Outside Damage to your equipment

I have reported outside equipment damage to Customer Service and received confirmation that a Construction crew would inspect the damage on Wednesday, July 23, 2015. At this writing, there has yet to be any activity in making the needed repairs. I am not experiencing any technical interruption of services but the condition of the outside service box is in a dangerous condition and requires some minor reconstruction.

Lpc3417417 wrote:
I have reported outside equipment damage to Customer Service and received confirmation that a Construction crew would inspect the damage on Wednesday, July 23, 2015. At this writing, there has yet to be any activity in making the needed repairs. I am not experiencing any technical interruption of services but the condition of the outside service box is in a dangerous condition and requires some minor reconstruction.To get a better response from Comcast, try this: Send an email to:
[email protected]
Include all of your information, full name, service address, phone numbers where you can be reached easily, as well as the phone number associated with your account, your account number, and details about all the issues you have been having. Also include a link to this post.

Similar Messages

I get this message "License Expired The trial license on your device has expired. After 30 days,your device will stop working. To apply for a platform license,please contact your equipment vendor."

<blockquote>Locking duplicate thread.<br>
Please continue here: [/questions/757271]</blockquote><br>
The complete message I get is "License Expired
The trial license on your device has expired.
After 30 days,your device will stop working.
To apply for a platform license,please contact your equipment vendor.
We apologize for any inconvenience.
Please reenter your URL and continue your web experience." It may be related to Adobe products. I am currently accessing the net from China. I am able to reload and reach the pages, eventually.

There are no billing issues, I have checked it.
Adobe CC does not require serial number, to install & activate it, please go to www.creative.adobe.com .Download, install & activate it from there.
Please let me know if it is asking for serial number when you are trying to activate the CC.
Do refer to: http://forums.adobe.com/message/6288501
In that case, you can follow http://helpx.adobe.com/creative-cloud/kb/ccm-prompt-serial-number.html.
Regards
Rajshree

Does the warranty cover damage on your ipad

Does the warranty cover damage on your iPad?

Apple's Limited Warranty http://www.apple.com/legal/warranty/ for iPad excludes coverage for damage resulting from accident, disassembly, unauthorized service and unauthorized modifications.
 Cheers, Tom

How did you damage/break your headphone ja

The problems with the headphone jack seem to be a frequent issue for Zen Micro owners. Is this a question of build quality or simply defecti've units?
Those owners, who have experienced issues with the Zen Micro?s headphone jack, do you mind providing information on the following:
) How do you wear your unit's
- Do you use the standard Creative cradle case?
- Do you keep the unit in your pants pocket?
2) What headphones do you use?
- Do you use the standard Creative headphones?
- Do you use headphones with a 90-degree (L) plug? (As per diagram)
..........|||============= Wire to ear pieces
|......Creative.........|
3) Was damage to your headphone jack down to user damage (ie you broke it accidentally) or standard use (ie normal daily use)?
4) Did issues occur immediately or overtime?
I can see how wearing the unit on your waist can be an issue, as when you sit or bend, your body places pressure on the jack. I know the current standard headphones are a straight-plug, most likely so they are a neater fit for the headphone remote. However I think a 90-degree plug would reduce potential dramas ? one reason is the socket is shorter, and is less susceptible to damage when pressure is placed on it (as it simply will turn).

There has been no damage to the phone. I have tried four different head phones. When it started all i had to do was twist the head phone and the phone would lose connection. When that happens on the LG it completely stops playing music, turns the display screen on, and sometimes changed settings while in my pocket. I used compressed air to try to clean it and a paper clip. Shortly after it completely stopped working unless i held it in place which of course is horribly annoying. I use my phone with its million features and apps to basically make phone calls, text, flash light, and you guessed it, listen to music. Without music i have , literally, little use for this phone. Trying to contact customer service has been extraordinarily frustrating. I called the store i bought the phone and told the girl working that from what i read online, this phone suffers from this problem a lot. To me that means the manufacturer is selling faulty product that will knowingly break. And of all things, the head phone Jack? They've been around for how many years now? The girl working agreed with me that they break often and told me to remove the battery and put it back in. On a phone that doesn't allow you to remove the battery. Then she gives me a number i call that then tells me to get some other phone to call a different number which is not what i need. I need information on how to fixed or have it replaced. I had purchased insurance but when my card maxed the insurance plan was cancelled. I've had it for over a year so the warranty is gone. Now I have a phone that doesn't do the one thing i like it to do While employees admit to me they break often over the very problem i presented. Very frustrating to buy a phone, which by the way is really a great phone, that can no longer do what my 20 year old CD player can still do, connect to the headphone jack.

I have an iphone 5, and the battery is so bad! I was just wonder if anyone had used an external battery before? are they good? can they do damage to your phone? what's the best one to get? any help would be great thanks!

I have an iphone 5, and the battery is so bad! I was just wonder if anyone had used an external battery before? are they good? can they do damage to your phone? what's the best one to get? any help would be great thanks!

I'd just like to say that ahs70's post on Dec 1, 2013 at 1:17am on Pg. 9 worked for me as well: https://discussions.apple.com/thread/5338609?start=120&tstart=0
If your iPhone's battery is acting up you need to determine if it's a software issue or a hardware/battery issue. To do that, after syncing your iPhone, erase/hard reset all data and settings from your iPhone to what it was from the factory as new. This can be found in Settings/General/Reset/Erase All Content and Settings. Then test it out for a day or two. If it's still acting up then it's likely a hardware issue and you will need to get your battery replaced. If your warranty is done than check out this link to get a battery kit to replace your iPhone battery yourself: http://www.ifixit.com/Store/iPhone/iPhone-5-Replacement-Battery/IF118-001#produc tDescription
If your iPhone is now working properly after hard resetting it than it's most likely a software issue. This battery issue only started after upgrading to the new iOs7, so it is obviously related to the update not properly installing itself. What has worked for me and many others is to manually update to iOS 7.0.4 using the full downloaded version of the update which is about 1.32 Gigs.
But first you need to find out what model of iPhone you have, click here to determine if it's GSM or CDMA: http://support.apple.com/kb/HT3939?viewlocale=en_US&locale=en_US
Then go here and scroll down to download the iOS 7.0.4 complete update for your device: http://www.downloadios7.org/download-ios-7-0-4-ipsw-file.html
Then scroll up on the download page and follow the instructions of updating your iPhone manually following the instructions below: "IPSW with iTunes"
And your done.
Problem solved.
I only posted this because it was a very frustrating problem that no one really seemed to figure out a solution for.
I hope this helps.
Emile Beaulieu

Damage to NI equipment due to overvoltage/overcurrent.

I am curious to how far an overvoltage or high current input to my data acqusition system (DAS) would travel through my hardware and how many components could be potitially damaged. I guess what I need is a probability of damage to those parts. Following is a discription of my hardware and for now lets say I am sampling an analog input current from an electronics board. The analog input is to a SCXI 1308 terminal block which is connected to the following series of hardware: SCXI 1308 --> SCXI 1102B --> SXCI 1001 (12 slot chassis) --> PXI 6052E Daq card --> PXI chassis with an 850 MHz embedded processor. How many hardware components could be potentially damaged if a current higher than 20mA hits the equipmen
t... for instance if there was a short in my electronics board causing a high current/wattage signal to hit the DAS? Also, additional input cards I have in the SCXI chassis are the 1102, the 1180 feedthrough module, the 1121, and the 1163R. In your explanation please explain why the component(s) would or would not be damaged.

Hi TAC,
I will take a crack at this question.
In an extreme case, everything can be damaged.
The case I have in mind when saying this follows.
If the current should suddenly (i.e. < 1ns) increase to say 100 Amps (this is larger than 20mA) you must take into concideration the effects of the RF response of the various devices (ever hear of an EMP weapon?). In the simplest case, let us concentrate on just the ground paths. At RF frequecies the wires must be analyzed as transmision lines. Depending on the diferences in wave propogation due to the difference in length and the materials used, there may be some very large potential differences in the what we normal concider ground planes ( put a gold embosed coffee cup in an old microwave and watch what happens)
. I think you figure out where I am going with this.
So, if you will buy this arguement that everything is suspect under the these extreme conditions, and we recall that nothing should be suspect when everything is within spec, then there may be some threshold in-between these cases where the reliability drops off. Where that point is I cannot specify without all the details.
In closing, I would like to invoke a variation on an old quote;
"There are only two types of electronic devices in the world,
those that are bad,
and
those that are not bad yet".
Trying to help,
Ben
Ben Rayner
I am currently active on.. MainStream Preppers
Rayner's Ridge is under construction

Verizon, Does YOUR equipment need service and upgrade? Not OURS? Please Help

Hello,
I used to have a pretty stable dial-up, then DSL, then DSL enhanced connection. But late this summer, my service has gotten horrible. In the evenings, I can get disconnected every 1 to 2 minutes or even get disconnected when I am trying to reconnect from the last disconnect.
I have a new modem/router from Verizon and have gone through all the standard troubleshooting suggestions given on this site.
I then began sifting through these forums and then posting about my difficulties.
Through the last several months it seems as though more people are complaining about the frequent internet slowdowns and disconnects. We've all been walked through the same steps.
Finally we are being told that these problems are happening during "high-traffic" times on the internet and nothing else is said.
I recently saw a post where a customer said they were told by a Verizon service technician that the problems are because Verizon's hardware needs to be upgraded to handle the larger amount of internet traffic.
I have rebooted and reset my modem many times. I've restarted my computer, run cleaning programs, cleared the DNS folder, and defragged. I've even changed the phone and Ethernet cables.
Verizon,
Will you please work on solutions on your end instead of saying everything is on OUR end?
Thank you

We had escalated this previously for you and your post was copied to our private support board. Please refer all correspondences to there from here on out. You can easily get to the private support one of two ways. In the email you signed up for the forums with, you will receive a link to click on. Make sure you are already signed into the forums before clicking on this link. Another way of getting there is by clicking on your username anywhere you see it in the forums. This brings you to your account profile. Scroll down to the section labeled "My Support Cases" . In there you will see the link to your case.
Anthony_VZ
**If someones post has helped you, please acknowledge their assistance by clicking the red thumbs up button to give them Kudos. If you are the original poster and any response gave you your answer, please mark the post that had the answer as the solution**
Notice: Content posted by Verizon employees is meant to be informational and does not supersede or change the Verizon Forums User Guidelines or Terms or Service, or your Customer Agreement Terms and Conditions or plan

I am changing to a larger hard drive on my Mac. Can I copy the Aperture library from my backup disk running Time Machine without loosing anything?

I am installing a larger harddrive on my Mac. Can I copy the Aperture library from my backup disk running Time Machine without loosing anything? I am getting help migrating everything else on to the new harddrive, but since copying the 350Gb Aperture library takes a lot of time, I am planning to do that part myself.

I found the following information on Time Machine help about restoring Aperture library from TM
Restoring Your Aperture System
If you buy a new computer or use another system at a different location and want access to the Aperture library, you can install Aperture and then transfer the library from your vault (on your backup disk) to the other computer. If you experience equipment failure or other unexpected events, such as fire or weather-related damage to your equipment, you can easily restore the entire library to your new computer from a backup disk.
HideTo restore the entire library from an external backup disk
Restoring Your Aperture System
If you buy a new computer or use another system at a different location and want access to the Aperture library, you can install Aperture and then transfer the library from your vault (on your backup disk) to the other computer. If you experience equipment failure or other unexpected events, such as fire or weather-related damage to your equipment, you can easily restore the entire library to your new computer from a backup disk.
HideTo restore the entire library from an external backup disk
If you buy a new computer or use another system at a different location and want access to the Aperture library, you can install Aperture and then transfer the library from your vault (on your backup disk) to the other computer. If you experience equipment failure or other unexpected events, such as fire or weather-related damage to your equipment, you can easily restore the entire library to your new computer from a backup disk.
HideTo restore the entire library from an external backup disk
Connect the hard disk drive that contains the most up-to-date vault to your computer and open Aperture.
Choose File > Vault > Restore Library.The Restore Library dialog appears.
Choose the vault you want to use to restore your library from the Source Vault pop-up menu.If the vault doesn’t appear in the Source Vault pop-up menu, choose Select Source Vault from the Source Vault pop-up menu, navigate to the vaults location in the Select Source Vault dialog, then click Select.
Click Restore, then click Restore again.

Bluetooth G5

Hi All!
First post, so go easy on me please!
Couple of questions I would like some input on if you have the time:
1. I was thinking of getting the Mighty Mouse (bluetooth) & have figured that I need the optional module (I have looked in the system profiler & bluetooth has 'no information', so I guess I need?).
Do you think this is worth getting the module (roughly how much is it & how easy to install?) or should I just go with the wired option? Reason is my girlfriend is a PC user & access's Citrix from my Mac & needs the right click functionality.
2. I have a transmitter (T shaped thing that goes into the AirPort antenna port). Any good to me for this (I am guessing not, stupid question?)
3. Lastly, I have a Lacie Firewire 800 PCI card installed & while I was looking around the Apple site for Bluetooth advice, I noticed a warning: +"Warning: Do not use PCI cards that function only at 66 MHz in the 33 MHz PCI slots. Damage to your equipment could result. If you have a 66 MHz PCI card, check with the card's manufacturer to see if it also works at 33 MHz."+. I have the card in slot 2 but cannot find anything in the users guide to state the MHz it is running. I have had this card running for about 8 months now, so am I worried about nothing?
Thanks anybody who takes the time to read (never mind answer!!) this thread.

Hi Createbnd,
1. It's possible to get the Bluetooth module, but the easier/cheaper route would be to get a D-Link DBT-120, which you can just plug into a USB port (no drivers needed).
2. The T-shaped thing is just for AirPort. The Bluetooth antenna is cylindrical.
3. Sorry, don't know the answer to the PCI question off the bat...
That said, I've gone through a lot of mice... I'm currently down on Bluetooth mice, since I've had problems with them constantly losing the connection and I'm annoyed with the lag when first moving the mouse. My current favorite mice are the Logitech MX Revolution and VX Nano.
Hope this helps!

ESATA Card for 1.8GHz Single CPU (Late 2004) Power Mac G5 Tower

I have an unusual issue. I purchased the LaCie d2 quadra 500GB external hard drive. What attracted me to this drive is the ability to interface it by USB 2.0, Firewire 400, Firewire 800 or eSATA. Of course, eSATA looks like it would provide the best throughput. So, I asked the rep at MacMall to suggest a compatible eSATA card for my machine. He suggested LaCie part number 710372 which is a PCI card with two eSATA ports on it.
When it arrived, I checked the specs on the package and found that it requires a "PCI slot (32 bits 66Mhz; PCI 2.3 compliant interface)". When I checked Apple's web site it looks like my machine has the following caution "Warning: Do not use PCI cards that function only at 66 MHz in the 33 Mhz PCI slots. Damage to your equipment could result...". So, I called LaCie support to check this before I installed the card. LaCie support checked with their technicians and I was finally told that this card did have the ability to operate at 33 Mhz but it wasn't listed on the package.
So, I installed the card and then brought my machine up. It seemed to run normally. So, I attached the eSATA cable to the hard drive and then to one of the ports on the card. So far, so good. Then, I powered the drive up and it appeared on the desktop. I then fired up Disk Utility and erased the drive. That worked fine. Next, I tried to copy files to it and that worked.
As a matter of course, I always like to erase a new drive with the "write zeros to all sectors". This verifies that every sector on the drive can be written to without any problems. I don't know if this really accomplishes anything. But, it would seem to validate that the drive works fine.
So, I started this process knowing that it would take a long time for a drive this large (500 GB). This seemed to proceed normally as I checked it from time to time. But, after a number of hours (with only 13 minutes remaining), the entire system hung. I could not do anything except press the button on the front of the machine.
After the machine came back up, it seemed to run normally. But, as I started running applications, I could tell all was not well. The system hung from time to time. Each time, it took 10 or 15 minutes to become responsive.
Finally, I got disgusted and powered everything down and removed the suspect PCI card. Since I did that, the machine works fine.
The drive is now connected using the Firewire 800 cable and seems to work fine. But, it doesn't seem especially fast. I have other drives attached using Firewire 400. Is it possible to have drives attached to both Firewire busses and still get the performance advertised by Firewire 800?
Also, is there an eSATA card that will work in my machine and still provide the advertised eSATA performance (1.5Gbits per second/150MB/second)?
With the drive connected to the Firewire 800 port, it honestly doesn't seem any faster than any of the other Firewire 400 drives.

I didn't say what to do, only options and tried to point out WHY.
This is what I know, these are possible explanations. And alternatives.
most PCI cards are NOT a fixed 66MHz, very very small market. And most PCI slots are not 66MHz only. The Blue G3 and Xserve have used 66MHz PCI.
Your card should work. eSATA is slightly better than FW800. But you are going through a 'bridge' between the drive and the PCI card, usually Oxford 924 chipset.
A direct SATA case for $68 would let you use two drives and get the 75MB/sec writing speed, which is about as much as you can expect from most SATA drives and in G5 anyway.
http://eshop.macsales.com/item/Other%20World%20Computing/MESATATBEK/
And here is a nice 500GB drive for $99
http://eshop.macsales.com/item/Maxtor/7H500F0/
Connect it to one of the eSATA ports on your LaCie SATA PCI card.
And yes, you have the single drive now.
When installing cards and drives, reset-nvram - either zap the pram from cold startup or boot into Open Firmware and type the reset-nvram and reset-all from there.
I know lots of people use and are happy with LaCie and D2. I am not one of them (I use to buy LaCie when it was Quantum back in early 90s).

Aperture vaults - setting up new computer with vault

Hi there.
I have a MacBook with a large aperture vault on a separate hard drive. I have now bought a new iMac. Can I use the vault from my Macbook to set up all my photos on my new machine, thereby saving me hours of work. HELP
Di from Devon

Yes, you can restore Aperture to another Mac from a Vault. Just do not expect it to be quick.
-Allen Wicks
From the manual:
Restoring Your Aperture System
If you buy a new computer or use another system at a different location and want
access to the Aperture library, you can install Aperture and then transfer the library
from your vault (on your backup disk) to the other computer. If you experience
equipment failure or other unexpected events, such as fire or weather-related damage
to your equipment, you can easily restore the entire library to your new computer from
a backup disk.
To restore the entire library from an external backup disk:
1 Connect the hard disk drive that contains the most up-to-date vault to your computer
and open Aperture.
2 Choose File > Vault > Restore Library.
The Restore Library dialog appears.
3 Choose Select Source Vault from the Source Vault pop-up menu.
4 Navigate to the vault from which you want to restore, then click Select.
5 Choose Select Destination from the Library Destination pop-up menu.
6 Navigate to the location where you want to place the library, then click Select.
7 Click Restore, then click Restore again.

When I open a raw file (NEF Nikon 7100) and apply setting then click save, I get an error ( could not complete your request because of a program error ). Ideas?

when I open a raw file (NEF Nikon 7100) and apply setting then click save, I get an error ( could not complete your request because of a program error ). Ideas?

Oh, dear.
If you use PSE as your external editor for iphoto, you need to save the images back to iphoto by using Save, not Save As and not changing anything like the name or format that would bring up the Save As window. (You may need to adjust the editor prefs>saving files>on first save to save over existing.)
OR you can export the photos from iphoto to the desktop, use file>open in the editor and then change whatever you want and either import the saved image to the organizer or import it back to iphoto as a new file. What you are doing is extremely risky, particularly to the iphoto library which you may easily damage by your workflow.
I would start the organizer holding down the shift key, then create a new catalog and switch to the new one. Then try opening the editor without opening an image and see if you get any farther.
PSE and iphoto are not designed to be used as you've been doing. You are trying to write to the iphoto library from outside iphoto, which is the fastest known way to corrupt the library and lose all your photos.

I cannot open Adobe Photoshop Elements Editor. I am working on a Mac. I get this message: "Could not complete your request because of program error". If I am in Organizor, that message will have a black box below it that says "Loading the Adobe Photoshop

I was using the program yesterday. I am just learning the program. I learned to download pictures by opening I-Photo and directing the edit process to Elements Editor. Then I stored the pictures in a album in Organizer. This morning when I turned the program on, I received the message above.

Oh, dear.
If you use PSE as your external editor for iphoto, you need to save the images back to iphoto by using Save, not Save As and not changing anything like the name or format that would bring up the Save As window. (You may need to adjust the editor prefs>saving files>on first save to save over existing.)
OR you can export the photos from iphoto to the desktop, use file>open in the editor and then change whatever you want and either import the saved image to the organizer or import it back to iphoto as a new file. What you are doing is extremely risky, particularly to the iphoto library which you may easily damage by your workflow.
I would start the organizer holding down the shift key, then create a new catalog and switch to the new one. Then try opening the editor without opening an image and see if you get any farther.
PSE and iphoto are not designed to be used as you've been doing. You are trying to write to the iphoto library from outside iphoto, which is the fastest known way to corrupt the library and lose all your photos.

I am running Photoshop CS6 on a Mac OS X 10.9.3 and every time I save a large eps I can not open it again. I get this message when I try. "Could not complete your request because Photoshop was unable to parse the PostScript."

I am running Photoshop CS6 on a Mac OS X 10.9.3 and every time I save a large eps I can not open it again. I get this message when I try. "Could not complete your request because Photoshop was unable to parse the PostScript."

Oh, dear.
If you use PSE as your external editor for iphoto, you need to save the images back to iphoto by using Save, not Save As and not changing anything like the name or format that would bring up the Save As window. (You may need to adjust the editor prefs>saving files>on first save to save over existing.)
OR you can export the photos from iphoto to the desktop, use file>open in the editor and then change whatever you want and either import the saved image to the organizer or import it back to iphoto as a new file. What you are doing is extremely risky, particularly to the iphoto library which you may easily damage by your workflow.
I would start the organizer holding down the shift key, then create a new catalog and switch to the new one. Then try opening the editor without opening an image and see if you get any farther.
PSE and iphoto are not designed to be used as you've been doing. You are trying to write to the iphoto library from outside iphoto, which is the fastest known way to corrupt the library and lose all your photos.

House fire damage to iMac

We recently had a house fire at our town home cluster. Our unit was damaged with smoke residue. The visible damage was in the room with our one year old 27 inch iMac. Is there some documentation or insurance standard that will allow for replacement? Everything with the insurance company is a fight and we fear the iMac failing a month or two after the claim is settled. Their response is "If it turns on it is OK".

It may cost you a bit out of pocket, but you might be able to take it to a service provider and have them do a diagnostic and open it to see if there is any visible damage. But, as varjak paw, the insurance company can just ignore it, but I would think with a written evaluation it would be harder for them to do so. And if they don't find anything wrong, it may give you peace of mind.
That being said, if the damage to your apartment was only smoke and the computer was turned off, there shouldn't be too much smoke residue drawn inside and once you clean off the outside, it should be fine.

Outside Damage to your equipment

Similar Messages

Maybe you are looking for