P6N SLI Platinum, no post (also!)

Hey guys.. I think I checked everything, but want to make sure.
Relatively new P6N (bought it, didn't have processor, stored it for the last 6 months) Platinum board. Finally got the CPU and Memory today (info below). Plugging it in, and I get.. nothing. No post, no beeps (with connected speaker), all lights on D-bracket *OFF*, all lights on keyboard *ON*. All fans come on as well. Both yellow/orange LED and the green LED between PCIs come on.
I slowly disconnected everything, and even ONLY with the board and CPU (no vid card and RAM, only front-panel and D-Bracket connected), still same result. Now, I'm thinking it MAY be the CPU, however, I would expect to still get ALL RED on the D-Bracket as per the manual. I don't have ready access to another 775 processor.
Items:
CPU - Intel E8400 (Wolfdale)
RAM - Corsair XMS2 (model "TWIN2X2048-6400C4") I've heard there was issues with this, is why I turned the board on without ANY RAM. Yes, it would not have posted, but I would/should have gotten a signal on the D-Bracket!
PSU - Antec NeoHE (430W, 3 12V rails, +3.3V 22A; +5V 14A; +12V 16A / rail; -12V 0.8A; +5Vsb 2.5A)
The only thing I have left to do is to try it outside the case. However, I'm posting here now in case anyone sees anything obvious I missed. I actually HOPE it's something I can do here - even if it NEEDS a bios update, I would still expect the D-Bracket to give me all reds ("The System will hang here if the CPU is damaged or not installed properly.") However, I'm afraid to turn the board on without a CPU. (Is that safe? Dangerous? I was iffy about not having the RAM in..)
Thanks all!
Mike.

Quote from: Jack the Newbie on 27-February-08, 04:18:29
The options usually change with the CPU that is installed.
Not sure, if the problem is only the current BIOS or if it is your CPU after all. It is hard to say at this point.
Eh, I'm hoping it's not the CPU. I can't verify if I get different options with the E8400 only because I get the same result (after updating to 1.5 and 1.6b3 BIOS revs as I had originally - everything powrs on, no D-LEDs (all off, NOT all red) and keyboard LEDs all on. So I don't even get the change to get into the BIOS to verify. :/ I'm sure that if I COULD, I could tweak the settings to at least get a stable system until I could use the processor at it's fullest, but.. as it is now, it's a nice lump of silicon.
Quote from: Jack the Newbie on 27-February-08, 04:18:29
This guy....
https://forum-en.msi.com/index.php?topic=114440.0
... was apparently able to get an E8400 working on a P6N SLI(-FI). It has the same model name & PCB Version as the P6N SLI Platinum.
I don't know, the best thing is probably to wait for a BIOS Update. Can you test you processor on another system that already supports Wolfdale CPUs?
I'm waiting. It's impressive - the P6N, even with the cheapest 1.6GHz Celeron processor is really nice. I won't have another LGA775 system to test with for another month. Hopefully, they'll have another beta or have released an update by then..
Thanks for your help, of course!
Mike.

Similar Messages

DOA? P6N SLI Platinum wont POST

Hello,
I recently bought a P6N SLI Platinum, and it won't POST. The screen flickers with the graphic card's POST, but then goes blank.
After cycling through some steps, the 4 LEDs of the self-diagnostic PCI slot cover are indicated as:
GR
GG
Which seems to indicate the board is getting hung up in the "Floppy Controller initiate" stage. Seems weird to me, both to get hung up at that stage and to have no POST on the screen before then. I unplugged the floppy cable, pushed the "CMOS reset" switch, but on switching back on the same symptoms persist.
I've no hard drive plugged in, just a Memtest CD in a DVD drive plugged onto the IDE. The CD and DVD drive are both good.
Is this a DOA board? What else should I try?
Set-up is:
P6N SLI Platinum
2.4GHz Intel Core 2 Duo E6600 Conroe
PCP&C 610W, 5V@30A/12V@49A PSU
4 x G.Skill 1Gb DDR2 800 (PC2 6400)
XFX GeForce *600GT PCI Express X16 video card
Thanks,
Ian S

Am still having issues. I decided that the problem was my display, so bought a new one. I managed to get Vista 64 to install, but the screen kept going blank. Tried a different screen, same problem. Then after a restart it wouldn't POST again. So I pulled everything out except the CPU, cooling and little MOBO display LED thing, and reseated the graphics card. System still won't boot, but shows intermittent displays on the 4 LEDs. First it got hung up on:
RR
RG
which indicates "Initializing Video Interface". I power-cycled again, and it then got hung at:
RG
RG
which now indicates "Testing Base and Extended Memory". So I power-cycle again, and now it won't show any LEDs at all!
I was wondering whether the MOBO or graphics card is at fault. But considering the inconsistent symptoms shown by the MOBO indicators, I'm inclined to suspect the MOBO.
Is it me, or is this motherboard a piece of ****? I can't work out what the problem is. Not sure what else to try. I haven't flashed any BIOS, done any OC'ing, so I do expect a much more reliable MOBO than this at the price they charged for it.
Open to suggestions.
Set-up is:
P6N SLI Platinum
2.4GHz Intel Core 2 Duo E6600 Conroe
PCP&C 610W, 5V@30A/12V@49A PSU
4 x G.Skill 1Gb DDR2 800 (PC2 6400)
XFX GeForce 8600GT PCI Express X16 video card
Thanks,
Ian S

P6N SLI Platinum - Not Posting

Dbracket LEDs showing - Initializing faulty drive controller
LED 1/3/4 - Green
-- LED 2 - Red
This is a brand new system. Would adding another floppy drive help to solve this problem? Or is the built-in floppy controller busted?
CPU - E6600 Conroe 2.4GHz
RAM - G.Skill x4 1 GB ddr2 800
Vid Card - BFG Tech 7950GT 512
PSU - Antec 550w trio
Unable to pass post and we have no visual on the monitor. Please advise with regards to further action to take. I oft see suggestions of removing RAM and booting with a single stick. Is this advisable towards troubleshooting? Or is this something that isn't passed previous to the floppy controller check that is coming up faulty? Thanks in advance.
Edit: Attempted to boot with different 1 stick of RAM variations. On one attempt recieved brief life on the screen as it toggled between analog and stereo and was then unresponsive after a few seconds along with each subsequent attempt.

Quote from: BOSSKILLER on 03-June-07, 11:38:46
so with one memory stick system booting normal?
No with 4, or with just 1 of the 4 sticks (placement being in the DIMM slot nearest the CPU) our results are the same as my initial post. We have nothing visable on the screen, just black, all connections were secure, power to cpu, 24 pin in correctly, all we ever recieve is 1/3/4 green on the LED and 2 red denoting floppy disk problems. We can't even get into bios as we have nothing on the screen.
Also, I should note that we are imaging a hd on the computer next to it and are swapping the monitor when we are booting up the new system so the monitor does in fact work.

MSI P6N Sli Platinum won't Post with E8500

Ok, I've been pulling my hair out on this one off and on for a couple of weeks, and I figured I'd finally just post here and hope for some advice.
I recently bought a C2D E8500 CPU on newegg to replace the E6420 I currently have running in my system. The motherboard is a P6N SLI Platinum with the v1.7 Bios. The problem is that whenever I swap the E8500 in for the E6420 the computer powers on, fans start spinning, and then it just sits. No beeps, no lights, nothing. When I put the E6420 back in the whole thing boots up just fine. I've cleared the CMOS two different ways (removing the battery and hitting the CMOS reset button), and nothing seems to help. I have tested the CPU in another machine, and it works just fine. The MSI tech support has told me that the problem shouldn't be happening, and has suggested that I RMA the board to them. I'd rather not be without my computer for 3-4 weeks, so I figured I'd post here and see if anyone had any advice before I pull the whole system apart and send the MB in.
PSU is a 700W OCZ
Graphics Card is EVGA 9800GT 512MB
Ram is 4GB AData
Let me know if anyone sees any obvious problems.
Tim

I please have a look here:
https://forum-en.msi.com/index.php?topic=123486.msg932471#msg932471
Sending the board to MSI to be serviced is probably your only option to solve this.

P6N SLI Platinum random shutdowns

System:
MSI P6N SLI Platinum MoBo
Intel E6750 CPU
Etasis 850W PSU
Corsair CM2X1024-6400C4 RAM (using only 1 stick while troubleshooting)
MSI NX8600GTS GPU
OK, this is a strange one. I put my new system together and everything seemed to be working fine. POST looked OK, and I was even able to install Windows. Everything seemed stable.
One thing that troubled me was that the lights on the D-Bracket were all red AFTER POST. In other words everything was working, but the LEDs were showing CPU problem. I tried everything I could think of to get the lights to go away, but nothing worked. I disconnected all HDs, DVD, and floppy drives. I reset the BIOS, and reseated the CPU. I tried putting RAM in different slots, tried both sticks solo, but nothing made any difference.
It was getting late, so I decided to go to bed and run memtest86+ over night. When I got up this morning the system had powered itself down. When I turned it on again it powered itself off within a minute of being turned on. This was with all the drives hooked up, so I disconnected everything and now it's been sitting happily in the BIOS for over 30 minutes.
So at this point, it seems like it could be a power supply issue. Unfortunately, I don't have another PSU with an 8-pin CPU connector that I can try in this system. Any thoughts? Next steps to try?
Other possibly useful facts:
When I boot into the BIOS the D-Bracket lights show #3 green, and all others red, indicating "initializing keyboard controller". But when I boot past the BIOS to a CDROM or Windows, they show all red, indicating "CPU problem"
The system makes a brief chirp the POST screen. It doesn't sound like a beep code to me, and I've heard some boards will do an "everything's OK" beep like this. But it could be important so there it is.
Although it seems happier with all the drives disconnected (indicating a PSU problem), it still shows all red LEDs on the D-Bracket (indicating a CPU problem).
This is not the first system I've built, and I was fairly careful about putting everything together the right way. The only goof I know of is that at one point I was unplugging and re-plugging things and I ran the system for a while without connecting PCIE power to the GPU. Could that have broken something?
Any help would be much appreciated.
-Steve

UPDATE: I tried hooking up my old 400W PSU with 20-pin ATX and 4-pin CPU connectors (apparently this is OK to do) but there was no change. Still four red LEDs.
I also tried removing the PCI-E GPU and booted it up with an antique PCI VGA card. Again, no change. Maybe I really did get a bad CPU?
Any other ideas, before I try to return my CPU?

[P6N SLI Platinum] black screen NO BOOT after D-bracket replug [RMA-SOLVED]

Quick setup specs;
P6N SLI Platinum
E6600 (box/stock 2400mhz basic)
2x 1Gb DDR2 6400 Gskill HZ
Sapphire ATI X1600Pro (PCI-e basic)
Aerocool Zero DBA 620W
(2 HDs sata, 2 Hds pata, 2 optical pata at first -all OK at first, disconnected after, so irrelevant here ,( )
(XP Pro clean new install from start)
I tried to check the forum old posts before trying to write that new one, but could not find any really related totally adequate posts so far (or i missed them, sorry if so, then -?). I could already find very useful informations on first aid usual 'rebooting' procedures to follow with minimum new boot configurations, d-bracket new LED signals etc. But so far no luck, all same, nothing better, nothing cured here for the stuation here. ,(( Also excuse my english if not perfect, i am not english either. ,(
VERY bad & sad problem here... ,(((( :
All was working perfectly great during 5 days.. the P6N SLI platinum install went GREAT initially (as normal, not a first pc built, all normally happening, so far so good, etc).... all hardwares compatible together at first (dedicated ATX 'full' 8x8 pins connector too for the cpu only for ex -all working perfect at first try. quick tensions 5V/12V under msi dual core control tool perfect too etc), was great easy going/ great strong ultra-stability feeling on the hardware side.. i was just now concentrating on the software side (no special BIOS tweaks even attempted so far, all on basics-normal e6600/ddr2 auto-settings, apart at the end ddr2 quick test -when problem occured- on 450(900?)Mhz at 2.1V, far far easy under its possible specs max anyway.. and had been working perfect for 3 days with that little ddr2 boost try -no time for special bios further tweakings now, etc), reinstalling and transfering/reorganizing slowly my necessary files/hds/softwares from old to new setup, no oc, nothing special tempted (i was planning oc, new cpu more suited fan/silver6 etc only for the end..), LAN file sharing setup done, Realtek audio setup test done, etc ; installation had been so far one of the quickest and problem free ever... explaining maybe also my fatal lack of cautioun for just (too much) 3 sec in the end after 5/- days of perfect working new ring going on.. ,((( :
At first, i also tried to immediately install the D-Bracket too to check possible hardware install problems -very useful feature i of course thought too..and wanted to try too, "in case of"..- (installing it from quick reading of the printed manual..with no colour pic coding inside..and quick error coming from there thereafter with an initial mismatch usb/jbd1 inverted plugs connections.. *both* having the exact same pins numbers and dispositions, beeing side by side on mainboard layout.. and so able to connect both headers indifferently.. so i did not see it immediately (( .. and no way to see it otherwise as such, anyway.. ,( ), just to be sure all was ok. I noticed that LED were of course, never lightning (not normal).. but as EVERYTHING else was working fine (GLAN, sound, etc etc).. i did not bother more than that -- error checking not necessary.
Till that fatal clumsy day i wanted suddenly to.. check the D-bracket too. ((((
All was working well, XP pro opened for hours as usual etc..
i had not yet totally finished to install the motherboard in the pc-case (always on desk, free in sight..)... so i could always see the connections on it. ... and i noticed that ... the colour headers codes were NOT matching (usb=yellow..).. i had just stupidly initially badly connected the D-Bracket jdb1/usb adjacent plugs (inverting them), so... And still, all had ever worked perfect.. except the D-Bracket, of course, was sending back no lights then, obviously.. so i did the fatal error.. confident all was stable enough and strong if even that initial plug error had had no consequences at all.. i did the fatal bad move to try to UNPLUG the D-Bracket connectors and put them back in right orders WITHOUT switching OFF the power supply so... like an hot USB plug, sort of, in a way. fatal error.. :( :( :(
As soon as i began to remove the usb/jdb1 connectors and put them back in normal order... the system suddenly SHUT DOWN ... no special bad noise, no special smell.. just sudden SHUT DOWN.
From there.. impossible ever to boot back again the so far perfectly working machine (((((((((((( , always same till now :
i switch on the power supply.. orange led appears on motherboard (ok)... i switch on the motherboard.. green led on motherboard appears (ok)... CPU fan begins (ok), video fan begins (ok) .... and... NOTHING.. total black video screen. no more even possibility to see the BIOS. :( total dead startup .. and the fans are going on eternally, blocked eternally in that inital startup with leds on too (no sudden shut down after a few seconds.. just.. nothing)... :(
Suprem irony.. the D-bracket LED seems to 'work' now.. "of course". Just the PC no more booting at all ^. Only thing is that only green LEDs are appearing, no red ones... simply the sequence, from start and never changing :
1. GREEN 2. GREEN
3. GREEN 4. (---) (not red, just nothing -?)
If i look in manual, it means "Testing RTC (real time clock)". I don't know exactly what it means *here*, but sounds to me it is the most basic initial first BIOS checking.. and BIOS can't be reached for even that so ; BIOS fried???? :( :(
I tried every 'standard' things recommanded usually here in older posts, for new boots recovery attempts thereafter in such 'boot errors' situations (clear cmos button pushed in every possible ways -quick, long, quick etc..-, removing little by little everything but the very minimal least energy taxing setup; keyboard, cpu, video, motherboard; 1 ddr2 nearest cpu slot.. point).. NOTHING. Worst, i tried to boot with one of those elements missing.. exact same D-Bracket lightning from start to.. eternally (123 GREEN 4-nothing). Even tried to remove the little (cmos?) KTS lithium battery for a few hours -that could work sometimes with the old already ultra-sensitive amd/nforce2 chipset bioses problems, so i tried there too-?-; same 3 green lights and fans running and nothing else happening from there.. ((
Always the same; total dead boot as above. black screen. no possible access to even bios panel. ,(((
So my desperate questions, now: of course, the origin is obvious here; all happened "by my fault" when i tried 'too quickly' to 'hot-plugging' replace correctly the D-BRACKET plugs *without* switching off the power supply... all shut down suddenly when i put back correctly the usb& jdb1 headers... :( ;
- do you think there could be any possible last HOPES to recover the situation that i had missed (a well known situation in such d-bracket handling 'common' (?) connection error, a simple trick to try i had missed ??)
- do you think i FRIED something in the process on the motherboard ?? :( :(
- do you think it is 'only' the BIOS (fried????) ?? :( :(
- do you think i could have fried a specifical external key component in the process (not necessarily motherboard) : ddr2 modules, cpu, video card????? :( :(
- is my only solution is to send the motherboard to RMA (no other ways now) ???
please, don't hesitate to give me any possible hints to try to avoid the RMA process.
can i avoid it, right now?
is that possible to fry an whole board just with such a D-Bracket 'hot plug switch' (on a so far perfectly working -light- setup - no oc, little video card, etc) ???? :( :(
That is the only C2D Intel/ddr2 motherboard i have here around. No possibility to test elements by elements for precise error checking (cpu, ddr2 modules, video card or powersupply).
Only things i could check so far are;
- the power supply (aerocool 620W zeroDBA) ;
i tested it back on my old amd xp-m nforce2 setup.. always working apparently. NOT 'fried' so, apparently. but no way of course to test for exemple the special 8x8 (or 8x4) Intel ATX cpu connector on old xp-m motherboard. But power supply NOt fried at least, apparently -?
- the video card.
no way for me to really test the pci-e card on other motherboard around but.. i tried a very old PCI VGA card.. that one works on old setup.. and on P6N, no effect, doesn't improve the situation. So, not sure the new pci-e video card isn't fried.. but a new video card doesn't correct the dead boot problem.. (
No way for me to test the ddr2 or CPU directly though.
Do you think DDR2 or CPU could have been fried in the process too ???
or just, as i fear anyway, 'simply', the motherboard BIOS fried -??? :-(
Really, thx for any suggestions..
if there could be an 'hidden' trick i did not try yet to try to recover the (initially working perfectly!!! (( ) setup, WITHOUT engaging the motherboard RMA process (at least 2 or 3 weeks lost here to wait the return..online store etc..)....
please, suggest me.. ,((
i am *really* very sad of that stupid clumsy idea to want to 'enable' the D-Bracket.. all was working great so far.. and i lost all with just that stupid idea to try an hot plug bracket reconnection without switching off the power supply it seems.. can it be possible,sigh?? all seemed so stable before that, that i.. just lost my usual cautious just 3 sec too long it seems... :-(
Thanks in advance
hoping post not too long too, but i tried to expose the situation as precisely as possible; first time i ever had such a problem with a motherboard/system install.. that is quiet ironical knowing it was also the best and quickest/easiest easy going new built i ever had so far too.. till then ,( .. and all came from the 'helper' d-bracket 'luxury second hand possible boot helper diagnostic tool' checking in the end too, here.. really hoping i can avoid an RMA process.. and no other hardware elements (apart the motherboard?) could have been damaged in the process ? ,(((

hi, thx a lot for the quick answer. sorry for the length indeed (i did not know exactly how to describe the situation.. without omitting any later possibly important details).
Alas, i already tried that many times in following interesting asnwers on similar problems in old posts here; did NOTHING. ,(
But after your post, i tried it again, and removed for the remaining *hours* (6/8h?) the cmos battery as suggested again *too* so -pushed again the clear cmos button etc when battery out, then when in again, then replugging the powersupply etc; NOTHING better alas too. always same, no boot, black screen, no bios. ,(
Problem always the same, to sum up, for clarity:
power supply on => orange motherboard led is lightning up, motherboard on => green motherboard led is lightning up, cpu/video/case fans are working up as normal and.. that's all. nothing else forever. black screen. no signal. not a single chance to get again the bios setup screen.
another detail i omitted, maybe; keyboard lights are all lightnng up too.. and stay blocked in that state too. tested with 2 different keyboards, same. to shut down the leds, fans etc, only one solution, shut down the power supply button directly, at that stage.
right now, i test on barebone minimal system as recommanded too;
cpu, 1 dimm (closest cpu slot), video, keyboard. all rest disconnected.
i of course tried to reset the cmos with the 'magical red button' many times before, with power supply cable plugged out, pushed the button trying almost every possible way so far (quick, long, long sequences, short sequences etc etc)... changed NOTHING so far -is that thing working?? ,(. and right now, same after hours with cmos battery removed too. ,(
the d-bracket leds are always (now it is correctly plugged..) :
123 GREEN 4 (nothing)
"Testing RTC (real time clock)"
another 'interesting' detail is that; those leds are appearing IMMEDIATELY after the motherboard is switched on, from start (green led appearing on P6N). and it is staying as such till the end. nothing else. i tried to connect also the case speaker ; no bips, no sound signals at all too.
I also remind the system was WORKING like a dream during 5 days *before* i had that sudden TOTAL boot problem.... AND i touched almost nothing in the bios too all along, for initial security reasons too.. (i was concentrating on the software installs anyway right now, NOT on the oc side..). The ddr2 quick little change i did was also the ONLY change i tempted to simply test quickly some setting i already saw working without problem with that P6N and that kind of ram.. and it was working without problem so far too, so.. all the time idem. And it had been perfectly working for 3 days as such untouched from there; no problems at all (those memory modules have been seen on that motherboard largely at those specs, why i did that quick test anyway.. far under their possible max -micron chips). it was even working so well i forgot to put the setting back as default after that quick ram test.. so much it was stable too (even if i had not time to do real memtest test on that one - i did for many hours with the initial automatical default settings too, to check the ram quality, was perfect for many hours, so ok too, no bad ram initially too-; was so stable for all my XP software installs operations etc.. that i forgot it thereafter, to be true..why it stayed like that till that moment (incidently).. but i preferred to mention it 'just in case' though, yes. i also did not push at all the dimm voltages in the process, it was always far inside the specs at 2.05V to be exact -usual for that ram too up to those numbers easy for it. i did not push the ram voltages either so..).
The problem ONLY appears when i wanted to unplug the *initially* badly connected D-bracket headers so (inverted headers.. but that caused NO problems either so far too for the system stability.. only the LEDs were of course not working so far..) : i did the error to NOT switch off the power supply. :(
*then* immediately the system shut down... and above situation appeared. ,(
BUT all was working perfect before.. ram setting included so. ,((
So my simple questions now too ;
- do you know what means *exactly* the d-bracket message 'Testing RTC" (123 GREEN, 4 nothing).. initial bios problem, isn't it?? other ways to recover it now?? ,((
- is it a WELL KNOWN PROBLEM when we try to disconnect and replug too hastily the d-bracket headers without switching off the power supply (*my* main erorr here, it seems :( :( ) ????
... and of course, do you think it could have *fried* another key component (cpu, ram -?? why i reminded the setting, just in case-?-, video card? .. ) with that d-bracket initial disconnection error ... ,(
as i said, i have no secondary c2d/ddr2 motherboard here : no way to test the cpu and ddr2 modules on another motherboard to be sure too here. :( i absolutely can't know if they have been damaged or not, here.. :( :(
any other idea for the motherboard itself though ??? ,(
once again, thx a lot for any suggestions and precisions on that problem (is that a COMMON well known problem with the d-bracket, when we unplug and replug it without extrem care like i did -my main inattention error it seems.. mainly because all was so stable before too.. ((( - without shutting down the power supply/system FIRST ???? can it be possible 'only' that shut down all the system??? (( )
thx in advance again +

P6n sli platinum + e4300 oc

I've read tons of posts on forums, but most just give FSB speeds, not actual numbers to use in setting the system clock, so how do we know what to use actually?
When do you use the 1:1 ratio? or any of the others if your motherboard BIOS doesn't let you manually set your memory multiplier?
I have the updated BIOS from MSI LiveUpdater and Web
I've Disabled the following in BIOS
Execute Bit Disable
Set Limit CPUID MaxVal to 3
HPET
CPU Smart FAN Target
D.O.T. Control
Intel EIST
All Spread Spectrum including:
CPU Spread Spectrum
PCIE Spread Spectrum
CPU/LDT Spread Spectrum
SATA Spread Spectrum
Questions
System Clock-Auto,Linked,Manual
Which is best and when to use for what?
I went to 1333 for a steady 3.0ghz overclock. Temps were below 40C
at idle and were 65C under full load.
Adjust CPU Ratio-To what?
Stock shows 9, but can go from 6-9 as well.
Last night I got to FSB1600
Mem 800
with 8x multiplier
very fast, but lost settings on re-boot. So basically unstable.
CPU Voltage-Try to not increase this by first overclocking as much as I
can on stock voltage, but if it becomes unstable or won't boot, I just increase it how I see fit based on stability right? I just want a good bootable computer to use daily for about 3 hours and 48hrs on weekends.
Not too much into games yet, but will once I get speakers and a better monitor. Mostly business/student needs.
Memory Voltage-Stock is: Timing 5-5-5-15
Voltage 1.8 - 2.0
I got this to 2.2 and everything was fine.
I can manually set it to 4-4-4-12 1T as well.
NB Voltage-I got this as high as I could and it worked great, I think it was 1.7.I heard on forums that the higher you go the better for overclocking. Plus it's got a fan on it stock and I don't care about noise fan at all.
SB Voltage-I got this to 1.6 and it was fine too. But it's not cooled so how much is too much?
FSB VTT Voltage-I read that if you go to 20% it stabilizes your rig when
you overclock, so I set it and it worked great.
My Setup
Intel Core 2 Duo E4300 Allendale 1.8GHz
ZALMAN CNPS9500 LED 92mm 2 Ball Cooling Fan with Heatsink
Arctic Silver 5 Thermal Compound
MSI P6N SLI Platinum 650i
G.SKILL 2GB (2 x 1GB) DDR2 800 (PC2 6400) Dual Channel
COOLER MASTER Centurion 5 CAC-T05 Case
Thermaltake TR2 ATX 430W
EVGA GeForce 8600GT 256MB GDDR3 PCI Express x16 Video Card
Western Digital Caviar SE 160GB 7200 RPM SATA 3.0Gb
$700 exactly with shipping from NEWEGG
PURE BUDGET BUILD

Hello welcome to the forum,
Quote
System Clock-Auto,Linked,Manual
Which is best and when to use for what?
I went to 1333 for a steady 3.0ghz overclock. Temps were below 40C
at idle and were 65C under full load.
System clock I believe is how the memory freq is generated. "Auto" would be automatic, "Linked" would be linked to FSB speed, "Manual" wold be manually setting the speed.
65c on the cores or the CPU? Because if it's the cores, drop down, anywhere over 60c and your CPU may start skipping cycles.
Quote
Adjust CPU Ratio-To what?
Stock shows 9, but can go from 6-9 as well.
Last night I got to FSB1600
Mem 800
with 8x multiplier
very fast, but lost settings on re-boot. So basically unstable.
CPU ratio is the multiplier in which you times the FSB speed to generate/set the CPU clock. E.g:
Code: [Select]
FSB of 100x10 (cpu ratio) = 1000MHz CPU core speed.
Quote
CPU Voltage-Try to not increase this by first overclocking as much as I
can on stock voltage, but if it becomes unstable or won't boot, I just increase it how I see fit based on stability right? I just want a good bootable computer to use daily for about 3 hours and 48hrs on weekends.
Not too much into games yet, but will once I get speakers and a better monitor. Mostly business/student needs.
yes only increase for stability, never increase because you think you may need too.
Quote
Memory Voltage-Stock is: Timing 5-5-5-15
Voltage 1.8 - 2.0
I got this to 2.2 and everything was fine.
I can manually set it to 4-4-4-12 1T as well.
They are fine, just don't go over 2.3v, your RAM chips will start to fry otherwise.
Quote
NB Voltage-I got this as high as I could and it worked great, I think it was 1.7.I heard on forums that the higher you go the better for overclocking. Plus it's got a fan on it stock and I don't care about noise fan at all.
No, wrong way to do it. Do it like CPU VCore, only increase when stability is needed. Also monitor temperatures of NB as much as your CPU. Fan speeds don't bother me either, but temps do! Watch them at all times when overclocking.
Quote
SB Voltage-I got this to 1.6 and it was fine too. But it's not cooled so how much is too much?
Only increase if you need to, the SB core is usually the last voltage that needs increasing.
Quote
FSB VTT Voltage-I read that if you go to 20% it stabilizes your rig when
you overclock, so I set it and it worked great.
It's the voltage you supply to the FSB bus, too much and you will kill the FSB and your mainboard will be a fancy paper weight. Only increase when stability is needed, just like every other voltage.

P6N SLI Platinum - E4300 multiplier drops to 6x

Hi all, first post. Did some searches on here and can't find an answer, also this is a pretty new mobo.
CPU-Z shows my cpu at 1.8ghz @ 9x multiplier, but every few seconds it switches to 1.2ghz @ 6x multiplier. This sounds like a speedstep issue, but I disabled EIST in the BIOS, and all spread spectrum options. In windows power management I set it to Always On. I see a lot of talk about C1E but don't see any option regarding that setting in my BIOS.
Is this normal behavior for the E4300? I'm hesitant to start OC'ing when I'm having issues at stock clock.
Thanks for any ideas.
My setup:
P6N SLI Platinum / E4300 / Scythe Ninja / Antec Trio 650 / 2x1 GB Corsair XMS2 6400 / 2x WD 160gb - RAID 0 / Leadtek 8800gts 640

Quote from: Maesus on 06-March-07, 09:06:11
how about locking it to 6x and ramp up the FSB much higher?
Would there be an advantage to that versus a 333fsb x9 (3ghz) OC? I didn't get the best ram in the world because I wasn't looking for crazy speeds. The PC-6400 Corsair ($160 w/rebate) I have is rated at 5-5-5-18 at 1.8v. I have it at 5-5-5-12-2T at 1.9v. I'm not uber-conversant on memory timings but when I set it on 1T windows crashed immediately. Anandtech mentioned that changing to 1T had little to no real world performance improvements so I can live with it.
Currently I have the fsb at 333 (1333 in BIOS setting) and DRAM at 333 (666 in BIOS) so I have a 1:1 ratio which I understand is preferable. The MSI Dual Core utility reports that my CPU is running about 7 degrees cooler than the System temperature. Is that possible, or do I have a jumper setting mixed up somewhere...

PSU support for P6N Sli Platinum

Hi,
This is my first post. I'm about to buy the P6N Sli Platinum mobo, and wonder if my current PSU would support it. It has the following specs:
Sirtec HPC 420-302 DF (420 Watt)
+ 5volt    40amp    220W
+ 3.3volt    30amp    220W
+ 12volt    18amp    218W
- 5volt    0.3amp    1.5W
- 12volt    0.8amp    10W
+ 5volt vsb    2amp    10W
It has a 20-pin ATX connector and additionally a 4-pin connector, I believe this is a +12V CPU-power connector, althought I'am not completely sure it's not an additional connector to connect to modern 24-pin motherboards.
The mobo-manual says:
"This connector allows you to connect an ATX 24-pin power supply.
You may use the 20-pin ATX power supply as you like. If you’d like
to use the 20-pin ATX power supply, please plug your power supply
along with pin 1 & pin 13 (refer to the image at the right hand).
There is also a foolproof design on pin 11, 12, 23 & 24 to avoid
wrong installation"
However, it also mentions the ATX12V power connector, which is 8-pin. Can I connect my 4 pin connector here? Anybody with the same motherboard?

Don't bother about the 300Watt but try to think in amperage (especially on the +12V-rail).
Example:
CPU: 7-8A
HDD: 2A (x2=4A)
Mainboard: 0.5A
3 fans: 0.5A
optical drive: 1A
Now if you take these numbers and add them together you will have about 13-14A not including your graphic card. Even if it would need only 50W (50W/12V~4A) you would already be at the very limit of the +12V-rail.
Even if these numbers above are a little to high and 11-12A seems more realistic (which I wouldn't count on) 6A would be left for your graphic card (72W) and you would still be at the limit of your power supply.
This is just a little example to illustrate the importance of paying attention to the +12V-rail. Maybe 18A is just enough to keep you system running, but I wouldn't bet on it. And to have the PSU working at its limit all the time is usually not a good idea. Remember that the maximum power of the +12V-rail will only be 18Ax12V=216W.

Is there a new bios coming for P6N SLI Platinum for E8400 ?

Hi everyone,
( My system specs are in the signature )
I have been thinking to upgrade my cpu to E8400, but after some time passing through the forums, internet and asking some of my friends, I have decided not to. This is because I have seen many people frustrated and trying get their E8xxx's working on their moboard with endless efforts because of the wrong information given in the CPU support list of P6N-SLI Platinum. Yet, I have seen that only a few people have managed to get it work but with risky, manual adjustments.
So here is my question, will there be a new bios for P6N SLI Platinum that will make E8xxx series post without any adjustments for the users that want to stick with their P6N SLI Plat.?

Please ask here:
http://ocss.msi.com.tw/

P6N SLI Platinum Won't Load Vista or XP

I trying to load an OS on a new build, but have run into an issue. The build went well, but the OS won't load.
While trying to load Vista (32bit) it says "Loading Operating System" and the progress bar goes all the way to the end but then never gets any further. It just sits there.
So, not being familiar with Vistas load I thought I would tried XP Home SP2. With this I am at least able to partition the drives and choose quick format but once it gets to 20% this too freezes.
So far I have gone into BIOS and chosen to load both safe defaults and optimized defaults, which makes no difference. I have also tried removing one or the other of the memory sticks, again no help.
Here is the system particulars.....
MSI P6N SLI Platinum LGA 775 NVIDIA nForce 650i SLI ATX MB
Intel Core 2 Duo E6600 2.4GHz 775 Processor
Antec Truepower Trio 650w PSU
G.SKILL 2GB (2 x 1GB) 240-Pin DDR2 SDRAM DDR2 800 (PC2 6400)
1 - Western Digital Caviar 200GB 7200 RPM SATA 3.0Gb/s Hard Drive
1 - Western Digital Caviar 250GB 7200 RPM SATA 3.0Gb/s Hard Drive
1 - GIGABYTE GeForce 7300GT 256MB GDDR2 PCI Express x16 Video card
1 - DVD drive
1 - Sony Floppy
Everything is brand new. Any help would be greatly appreciated

Quote
Regarding Dual Channel Mode:
Am I reading the manual wrong? In the illustration it shows 4 DIMMS, the closest to the CPU being DIMM1, followed by DIMM3 (which are yellow), then DIMM2 and lastly DIMM4 (which are orange), and it states that in order to take advantage of dual channel to place the memory in DIMMS 1 & 2 and/or DIMMS 3 & 4
Sorry. I did not realize MSI relabeled the DIMMs. You are right of course.
[CPU] - DIMM1 - DIMM23 - DIMM32 - DIMM4
[CPU] - SLOT1 - SLOT2 - SLOT3 - SLOT4

Who has this setup - MSI P6N SLI Platinum & E8400

This message is intended for anyone who has the MSI P6N SLI Platinum & E8400 in a working state.
I've had the pleasure of perusing these forums for a while in hopes of finding an answer as to why my E8400 isn't working with my P6N SLI Platinum. I've updated my BIOS, I've RMA'd my chip, I've even contacted MSI support (with no reply I might add). I have been so careful when handling these components and thoroughly reading the instructions, to no avail. I've got the board and all components working with a different processor. I've tried the voltage modifications that many have said work, I've tried different memory, I even tried a different video card. So I'm stuck in the same boat as many it seems, however there are one or two posts on this forum and others where people have said they actually got it to work!
So now I really hope I can get this question answered - What is a working config? One of the things I haven't tried yet is a new power supply. My current PS is 650w, but has the 4 pin CPU power connector. From the posts I've read, it shouldn't matter if I have the 4 or the 8. But in reality, does this CPU work on the P6N Plat with an 8 pin connector? I'd be willing to go buy a new PS if thats the case! What else could possibly be the issue? Any and all feedback is appreciated. i really didn't want to start up another thread for this proc/board issue, but perhaps someone else has joined this board by now that may provide the little piece of info that I've been missing.
Cheers,
Aaron

according to the website, the 1.6 BIOS had cpu updates in march so I's assume it would have support for the E8400.
What exactly happens when you turn on the system with the E8400?
-=Mark=-

P6N SLI Platinum, audio driver update gives "No Driver was supported..."

I have the audio driver from the CD that came with the mobo, but I wanted to update it to the new version. Currently I have R1.67 2.32, I tried to install the driver (R1.83 2.51) from http://global.msi.com.tw/index.php?func=downloaddetail&type=driver&maincat_no=1&prod_no=1140 but get the message "No Driver was supported in this driver package".
Also, I went to the Realtek site and got their even newer driver R1.84 but it asked me to remove the previous driver first, I'd rather check with the boards first to see what is going on.
P6N SLI Platinum
BIOS 1.4
Realtek Audio onboard

Could you please point me to where I can locate Live BIOS, first I hear of it. Thanks for the input btw.
Another off topic question. Does the Dual Core Center work ok with Vista x64? Wondering just in case before I get to using it. On my first Vista install is seemed to work, 2nd format it would come up with 2 error messages and not start:
"Error! unable to load ntuneoem.dll" and "Failed to load overclocking driver! This program must run as an administrator."
I have ntune installed on my 2nd format (which I found out doesn't work in Vista 64 properly) but cannot uninstall it from Add/Remove. A wizard window comes up and closes in the same seconds when I click uninstall. Tried to uninstall using the MSI CD which with I loaded it, still gives an error (tried to google the error msg but the msg is extremely rare and doesn't point to the problem). Going to have to manually remove it it seems and hope I get it all.

Memory Setting DRAM setting P6N sli platinum

i wonder what setting you would go for the highest cpu GHZ . i have set mine at these and it is 3 GHz , temp 28 degree Centigrade. my main concern is dram config at this stage. your input will be much appreciated
DRAM configuration
Options
1-tCL auto 1-6 mine is set at 6
2-tRCD auto 1-7 mine is set at 7
3-tRP auto 1-7 mine is set at 7
4-tRAS auto 1-31 mine is set at 20
5-tRRD auto 1-15 mine is set at auto
6-tRC auto 1-31 mine is set at auto
7-tWR auto 1-6 mine is set at auto
8-tWTR auto 1-15 mine is set at auto
9-tREF auto 7.6us 3.9us mine is set at auto
10-command per clock (CMD) auto 1T 2T mine is set at 2T
cpu volt 3 tick above default
memory volt 1.9
north bridge 1.5 i think not sure
south bridge default
MSI P6N SLI Platinum
Q6600 Go revision
MSI 256 graphic card ATI HD 2400
2 X 1GB crucial pc6400 CL6
mastercoll 500Watts
window xpsp2

Have you tried decreasing RAM speed?
Read the Posting Guide.

P6N SLI PLATINUM CMOS BAD CHECKSUM ERROR TIME DATE

I have the same problem. It’s driving me crazy. Here is my specs:
MSI P6N SLI Platinum LGA 775
Intel Core 2 Duo E6420 2.13GHz 4M shared L2 Cache
Foxconn GeForce 7900GS 256MB 256-bit GDDR3 PCI Express x16
Western Digital Caviar SE16 WD7500AAKS 750GB 7200 RPM
Kingston KHX6400D2LLK2/2G 2GB kit PC2-6400 800MHZ
LG DVD GSA-H50N DVD-R 18X
Matsu"I'm a potty mouth"a Floppy drive
Windows XP 32-Bit
CoolerMaster RP-500-PCAR – 500W
+3.3V +5V +12V1 +12V2 -5V -12V +5VSB
20A 20A 16A 16A 0.8A 0.8A 2.0A
Sometimes the computer boots ok, and everything works great.
Sometimes it just doesn’t boot, it just gives a blank screen. So, I press reset and the post gives the CMOS CHECKSUM BAD. F1 to setup F2 to default.
If I go to the setup everything is just like I left, including the time. Even if I setup the bios with default configuration, the problem continues.
Here is a list of everything I have tried
1) Replaced the battery 2 times. I checked with a multimeter. It’s 3V allright
2) Disconnected everything leaving only 1GB memory and the graphics card
3) Updated the bios version several times, to make sure I did it ok. I cleared the CMOS after allright
4) I read every post in this forum about bios and P6N SLI Platinum
5) Already checked the D-BRACKET. It shows 4 green leds when the screen is blank
6) Already checked fans: CPU and graphics fans works ok
7) Already tested with memtest86+ V2.01
8) Already upped the northbridge to 1.325V, CPU 3 notches and the memory another 3 notches.
So anyone has any ideas, or I’ll just have to go to a computer store and swap the graphics or the PSU and try to see if the problem vanishes??? It’s gonna be tough… they don’t like to let you test the merchandise….
PS: Thanks for all the help so far that you have been giving to TheGimp, after all, we have the same problem…

I had the same problem after ~8months of trouble free service; it was intermittent too. sometimes it would boot fine, others times i'd get the error message. I removed the battery to test it. it was fine. i cleared the cmos with the button while the battery was removed. i noticed that the battery holder seems not to be anchored to the board at all. I haven't confirmed this but it looks like the protruding metal clip holds it all together. i had contacted MSI support about the problem earlier. they told me to clear the cmos. i asked about the battery holder not being secure on the board, and, as in the typical support response to an unusual question, they gave me some vague, undecipherable response. So, anyway when i put the battery back in, i felt the holder kind of click into place. I haven't had any problems since.

P6N SLI Platinum, no post (also!)

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