P67A-G45, LEDs lit when PC off?

When your PC is off but plugged in, are there any LEDs on the motherboard on?
If so, where are these located?
I followed the suggestions in this thread https://forum-en.msi.com/index.php?topic=154311.0 for trouble shooting, but I have had no reaction from my motherboard.
The system that I'm trying to bring to life:
intel i5-K2500 CPU
MSI P67A-G45 (B3) motherboard
Corsair Vengeance DDR3-1600 2x4GB memory
Cooler Master Hyper 212 cooler
Gigabyte Radeon 6870 1GB video
WD Caviar SE 120 GB 7200 rpm hard drive
Samsung SH-222AB DVD reader/writer
Cooler Master HAF912 case
Windows 7 Home Premium 64 bit
Antec BP550 Plus 550W ATX12V power supply 22A@12V and 25A@12V

No, the only LED's on your motherboard are the CPU Phase LED's and they should not come on without any power being provided to the board. The LED's are located at the top of your motherboard. This info is provided in your MSI motherboard manual.
I take it you are still unsure whether it's your power supply or your mobo that is defective? How about sharing what steps you have taken in the process of elimination so we may help you troubleshoot your problem. Did you follow any of the advice that was given to you and what were your findings?

Similar Messages

  • Battery LED Lit When Battery Is Not Plugged

    Usually when i pulled out battery while on AC, the LED wasn't lit, but today i pulled out power cord, shut down laptop and when took out battery and plugged back on AC, the battery LED was always lit - when shut down and when working. Pulling out power cord didn't help.

    i'm not sure but i don't think it's something else.
    by the way, checked bios version?
    also, try to remove the battery, un-plug the ac power, press power button for 30-40 seconds and check if it works.

  • IPhone 4 LED lite wont go off.

    I have an iPhone 4 I bought in late 2010 with current OIS 6.1.3.  AT & T contract has expired and is month-to-month  I am on family plan, which is still cheaper than a new AT & T plan.
    I tried soft reset, followed by Restore, followed by soft reset.  Still no success.
    Don't know if it got wet and simply needs drying or if camera is brokebn and needs to be replaced.  I am not a techie and don't have any techie tools, so I am afraid of damaging my iPhone 4 if I open it up and try to dry the battery.  I am also afraid I would damage it if it I tried to replace the back cameraa, so I would probably pay to have it done. I dont know how much that would cost or who to go to.
    Does it make maore sense to pay to have someone replace my camera or should I think about upgrading to iPhone 5?  The rest of my family has samei iPhone 4 as I have.  We like AT & T's ability to multi-task while talking, but have some issues with sound quality.\, so we would probablystaywithAt & T
    Any suggestions would be greatly appeciated.
    Thanks.

    The out of warranty repair fee for an iPhone 4 is $149.00 USD.  That is what apple will charge you to repair/replace your device.  If the water damage is extensive, they may decline to repair it (at which point you would not be charged). 
    If you should choose to use a 3rd party repair service, that will completely void your phones warranty (in other words, you would not be able to get apple to perform any work on the device, even if you were to offer to pay the out of warranty service fee. 
    There are some good deals right now where you could exchange your phone, enter into a contract, and get an iPhone 5 relatively cheap (2 year contract not withstanding). 
    The ultimate choice is yours, but I would suggest the out of warranty repair (if you can justify the expense) because there is no contract involved.  If that is not an option, then upgrade.
    Hope this helps.

  • Why does my mouse optical LED stay on (PS/2) when PC off

    I've got the MSI KT4 Ultra (Vanilla)... when I'm using my mouse thru the PS/2 connector and shutoff the PC, the LED stays on... also my router shows that the PC is still connected even tho my PC is off... the other PCs on the network don't have this problem... finally my keyboard NumLock light is on when PC off, which forced me to connect my old keyboard with no light indicators...
    so what I think the problem is, is the wake-on features... all have been disabled in the Bios but is there another setting in the Bios that can stop this small amount of electricity being used on these devices... I'm afraid my LEDs will eventually wear out...
    I could plug my input devices to USB, but I much rather prefer using PS/2 simply cuz the mouse software I use with the mouse works perfectly under these conditions and sets me up as a normal mouse when USB (I've got 5 buttons on the mouse)...
    is there another jumper onboard that can disable these features, or again a Bios setting? or does the newest Bios fix these issues (if u can call them issues)

    ok I may have found a solution but I'm not sure...
    Fri night I decided to switch Ethernet PCI cards... my net was slow and constantly losing connection with router during gaming sessions so I thought this may have fixed it (turned out to be a net issue)... as said previous I switched from my Aopen 325 (has WOL feature) to my old Sohoware Auto PCI (not sure but don't think WOL is on this card - don't have a manual since it came with my cable modem)...
    first let WinXP load default drivers... it loaded the chip drivers as macronix... now I think I distinctly remember shutting off to do some gut working... optical LED was still on (not sure)... did my work and switched PC on and loaded on the Sohoware drivers... PC was on overnight till Sat when I shut it off at night... not paying attention to the LED, I woke up Sun morning with the LED off... very odd since I didn't think putting on proper driver would fix it... woke up today with the same thing... I just shutdown to make sure it wasn't luck and again LED was off...
    originally my Aopen used the Realtek drivers as that is what XP detected... I've used the Aopen drivers with no luck... now it seems as tho it's fixed by simply using an Ethernet with no WOL feature... still I'm not sure if the Sohoware card does or does not support WOL...
    so I'm really out of hardware to test out... if anyone else can further put time into checking this and confirm if this is a WOL Ethernet + MSI KT4 (I've also heard other mobos can have same effect) problem...
    if things change I will post it here again but so far so good...
    [edit]
    sohoware has no mention of WOL feature for my card on their site... yet Aopen has confirmed that their card has WOL feature... I went to Macronix website and they don't have mention of WOL for their chip so I guess Sohoware card dont' support it either... again not sure if LED was off when I shutoff before gutting my PC...

  • MSI P67A-G45 (B3) issues

    Hey everyone I apologize in advance if this is long an rambling, but lack of sleep sucks  .
    Need a lil help before I get to drastic and decide to end my PC's life. Up till around 12:00 pm est yesterday my PC was working great, then my new Corsair H80i came in and I decided to do some very late spring cleaning(disassembled and dusted entire thing with canned air.), then cleaned off the old tg from the cpu re-seated and started installing the rest of the components. When it powered the problem occurred. It didn't come on an go off in a loop as I have read in other post, it came on an stayed on but the issue is I'm not seeing any indication of activity on the HDD (it is powered up) nor is there a video signal. It has the cpu power phase led's on the board and only one of those is coming on instead of all four. From reading the manual there wasn't much indication on what one light meant. Another quirk i noticed is that when it powered on my keyboard's led come on an quickly go back off an stay off till I turned the pc off an then back on.  I did try the following:
    Removed an powered on using one stick of mem, then tried with no mem installed. Still one cpu phase light both times.
    Powered on with out HDD, still one light.
    Removed all components including mobo from  case and checked stand-off mounts..looks fine.
    Performed a CMOS reset, still one light.
    Pulled the vid card, again the same.
    At this point I'm running out of patience. I know I probably haven't tried everything, but I'm at a loss for what to do next. I just wish there was better clarification on those cpu power phase led's in the manual. As i said before it only lights up one and that's it and there is nothing I can find that explains what that means, if it means anything and don't forget there is no vid signal so I have no clue to what if anything is going on during POST.
    System specs:
    MSI P67A-G45 (B3)
    G.SKILL Ripjaws Series 8GB (2 x 4GB) 240-Pin DDR3 1333
    EVGA 01G-P3-1556-KR GeForce GTX 550 Ti (Fermi) FPB
    CORSAIR HX Series HX750 750W ATX12V 2.3 / EPS12V
    Intel Core i5-2500K Sandy Bridge
    Corsair H80i  cpu cooler

    Quote from: Bernhard on 12-July-14, 19:27:02
    Do you now have the MB out of the case? i.e. did you test it outside the case placing it on a non conducting surface?
    Did you ensure all your power cables are properly plugged back in. i.e. the 24pin and also the CPU power plug.
    You mounted a new cooler, did you ensure that you didn't put undue pressure on the CPU thereby bending some CPU socket pins?
    Did you recheck the RAM slots for any lodged foreign matter?
    Did you check your power cables feeding the HDD?
    Can you test with another PSU?
    Did you do CMOS clear with battery removed?
    I did not try it out of the case. I will definitely give that a shot.
    I double checked all my power cables
    The cooler used thumb screws and I just hand tightened them. I will check again to see if anything happened to the pins, couldn't hurt.
    I didn't notice anything in the RAM slots but again I should double check.
    The power cable feeding to the HDD are seated snugly and I did pull an re-seat to make sure.
    I sure wish i had a spare PSU. Guess i learned my lesson to have a back-up on hand just in case.
    I did not clear the CMOS with the battery out, instead I used the button that was located on the back panel.
    I appreciate the recommendations and will try out the ones that i can do. As far as the PSU I'll have to make some calls but that sounds like a good idea to try. It may be awhile till I can try anything, but as soon as I do and see any results I will let you know. Thank you for the feedback.

  • MSI P67A-G45 (B3) boot/loop

    Hi, just got all components for my pc and i installed everything. My problem is wheni press the power switch, everything starts fine and the fans spin up and the LED's on the board are fine but after 4-5sec it shuts itself off and tries the exact same process again. To troubleshoot i removed RAM, Video card, HD... just have CPU, cpu fan but still getting same issue..
    Here is the list of the components i have..
    Intel Core i5 2500K Quad Core Unlocked Processor LGA1155 3.3GHZ Sandy Bridge 6MB
    MSI P67A-G45 (B3) P67 ATX LGA1155 DDR3 2PCI-E16 3PCI-E 2PCI SLI CrossFireX SATA3 USB3 Motherboard
    G.SKILL Ripjaws X F3-12800CL9D-8GBXL 8GB 2X4GB DDR3-1600 CL9-9-9-24 Memory
    Corsair Professional HX650W 650W ATX 12V 52A 24PIN ATX Modular Power Supply Active PFC 120MM Fan
    Sapphire Radeon Xtreme HD 5830 800MHZ 1GB 4GHZ GDDR5 PCI-E DVI HDMI Mini DisplayPort Video Card
    here is a video i found... its similar to my problem

    Straight power loop? Can't even get to BIOS?  if so could try resetting the CMOS, also try a different DIMM and/or GPU (even keyboard, had a couple post where the power loop ceased after unplugging the keyboard) and possibly best try a different higher powered PSU...if you can get into BIOS raising the vCore can help eliminate the loop problem, but still indicates something is wrong if it takes to much vCore for successful boot, with a 2500k should be able to boot and run stock at 1.19-1.21 for 3.3GHz

  • LED Indicator When Charging

    When I first got my device the LED flashed on and off (green and red I think) indicating charging in progress. Then a few days ago this has ceased happening when I charge the device, no LED flashes nor then stays lit when fully charged!! Any thoughts??

    dacarter wrote:
    My daughter's 360 is doing the same thing. Was there any solution to this issue? I'm thinking there's a problem with the micro USB port.
    This may suggest a hardware problem and I do advise sending the device to a Nokia Care Centre.
    To locate a Care Point near you, please use the locator which can be navigated from this page http://www.nokia.com/global/support
    Good luck

  • What to do with bricked motherboard? MSI P67A-G45 AFTER FLASHING LAST BIOS

    I flashed MSI P67A-G45 by the last BIOS for IB CPU. The flashing goes twice with intermediate reset. Before I flashed P67A-C43 by the same version from MSI, and all was Ok.
    I flashed new BIOS from version 1I under DOS mode. There was a problem with pen drive and I used hard disk without USB pen drive. That was my error. The exe file started and flashed BIOS  normally and then after reset started flashing Intel ME firmware. I thought all is going ok and the image is taken from HDD. But after the process finished and motherboard reset, it didn't start at all. The fan starts and stops, LED blinks and motherboard behaves the same way even without CPU. What can I do? Is there any way, suppose, using a EEPROM writer? I have one and I can take the BIOS chip off and flash by old version of BIOS. What can You advise? Maybe the second flash process writes another chip - can You tell me about it. Please advise how to manage this problem.
    I received no help from support. I'm not a novice - I work in repair center and have soldering station etc. Can You explain me anything about second flashing process? I need only information and I will be able to manage th :lol_anim:is problem.

    Quote from: ring1956 on 31-July-12, 04:01:53
    I flashed MSI P67A-G45 by the last BIOS for IB CPU. The flashing goes twice with intermediate reset. Before I flashed P67A-C43 by the same version from MSI, and all was Ok.
    I flashed new BIOS from version 1I under DOS mode.
    Why did you flash the C43 BIOS on the G45 mainboard?
    http://www.msi.com/product/mb/P67A-C43.html#/?div=BIOS
    http://www.msi.com/product/mb/P67A-G45--B3-.html#/?div=BIOS

  • MOVED: P67A-G45 Windows 8 Overclock Speedstep Issues

    This topic has been moved to Overclocking, Undervolting.
    https://forum-en.msi.com/index.php?topic=162736.0

    Quote from: celltech on 24-October-12, 21:13:49
    So my bad...there is an Intel Turbo Mode setting under the OC tab.  It was enabled and I tried to disable it.  No change...
    So then I started turning off C1E and C-State stuff.  That only made it worse.  According to CPU-Z the CPU was getting full voltage all the time.  At least with C1E/C-States enabled the voltages will back off with no load on the CPU.
    The Win 8 Task Manager is very strange.  It is showing the frequency bouncing around 3.3-4.2 while CPU-Z shows it hard locked at 4.2  I am not sure what the Task Manager is using for its calculations.  But even the Task Manager hard locked at 4.2 with everything disabled.
    I have the same board (P67A-G45) and I am having the same problem.  When I set the multiplier in the BIOS, the CPU will bounce between 3.3GHz and whatever I set the multiplier to.  I am running the V1.18 BIOS.  With Windows 7, I could set the multiplier to whatever I wanted, enable C-States, and the CPU would throttle down to 16x without any issue or any interaction from me.
    You can use ThrottleStop to check the multiplier more accurately then CPU-Z.  Also in ThrottleStop, you can click "Set Multiplier" -> "Power Saver" -> "Turn On" and the CPU will run like a champ at 16x multiplier, so its definitely possible.  This 16x get reported in CPU-Z and in the Windows Task Manager as well.  Once you disable Power Saver, its back to 33x + multiplier land.
    I hope a solution to this will be found, seems really silly to install a new OS and have CPU multiplier issues...

  • P67A-G45 (B3): 5 beeps, what do they mean?

    So I'm a first time builder, and I recently assembled a desktop with the following parts:
    Intel i5 2500K 3.3GHz CPU
    MSI P67A-G45 (B3) ATX Intel Motherboard
    Team Elite 8GB (2 x 4GB) 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM 1333
    EVGA GeForce GTX 460 (Fermi) 01G-P3-1370-TR Video Card
    SAMSUNG Spinpoint F3 1TB 3.5" SATA 3.0Gb/s Internal Hard Drive
    XFX Core Edition PRO550W (P1-550S-XXB9) 550W Power Supply
    I got it up and running and it worked great up until I decided to do a performance test with City of Heroes. My PC handled the game beautifully for about an hour before it abruptly shut down. To my horror, pressing the power button only caused the fans and LEDs to lurch and flicker for a split second before immediately shutting down. I started removing components and attempted a boot with just the motherboard, CPU and one RAM stick connected. This time it actually powered on for more than half second, so I shut it down to repeat the process while reconnecting components one at a time.
    It seems that the video card is dead; when I connect it and attempt to boot I get the same flicker/lurch as when it failed the other night. When I attempt to boot without the video card my PC successfully powers on and initiates a POST, yielding the standard 2 rapid beeps followed by one of a higher pitch, after which it sounds an ominous 5 beeps. You can hear it in this video (not mine, but sound is almost the same)
    Now, my question is: what do these beeps mean? Consulting the manual and google turned up no useful information, but the circumstances seem to suggest that they mean my video card is bad/missing. I'm hoping this is the case as I want to make sure the video card is the only thing I need to replace. Any help would be appreciated.

    Stu has some information & links on this in his thread; https://forum-en.msi.com/index.php?topic=129806.0

  • P67A-G45 Windows 8 Overclock Speedstep Issues

    I just upgraded my setup from Windows 7 to 8.  I have my i5-2500K overclocked to 4.2GHz.  In Win 7 I could see Speedstep/EIST working fine and it would throttle down to 1.6GHz when things were not busy.
    Now with Win 8 it stays at 4.2 no matter what.  The multiplier never seems to drop down.  If I set it back to the normal 33 things are fine.  If I start it at 33 and then use MSI Control Center to raise the multi it works fine.  But if I boot it with the CPU already at 42 it just stays at max speed.
    I am at all the latest BIOS and software versions.
    Any ideas???

    Quote from: celltech on 24-October-12, 21:13:49
    So my bad...there is an Intel Turbo Mode setting under the OC tab.  It was enabled and I tried to disable it.  No change...
    So then I started turning off C1E and C-State stuff.  That only made it worse.  According to CPU-Z the CPU was getting full voltage all the time.  At least with C1E/C-States enabled the voltages will back off with no load on the CPU.
    The Win 8 Task Manager is very strange.  It is showing the frequency bouncing around 3.3-4.2 while CPU-Z shows it hard locked at 4.2  I am not sure what the Task Manager is using for its calculations.  But even the Task Manager hard locked at 4.2 with everything disabled.
    I have the same board (P67A-G45) and I am having the same problem.  When I set the multiplier in the BIOS, the CPU will bounce between 3.3GHz and whatever I set the multiplier to.  I am running the V1.18 BIOS.  With Windows 7, I could set the multiplier to whatever I wanted, enable C-States, and the CPU would throttle down to 16x without any issue or any interaction from me.
    You can use ThrottleStop to check the multiplier more accurately then CPU-Z.  Also in ThrottleStop, you can click "Set Multiplier" -> "Power Saver" -> "Turn On" and the CPU will run like a champ at 16x multiplier, so its definitely possible.  This 16x get reported in CPU-Z and in the Windows Task Manager as well.  Once you disable Power Saver, its back to 33x + multiplier land.
    I hope a solution to this will be found, seems really silly to install a new OS and have CPU multiplier issues...

  • MSI P67A-G45 Issue: Computer boots seconds after Shutdown or Sleep mode

    Current Build:
    MSI P67A-G45 (B3) LGA 1155 Intel P67 SATA 6Gb/s USB 3.0 ATX Intel Motherboard
    Intel Core i5-2500K Sandy Bridge 3.3GHz (3.7GHz Turbo Boost) LGA 1155 95W Quad-Core Desktop Processor Intel HD Graphics 3000 BX80623I52500K
    XFX HD-677X-ZNFC Radeon HD 6770 1GB 128-bit GDDR5 PCI Express 2.1 x16 HDCP Ready CrossFireX Support Video Card
    G.SKILL Ripjaws X Series 8GB (2 x 4GB) 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM DDR3 1866 (PC3 14900) Desktop Memory Model F3-14900CL9D-8GBXL
    Thermaltake TR2 RX 750W Bronze W0382RU ATX 12V v2.3 / EPS 12V v2.91 SLI Ready CrossFire Ready 80 PLUS BRONZE Certified Modular Active PFC Power Supply
    Seagate Barracuda ST500DM002 500GB 7200 RPM 16MB Cache SATA 6.0Gb/s 3.5" Internal Hard Drive
    Running Windows 7 64 bit Professional
    Problem: Within days of building computer in January the computer started to automatically reboot seconds after shutdown or entering sleep mode.  
    Attempted Fixes:  
    -Total re-install of Windows + BIOS
    -Updated BIOS via LiveUpdate
    -Rolled back to initial BIOS that came with MB
    -Changed between registry option of "PowerdownAfterShutdown" between "0" and "1"
    -Disabled Wake-Up Events in BIOS
    -Changed to OS controlled Wake-Up events
    -Changed "Restore after AC Power Loss" to off in BIOS
    -Ordered a new PSU, replaced PSU
    Regardless the fix, if I try to shutdown - the computer reboots within a few seconds.  If I try to put it in sleep mode, it boots right back up.  The only way to get the computer to shut off is by manually turning off the PSU.
    I've seen that there have been frequent power-cycle issues with this particular motherboard in comments on newegg.com, just wondering if this issue has been encountered and if there is a fix available?

    Quote from: Bernhard on 17-February-12, 00:10:35
    Is this with no case wire connections to any of the headers? i.e. if you start it by shorting the on/off pin headers with a screwdriver tip.
    Yeah, as shown here.
    http://www.computer-how-to-guide.com/motherboard-troubleshooting/motherboard-post-test-how-to/
    Shorted on with flathead, boots up fine.  After flipping off the PSU to turn it off and then flipping the PSU back on, the dang thing waits a few seconds and boots right back up.  No short required.  At this point I think a ghost might be living in my computer.

  • Unable to update P67A-G45

    Hello all,
    I have been running my P67A-G45 (B3) based system for over a year now with no issues. Every few months I check MSI's site for BIOS updates and have been flashing via the HP Flashdrive utility.   Ive used this method several times with no errors. 
    Im currently running BIOS 1.12 dated 7-22-2011 and I want to update to version 1.I
    When I run the flash (booting into DOS via flash drive) I get the following error:
    "ROM file ROMID is not compatible with existing BIOS ROMID"
    Is there something im doing wrong? or is the MSI website linking to the wrong BIOS?

    Quote from: resident56 on 23-June-12, 05:17:33
    I have been running my P67A-G45 (B3) based system for over a year now with no issues. [Every few months I check MSI's site for BIOS updates and have been flashing via the HP Flashdrive utility.
    Quote from: resident56 on 23-June-12, 05:17:33
    Im currently running BIOS 1.12 dated 7-22-2011 and I want to update to version 1.I
    This is weird. If you mentioned that you update your BIOS every few months, your last BIOS version should be version 1.H dated 13-01-2012.
    For the board, P67A-G45 (B3), there was never an official BIOS of 1.12 dated 7-22-2011, the only two BIOS versions that were available between April to October were version 1.B dated 14-04-2011, and version 1.D dated 04-10-2011.
    Check this link for all P67-G45 (B3) BIOS and release dates > http://www.msi.com/product/mb/P67A-G45--B3-.html#/?div=BIOS
    I suggest you double check your board details again.

  • P67a-g45 two POST tests?

    I have a p67a-g45 board
    core i5 2500
    16gb kingston ram (off the qvl)
    geforce 9800
    wd 500gb hdd
    lg blu ray drive
    Ok ive built many computers in the past, but this is the first one ive had that either runs two post or is experiencing an issue.  It starts on boot and about 10 seconds later it gives two rapid beeps, and about 3 seconds later a normal POST beep.  Its currently running an initialized ubuntu server, and it seems fine, but i have nnot had a chance to do any sort of setup or config yet.  I just didnt know with the new click bios if this was normal, or is something causing it an error which it is recovering from?

    its a single boot system, and the bios says theres 2 usb hubs and 1 mouse, but it still gives 2 beeps even if theres an additional usb cd/dvd drive plugged in as well.  Ive gone with msi for every graphics card ive ever purchased, but this is my first mobo with them.  Ive never had anything like this occur with the asus or gigabyte boards ive used.

  • MSI P67A-G45 (B3) Two DIM slots problem.

    Hi, I just bought all my parts for my new computer. Everything is working fine, except that I have some problem with two of my DIM slots. When I insert my RAM into the slots on the right side (near CD-ROM) the PC reboots each 3 second. Do you know what may cause the problem? Is it the slot problem or something with the BIOS settings?
    CPU: Intel i5 2500k 3.30 GHz
    Mobo: MSI P67A-G45 (B3)
    RAM: Corsair 2x2Gb 1333Mhz
    PSU: XFX Pro 650W
    GPU: ATI Radeon HD 6950
    Kind Regards.

    Quote
    But I can normally boot into the Windows, if it would be the CPU problem then I guess the pc wont boot. I will check it just to make sure and I will post the result.
    It has been seen here on the forum a number of times that the system will run with bent or broken CPU socket pins. As suggested, if not done so yet, remove the CPU & inspect the CPU socket for bent pins.

Maybe you are looking for