eventually give up, because it isn't very consistent. It also tends to hunt a lot in lower light. You probably would see better results with only the center point and this lens, but a USM lens such as the EF 50/1.4 or similar would give much faster, more consistent AF.
The 17-40 is an f4 lens... so can't take full advantage of the f2.8 sensitivity of the center AF point. Still, as an USM lens, it should focus more surely and quickly than the EF 50/1.8.
What focus mode are you using? One Shot or AI Servo?
See the AF point pattern in the above response? Note the 6 points right around the center one (roughly on or within the circle denoting the spot focus area), making for a total of 15? Those are "hidden" Assist Points that have to be enabled in the menu, are not indicated in the viewfinder and only work in AI Servo focus mode. The other nine points (center one, plus 8 peripheral), as seen indicated in the viewfinder, are available in both One Shot and AI Servo. For the type of photography you are doing, I'd be using One Shot, which gives greater accuracy than AI Servo. (Notes: 1. Above ignores AI Focus mode... because it really isn't a focus mode at all. In AI Focus the camera is supposed to decide for you whether or not the subject is moving, then switch to using the appropriate mode: AI Servo for moving and One Shot for stationary subjects. 2. Live View focusing uses contrast detection AF instead of phase detection that's done with the AF points seen in the viewfinder, is even more accurate than One Shot, although it's much slower.)
Of the nine "usual" AF points, on 5DII (and 5D original for that matter), yes, only the center one is the more sensitive "cross" type. All the others are single axis an less sensitive. However, for the types of things you shoot, they should all be usable. The 5DII's AF system is rated down to about -.5 or -1.0 EV light levels, if memory serves. I find the center point on mine is actually a little better in low light than my 7Ds or, before them, 50Ds... all of which are rated the same as the 5DII. Slower, yes, but still able to lock on after the 7Ds and 50Ds gave up completely.
Anyway, I most often use the center point only on my 5DII (and with other cameras). You do have to be a bit careful focusing and recomposing, though, with any shallow depth of field shots.
Regarding calibrating your lenses using MFA... I haven't used the product you mention and don't know how you are using it.. Canon and Reikan Focal both recommend the "target" for most lenses be at a distance 50X the focal lenght of the lens. So a 50mm lens would have a target 2500mm or 2.5 meters (or about 8 feet) away. A zoom lens is harder to MFA.... you probably should check it at both extremes of the focal length range and if they aren't the same (seldom are) might need to arrive at an average amount of adjustment or skew it a little toward one end or the other that you use most. (Note: newer cameras with a later version of the MFA feature allow for two adjustments to zoom lenses, one at each end of the zoom range.)
Also, I've heard of folks having trouble doing calibration indoors, in artificial light. In particular, any common fluorescent lamps can mess with AF. Best if possible to do it outdoors in sunlight or light overcast or light shade.
Stopping down to f11, you should get a lot of depth of field that would hide most minor focus errors, unless the subject is very close (i.e., near macro distances).
If the camera and lenses haven't been used much, you might try cleaning the lens to camera electronic contacts. I recommend just lightly dampening a clean, lint free rag with a few drops of isopropyl (rubbing) alcohol and carefully wiping the contacts with that. There might be finger oils or something on them effecting AF performance.
It also might be worth having the camera cleaned. Perhaps some dust has settled on the AF sensor array or on the mirror that's effecting AF performance. I don't recommend trying to clean these yourself, perhaps aside from a puff of air from a bulb blower.
How are you viewing and evaluating your images? I ask because many people make the mistake of over magnifying images.... looking at a 5DII's image at 100% is like looking at a five or six foot wide print from 18" away... so close that minor and meaningless flaws are bound to be seen. I usually evaluate image focus and sharpness at 50% or 33% with my cameras (though I do work on images at higher magnifications for other reasons).
Also, some softwares can be a little "flaky". I use Lightroom extensively and have to be careful. When I open an image at even moderate magnifications in the Develop module, it takes a while to load, showing an enlarged thumbnail intially that always looks poorly focused... And I find if I have the crop tool active, it takes even a little longer to render the image correctly and show it's true sharpness and focus accuracy.
Finally... do you have any filters on the lenses? If so, try some tests without any filters. I have seen filters effect AF performance. If not using one it's possible a lens hood might help, too, by keeping oblique light off the front of the lens.
All that being said, it is possible something is wrong with the camera and you should have it (and the lenses) looked at.
Hope this helps! Keep us posted.
Alan Myers
San Jose, Calif., USA
"Walk softly and carry a big lens."
GEAR: 5DII, 7D(x2), 50D(x3), some other cameras, various lenses & accessories
FLICKR & PRINTROOM

5d mark 1 focus issues

i am having critical focus issues with my eos 5d mark 1 in soft light without contrast. i have the problem with all of my l series lenses. i get a confirmation beep with the autofocus when the square i have enabled gets focus lock; however, the resluting photograph is focused at least 1-2 feet in back of where it should be. is it possible that my mirror is out of alignment? has anyone else had this problem?

Have you tried using just the single center AF point in those conditions? That's the way most seem to get the best results on the forums I read. (any it applies to most Canon bodies up to the D3 / 1Dx.). I rarely shoot in low light so can't say how my cameras do, but I read a lot of messages asking for a better AF in the next generation of whatever body they have.
"A skill is developed through constant practice with a passion to improve, not bought."

2008 imac - beachball lock ups and no-boot 'question mark in file' issue

Firstly apologies am new to this forum.. am happy imac user (2008) but recently my imac is freezing in use and/or failing to boot on startup; the grey screen showing for a bit and then a file with a question mark in it. This now happens frequently and I find my self having to wait hours before my mac will boot. I have looked through forum responses and tried disk repair utility, but that showed no problems other than repairing a few permissions - also downloaded and run EtreCheck - but again nothing obvious, although I'll readily concede I don't really know what I looking for. Before I sadly head off on a long journey to a Genius Bar appointment maybe for a new hard drive?? Can anyone suggest anything please - all advice welcome. Thank you

Hi triffiid,
I'm sorry to hear about the issues you've been having with your Mac. If you are currently booting to a grey screen with a flashing question mark, you may find the troubleshooting steps outlined in the following article helpful (apologies if you have already seen it):
Mac OS X: Gray screen appears during startup
http://support.apple.com/kb/ts2570
Regards,
- Brenden

PIXMA Pro9000 Mark II print issue with Mac

I am having issues printing photos. The picture comes out really dark, and the color is not right. I am using the latest version of Mac. How can I fix this issue?

Hi droidus,
iPhoto is good for basic printing, but it offers very little in the way of color correction beyond the basic print quality settings. If you are printing professionally with the Pro9000 Mark II I would recommend using a program that givse you more control over how the picture comes out such as Photoshop.
Did this answer your question? Please click the Accept as Solution button so that others may find the answer as well.

5d Mark III AF issues... need help!

I bought this camera in march of this year and its never missed a shot. One week ago I noticed it was not focusing properly. I was in an indoor arena practicing low light so I didnt think anything of it. I have been adjusting settings all week now and CANNOT get it to focus properly. Even resetting it to original settings did nothing for it. I use a 70-200 f 2.8L almost always, however, last friday I experimented with both a 50mm and external flash. I have a 2 day horse show to do this weekend, I need this this to work! has anyone experienced this or have any insight? TIA

If it isn't doing what you want it to do, it's extremely beneficial to pinpoint exactly what it is doing.
To this end, you'll need to do some proper focus tests. Real-world subjects are lousy for this because you cannot take specific measurements. It's much better to use a test target.
I have a commercially made target (e.g. Datacolor "Sypder LensCal" or a "LensAlign"). But you can also get a test target that you can download and print from the Internet... such as this one: http://regex.info/blog/photo-tech/focus-chart
The idea behind these is that you'll careful test conditions to isolate any other reason for the camera not focusing accurately.
Mount your camera on a tripod and now you know that the lens isn't moving and the camera isn't moving (so there's no blaming the photographer for not being steady).
Place the test target at the prescribed distance (follow the instructions that come with the chart. The distance will depend on the focal length of the lens.)
Select the focus point you plan to test (e.g. center point focus). CAREFULLY algin the camera so the focus point being tested is on the high-contrast test-target position.
Make sure the camera is using "One Shot" AF mode (not AI Servo -- use "One Shot" for stationary targets such as this one.)
I deliberately de-focus the lens in one direction ... for example manually turn the focus ring to minimum focus distance. There are two reasons for this... (a) I want to make sure the camera MUST adjust focus on each and every test) and (b) I want to know the direction that the camera had to move focus in order to achieve focus (e.g. if it was set to minimum focus distance then the camera must move focus out. If it was focused to "infinity" then I know the camera must move the focus in.
Take notes so you know where focus started and which direction it has to move focus.
And since 1 sample does not make a trend... you'll need to shoot at least a half-dozen shots for each direction of your test.
The chart is laying back at an angle. This means if the camera is "front focusing" you'll notice the areas on the chart that are a bit closer have better focus than those at the intended target position. If it's "back focusing" you'll see the opposite.
If the camera CONSISTNTLY misses focus (say it's always just slightly back-focusing) then you can adjust this using the camera's built-in auto-focus micro-adjustments (see your manual).
If it is NOT CONSISTENT then you have a different problem and the lens may require service.
The focus mechanism is mechanical... glass and other parts are moving to focus. Gears can develop backlash or "slop". This means if you move focus in one direction, then reverse to move focus in the other direction... a certain amount of free travel could occur before the lens actually starts moving again.
The bottom line... using good testing conditions to figure out exactly what your lens is doing. It also means that if you do decide to send the camera and body in to Canon then you can describe the issue more accurately.
For further reading: http://www.lensrentals.com/blog/2008/12/this-lens-is-soft-and-other-myths
Tim Campbell
5D II, 5D III, 60Da

Has any resolved the iMac- Canon issue?

I use Canon 1DX linked to iMac to do micro photography. Since I upraded to OS x 10.75 the utility crashes before it loads. Has anyone resolved he issue?

Does the swf play that way on other computers besides your own?

Ibook page mark and highlight issues

I had iPad for about 5 months. I had no problem until recently with the page mark and highlight in ibook. I can't seem to mark the pages(no respond) Sometimes it marks the previous page and when I highlight the sentence, it highlights it and also
highlights couple of streaks all the way bottom of pages on different pages.
Can anyone help resolve this problems? Thank you.

Mrtimoteo wrote:
Ya, only thing that is odd is that I haven't heard or seen anyone with a similiar issue. I would think they would make it compitable to a new laptop especially a laptop which they express to have extreme mobility and power.
Someone else here with a Retina MacBook might be able to report whether they are experiencing problems with IBA on their machine.
But here is the other issue, no matter what setting I put it on the chapter pages are all broken up with white area in between. Its really odd. I have tried deleting and re-installing the application but nothing changes.
If you've re-installed IBA, you've probably done all you can. If there is an Apple Store in your area, you could take the MacBook to their Genius Bar and see whether they can help.
So it seems like a screen size issue, but why wouldnt they fix that.
Possibly, you are just the first one to notice?
Michi.

InDesign CC 2014 Marks and Bleeds Issue

Hello Everyone,
So I'm trying to export this InDesign file into a PDF with the usual crops/marks/bleeds that I always use, but for some reason this time it isn't working right. I have my bleed settings to .125, my slug is at 0, my images have been dragged past the red crop line on the design file, but for some reason the crop marks are in the white outline area instead of inside the bleed like they're supposed to be. Can someone please tell me what I'm doing wrong here? This ad is due pretty soon so I would be most appreciative for quick replies!
Thanks,
Krystin

I set the export using document bleed settings. Below are images of the design file itself, my document setup, and my marks and bleeds settings in my export box. Thank you for all your help!

How do I fix flashing question-mark-file-icon issue on reboot?

My Mac Book Air 11" has been a bit strange recently, so I decided that a full clean would be a good idea. I had no important files I wanted to keep, so i went ahead and reinstalled the OS. Apparently that doesn't delete everything, so I did some research. Apparently I have to delete the drive. So I did, using the command-r method. I erased my HD and made a new one, but upon reboot I get this flashing-question-mark-file icon. How do I fix this?

After you erased the drive, did you install the OSX?
Ciao

EOS 5D Mark III Lightroom Issues

I have a very old Mac Book Pro, running on 2 gigs of memory and the last version of software that this Mac will take. With that being said, is there any Lightroom program I can use to work my files in RAW from my new 5D Mark III?
I travel a lot, so I'd like to be able to use my Mac on the road to see some of my files.
I have a Windows 8 desktop at home and the newest version of Lightroom and Photoshop CC on it.
But for the life of me, I cannot find a Lightroom version that works with the new Raw files this camera puts out.
Any help and/or suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks!

I haven't used a Mac in a decade or more, but I believe you need Lightroom 4 or 5 to handle 5D III RAW files. Your Mac OS may not be able to handle one of the later versions of LR. You can check the Adobe site for compatibility: which version of LR is needed for 5D III and which version of Mac OS is needed to run that version of LR.
A fairly simple solution would be to shoot RAW + JPEG and only copy the JPEGs to your older computer. Those should be viewable with any version of LR or other s'ware you might have on the computer. You probably wouldn't want to do any serious editing, but at least could check the files. To conserve space, you might set the JPEGs to one of the smaller sizes.
Alan Myers
San Jose, Calif., USA
"Walk softly and carry a big lens."
GEAR: 5DII, 7D(x2), 50D(x3), some other cameras, various lenses & accessories
FLICKR & PRINTROOM

Canon Issues. As with everyone else.

I've had great success with Canon and iMovie on my macbook. Now It's time to use the GL2 with FCE on my G5. It worked the first couple of times, then it quit recognizing it... but I was still able to use capture now. However, today is a new day.
When connecting the GL2 via FW400 I see it in the system profiler as an "Unknown Device." If I daisy chain it through my Lacie 2BigTriple (FW800) I get nothing...
The GL2 has also been known to freeze FCE and then "disconnect" my lacie. It then takes forever to restart... unless I unplug or turn off the camera.
Basically, Why won't Canon cameras connect? This is crazy and I have myself because I have an HV20 being shipped to me tomorrow at 10:30 am. Was this a mistake? (as in should I have bought a Sony...) Will I ever be able to connect this camera to my ol' computer?

The problem is the Firewire implementation on the Canon camera. Disconnect your Lacie drive (and any other Firewire devices connected to your G5). Make sure your GL2 is the only device connected to the G5's Firewire ports. Capture to your internal drive.
You might consider getting a separate FireWire card for your G5 in order to have a second Firewire bus. Then you could connect your Canon cam to the card and your Lacie drive to the G5's onboard Firewire ports. Since they will be on separate Firewire busses there will be no conflict.
OWC can recommend a card that should work.

Optitek ProLock Mark II Canon issues

Similar Messages

Maybe you are looking for