Paper punch effect?

I want to have a rectangle sit on the screen and then have letters "punched" out of it to make a word. Is this possible to do in Motion?

Sure. Type your text in the same color as the rectangle. Use an inverted image mask with the text as the source on the rectangle to "cut out" the text. Duplicate the text layer and apply a fly out behavior to it so that appears that text holes are punched through the rectangle.
Andy

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How to produce paper flicking effect?

I want to produce a title effect of some text built up from multiple pieces of paper "flicking" vertically into place so the text fades in and becomes more opaque with each page flicking into place. A bit like flicking through some printer paper.
Can anyone give me some tips on how best to approach such an effect in CS4?
TIA
Kevin

Thanks for your questions bogiesan, all good points.
So yes more like a "flipbook" animation; so say the word was "Shakespeare" it would first appear with a transparency of say 10% then there would be a series of transitions animating on the y axis like a piece of paper flpping into place say from a 45% angle into a 0% angle completing the placement of another layer of the transparency which would then increase say by another 10%
Thanks for your input on this :-)
Kevin

Flash to flash paper (losing effect)

When I export a flash file to flashpaper, I loose all of the
effects (shadow, bevel, etc). What am I doing wrong?
thanks!

No. your only option is to export separate SWFs or image sequences for each layer.
Mylenium

Zero Out Data on a SSD drive: Are my findings correct?

"Note: With OS X Lion and an SSD drive, Secure Erase and Erasing Free Space are not available in Disk Utility. These options are not needed for an SSD drive because a standard erase makes it difficult to recover data from an SSD. For more security, consider turning on FileVault 2 encryption when you start using the SSD drive."
http://support.apple.com/kb/HT3680
Seems to hard to believe, as I've seen some of the top participants here clearly say that first your set a new partition, then erase Macintosh HD, then zero out data?

Retired Engineer, do you have any references? What I have read says otherwise.
Drive Wear & Tear
What is your estimation of wear and tear on the flash by writing to 0's. What percentage of the drives total usage has been "wasted"? I thought even consumer drives where capable of 1000 - 10000 rewrites per cell, whereas enterprise SSDs are capable of over 100,000: http://www.computerworld.com/s/article/9112065/Solid_state_disk_lackluster_for_l aptops_PCs?taxonomyId=19&pageNumber=1&taxonomyName=Storage.
"For one thing, it matters whether the SSD drive uses SLC or MLC memory. SLC generally endures up to 100,000 write cycles or writes per cell, while MLC can endure anywhere from 1,000 to 10,000 writes before it begins to fail, according to Fujitsu's Hagberg. For its part, Western Digital's laptop hard-disk drive boasts up to 600,000 write cycles."
That's an old artcile too. Slightly newer, in late 2008 Micron/Sun achieved SLC NAND chips capable of over 1,000,000 write cycles: http://investors.micron.com/releasedetail.cfm?ReleaseID=440650 . I imagine things have gotten slightly better in the last 4 years.
Data Wiping
This paper (http://static.usenix.org/events/fast11/tech/full_papers/Wei.pdf) states, "In most cases, overwriting the entire disk twice was sufﬁcient to sanitize the disk, regardless of the previous state of the drive."
Going on however, "Overall, the results for overwriting are poor: while overwriting appears to be effective in some cases across a wide range of drives, it is clearly not universally reliable. It seems unlikely that an individual or organization expending the effort to sanitize a device would be satisﬁed with this level of performance."
The best method I have found for wiping an SSD on a Mac is the (SAFE) Scramble and Finally Erase process as described in this UC San Diego research paper: http://cseweb.ucsd.edu/users/swanson/papers/TR-cs2011-0963-Safe.pdf.
According to their paper, the effectiveness of the procedure is equiavlent to degaussing a magentic drive. Another tidbit, the SAFE technique is replicated by Sandforce controller when someone reformats the drive (as mentioned by Linc Davis above, however, I believe this is specific only to Sandforce controllers).
References:
http://www.schneier.com/blog/archives/2011/03/erasing_data_fr.html
http://www.computerworld.com/s/article/9211519/Can_data_stored_on_an_SSD_be_secu red_
http://arstechnica.com/security/2011/03/ask-ars-how-can-i-safely-erase-the-data- from-my-ssd-drive/
http://static.usenix.org/events/fast11/tech/full_papers/Wei.pdf
http://cseweb.ucsd.edu/users/swanson/papers/TR-cs2011-0963-Safe.pdf

Is there something wrong with the iPhone calc app?

The other day I needed to show my son how many paper punch cards would be needed to compete with the flash memory on my iPhone 4. Each punch card had 480 spaces on it, that could correspond to bits. In order to work out how many punch cards would be needed, I had to first figure out how many bits there were in 32Gb. The following calculation needs to be done in landscape mode, otherwise you ae unable to see the numbers properly on the display.
8 x 1024 x 1024 x 1024 x 32 = 274,877,906,944
Now for the interesting bit.
If I divide the amount of bits held in a 32Gb by the amount of bits on the old paper punch card I should get - 572,662,306.1333333333 recurring cards required.
Strangely the iPhone calc app believes that the number is just shy of 6 cards at 5.7266230613333e+8.
Now I know this is not some strange scientific notation because if I divide by a whole number such as 100 or 400, etc... then it gets the answer right. Further more with really big numbers, the iPhone calc app seems to loose the plot and provide incorrect answers. Other apps I have for calculation get the answer right, but not the iphone app.
Before anyone points out that Flash storage is done in 1000Mb's instead of 1024Mb's, I know. I was just doing a demonstration based on the actual figure of 32Gb, using the correct numbers based on a binary base. Storage manufacturers often use this as there manufacturing techniques do not work in the same way as the maths.
Anyone else seen this problem, and if so, what strange numbers can we get, highlighting the problem, so that it gets fixed in the next update. I think I shall have to try this out in Numbers on the iPhone, see if the problem is there to. As a passing shot I feel that this is a fundamental problem that needs to be addressed, and relatively quickly.
I am currently using iOS 5.0.1 on the iphone and iPad.

Amazing...yet again an excuse for a 16 digit display that is incapable of displaying 572 million.... But funnily enough it will display something proper when divided by 400, or in other words, it resorts to moron system and prints '687,194,767.36'. Maybe we should all write everything in scientific notation...and forget this silly simplistic system of using numbers and commas to designate large numbers. For all you scientific types, they are no longer millionaires, no they will just be renamed "1.0e+6's". Even better, we could rename millionaires row, to something scientific. Yeah I can see that taking off.
@tonefox, thanks for clearing that up for me, I wondered what all those strange new fangled words were for...
I give up, you guys win. Asking questions here is like nailing jelly to a wall...

Has anyone come up with a way to stop Earpods falling out?

Apparently (according to the Ad) these Earpods are actually designed for all ears. Though they sound pretty good, actually comparable to my old Bose IE2 headphones, sadly, they just fall out. One ear is worse than the other but essentially unusable. There must be a way to put them in a silicon cover thing like the Bose. Just hope Apple do as I have read quite a few posts already, to be fair, trade descriptions are being contravened. I’d understand if I had mutated ‘lugholes’ but they really aren’t

I have worked out way of modifying the earpods so they don't fall out. I cut 4-5mm off the big ends of some ear plugs, punched holes in them with a ring-binder paper punch then glued them to the tips of the earpods with loctite 406 (a superglue type of adhesive that works with some plastics). Only use a small amount of the glue though or the ear plugs will soak it up and get too hard to be comfortable. When the glue has set, compress the earplug material as much as possible, then push the earpod ito your ear and hold it in place for 30 seconds or so to let the foam expand, then the earpod won't keep falling out.

Do the rubber feet on the MBP fall off???

Hi -
I got my MacBook Pro back in June.
The rubber feet on this thing are great, keep it gripped to the table, keep it elevated slightly...
Problem I've encounterd recently is that the rubber feet are getting some scratches on them.
I suspect it being due to my just putting it on a table, the table must have at times, had little crumbs or debris or something that could have caused it to scratch? I don't know.
The scratches are minimal - they are, for the most part, cosmetic.
My fear is that these will fall off. I've read that Apple keeps the MBP overnight and wants $50 to replace the feet, and that the feet actually screw into the case.
With all that being said, is it likely that the feet on the MBP will just fall off or break off??
I'm loving my MacBook... but seeing how these rubber feet get scratches so easily, without really even having anything sharp touching them, I am a bit concerned. I've put it on a surface, and I'm guessing something very small left over had scratched the rubber feet. I'm not sure... I'm not an expert on that. The scratches are minimal, I'd consider them to be cosmetic, but this is still a concern of mine.
Thanks.

Sunny's mommy wrote:
You can get them from the Apple store. I know the geniuses definitely have them, or they used to. Don't know about the people actually working on the floor.
For the new model with the wide black feet? Already?
I take it you now have a paper-punch-sized hole where the foot was, correct?
What I might do while we wait for replacement MB AL feet to become widely available (in any case), is get some Avery removable colored dots to cover up the hole(s). If at all possible, if the missing foot is from the screwed-on case rather than the access panel, I'd move a remaining foot from the removable panel to the case. The feet look as if they can be pushed out from inside.
I'm not sure how they are installed on the MB AL case, but it'd seem you got a poorly glued one.
So far we're fine. If enough people report foot loss here's hoping Apple'l put up a tech note about it.
It's conceiveable that your foot failed so early because the MB was exposed to an unusual temperature/humidity environment, or an out-of-spec glue job slipped through QA.
Every one of these new MB's & MB Pros are warrantied till at least October of the coming year, so it shouldn't cost you anything if there are enough instances of foot loss reported.
''86

Printing Paper Changes not Taking Effect

Hi,
I recently upgraded to Windows 7 from XP and I also have Acrobat 9 Pro installed.
When I use a different size page, in this case 11x18, and go to print it will start out as our printer default 8 1/2x11 which is should be. I would then proceed to go to the printer preferences and change the paper size and click "ok" to get back to the main print page where I would notice that the print preview would not update ot the new size. If I proceed to print with it showing the 8 1/2x11, even though it is set to 11x18, it would scale it to the 8 1/2 x11. What I have found to work around it is if I click and then unclick the button "Choose Paper Source by PDF Page Size" it would scale the paper to the correct size. I use different size paper and do not want to change the default size.
This is sort of a hassle and I sometimes notice that when I'm going from 11x17 to 23x20 it would not even update and would not allow me to print on the correct paper size.
I am using a sharp AR-M207 printer. I have tried to use the PCL/PS/PPD drivers for the latest version and they all have the same effect. Additionally Acrobat 9 Pro is also up to date.
Is there an update or a patch somewhere or another reason why this is occuring. I am not included to switch printer mainly because I do need a large format printer and its difficult to find one.
Thanks,

Daniel,
Yes I am currently using the most recent version of Acrobat and Printer Drivers.
I have not tried the Help > Repair option. I actually noticed that this issue occurs on my laptop as well, same operating system (Windows 7). It is possibly an issue because of compatability with Windows 7 although there might be a workaround for it.
I have tried a different printer, ie my laptop, and the same problem occured.
I can look for outdated Sharp print drivers but that might be difficult to find.
Also I currently use Windows 7 64bit.

Problem with Aged paper effect

I have a clip that Has veen trimmed, cropped, and Ken Burnsed.
When I added the Aged Paper effect, the clip looked great except for a white stripe on one edge.
I have tried changing all kinds of parameters but I still get the white edge on the right.

I've just tried it and found no problem.
Are you using it on the complete frame or doing something peculiar?
You could try shutting down FCP X and trashing the preferences.
Many weird things happen as a result of corrupt preferences which can create a vast range of different symptoms, so whenever FCP X stops working properly in any way, trashing the preferences should be the first thing you do using this free app.
http://www.digitalrebellion.com/prefman/
Shut down FCP X, open PreferenceManager and in the window that appears:-
1. Ensure that only FCP X is selected.
2. Click Trash
The job is done instantly and you can re-open FCP X.
There is absolutely no danger in trashing preferences and you can do it as often as you like.
The preferences are kept separately from FCP X and if there aren't any when FCP X opens it automatically creates new ones . . . instantly.

Old Paper Effects in After Effects (or Digieffects)?

Hi! Is there an easy way to simulate an "older paper" look in After Effects, or possibly with any of the Digieffects plugins? (I have many of their products, including Delirium, Berserk, and Aurorix, a few others.)
Thanks!

What do you understand as "old paper"? Unless the paper itself needs to fold and bend, you can find enough textures/ photos on the internet that serve this purpose. CGTextures and similar sites surely offer enough of them, you may just need to combine different ones, e.g. dirty concrete with some ink splats, then adjust the colors to look like paper. Absolutely possible. Failing that, you can easily create some effects of your own and scan the resulting sheet. in any case, it's usually a lot easier to base such work on real sources than trying to create it artificially...
Mylenium

Is there a Tool or function (in Illustrator or InDesign) that selects any shape and "punches" a "hole" of that shape all the way down through multiple objects to the paper or artboard?

Is there a Tool or function (in Illustrator or InDesign) that selects any shape and “punches” a “hole” of that shape all the way down through multiple objects to the paper or artboard?

In Illustrator, group the objects that you want to punch through, and use the transparency pallet.

We bought a new computer and re downloaded lightroom3, now when I go and try to Develope my picture when I go into Presets the Punch, black and white effects ect won't pull up. How do I fix that?

We bought a new computer and re downloaded lightroom3, now when I go and try to Develope my picture when I go into Presets the Punch, black and white effects ect won't pull up. How do I fix that?Photoshop Lightroom

After I upgraded to Mavericks I was also having this message when I tried to update. There was a previous post about this problem which offered this simple solution which worked for me:
b0n0b0
Re: Recently upgraded to Maverick from SnowLeopard. Unable to get updates from App store.
Mar 15, 2014 9:05 AM (in response to Terence Devlin)
Got it! Thanx. What I did was go to my account, check that they had my new ID and Password which they did, then hit reset button. All fixed.

Ragged Paper Effect or Similar

I'm trying to create an effect that looks as if a font was written on paper. Where the ink is not perfect and parts of the paper show through. Almost like a dingy effect as a mask.
I have a font I'm using, but the effect I'm trying to acheive is not built into the font. Perhaps this is a Photoshop requirment but I'm working in Illustrator and my font is converted to an outline. So I figured I would start here first.
Thanks in advance for any help that can be provided.
William-01

Read up on opacity masks, particularly applying textures and irregular patterns to them. This is what you want.

TRYING TO GET A WATERCOLOR PAPER EFFECT USING PHOTSHOP 6.0

I use Photoshop 6.0 and just created the outhouse image. The top image was created SEVERAL years ago but cannot recall the steps I took to achieve that watercolor paper, or "natty" looking paper effect. I must have visited a link and never saved it. But my question is in regards how to apply that same look to the outhouse image. Is there a site, or page you could direct me to, that offers step by step visuals to attain that look?

Phenomenal! I really appreciate it Mark....this
is it! Yes! Btw, is there a good site with picture pictorial step by step methods to achieve certain
effects in Photoshop6? Curious! Here is a visual tutorial I put together for others....after I got frustrated with tr
ying to learning "halftoning" techniques! Here is link:
http://www.danscartoons.com/photoshop_halftone_tutorial.htm
Let me know what you think and if there are sites similar to this, that offer step-by-step click / here+click ? there types of tutorials. Thanks!
Dan

Torn paper effect

Hi there, folks
I'm working on a video that exists within the pages of a book. We won't be doing page turns, but at one point I've been asked to have the movie get torn off the screen.
What I was thinking of trying was to pre-tear a piece of paper. Position it over some green screen paper. Create careful marks in the corners of each side of the torn page (4 in total, two per torn side). Shoot the paper being pulled away frame by frame in highest resolution on my 5D, so it will be huge. This way the camera can still follow the marks when they will be off screen after resizing in AE. Then I'd import the stills as a movie sequence and track both side separately. I would then attach the movie to both sides separately, using the tracking data, and finally key out the green.
Does this sound like a silly way to do it? Any better suggestions?

This is a good starting point:
http://aeportal.blogspot.com/2010/05/paper-rip-free-after-effects-project.html

Paper punch effect?

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