P67A-GD80 Temperature sensors

Hi,
Where are the temperature sensors located in the mb (P67A-GD80)?, in particular the "Local" in this speedfan screenshot:
The name and the chip by themselves dont say much :(.

You might also want to use MSI Control Center for reading the temperatures.
http://www.msi.com/product/mb/P67A-GD80--B3-.html#/?div=Utility&os=Win7%2064
This utility is written and tested for the sensors on the mianboard.
If you are lucky one of the temperatures displayed in Control Center may correspond to the temperature you are looking for in Speedfan but that is not guaranteed.
There might be some offset to consider.

Similar Messages

P67A-GD80 uEFI 'BIOS' temperatures reading...

Hello,
Few weeks ago I finished my PC build, this time I took my time and planned everything to the last screw and nut. My specification is: Sandy Bridge i7 2600K on P67A-GD80, N580GTX Lightning XE and so on (full specs here http://cauldron.net.tvtrinec.cz/PC_prices.txt , do not mind irrelevant items there, this list was in the first place made for me to track the progress, spendings and my budged to the last penny). It went outstandingly well, but there is one thing, that still bounces in my head. Prior to Windows installation, I was fiddling a little bit in the motherboards uEFI BIOS, and noticed significant overheating according to the BIOS readings. With everything set, good aftermarket cooler - Cooler Master V6GT nicely sitting on top of the brilliant piece of 32nm technology - i7 2600K and "sticked" with one of the best thermal compound in the world - Shin-Etsu X23-7783D.
EDIT: Aaah, sorry, I sent it accidentally before completing it... continued
So with this setting, my readings in the BIOS (I flashed the latest BIOS version 10.4) were over 50°C on the CPU, I thought that it was really high, so maybe I did not apply thermal paste properly (Shin-Etsu is known for being really thick and dense), unmounted heatsink, cleaned everything with ArctiClean 1/2 and applied again, this time really perfectly thin layer. This knocked temperatures about 5-8°C down (with 40°C on start building up over time to about 48°C), but still quite high for idling Sandy Bridge on stock clocks and voltages with this setting :| . I was sad, so I ordered many different high performance thermal compounds (as you can see in a link of the specification list above) and solutions, and prepared myself for looong testing session.
Meanwhile I just installed OS Windows 7 Ultimate, and started playing with settings and installing drivers and so. Then I noticed, it was in MSI Control Center, that core temperatures are not that bad (ranging from 26 to 33°C on all cores idle), and the CPU temperature reading in Green Power card there (Control Center) is even 23°C! I started reading and googling, and people often said that BIOS temperatures are somehow faulty, that CPU in BIOS is not really idling and so...
I downloaded some other third party utilities and software (CPUID HWMonitor, SpeedFan, Real Temp...) and temperatures there were similar with MSI Control Center, around 30°C on all cores idle. I just do not know how many sensors there are on the motherboard, and which software I can trust. Temperatures are similar but not exactly the same, and redings from BIOS are completely off.
If you have anything to this topic, share it with me please.
Jan

Well yeah, that's what people say everywhere, that BIOS puts some load on CPU. But now, in Windows, what software should I trust in showing real temperatures? Or what are people using most? In what software for example you are checking temperatures? And what are "normal" values for each core, motherboard or CPU as a whole?
And one related query, what about those power saving settings in BIOS? Can they change CPU temperature by that many °C? I mean items like EuP 2013, CPU Phase Control, C1E and Intel C-States, EIST or Power Technology. I know that I will probably need to disable them, since I am going to overclock that Sandy Bridge, but I will appreciate some more info on those. Again, I was googling, found some inconsistent info and opinions about "green power" settings and OC, but the more info from more sources, the better... Thank you

[P67A-GD80] Optimizing with i7 2600K

Hi,
Last friday I got the following to replacing my old C2D 3Ghz (running at 3.6Ghz) on a Asus P5QL Pro with Corsair Dominator 4x2GB DDR2:
MSI P67A-GD80
Corsair Vengeance DDR3-1600 C8 2x4GB
Intel i7 2600K
Scythe Mugen 2
The rest of my current system:
Asus HD6950 2GB DirectCU II
Intel 80GB SSD X25-M
2 x 1,5TB Seagate 7200RPM
1 x ancient 500GB for Temp Storage
Some DVD burner - Its a black one
Antec P183 with Antec CP-850 PSU
Obviously the CPU is much faster than my old C2D, but generally speaking I think the system is too slow.
When I run Passmark performance tests, ASS Crystal Disk SSD Benchmark and SiSoft 2010, all scores are lower than I would expect and compared to online results always one of the lowest.
For instance, in CPU Mark a Core i7 980 @ 3.7Ghz scores 44% higher than me, a Core i7 920 @ 3.4Ghz is only 15% lower than me.
In Memory Mark, the 920 scores 52% higher, the 980 10%.
The SSD scores slightly lower in this system than it did on my old board, but only marginal.
Copying large folders between disks feels slower than it did before, while copying a single large file is definitely faster - nearly 100MB/s. Harddisk benchmarks show good results.
I've cleared the CMOS of this system, I left everything default except AHCI and boot order. I've completely wiped the SSD and reinstalled Windows 7 x64 (same as on the C2D).
The system is stable, I've ran several passes of Memtest86+ 4.2 and I've ran Prime95 x64 for a few hours. Temperatures stay at or below 65 degrees with all fans <1000RPM.
I can see no obvious flaws in BIOS settings. I've installed all the latest drivers, INF updates, Intel Storage Matrix etc. According to CPUID and CoreTemp the system is running at 100x34 and memory is at 665. The memory timings are slightly lower than what SPD is showing for 665Mhz, but that wouldn't make a noticable difference, if it makes a difference at all.
Overall I'm happy with the system, I value stability over speed any day and overclocking is not my game anyways. Once a system is stable and running flawless in every respect, I may overclock some but under no circumstance should it cause crashes, weird behaviour etc. My old system had a 20% overclock and it ran flawless - except that is was just too slow and CPU was becoming a noticable bottleneck.
Is there anything I can do/check, any tips to see if I'm missing anything?
Thanks in advance!

Only Comodo Antivirus, which I've been using for a long time and never had an issue with. I will try disabling it though, it's easy to take things for granted that you have been using for a long time, it's best to rule it out at this point.
Last night I was copying a 22GB folder from one drive to another, the only process taking resources was system but my pc became unusable. When I tried to start even a simple program it took nearly 30 seconds for the window to appear. Clicking the menu took another 10 seconds to respond.
In the mean time the copy job dropped to ~30MB/s and I noticed disk queue length to rise above 10, but only on the drive being copied to. The disk I was reading from remained responsive with a disk queue length <0.
Another thing I noticed with Passmark is the Small Block Allocation test was extremely slow compared to other similar systems. The rest of the memory tests are slower too but not as extreme as that test. I've found some similar issues but never with a solution. I was able to get it a bit better by setting the memory timings from default (auto) to the manufacturers' specified settings and I set the command rate from T2 to T1. A quick test didn't show any problems but I have yet to do a few hour test to make sure its stable.
Anyways, I'll let you know if the disabling of Comodo solves anything. In the meantime, if anyone has any bright ideas I'd appreciate it.
Thanks.

Dual BIOS LED disco, P67A-GD80 (B3)

I've just set up a new system, exercising extreme caution, reading manuals, checking forums, and taking all measures not to mess things up.
When I finally buckled up and hit the start button, things seemed fine, the fans were running and I was greeted by the BIOS setup interface. A couple of minutes after browsing the menues, checking temperature and stuff, but without actually making any changes, screen froze and the system ceased to respond to mouse or keyboard input, even ignoring my desperate efforts to restart or turn off the machine using the front panel buttons.
After turning off, using the PSU-switch, I found that at least it did NOT smell burnt, so I gave it another try. This time the fans started again and the GPU-fan sounded considerably louder than before, actually noisier than the average vacuum cleaner, but nothing showed up on screen at all. Just darkness and the terrible howling from the GPU. Again, the front panel switches wouldn't kill it, so I started to think about what could have gone wrong. After thinking for a minute or two the system just died by itself.
I couldn't restart it immediately, but after a few minutes I could turn it on. Still nothing on the screen though.
I've reassembled the machine, checking cables and stuff, trying different RAM setups, cleared CMOS, removed and reinserted CMOS battery, but still just get one beep and eternal darkness on the screen. The motherboard buttons for on/off and reset won't turn off/restart the system. I notice two solid lights on the CPU Phase LEDs, telling me that "CPU is in 2 phase power mood", but I really don't know what that means.
Also, the Dual BIOS LED goes disco on startup, altering between fast blinking and slow (1 sec) blinking to finally end up with a solid light, telling me the primary and secondary BIOS failed.
Have also tried to start the motherboard with everything disconnected except PSU and a RAM-card, even without GPU, just to see if the moderboard's on/off and reset buttons responds after being turned on, but everything except the fans and leds seem dead.
Anyone got any idea of what's causing these problems, or what I should do to get wiser or even make things work?
Is the CPU just dead? Motherboard short circuit? Some kind of BIOS-black out?
Is the non-responsive (well, it responds to on, but not off) on/off and reset buttons on the motherboard a sign of something?
This is my brand new, not-working-at-all system:
Corsair Graphite 600T Midi Tower
Corsair TX V2 850W PSU
MSI P67A-GD80 B3, Socket-1155
Intel® Core™ i7-2600K
Antec Kuhler H2O 920
Kingston DDR3 HyperX 1600MHz 16GB
Sapphire Radeon HD 6970 2GB GDDR5 (x2, have tried with just 1)
Corsair SSD Force Series™ 3, 240GB
Sony Optiarc DVD±RW Writer, AD-5280S

Yeah, I tried that, but I'm not 100% sure I properly cleared CMOS. Did change the pin from save to clear data and removed battery, but the battery might have been removed too short time (20 sec). Also, the power cable to the mother board was still connected (the PSU was shitched off though) which I later read it shouldn't be while clearing CMOS.
Still, the Dual BIOS LED goes solid, so I guess the mother board is bricked.
I'm really not sure what to do now. Let's say I buy a new mother board and it works outside the chassi, it could mean that the old mother board was defect from start, or
it can mean that the chassi is defect. To be sure I have to try the new mother board in the chassi, and possibly destroy it. Feels like this trial and error method is going to cost me a few mother boards.
I do hear the single beep when I start the computer, so it POSTs I guess. Does that mean the CPU is NOT broken? I've heard that the CPU is needed for the POST.

Faulty Temperature Sensor?

Recently, I was given an old Mac g4 15" Powerbook that the owner no longer wanted. This is the first Mac I have owned as well as the first laptop. It worked fine for me for several weeks, and I got a new battery and upgraded the RAM. Then it started putting itself to sleep seemingly randomly, while I was in the middle of using it. It's fine for a little while upon turning on, and then may start to do this every minute. I changed the battery and memory back to the original pieces, the problem persists. The last time, it would not wake up at all. I finally took out the battery and power cord and held down the power button and restarted it.
Looking around online, I have found other people experienced this 'narcoleptic computer' issue with g4s, but no clear solution. The consensus seems to be a faulty trackpad temperature sensor sends the computer into sleep. I checked my system.log and found emergency overtemp warnings at the times it was sent to sleep. I downloaded Temperature Monitor and found that the trackpad temp would spike way up and down while the other temperatures remained consistent. Sometimes there is no temperature reported for the trackpad at all, at times it behaves normally until the computer is jostled, leading me to believe it might be an issue with something come loose.
Is this something that has been resolved? I saw a couple suggestions to open it up an remove the trackpad temperature sensor entirely, does anyone know if that fixes the problem in the long term? I have also tried resetting the pram and the pmu, setting the power saver preferences to never put it to sleep, trashing my power saver preference files, disabling bluetooth, and running the computer off the power cord only with no battery. Next I will try opening the whole thing up and tightening everything I can see to tighten.
I know it's getting up there in years, but the computer worked fine for what I wanted until this started. I would be very grateful for any advice on how to deal with this issue.

Hello Kate,
The track-pad heat sensor is +*one of the causes*+ of narcoleptic powerbooks, but from my experience it is more usually related to a faulty keyboard. Sticky or bent keys, dirt, soda, faulty light sensor are more likely the cause. It is highly unlikely anything has become lose inside the machine as all factory fitted screws are sealed with a lock-tight adhesive or equivalent. Try turning off the illuminated keyboard (F8) and see if it persists. Opening the machine is not a bad idea although, you will find very little in the way of visual determiners. Open it up and give it a good clean out. A small soft paint brush and a can of compressed air will do the job. Just be careful to blow the garbage out and not deeper into the machine.
A suggestion to pin-pointing the problem: Can you hook it up to an external display, keyboard and mouse? If so, start the computer, close the lid and wake it with the external mouse. See if the problem persists. If it does, at least you know the track pad sensor is fine and it must be related to the keyboard or a general overheating issue, which may be something as simple as a faulty stick of RAM.

Help with Omega Infrared Temperature Sensor with USB Interface Model(s): IR-USB

Hi,
I am a beginner when it comes to labview and was wondering if the IR-USB sensor by Omega was compatible with LabVIEW and whether anyone has worked with them before in lv. I also want to find out whether the vi for this sensor is easily available. I am not too sure about which infrared temperature sensor will work best with lv.
Thanks

Hi,
It appears it isn't compatible straight away. It is designed to talk to the software provided by Omega and they don't appear to provide drivers for development in other programming languages.
Having said that it theoretically could be. It appears that although the connector is USB the device actually mimics a serial port which we can easily interact with from LabVIEW. To do this though we would need to know the commands to send and the format of the data received. This would usually be obtained from the manufacturer.
My suggestion would be to contact Omega and see if they can offer a LabVIEW driver or a programmers manual with the commands for the device. If not they may be able to recommend something that would be compatible.
Regards,
James Mc
========
CLA and cRIO Fanatic
wiresmithtech.com/blog

Lenovo G550 GPU temperature sensor

Hi everyone,
I have lenovo G550 laptop and there is a problem with GPU (NVIDIA GeForce G210M) temperature sensor. So, when i turn on laptop the sensor is showing 'bout 70°C and when i run some programs like Chrome, paint etc. the temperature jumps over 95 °C. But the problem is that laptop is COLD , temperature is OK. The air from fan is COLD, not warm.
I have opened it and cleaned it from dust, it's clean like in pharmacy store. When temperature reach 100°C the laptop turns off automatically but it is still cold :/.
. I updated BIOS and it's even worse :/ sensor on start show 90°C and then raising :/. I also tried serval diferent versions of NVIDIA drivers.
So, maybe it's hardware problem with sensor, and i'm wondering is there anyway to deal with it? Or how can i set the the max value of temperature where laptop shut down automaticallly (there is no such option in BIOS) ?
Thank you.
Solved!
Go to Solution.

I solved it,
the problem was in thermal paste and some protective nylon over GPU. The nylon was detached on some parts and I removed it at all. Then noticed that there is a litle bit of thermal paste on one of the components on GPU. I cleared it, and temperature is 50°C. The thermal paste probably covered temperature sensor and cause a false reading of sensor.
Thany you for reading

LM92 I2C temperature sensor with NI-8451

Hello !
I try to communicate with a LM92 temperature sensor via the NI USB-8451 by I²C protocol. I have an issue with the addressing because the 7 bits sensor address is 1001011 (A1 and A0 set to 1) but the LM92 is working in little endian (LSB first) and Labview adds the R/W bit at the end of the address so the complete frame sent to the LM92 is 1001011R/W.
I'm trying to find a solution to invert the complete frame before seending it in order to communicate with the LM92.
Labview returns the error -301742 because the address is not the wright one and i can't find how to send the adress in little endian.
I just need to read the temperature register of the sensor so i don't need to write anything in it.
Does anyone have an answer ?
Solved!
Go to Solution.
Attachments:
LM92CIM.pdf ‏773 KB
Temperature read.vi ‏17 KB

Sanguigui wrote:
Hello !
I try to communicate with a LM92 temperature sensor via the NI USB-8451 by I²C protocol. I have an issue with the addressing because the 7 bits sensor address is 1001011 (A1 and A0 set to 1) but the LM92 is working in little endian (LSB first) and Labview adds the R/W bit at the end of the address so the complete frame sent to the LM92 is 1001011R/W.
I'm trying to find a solution to invert the complete frame before seending it in order to communicate with the LM92.
Labview returns the error -301742 because the address is not the wright one and i can't find how to send the adress in little endian.
I just need to read the temperature register of the sensor so i don't need to write anything in it.
Does anyone have an answer ?
I do not have the USB-8451 to check this myself, but based off of this document: http://www.ni.com/white-paper/5767/en/ I would guess you should be looking into these two VIs:
Advanced LabVIEW API for Device Addressing
Use the Script Address + Write or + Read Functions after a Script Issue Start function to program the device address.
Note: This, however, is just a shot in the dark. It seems like deep down they are calling a library, so it may be out of your control unless you have access to the library being called as well.
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
If someone helped you out, please select their post as the solution and/or give them Kudos!

Do we have driver available for Lake Shore Model 128 temperature sensor?

Do we have driver available for Lake Shore Model 128 temperature sensor? I want to make sure before we start writting our own drivers to communicate with this hardware.
Thanks,
Marivell Baez

Hi Marivell,
Take a look at ni.com/idnet. A quick browse found Lake Shore Cryotonics Temperature meters here: http://sine.ni.com/idnetwork/main/p/sn/n25:LM/sb/navsRel?q=lake+shore+temperature&x=0&y=0
This may not be what you are looking for though and consulting with your user manual for the appropriate commands to be sent would get you in the right direction for creating a complete set of Sub-VIs. Is this device a sensor or a meter controlled via an instrument protocol (GPIB, Serial, LAN, etc.)
PBear
NI RF

Can SCC-RTD01 be used with Cernox RTD's, silicon diode temperature sensors?

Hi,
Can the SCC-RTD01 be used with negative temperature
coefficient RTD's such as the Cernox RTD's. Can it be used with
silicon diode temperature sensors?
I was planning on using the SCC-RTD01 with platinum
resistance wires, but want a screw mount type sensor. Couldn't
find any platinum RTD devices with screw mounts, but could find the
Cernox and diode temperature sensors with the screw mounts.
Thanks,
Mark

Mark,
Thank you for contacting National Instruments! When you configure an RTD channel in the Measurement and Automation Explorer (MAX), you have the option of choosing from a list of "standard" RTD's or entering your own polynomial expression as the temperature coefficients. Therefore, negative coefficients shouldn't pose a problem. Also, I don't see any reason why a silicon diode temperature sensor would pose a problem either.
I hope this information is helpful to you!
Jeff P.
National Instruments Applications Engineer
Jeffrey P.
LabVIEW Product Management
National Instruments

MOVED: K9A2GM-FIH GPU temperature sensor

This topic has been moved to Overclockers & Modding Corner.
https://forum-en.msi.com/index.php?topic=124586.0

Quote from: Frankenputer on 22-February-09, 04:17:51
Run GPU-z or HWmonitor, but my guess is no, it doesn't have a temperature sensor. Won't hurt to try.
GPU-z: http://www.techpowerup.com/downloads/1333/TechPowerUp_GPU-Z_v0.3.2.html
HWmonitor: http://www.cpuid.com/hwmonitor.php
Tried it, but no GPU sensor. I'm trying to get the most of the onboard HD 3200 GPU, but doesn't want it to get too hot. Any tips? The GPU's MHz is now running at 600 MHz, instead of the default 500 MHz.

No CPU temperature sensor on Intel based Mac mini?

Does new Intel based Mac mini has no CPU temperature sensor like the first, PPC based, Mac mini?
If I'm wrong what universal utility should I use to monitor the CPU temperature of my brand new Intel CoreDuo Mac mini?

Every time a new model Mac comes out, the temperature monitoring utilities have to be updated. Obviously, the insides of the Intel Mac mini is different from the PowerPC Mac mini. The folks who write those kinds of tools can't see into the future and write a utility that will work on computers that haven't been released yet. Just give them a little while to catch up!
-Doug

Can FieldPoint be configured for use with 4 wire temperature sensors?

I would like to build a fieldpoint-based measurement system that is configured to accept 4 wire type low temperature sensors, pressure sensors, and several 4 wire (100ma) magnetic hall sensors. Each 4 wire temperature and magnetic hall sensor will require a stable current source (20ma -100ma range). We need to be able to synchronously read up to 8 sensors. Under certain circumstances we would like update rates up to 50 Hz (0.02 seconds) on all 8 channels. We currently have FieldPoint products, such as FP-1001 modules (RS-485 Network Interface), FP AI-110 modules (8 channel, 16 bit analog input), FP-RTD-122 modules (8 channel RTD input), FP-RLY-420 modules (SPST Relay), FP-TB-1 (36 screw terminal, Universal Terminal Base), NI-SCC-68 (68 pin Terminal Block with 4SCC expansion slots), PCI-8431 (RS-485 Serial 2 Channel Card), and other FP modules on hand that we would like to use in this experiment design if possible. I would like more information on the NI FP-RTD-124, (4 wire, 8 ch., 16 bit RTD input module) regarding use with platinum RTDs and low level/low temperature signals, and maximum refresh rates. Thanks for your help,
LGF

Hi LGF. FP-RTD-124 info is here: (c)FP-RTD-124 manual.
The range of the -124 on the low end is -200C; we use it to -196C with 100 ohm Platinum sensors with good results.
The update rate, ~ 1S, however, is not going to meet your requirements. Can your temperatures really change that rapidly?
The excitation is fixed at 2mA x 135 mS with a period of 1S. Fine for an RTD, don't know about your Hall sensors.
Your AI-110 module can be configured to read the Hall sensors with external excitation but the maximum update rate is 0.173S.
Hope that helps.
Matt

Scb 68 temperature sensor

Hi All,
Is it possible to read the value of the internal temperature sensor of the SCB68?
I am using NI PXI-6259 card. I have set the SCB 68 switches to 'MIO with differential temperature sensor mode' and i think i should be able to read the sensor value on AI0 and AI8 in differential mode. - As per page 6 of the user guide.
Initially i would like to read the value using MAX, but i am struggling to setup MAX to read the sensor.
I open max, find the 6259 card, open test panel, but then i can't see anything that looks like AI0 / AI8 differential mode.
Will the value be in degrees C, or will it be a number that requires scaling?
Many thanks,
Oliver.

Hey Oliver
The value read would be a voltage so would need scaling. The temp sensor in the SCB 68 is used to calculated the CJC of a connected temperature sensor. Below is a useful link on how to do this.
http://digital.ni.com/public.nsf/websearch/7F2EA1FE43537A0E8625652200522718
I see no reason why you couldnt read the voltage read from the daqmx task as described in the link.
Matthew Trott
Applications Engineer
National Instruments UK
www.ni.com/ask

GX70 - Temperature Sensor

Hello Everyone,
Problem description:
I have noticed that temperature sensor indicator stops updating when I plug in VGA cable to my laptop (TV and monitor checked)
When VGA cord is not plugged everything is OK.
GPU temp sensor works fine and also in AIDA64 sensors for CPU 1 to 4 core works well. Unfortunately Fan speed is connected to Overall CPU sensor.
Looks like if VGA socket is busy temperature sensor hangs.
Example:
My notebook after restart speeds up fan to maximum because indicator in AIDA64 shows 1 C even if my laptop is in idle. Other way I do not want to overheat my machine during gaming when temp sensor hangs at 37C fan will work with 35% of speed. Real CPU temperature will be 75C-80C. Fan will not cool CPU properly.
Anyone has or had similar problem?
I have latest BIOS, Firmware and AMD Video Drivers installed
BIOS : E176KAMS.10G
AMD Drivers: 14.4
I have also checked previous BIOSES and Video Drivers. No effect. Same issue.
CPU: A10-5750M
Graphic Card: AMD Radeon 8970M

..or..
Did anyone know how to connect fan speeds table to GPU temperature instead of CPU temperature table in EC?
That would more or less solve my problem since GPU and CPU units are connected by same heat pipe and have very similar temperatures.
BTW
This looks like a bug in Firmware or BIOS to me. What do you think?
I asked MSI in Customer Online Help few days ago, but they haven't replayed yet.

P67A-GD80 Temperature sensors

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