Other Program Auto Volume Decrease
To Mac users,
While using another program like that of Pot Player, VLC Player, iTunes, or any other media player, the volume automatically decreases for that program at the time of an incoming call and when it is answered via skype. How do I disable this from happening?
Please this is specifically for normal Mac operating systems, not Windows. I know full well for Windows you need to go through the Sounds, Communications, and disable the function.
Thank you for the help!
sdavis3_63 wrote:
How can I prevent the volume of the music from automatically decreasing when I receive a text or email on my iPhone 6 Plus?
You don't, if you have music playing, how else are you going to hear the alerts if the music doesn't decrease?
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Volume setting for other programs lowers to inaudible levels when ever I use flash.
Whenever I play a flash file/video/etc in firefox 3.6.4, the volume of other programs such as itunes and ventrillo go down to like 1%. How do I stop this from happening?
== URL of affected sites ==
http://www.youtube.comJust wondering if there was ever a resolution to this... having the exact same issue. Using Google Chrome.
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How come the volume of other programs are lowered while one FaceTime? I exchange media with friends and colleagues and I can barely hear anything. There should be a way we can manually control the volume of different programs
I own the movies and I want them to stay in my iTunes library basically forever.
But in both cases the file name no longer shows in the movie list, so I don't know how to re-download it from the Cloud.
iTunes prefs > Store > Show iTunes in the Cloud purchases.
This will show all your iTunes purchases in your library with a cloud icon down arrow. Click the icon to redownload or click on Play to stream without downloading.
Also see this , -> Download past purchases
and techncially, you don't "own" the movie, You simply have a license to use it.
Yet the first thing iTunes does when you hit the delete key is tell you that it will remove the movie forever from all devices and the library.
Actually, no it does not tell you that.
FYI: You should keep copies of all yoru iTnue spurahses as the labels/movie studios/copyright owners can pull their product at anytime and it won't be available to redownload.
Suggestions here -> http://www.apple.com/feedback/ -
Mail program can't handle my volume of mail, need other program
Hi,
have many diff accounts that i view individually
have many subfolders which I move mail to regularly
in box avg; total - 75, per account - 20
Mail still glitches and I can't actually see most e's once moved unless i do a spotlight serch
Seeking sugestions for other program out there that might be able to handle my volumeHi Katskratch,
I agree with Allan that Mail should be able to handle this. Your problems could probably be fixed by re-creating the index, as he has pointed out.
If you want to switch to another mail client regardless, it seems to me that you’re asking in the wrong forum. Not sure what kind of advice do you expect to find here. If we preferred another mail client, we probably wouldn’t be reading this in the first place.
Until you find a mail client that better suits your needs, I suggest you to proceed as follows to fix the problems you appear to have in Mail.
Verify/repair the startup disk (not just permissions), as described here:
The Repair functions of Disk Utility: what's it all about?
After having fixed all the filesystem issues, if any, and making sure that there’s enough space available on the startup disk (a few GB, plus the space needed to make a backup copy of the Mail folder), try this:
1. Quit Mail if it’s running.
2. In the Finder, go to ~/Library/Mail/. Make a backup copy of this folder, just in case something goes wrong, e.g. by dragging it to the Desktop while holding the Option (Alt) key down. This is where all your mail is locally stored.
3. Locate Envelope Index and move it to the Trash. If you see an Envelope Index-journal file there, delete it as well.
4. Move any “IMAP-”, “Mac-”, or “Exchange-” account folders to the Trash. Note that you can do this with IMAP-type accounts because they store mail on the server and Mail can easily re-create them. DON’T trash any “POP-” account folders, as that would cause all mail stored there to be lost.
5. Open Mail. It will tell you that your mail needs to be “imported”. Click Continue and Mail will proceed to re-create Envelope Index — Mail says it’s “importing”, but it just re-creates the index if the mailboxes are already in Mail 2.x format.
6. As a side effect of having removed the IMAP account folders, those accounts may be in an “offline” state now. Do Mailbox > Go Online to bring them back online.
Note: For those not familiarized with the ~/ notation, it refers to the user’s home folder, i.e. ~/Library is the Library folder within the user’s home folder. -
AS Above. Edited in FCPX. Excellent sound file. Using Compressor 4 to DVD Studio 4. Wanting AIFF or WAVE sound for acurate sound.
Previously DVD Studio 4 has accepted AIFF etc and delivered sound as reuired. Now, during the burn process everything other than ac3 is declined as 'video bit rate too high', but will burn if the AIFF format is replaced with ac3 (which I presume meanss the 'video bit rate too high' is referring to the sound file)
The issue with ac3 format is the huge reduction in original volume and worse, the 'auto volume levelling' that makes a nonsense of the original soundtrack - with simply aweful unwanted variations in volume Throughout the the dvd.
I have tried everything I can think of to get around this. The 'volume gain' in compressor doesn't make any difference. Exporting just AIFF and the Video to DVD 4 doesn't make any difference, it always declines anything but the aweful sound ac3 delivers.
I have customers awaiting a musci DVD, not with thei quality I can't.
Cheers
PhilThe total video bit rate is determined by audio & video. Depending on what rate your video file was encoded at will determine how much room is left for audio. PCM(aiff/wav) audio requires a bigger piece of the pie. Video bit rate too high means your overall(video+audio) rate is going above 9Mbps which the format won't allow. The only way to use aiff would be to lower your video file's data rate. The length of your program is also a factor in all of this.
I had some problems in the past with using aiff instead ac3. Although there shouldn't be any issue I experienced playback issues on some players that couldn't be explained but were cleared up by ac3. I have been using the same specs as Dave's suggestion for almost nine years and have not had any issues with mix, quality, or levels. -
In large PDF files the cursor moves at warp speed with a mind of it's own, I've tried slowing it down in Sys Pref with no luck. On small files cursor action is normal. This happens in Safari, Preview and other programs that use PDF files. Sorry to say this does not seem to be a new problem with 7.# I've had it with prvevious versions of operating system Right now I'm using a Apple wireless mouse and key board. Using the USB keyboard and mouse the same problem does not go away.
Please read this whole message before doing anything.
This procedure is a test, not a solution. Don’t be disappointed when you find that nothing has changed after you complete it.
Step 1
The purpose of this step is to determine whether the problem is localized to your user account.
Enable guest logins* and log in as Guest. Don't use the Safari-only “Guest User” login created by “Find My Mac.”
While logged in as Guest, you won’t have access to any of your personal files or settings. Applications will behave as if you were running them for the first time. Don’t be alarmed by this; it’s normal. If you need any passwords or other personal data in order to complete the test, memorize, print, or write them down before you begin.
Test while logged in as Guest. Same problem?
After testing, log out of the guest account and, in your own account, disable it if you wish. Any files you created in the guest account will be deleted automatically when you log out of it.
*Note: If you’ve activated “Find My Mac” or FileVault, then you can’t enable the Guest account. The “Guest User” login created by “Find My Mac” is not the same. Create a new account in which to test, and delete it, including its home folder, after testing.
Step 2
The purpose of this step is to determine whether the problem is caused by third-party system modifications that load automatically at startup or login, by a peripheral device, by a font conflict, or by corruption of the file system or of certain system caches.
Disconnect all wired peripherals except those needed for the test, and remove all aftermarket expansion cards, if applicable. Start up in safe mode and log in to the account with the problem. You must hold down the shift key twice: once when you boot, and again when you log in.
Note: If FileVault is enabled, or if a firmware password is set, or if the boot volume is a software RAID, you can’t do this. Ask for further instructions.
Safe mode is much slower to boot and run than normal, with limited graphics performance, and some things won’t work at all, including sound output and Wi-Fi on certain models. The next normal boot may also be somewhat slow.
The login screen appears even if you usually log in automatically. You must know your login password in order to log in. If you’ve forgotten the password, you will need to reset it before you begin.
Test while in safe mode. Same problem?
After testing, reboot as usual (not in safe mode) and verify that you still have the problem. Post the results of Steps 1 and 2. -
[solved] Some programs cause problems for sound in other programs.
Today I noticed that audio has stopped working in some applications, but not others. The programs that I know where it doesn't work are:
Hotline Miami (game)
VLC
Dungeons of Dredmor (game)
Uplink (game)
Programs where I know it works are:
mplayer / smplayer (on the same files where vlc does not work)
mpd
Programs run through wine
Standalone flash player and the firefox flash plugin
Additionally, when I run a program where audio doesn't work, I have to restart programs where it does. For example, I'll pause mpd, open Hotline Miami, and then quit. When I try to unpause mpd, I'll get the error message "Failed to open audio output". But if I try a couple times, it will eventually resume. It's a similar situation for mplayer. I'll have to quit and restart mplayer a couple times after trying one of the other programs before audio will work.
Further complicating the matter is that there are no error messages for the programs where audio does not work. I can't seem to track down the problem. I also don't do much with sound beyond using mpd and mplayer, so I don't know when this started.
My hardware is a Lenovo IdeaPad z580 with integrated Intel HDA audio.
EDIT: I just noticed that the problem is not what I thought. Part of the problem was simply due to volume. So I can get sound in the listed programs. However, running those programs does still cause the problem for the mplayer and mpd where I have to restart them.
Last edited by mathfreak (2014-03-10 13:27:10)Gah. It does appear to have been a pulseaudio thing. I hadn't even realized it was installed, let alone running. I've fixed it. Thanks for the help! And thanks, brebs, for the asoundrc file. I think it'll help a lot.
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Finder "drops out" during operations, then "drops in" when in other programs.
When trying to copy files to a USB stick or through AirDrop, Finder will drop out for a second (all its windows briefly disappear and processes will stop). The files will be partially copied to the USB stick, but greyed out.
When in other programs, like Safari, Finder windows will suddenly appear, unbidden.
When I run DiskUtility, I will get a very long list of permissions which need to be repaired. When I click "Repair Permissions" it says it repaired them, but then running Repair Permissions again brings up the same list. I have tried the "resetpassword" command in Terminal from the Recovery Volume (Restart+CMD-R) to reset the home folder permissions and ACLs. I have reset the PRAM. I have done a Safe Boot and restarted. I still cannot copy, and Finder is still acting weird. What can I do?
JMight be Finder preferences are corrupted ...
Open the Finder. From the Finder menu bar click Go > Go to Folder
Type or copy paste the following:
~/Library/Preferences/com.apple.finder.plist
Click Go then move the com.apple.finder.plist file to the Trash.
Launch the Finder to test.
If that didn't help, try relaunching the Finder > Relaunch Finder… from the Mac OS X Finder
It's not necessary to repeatedly repair permissions. Those are messages, nothing more. -
6th gen. Nano volume decrease button repair
Is it possible to get a repair if my volume decrease button won't work?
If yes,then how do I do that?How do I notify Apple?What would be the "requirements?"Howdy Hemi,
It sounds like you are setting the volume to the desired level, but it keeps going all the way down on its own after some time. I would start by resetting the iPod Nano 6th gen:
Reset your iPod
Test the issue again after resetting to see if that resolved it. If it does not, then I would next recommend using the following article to restore the software and try it again.
Restoring iPod to factory settings
Thank you for using Apple Support Communities.
All the very best,
Sterling -
MSI VOX - MSIPVS (only cd); dropped frames in other programs;
I have dell inspirion 11000 (512mb, celeron 2,GHz) and msi vox USB TV tuner.
I have two problems.
In MSIPVS I can only select cd audio for audio output , but I have only mic in input on my computer. I guess this problem is in connection with the sound card on my lap top. I would like to know, if anyone was in the similar situation and how he managed to get out of this problem.
Second problem is probably in connection with msi vox driver. I am able to get preview only from IUVCR and MSIVPS. I can capture sound and video only from IUVCR since this program allows me to select microphone for audio input. But during the capturing I have a lot of dropped frames (around 70% ... my CPU usage is very small, disc fragmented .... ). Other programs just don't work.
Please HELP ME! ;-)
Thank you in advanceCould be the memory, but it's hard to tell.
It may be a problem with reading the timecode from the camera.
Some things to try:
You could try to capture now and capture the entire tape with device control on.
Turn device control off and capture now (this will not allow you to recapture footage based on timecode)
If you are capturing to your internal drive where your operating system is running on and have journaling enabled, this could be fouling up the capture process. To see if you have journaling on go to:
Applications->Utilities->Disk Utilities
select the drive you are capturing to
click the select the File Menu and see if the journaling submenu says enable journaling or disable journaling. If it says disable, then the drive is journaled.
Capturing to a FileVault Volume will slow down the capture process and probably causes dropped frames.
Reboot the computer and hold the right shift key down to start in safe mode. If you have multiple users, hold the shift key down when logging into a user. Try to capture in safe mode. This will turn off any pesky programs you may have running in the background.
Make sure the drive you are capturing to has enough free space. If you are capturing to a drive that is close to full or heavily fragmented, it will slow the capture process down and drop frames.
Other than that... it could be a memory issue or it could be the speed of your hard drive. -
My 6th generation volume decreases on its own.
My 6th gen. nano's volume decreases on its own.
Yes. You probably have a short in either your earbud wires or the headphone socket of the iPod. Try a different headset to isolate the problem. If it's inside the iPod, I use De-Ox-It on a tiny swab to clean the contacts. If it's the earbuds, just get a new pair.
-
Weird line on desktop everytime I exit safari or other program...
Hiii,
I have this problem every since I upgraded to Yosemite, I don't know if I'm the only one with this problem? It happens overtime I exit safari or any other program...Hey there Aesthas,
If you are still getting the odd bar just above the Dock, I would next reset your PRAM, and then test it out again:
Reset your computer’s PRAM - Mac Help
Resetting PRAM may change some system settings and preferences. Use System Preferences to restore your settings.
Important: To print these instructions, click the Share button in the Help window, then choose Print.
Choose Apple menu > Shut Down.
Locate the following keys on the keyboard: Option, Command (⌘), P, and R. You will need to hold these keys down simultaneously in step 4.
Turn on your Mac.
Immediately press and hold the Option-Command-P-R keys. You must press this key combination before the gray screen appears.
Continue holding the keys down until your Mac restarts, and you hear the startup sound for the second time.
Release the keys.
After resetting your computer’s PRAM, you may need to update your speaker volume, display resolution, and startup disk preferences. For more information about PRAM, see the Apple Support article About NVRAM and PRAM.
If the issue persists, next I would boot to Safe Mode to see if , then restart and test again:
Start up in safe mode - Mac Help
Choose Apple menu > Shut Down.
After your Mac shuts down, wait 10 seconds, then press the power button.
Immediately after you hear the startup tone, hold down the Shift key.
You should press the Shift key as soon as possible after you hear the startup tone, but not before.
Release the Shift key when you see the gray Apple logo and progress indicator.
To leave safe mode, restart your Mac again, but don’t hold down any keys during startup.
Thank you for using Apple Support Communities.
All the very best,
Sterling -
I am unable to open my Photoshop program after installing the entire Creative Suite: Premium Production 6. All other programs work, but with Photoshop it says that it "Could not open a scratch file because the file is locked, you do not have necessary access permissions, or another program is using the file. Use the 'Properties' command in the Windows Explorer to unlock the file." Then I select "OK" and the next message comes up "Could not initialize Photoshop because the file is locked, you do not have the necessary permissions, or another program is using the file. Use the 'Properties' command in the Windows Explorer to unlock this file. I installed all of the programs on the same day from a CD. I need this fixed immediately.
I am not interested in switching to Creative Cloud, so don't even suggest it. I spoke to Mashmi (or something to that effect) on the "Support" Chat and there was absolutely no support. Useless actually.
Thanks in advance.Could not open a scratch file because the file is locked or you do not have the necessary access privileges. (…) | Mylen…
Mylenium -
How open images from other programs & convert to tiff?
I am new to digital photography. I usually take 2 to 3 MB images with my Canon Rebel XT and use iPhoto as my basic program to organize images, create albums, and do very basic editing. I'm running on a G4 Powerbook with OS10.3. I expect to upgrade to iPhoto6 soon. I also use Canon's Image Browser (because it does a better job of compression for emailing that my present iPhoto) and an abbreviated version of ArcSoft PhotoStudio which came bundled with my Canon and has editing tools similar to Adobe Photoshop Elements.
So far I usually use iPhoto's "Preferences/Open in Other" command when I want to open one or more selected images in one of the other programs. I have not found any easy way to locate an image while working in ImageBrowser or PhotoStudio, because iPhoto assigns folder numbers by date, so I'd have to know in which of many numbered folders to look. Placing images into iPhoto albums does not help because while the album names appear in these program's tree view they appear unable to link to them. Canon refuses to answer questions relating to iPhoto and referred me to ArcSoft for any questions about PhotoStudio. ArcSoft says they provide no support for programs bundled with hardware. Typical. What I'd like to know is:
1. Is there any easy way to locate iPhoto images while I'm in one of these other programs?
2. Is there any way to copy an entire album from iPhoto to one of these other programs?
3. I've attended two different digital photo classes in which instructors felt it desirable to convert jpegs to tiffs. One felt it was necessary to reduce the loss of pixels during editing, and the other does it for any image he plans to print, claiming it improves print quality. They recommended getting a special conversion program. Based on responses here to the topic: "Want to save jpeg file as tiff before making edits to photos", others feel that for most amateurs like me this is a minor issue, especially with iPhoto. Testing this I have found, as Kevin Wolfe1 says Feb 12, that compression of a jpeg appears to occur primarily on the first edit and does not sognificantly degrade the image. The programs I mention above appear able to save an edited jpeg as a tiff if desired, but I've noticed also that iPhoto's Export command includes the option to export a jpeg (to desktop or another folder) as a tiff. When I tried this, it did create a file identified as .tif, and I can drag that file back into the iPhoto Library where it remains named as a .tif, and according to iPhoto, this file contains about 5 times the MBs the original jpeg had. What I'm curious to know is, is that a true tiff file or is iPhoto kidding me?
Powerbook G4 Mac OS X (10.3.9)Typical. What I'd like to know is:
1. Is there any easy way to locate iPhoto images
while I'm in one of these other programs?
In iPhoto 06 you have the option to NOT move imported image file in to the iPhoto library. So they images stay in the place where you put them. With this option the iPhoto library only contains "pointers".
2. Is there any way to copy an entire album from
iPhoto to one of these other programs?
Can't you open an album, select all the images then then use "export"
3. I've attended two different digital photo classes
in which instructors felt it desirable to convert
jpegs to tiffs.
If you are worried about this then you should be shooting RAW format. In your case the camera is doing the JPG conversion and the "damage" is unrecoverable.
iPhoto 6 and Tigeer (10.4.x) has a little bit better supportfor raw format images i yu are worried about something that makes such a small difference then you should be woried about the stuf that makes a large difference first.
You might want to concider this workflow:
1) use Canon software to download files from camera
2) use Canon software to convert to TIFF
3) Import TIFF to iPhoto (using option to NOT consolidate library
4) specify arcedit, PS or Gimp as your external editor
Others might want to lt iPhoto do the import and raw conversion but you said you wanted thr photos to be stored outside of iPhoto's library system you you can find them with out having to do an export. -
the problem I have since I upgraded to Mavericks version 10.9.1
The problem appears only with Mail not with other programs, not even with my browser.
When I try to zoom the text of an e-mail I received or sent , I can no longer use the keys Command + to enlarge the text, although I can reduce it with Command -.
As I have a problem with my eyes, This is a serious matter for me.
When I write an e-mail, if I select text and press Command +, it just displaces the text to the right.
Now, my husband has a USB keyboard. If he connects it to my computer, his regular Command + does not work either, but he uses the extended keyboard, then it works. Unfortunately, he needs it for a musical application which does not work with a wireless keyboard.Firefox 3.6.4 and 3.6.6 use a process called, "plugin-container.exe" which was using up most of my CPU when I opened up multiple tabs that contained Adobe Flash files, and caused Firefox to lock up.
My solution was to use Firefox 3.5.10 which you can get from the Mozilla website at [http://www.mozilla.com/en-US/firefox/all-older.html]
I am using Adobe Flash 10.1.53.64 without any problem in this version of Firefox. Check the release notes, I believe it contains all the latest security fixes in "Firefox 3.6.4".
Hopefully, they will fix Firefox 3.6 in the next version (e.g. Firefox 3.6.7), until then you should probably use "Firefox 3.5.10".
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