P6n sli platinum (raid setup "issues")

got 2#  320 gig seagates formated and ready (sata)
the system was up and running fine on  1  hard drive and windows xp-pro
reformated  1st hard drive  and want to re-install XP but  in raid O  now...............
I am booting from my floppies, when instructed to hit F6  to install raid controllers off another floppy....
the damn system won't allow me......  I hit f6  quite a bit and can never get into the installation of the raid controllers?
any ideas?

I can remember having a similar issue when I installed a RAID system for the first time.  It turned out to be the keyboard.  I had a MS keyboad and it turns off the F-Keys on defult.  There is a function key toggle button just to the right of the f-keys.  you need to hit it as soon as the bios shows up on the screen.  then you should be able to get the F6 key to work.
also, make sure you have the raid turned on for your drives in the system bios, then you need to activate the raid volume in the raid bios.
hope this helps.

Similar Messages

  • K9N2 SLI Platinum raid setup after bios flash

    Hi
    I'm building a new system based on K9N2 SLI Platinum. Apart from a new 80 GB sys. HDD everything else is reuse from another MB (MSI K9N Platinum).
    Here is what is puzling me: Before trying to install WinXP i flashed the bios to 3.2 because of the included updates to the raid bios. Flashing went well, however in my setup I want the 80 GB HDD to be non-raid and the two 320 GB HDD to be raid1. I've set this up in bios so that only channel 5 and 6 is enabled for raid and would expect that the 80 GB HDD (channel 1) would show up as a normal sata HDD when starting up. But it doesn't - it is listed as 0.0 xxxx after the "press F10 to enter raid setup" message?
    This is strange because I had the same HDD setup on my old MSI K9N Platinum and there the 80 GB sata HDD was shown as a "normal" disk and not as a "appendix" to the raid list.
    Because of this I have problems installing WinXP on the 80 GB HDD
    Any suggestions?

    Hi BOSSKILLER
    Thanks for your quick response.
    Quote from: BOSSKILLER on 12-August-08, 00:14:44
    Well, leave the 80GB only and install XP over it.
    Then connect other two HDD's and enable RAID for them.
    Unfortunately this didn't help. As soon as I installed the Windows nVidia RAID SW it prompted med that it had registered  the 80 GB disk as a new disk that wasn't a member of any RAID. This happened everytime Windows XP was started.
    The trick was to add the 80 GB disk as a Spanned disk using the nVidia RAID BIOS setup utility. Install Windows XP (again) and the Windows nVidia RAID SW and setup RAID 1 on the other two sata disk.
    I don't think this is a great setup but it works. I hope that MSI will fix this issue in a later BIOS upgrade. It would be nice if the enabled/disabled for sata RAID setting actually worked.

  • P6N SLI Platinum weird net issue

    I've been having a really bizarre issue lately. there are 4 computers on my home network and each one except mine has an average download speed of about 2mb/s and 1.5mb/s upload speed. My computer has an average download speed of 4mb/s but an average upload speed of 20kb/s. This just started happening about a week ago. After i restart the computer it's fine for about 15 minutes but then it goes back. I completely reset the router and that didn't fix it and tried tweaking with it to see if that did anything but still no progress. So I've narrowed it down to my computer but now i have no clue. I Cleared my arp cache as well and that gave me a little more speed but still not near what it used to be. Any ideas?
    Oh and yes I've tried driver re installation, I've backed all my information and then just reinstalled windows but still no real progress

    Check your network configuration and see if it is set to Auto detection?
    You may want to try 100Mbps Full duplex in your network card settings.
    Next, you can also check if there's any application that causes this sympton to happen.

  • Who has this setup - MSI P6N SLI Platinum & E8400

    This message is intended for anyone who has the MSI P6N SLI Platinum & E8400 in a working state.
    I've had the pleasure of perusing these forums for a while in hopes of finding an answer as to why my E8400 isn't working with my P6N SLI Platinum. I've updated my BIOS, I've RMA'd my chip, I've even contacted MSI support (with no reply I might add). I have been so careful when handling these components and thoroughly reading the instructions, to no avail. I've got the board and all components working with a different processor. I've tried the voltage modifications that many have said work, I've tried different memory, I even tried a different video card. So I'm stuck in the same boat as many it seems, however there are one or two posts on this forum and others where people have said they actually got it to work!
    So now I really hope I can get this question answered - What is a working config? One of the things I haven't tried yet is a new power supply. My current PS is 650w, but has the 4 pin CPU power connector. From the posts I've read, it shouldn't matter if I have the 4 or the 8. But in reality, does this CPU work on the P6N Plat with an 8 pin connector? I'd be willing to go buy a new PS if thats the case! What else could possibly be the issue? Any and all feedback is appreciated. i really didn't want to start up another thread for this proc/board issue, but perhaps someone else has joined this board by now that may provide the little piece of info that I've been missing.
    Cheers,
    Aaron

    according to the website, the 1.6 BIOS had cpu updates in march so I's assume it would have support for the E8400.
    What exactly happens when you turn on the system with the E8400?
    -=Mark=-

  • P6N Sli Platinum front audio panel and CPU temp voltage issues

    Hi All,
    I got my P6N Sli Platinum yesterday, build up my computer without any major issues. However I have noticed that my audio front panel does not work. It could not detect my microphone when i plug it into front auido panel, it works fine for the rear auido panel though.
    Another issues is I highly doubt the accuracy of CPU temp sensor. Msi 's software monitor reports my CPU temp is around 19-20 degree, I know that's too good to be true even I am using a water cooling system. Btw my cpu is E6600. Anyone else has the similar issues?
    The third, I notice my CPU voltage is bouncing between 1.1 to 1.24 in CPU-z. And the multiplier is changing from 6 to 9, frequency is changing from 1.6g to 2.4g. I only see this in CPU-z.  Msi 's own software reports CPU running at 2.4g though. Is this cpuz issue or something else?
    Finally, any tips to max the overclock potential of this board? I have overclocked to 3.1g but there are some crashes. Going higher the board just won't boot up. I read a review on anandtech.com says 1.22 bios is good for oc. Where can i download that? I only found 1.1 bios on official site.
    Any reply will be appreciated.
    Cheers

    Quote
    Another issues is I highly doubt the accuracy of CPU temp sensor. Msi 's software monitor reports my CPU temp is around 19-20 degree, I know that's too good to be true even I am using a water cooling system. Btw my cpu is E6600. Anyone else has the similar issues?
    C2D-CPUs have a digital internal sensor to monitor CPU Core temperatures.  Have a look at those with Core Temp ( http://www.thecoolest.zerobrains.com/CoreTemp/ ).  This Tool reads the temperature data directly from the register of your CPU. There is nothing wrong with the sensor.  It is rather the MSI tool that does not read the data it provides correctly.
    Quote
    The third, I notice my CPU voltage is bouncing between 1.1 to 1.24 in CPU-z. And the multiplier is changing from 6 to 9, frequency is changing from 1.6g to 2.4g. I only see this in CPU-z.  Msi 's own software reports CPU running at 2.4g though. Is this cpuz issue or something else?
    There is no issue.  What CPU-Z allows you to see there is the C1E-feature of your CPU at work.  When there is nothing to do your processor will automatically reduce Core Voltages and frequency to save power and keep temperatures down.  As soon as the work load increases the multiplier is set back to x9 and core voltages increase dynamically.  It is meant to be a good thing.
    I have overclocked my system a little and I like that the C1E feature is still working at this speed setting CPU frequency to 2GHz and core voltage to 1.144v when my system is idle. 
    If you have problems with this feature you can turn it off in BIOS. The option is labeled as "C1E Support" and might be hidden somewhere.  You may be able to hit "F4" to unhide it. 
    The MSI utilities are not the best tools to monitor your system.  CPU-Z, Core Temp, Everest, Speedfan, Memset, Rightmark Memory Analyzer for example do a far better job.

  • Net Issues with P6N SLI Platinum

    Hello all. I am having issues getting the internet to work on my new system with the following specs:
    Mother Board = MSI NVidia nForce 650i SLI Chipset Based P6N SLI Platinum
    CPU ............ = Intel Core 2 Quad Q6600, LGA775 Pkg 2.40 GHz, 8MB L2 Cache Total, 1066 MHz FSB
    Memory ...... = Geil 2GB PC2-6400 DDR2 800 CL=5-4-4-12 1.9-2.5v (x4)
    PSU ............ = Zerodba 620W
    Video .......... = EVGA e-GeForce 8800 GTS
    Hard Drives . = Seagate Barracuda 320 GB SATA 3/GB Transfer
    OS .............. = Vista Ultimate OEM 64-Bit
    I can't get the system to recognize the router or network or even access the internet when plugged directly into the cable modem. I've power cycled plenty of times, and the other systems in my network work without fail. I've disabled UAC, windows firewall, and anything else that might be interfering on the software end. I have installed the latest drivers from the msi site, and have even installed the latest nforce drivers from NVidia's site as well. Any suggestions would be appreciated!

    Quote from: Maesus on 29-September-07, 09:00:00
    1. make sure you enable LAN in the BIOS
    2. make sure the LAN driver is properly installed in the BIOS
    3. make sure your cable modem can detect your LAN - did you implement MAC address filtering? set the LAN speed to be detectable by the cable modem, ie 10Mbps?
    1. The onboard LAN controller is enabled in BIOS
    2. Not sure how to go about doing this exactly.
    3. MAC address filtering is only enabled for wireless connections and it seems that the router is "seeing" the system. I have connected directly to the modem as well to no avail. I'm not sure how to set the LAN speed to be detectable to the cable modem.
    "Check your network speed and try not to use Auto negotiation. Try setting it to 100Mbps full duplex, or 10Mbps full and see how it goes."
    Where would I be able to adjust these settings exactly? Thanks for the help so far!

  • P6N SLI Platinum BIOS issue...

    So I purchased an e8400 processor after the 1.6 BIOS update came out for my P6N SLI Platinum, got it yesterday.  I put the processor in and it didn't work .  I turned to Google to have the internet fix the issue, and it seems if I adjust some options in my BIOS, it may make the e8400 work.  Two of the things it said to change were EIST and C1E.  I went into my BIOS, and tried hitting F4 in the CPU menu to get C1E to show up, but it won't.  The EIST option is no where to be found either...
    Anyone else running into the same issue, or got a e8400 to work after changing stuff in the BIOS?
    Thanks a lot!
    EDIT:  Forgot to post my system specs
    Mobo: P6N SLI Platinum
    CPU:  Intel Pentium D 930
    RAM 2GB (1GB x2) Patriot DDR 667 (PC 5300)
    GPU: eVGA nVidia GeForce 8800GT
    PSU: Thermaltake 500W

    I used that bios, but on my regular p6n sli and got it to work.  here is my topic on it
    https://forum-en.msi.com/index.php?topic=115998.0
    Dont clear the bios after you take out the old cpu or it wont work
    I have been tinkering with it all day just to see what the actual problem is and it doesnt seem that it is the EIST OR C1E. from what I have done it seems that it is a problem with the voltages that keeps it from booting. If you change those with the other cpu in and then save and exit.  Dont let it reboot, shut it off before it starts to boot up again and put the e8400 in

  • MediaShield RAID 5 implementation on a P6N SLI Platinum plus boot question

    Hi guys
    I have a P6N SLI Platinum I am considering using to replace my old decrepit Thecus N4100+ NAS enclosure. My NAS has four 750Gb SATA II drives in RAID 5 giving a total usable amount of about 2Tb.
    I have a few questions please:
    What is the maximum size RAID that MediaShield will support? I seem to recall reading somewhere it was 1.6Tb? This is a problem with 3Tb storage (1/4 redundancy)!!
    What is the performance like running RAID 5? What are the read/write times like?
    How much of a performance hit does the PC take running RAID 5 with MediaShield? This box has an E5500 quad core 4*2.8Ghz chip but is running some very hungry software (one build is a DAW based on Cubase and various VSTs; another is running Photoshop CS3) which I can't afford to be tied up sorting out low level RAID stuff if it's going to be a problem. Can I dedicate one of my four cores to the XOR for the RAID 5 freeing up the other three for actual PC stuff?
    There is currently one SATA drive already in this box containing the OS. If I use the four SATA ports for the MediaShield RAID and buy a 3rd party PCI/PCIE SATA controller card to plug this current drive into will I be able to set it to boot from it or do I need to migrate the drive to an IDE drive and put it on the IDE chain?
    Many thanks in advance you guys.
    Cheers

    Where do I start?
    I have a E5500, it's a dual core chip.
    Second, media shield sucks. Don't use it unless absolutely necessary.
    Buy a pci-e 1x 'firmware' card, I use the RocketRaid 2300 cards, good and cheap. Good, usable  RAID5.
    They have a performance advantage, a load time advantage, cpu utilization advantage, and most importantly, if you want to migrate your array over to another motherboard, you can. Easily.
    If your mobo dies, and you replace it with a more current one, your array is toast with mediashield.\
    Boot from a motherboard sata port. Don't boot from a RAID 5 array, trust me.
    http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16816115029

  • P6N SLI Platinum (MS-7350) BIOS issue

    I RMA'ed my P6N SLI Platinum MS-7350 and got back another identical board. However, this one has BIOS 2.7 in it. Bios 2.7 according to MSI page on this board is actually for the P6N SLI (also a MS-7350). The latest BIOS for the Platinum is 1.7. Im confused. Should I reflash it to 1.7 so that it has the proper BIOS instead of a BIOS from the P6N SLI not platinum? I know I have the platinum because the box says so AND the board has the copper heat piping across it unlike the MSI picture of the SLI (non-plat).

    Quote from: TeachDJ on 05-January-10, 01:15:33
    I have those: eSata, Firewire, and SPDIF port on this board yet, BIOS is currently flashed at 2.7 as mentioned. Thanks.
    Then they clearly did return the Platinum board to you, as the P6N does not have those extras.
    And (apparently) the v2.7 BIOS works with the Platinum as well as the plain P6N. Fascinating. Maybe you want to contact Tech Support about it, but if it's working--why are you concerned?
    I'm interested because my P7N Platinum has a v1.3 BIOS, and (like your P6N) the lesser-capability board, the P7N, is up to BIOS v2.2. So I have wondered "Why is the simpler board getting more recent updates than the more sophisticated one?" But my system is working perfectly--it ain't broke so I don't need to fix it!

  • P6N SLI Platinum - E4300 multiplier drops to 6x

    Hi all, first post.  Did some searches on here and can't find an answer, also this is a pretty new mobo.
    CPU-Z shows my cpu at 1.8ghz @ 9x multiplier, but every few seconds it switches to 1.2ghz @ 6x multiplier.  This sounds like a speedstep issue, but I disabled EIST in the BIOS, and all spread spectrum options. In windows power management I set it to Always On.  I see a lot of talk about C1E but don't see any option regarding that setting in my BIOS.
    Is this normal behavior for the E4300?  I'm hesitant to start OC'ing when I'm having issues at stock clock.
    Thanks for any ideas.
    My setup:
    P6N SLI Platinum / E4300 / Scythe Ninja / Antec Trio 650 / 2x1 GB Corsair XMS2 6400 / 2x WD 160gb - RAID 0 / Leadtek 8800gts 640

    Quote from: Maesus on 06-March-07, 09:06:11
    how about locking it to 6x and ramp up the FSB much higher?
    Would there be an advantage to that versus a 333fsb x9 (3ghz) OC?  I didn't get the best ram in the world because I wasn't looking for crazy speeds.  The PC-6400 Corsair ($160 w/rebate) I have is rated at 5-5-5-18 at 1.8v.  I have it at 5-5-5-12-2T at 1.9v.  I'm not uber-conversant on memory timings but when I set it on 1T windows crashed immediately. Anandtech mentioned that changing to 1T had little to no real world performance improvements so I can live with it.
    Currently I have the fsb at 333 (1333 in BIOS setting) and DRAM at 333 (666 in BIOS) so I have a 1:1 ratio which I understand is preferable.  The MSI Dual Core utility reports that my CPU is running about 7 degrees cooler than the System temperature. Is that possible, or do I have a jumper setting mixed up somewhere...

  • P6N SLI-FI & P6N SLI Platinum

    Main purpose for those betas, fix for slowdown issue when using 4GB system memory.
    beta BIOS for P6N SLI Platinum ver V1.32:
    BIOS Sign-on message: MSI P6N SLI Platinum A7350NMS V1.32 050307 (Date: 05/03/2007)
    Attachment name: P6N SLI Platinum BIOS 1.32.zip
    beta BIOS for P6N SLI-FI ver V2.22:
    BIOS Sign-on message: MSI P6N SLI A7350NMS V2.22 050307 (Date: 05/03/2007)
    Attachment name: P6N SLI-FI BIOS 2.22.zip
    Make and ensure PC is stable before proceed. flash BIOS from USB key, by using our Tool(easy & safe way to flash):
    MSI Forum HQ USB Flashing Tool 
    Use Beta or Modded BIOSes at own risk!

    Quote from: BOSSKILLER on 29-April-07, 00:17:22
    Main purpose for those betas, fix for slowdown issue when using 4GB system memory.
    beta BIOS for P6N SLI Platinum ver V1.32:
    BIOS Sign-on message: MSI P6N SLI Platinum A7350NMS V1.32 050307 (Date: 05/03/2007)
    Attachment name: P6N SLI Platinum BIOS 1.32.zip
    beta BIOS for P6N SLI-FI ver V2.22:
    BIOS Sign-on message: MSI P6N SLI A7350NMS V2.22 050307 (Date: 05/03/2007)
    Attachment name: P6N SLI-FI BIOS 2.22.zip
    Make and ensure PC is stable before proceed. flash BIOS from USB key, by using our Tool(easy & safe way to flash):
    MSI Forum HQ USB Flashing Tool 
    Use Beta or Modded BIOSes at own risk!
    i have the problem with the 4gb upgrade (slow) on winx64. my question is do i have to use this bios ver 1.32 or get the latest and the greatest bios v1.6 for my mobo p6n sli plat?
    thanks in advance.
    -alex

  • P6N SLI Platinum random shutdowns

    System:
    MSI P6N SLI Platinum MoBo
    Intel E6750 CPU
    Etasis 850W PSU
    Corsair CM2X1024-6400C4 RAM (using only 1 stick while troubleshooting)
    MSI NX8600GTS GPU
    OK, this is a strange one. I put my new system together and everything seemed to be working fine. POST looked OK, and I was even able to install Windows. Everything seemed stable.
    One thing that troubled me was that the lights on the D-Bracket were all red AFTER POST. In other words everything was working, but the LEDs were showing CPU problem. I tried everything I could think of to get the lights to go away, but nothing worked. I disconnected all HDs, DVD, and floppy drives. I reset the BIOS, and reseated the CPU. I tried putting RAM in different slots, tried both sticks solo, but nothing made any difference.
    It was getting late, so I decided to go to bed and run memtest86+ over night. When I got up this morning the system had powered itself down. When I turned it on again it powered itself off within a minute of being turned on. This was with all the drives hooked up, so I disconnected everything and now it's been sitting happily in the BIOS for over 30 minutes.
    So at this point, it seems like it could be a power supply issue. Unfortunately, I don't have another PSU with an 8-pin CPU connector that I can try in this system. Any thoughts? Next steps to try?
    Other possibly useful facts:
    When I boot into the BIOS the D-Bracket lights show #3 green, and all others red, indicating "initializing keyboard controller". But when I boot past the BIOS to a CDROM or Windows, they show all red, indicating "CPU problem"
    The system makes a brief chirp the POST screen. It doesn't sound like a beep code to me, and I've heard some boards will do an "everything's OK" beep like this. But it could be important so there it is.
    Although it seems happier with all the drives disconnected (indicating a PSU problem), it still shows all red LEDs on the D-Bracket (indicating a CPU problem).
    This is not the first system I've built, and I was fairly careful about putting everything together the right way. The only goof I know of is that at one point I was unplugging and re-plugging things and I ran the system for a while without connecting PCIE power to the GPU. Could that have broken something?
    Any help would be much appreciated.
    -Steve

    UPDATE: I tried hooking up my old 400W PSU with 20-pin ATX and 4-pin CPU connectors (apparently this is OK to do) but there was no change. Still four red LEDs.
    I also tried removing the PCI-E GPU and booted it up with an antique PCI VGA card. Again, no change. Maybe I really did get a bad CPU?
    Any other ideas, before I try to return my CPU?
     

  • [P6N SLI Platinum] black screen NO BOOT after D-bracket replug [RMA-SOLVED]

    Quick setup specs;
    P6N SLI Platinum
    E6600 (box/stock 2400mhz basic)
    2x 1Gb DDR2 6400 Gskill HZ
    Sapphire ATI X1600Pro (PCI-e basic)
    Aerocool Zero DBA 620W
    (2 HDs sata, 2 Hds pata, 2 optical pata at first -all OK at first, disconnected after, so irrelevant here ,( )
    (XP Pro clean new install from start)
    I tried to check the forum old posts before trying to write that new one, but could not find any really related totally adequate posts so far (or i missed them, sorry if so, then -?). I could already find very useful informations on first aid usual 'rebooting' procedures to follow with minimum new boot configurations, d-bracket new LED signals etc. But so far no luck, all same, nothing better, nothing cured here for the stuation here. ,(( Also excuse my english if not perfect, i am not english either. ,(
    VERY bad & sad problem here... ,(((( :
    All was working perfectly great during 5 days.. the P6N SLI platinum install went GREAT initially (as normal, not a first pc built, all normally happening, so far so good, etc).... all hardwares compatible together at first (dedicated ATX 'full' 8x8 pins connector too for the cpu only for ex -all working perfect at first try. quick tensions 5V/12V under msi dual core control tool perfect too etc), was great easy going/ great strong ultra-stability feeling on the hardware side.. i was just now concentrating on the software side (no special BIOS tweaks even attempted so far, all on basics-normal e6600/ddr2 auto-settings, apart at the end ddr2 quick test -when problem occured- on 450(900?)Mhz at 2.1V, far far easy under its possible specs max anyway.. and had been working perfect for 3 days with that little ddr2 boost try -no time for special bios further tweakings now, etc), reinstalling and transfering/reorganizing slowly my necessary files/hds/softwares from old to new setup, no oc, nothing special tempted (i was planning oc, new cpu more suited fan/silver6 etc only for the end..), LAN file sharing setup done, Realtek audio setup test done, etc ; installation had been so far one of the quickest and problem free ever... explaining maybe also my fatal lack of cautioun for just (too much) 3 sec in the end after 5/- days of perfect working new ring going on.. ,((( :
    At first, i also tried to immediately install the D-Bracket too to check possible hardware install problems -very useful feature i of course thought too..and wanted to try too, "in case of"..- (installing it from quick reading of the printed manual..with no colour pic coding inside..and quick error coming from there thereafter with an initial mismatch usb/jbd1 inverted plugs connections.. *both* having the exact same pins numbers and dispositions, beeing side by side on mainboard layout.. and so able to connect both headers indifferently.. so i did not see it immediately (( .. and no way to see it otherwise as such, anyway.. ,( ), just to be sure all was ok. I noticed that LED were of course, never lightning (not normal).. but as EVERYTHING else was working fine (GLAN, sound, etc etc).. i did not bother more than that -- error checking not necessary.
    Till that fatal clumsy day i wanted suddenly to.. check the D-bracket too. ((((
    All was working well, XP pro opened for hours as usual etc..
    i had not yet totally finished to install the motherboard in the pc-case (always on desk, free in sight..)... so i could always see the connections on it. ... and i noticed that ... the colour headers codes were NOT matching (usb=yellow..).. i had just stupidly initially badly connected the D-Bracket jdb1/usb adjacent plugs (inverting them), so... And still, all had ever worked perfect.. except the D-Bracket, of course, was sending back no lights then, obviously.. so i did the fatal error.. confident all was stable enough and strong if even that initial plug error had had no consequences at all.. i did the fatal bad move to try to UNPLUG the D-Bracket connectors and put them back in right orders WITHOUT switching OFF the power supply so... like an hot USB plug, sort of, in a way. fatal error.. :( :( :(
    As soon as i began to remove the usb/jdb1 connectors and put them back in normal order... the system suddenly SHUT DOWN ... no special bad noise, no special smell.. just sudden SHUT DOWN.
    From there.. impossible ever to boot back again the so far perfectly working machine (((((((((((( , always same till now :
    i switch on the power supply.. orange led appears on motherboard (ok)... i switch on the motherboard.. green led on motherboard appears (ok)... CPU fan begins (ok), video fan begins (ok) .... and... NOTHING.. total black video screen. no more even possibility to see the BIOS. :( total dead startup .. and the fans are going on eternally, blocked eternally in that inital startup with leds on too (no sudden shut down after a few seconds.. just.. nothing)... :(
    Suprem irony.. the D-bracket LED seems to 'work' now.. "of course". Just the PC no more booting at all ^. Only thing is that only green LEDs are appearing, no red ones... simply the sequence, from start and never changing :
    1. GREEN   2. GREEN
    3. GREEN   4. (---)    (not red, just nothing -?)
    If i look in manual, it means "Testing RTC (real time clock)". I don't know exactly what it means *here*, but sounds to me it is the most basic initial first BIOS checking.. and BIOS can't be reached for even that so ; BIOS fried???? :( :(
    I tried every 'standard' things recommanded usually here in older posts, for new boots recovery attempts thereafter in such 'boot errors' situations (clear cmos button pushed in every possible ways -quick, long, quick etc..-, removing little by little everything but the very minimal least energy taxing setup; keyboard, cpu, video, motherboard; 1 ddr2 nearest cpu slot.. point).. NOTHING. Worst, i tried to boot with one of those elements missing.. exact same D-Bracket lightning from start to.. eternally (123 GREEN 4-nothing). Even tried to remove the little (cmos?) KTS lithium battery for a few hours -that could work sometimes with the old already ultra-sensitive amd/nforce2 chipset bioses problems, so i tried there too-?-; same 3 green lights and fans running and nothing else happening from there.. ((
    Always the same; total dead boot as above. black screen. no possible access to even bios panel. ,(((
    So my desperate questions, now: of course, the origin is obvious here; all happened "by my fault" when i tried 'too quickly' to 'hot-plugging' replace correctly the D-BRACKET plugs *without* switching off the power supply... all shut down suddenly when i put back correctly the usb& jdb1 headers... :( ;
    - do you think there could be any possible last HOPES to recover the situation that i had missed (a well known situation in such d-bracket handling 'common' (?) connection error, a simple trick to try i had missed ??)
    - do you think i FRIED something in the process on the motherboard ?? :( :(
    - do you think it is 'only' the BIOS (fried????) ?? :( :(
    - do you think i could have fried a specifical external key component in the process (not necessarily motherboard) : ddr2 modules, cpu, video card????? :( :(
    - is my only solution is to send the motherboard to RMA (no other ways now) ???
    please, don't hesitate to give me any possible hints to try to avoid the RMA process.
    can i avoid it, right now?
    is that possible to fry an whole board just with such a D-Bracket 'hot plug switch' (on a so far perfectly working -light-  setup - no oc, little video card, etc) ???? :( :(
    That is the only C2D Intel/ddr2 motherboard i have here around. No possibility to test elements by elements for precise error checking (cpu, ddr2 modules, video card or powersupply).
    Only things i could check so far are;
    - the power supply (aerocool 620W zeroDBA) ;
    i tested it back on my old amd xp-m nforce2 setup.. always working apparently. NOT 'fried' so, apparently. but no way of course to test for exemple the special 8x8 (or 8x4) Intel ATX cpu connector on old xp-m motherboard. But power supply NOt fried at least, apparently -?
    - the video card.
    no way for me to really test the pci-e card on other motherboard around but.. i tried a very old PCI VGA card.. that one works on old setup.. and on P6N, no effect, doesn't improve the situation. So, not sure the new pci-e video card isn't fried.. but a new video card doesn't correct the dead boot problem.. (
    No way for me to test the ddr2 or CPU directly though.
    Do you think DDR2 or CPU could have been fried in the process too ???
    or just, as i fear anyway, 'simply', the motherboard BIOS fried -??? :-(
    Really, thx for any suggestions..
    if there could be an 'hidden' trick i did not try yet to try to recover the (initially working perfectly!!! (( ) setup, WITHOUT engaging the motherboard RMA process (at least 2 or 3 weeks lost here to wait the return..online store etc..)....
    please, suggest me.. ,((
    i am *really* very sad of that stupid clumsy idea to want to 'enable' the D-Bracket.. all was working great so far.. and i lost all with just that stupid idea to try an hot plug bracket reconnection without switching off the power supply it seems.. can it be possible,sigh?? all seemed so stable before that, that i.. just lost my usual cautious just 3 sec too long it seems... :-(
    Thanks in advance
    hoping post not too long too, but i tried to expose the situation as precisely as possible; first time i ever had such a problem with a motherboard/system install.. that is quiet ironical knowing it was also the best and quickest/easiest easy going new built i ever had so far too.. till then ,( .. and all came from the 'helper' d-bracket 'luxury second hand possible boot helper diagnostic tool' checking in the end too, here.. really hoping i can avoid an RMA process.. and no other hardware elements (apart the motherboard?) could have been damaged in the process ? ,(((

    hi, thx a lot for the quick answer. sorry for the length indeed (i did not know exactly how to describe the situation.. without omitting any later possibly important details).
    Alas, i already tried that many times in following interesting asnwers on similar problems in old posts here; did NOTHING. ,(
    But after your post, i tried it again, and removed for the remaining *hours* (6/8h?) the cmos battery as suggested again *too* so -pushed again the clear cmos button etc when battery out, then when in again, then replugging the powersupply etc; NOTHING better alas too. always same, no boot, black screen, no bios. ,(
    Problem always the same, to sum up, for clarity:
    power supply on => orange motherboard led is lightning up, motherboard on => green motherboard led is lightning up, cpu/video/case fans are working up as normal and.. that's all. nothing else forever. black screen. no signal. not a single chance to get again the bios setup screen.
    another detail i omitted, maybe; keyboard lights are all lightnng up too.. and stay blocked in that state too. tested with 2 different keyboards, same. to shut down the leds, fans etc, only one solution, shut down the power supply button directly, at that stage.
    right now, i test on barebone minimal system as recommanded too;
    cpu, 1 dimm (closest cpu slot), video, keyboard. all rest disconnected.
    i of course tried to reset the cmos with the 'magical red button' many times before, with power supply cable plugged out, pushed the button trying almost every possible way so far (quick, long, long sequences, short sequences etc etc)... changed NOTHING so far -is that thing working?? ,(. and right now, same after hours with cmos battery removed too. ,(
    the d-bracket leds are always (now it is correctly plugged..) :
    123 GREEN 4 (nothing)
    "Testing RTC (real time clock)"
    another 'interesting' detail is that; those leds are appearing IMMEDIATELY after the motherboard is switched on, from start (green led appearing on P6N). and it is staying as such till the end. nothing else. i tried to connect also the case speaker ; no bips, no sound signals at all too.
    I also remind the system was WORKING like a dream during 5 days *before* i had that sudden TOTAL boot problem.... AND i touched almost nothing in the bios too all along, for initial security reasons too.. (i was concentrating on the software installs anyway right now, NOT on the oc side..). The ddr2 quick little change i did was also the ONLY change i tempted to simply test quickly some setting i already saw working without problem with that P6N and that kind of ram.. and it was working without problem so far too, so.. all the time idem. And it had been perfectly working for 3 days as such untouched from there; no problems at all (those memory modules have been seen on that motherboard largely at those specs, why i did that quick test anyway.. far under their possible max -micron chips). it was even working so well i forgot to put the setting back as default after that quick ram test.. so much it was stable too (even if i had not time to do real memtest test on that one - i did for many hours with the initial automatical default settings too, to check the ram quality, was perfect for many hours, so ok too, no bad ram initially too-; was so stable for all my XP software installs operations etc.. that i forgot it thereafter, to be true..why it stayed like that till that moment (incidently).. but i preferred to mention it 'just in case' though, yes. i also did not push at all the dimm voltages in the process, it was always far inside the specs at 2.05V to be exact -usual for that ram too up to those numbers easy for it. i did not push the ram voltages either so..).
    The problem ONLY appears when i wanted to unplug the *initially* badly connected D-bracket headers so (inverted headers.. but that caused NO problems either so far too for the system stability.. only the LEDs were of course not working so far..) : i did the error to NOT switch off the power supply. :(
    *then* immediately the system shut down... and above situation appeared. ,(
    BUT all was working perfect before.. ram setting included so. ,((
    So my simple questions now too ;
    - do you know what means *exactly* the d-bracket message 'Testing RTC" (123 GREEN, 4 nothing).. initial bios problem, isn't it?? other ways to recover it now?? ,((
    - is it a WELL KNOWN PROBLEM when we try to disconnect and replug too hastily the d-bracket headers without switching off the power supply (*my* main erorr here, it seems :( :( ) ????
    ... and of course, do you think it could have *fried* another key component (cpu, ram -?? why i reminded the setting, just in case-?-, video card? .. ) with that d-bracket initial disconnection error ... ,(
    as i said, i have no secondary c2d/ddr2 motherboard here : no way to test the cpu and ddr2 modules on another motherboard to be sure too here. :( i absolutely can't know if they have been damaged or not, here.. :( :(
    any other idea for the motherboard itself though ??? ,(
    once again, thx a lot for any suggestions and precisions on that problem (is that a COMMON well known problem with the d-bracket, when we unplug and replug it without extrem care like i did -my main inattention error it seems.. mainly because all was so stable before too.. ((( - without shutting down the power supply/system FIRST ???? can it be possible 'only' that shut down all the system??? (( )
    thx in advance again +

  • P6N SLI Platinum Won't Load Vista or XP

    I trying to load an OS on a new build, but have run into an issue. The build went well, but the OS won't load.
    While trying to load Vista (32bit) it says "Loading Operating System" and the progress bar goes all the way to the end but then never gets any further. It just sits there.
    So, not being familiar with Vistas load I thought I would tried XP Home SP2. With this I am at least able to partition the drives and choose quick format but once it gets to 20% this too freezes.
    So far I have gone into BIOS and chosen to load both safe defaults and optimized defaults, which makes no difference. I have also tried removing one or the other of the memory sticks, again no help.
    Here is the system particulars.....
    MSI P6N SLI Platinum LGA 775 NVIDIA nForce 650i SLI ATX MB
    Intel Core 2 Duo E6600 2.4GHz 775 Processor
    Antec Truepower Trio 650w PSU
    G.SKILL 2GB (2 x 1GB) 240-Pin DDR2 SDRAM DDR2 800 (PC2 6400)
    1 - Western Digital Caviar 200GB 7200 RPM SATA 3.0Gb/s Hard Drive
    1 - Western Digital Caviar 250GB 7200 RPM SATA 3.0Gb/s Hard Drive
    1 - GIGABYTE GeForce 7300GT 256MB GDDR2 PCI Express x16 Video card
    1 - DVD drive
    1 - Sony Floppy
    Everything is brand new. Any help would be greatly appreciated 

    Quote
    Regarding Dual Channel Mode:
    Am I reading the manual wrong? In the illustration it shows 4 DIMMS, the closest to the CPU being DIMM1, followed by DIMM3 (which are yellow), then DIMM2 and lastly DIMM4 (which are orange), and it states that in order to take advantage of dual channel to place the memory in DIMMS 1 & 2 and/or DIMMS 3 & 4
    Sorry.  I did not realize MSI relabeled the DIMMs. You are right of course.
    [CPU] - DIMM1 - DIMM23 - DIMM32 - DIMM4
    [CPU] - SLOT1 - SLOT2 - SLOT3 - SLOT4

  • P6n sli platinum + e4300 oc

    I've read tons of posts on forums, but most just give FSB speeds, not actual numbers to use in setting the system clock, so how do we know what to use actually?
    When do you use the 1:1 ratio? or any of the others if your motherboard BIOS doesn't let you manually set your memory multiplier?
    I have the updated BIOS from MSI LiveUpdater and Web
    I've Disabled the following in BIOS
    Execute Bit Disable
    Set Limit CPUID MaxVal to 3
    HPET
    CPU Smart FAN Target
    D.O.T. Control
    Intel EIST
    All Spread Spectrum including:
    CPU Spread Spectrum
    PCIE Spread Spectrum
    CPU/LDT Spread Spectrum
    SATA Spread Spectrum
    Questions
    System Clock-Auto,Linked,Manual
    Which is best and when to use for what?
    I went to 1333 for a steady 3.0ghz overclock. Temps were below 40C
    at idle and were 65C under full load.
    Adjust CPU Ratio-To what?
    Stock shows 9, but can go from 6-9 as well.
    Last night I got to FSB1600
    Mem 800
    with 8x multiplier
    very fast, but lost settings on re-boot. So basically unstable.
    CPU Voltage-Try to not increase this by first overclocking as much as I 
    can on stock voltage, but if it becomes unstable or won't boot, I just increase it how I see fit based on stability right? I just want a good bootable computer to use daily for about 3 hours and 48hrs on weekends.
    Not too much into games yet, but will once I get speakers and a better monitor. Mostly business/student needs.
    Memory Voltage-Stock is: Timing 5-5-5-15
    Voltage 1.8 - 2.0 
    I got this to 2.2 and everything was fine.
    I can manually set it to 4-4-4-12 1T as well.
    NB Voltage-I got this as high as I could and it worked great, I think it was 1.7.I heard on forums that the higher you go the better for overclocking. Plus it's got a fan on it stock and I don't care about noise fan at all.
    SB Voltage-I got this to 1.6 and it was fine too. But it's not cooled so how much is too much?
    FSB VTT Voltage-I read that if you go to 20% it stabilizes your rig when
    you overclock, so I set it and it worked great.
    My Setup
    Intel Core 2 Duo E4300 Allendale 1.8GHz
    ZALMAN CNPS9500 LED 92mm 2 Ball Cooling Fan with Heatsink
    Arctic Silver 5 Thermal Compound 
    MSI P6N SLI Platinum 650i
    G.SKILL 2GB (2 x 1GB) DDR2 800 (PC2 6400) Dual Channel
    COOLER MASTER Centurion 5 CAC-T05 Case
    Thermaltake TR2 ATX 430W
    EVGA GeForce 8600GT 256MB GDDR3 PCI Express x16 Video Card
    Western Digital Caviar SE 160GB 7200 RPM SATA 3.0Gb
    $700 exactly with shipping from NEWEGG
    PURE BUDGET BUILD

    Hello welcome to the forum,
    Quote
    System Clock-Auto,Linked,Manual
    Which is best and when to use for what?
    I went to 1333 for a steady 3.0ghz overclock. Temps were below 40C
    at idle and were 65C under full load.
    System clock I believe is how the memory freq is generated. "Auto" would be automatic, "Linked" would be linked to FSB speed, "Manual" wold be manually setting the speed.
    65c on the cores or the CPU? Because if it's the cores, drop down, anywhere over 60c and your CPU may start skipping cycles.
    Quote
    Adjust CPU Ratio-To what?
    Stock shows 9, but can go from 6-9 as well.
    Last night I got to FSB1600
    Mem 800
    with 8x multiplier
    very fast, but lost settings on re-boot. So basically unstable.
    CPU ratio is the multiplier in which you times the FSB speed to generate/set the CPU clock. E.g:
    Code: [Select]
    FSB of 100x10 (cpu ratio) = 1000MHz CPU core speed.
    Quote
    CPU Voltage-Try to not increase this by first overclocking as much as I
    can on stock voltage, but if it becomes unstable or won't boot, I just increase it how I see fit based on stability right? I just want a good bootable computer to use daily for about 3 hours and 48hrs on weekends.
    Not too much into games yet, but will once I get speakers and a better monitor. Mostly business/student needs.
    yes only increase for stability, never increase because you think you may need too.
    Quote
    Memory Voltage-Stock is: Timing 5-5-5-15
    Voltage 1.8 - 2.0
    I got this to 2.2 and everything was fine.
    I can manually set it to 4-4-4-12 1T as well.
    They are fine, just don't go over 2.3v, your RAM chips will start to fry otherwise.
    Quote
    NB Voltage-I got this as high as I could and it worked great, I think it was 1.7.I heard on forums that the higher you go the better for overclocking. Plus it's got a fan on it stock and I don't care about noise fan at all.
    No, wrong way to do it. Do it like CPU VCore, only increase when stability is needed. Also monitor temperatures of NB as much as your CPU. Fan speeds don't bother me either, but temps do! Watch them at all times when overclocking.
    Quote
    SB Voltage-I got this to 1.6 and it was fine too. But it's not cooled so how much is too much?
    Only increase if you need to, the SB core is usually the last voltage that needs increasing.
    Quote
    FSB VTT Voltage-I read that if you go to 20% it stabilizes your rig when
    you overclock, so I set it and it worked great.
    It's the voltage you supply to the FSB bus, too much and you will kill the FSB and your mainboard will be a fancy paper weight. Only increase when stability is needed, just like every other voltage.

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