P35 Neo2 FR Power supply connection

Hello,
Can you use a 4 pin power supply on the 8 pin connector to power the board? And if yes what is the orientation of the plug to the socket.
Thanks.

Yes. Without undo force it should only fit one way and lock in. The plug has a latch on it and the socket on the MB has a tab for it to lock onto. MB should have had a small bar blocking off the lower half of the 8 pin socket.

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P35 Neo2 front panel audio connections

Appologies if this has been covered elsewhere [I did search honest ]
I'm having trouble getting the case front headphone jack to work with my MSI P35 Neo2 motherboard. The connections from the case are;-
Speaker Right
Speaker Left
Speaker Right Rtn
Speaker Left Rtn
Mic IN
Mic Bias
Gnd
...and the motherboard JAUD1 connections are-
1 Mic-L
2 Gnd
3 Mic-R
4 Presence#
5 Line Out R
6 Mic-JD
7 Front JD
8 NC
9 Line Out L
10 Line Out JD
Since the manual states these conections are compliant with the Intel front Panel and seems to mention HD audio, am I wasting my time? Obviously I'd like the rear speakers to be disabled when I connect the headphones at the front.
Any clues?
Cheers

Quote from: NovJoe on 22-January-08, 21:28:53
Have you checked in realtek's audio manager and see if you could switch between front and rear individually?
Yes I did have a dig around with this because it senses when additional speakers etc are connect at the back. I cannot get the audio manager to acknowledge there is a front connect (with or without anything connected)

K8N Neo4 Platinum SLI power supply connection

I was wondering if the power connection type to the motherboard mattered. Does it need to be a 24 pin connection like what is on the board or would just a 20 pin connection, possibly with the other 4 pin connection along side it, be efficient at powering this board?

Quote from: bluesky_2005 on 14-April-05, 22:55:00
Hi,
I've notices that loads of people have an issue with power supply & SLI systems (AMD 64). It seems there is no ideal solution yet
Actually there are very good solutions, but many don't purchase the correct power supply at the time of the pruchase of their SLI motherboard. Same problem occured with users transitioning to Pentium III processors and the use of the old 250 Watt power supplies.
We just like to hold onto our parts as long as possible. Going with one of the supplies listed on http://www.SLIZONE.com will usually be a safe bet.
As to using the 20 pin connection instead of the 24pin, many have reported that it works. The additional pins are providing better amp support to the parts that need it, so I would consider a 20 pin without an adapter temporary. For a $7.00 part fix, it's worth it.
The point is that the copper traces on the motherboard may eventually fail if there is significant current demands and only the 20 pin is used, hasn't happened yet, but it's possible. The gauge wire used for the PSU though is more than sufficient in comparision, so that's why an adapter will help protect your motherboard investment.

No power. Power supply connected and green live shows current. photosmart c310.

This barely used piece of crap lost all its power shortly after warranty expired. This is evidently a common problem as there are all kinds of mention of it on the web. It was evident before I bought this thing. Only solution by HP is to buy power supply for $16.50 and spend $11 to have it shipped. I don't even know if this will correct problem. Would like to hear from someone who has solved this problem.

OK, if you plug the printer in and it does not power up with no lights, it could be the power supply. If you change the power supply and you have the same problem, the printer is defective and you need to have it serviced.
Say thanks by clicking the Kudos Thumbs Up to the right in the post.
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I worked for HP but now I'm retired!

Power supply connection problems

I have an HP Compaq 6715b and have gone through several power supplies - it does not take long before I lose connection between the male/female connection. I try to be gentle but this keeps happening, what is the problem? Is there a problem at the female end (inside the computer)? Would a docking station solve the problem? It seems to be an expensive solution jjust to get power.
Thanks
Greg

What is rating of the AC Adapter you got?
Based on the specification, you should be using a 90W AC Adapter such as 463955-001.
If you were using a 65W AC Adapter, then it is likely the 65W AC Adapter were running too hot and in turn cut down the life expectancy of this 65W AC Adapter.
If you were using a 90W AC Adapter, I think you are just unlucky to get some of the bad units.
Yes. A Docking will help. It is because it uses a 135W AC Adapter to the docking station and your laptop will get power via the docking connector at the bottom of your notebook.
However, there are so many type of HP docking stations and you need to make sure to order one for your notebook.

1. Power supply connected to new Cabinet - how lon...

2. How long does it take for BT Engineer to install new phone socket once order placed?
3. Has anyone tried the Billion BiAPC 8200N. I'm happy with the Hub 3 and expect the VDSL2 modem from BT to be OK. But a one box solution with 300Mpbs WLAN might be better.
4. Finally does anyone here use Windows Home Server to stream content via DLNA and to do backups. A server has many advantages over a Laptop. Not least of all potentially massive storage. I think a WHS would fit in well with my PC, Xbox 360, Android phone setup.

1. Your guess is as good as any.
2. Usualy 7 days.
3. I believe so, search the forums.
4. Yes I have the readyNAS duo setup, works great via my two smart TV's.
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Disable Firewire power supply

I have an audio interface A/D converter with its own "wall wart" power supply connected via Firewire to my Mini. This converter is also capable of being powered through Firewire. This added functionality is actually a bit of a nuisance. Is there any way of accessing the Firewire port so that I can disable its power supply function?
Mini Mac OS X (10.4.9)

Hi, thanks for the hospitality and the reply!
FW power isn't causing any trouble, per se, but when I power the studio down, the device remains "on" (it has no switch) unless I physically disconnect the FW.
I assume the device toggles power from the "wall wart" to the FW since the outlet on the power strip that my Mac is plugged into is always live.
Thanks again,
Tim
Mini
Mini Mac OS X (10.4.9)

3750X, Dual Power Supply, 1 in 110V and 1 in 208V

I have a Cisco WS-C3750X-12S swith with dual C3KX-PWR-350WAC power supplies that are both currently connected to 110V PDUs. We are being forced to migrate over to new 208V PDUs and I would like to know if it is possible to run this switch with one power supply connected to a 110V feed and the other power supply connected to a 208V feed?
I assume this will work as both power supplies are auto sensing and are rated for any input between 110V - 240V. Would there be any potential issues with this configuration?
This will only be needed for one week while the second 208V PDU is connected. I will need to migrate one PS to 208V, wait for the second PDU to be installed in my rack, and then move the second PS to 208V.
I was hoping to be able to migrate without having to reboot the switch as this would require a maintenance window and downtime for an important connection.
Thank you.

Hello,
That should be fine, I've seen customers actually run this in production for quite some time. You should be able to migrate this without downtime as long as you are not running a large number of POE devices that are reliant on XX amount of power at one time.
HTH
luke

The use of WS-CAC-6000W power supply

We are replacing the entire network in a refinery, using more than 100 Cisco switches.
I’d appreciate your help on a specific issue
1-Condition:
There are two supplies WS-CAC-6000W for the VS-C6513E-SUP2T
Each supply is connected to two 220VAC power inputs
Each 220VAC input of a power supply connects from distinct electrical panels
2-Fail scenario:
What happens if an electrical panel is off ?
3-Conclusion
The data sheet says that if single input is active, and running from 220VAC, the unit is capable of providing 2900W. The same data sheets says if there two power supplies they operate in load-sharing so, the output will be 6000w still
4-Is that conclusion correct?
Thanks
-Jose

Each 220VAC input of a power supply connects from distinct electrical panels
I have no idea who implemented this but this is incorrect.
Each PS has two input feeds. This is correct. Both input feeds MUST go to the same power source. Let's say you have two power feeds (like anyone else): One is "raw" power and one is UPS power.
So for PS 1, for instance, both input feeds must go to "raw" power. For PS 2, both feeds must go to UPS.
Your current setup means that one input feed from for each PS goes to "raw" power and the other input feed goes to UPS. This won't work. If you fail to UPS, the each power supply does/will NOT have enough input to power the line cards in the chassis.

Is W510's 135w Power Supply Safe To Use With T61?

I just ordered a new W510, whick of course comes with the 135w power supply. All documentation says that it is compatible with other Thinkpads goint back to the T400. There have been BIOS updates to accomodate the 135w supply on these machines.
I have a T61 (90w power). I plugged the 135w into it BRIEFLY, and the power manager indicated a 120w power supply connected.
---- Does this mean it IS safe to use the 135w brick with the T61? I need someone who is truly informed to weigh in.
Many thanks to all!

Hi and welcome to the forum!
See the KB:- http://forums.lenovo.com/t5/T61-and-prior-T-series-ThinkPad/AC-Adapter-Compatibility/ta-p/288146
Hope this helps.
Maliha (I don't work for lenovo)
ThinkPads:- T400[Win 7], T60[Win 7], IBM 240[Win XP]
IdeaPad: U350
Apple:- Macbook Air [Snow Leopard]
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Finding Address of Ethernet Controlled (VXI) Power Supply

I have a PXI system, and a TTI CPX400 power supply connected via Ethernet. In order to initialize and control these power supplies with the premade VIs, I need to supply a resource name in the form of: TCPIP0::<IP>::9221:OCKET. The concern I have is that each power supply has a different IP address, and in order to determine it, I need to connect the supply to a computer and run an LXI Discovery tool (http://tti-test.com/go/psx/psx-downloads/lxi-discovery_tool.zip), which is a windows, GUI based tool. I would like to know if anyone has a solution for identifying such a device and finding its address in some way that can be implemented from within a labview program, so that if a power supply is replaced, communication can be established without having to manually run the discovery tool and then enter that address into my configuration file. Also, the power supplies have unique host names, so I can't just look up the address that way.
Thanks for any suggestions.

By far the easiest is to just set a static IP address for each of your supplies. It is just let setting up a GPIB address. Most supplies have menus on the front panel so that you can set them to have a static address. I do this for all of my LAN instruments.
There are only two ways to tell somebody thanks: Kudos and Marked Solutions

1 yr old batt discharging, no led lamp on new power supply?

1 yr old batt discharging, no led lamp on new power supply?

17" MBP, Replaced batt 1 yr ago & 85W mag safe a week ago. Batt will intermittently discharge with power supply connected. Upon full batt discharge, LED no longer lit although still connected. Once batt fully discharged 0%, only thing that will resurrect it is literally unplugging power supply from AC. Upon recon to AC, batt will begin charging again & led on transformer will illuminate as normal.

Battery not charging, power supply not reliable

For a week or so I've had trouble recharging the battery in my 12" iBook g4. I had to fiddle with the power supply connection so the computer would recognize that it was plugged in, and the power icon in the top menu bar would flip randomly between running on battery, charging, and plugged in. Often I couldn't fully charge the battery, but it discharged at a normal rate.
Tonight my iBook battery abruptly dropped to reading either 1% or 0%. I tried connecting my usual power supply, which didn't register at all. I tried another power supply and got a few seconds of operation before the computer went to sleep again. So long as it's plugged in it does the same thing whether the battery is in or out.
I'm not sure whether this is a battery problem or a more basic computer problem--the logic board? something else? Any suggestions would be appreciated.

AH, I've basically had the same problem and found a fix! It is most likely a DC-Inboard issue with your iBook as my iBook would boot from the AC Adapter and if it did it would last a mere 20 seconds. The DC-Inboards are old now and die, the part is $10 on eBay, if you want to know for sure its the DC-Inoard plug in the Ac-Adapter and if it turns green you're good (It may be a other issue), it turns a yellow-ish color (Not ORANGE) then it is the DC-Inboard, the orange color can be both good or bad. The yellow-ish color is due to the DC-Inboard not being positive if it charging or not, and when this happens you can "Jiggle" the power cord to get it to boot (However it must stay on a desk and not move!) and if you're lucky you'll have enough time to back up any info you may have (Just for safety incase the DC-Inboard doesnt do the job!)
Here is a link for the DC-Inboard replacement- http://www.ifixit.com/Guide/iBook+G4+12-Inch+1.33+GHz+DC-In+Board+Replacement/69 9
Cheers, -JP

MSI P35 Neo2-FR do i need JPWR1 Connected for 2 x ATI Radeon 3850 256mb cards ?

hello,
Ive recently Brought a MSI P35 Neo2-FR motherboard and been running in single Sapphire 3850 256mb so decided to install my second Sapphire 3850 256mb.
PSU Ive got is a Hyper Type M 580watt but at moment Ive used all connections 4 pin molex connections and 2 to power second sapphire 3850MB card waiting for reply from hyper about what connection i can put the extender on safely coming off 1 that's used.
Its running Stable at moment without the JPWR1 connected just wondering if its for high end cards like the 2900XT that use's a lot more power then the 3850 and 3870's
Scores I'm getting so far are with a Intel Core 2 duo E8200
Single card - 3DMark 2006 - 9436 3DMarks
Crossfire enabled - 3DMark 2006 - 12356 3DMarks
Are these scores about right too ?

Quote from: Del UK on 17-February-08, 04:42:47
Which PSU, do you use Kimpsu?
Would have a guess it's dual +12V rail......
Antec or Seasonic.......
My current PSU is an Antec NeoHE 550W (though I've had many others too, like Zalman, Seasonic and Enermax), so in theory it has three 12V rails, 18A each. Well, of course it cannot feed 18A on each rail simultaneously, but still considering that's the limit, the limit should not be a bottle-neck. Luckily they are devided logically enough, one rail for the directly attached cables (which is the motherboard really) and two for the five detachable cables. And the two rails are logically divided, so putting my PCI-e cables at both ends I get pretty decent amps for two GFX cards (one rail for each) and the motherboard. The rest (HDDs, optical drives) are then attached to cables connected next to those cables, so in fact HDDs are on one rail together with one GFX card, and optical drives (and my fan controller) is on another rail with the other GFX card. Thus I get pretty even distribution between rails (lucky me).
It was one of the nicest quiet PSUs at the time of purchase. If I were to buy a PSU now I would probably get a Corsair, probably HX520 or HX620, but they have multiple 12V rails... VX series is fine too, only that there are no detachable cables, so although it is an option, I really need to think if I wan't a PSU that only has fixed cables...
Having multiple rails suck a bit (although on most PSUs they are not really separate rails, but still current limited), but luckily single rail PSUs are coming back after a couple of years of "multi rail fashion".
And yeah, PSUs made by Seasonic are pretty popular these days, like the Antec NeoHE I have, Corsair HX series, VX450 and so on.
PS. Good guess, though guessing Antec or Seasonic covers pretty much of the PSUs out there that are of a "quality" brand, at least if Seasonic covers the PSUs made by Seasonic for other companies like Corsair. And I don't mean other suck, just judging by how large % of all quality PSUs are Antec. And yes, there are a few models from Antec that really suck and have high failure rates, and cannot be called quality (like the CWT manufactured Smartpowers and the older Truepowers, also by CWT). Judging by just the company that puts the stickers on the case is not always wise, especially with Antec...
PPS. Judging from your signature, you have an Enermax and a Corsair VX550 (which is manufactured by CWT I believe). How do you like your Corsair? Is it quiet? I've been considering it as an option to replace my Antec (I'd like to have a single 12V rail). Also the TX-series is an option.

Which power supply for k8n neo2 Platinum

I need to buy a new power supply for my computer. With the ATX12V v2.2 standard and ATX12V 2.01 and the "no -5v on new psu's" issue I'm at a loss as to what to look for. I have looked and cannot find what "standard" (is that even the correct term?) the k8n neo2 supports.
My main requirement is that the psu be 550-650 watts and have modular cables. I know someday I will have to upgrade my system to PCI-E and modern components, so I would like a PSU that would work now and in the future.
Could someone point me in the right direction?
Many thanks
system spec's
Motherboard- MSI K8N Neo2 Platinum
CPU- AMD Athlon 64 X2 Dual core 4800 939 socket
Memory-CORSAIR 2X1G Twinx2048
Video- ATI HIS 4670 1GB AGP
HD- Seagate 100 gb 7200 rpm
Drives CD-DVD and CD-RW
PSU- Ultra X Connect 500W ATX
Sound- Creative SB Audigy2 Gamer
OS- WinXP Home SP3 32 bit

Why do you need 550-650W or is that just because of future needs? I would suggest one of the Corsair +12V single rail modular PSU's if you insist on the modular design. Check newegg for what they have for modular in the Corsair lineup. I'm sure you're aware that their price is considerably higher than the non-modular. K8 MB's that needed -5V are the early ones that had Creative Sound Blaster onboard audio.
HX650
   * Was: $139.99
   * $109.99
   * After $10.00 Rebate
   * $10.18 Shipping
That's what it is now but if you don't need it in a big hurry you can probably wait a while and get for the same price but with free shipping.
Edit: Gee, Ultra with blown caps, I just happen to have a xPRO 800W that blew some caps, repaired it and started going bad again and then got my TX650 to replace it. Got it for $70 after rebate (which I haven't received yet) by waiting for the right price, rebate and free shipping. VX550 would have been good enough but at the time I got the TX650 at a lower price.

P35 Neo2 FR Power supply connection

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