Out of focus still photos in time line

I have been sent a disc of 11 photos that I down loaded into Iphoto. They are all excellent quality, but when I drag them into the time line and press PLAY, they go out of focus. Press stop and they are clear again. Any thoughts

Are the project dimensions 1920x1080 or 1280x720 or 720x576? What are the dimensions of the images? Select one and the Info inspector will tell you. Control-R will render selected items. Option-R will rendered everything in the Timeline that needs rendering.

Similar Messages

Still images in time line not visible

hello does anyone know how to correct the timeline in elements 4 to make visible the thumbnails of still images. thx joan

I think you should first understand security concepts of the content repository described here: http://docs.oracle.com/cd/E23943_01/doc.1111/e10792/c05_security.htm#CDDECAAF
Depending if you use just Security Groups, or Access Control Lists (ACLs) you need to configure the system. Also, keep in mind that spaces usually utilize folders and metadata inheritance - for further details see http://docs.oracle.com/cd/E23943_01/doc.1111/e10978/c08_folders.htm#i1125681

Removing Ken Burns effect once photo is on time line

I am using the lastest version of iMovie, I have made a movie using only photos. All of the photos have the Ken Burn's effect some are ok but other are not. Can the Ken Burn's effect be turned off once images are on the time line?

Found it. Select the photo on time line, highlight the adjust symbol in the upper right hand corner, highlight crop button and chose "fit" or "crop to fill".

Still Photos from DVD?

I apologize if I'm not posting this in the right forum, I wasn't sure where to ask -
I have a DVD (home video put onto to DVD, nothing copyright), I know how to make a copy of it on the Mac and how to burn copies of other DVD's, etc., but I am wondering if it's possible to pull still photo's from the DVD/movie?
When I copied the DVD onto my Mac, I get a file with several sub-folders in it - VIDEO_TS, AUDIO_TS, etc., I haven't been able to import anything into iMovie - it quits part-way through.
Is there anyway to put the movie/video into an application that will then let me pull out or copy still photos from it?
Hopefully that made sense, not sure if I'm correctly explaining what I'd like to do...
Thanks!

You can capture stills from a digital movie through use of
a third-party shareware such as Snapz Pro X; perhaps a
few others, too. Some may offer a demo limited use feature
to see what it could do.
• Snapz Pro X - Ambrosia Software:
http://www.ambrosiasw.com/utilities/snapzprox/
I'm not certain what GraphicConverter from LemkeSoft can do.
This also is a third-party shareware; it can work in demo mode.
• GraphicConverter:
http://www.lemkesoft.com/
Been some time since I last used products from either source;
so you may find something (or not) of use to you there.
For just an occasional grab or screenshot of a frame from a
digital video, you could try pausing the movie and using the
standard keyboard keys to create a snapshot of that image
and save it to the desktop. That would be sort of clumsy but
it may do for a few images out of your own digital video files.
Good luck & happy computing!

CC 2014 trial. MPEG MOVIE clips flickering on my time line! after render, and after export. tried all kinds of sequence settings,taking out transitions and effects ,even the audio tracks.....still flickering. They play fine outa the project files!? HELLL

CC 2014 trial. MPEG MOVIE clips flickering on my time line! after render, and after export. tried all kinds of sequence settings,taking out transitions and effects ,even the audio tracks.....still flickering. They play fine outa the project files!? HELLLLLPPPPP!!!!

We can not see your computer, your settings or even know what your source files are because we are not in the same room as you are!
We cant see what you are doing wrong ...so you will have to tell us a lot more and show us some screen grabs of your settings.

After putting still photos into the time line the pop up all over my video when I burn a CD or load to YouTube

After putting still photos into the time line the pop up all over my video when I burn a CD or load to YouTube.
The video in FCPX looks fine, But when I load it the photos will play over top of each other or double play.

Export your project as Quick Time Current Settings by choosing Export Media in the Share menu. See if the movie plays correctly in QT Player. If it does, upload that to Web.
Russ

Some of my still photos move up and go out of focus

I am making a slideshow and some of my photos move up a little and slightly go out of focus one frame after the in video transition effect. They remain out of focus until the next transition and then they move back down and go into focus one frame before the out transition. I am using the Fade in Fade Out Dissolve effect. The photos are in focus during the video transition effect. They are acting as if I have a double image. This is not happening to all the photos. Any suggestions on how to correct this and how to prevent this from happening?
Final Cut Express HD ver 3.0 Mac OS X (10.4.4) PowerBook G4 - 17" and Apple Cinima HD 23"
Mac OS X (10.4.4)
Mac OS X (10.4.4)

My photos come from images in IPhoto. They are clear photos and work well in a IPhoto slideshow. They appear to jump up and out of focus just after the dissolve transition then they jump back down and into focus during the exit dissolve transition to the next photo.
Mac OS X (10.4.4)
Mac OS X (10.4.4)

Out of focus photos after burning dvd.

I am using Magic iDVD in iDVD 08. Have created a movie with photos imported from iPhoto. All appears to be well when I preview the movie prior to burning it (i.e. photos are clear and sharp, and burning process appears to go as it should). But when I view the burned DVD all the photos are quite out of focus. This occurs whether I watch the DVD on my iMac or TV. Am using Philips DVD-R discs. Have tried different encoding settings with no difference in results.

It looks to me like the flash fired for the shot, but the camera also kept the shutter open for a fairly long time to reach optimum exposure. Can you check and see how long the exposure was? It appears that the bright, flashed parts of the photo are sharp, so I don't think it's an optical problem. The flash froze some of the image, but handheld camera shake created the blurring. Try a similar shot on a solid tripod. Or reset the exposure so that it's short enough to handhold and try again. I'll often do dusk or nighttime shots on aperture priority setting with a flash to light up someone in the foreground. The shutter stays open long enough to light up the dark, unflashed areas in the background, leading to a long exposure, so I have to use a tripod and have a model that can stay very still. Otherwise the photos end up looking like your shot. As far as saving the photo that you posted--it would take a huge amount of effort by someone that's very good with Photoshop.

Time-lapse still photos to IMovie???

Greetings.
I have a Nikon D2x that will shoot time lapse photography. I tried a test of 30 images (one second of video). So I have a folder of JPG images which I then resized to 640x480 at 72dpi.
At first I tried to import these stills into IM just by dragging and dropping my pictures into the clips window to the right of the viewer. It took a while for these to "render" but when they finished, I placed a few of the images in the time line.
I pressed play, thinking that each photo would show for 1/30th of a second, but what happened instead, stayed on the first photo, did a pan out, and then went to the next photo.
My question, (and maybe IMovie is the wrong app for this) is how do you take a sequence of still photos and have them play each for 1/30 or 1/24 of a second so that I can see the out come of my time lapse photography?
Thank you for your help.
Jonathan

how do you take a sequence of still photos and have them play each for 1/30 or 1/24 of a second so that I can see the out come of my time lapse photography?
The easiest is to use QuickTime Pro ($30, from Apple). It lets you import a series of images to a movie, creating just what you want. You can tell it to import the images at 30 frames per second or any duration you want.
It can be done in iMovie too, but there are some hurdles. One is that iMovie lets us import a photo with a duration no shorter than 3 frames per second (shown as 0:00:03).
But there is a back door. See this topic:
http://discussions.apple.com/click.jspa?searchID=-1&messageID=3210397
I pressed play, thinking that each photo would show for 1/30th of a second, but what happened instead, stayed on the first photo, did a pan out, and then went to the next photo.
That happened because the Ken Burns settings in the Photo Settings window were set to zoom in. Turn off the Ken Burns checkbox and import the image as a still instead of an animated video clip.
Karl

Why are some of my photos tack sharp while others in the same series are out of focus?

My camera is a Canon Rebel XS (dSLR) and I primarily use the 50mm f/1.8 lens.
I shoot in Manual Mode with Autofocus ON.
I am having difficulty with my photos coming out incositant - some are out of focus, while others in the same series (taken a moment apart) are tack sharp.
I've attached two examples - one of the out-of-focus image, the other sharp images (both have been blown up).
It is not camera shake and my settings are identical for both photos. (ISO 200 | f/4.5 | 1/100sec in this instance.)
This has become such a problem that I find myself needing to take 10x more photos of the same subject/pose in order to hopefully get one sharp image from the series.
I have asked multiple people about this problem (though I have yet to take my camera and lens to a shop due to lack of funds) and no one has any idea of either what I'm talking about or what the problem could be.
I would appreciate your thoughts and help!
Thank you!
Fuzzy/Out of Focus:
Sharp:

This new pair of images does not look like camera motion -- this one looks like it missed focus.
If you use the included Canon Digital Photo Professional that came with your camera, you can right-click an image and tell it show you the focus point which were used (the camera wont know if you did a focus-and-recompose technique... so if you recompose after locking focus then the focus points indicated by DPP wouldn't be meaningful). But I bring this up because it would allow you to determine which focus point the camera claims it used.
I think you mentinoned that you used "One Shot" focus mode -- not AI Servo. One Shot should block the camera from taking the shot until it thinks it confirmed focus-lock on the selected AF point (or on at least one AF point it you allow the camera to pick from any of its available focus points.) In AI Servo the camera WILL take the shot when you fully press the button -- whether it successfully locked focus or not.
That brings us back to the subject of the focus test.
If you do not own a commercial chart, then you may want to download one from the Internet and print it. Here's a good site: http://regex.info/blog/photo-tech/focus-chart
Print the chart and follow the instructions. I deliberately run the camera out of focus to nearest focus distance and force the camera to re-focus and shoot... and I repeat this at least a half-dozen times. I then repeat... but this time deliberately run the camera out of focus to infinity before forcing the camera to focus and take the shot.
Track each shot as you do the focus test. You may see a pattern emerge (e.g. perhaps it nails focus when going in one direction to find focus... but misses in another, etc.) Such a pattern might indicate the lens is getting sloppy and needs service (it's usually not worth servicing the 50mm f/1.8 due to it's low cost.) The USM and STM lenses allow full-time manual focus override (even if the lens is auto-focusing). The basic auto-focus motor lenses (like the 50mm f/1.8) do not support this and forcing manual focus without disengaging the focus system can be harmful.
Tim Campbell
5D II, 5D III, 60Da

CS4 soft (out of focus) print preview w/Epson Stylus Photo R260

The print preview and actual printed photo is softer/fuzzier/out of focus compared to the image in Photoshop CS4. Printer profile SPR260 270 UPGP is being used with Color Controls OFF.
I have just shifted from CS2 to CS4 and moved from a PC to a Mac Book Pro. I'm still on the steep part of the learning curve so any help would be greatly appreciated. This is a new problem had not encountered before with this printer.
David

Thank you Ramon.
The image is 1650 wide by 900 pixels high. Printing resolution is 300 ppi.
Print size is 5 1/2" wide by 3" high.
It is a tiff file.
OS version is 10.5.7
The CS4 11.0.1 update has been applied.
The monitor was just calibrated using a Pantone Eye-One LT.
Comparing the print preview on the monitor screen with the original image
also on the screen, the print preview is not quite as sharp as the original
and is slightly less saturated.
I checked out the workflow on Gary Ballard's web site and mine follows it.

Blurry, out of focus, grainy low light photos Noki...

Hi,
I have had a Nokia N95 8GB since April and on the whole I am really happy with everything apart from the camera. Day time shots as far as I can tell are OK but night time/indoor/low light shots are a different story. A lot of shots are grainy, the flesh tones don't look right (face shots have odd red speckling) and very often the shots are simply out of focus or very blurred (like camera shake). This despite me trying to be very careful to keep the camera totally still. I have also experimented with different settings - custom, night portrait etc. All to no avail.
I have previously owned a Casio Exilim Z750 camera which I used to use when going out with my friends, but I was hoping that I could leave that at home as it didn't make sense to carry that as well.
Please has anybody else had similar problems? How can I fix this?
thanks,
Dom.

That sounds about right. Night shots (or low light shots) are not very good with the N95 or N95 8GB.
If you use the flash the subject needs to be about 1m from you otherwise the flash is useless.
640K Should be enough for everybody
El_Loco Nokia Video Blog

Trying to drag photo into iMovie project, It shows the correct picture in the time line but plays the adjacent picture in the viewer ?

trying to drag second set of photos into project. It shows the correct picture in the time line but plays the adjacent,previously imported,picture in the viewer

I notice that in the photo then has a tick in top left corner.
Please describe in other words - or add a screen photo so that I get it.
Howto trash the iMovie pref files - they are two or more.
• Delete iMovie pref. file
iMovie pref. file resides.
Mac Hard Disk (start-up HD)/Users/"Your account"/Library/Preferences
and is named. (one or more of these)
com.apple.iMovie.plist
com.apple.iMovie3.plist
com.apple.iMovie7.plist
com.apple.iMovie8.plist
com.apple.iMovie9.plist
com.apple.iMovieApp.plist
and find
com.apple.iApps.plist
While iMovie is NOT RUNNING - move this/these file/s out on to desk-top.
Now restart iMovie.
If You run Mac OS X.7 or more - then the Library in the User-account folder is invisibly and need to be set to be viewable. IT IS NOT in the Library on Root level (when opening MacintoshHD - first window = root level)
( It can be done like this: Open Terminal, then enter: chflags nohidden ~/Library
Press return, then restart, and it will always be visible until the next major update, when you do the same thing again. )
Yours Bengt W

I need to add text over a still photo in iMovie. Following directions that always worked before but not this time.

I am running OS 10.6.8, an upgrade that I did after Christmas. A couple of times a year, I need to make a video of my students' performances, and have always been able to add text over the still photos before, using the directions in iMovie "help." However, this time, I am not able to choose a title style; no amount of clicking makes anything show up on the selected still photo. And no amount of trying to choose the font style makes anything show up either.
This is iMovie 09; is it possible that it is not compatible with my OS upgrade?
I've been able to insert still photos into the video footage, but can't add any titles or acknowledgements. Thank you so much for your help! Since I only do this a couple of times a year, it always takes me forever to accomplish, which is why I printed off the Help directions to follow.

just to make thing clear (sorry for sounding impudent!)
you do .... :
create a New Project
make a selection of an Event and add it to the Project
select a title and drag it onto the clip?
iM does work with your OS ...

My Mac Book Pro was really slow at everything and would kick me out of my photos every time i got on them. now it won't even allow me to log on. i put my password in and the screen will flash white and go back to the login page. HELP please...

My Mac Book Pro was really slow at everything and would kick me out of my photos every time i got on them. now it won't even allow me to log on. i put my password in and the screen will flash white and go back to the login page. HELP please...

There is nothing wrong with your Dell, it will work fine with any MacbookPro. I have been using Dell displays for over 12 years with many different Mac models. I have two 21" Ultra Sharp displays working side by side to design a Keynote presentation right now.
The issue your having is with the way Keynote takes control of the video output to both displays, it sends the presentation signal to one and the presenter display to the other, this is set up in;
Keynote preferences > Presenter display.
If you want to show a wesite or another app on either display, use application switcher:
press the the command key on the keyboard, then the tab key; a row of applications will show what applications are running, choose which one you want to show. Use command > tab to return to Keynote.

Out of focus still photos in time line

Similar Messages

Maybe you are looking for