Overcharge battery?

hi i got a g4 powerbook and i always worrying about the battery! can u overcharge these things? does it matter if its plugged in lots?
what advice do u have to give a longer lasting battery?
su

This Apple note may be of interest: http://www.apple.com/batteries/notebooks.html Also, if you want to know a little more about charging cycles, this Apple note may also be of interest: http://www.apple.com/batteries/

Similar Messages

[Solved] UX21A seems to overcharge battery

I have an Asus Zenbook UX21A with Archlinux x86_64 fully up to date, where I have the following situation:
The charging cable has an LED which turns from orange to green when the battery has been fully charged.
And it does, BUT when I do
cat /sys/class/power_supply/BAT0/{energy_now,energy_full}
the value outputted for energy_now still keeps rising well above the value of energy_full and does not stop.
After about 5 minutes of keeping the laptop on AC after it having been completely charged
the value of energy_now already rises to about 105% of the value of energy_full.
Now I'm not sure if something is wrong and the battery keeps getting forefully overcharged or if it is
an error in the value being outputted.
Has anyone ever encountered this behaviour with this laptop model or any other and knows whether
this is simply a display error?
Last edited by Calrama (2013-02-23 11:28:58)

For other users encountering this later:
After several reboots and a fair time completely without power in between the energy_now counter now
stops at about 101.99% of energy_full.
That in itself is still strange, but at least it seems to only be a display bug and no actual overcharging
occurs. The exact values (when fully charged) are:
/sys/class/power_supply/BAT0/energy_full: 35520000
/sys/class/power_supply/BAT0/energy_now: 36230000

My battery needs service as it is not working for long. Apple claims it is not a defective battery and that it is my fault since I had the computer for 2 1/2 years and have only run the battery down to empty 100 times. It is my fault because I did no

Con't
Apple claims that because I did not drain my battery frequently and kept it plugged in for extended periods of time, that it is my fault the battery is failing. I disagree because I was not ever told to consistently drain my battery before recharging or not to keep it on and plugs in for extended periods of time. I do keep my desktop computer on most of the time and that is why I have kept my Macbook air on for extended time periods. I feel that Applecare should cover this battey issue and not charge me for replacing the battey. I feel I should have been told to not keep my computer consistently running on with poweror the battery will fail. Has anyone had this problem? Apple should replace my battery under Apple care as my battery does not keep a charge anymore.
I'll wait to hear.

You said---Apple claims that because I did not drain my battery frequently
You said--- I was not ever told to consistently drain my battery before recharging
You should never do that on purpose, whoever told you that had it wrong or you misunderstood something
Sure you dont have that backwards? thats exactly what you DONT want to do.
Did you often drain the battery very low? that would explain a lot.
Someone might have been misinformed about "battery calibration" regarding much older Macs with removable batteries (see bottom)
You said-----I do keep my desktop computer on most of the time and that is why I have kept my Macbook air on for extended time periods.
thats a problem there, youre not supposed to do that.
Keeping batteries connected to a charger ensures that periodic "top-ups" do very minor but continuous damage to individual cells, hence Apples recommendation above:   “Apple does not recommend leaving your portable plugged in all the time”, …this is because “Li-ion degrades fastest at high state-of-charge”.
                    This is also the same reason new Apple notebooks are packaged with 50% charges and not 100%.
http://www.apple.com/batteries/notebooks.html
"Apple does not recommend leaving your portable plugged in all the time."
*If you don’t plan on using it for a few hours, turn it OFF (plugged in or otherwise) ..*You don’t want your Macbook both always plugged in AND in sleep mode       (When portable devices are charging and in the on or sleep position, the current that is drawn through the device is called the parasitic load and will alter the dynamics of charge cycle. Battery manufacturers advise against parasitic loading because it induces mini-cycles.)
Keep it plugged in when near a socket so you keep the charging cycles down on your LiPo (lithium polymer) cells / battery, but not plugged in all the time. When not being used for several hours, turn it off.
And best "tip" is if its near a socket,...plug it in as long as you can (especially at home) since cycle count on the battery are the "miles that wear out the tires (battery)", however again, not plugged in all or most of the time.
General rule to remember of Lithium batteries is:
Never drain them LOW & dont always/often store them HIGH
While cycle count is commonly seen to be the “miles” on your Lithium Ion pack cell in your Macbook, which they are, this distinction is not a fine line at all, and it is a big misconception to “count charge cycles”
*A person who has, for example, 300 charge cycles on their battery and is recharging at say 50-60% remaining of a 100% charge has better battery usage and care than another person who has 300 charge cycles at say 15% remaining on a 100% charge.
DoD (depth of discharge) is far more important on the wear and tear on your Macbook battery than any mere charge cycle count. *There is no set “mile” or wear from a charge cycle in general OR in specific.    As such, contrary to popular conception, counting cycles is not conclusive whatsoever, rather the amount of deep DoD on an averaged scale of its use and charging conditions.
                          (as a very rough analogy would be 20,000 hard miles put on a car vs. 80,000 good miles being something similar)
*Contrary to some myths out there, there is protection circuitry in your Macbook and therefore you cannot overcharge it when plugged in and already fully charged
LiPo (lithium polymer, same as in your Macbook) batteries do not need conditioning. However...
A lot of battery experts call the use of Lithium cells the "80% Rule" ...meaning use 80% of the charge or so, then recharge them for longer overall life.
Never let your Macbook go into shutdown and safe mode from loss of power, you can corrupt files that way, and the batteries do not like it.
The only quantified abuse seen to Lithium cells are instances when often the cells are repeatedly drained very low…. key word being "often"
Contrary to what some might say, Lithium batteries have an "ideal" break in period. First ten cycles or so, don't discharge down past 40% of the battery's capacity. Same way you don’t take a new car out and speed and rev the engine hard first 100 or so miles.
Proper treatment is still important. Just because LiPo batteries don’t need conditioning in general, does NOT mean they dont have an ideal use / recharge environment. Anything can be abused even if it doesn’t need conditioning.
From Apple on batteries:
http://support.apple.com/kb/HT1446
http://www.apple.com/batteries/
Storing your MacBook
If you are going to store your MacBook away for an extended period of time, keep it in a cool location (room temperature roughly 22° C or about 72° F). Make certain you have at least a 50% charge on the internal battery of your Macbook if you plan on storing it away for a few months; recharge your battery to 50% or so every six months roughly if being stored away. If you live in a humid environment, keep your Macbook stored in its zippered case to prevent infiltration of humidity on the internals of your Macbook which could lead to corrosion.
Considerations:
Your battery is subject to chemical aging even if not in use. A Lithium battery is aging as soon as its made, regardless.
In a perfect (although impractical) situation, your lithium battery is best idealized swinging back and forth between 20 and 85% SOC (state of charge) roughly.
Further still how you discharge the battery is far more important than how it is either charged or stored short term, and more important long term that cycle counts.
Ultimately counting charge cycles is of little importance. Abuse in discharging (foremost), charging, and storing the battery and how it affects battery chemistry is important and not the ‘odometer’ reading, or cycle counts on the battery.
Everything boils down to battery chemistry long term, and not an arbitrary number, or cycle count.
Keep your macbook plugged in when near a socket since in the near end of long-term life, this is beneficial to the battery.
Peace
Battery calibration, battery memory, battery overcharging, battery training, …all these concepts are mostly holdovers from much older battery technology, and on older Apple portable Macbooks ranging from early nicads, NiMh and otherwise; and these practices do not apply to your lithium battery and its smart controllers.
Calibrating the battery on older Apple portable Macbooks with removable batteries.
http://support.apple.com/kb/PH14087
There is no calibration of current Apple portable Macbooks with built-in batteries.
http://support.apple.com/ht1490
There is no battery calibration with current Apple portable Macbooks with built-in batteries. Lithium batteries have essentially a 0-‘memory’, and all such calibration involve the estimations fed to the system controller on the SOC (state of charge) of the battery over long periods of time as the battery degrades. The software based battery controller knows the battery's characteristics, or SOC and adjusts itself. This is why there is both no need and purpose to periodically deeply drain your macbook battery, since it doesn’t affect the characteristics of the battery, and further still deep discharges are something you should not do on purpose to any lithium battery.

I just recalibrated my battery and now cannot remove anything from my dock. Don't know if this has anything to do with it or not. I have moved it up the screen and held it and still returns to the dock. What now?

I do not know if this has anything to do with my problem or not. I just recalibrated my battery and now cannot remove anything from the dock. I have moved it half way up and held it and it just goes back to the dock. Will not let me even put it in the trash. I am new to the macbook so would you please help me?

There is NO calibration on a modern macbook
Battery calibration, battery memory, battery overcharging, battery training, …all these concepts are mostly holdovers from much older battery technology, and on older Apple portable Macbooks ranging from early nicads, NiMh and otherwise; and these practices do not apply to your lithium battery and its smart controllers.
Current Apple portable computer batteries are pre-calibrated and are not to be calibrated
http://support.apple.com/kb/ht1490
There is no battery calibration with current Apple portable Macbooks with built-in batteries. Lithium batteries have essentially a 0-‘memory’, and all such calibration involve the estimations fed to the system controller on the SOC (state of charge) of the battery over long periods of time as the battery degrades. The software based battery controller knows the battery's characteristics, or SOC and adjusts itself. This is why there is both no need and purpose to periodically deeply drain your macbook battery, since it doesn’t affect the characteristics of the battery, and further still deep discharges are something you should not do on purpose to any lithium battery.

Whats better for my mbp 2013 retina in the long run? Keep it plugged in as much as possible or letting the battery hit 10% and then recharge it?

Whats better for my mbp 2013 retina in the long run? Keep it plugged in as much as possible or letting the battery hit 10% and then recharge it?

Odd you ask that, since both are HORRIBLE,   ... especially often draining your battery low.
General consideration of your MacBook battery
Contrary to popular myths about notebook batteries, there is protection circuitry in your Macbook and therefore you cannot ‘overcharge’ your notebook when plugged in and already fully charged.
However if you do not plan on using your notebook for several hours, turn it off (plugged in or otherwise), since you do not want your Macbook ‘both always plugged in and in sleep mode’.
A lot of battery experts call the use of Lithium-Ion cells the "80% Rule", meaning use 80% of the full charge or so, then recharge them for longer overall life. The only quantified damage done in the use of Lithium Ion batteries are instances where the internal notebook battery is “often drained very low”, this is bad general use of your notebook battery.
A person who has, for example, 300 charge cycles on their battery and is recharging at say 40% remaining of a 100% charge has a better battery condition state than, say, another person who has 300 charge cycles on their battery and is recharging at say 10-15% remaining on a 100% charge. DoD (depth of discharge) is much more important on the wear and tear on your Macbook’s battery than the count of charge cycles. There is no set “mile” or wear from a charge cycle in specific. Frequent high depth of discharge rates (draining the battery very low) on a Lithium battery will hasten the lowering of maximum battery capacity.
All batteries in any device are a consumable meant to be replaced eventually after much time, even under perfect use conditions.
If the massive amount of data that exists on lithium batteries were to be condensed into a simplex, helpful, and memorable bit of information it would be:
1. While realistically a bit impractical during normal everyday use, a lithium battery's longevity and its chemistry's health is most happy swinging back and forth between 20% and 85% charge roughly.
2. Do not purposefully drain your battery very low (10% and less), and do not keep them charged often or always high (100%).
3. Lithium batteries do not like the following:
A: Deep discharges, as meaning roughly 10% or less on a frequent basis.
B: Rapid discharges as referring to energy intensive gaming on battery on a frequent basis (in which case while gaming, if possible, do same on power rather than battery). This is a minor consideration.
C: Constant inflation, as meaning always or most often on charge, and certainly not both in sleep mode and on charge always or often.
From Apple on batteries:
http://www.apple.com/batteries/notebooks.html
http://support.apple.com/kb/HT1446
"Apple does not recommend leaving your portable plugged in all the time."
Keep it plugged in when near a socket so you keep the charging cycles down on your LiPo (lithium polymer) cells / battery, but not plugged in all the time. When not being used for several hours, turn it off.
DoD (depth of discharge) is far more important on the wear and tear on your Macbook battery than any mere charge cycle count. *There is no set “mile” or wear from a charge cycle in general OR in specific.    As such, contrary to popular conception, counting cycles is not conclusive whatsoever, rather the amount of deep DoD on an averaged scale of its use and charging conditions.
                          (as a very rough analogy would be 20,000 hard miles put on a car vs. 80,000 good miles being something similar)
*Contrary to some myths out there, there is protection circuitry in your Macbook and therefore you cannot overcharge it when plugged in and already fully charged
*However if you don’t plan on using it for a few hours, turn it OFF (plugged in or otherwise) ..*You don’t want your Macbook both always plugged in AND in sleep mode       (When portable devices are charging and in the on or sleep position, the current that is drawn through the device is called the parasitic load and will alter the dynamics of charge cycle. Battery manufacturers advise against parasitic loading because it induces mini-cycles.)
Keeping batteries connected to a charger ensures that periodic "top-ups" do very minor but continuous damage to individual cells, hence Apples recommendation above:   “Apple does not recommend leaving your portable plugged in all the time”, …this is because “Li-ion degrades fastest at high state-of-charge”.
                    This is also the same reason new Apple notebooks are packaged with 50% charges and not 100%.
Contrary to what some might say, Lithium batteries have an "ideal" break in period. First ten cycles or so, don't discharge down past 40% of the battery's capacity. Same way you don’t take a new car out and speed and rev the engine hard first 100 or so miles.
Proper treatment is still important. Just because LiPo batteries don’t need conditioning in general, does NOT mean they dont have an ideal use / recharge environment. Anything can be abused even if it doesn’t need conditioning.
Storing your MacBook
If you are going to store your MacBook away for an extended period of time, keep it in a cool location (room temperature roughly 22° C or about 72° F). Make certain you have at least a 50% charge on the internal battery of your Macbook if you plan on storing it away for a few months; recharge your battery to 50% or so every six months roughly if being stored away. If you live in a humid environment, keep your Macbook stored in its zippered case to prevent infiltration of humidity on the internals of your Macbook which could lead to corrosion.
Considerations:
Your battery is subject to chemical aging even if not in use. A Lithium battery is aging as soon as its made, regardless.
In a perfect (although impractical) situation, your lithium battery is best idealized swinging back and forth between 20 and 85% SOC (state of charge) roughly.
Further still how you discharge the battery is far more important than how it is either charged or stored short term, and more important long term that cycle counts.
Ultimately counting charge cycles is of little importance. Abuse in discharging (foremost), charging, and storing the battery and how it affects battery chemistry is important and not the ‘odometer’ reading, or cycle counts on the battery.
Everything boils down to battery chemistry long term, and not an arbitrary number, or cycle count.
Keep your macbook plugged in when near a socket since in the near end of long-term life, this is beneficial to the battery.
In a lithium battery, deep discharges alter the chemistry of the anode to take up lithium ions and slowly damages the batteries capacity for the cathode to transport lithium ions to the anode when charging, thereby reducing max charge levels in mAh. In short, radical swings of power to lithium cells disrupts the chemical ecosystem of the battery to hold charges correctly which likewise impedes the perfect transfer of lithium ions both in charging and discharging. In charging your lithium battery, lithium ions are “pushed uphill” (hard) to the anode, and discharged “downhill” (easy) to the cathode when on battery power. Deep discharges, damages this “upward” electrolyte chemistry for the battery to maintain a healthy charge and discharge balance relative to its age and cycles.
Optimally, in terms of a healthy lithium battery and its condition, it is most happy at 50% between extremes, which is why low-power-drain processors such as the Haswell are ideal on lithium battery health since a partially charged battery with a low-drain processor has, in general, much more usage in hours
Battery calibration, battery memory, battery overcharging, battery training, …all these concepts are mostly holdovers from much older battery technology, and on older Apple portable Macbooks ranging from early nicads, NiMh and otherwise; and these practices do not apply to your lithium battery and its smart controllers.
Calibrating the battery on older Apple portable Macbooks with removable batteries.
http://support.apple.com/kb/PH14087
There is no calibration of current Apple portable Macbooks with built-in batteries.
http://support.apple.com/kb/ht1490
There is no battery calibration with current Apple portable Macbooks with built-in batteries. Lithium batteries have essentially a 0-‘memory’, and all such calibration involve the estimations fed to the system controller on the SOC (state of charge) of the battery over long periods of time as the battery degrades. The software based battery controller knows the battery's characteristics, or SOC and adjusts itself. This is why there is both no need and purpose to periodically deeply drain your macbook battery, since it doesn’t affect the characteristics of the battery, and further still deep discharges are something you should not do on purpose to any lithium battery.
From BASF: How Lithium Batteries work
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2PjyJhe7Q1g
Peace

Battery Charge on 2013 MBPr 15

Regarding to some posts;
a. To maintain a healthy battery on my newly purchased MBPr 15 inch, I am to drain the battery to around 20% before charing it again. Since this will minimize the no. of charge cycles the batter will have to undergo. It is very bad to leave the charger on after your mac's battery hits 100% since it will do something like a trickle charge. (continuously charging your battery once it drains 1% 99<->100)
b. The new MPBr chargers are using new technology which does not trickle charge the Mac. Therefore, even if i leave the charger on after fully charging my battery, it would not damage the battery. (With that being said, it is still healthy for the battery if i unplug it and do a complete drain down to like 5%)
Just wanted to clarify which is the best way to protect my battery. Which one is more accurate?
Aside from school, this macbook pro will be used somewhere close to outlets most of the time. Please let me know what's the best way to maintain the health of my battery.

Keep it plugged in when near a socket so you keep the charging cycles down on your LiPo (lithium polymer) cells / battery, but not plugged in all the time. When not being used for several hours, turn it off.
http://www.apple.com/batteries/notebooks.html
"Apple does not recommend leaving your portable plugged in all the time."
General rule to remember of Lithium batteries is:
Never drain them LOW & dont always/often store them HIGH
While cycle count is commonly seen to be the “miles” on your Lithium Ion pack cell in your Macbook, which they are, this distinction is not a fine line at all, and it is a big misconception to “count charge cycles”
*A person who has, for example, 300 charge cycles on their battery and is recharging at say 50-60% remaining of a 100% charge has better battery usage and care than another person who has 300 charge cycles at say 15% remaining on a 100% charge.
DoD (depth of discharge) is far more important on the wear and tear on your Macbook battery than any mere charge cycle count. *There is no set “mile” or wear from a charge cycle in general OR in specific.    As such, contrary to popular conception, counting cycles is not conclusive whatsoever, rather the amount of deep DoD on an averaged scale of its use and charging conditions.
                          (as a very rough analogy would be 20,000 hard miles put on a car vs. 80,000 good miles being something similar)
*Contrary to some myths out there, there is protection circuitry in your Macbook and therefore you cannot overcharge it when plugged in and already fully charged
*However if you don’t plan on using it for a few hours, turn it OFF (plugged in or otherwise) ..*You don’t want your Macbook both always plugged in AND in sleep mode       (When portable devices are charging and in the on or sleep position, the current that is drawn through the device is called the parasitic load and will alter the dynamics of charge cycle. Battery manufacturers advise against parasitic loading because it induces mini-cycles.)
Keeping batteries connected to a charger ensures that periodic "top-ups" do very minor but continuous damage to individual cells, hence Apples recommendation above:   “Apple does not recommend leaving your portable plugged in all the time”, …this is because “Li-ion degrades fastest at high state-of-charge”.
                    This is also the same reason new Apple notebooks are packaged with 50% charges and not 100%.
LiPo (lithium polymer, same as in your Macbook) batteries do not need conditioning. However...
A lot of battery experts call the use of Lithium cells the "80% Rule" ...meaning use 80% of the charge or so, then recharge them for longer overall life.
Never let your Macbook go into shutdown and safe mode from loss of power, you can corrupt files that way, and the batteries do not like it.
The only quantified abuse seen to Lithium cells are instances when often the cells are repeatedly drained very low…. key word being "often"
Contrary to what some might say, Lithium batteries have an "ideal" break in period. First ten cycles or so, don't discharge down past 40% of the battery's capacity. Same way you don’t take a new car out and speed and rev the engine hard first 100 or so miles.
Proper treatment is still important. Just because LiPo batteries don’t need conditioning in general, does NOT mean they dont have an ideal use / recharge environment. Anything can be abused even if it doesn’t need conditioning.
From Apple on batteries:
http://support.apple.com/kb/HT1446
http://www.apple.com/batteries/
Storing your MacBook
If you are going to store your MacBook away for an extended period of time, keep it in a cool location (room temperature roughly 22° C or about 72° F). Make certain you have at least a 50% charge on the internal battery of your Macbook if you plan on storing it away for a few months; recharge your battery to 50% or so every six months roughly if being stored away. If you live in a humid environment, keep your Macbook stored in its zippered case to prevent infiltration of humidity on the internals of your Macbook which could lead to corrosion.
Considerations:
Your battery is subject to chemical aging even if not in use. A Lithium battery is aging as soon as its made, regardless.
In a perfect (although impractical) situation, your lithium battery is best idealized swinging back and forth between 20 and 85% SOC (state of charge) roughly.
Further still how you discharge the battery is far more important than how it is either charged or stored short term, and more important long term that cycle counts.
Ultimately counting charge cycles is of little importance. Abuse in discharging (foremost), charging, and storing the battery and how it affects battery chemistry is important and not the ‘odometer’ reading, or cycle counts on the battery.
Everything boils down to battery chemistry long term, and not an arbitrary number, or cycle count.
Keep your macbook plugged in when near a socket since in the near end of long-term life, this is beneficial to the battery.
Peace
some usefull, partially "ok, interesting" information on same
Gaming: In cases of heavy and frequent use in gaming it is recommended, if possible, to keep your Mac plugged in since these frequent fast and deep discharges of the battery are not ideal for battery longevity.
If you were to always keep your macbook battery floating between 20% and 80% charge roughly, then you’d have no other considerations to make about your battery and its care,… except for long-term storage.
Natural changes of capacity in lithium batteries happens when they undergo cathode degradation at roughly 20% per year where Ion exchange becomes less efficient. Mostly low draining (deep DOD) and to a much lesser degree high standing charge rates accelerate this process. Unnatural capacity for lithium battery charges changes, and chemistry changes in a lithium battery when often pushed or pulled to extremes
In a lithium battery, deep discharges alter the chemistry of the anode to take up lithium ions and slowly damages the batteries capacity for the cathode to transport lithium ions to the anode when charging, thereby reducing max charge levels in mAh. In short, radical swings of power to lithium cells disrupts the chemical ecosystem of the battery to hold charges correctly which likewise impedes the perfect transfer of lithium ions both in charging and discharging. In charging your lithium battery, lithium ions are “pushed uphill” (hard) to the anode, and discharged “downhill” (easy) to the cathode when on battery power. Deep discharges, damages this “upward” electrolyte chemistry for the battery to maintain a healthy charge and discharge balance relative to its age and cycles.
Optimally, in terms of a healthy lithium battery and its condition, it is most happy at 50% between extremes, which is why low-power-drain processors such as the Haswell are ideal on lithium battery health since a partially charged battery with a low-drain processor has, in general, much more usage in hours
Battery calibration, battery memory, battery overcharging, battery training, …all these concepts are mostly holdovers from much older battery technology, and on older Apple portable Macbooks ranging from early nicads, NiMh and otherwise; and these practices do not apply to your lithium battery and its smart controllers.
Calibrating the battery on older Apple portable Macbooks with removable batteries.
http://support.apple.com/kb/PH14087
There is no calibration of current Apple portable Macbooks with built-in batteries.
http://support.apple.com/kb/ht1490
There is no battery calibration with current Apple portable Macbooks with built-in batteries. Lithium batteries have essentially a 0-‘memory’, and all such calibration involve the estimations fed to the system controller on the SOC (state of charge) of the battery over long periods of time as the battery degrades. The software based battery controller knows the battery's characteristics, or SOC and adjusts itself. This is why there is both no need and purpose to periodically deeply drain your macbook battery, since it doesn’t affect the characteristics of the battery, and further still deep discharges are something you should not do on purpose to any lithium battery.
From BASF: How Lithium Batteries work
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2PjyJhe7Q1g
How its made, Lithium batteries
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HJrNCjVS0gk
Bad discharging or battery use conditions:
Heat (due to environmental conditions or due to rapid discharges from heavy use = gaming / video editing)
Rapid discharging of the battery frequently causes chemical changes over time in the battery leading to decreased capacity and resistance of current flow.
The very worst use of your battery is often draining the battery very low, and worse still letting it remain in such a state.
*Most long-term rapid damage to the battery occurs from discharging it with high loading (gaming) conditions but paramount is avoiding deep and frequent low DOD (depths of discharge) in use.
Undesirable charging or charged conditions:
High perpetual SOC (state of charge), where the battery is always or very often connected to charge
Parasitic loading where the battery is both usually on and charging or worse both always charging and in sleep mode, since this induces mini-cycling of the battery.
Bad general handling conditions:
Temperature use conditions when either too hot (95F and above) or too cold (50F and below)
Storing your battery away with a low charge (40% and less) long-term.
Considerations:
Your battery is subject to chemical aging even if not in use. A Lithium battery is aging as soon as its made, regardless.
In a perfect (although impractical) situation, your lithium battery is best idealized swinging back and forth between 20 and 85% SOC (state of charge) roughly.
Further still how you discharge the battery is far more important than how it is either charged or stored short term.
Ultimately counting charge cycles is of little to no importance. Abuse in discharging (foremost), charging, and storing the battery and how it affects battery chemistry is important and not the ‘odometer’ reading, or cycle counts on the battery.
Everything boils down to battery chemistry long term, and not an arbitrary number, or cycle count.
Keep your macbook plugged in when near a socket since in the near end of long-term life, this is beneficial to the battery.

Can an iphone 3g battery leak of explode on overcharge?

It just happened to 2 of then handsets in my home. One sony ericsson w350i and other nokia 1100. They were left to overcharge a couple of times and then the battery just stopped working. Upon observation the whole battery had swollen up, without any external leaks. I was wondering if something like this can happen with the iPhone 3g or is the firmware smart enough to make it stop charging on full charge?
I also bought an app called sleep cycle which requires iPhone to be running overnight without screen lock and is recommends users to keep it plugged in to the charger so that it can stay up to sound the intended wake up alarm. Is this bad for the battery?
Neerav

I hope thats the same case with the MacBooks as well. Recently I had to get the battery replaced. I would keep it plugged in all the time and never re calibrated in 4 months! Now, I just drain it onces a week or 10 days and intend to calibrate it once a month.

Is it possible to overcharge the iPhone 6 Plus battery? Will leaving the phone plugged in when not in use damage the battery?

Will leaving your iPhone 6+ plugged in all the time damage the battery or shorten its life? Can you overcharge the iPhone 6+ battery?
Thanks in advance,
Bill

No

My battery app says i overcharged my ipod touch 5g

ok so my ipod touch 5g was at 20% when i went to bed which was at like 12:00. i woke up at 9:30 and it says it was overcharged. the name of the app is battery doctor.

I know of no way to overcharge an iPod unless the charging source malfunctioned. Seems like a problem with the Battery Doctor app. See this previous discussion
Re: Battery Doctor app says iPhone 5 overcharged

IPad 2 battery life after overcharging

Hello everybody.
I recently accidentally left my iPad 2 on charge for about 2 hours after it had reached 100%. My iPad has never been through a complete battery cycle. Now that I have taken it off charge it seems as though it is losing battery faster than when it hadn't been fully charged.
I hope for an answer.
Thanks in advance.

If you are using the Apple charger that came with it then you can't overcharge it, but if it appears to be losing it's charge quicker than usual then try doing a charge cycle and see if that makes any difference.
There are also tips on maximising the battery life between charges on this page : http://www.apple.com/batteries/ipad.html

How do I know if my iphone battery is overcharge?

Please help, what is the indication that my iphone battery is overcharged?

You cannot overcharge your battery. This is a myth.
Here are the best practices for battery optimization:
1) Turn off Airdrop: Control Center >AirDrop > Off
2) Limit background app refresh. Turn it off for applications such as Google/Facebook.Settings > General > Background App Refresh
3) Turn off automatic updates: Settings > iTunes & App Store > Updates and Apps (off)
4) Unneccessary Location Services: Settings > Privacy > Location Services > System Services > Off (uncheck as needed)
5) Turn off Paralax: Settings > General > Accessibility > Reduce Motion
6) Siri, and her 'raise to speak.' Turn it off: Settings > General > Siri > Raise to Speak
7) Exclude items from Spotlight search as needed: Settings > General > Spotlight Search
8) Remove unneccessary notifications: Settings > Notification Center > None (per app basis)
9) Make sure auto-brightness is on, or reduce the brightness to 25% or less if desired.Settings > Wallpapers & Brightness
10) Use Still backgrounds only: Settings > Wallpapers & Brightness> Choose Wallpaper
11) Fetch email instead of "Push": Settings > Mail, Contacts, Calendar > Fetch New Data >Push(off) & Fetch every 15 minutes
12) Disable LTE if needed: Settings > Cellular > Enable 4G/LTE (OFF)
13) Reduce Autolock: Settings > General > Auto-Lock > 1 Minute
14) Disable Vibrations with Ring: Settings > Sounds > Vibrate on Ring (off)
15) Close Applications regularly: Double Tap Home Button > Swipe up on App to close

Does overcharging iphone/ipad/ipod decrease battery life ?

does overcharging iphone/ipad/ipod decrease battery life ?

If you haven't, I'd check out this kb for starters.....
http://support.apple.com/kb/HT4060

If you overcharge your ipod does the battery life die? Could u replace it?

I've some times overcharge my iPod because i forget it on the computer, but lately I've been noticing a shortage in the amount of time it plays songs and videos. Is this becuase the battery is weakening? would I be able to replace it?

The battery stops charging once it is fully charged.
See these for some tips and info on how to get a longer battery life...
Tips And Tricks For iPod Battery
iPod Battery Unplugged
Caring For iPod Battery
About the iPod Battery
And use this to test how long the battery actually lasts...
How To Determine Your iPods Battery Life
btabz

Can you overcharge the battery?

I know you can kill a cell phone battery by overcharging it. I know the iPod has a lithium-ion battery. Is that the kind you can charge at will (like my home cordless phone) as much as you want, or the kind like my cell phone that should deplete before recharging fully but no longer than that?
TIA

I know you can kill a cell phone battery by overcharging it.
No you can't.
kind like my cell phone that should deplete before recharging fully but no longer than that?
Don't know what kind of cell phone you have but I've never seen on like this.
NiCads should be charged fully before first use. They are prone to memory effects.
LIon batteries are not. Use them and charge them when you wnat.

I overcharged my ipad 2 battery for about 3 hours. what are the consequences, i overcharged my ipad 2 battery for about 3 hours. what are the consequences

i overcharged my ipad 2 battery for about 3 hours. what are the consequences? and there are these tiny fibers and dust that enters insideipad screen. how will i clean them. .please help

Relax, you cannot "over" charge it. The built in charging protection ensures it will not overcharge the battery or do any damage leaving it plugged in. Many folks (myself included) leave our iPads and iPhones plugged in overnight, all night, so they are charged and read for use the next day.

Overcharge battery?

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