P6N Platinum SLI/C2D e6600 Overclock

I have a situation (i might not, thats why im posting here lol)
Currently my e6600 (week 09A) is overclocked to 3.2gHz (356x9) RAM set 1:1 @ 712, 4-4-4-12-2T timings (Patriot extreme ddr2 800 PC6400)
I have disabled all unnecesary BIOS features according to other threads for this board (spread spectrum, etc)
PSU is a thermaltake toughpower 700w modular, and of course the P6N platinum SLI.
My volts are as follows:
1.400 vcore
1.35 nbridge
4% fsb vtt
2.2 RAM
Everything else I left alone.
At these volts/frequencies I am able to get overnight orthos stable, intel TAT idle temps 33c, load 50-51c
My question is voltage. I should be able to get 3.2 at les than 1.4 vcore, yet even if i drop it one step, the comp freezes after an hour of orthos. I am seeing my voltages drop to 1.376 - 1.384 under 100 load, is that alot of vdroop? If it is, is there a pencil mod for this board, or could it me my psu thats the problem?
Also, if i up the fsb vtt, will that allow me to drop the vcore?
Sorry for the long thread, but I am very confused

Hello welcome to the forum,
Quote from: saiyanzzrage on 27-July-07, 19:50:08
I should be able to get 3.2 at les than 1.4 vcore
Nope, every CPU is different, because some people get it like that doesn't mean you will.
Quote from: saiyanzzrage on 27-July-07, 19:50:08
yet even if i drop it one step, the comp freezes after an hour of orthos. I am seeing my voltages drop to 1.376 - 1.384 under 100 load, is that alot of vdroop?
That's normal
Quote from: saiyanzzrage on 27-July-07, 19:50:08
Also, if i up the fsb vtt, will that allow me to drop the vcore?
Doubtful, but your only @ 51c with TAT, so your good.

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P6N Platinum SLI, E6750, 3.4GHz OC

I've written before about trying to OC my rig to 3.2GiggleHertz but was having stability problems. 2.9GHz is rock solid, anything above not so much.
Well now out of the blue, the system seems to be relatively stable at 3.4GHz (once again following DaLoona's advice). But it's just - not - quite - totally - stable. I ran it for about 14 hours playing games, web surfing, working with Dreamweaver, doing a little word processing, etc. Ran like a champ.
Left for a couple of hours and came home to a black screen. The computer running (all fans whirring and all lights on) but no display. All the power-saving features were off, so it didn't hibernate (or shouldn't have). Wouldn't wake for keystrokes, mouse moves or clicks, etc. Press the reset button, system booted right back up like nothing had happened.
So, I could vent my frustration in a number of ways, but decided to come to you instead, tell my tale of woe and ask "Now what?"
I've upped the Vcore about as high as I can go (0.1375 in BIOS, about 1.46 volts). I will push that a little more but am wondering if it's worth fiddling with the NB or VTT settings to try and get it a little more stable.
It boots into Windoze just fine and runs great - until it doesn't. I've run Orthos for hours, haven't tried anything else yet. Does anyone know why it would run and run and run and then just quit? It is soooo frustrating! It's like reaching the finish line just to see someone jerk it a couple of inches away, again and again. I have at least 60 hours invested in trying to make this thing stable, and 3.4GHz would be nirvana for me. Well, actually 400 GHz would be nirvana, but that's not going to happen in my lifetime.
Any advice or words of encouragement would be greatly appreciated. And Happy Yew Near's!
Update 30-Dec-08: the Vcore is now up to 0.1750 with a CPU voltage of 1.5 so I'm going to stop there. Previous runs of Orthos and Prime95 have failed, sometimes after a few minutes and sometimes after up to 45 minutes. I just ran MemTest (2 passes, 1.5 hours, no errors) so I'm guessing that memory is not the issue. I'm about to start Prime95 again.
Update 31-Dec-08: with Vcore at 0.1750 it's been running about 14 hours with no problem. I ran Prime95 for for more than an hour, worked for awhile, did a little gaming and left it idle all night. Still running fine though I'm wary of running more benchmarks. I wouldn't call the system stable yet, but right now it looks as if I could use it for personal and business use without big worries - I will just save my work-in-process a little more often.
My settings are:
FSB 1700
Memory Linked at default timings (5-5-5-18-2T)
Northbridge 1.35
Southbridge default
Vcore 0.1750
VTT 4%
CPU Spread Spectrum disabled
Everything else in BIOS at Optimized defaults
The E6750 is a B stepping and revision G0
http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=473342
Sid (the Old Weird Pro)

Ok, I'm officially an idiot. Didn't think to check the temps because I had just rebuilt the PC about 4 months ago and they were good then. However, the PC is in our kitchen and even after just four months, the CPU fan was completely caked with dust so that there was no airflow. I did check the fan earlier to see that it was running, but I didn't pull it out into the light. Sheesh. Running at 3.4 and 800 FSB now. Need to get a better fan and heatsink.
Thanks for the help man!
Parker

P6N Platinum Memory Sudden Death

I've been running a P6N Platinum for 11 months with no problems. I have an E6600 slightly overclocked and (2) sticks of G.skill 2GBHZ memory. I was using the computer as normal and had some slight hesitations, it had been awhile (weeks) since I rebooted so I did so only to get a bootmgr missing screen, tried again same thing so I powered the computer down. When I turned it back on, nothing no video no post only running fans. I tried one stick of memory in slot 1 then the other still nothing. I called MSI and they said it sounded like the board. I bought another one and had it next dayed. Put it all together and had the same problem. Went to the local computer store and picked up a new power supply and memory came home put the memory in and all was well again. So my question is what would take out to sticks of memory at the same time? I have a Enermax Liberty 500W dual rail supply and the whole system is on an APC 1250 conditioning backup. Do you thing the old board is still good or should I send it back to MSI?
Sorry, the original system is as follows.
MSI P6N Platinum motherboard
Intel E6600 CPU
Scythe Infinity Cooler
Enermax Liberty ELT500AWT PSU 28A@+3.3V 30A@+5V 22A@+12V1 22A@+12V2 .6A@-12V 3A@+5Vsb
2 GB (2x1GB) G.Skill DDR2 800 Model F2-6400PHU2-2GBHZ
MSI NX8600GTS-T2D256-OC Video Card
ATI Theatre 550 PCI TV Tuner
(2) Seagate 320 GB 7200 RPM Serial ATA drive.
Samsung SH-S203B DVD reader/writer
Vista 32bit Ultimate.
The new memory installed is.
2GB kit (1GBx2), Ballistix 240-pin DIMM, DDR2 PC2-8500
I didn't end up using the power supply I bought at the local store just the new Ballistix memory. I hate to try the new
memory in the old board just in case there is a problem with the board that took out the memory. I could see one
stick failing but two at once is kind of strange. The memory was set at 2.1V 4-4-4-12 2T.

Quote
Do you thing the old board is still good or should I send it back to MSI?
Well, I suppose testing the board again with your new components is the best chance to get a definate answer to this question.
Quote
Went to the local computer store and picked up a new power supply and memory came home put the memory in and all was well again. So my question is what would take out to sticks of memory at the same time? I have a Enermax Liberty 500W dual rail supply and the whole system is on an APC 1250 conditioning backup.
Provide full system specs, otherwise it is hard to answer this question. Read the >>Posting Guide<< to get an idea of what details we need to know.
You said you bought a new power supply. Is that the Enermax Liberty PSU? If not, what kind of power supply were you using before (brand, model, amperage limit on 5V, 3.3V and 12V rails)?

OCing a P6N 650i SLI Platinum ...

I just put together a new system and am in the process of OCing it. I have a few questions and was hoping people here could help.
First my system specs:
MSI P6N 650i Platinum
C2D E6600 OCd to 3150 MHz (350 x 9 / 1400 FSB)
4 GB (4 x 1) Crucial Ballistix PC6400 @ 800 4-4-4-12 2.2v
Zalman CNPS 9700 LED (wow, what a beast!)
Antec 900 Case
eVGA 8800 GTS 640 (clocked stock for now-haven't gotten that far)
2 x 160G Hitachi Deskstar SATAs in Striped raid
Hiper Type-R 580W modular Power Supply (28A 12v Rail)
Sony NEC Optiarc SATA 18x DVD Burner
Win Vista Home Premium x86 32bit
vCore +.1000
vRam 2.2v
vNB 1.3v
vSB [stock 1.5?]
vTT 8%
I have OC'd my E6600 to 3150 mHz (350 x 9 / 1400 FSB). Getting about 28c idle and 45c each core at full load (Orthos). Had some stability issues when I bumped it to 375. I tried bumping up the vCore and vNB to .1500 and 1.35 but still had some stability issues and didn't want to go higher in the volts so I backed down to 360, was stable for about 30 minutes then Orthos threw an error... So I backed down to 350 and I'm totally stable over 4 hours of Orthos--will give it the good 12 hour run this weekend.
I saw something about clocking down memory somewhere in this or anther forum and was wondering if that might have been my problem. I have the mem locked at 800 and timings set to mfg spec, but am wondering if I should be lowering the timing from 800 or loosening the 4-4-4-12 to 5-5-5-18 or maybe doing both to get more stability above 350. Thoughts?
What's the temp I should be avoiding when full load with this CPU? I'm assuming 60c+ is too hot, 50-55c is about as hot as I should run it at full load and not worry. Is that assumption correct? Or can I actually push this chip all the way to 60c without worrying about damage?
What's considered a reasonable overclock expectation on the E6600s? 3GHz, 3.4GHz? 3.9GHz? Should I be super happy with the 3.15 I have now with it running this cool and stable and just stop? If you were in my position, do you think you would try bumping it a little more?
Lastly, upon boot-up I get a message saying something like "you have installed a processor rated at 267MHz. This speed does not match and there will be a degradation in performance running the chip this way" -- or something like that... It's a warning message that shows up right at the beginning of booting just after the system figures the bus is "352 x 9 = 3168" (but cpuz shows 3150, weird). Is there anything to this message or just ignore it? Can I get rid of the message somehow (other than enabling full screen boot up thing)?
Anyway... Awesome experience with this build so far. Having a great time tweaking it!! Loving this Motherboard and chip combo!
Thanks for any help! This board has been a great resource for info on getting the most out of my new system!
Howard

Quote from: leibov on 19-May-07, 12:37:28
When you say "a much higher vcore" push, what would be considered "safe-ish"? with +.1500 (upped it today) Im at 1.47v right now. Guessing stay under 1.6 at the high end?
I'd keep below 1.5V. At a certain point the law of diminishing returns comes up, i think it's a bad idea to burn Vcore for only a few mhz gain - for 24/7 use anyway.
Quote from: leibov on 19-May-07, 12:37:28
Also... Back in "the day" OCing the FSB was more important that pure clock speed because when you OCd the FSB you Increased the speed of memory transfer. With mem locked, what is the benefit of hitting 401 FSB if you have to down multiply to 8x? at 3200 I'd only be 50 Mhz faster then now. Is the point of dropping to 8x just to switch strap and be able to get another few hundred out of the chip or is there still significance to higher FSBs other than pure clock speed. Are the 3.6GHz clocks you mentioned usually at a 8x setting (450x8) as opposed to 400x9?
I've seen a few posts that lead me to think this board changes strap at 400 Mhz. It could be your chipset beeing unstable at 375Mhz but if it changes strap at 400 it could be stable again at 401Mhz and onward. Dropping the multiplier is required to test this. Say the chipset does become stable at 401 Mhz, but you use x9 multi for 3609 Mhz and your CPU can't handle 3609, then you'd never know.
Test 375 x 8 = 3Ghz first. If this combo is stable then your chipset is fine @ 375Mhz; then it's just your cpu maxing out at 375 x 9.
If this is still not stable then it's your chipset not beeing able to handle 375Mhz, try 401 x 8 next to see if the strap change works.
Like i said i've only seen a few posts wich've shown this board to have a second breath past 400 wich leads me to believe it changes strap or something - It's not written in stone tho, you'll just have to try.
Pushing northbridge voltage a little might help too.

P6N Platinum, Problem with SLI

Hi
I'm newbie...
I have problem with SLI, maybe Drivers isn't good for Sli...
My Specs:
Core 2 Duo 4300
Zalman 9700 NT
Msi P6n Platinum
Mem 2x1GB OCZ Reaper HPC PC6400, DDR 2 800
XFX Geforce 8600GT XXX (Special Overclocker) Core 620/1600
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PSU Corsair 620 HX
Maxtor 160gb SATAII DiamondMAX
I just install the driver Forceware (Version 163.63_whql) and i cannot using SLI.
Later I just uninstall my driver 163.63 and Driver Cleaner for uninstall all driver nvidia, (ALL CLEAN).
So I just install the driver Forceware (Version 163.71_whql) and Finish Installer and restart my system.
Boot Windows XP, and Show that i have mode SLI CAPABLE.
I just enable SLI and apply, suddenly Shut down my computer and turn on again, boot post and loading windows xp.
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What is wrong?
My system:
*** NO OVERCLOCKER, ALL DEFAULT
*** No UPDATE BIOS.
*** VERY STABLE, but no working SLI...
I have two card, is same model 8600 GT.. but different core and memory.
First PCI-ex is XFX Geforce 8600GT XXX
Second PCI-ex is Evga Geforce 8600GT
Question:
Which is the best drivers for capable SLI?
Help, for Enable SLI...
Thank you

Quote from: Abraham55 on 11-October-07, 01:11:46
I did, i put SLI Switch Card : SLI MODE, 8x + 8x
I can see two video cards, (each video cards have 8x)
So when i want enable SLI MODE, and apply, suddenly SHUT DOWN MY COMPUTER..
Make sure power cables are connected to the each one.(if they have).
"XFX Geforce 8600GT XXX (Special Overclocker) Core 620/1600
Evga Geforce 8600GT (normal) Core 540/1400"
If no change try with 2x matched VGAs...

New P6N SLI-FI and Overclocking

Hi Forum.. Just built a new box with following components:
Intel C2D-E6400
MSI P6N 650i SLI-FI mobo
Patriot Extreme Performance DDR2-800 (2.2v) memory/2gig
Rosewill RCX-Z775-SL 92mm 2 Ball CPU Cooler
Seagate Barracuda 7200.10 ST3320620AS HDD
XFX PVT80GGHE9 GeForce 8800GTS 320MB PCIE GPU
COOLER MASTER eXtreme Power 650W Power Supply
COOLER MASTER Centurion 5 CAC-T05-UB Black ATX Mid Tower Computer Case
Installed WinXP Pro with sp2 and system is up and running (without a hiccup) quite nicely... PCAlert4 shows: CPU=20c, Sysytem=25c, CPU Fan=2170... CoreTemp shows: Core#0=32c, Core#1=31c.... My guess is that these numbers are good.
I have built quite a few builds over the last 15 years but mostly on the AMD platform and have "never" attempted to overclock... I was thinking of trying it with this new build as it seems, from this forum, I have all the right components... I would like to try a modest O/C maybe up to 3ghz... I went to the bios and the Cell menu and tried to make some changes but some items will not allow you to change their values and to be quite honest, I'm not sure "what" values need to be changed and "where", to attain an O/C of 3ghz... I appoligize for my ignorance in overclocking but I really do not want to screw up this system... I was hoping that one of you nice gents out their with the same basic components could point me in the right direction... "Thanks in advance", JD <aka: Peckrhead>

Hi Forum.. Just built a new box with following components:
Intel C2D-E6400
MSI P6N 650i SLI-FI mobo
Patriot Extreme Performance DDR2-800 (2.2v) memory/2gig
Rosewill RCX-Z775-SL 92mm 2 Ball CPU Cooler
Seagate Barracuda 7200.10 ST3320620AS HDD
XFX PVT80GGHE9 GeForce 8800GTS 320MB PCIE GPU
COOLER MASTER eXtreme Power 650W Power Supply
COOLER MASTER Centurion 5 CAC-T05-UB Black ATX Mid Tower Computer Case
Installed WinXP Pro with sp2 and system is up and running (without a hiccup) quite nicely... PCAlert4 shows: CPU=20c, Sysytem=25c, CPU Fan=2170... CoreTemp shows: Core#0=32c, Core#1=31c.... My guess is that these numbers are good.
I have built quite a few builds over the last 15 years but mostly on the AMD platform and have "never" attempted to overclock... I was thinking of trying it with this new build as it seems, from this forum, I have all the right components... I would like to try a modest O/C maybe up to 3ghz... I went to the bios and the Cell menu and tried to make some changes but some items will not allow you to change their values and to be quite honest, I'm not sure "what" values need to be changed and "where", to attain an O/C of 3ghz... I appoligize for my ignorance in overclocking but I really do not want to screw up this system... I was hoping that one of you nice gents out their with the same basic components could point me in the right direction... "Thanks in advance", JD <aka: Peckrhead>
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Various advice needed to overclock cpu using my MSI k8n platinum sli

Hey guys, i recently overclocked my amd 64 3500 cpu to 2.4ghz (from 2.2ghz) i was wondering if any could tell me how high i can get this cpu up to using the msi k8n platinum sli mobo.
At the moment the cpu's temp goes to 40-45 oC.
If i can overclock the cpu some more, can anyone give me detailed instructions on how to overclock it as i'm computer newbie.
i'm using the standard amd heatsink and fan so i know that will comprimise the potentail of the cpu's overclocking capability, as i heard that some people managed to get their cpu up to 3.ghz with a high quality fan, so i was just wondering if anyone can tell me how high i can get my cpu frequency with a standard fan as i really don't want to risk damaging the cpu if i go overboard.
Thnx in advance.
P.S Does anyone come across any green flashing lights while playing their games when the high performance settings mode is set to optimized in bios settings mode??
AMD ATHLON 64 3500@ 2.4GHZ
MSI K8N NFORCE4 SLI PLATINUM MOBO
1024MB DUAL CHANNEL DDR RAM 333MHZ
120GB HDD
2X PNY GEFORCE FX 6600GT PCI-E (SLI MODE)

what HSF for cpu/ cooling for the case do you use? And also, where are the flashing lights?

P6N Platinum Bios Resetting on Boot

Hi all,
I've got a P6N Platinum that the bios resets on almost every day.
-I turn the PC off each night (start - shutdown - from windows)
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-If I press and hold the power button until it turns off, the turn it back on, the same thing happens.
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Sounds like a battery problem, but it's connected to AC all of the time.
System Specs:
Core2Duo E6600
EVGA 8800 GTX KO
2 GB Corsair RAM
Creative X-FI
300 GB Seagate SATA drive (boot)
Lite-On DVD Drive (IDE)
Vista Ultimate 32 bit.
Antec Sonata case with SmartPower2 450W PS.
All new.
Thanks,
Sweeps

Quote from: flyer335 on 20-April-07, 01:54:06
If the system locks up or crashes once fully booted into the O/S, and will not re-boot on subsequent attempts, it should reset BIOS to "Optimized Defaults", telling you, "Warning!!! The previous performance of overclocking has failed... Please press any key to continue...". Afterwhich, it will boot with the default settings.
If, instead, it successfully re-boots within three attempts of the three-finger-salute boot after the lock-up, it should maintain the user selected BIOS settings.
That's normal.
I am beginning to think MSI has come up with a "learning" or "self-healing" BIOS. What few little annoying problems I've had are slowly disappearing, one boot at a time.
When you are playing Lord of the Rings do you get physical; shaking or striking your desk or computer? Could be loose wires. I know my truck acts like that at times.
I see that message in the manual, but I have never received it. It's never taken three attempts - just one. And, the problem occurs after a normal shutdown. (but so far only after the game has crashed).
I've been known to turn my keyboard into popcorn before, but not with this system!! - YET!
Sweeps.

Problem with MSI X58 Platinum SLI - IOH temperature !

Hi guys.
I have this PC configuration:
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- Intel Core i7 930 2.80 GHz box ( with Intel Turbo Boost running sometimes at 3.06 Ghz )
- MSI GeForce GT240 1GB DDR5 128-bit HDMI
- Corsair 6GB DDR3 1333MHz CL9 XMS3 Triple Channel Kit ( sets to AUTO and running at 1066 Mhz )
- Corsair CMPSU-750TXEU
- Ordinary case ( http://img828.imageshack.us/img828/4200/161020101246.jpg & http://img29.imageshack.us/img29/8480/161020101247.jpg ).
- Windows 7 Ultimate 64 bit.
I bought my PC components 2 months ago, so they are new.
Now, guys I think that is a problem with my motherboard. When I turn on the computer in Bios I have this temps: CPU – 30 C (86 F); IOH – 71 C (159 F); System 30 C (86 F) - http://img687.imageshack.us/img687/394/161020101242.jpg. After 2 minutes the temperatures are: CPU – 34 C (93 F); IOH – 82 C (179 F); System 41 C (105 F) and 2 more minutes later the temperatures are: CPU – 34 C (93 F); IOH – 84 C (183 F); System 43 C (109 F). After 30 minutes of doing nothing I have this temps: CPU – 35 C (95 F); IOH – 85 C (185 F); System 42 C (107 F) -
Guys it is normal with IOH temperature ? I am a little worried about it ( to be honest I am more than “a little” … I am worried a lot ).
Ok, I know I don’t have a good case but in 3 weeks I should receive this Thermaltake Spedo Advance Case (http://www.thermaltakeusa.com/Product.aspx?C=1121&ID=1829) and I will buy a new CPU cooler ( I don’t know yet wich one – maybe Corsair CWCH70 or Noctua NH-D14 but I have to see the case first … to be sure there is a plenty of space for those coolers ).
Pls help me with that IOH temperature. It is normal ? What if I intend to make a little OC ( lets say CPU to 3652 Mhz and RAM to 1333 Mhz … but also I will ask for your support ! ) my motherboard will burn ?
If it is necessary I will contact my retailer and send him back the motherboard but … I like MSI a lot.
Thx guys for your support !

Hey guys,
Here is a nice cheap alternative.
Here is my story about the same issue. I found it after looking at why my computer freezes sometimes. Not very often but enough for me to do some investigation. I noticed my IOH temp was a whopping 117 degrees Celsius. lol. Surprised my mobo didn't burn out by now. I wanted to evaluate the situation with the heat sink and decided to take it off. After taking it off I found extremely crusty purple compound on board the chipset and the heatsink. I took me FOREVER to scrape it off. it was almost like a cement which I found odd. After scraping and cleaning the surfaces with alcohol, I placed some silver compound on and proceeded to put it back on.
Well, upon hooking everything back up I was still at 95 to 103 degs. Now I started to really look at the options to replace this. I had SLI config which means I had to do something clever with the southbridge as well. A nice thermaltake chipset solution w/fan and a low profile copper southbridge with shipping was about 45 bucks. Hmm ... This is a sure fix from the threads I have read and its really kid of expensive to fix a simple defect. the problem is not necessarily with the heatsink not being sufficient. Its the combo of the compound used vs the amount of pressure applied between the heatsink and chipset. It was completely unacceptable. I knew this right away when I was watching the temp and then I would press on the top of the IOH heatsink and I would watch it drop another 15 degrees in less then 10 seconds. The springs are extremely weak and not effective at all in transferring the heat from the NB.
Here if my fix. Cost me less than a dollar at the hardware store and it works ideal thus far. Do this at your own risk. Doing this will probably void any warranty too. All my problems are solved and I am running at 57 degrees, YES, 57 degrees with the stock heatsink and no additional cooling.
For one scrape all that old crap off like I did. Apply your new compound. But when you go to replace your heatsink, use the following method. The trick is to use metal screws with a mobo washer, original springs from the plastic studs and a nylon locknut. Use screws that are the same diameter and length (maybe a tad bit longer) as the plastic retainer studs. Also grab a few of those red nylon mobo washers too, were gonna need them as well.
After scraping and applying compound, reassemble as follows. Screw with washer inserted into the back of the mobo so the threads are out front. The plastic/nylon washer is betweeen the screwhead and the back of the mobo as a insulator. Put the heatsink on. With the threads thru the heatsink already, put the springs on and start spinning on the locknut. I torqued the nut down on the spring until the spring almost became fully compressed. The purpose of the spring here is really to prevent you breaking something and at the same time using the max force of the spring since it weak to begin with. Thats why we need to compress it down pretty much all the way. There will be little to no room in the spring at this point. The heatsink at this point should be pretty solid to the board as well. I noticed with the plastic studs before the heatsink would wobble if you gave it a little rocking back and forth before. Not this time. Shouldn't move much if at all. Remember not to torque down too much. You don't want to go beyond the springs compression. Even if you did by accident, its better then not using a spring at all. If you feel that it starts to feel tight when torquing, you torqued too far. Stop an backup a 1/4 turn or so. It is also very important to make sure both torques are equal on both sides as well. Alternate sides when torquing down. I could tell by how much thread I had left on both sides and by looking for any uneven sides.
To summarize, the compound is a problem no doubt. After you resolve the compound issue, its all about the adequate pressure between the heatsink and the IOH. Much like the amount of pressure needed between your CPU and your heatsink give or take. And the pressure that would be as an aftermarket solution like the thermaltake chipset cooler. You dont see cheesy springs on that. Wake up MSI. Simpy using a more effective spring could save MSI some cash in the long run. I envision a leafsprin design like the thermaltake chipset one. The heatsink design could be better, sure, but the design itself is not the problem. Replace the heatsinks if you would like to, if your overclocking and stuff. Funny, this board I have is a refurb too and only had it for a few weeks. Figured they would have done something about it.
Sorry the pics are not the best. Here is about as close as I could get to the finished product

New P6N Platinum acting wierd...

What's up guys. My dad's computer at his office has been giving him problems like locking up, sluggish performance even after a reformat, etc so he gave me $1200 to build him a new machine that will last him "a long time". hahah
So I've put together a pretty decent Core2Duo machine. Here are the specs
E6400
P6N Platinum
1 gig of Gskill DDR2 800
This stick
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.asp?Item=N82E16820231085
A corsair 520 watt PSU
Generic PCIE video card
75 gig Raptor HDD (I'm going to use his existing HDD as supplimental storage)
Samsung DVD writer
I put it together, the system loaded windows XP fine, I installed the motherboard's monitoring software that Dual Core center thing, video drivers, Ntune software (which I now know is useless) and then proceeded to install office, some anti spyware apps, antivirus software, etc...
That's all well and good but here's where trouble started up.
During the software install, the Dual core center that was monitoring the fan speeds and cpu temp flashed at me saying one of the case fans wasn't spinning. I opened the side panel and both case fans were spinning fine. (X_<)
I disabled that montior and continue installing stuff. A minute or two later, the other one goes red saying the 2nd case fan wasn't spinning. I still had the side off and could clearly see all connected fans still spinning. I disabled that one thinking it was the last I'd hear.
I have an E6600 and another P6N platinum and 2 gigs of patriot DDR2 1066 ram coming today for my own system upgrade and I had already bought an EVGA 7600GT video card to use temporarily until the DX10 cards start dropping in price.
Anyways, I wanted to see what sort of benchmarks the unclocked system could spit out so I shutdown, popped the 7600 in, rebooted, re-installed the latest Nvidia drivers and installed FEAR.
I ran fear and it froze up during one of the pregame splash screens. I held down the power button to reboot it and when I turned it back on, the system physically came on but there was no post and the monitor stayed in standby mode. No beeps or anything. All 4 little LED's on the Dbracket thing were lit up green.
Thinking mabey something was up with the video card I shutdown and put the old card back in. Same thing with this one now. No power to the monitor, no beep, no post, nothing.
So at this point, I start going through the usual suspects. I tried booting with the ram in a different slot each time and still nothing, I unplugged the floppy and cdrom ide cables, nothing. I unplugged the hard drive, pulled the Cmos battery, pressed the little clear CMOS button, etc... nothing. I even went so far as to pull the video card itself and still no warning beeps or anything.
At this point, I was thinking it could be the ram stick was bad or the CPU was bad or even the motherboard itself. I was thinking mabey the mobo due to the previous warnings about the fan speed.
In one last desparate attempt, I put the generic video card back in, hooked up everything but the floppy and put the memory back in the original green slot 1 and took it into the kitchen to my work space and plugged it in and turned it on and lo and behold, it beeped at me and the Dbracket LED's indicated that the floppy wasn't attached. I hooked up a monitor using the VGA (rather than the DVI which was in my computer room) and the windows loading screen was up.
I shutdown, hooked the floppy back up and watched the led's on the Dbracket as it started up and they appeared to go through a sequence of checking everything as they all were flashing green to red and then all green and windows was up and running as normal. At this point, I'm still holding my breath just waiting for it to lock back up and give me grief again but it never does.
right now, I'm at work and it's sitting next to me and has been running stress tests for the last hour and a half without a hitch. CPU temp is peaking at around 53*C.
When I get back from lunch, I'm going to run memtest and spinrite 6 to make sure the HDD is good to go and after that image the hdd for backup purposes.
I'm hesitant whether or not I should tell my dad that his machine is finished becuase I don't know what in the world went wrong last night. In my experience, when something fails, it's not going to work again. I haven't tried running fear again. I actually uninstalled it as he'll never use that but I was wondering if you guys could offer any ideas on what went wrong?
I'm going to image both this machine and his old machine before I wipe his old HDD and put it in this new one just in case something does go wrong again, I can just pop the old HDD in his old machine, load the image and minimize down time while whatever parts need to be replaced are out.
Thanks for any suggestions or ideas!

I had already planned on that. I don't know if it was one of those that caused the problem or what but I'd rather it not be there at all than lurking in the background.
Memtest came up with no errors, stress tests passed fine (for now) and spinrite is about finished with zero hdd errors.

Sound problems K8N Platinum Sli neo4

My system:
K8N Platinum Sli Neo4
Asus Nvidia 6800TD
AMD64 FX-55 (not overclocked) 2.6Ghz
2 x 512 Corsair 3200XLPT
Hiper Type-R series 480W PSU
Creative Labs 7.1 T7900 speakers
2 x SATA 80Gb Hitachi HGST 7200rpm / 8Mb
I didnt have the problem at the beggining (Had the system 2 weeks, and its been ongoing for a week or so.) but it seems to start after getting into windows... every few minutes "SHHHHHH" then it gets more often, then its just NON stop and a reboot doesnt clear it, nor does turning off/on the power for the speakers. You can faintly still hear the others sounds of games/music, but that much noise over the top is silly. I read here about the power supply problems. Not having a -5v and maybe not enough Amps, but i dont want to jump the boat and replace my PSU, seeing as i do get sound anyway, so maybe its not the problem. I see in the PSU manual, it quotes about pin 7 and 20 being -5VDC. I take it thats the ones i need? and on the +12V1 18A, so thats too low Amp wise, could be the prob? (dunno what the VDC and V1 is about). Also it seems to be the LEFT and RIGHT speakers mainly... the green lead. Soon as i take that out, the "SHHHHHH" stops, except for a few occasions on the remaining speakers. One last thing, ive not been able to get sound from the Middle right or left speakers, except when i change to 5.1 in the settings and flip the 5.1 convert to 7.1 switch on the Amplifier, and it makes the side speakers the rear ones, lol.
It doesnt seems to be a problem with my speakers, because i can plug any headphones/speakers in that green socket and "SHHHHH" again. Im out of ideas, so anyone else know about a solution???

Hi Jamesfle,
if you want the onboard sound to work properly & you feel your psu is under amped & especially if you purchased both mobo & psu from same supplier (you can argue incompatability). i'd try to rma the PSU At worse you may have a restocking fee but at least you'll have something that works properly with
Alternatively but possibly with a longer lead time follow Wonkanoby's suggestion to return the mobo for MSI to supply a non -5v board.
luck

Replacement For P6N Platinum

Having RMAd my board my supplier, Scan, have told me that the P6N Platinum is no longer available. Can anyone suggest a suitable replacement please that doesn't have any reliability issues and that will offer future proofing for the next generation of Intel processors and support for DDR3? I am prepared to pay a bit more than the P6N cost! The board needs to be compatible with my E6750 chip, SLi Graphics cards and DDR2 800mhz RAM so it will support my current components.
Jim

If SLI capability is your main concern..you are limited, naturally, to the Nvidia chipsets. The P7N Platinum is available and if it's like the P7N Diamond, it should be trouble free since it's an improvement on an existing chipset. If DD3 makes a difference to you, then you will have to wait a month or two and wait for the 790 series to appear. Given the pricey status of DD3, a board with DDR2/3 compatibilty would be sweet. Check out the P7N Platinum, it may fill all your needs except the DD3.
Paul

P6N Platinum - Power down on boot

I am looking for help in building my P6N Platinum based system. I will boot to VGA Bios and then power itself down. I can see the Machine write the VGA BIOS to the screen before power down, and the last light set on the D-Bracket is VGA BIOS write to screen. Only problem here is that card works fine in other machines and is less than a week old as a factory replacement for a previous card. I doubt it is the source.
I swapped out a P4N that fried the previous XFX card, so This is getting very frustrating. New motherboard, new PCIE VGA card, yet another set of problems.
I've been a longtime user and system builder with MSI products, But I suspect that compared to some here, I am still very wet behind the ears.
I have:
P6N Platinum v1.0
XFX 7600 PCIE SLI in x16 slot of course
Corsair XMS2-5400 2x512, timing of 4-4-4-12; 675MHz. Supposedly 1.9v
Ultra 600W power supply with 18a & 20a per rail. 8 Pin CPU plug & 24 Pin ATX. 4 Sata & 6 Standard Molex plugs
I have tried everything on a cardboard box and in the case. Grounding is not an issue.
Have tried multiple power supplies already. I still have Newegg's RMA period, but want to rule out my other parts first. I cannot get to Post ever, so flashing Bios is not an option. Have tried to reset Bios three times already.

Quote from: AaronYuri on 15-July-07, 09:10:48
It's 10 seconds easy for dual core. And it would explain the cut outs, the CPU shutting down the cores when there's too much heat.
I reinstalled the processor and heatsink, and the machine will post and I can get to Bios. But after about 1 minute, the screen goes blank. It does not matter if I try let the OS load or go to the Bios. After about 60sec the machine will lock up and the screen will go blank. The fans are still spinning, the machine is still on, and the amber and green MB LED's are still lit. But nothing will happen. Blank screen, regardless of what I do.
I suspect the CPU fan is not going fast enough and perhaps is damaged. I have ordered a warranty replacement from Intel.
My question is, I tried to turn the machine on about 5 times tonight and got the blank screen. I have stopped trying now, but is it possible any of the MB was damaged by this trying? I still have 20 days left to RMA to Newegg.
Does anyone have any other ideas why this may be happening?
Specs are as listed above, Power supply is http://www.tigerdirect.com/applications/SearchTools/item-details.asp?EdpNo=2974500&CatId=1483

K8N Neo4 Platinum/SLI

I am confused with regard to what is actually included with the K8N Neo4 Platinum/SLI board in the US. Unfortunately, MSI isn't very clear with their information.
Does this board include the following, or are they optional, & if optional how can I get them:
IEEE 1394 (Firewire) ports (1 external, 2 internal)
SPDIF Out
D-Bracket 2
SATA 5-6 ports
Anybody actually have this board installed & running yet, & would you buy this board if you were starting all over again? Were your experiences with this board good or bad? Any gotchas?
Thanks

Quote
Unfortunatly, the MSI-websites (american, european, taiwanese) all have slightly different specs listed, but none exactly covered what my package included.
I've read numerous posts about MSI motherboards & video cards not meeting the manufacturer's claimed specifications. This deeply troubles me, & makes me wonder if I should buy MSI products at all.
Quote
f you buy 2 6600GT's now, you're stuck on the performance of about a single 6800GT, less in some cases.
If you buy a 6800GT now, you get the same bang, but have the option to add anotherone later to up your rig!
Exactly my point! I just can't see paying extra money on a high-end, bleeding-edge SLI motherboard, then populating it with 2 mid-level graphics cards. I suppose that seems logical to some people, but not me. I've also read in the reviews that the attachment of the heatsink/fan on the 6600GT is not physically secure, & many of the heatsinks aren't properly attached to, or making full contact with, the GPU on retail versions of the cards!
Of course, SLI is still very much a technology that has yet to prove its promise. Very few games support it, & teething pains abound. We're still in the verion 1.0 of SLI motherboards, which is kind of scary, & all of the current crop of SLI motherboards seem to have their "issues." nVIDIA is lagging behind in releasing updated video card drivers. Maybe SLI isn't quite "ready for primetime" yet.
Quote
An Ultra would be a waste of money. The difference is not worth the extra dough for it, and a brand GT can
be clocked to Ultra-levels as well.
Some people would not want to spend the extra $ on an Ultra, but others might feel that it is well worth the cost. Sure, you can overclock a GT to gain a bit of extra performance, but what levels of performance can you gain by overclocking the Ultra? I don't know the answer to this. I still have a lot of research to conduct concerning the nVIDIA 6800GT & Ultras, & the "real world" viability of SLI.

P6N Platinum SLI/C2D e6600 Overclock

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