P6N - SLI - FI NB (North Bridge) Heatsink Wobble (Ok)

If your NB heatsink wobbles easily it is because they use a sponge thermal pad between it and the epoxied IC, whose surface is not flat. The thermal pad has good thermal performance and works well. The reason it wobbles is there is a square perimeter on the heatsink but the NB IC is rotated 45 degrees on the board so only the corners of the perimeter material make contact. If they put the perimeter material the same orientation as the IC then the wobble would be almost gone. Don't know what their real intentions were, they may have done this for air circulation reasons. It does the job.
[By the way, I read the NB ICs are designed to tolerate much higher operating temperatures than CPUs; CPUs being ~60C. A small airflow on the heatsink can help a lot, a medium fan will help even more.]

here is what I did , before I even booted up my brand new board I dumped that flimsey looking heatsink and Installed this
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835116018
it looks AND works very well, it is all coper , w/a cool blue fan . I applied some AS5 on my NB and south bridge
No real issues with my artic cooler freezer pro CPU heatsink
Only bad thing about this NB Heatsink is you will have to remove your board from the case to install it

Similar Messages

MOVED: P6N SLI Platinum - safe North Bridge voltage

This topic has been moved to Overclockers & Modding Corner.
https://forum-en.msi.com/index.php?topic=114252.0

Thank you as it took care of my occasional lockup while gaming _

Fanless North Bridge heatsinks?

Are any of these any good,if so which ones would work best on my board?

Bchivers,
I have the same mobo as you and I installed the passive Zalman ZM-NB47J (similar to the one Richard recommended). Works great and oooh so quiet. If this is your first attempt at replacing a chipset fan, I have a piece of advice for you that I wish someone had told me before attempting it. If you think you can replace it without removing the mobo from the case, think again. The pushpins are a real pain to remove from the original fan and they require you to crimp them from the behind the mobo before pulling on them or they won't come out without causing some damage.

Replace the North Bridge fan Heatsink

Tought the MEGA PC isnt quiet enough, seems to be the North Brige fan who always goes on the same speed. One tougth is the following;
Is a Zalman North Bridge Heatsink good enough to replace the North Bridge fan on a MEGA PC? It seems to be enougt height if you skip the idea of a secondary IDE drive. Or are there some better 3rd party noise killer fans available for the North Bridge?
Your opinions pleese?

Wonkanobody writes:
your using onboard vga thats in that chip so it really needs active cooling
I also have this noise complaint, and I use a separate AGP card (ATI AIW 9000). the Video card is already rather quite.
Does this mean I can easily remove the fan when I do not use on-board VGA. Does the chip really need a fan?

MSI P6N SLI V2 CPU Heatsink Q

Hi,
I have a quick question about compatible heatsinks for this board (MSI P6N SLI V2). I've been looking at a few and have decided to go for the Zalman CNPS9500A-LED (I'm pretty sure it'll fit) does anybody have one of these fitted?? I did read on another forum that there might be a problem with the underside of the board, but it wasn't very clear which board they were refering to....
Any help would be great...... Many Thanks

I suggest you also ask Zalman directly: http://www.zalman.com/ENG/Contact/GetSupport/Write_Form.asp

MSI P6N SLI-F Northbridge Heatsink dimensions?

I'm looking around for a nice quiet CPU heatsink/fan that will fit on the MSI P6N SLI-F motherboard.
there's been a couple that I've had to rule out because the Northbridge heatsink is too close to the CPU socket -- but can anyone tell me how tall the stock heatsink on the northbridge is, on this particular motherboard?
It's kind of hard to tell the scale on most of the motherboard pictures that are floating around. If anyone can tell me how many mm this heatsink rises above the motherboard, I'd much appreciate it!
(Suggestions for a quiet CPU fan to be used with a Core 2 Duo E6600 that will fit this motherboard are also very welcome. I'm not intending to overclock -- low noise is more important to me than arctic temperatures)

Quote from: somebob on 06-March-07, 14:28:59
Hm... Are you sure those actually fit on the (non-platinum) P6N?
Looking at pictures of the motherboard, a 92mm vertical fan looks like it might run into the northbridge heatsink... Can anyone else confirm that the collermaster (RR-PCH-S9U1-GP) fits this motherboard?
Yes, it does... images of it installed in the thread linked above.

Memory Setting DRAM setting P6N sli platinum

i wonder what setting you would go for the highest cpu GHZ . i have set mine at these and it is 3 GHz , temp 28 degree Centigrade. my main concern is dram config at this stage. your input will be much appreciated
DRAM configuration
Options
1-tCL auto 1-6 mine is set at 6
2-tRCD auto 1-7 mine is set at 7
3-tRP auto 1-7 mine is set at 7
4-tRAS auto 1-31 mine is set at 20
5-tRRD auto 1-15 mine is set at auto
6-tRC auto 1-31 mine is set at auto
7-tWR auto 1-6 mine is set at auto
8-tWTR auto 1-15 mine is set at auto
9-tREF auto 7.6us 3.9us mine is set at auto
10-command per clock (CMD) auto 1T 2T mine is set at 2T
cpu volt 3 tick above default
memory volt 1.9
north bridge 1.5 i think not sure
south bridge default
MSI P6N SLI Platinum
Q6600 Go revision
MSI 256 graphic card ATI HD 2400
2 X 1GB crucial pc6400 CL6
mastercoll 500Watts
window xpsp2

Have you tried decreasing RAM speed?
Read the Posting Guide.

P6N SLI Platinum not booting after CPU change

I just upgraded the CPU in my machine with a P6N SLI Platinum motherboard from a E6700 to an E8500. I first upgraded the BIOS to 1.7 as the MSI page seemed to indicate that was a pre-req for this CPU. The machine was working fine for a day with the new CPU.
I changed the CPU in the machine and when I tried to boot, the lights on the motherboard came on as well as the fan, but no video or sound. In addition none of the diagnostic LEDs on the D Bracket light up. They had been previously working. Neither do the lights on my memory sticks light up.
I tried clearing the CMOS by hitting the switch but nothing. I am now going to try switching back CPUs but I don't have much hope that that is the problem given the diagnostic LEDs don't light. Does anyone have any suggestions as to a fix or is this motherboard fried?
P.S. Do you hit hte CMOS clear switch when the computer is off but the motherboard is charged? Or do you unplug the computer and wait for the internal orange light to go out as well too?

Quote from: Henry on 24-January-10, 11:41:19
What is the QC number (by the cpu socket) is 01, 02, or 03?
See this thread for more:
https://forum-en.msi.com/index.php/topic,123486.msg932471.html#msg932471
Ah. Given I bought my P6N SLI Platinum 3.5 years ago when they first came out I imagine mine is one of the older versions that doesn't support 45nm CPUs by default. Is there a photo somewhere showing where the QC number is located exactly on this MB? It's probably located under my huge CPU heatsink and I'm not going to remove that for a third time just to check.
I really wish the MSI CPU compatibility page mentioned that. It would save me a lot of time. It's not worth my time and effort to dismantle my PC, send them the MB and wait for them to send me back a compatible one.
I verified the BIOS upgrade by looking at the version number at startup and using CPUZ.

KT4 Ultra MB: Replacing the AGP 8X North Bridge Fan

Opened a friend's PC this afternoon to add an ethernet card and 1Gb memory and unsurprisingly found it was dust-bound. Whilst attemtping to clean the north bridge fan (45mm AGP 8X) I noticed it wasn't turning very freely - in fact it wouldn't turn at all when I powered it back up. Trouble is I haven't a clue how to remove it to replace it! This tiny fan appears to have two diagonally opposed spring-loaded pins, the other diagonal having two miniscule screws which just keep turning, but not releasing anything.
I realise this is a very old board, but can anyone suggest how to remove this fan? Just a thought; I imagine this fan has not been working properly (at all?) for sometime - so is a replacement vital?
Thanks for reading this.

You know when you have a toothache but you get to the dentist there's no sign of pain - well this chipset fan has started to work again!
Thanks eagle for your response - I'll get a passive heatsink and replace fan anyway - but what a nuisance to have to take MB out to do so!

E6600 stock sink, P6N SLI Plat.

ok so I built my system last week and its been up and running pretty well for 2 weeks. But I worry about dumb crap often and I noticed when I installed the heatsink, to get the 4 corner fasteners to fasten the board did bend a little bit pushing the socket portion of the board down. Just wondering if this is normal, if theres going to be a failure down the road, just dunno. My AMD 939s never did this.

I'm no expert, but I can say those things are way more flexible than i'd have thought... Had a problem with my P6N SLI-FI, had a sauder ball on one of the holes for my 775 socket.. Before I noticed it I managed to injure my thumb pressing down on the clamp, and the board took the abuse.. I wouldn't recommend but if it works don't mess with it?

North bridge noise

about the NEO2-S
this North bridges fan makes a hell of a noise, is he really nesseary if i don't overclock at all ? because in all later models MSI didn't put on a north birdge active cooling...
my machine is working intesively but no overclocking is being made.
i saw some threads about it here, but is there any official or something close to it from MSI saying this usless ( but sure is beautiful ) fan can be removed without any risk ?
thanks

remove the FAN only, don't remove the entire heatsink!
MSI won't give you any official answer. The heatsink without the fan is sufficient for normal cooling, provided your chassis is well air-ventilated.

Did all KT6-FISR have north bridge fan

I've just bought a KT6-FISR brand new. The first thing I've noticed is that the north bridge has a heat sink on it, but no fan. Neither is there a fan in the box.
Did all KT6-FISR have a north bridge fan as standard?
Is it fitted onto the heatsink on delivery, or does the user have to fit it?
I'm just wondering whether it has been taken from the box by 'someone' at the computer shop.

I depends on what MSI included in that particular bundle as it isn't the same for every board the SR/LSR I know probably wouldn't have it the FISR could have it though still doubtful only the top of the rung FIS2R would be the one that should have it no questions asked. Now the heatsink on fanless boards will do just fine the fan is tiny noisy at times, and isn't needed in fact I'm replacing my northbridge HSF with a Zalman fanless one.

P6n sli platinum + e4300 oc

I've read tons of posts on forums, but most just give FSB speeds, not actual numbers to use in setting the system clock, so how do we know what to use actually?
When do you use the 1:1 ratio? or any of the others if your motherboard BIOS doesn't let you manually set your memory multiplier?
I have the updated BIOS from MSI LiveUpdater and Web
I've Disabled the following in BIOS
Execute Bit Disable
Set Limit CPUID MaxVal to 3
HPET
CPU Smart FAN Target
D.O.T. Control
Intel EIST
All Spread Spectrum including:
CPU Spread Spectrum
PCIE Spread Spectrum
CPU/LDT Spread Spectrum
SATA Spread Spectrum
Questions
System Clock-Auto,Linked,Manual
Which is best and when to use for what?
I went to 1333 for a steady 3.0ghz overclock. Temps were below 40C
at idle and were 65C under full load.
Adjust CPU Ratio-To what?
Stock shows 9, but can go from 6-9 as well.
Last night I got to FSB1600
Mem 800
with 8x multiplier
very fast, but lost settings on re-boot. So basically unstable.
CPU Voltage-Try to not increase this by first overclocking as much as I
can on stock voltage, but if it becomes unstable or won't boot, I just increase it how I see fit based on stability right? I just want a good bootable computer to use daily for about 3 hours and 48hrs on weekends.
Not too much into games yet, but will once I get speakers and a better monitor. Mostly business/student needs.
Memory Voltage-Stock is: Timing 5-5-5-15
Voltage 1.8 - 2.0
I got this to 2.2 and everything was fine.
I can manually set it to 4-4-4-12 1T as well.
NB Voltage-I got this as high as I could and it worked great, I think it was 1.7.I heard on forums that the higher you go the better for overclocking. Plus it's got a fan on it stock and I don't care about noise fan at all.
SB Voltage-I got this to 1.6 and it was fine too. But it's not cooled so how much is too much?
FSB VTT Voltage-I read that if you go to 20% it stabilizes your rig when
you overclock, so I set it and it worked great.
My Setup
Intel Core 2 Duo E4300 Allendale 1.8GHz
ZALMAN CNPS9500 LED 92mm 2 Ball Cooling Fan with Heatsink
Arctic Silver 5 Thermal Compound
MSI P6N SLI Platinum 650i
G.SKILL 2GB (2 x 1GB) DDR2 800 (PC2 6400) Dual Channel
COOLER MASTER Centurion 5 CAC-T05 Case
Thermaltake TR2 ATX 430W
EVGA GeForce 8600GT 256MB GDDR3 PCI Express x16 Video Card
Western Digital Caviar SE 160GB 7200 RPM SATA 3.0Gb
$700 exactly with shipping from NEWEGG
PURE BUDGET BUILD

Hello welcome to the forum,
Quote
System Clock-Auto,Linked,Manual
Which is best and when to use for what?
I went to 1333 for a steady 3.0ghz overclock. Temps were below 40C
at idle and were 65C under full load.
System clock I believe is how the memory freq is generated. "Auto" would be automatic, "Linked" would be linked to FSB speed, "Manual" wold be manually setting the speed.
65c on the cores or the CPU? Because if it's the cores, drop down, anywhere over 60c and your CPU may start skipping cycles.
Quote
Adjust CPU Ratio-To what?
Stock shows 9, but can go from 6-9 as well.
Last night I got to FSB1600
Mem 800
with 8x multiplier
very fast, but lost settings on re-boot. So basically unstable.
CPU ratio is the multiplier in which you times the FSB speed to generate/set the CPU clock. E.g:
Code: [Select]
FSB of 100x10 (cpu ratio) = 1000MHz CPU core speed.
Quote
CPU Voltage-Try to not increase this by first overclocking as much as I
can on stock voltage, but if it becomes unstable or won't boot, I just increase it how I see fit based on stability right? I just want a good bootable computer to use daily for about 3 hours and 48hrs on weekends.
Not too much into games yet, but will once I get speakers and a better monitor. Mostly business/student needs.
yes only increase for stability, never increase because you think you may need too.
Quote
Memory Voltage-Stock is: Timing 5-5-5-15
Voltage 1.8 - 2.0
I got this to 2.2 and everything was fine.
I can manually set it to 4-4-4-12 1T as well.
They are fine, just don't go over 2.3v, your RAM chips will start to fry otherwise.
Quote
NB Voltage-I got this as high as I could and it worked great, I think it was 1.7.I heard on forums that the higher you go the better for overclocking. Plus it's got a fan on it stock and I don't care about noise fan at all.
No, wrong way to do it. Do it like CPU VCore, only increase when stability is needed. Also monitor temperatures of NB as much as your CPU. Fan speeds don't bother me either, but temps do! Watch them at all times when overclocking.
Quote
SB Voltage-I got this to 1.6 and it was fine too. But it's not cooled so how much is too much?
Only increase if you need to, the SB core is usually the last voltage that needs increasing.
Quote
FSB VTT Voltage-I read that if you go to 20% it stabilizes your rig when
you overclock, so I set it and it worked great.
It's the voltage you supply to the FSB bus, too much and you will kill the FSB and your mainboard will be a fancy paper weight. Only increase when stability is needed, just like every other voltage.

MSI 890FXA-GD65 North Bridge Temperatures

Hi there I have recently purchased the MSI 890FXA-GD65 for a new build. The thing that suprises me is that the temps on the North Bridge are very random. It normaly stays in the 55 C- 65 C range, but it is constantly jumping up and down in a matter of seconds. For example it goes from 58C to 65C in a second and then could drop to 55C the next second and after that could jump to 70C and it just continues playing. I am wondering if anyone else has the same issue with the readings and what could be the cause of ti?

I am waiting for a memory at the moment. However the airflow in my case is more than adequate, GPU idles at 30C and does not exceed 50 under load with the fan at 25% of the max speed. The CPU is well cooled with no fans on the heatsink (Thermalright Black 120), idling at 25C and going to 45C under load and overclocked. The RAM modules are very cool on touch as well and my MB shows constant temperature of 28C - 30C. I think its something wrong with the diode, because there is no way that the temp would jump from 55 to 70 in a second and the next second to come back down to 60. I was just wondering if someone else has similar thing with their mobo. I have got 3 year warranty on it so I am not that worried about it, plus it is not crashing or anything, its just the readings.
P.S. I forgot to mention that this is not detected as NB on any program. Instead on AIDA64 shows up as AUX temperature, and on HW Monitor comes up as TMPIN1, but I read it corresponds to NB usually. Plus this is the warmest part on touch.

MSI P6N-SLI Platinum Multi-gpu enabling

Owners of the P6N SLI Platinum mobos. I'm having trouble Figuring out how to enable my two EVGA 256-P2-N636-AR GeForce 7950GT in SLI mode. The manual I have doesn't coincide with what my system is telling me. Anybody out there please shed some light on my predicament. thank you. >:(
my system is as follows
1: Intel Core 2 Duo E6700 Conroe 2.66GHz 4M shared L2 Cache
2: MSI P6N SLI Platinum LGA 775 NVIDIA nForce 650i SLI
3: Kingston HyperX 2GB (2 x 1GB) 240-Pin DDR2 SDRAM DDR2 800
4: 2 EVGA 256-P2-N636-AR GeForce 7950GT 256MB
5: system drive - WD Caviar 160GB 8MB SATA 3
6: backup drive - Seagate Barracuda 320GB 16MB SATA3
7: Windows Xp home sp2
8: PSU Antec Neo HE 500

read Moan Guide 1st and provide full system specification including PSU details(look over PSU sticker for them)
made sure JPW1 is connected,
install both VGAs:
made sure SLI Bridge is connected between them,
made sure addiction power cable is connected to each VGA,
connect monitor cable to the 1st VGA(located in the 1st PCI-E x16 slot)
go in BIOS and check for SLI related options, if exist ensure that they are configured property,
install latest chipset drivers for your board from Nvidia: http://www.nvidia.com/content/drivers/drivers.asp
install latest VGA drivers from Nvidia(94.24): http://www.nvidia.com/object/winxp_2k_94.24.html
type in "run":
rundll32.exe nvcpl.dll,LaunchMultiGpuApplet /* click OK or hit {ENTER} key when its done */
and Enable SLI from there, and config "OK":
to verify that SLI is functional correctly get a Everest:
http://www.lavalys.com/beta/everestultimate_build_1059_welo4kjhnxa.zip
navigate to GPU page and check it:
for SLI troubleshooting and guides look here:
http://www.hardforum.com/showthread.php?t=938853

P6N - SLI - FI NB (North Bridge) Heatsink Wobble (Ok)

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