P35 Platinum Is my Mobo an antique already after only four years? D.O.T. ?

  Platinum LGA775 P-35 Express Chipset
  4GB DDR2 800MHz/PC6400/
  WinXP (soon to upgrade to Win7 (64) (and another 4GB DDR2 total 8GB)
  Intel Core 2 QUAD Q6600 2.40GHz (4cpu's)
  700W Thermaltake PSU
  GeForce Nvidia 8600GT 512MB GPU PCie
  Self-build July 2007
I have had my board for four years now, and everyone is telling me to upgrade to DDR3 memory with an i7 960,or 970 CPU, new Mobo that supports USB 3.0. Some of the MSI LGA Socket 1155 supports up to 32 DDR3 memory, should I hold out for a board with more? I love my MSI Platinum,but do previous MSI owners stay with MSI, or go over to ASUS for any better bells and whistles?
I have NEVER overclocked and had the DOT control disabled. In looking at the newer boards like Z68A-GD80,and all the genie instant overclocking button, I started thinking how many other people have NOT used their DOT control in BIOS. I don't think I've been getting the full potential out of my CPUs as I should have been. I changed the percentages of the DOT and enable BOTH CPU and PCIe. The CPU I changed the steps to 7%,14%,and 20%, and the same with the PCIe GPU. I've always heard that using the DOT can make the board unstable.
I am Not a gamer. I use Photoshop and Studio pinnacle 14HD Ultimate, which requires a lot of memory and resources. I thought this may help. If this is NOT recommended, please let me know,or if others do video capture, editing and burning DVD's as well as Photoshop CS3, please tell me if you have the same board, what changes have you done to increase performance, without MAJOR overclocking. I know it's a matter of time before I have to upgrade, but, money is the reason I'm not at this time. Thanks for any replies.

Quote
I love my MSI Platinum,but do previous MSI owners stay with MSI, or go over to ASUS for any better bells and whistles?
All the boards have similar bells and whistles within a similar price range, so there is no reason for changing.
Quote
I've always heard that using the DOT can make the board unstable.
Any overclocking can make a computer unstable. Most of us do overclocking in the BIOS and don't bother with hardware or software overclocking apps.
I used the P45 Platinum and was able to overclock that by about 35% stable. But I have since upgraded, as the performance of the previous boards just cannot be compared to todays boards anymore, and the efficiencies are so much better on the latest generation. No, your board is not an antique and there would be quite a few things you can do to increase performance, but I do suggest you open a new thread in the overclocking section of the forum to get advice. You can also search the overclocking section for threads that have been started by other P35 users.

Similar Messages

P35 Platinum Memory???

The book that came with the board states it is only compatible with DDR2 667/800 MHz memory, but if you look on there website in the documentation for that board it has 1066 MHz listed also in the specifications. Can I use 1066 MHz memory (PC8500) 8 GB max??? Someone please reply.
P35 Platinum Motherboard
Intel Q6600 2.4 GHz CPU (only using DOT)
2 WD HD RAID 0
Thermaltake CPU cooler
4 GB DDR2 PC6400 800 MHz memory
Windows Vista Ultimate x64

I don't have a P45 chipset, but as you can see above I have a P35 chipset. I had purchased some Corsair Dominator memory PC8500 1066 MHz. A total of 8 GB which is the max for this board. It says nothing about OC'd memory in the specs online for this board just DDR2 667/80/1066 MHz. The only reason I asked was I had originally installed these and was experiencing memory dumps on a fairly frequent occasion, but I think I have contributed that to Trend Micros's Internet Security software. There latest release for this year had been giving me other issues also. I uninstalled, but in the same token went back to the PC6400 800 MHz memory. Now I have recently installed the Corsair memory again and so far so good. I just have to leave the Advanced Dram Timings in the BIOS set to Auto, otherwise if I change anything the system will not boot. CPU-Z reports the timings at 5-7-7-24, and voltage to auto, which sets it to 1.8 volts I believe.This is actually not what the manufacturer says it should be, but it is stable. I also have the CPU Q6600 OC'd to 3.0 GHz. Like I said so far so good and I see a significant improvement from the 800 MHz memory.. Thanks for the info. If I find anything to the contrary I will re post here for all.

SLI and P35 Platinum Mobo

Is it possible to run a setup with two 6800GT cards on the MSI P35 Platinum Motherboard? If it is, any idea where I might find an SLI bridge for the cards?
Thanks
Pete

SLI requires an nVidia chipset that supports it. You have a board that uses an Intel chipset.

P35 Platinum and eSata problem

I recently bought a WD My Book Premium ES 500GB and when i try to connect it via eSata cable, it doesn't work.My system can't recognize the drive, it doesn't show up in BIOS screen where HDD's are. I tried 2 different eSata cables but nothing.Via USB2 connection it works fine.
My system Specs are: Intel Core 2 Duo E6600,MSI P35 Platinum Mobo with latest BIOS update 1.1, 2GB RAM DDR2, Asus X1950XT VGA,Tagan 500W PSU.
I tried both eSata ports at the Back Panel of my motherboard but none worked with My Book.
Is there a problem with My Book? or is a compatibility issue?

Make sure you have set the switch or whatever your external drive has, to E-Sata mode. I'm sure you probably already did that but just sayin!
I have a different board AND different external drive but after playing with my setup for a whole day trying to get the esata to work, it finally dawned on me that I had not set the switch from USB to Esata (no wisecracks please
As soon as I did the switch, the Esata started working just fine.
GL

P35 platinum crazy problem

we're professional pc producers
we're building 2 workstations with this components:
cabinet coolermaster stacker
p35 platinum
kingston memories (667,800,1066)
hdd western 320gb
psu coolermaster real power 700w
nvidia quadro 1500
now:
with 700w cooler master psu system wont boot or post, fan start about 3 sec then quit
no beeps, no leds.
with others psu's EVEN CHEAP 450W OR 500W system post FINE!!!
AND THE 700W COOLER MASTER IS WORKING PERFECTLY! cause it works with 10/20 other machines.
we've updated every kind of bios release
we've switched 667,800,1066 memory from kingston, a-data o buffalo
we've unplugged all peripherals
so. any1 ideas?
the problem is the same with all 2 mobos
1mill $ at guys that solve this issue

Quote from: RemusM on 21-March-08, 22:51:04
http://forum.coolermaster.com/viewtopic.php?p=79607
They suspect a ground issue, but also have been reported several 12V rail "abnormal behaviours".
hi all, thanks for posts. we already switched to enermax psus and everything is going just fine.
but the question about cooler master psu still remain...we've done some electric tests, but we didnt find any ground problems...regard the 12V rail...an "abnormal behaviours" is a *very* generic definition of the problem, so we dont understand where we have to look...
It would be nice to find where really is the problem, so we really can say they products are "mediocres" and feel free of suggest them or not...this way product judgment can be based on real technical facts and not personal opinions...

Problem installing MSI P35 Platinum & MSI NX8600GT & windows XP

Hi all,
I just bought my MSI P35 platinum mobo and MSI NX8600GT graphics card.
Was trying to install XP on it. During installation, got the following error message :
A problem has been detected and windows has been shut down to prevent damage to your computer.
If this is the first time you've seen this Stop error screen, restart your computer. If this appears again, follow these steps:
Check to be sure you have adequate disk space. If a driver is identified in the Stop message, disable the driver or check with the manufacturer for driver updates. Try changing video adapters.
Check with your hardware vendor for any BIOS updates. Disable BIOS memory options such as caching or shadowing. If you need to use safe mode to remove or disable components, restart your computer, press F8 to select Advanced Startup Options, and then select Safe Mode.
Technical Information:
*** Stop : 0X0000007E (0XC0000005, 0XF748E0BF, 0XF78DA208, 0XF78D9F08)
*** pci.sys - Address F748E0BF base at F7487000, DateStamp 3b7d855c
Then it just freezes there. Any ideas how I can resolve this ? Please help
Thanks ...

Quote from: NovJoe on 07-February-08, 00:17:44
Please post your full system specs and PSU specs amps.
Moan Guide
my system specs
Intel Pentium 4 - Intel E8200, LGA775 2.66GHz, 6MB L2 cache, 1333 Mhz FSB, 45nm
MSI P35 Platinum
3 x 1GB DDR2 Kingston 6400 CL5 800MHz
320GB Seagate SATA HDD
MSI NX8600GT 256MB
Windows XP Pro
PSU : I-CUTE ATX-450W/P4
The HDD was detected correctly in BIOS, memory also detected, Graphics card seems ok (how I can tell ?)
rgds

P35 Platinum: I have to press the power button multiple times to start

Hello fellow MSI customers,
as written in the subject, I have a problem with starting my PC. When I press the power button, the computer powers on, but there is no output to the screen. In fact, my LCD stays in standby mode. I can hear the fans running, so something is going on. According to the LEDs on the mainboard, it is a memory problem.
Now I turn the computer off, using the power button (have to hold it for a few seconds). When off, I start again and everything runs as it should.
After starting, I ran memtest86 multiple times without any errors. I ran a few games, compiled some programs, installed Vista 64bit, Linux, all without any crashes or hangups. It is just the starting that makes problems. After booting it is very stable.
Seeing that it could be a memory problem, I brought another pair of memory, just to be sure. I couldn't reproduce the problem on that day! Any type of memory I put in (the one before, or the newly brought home) the computer always started on the press of the button. So I thought, OK, maybe they were not seated correctly. But, alas, two days later it is again only starting by pressing the power button three times.
What I tried:
1. Boot using only 1 piece of memory stick
2. Boot using only 1 piece of memory, but different one
3. Use another pair of memory <- worked, but on that day it also worked using my original memory
4. Disconnected everything except graphics card, to make sure it is not a power supply issue (minimized power usage)
5. Tried all of the above with a different processor
6. Used another power supply
Any other ideas?
Here are my specs:
MSI P35 platinum
Core2 Q6600
Nvidia 7900GT
4GB V-Data DDR2 800MHz <--- I think this is the problem, any experiences?
Enermax Liberty 400W
a few other things (HDDs, XFi, DVD-RW)
By the way, how can I boot from an external DVD-RW? It doesn't show in the menu when I press F11 (boot menu).
Thank you for any help, muro
And just to let a bit of steam off:
1. I had major problems with the RAID controller (not MSI fault, rather intel) - I put two disks into a RAID 0, then RAID 1 and they always failed after a few boots - member missing on both disks. I was getting angry, so I put them as normal (non RAID) disks and everything is fine since, although no RAID.
2. Installing anything except windows with an IDE DVD-RW is very hard. It took me ages until I got Ubuntu booting (there are guides on the net, google is your friend), and much longer to get grub (boot loader) working. Long story short - if you have multiple disks, use the Linux disk as the bootable, do NOT put grub on the disk where Vista is installed.
3. I have no idea, how to update the BIOS, if I had to. I'm using 1.1 that came on the board. I use 64bit Vista and Linux, none of which is supported to upgrade the BIOS. Any hints how to do it (if I needed to)?

Hello,
now today is the day I've finally received my replacement board. The good news first - it DOES work! Yepeeee!
Now some more information:
The jmicron controller seems to be missing - a screen with something about "Marvel" is shown before the intel raid screen. However, it is only visible for a fraction of second, so I cannot read it. I think it detects my IDE DVD-RW so I'm quite certain it's the replacement for jmicron. I won't miss it - it took me ages to install Linux with the jmicron controller.
The problem where I had to restart the computer sometimes because it didn't even post (RAM error) is gone. It boots just fine now.
I had an extremely long first post - about a minute, but after that it boots very fast now.
anyway, regarding some questions around here - the manual states MSI recommends using an 350W power supply. My 400W is more than enough. Please note - it is an Enermax, not one bundled with a cheap case. My cheap RAM sticks also work very well now. I did try them on different boards before, so now I know I just had a faulty board.
In the end, I can only say this: This is my 3rd board already and it's the first one that works well. As the hardware changed, I presume there were major issues with this board that lead them to make a new revision. What is strange, though, is that the revision is still 1.1, as were my previous two. I pity everybody who had the same problems as I did, but I can now say that I'm very happy about the board now.
Cheers, muro

MSI P35 Platinum keeps crashing

Hello!
I have the following setup:
MSI P35 Platinum w/ 1.6 BIOS
INTEL E6750
CRUCIAL BALLISTIX 2x1GB DDR2 1066
MSI 512MB HD2600XT
PC Power and Cooling PSU 750W Single Rail
WD 80GB SATA HDD w/ OS
SEAGATE 320GB HDD for storage
Since i built this system ive been having several stability issues. Sometimes it will just completely freeze and video will go on standby. Lately whenever i play WOW or COD4 it will just crash the game, the machine is fine but it will quit the game. Ive tried MS memory test and also MEMTEST and both give me no error. Checked HDD for error and there fine. Latest GPU drivers off ATI website. Also when i run CPUZ latencies are wayyy higher than specs. And if i run my mem at 800 it will work fine. I know it may e some settings i have wrong, please help me.
Regards,
Leo Torres

Quote from: drinkydoob16
So ill just leave them at 800mhz.
Should i just change the FSB Ratio to lower the RAM to 800MHZ?
Leo,
Use the BIOS default settings.
Your DDR2 modules with 5-5-5-15 at 1.85-1.9V (the default DDR2 voltage on MSI mobos) are running at 800MHz.
And that's because they're DDR2-800 ...
Do not mess up the FSB. INTEL E6750 is a great processor.
You need stability, not troubles!
Quote from: JASen
i have the same problem, but with WINTEC AMPX 2GB (2 x 1GB) DDR2 1066 (PC2 8500) 5-5-5-15 v2.2
The same situation: you bought a pair of factory-overclocked DDR2-800 memory modules.
cheers

Msi P35 platinum: bios auto-raises NB & SB voltages when fsb over 316

Why does this happen when I'm overclocking FSB in bios and reaching over 316, NB voltage goes 1.250V->1.450V and SB I/O Power 1.5V->1.8V automatically. Both are in red text after this.
Of course, I can try to lower these settings back to normal but never tried.. I've just left these raised voltage settings because everything is running fine (now E2140@2816MHz,352FSB). But are these settings safe (NB 1,45V and SB I/O 1,8V) ??
I know that raising NB voltage is necessary when raising up FSB but SB I/O Power voltage?
Should I try lower these voltages and see if my computer is still stable?
I have bios v1.6, mobo msi p35 platinum rev1.1...
Please help me

this is probably due to overclock jumper's setting for FSB STRAP(200/266/333).
With my Neo 2 Fr (pretty similar) about the same happen to me but at 382...then I moved the jumper to the 333 setting (see manual) and no more change in voltage of NB and SB over 382.
If you do so, be careful on your setting before the change of position of the jumper as it automaticaly add 67 mhz to the FSB and so the system may not start because of too high cpu freq. Be careful also on memory multiplier (before the change set it to 1:1 or calculate the ram freq. (FSB+67 mhz and your memory multiplier)) as the system may not start because of the RAM.
However even if it not start after 2-3 reboot it start in safe mode(as after OC) and you can change the settings.
My advice:I think your cpu fsb by default is 200, if so and if you don't plan to go over 382 set the jumper to 266 (you should be ok with voltages until 382mhz of FSB.
Always remember what said over about the +67 mhz on FSB when you move the jumper!!!!

MSI P35 Platinum EEPROM

Hi, I need some information urgently. My friend owns the Asus M4A79 Deluxe motherboard. I'ts about 2 weeks old now, and he tried to mod his BIOS. It failed, because he didn't follow my precise instructions. Now, he has nothing more than a piece of paper, it's dead.
Is there anyone that can tell me where I can find the EEPROM of my MSI P35 Platinum motherboard? Where is the EEPROM located on the MS-7345 motherboard? I know it'll be an 8-pin IC, which is soldered to the board.
My idea is to do a hotflash, i want to desolder my BIOS chip & solder a IC holder to the board, then, use my mobo as an EEPROM Programmer. I don't want to disasemble my whole PC just to find out that the EEPROM is integrated in the chipset, so if possible, can anyone tell me wheter the MSI P35 Platinum has an EEPROM located on the board & where exactly can I find it?

Quote
I was wondering, isn't it possible to connect his BIOS chip to my motherboard's JSPI1 connector & program it from there?
I highly doubt that. But even if that was possible, how would you want to establish communication from (let's say) DOS to whatever you connect to the JSPI1 header?
Quote
but it's not 100% straight forward, I'll have to read up on this.
I am sure, you will figure it out.
Quote
Also, I'll build the LPT circuit as soon as I have time, but with which tool will I reprogram the chip with?
Oh, you will definately find it, once you do some reading (there are direct links to it in the articles I pointed you to). However, here is a link to the English Download Site of the Czech Programmer that made it:
http://www.volny.cz/rayer/programm/programe.htm
Scroll down until you see a tool called SPIPGM in the list.
When I used the an older version of the tool (after building the described SPI Cable) to reprogram the BIOS Chip of my P45 Platinum after a bad flash, the tool did not entirely support the chip yet (Macronix MX25L3205 in my case). However, it was able to detect it anyway (FlashROM JEDEC ID: EF3016h) and when it does not know its size it will simply prompt you to enter it.
An additional alternativ, which may actually be the fastest way to fix things, would be to simply order a new chip and have it programmed for you with a working BIOS Image. I don't know where you live and what places there are near you that offer this kind of service. Over here in Germany, I know at least one place that does this kind of stuff:
http://translate.google.com/translate?hl=en&sl=de&tl=en&u=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.bios-fix.de%2Fcatalog%2Fproduct_info.php%3FcPath%3D1_28%26products_id%3D139
Quote
I was considering to use an old ATi Graphics Card as an EEPROM Programmer, since it also has an 8-pin EEPROM with the exact same pinout. The hardware is not problem, I can quickly assemble it, but the software would be the problem, ATi's tools wont program an 8-megabit (1 megabyte) BIOS chip?
Another thing, the LAN ROM of the P35 Platinum, that can also be used?
No idea, never tried that nor have I ever thought about it.
Quote
1.) The 3.3V are connected to 3 pins (WP, Vcc & HLD)
Yep.
Quote
2.) There are 4 resistors, 150-ohm? or is it 150-kohm?
150 Ohm

MSI P35 Platinum Load Plate Cover

On my motherboard (an MSI P35 Platinum), the processor socket has a load plate to cover the CPU after it's put in place. You use the load lever to secure the load plate. But the load lever, on my mobo, requires what feels to me an excessive amount of force to secure the load plate in place. I don't want to damage the processor, so I'm inquiring here. Can anyone with experience tell me how much force is usually required? The CPU is lined up correctly...

It felt like a lot of pressure, just make sure your two notches are lined up and grunt like a man.

P35 Platinum Problems

Hello everyone.
I'm having a very similar problem to inucubuS'. The difference is that I've never overclocked my machine in any way, and it has been running stable for the past year or so with the same specs.
Around 3 months ago it started (very rarely) to hang on the "fake boot" with all fans running at max speed and not POSTing. The solution to each of those cases would be the CMOS clearing and loading of optimized values. After each episode it would run smoothly for many days until it happened again.
Then 3 days ago it started to hang on the fake boot for minutes, sometimes turning on and off for random periods of time, and clearing the CMOS would not solve it. During that time MoBo would show 4 red lights which made me wonder if it was a CPU issue. Strangely enough, each of these episodes were solved by simply letting it turn on/off by itself until it finally started to POST. Now I'm trying to leave my computer turned on at all times, only rebooting by OS.
I'm running Windows XP SP3, P35 platinum, E6750 at stock speeds and cooler, Corsair XMS Twin2X 2GB RAM (set at BIOS for Default speed), 500GB Western Digital HD, eVGA 8800GT @ factory clocks. System is running at mild temperatures, current BIOS version 1.9, Zalman ZM600 PSU.
I'd like any opinions on what I should do to try and fix this, should I try the same thing as incubusS even though I never OCed and am running everything at default/factory settings? I'm kinda scared to actually turn it off to try anything so I'd like to get any input beforehand
Thanks for reading all that and sorry for the long post.

Hey Jack, first of all thanks for the reply.
The modules are Corsair's TWIN2X2048-6400C4DHX, two 1GB sticks set in dual mode according to the P35's manual displacement. Their settings in BIOS are left as the default. I can't remember the voltage right now, but it was set as it was from optimal values, grayed out.
As for the message, it would appear during the first episodes (meaning the ones 3 months ago), saying "previous attempt to OC failed", but the ones I'm having now are actually booting without any BIOS tuning at all, although one of them happened after I reset CMOS from the MoBo switch, requiring another BIOS loading.
What baffles me is that even during the first problems I'd never tried to OC my machine in any way.
I hope any of that helps... I'm actually contemplating trying some BIOS tweaking since I won't have to turn the computer off completely, which is what frightens me.

Pls help! I cleared CMOS now I've lost RAID: P35 platinum

Hi all,
Last night I had a problem with my PC not reading a CD. I read on another forum that it may be a problem with my CD drive not being recognised and it recommended pressing the 'clear CMOS' button then rebooting the system.
However, I have now lost RAID. It boots fine on one drive but lists the other as simply another drive. I went back into the BIOS and re-activated RAID, but when I do this the operating system fails to boot and gives me an error message saying:
Windows could not start because the following file is missing or corrupt:
<windows root> system32\config\system
I have backed everything up while the machine is good, but would dearly not want to have to re-install everything again!
Is there any way I can recover it to the way it was before?
I did a search a found this thread, not entirely sure if it's the same problem:
https://forum-en.msi.com/index.php?topic=35930.0
Cheers,
Zap
Details of my system:
Mobo: MSI P35 Platinum 1333MHZ FSB, Processor: Intel Q6600 2.4GHZ, 4GB ram, HDD: 2 x 500GB Samsung in RAID (mirrored)
Operating System:XP SP3

Ok guys, here are the further details: (BTW triangle, it's RAID1).
In the BIOS here are some of the settings i've applied:
On chip ATA devices:
PCI IDE busmaster = Enabled
RAID mode = RAID
The boot sequence is set to:
1. CD ROM
2. One of the HDD's (2 are listed as being available)
3. Disabled
Now, it boots OK to the Intel Storage Manager page. If I press CTRL-I to open the configuration utility I get the following details:
RAID 1
ID = 0
Name = Volume 0
Status = Normal
Bootable = Yes
So if I exit, it goes to attempt to boot XP. However before I get any sign of life from XP I get this error message:
Windows could not start because the following file is missing or corrupt:
\WINDOWS\SYSTEM32\CONFIG\SYSTEM
You can attempt to repair this file by starting Windows setup using the original setup CD-ROM.
Select 'r' at the first screen to start repair.
Now if I set RAID mode = IDE in the BIOS the system will boot normally on one HDD. At the moment I can open explorer and see that the 2 HDDs are listed as Local Disc (C:) and Local Disc (E:)'.
I checked the SYSTEM32\CONFIG\SYSTEM on both the HDD's and found a difference in the file size between the two- I'm guessing because I'm currently using one disc and ignoring the other.
SYSTEM32\CONFIG\SYSTEM file sizes:
Local Disc (C:) = 40.9MB (41.1MB size on disc)
Local Disc (E:) = 40.6MB (40.8MB size on disc)
So I assume because the two files don't match XP treats them as being corrupt when in RAID 1 mode.
Can I simply copy the SYSTEM32\CONFIG\SYSTEM file from one disc to the other? What about the other items on the disc that don't match considering that other files have changed aside from this one?
Should I attempt to copy the entire C drive to the E drive....?????
Thanks again guys,
Cheers Zap.

P35 Platinum ... Initializing Floppy Drive Controller ?? (Wont Boot)

Hi all
I have built a new comp for someone who wants reliability so i choose to go Platinum, but ... i cant make it boot.
It wont even show ANYTHING on the screen (tried the vga in both Pci-e 16x just in case i was dumb enough lol) the boot "procces" stops with the Status leds showing:
4) Green
3) Green
2) RED
1) Green
According to the user guide it says:
Initializing Floppy Drive Controller.
This will initialize floppy drive and controller.
And i dont even have a floppy
Well as the problem persisted i removed EVERYTHING from the motherboard
now i left:
-Mother
-Processor
-Memory
-VGA
-PSU
And thats it. Let me tell you all the things i tried:
-Bios reset (with the little red button)
-Plug only necesary things
-Taking off the battery and replacing it (and went back to the "original")
-Tried different connectors just in case it was the PSU (i really dont think so)
-Tried different memory stick/s.
And well, thats all i think, half of this i did it with the mother in the case, and re-did all the list with the moter OUTSIDE the case. Can anybody help me ??
I guess is a BIOS problem, as i readed in another post (yeah used search first xD) but the only guy who could solve the problem was flashing the bios, but i cant even see a word on the screen, is it possible to flash the bios in my condition ??
The specs now:
Intel C2D E4500
MSI P35 PLATINUM
2x1Gb (or 1x1gb, tried single sticks as well) OCZ DDR2 667mhz (and tried also with generic "titan" memory at 800mhz, does not change anything)
Gigabyte 8400GS
POWERCOOLER PS-500 SS PSU
AFAIK i have more than enough to make this boot, but well ... you know
Thanks in advance, i tried to give all details possible, in 2 days ill go to RMA if i cant make it work, but i would like give it a try, who knows
EDIT: my english sucks really bad, forgive me !!
EDIT2: Forgot to add !! when i remove the VGA the motherboard DOES the "VGA ERROR BEEP" and the leds are in the correct combination for VGA ERROR ... so i guess processor works and ram too (both OCZ and generic), if one of these fails then it wont make any sound, m i wrong ??

ITS ALIVE !!!!!!!!!!!!!
Well, to be honest, i dont know what it really was but tried 2 things:
First i followed step by step and word by word the "clearing CMOS" guide (this mobo has a button and not a juper, so i pressed the button like 2 minutes to be REALLY sure xD), then i realized that it was not doing the "beeps" anymore, but the screen was black like before.
SOOOOOOOOOOOO THEEEEEEEEN ... (shoot me in the head for this) i unplugged the video and keyboard from the KVM switch (could THIS be the problem ?? i used it wit hundreds of computers and never gave me prblems before ??? ??? ???) and plugged the cables directly and now its alive !!!
THANKS !! :D :D :D :D :D
One last thing !!
Do you recommend me to upgrade the BIOS ?? the board always did a "false boot" then starts normally, i readed it was some "hardware checking" feature, its that true or its totally useless ??
THANKKKKKKKKKKKKKKSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSS SSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSS SSSSSSSSSS =) (im so damn happy now LOL)

P35 Platinum and NX8800GTS

I have both motherboard and graphic card from MSI (oh yeah ):
- Graphic card : NX8800GTS T2D640OE
- Motherboard : P35 Platinum (MS-7345 v1.x)
And I have question about power connectors on board of graphic card and motherboard. On motherboard there is power connector sweetly called JPWR1, described in manual as "JPWR1 12V power connector is used to provide power to the PCIEX16 graphics card".
But on graphic card is already power connector. I can plug in specific cable that divides in two normal power connectors to connect to power supply.
It is safe to plug in all three connectors to power supply? (one to JPWR1 on motherboard, two to graph card through this special cable)
It is even neccessary to plug in all connectors?

Quote
Quote from: madcio on 15-August-07, 04:14:18
CPU: Intel Core 2 Duo E6850 3.00 GHz LGA 775
RAM: 4x Kingston 1024 MB DDR2 (2x two in each package - Dual Channel)
Hard drive: Segate SATA-II 500 Gb
DVD Drive: DVD R/RW LG LightScribe
Maybe I will buy another hard drive in future, but nothing more.
I punched your component list into the eXtreme Power Supply Calculator v2.5. Only the Pro-Version (not free) shows the amperages on the different rails (+12V, +5V, +3,3V). The overall wattage if a PSU doesn't really really mean anything without the amperage values.
Anyways, I selected "High End Desktop Mainboard", "2 SATA drives" in the component list, added three 120mm fans, three USB devices and one additional PCI card. I also set CPU Utilization (TDP) to 100%.
The result is:
Quote
373W
+12V: 23A
+5V: 13.4A
3.3V: 9A
On the bottom the is footnote to the option called "Electrolytic capacitor aging" that says:
Quote
When used heavily or over an extended period of time (1+ years) a power supply will slowly lose some of its initial wattage capacity. We recommend you add 10-20% if you plan to keep your PSU for more than 1 year, or 20-30% for 24/7 usage and 1+ years.
When I enter 15% the calculation adds up to:
Quote
429W
+12V: 26.5A
+5V: 15.4A
3.3V: 10.4A
Finally, I overclocked your CPU to 4GHz / VCore 1.4V:
Quote
481W
+12V: 30.8A
+5V: 15.4A
3.3V: 10.4A
I don't know how accurate these calculations are. In any case, they should give you an idea of your systems power consumption. When I choose PSUs I always make sure I have a headroom of about 30% in the +12V-amperages. So if I was you I would get a PSU with about 36-40A maximum amperage on the +12V-Rail, depending if I plan to overclock the CPU or not.
Many users in this forum will recommend choosing a Single +12V-rail PSU. One of the reason is you won't have to worry about problems due to inbalanced power loads or wasted power resources.
If you plan to get a PSU with two +12V-rails, make sure that the maximum amperage on each rail is at least 18-20A. Maximum combined amperage on +12V should not be less than 36-40A.

P35 Platinum Is my Mobo an antique already after only four years? D.O.T. ?

Similar Messages

Maybe you are looking for