PE to YouTube results low quality with effects added

I uploaded a video with no effects added to YouTube via the Flash preset for YouTube. The resolution was good - just as it was in Premiere. However, once I added effects (mirror, brightness) and uploaded the revised video, the resulting YouTube video was of really poor quality. There seems to be no way to change the preset settings for uploading to YouTube, so I also saved it for PC/DVD, which didn't work either. Any suggestions? Thank you.

YouTube is constantly squeezing and shaping their compression methods to get more video on their bandwith -- usually at the expense of our video quality.
Rather than using the Premiere Elements YouTube share, try creating your video separately and loading it manually, per the FAQs to the right of this forum. You'll get somewhat better results.
http://forums.adobe.com/thread/390608?tstart=0

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I recorded my video in High Definition. WHY does it upload to Youtube in low quality?

I just bought Premiere 13 hoping it would WORK for me as none of the other versions I bought did. It worked great to edit my video. I then shared it with Youtube, but it uploaded in low definition (360). The video was recorded in High Definition as our my other videos already on Youtube.
What do I do to get my videos to upload to Youtube in High Definition as I recorded them????
Thanks, Frammajoy

Joy
Please explain further.
If you create a Premiere Elements 1920 x 1080 project and you upload it to YouTube with the High Definition for YouTube - 1920 x 1080 preset and, at YouTube,
you set the viewing of the YouTube player to HD, are you saying that the quality is poor? In addition, the YouTube player is a 16:9 player. Are your uploads presenting with black borders when viewed on YouTube when the upload is done using the Premiere Elements YouTube built in feature?
In other words, are you saying that are not being set back by YouTube player automatically setting the viewing for 480p or something lower than that rather than automatically setting for HD 1920 x 1080 viewing?
Your opening thread description seems to say otherwise.
I then shared it with Youtube, but it uploaded in low definition (360). The video was recorded in High Definition as our my other videos already on Youtube.
What do I do to get my videos to upload to Youtube in High Definition as I recorded them????
Again, if you create a 1920 x 1080 project, upload with High Definition for YouTube - 1920 x 1080 preset, then the rest is up to YouTube and its conversion
process.
If that is the case, that is a YouTube preference and not Premiere Elements. This is not Adobe here. Rather user to user. And, I am not affiliated with Adobe in any way. So, my only interest is you and helping you move forward in your Premiere Elements projects user to user based on the details that we exchange.
Please help me to understand why your reply was
It isn't Youtube that is the problem
Thank you.
ATR

Low quality image when adding to iMovie

I have 2 movies that I want to remove some parts, but when adding to iMovie, it changed some video adjustments to a worst quality image.
This 2 movies had already bad image quality from the source, because they have very darkness frames and were filmed in VHS.
But they were reasonable to see, from Apple TV.
Now in iMovie they became worst.
The source is H.264, AAC 1280x720 FPS 23,97
The source is H.264, AAC 1024x576 FPS 23,97
What can I do ?

Available ?
More or less.
And how can I send a sample ?
Depends on the size of the sample and what space is available to you on a server. You can usually send snippets as e-email attachments up to about 10 MBs. If you have a MobileMe account, server space provided by your ISP, or other server space provided by a third-party service, then you can upload larger samples for FTP or webpage use and simply post/send me the URL, reference movie, or QTL.
When the movie goes to iMovie, the brightness decreases and the contrasts became more darkness.
Have you tried playing with the built-in "Video Adjustments" at all? Not the easiest thing to use but you can make some adjustments using it. In such work, "Less is usually best." By this I mean you should apply as little adjustment as you can get away with using.
Normally I would start with a "Level" adjustment. While there is an "Auto" button you can press to get some idea as to what the application says you need for a particular frame or range of frames, this setting can vary drastically depending on the individual frame being tested. So it would usually be a good idea to expand your clip and "test" a number of frame ranges to see what is a "typical" setting for the clip. If the settings are fairly uniform, you can go with the suggested setting or something reasonably close to save "blowing out" highlights. On the other hand, if the settings vary drastically, you my either wish to select an "in-between" setting of your own manually, or split the clip into sub-segments which can then be adjusted individually. NOTE: the auto "Level" adjustment does not affect other settings -- only the clipping points and does not include controls for half or quarter tone adjustments. Still it is my preferred starting point for making adjustments.
You can also try adjust the "Exposure" setting. This will tend to allow you to adjust the "Brightness" and "Contrast" uniformly by centering your color channel histogram but can easily be overdriven. "Brightness" and "Contrast" can, of course, be adjusted individually if you prefer but you may find the "Exposure" control easier to handle where the content is more uniform with regard to shadows and highlights. Lastly, adjustment of any of the previously mentioned controls will usually have some effect on color saturation. While they do not change the actual setting, they do tend to desaturate color as the other controls "lighten" the cast of your frame images. So, don't be surprised if the results "wash out" somewhat and you may need to touch up the saturation. But, once again, go easy as the saturation doe not increase uniformly and tends to "blotch" highlights and/or create color shifts in these areas.
About the only controls left are the individual color channel levels. I don't normally recommend playing with these arbitrarily as they then to shift the color cast/white balance of your content. As to the White balance itself, the "eyedropper" had little or no effect on the content I tested so I assume the it either did not work as described or the sample white/grey points I used for sampling did not require adjustment. As to the Balance Wheel," it does work well but like the color channel adjustments may cause more harm than help most novice users.

BF3 poor audio quality with Dolby Digital Live anabled.

Hello, i have a X-Fi Fatality card connected to audio receiver with the Toslink cable with the Dolby Digital Live enabled, and in BF3 i hear that bullets sounds more like popcorn crack very low quality, with BF2 the audio was awesome. Anyone else having the same problem?

There are several Fatality cards - which one do you have? OS is Win7 i guess? So which driver are you using? Did you try Danial_Ks Support Pack? [url=http://forums.creative.com/t5/Sound-Blaster/SB-X-Fi-series-Support-Pack-2-5-10-25-2011/td-p/587995">http://forums.creative.com/t5/Sound-Blaster/SB-X-Fi-series-Support-Pack-2-5-10-25-2011/td-p/587995[/url] . You also installed newest patch for BF3?

Low quality when using Ken Burns effect

Hi,
I tried to import hi-res photos from iPhoto 6 to iMovie HD 6, adding some zooming with Ken Burns. The resulting clips are very blurry, lots of artefacts - very low quality. Is anyone else having this problem? It happens on my iBook as well on my iMac. Or am I just expecting to much?
Thanks for any advice, Patrick
iBook G4 800GHz, iMac G4 17" 1.25Ghz Mac OS X (10.4.4)

Hi Sue,
Have you ever tried Photo to iMovie? Apple even recommends it.
Yes, I know Photo to iMovie. But if I buy an integrated solution like iLife'06, it makes no sense to buy additional shareware programs to correct some flaws of it.
Isn't it possible to raise the quality of a Ken Burns effect, I would say in iLife '05 it was much better.
So I am looking forward to an update of iMovie HD 6...
Kind regards,
Patrick

How can I replace one low quality source with another high quality one ?

Am I really this dumb or is it really this hard ?
I have one timeline / project / edit that essentially references one long source clip / event / file.
I have a newer higher quality transcoded version of the same source and want to replace the original lower quality version and end up with the same edited result just with better quality images !?
It's the same frame rate and image dimensions but "relink" tells me the new file is not "similar" enough and won't do it !
Why is this so hard ? Is there a way to export a good old fashioned edl and then just reconform using the new source ?
What if I wanted to to replace low res offline footage with finished colour-corrected material and output a finished master - would that be this clueless as well ?
Please let me know the problem is between the chair and the keyboard - not between the hard disk and the power cord !

Guessing that when you created the higher quality media, it was done outside of FCP and probably changed some important metadata that the app is looking for. Or perhaps there is a difference between the original audio and the new audio.
Anyway, Luis' advice about the replace edit seems like the easiest solution.
a_mumford wrote:
What if I wanted to to replace low res offline footage with finished colour-corrected material and output a finished master - would that be this clueless as well?
The usual way to do offline online is within FCP – creating the proxies and then using Preferences to switch back to and from.
If you sent it out for grading, the Relink should work fine. If you haven't seen this kb doc, it's worth reviewing.
Russ

Photoshop Elements 11 Organizer: Full screen view of lower quality than with PSE 10 and before?!

Upgrading from PSE 10 to 11, I noticed that when I watch my images with the organizer in PSE 11 in full screen view mode (F11), while the images load faster, they are shown in a lower quality than in PSE 10 or any other version of PSE that I owned before. In PSE 11, after the initial viewing in full screen (in the "fit screen" mode), when I click with the mouse on an image to display the "100%" view, there is a delay and the program says "Loading...", after which the 100% view in the full screen mode appears. When I then click another time with the mouse on the image to get back to "fit screen" mode, I get an image of better quality than during the initial view!
So it seems like the program first gives a faster, but lower quality view of the image in full screen mode, and only after the user requests a 100% view, it actually loads the image with full detail, which is then preserved when going back to the "fit screen" view. This is a serious issue for me, because I also use PSE organizer to present my pictures to other people, and I don't want to show them some lower quality versions of my images, but the full quality ones, without having to first choose "100% view" and then go back to "fit screen".
How can I make the PSE 11 organizer give me a full-quality full screen image right away, as this used to be the case in PSE10 and before?
(I have both versions, PSE 11 and PSE 10, now on the same computer and tested this to confirm that the PSE 11 initial full screen view is of lower quality than the PSE 10 one. Also in PSE 10, there is practically no delay for displaying the "100%" view afterwards, indicating that the image was loaded with full detail right away.)

- Update:
* Adobe's senior support level has replied to me about this issue as follows:
"Thank you for contacting Adobe.
When you press the F11 button, Organizer 11 uses the Bicubic
interpolation mainly because it is less processor intensive compared to
Bicubic Sharper, and it helps to create the preview on the fly, rather
than based on the thumbnail cache.
When you zoom out from the 100% view, Elements Organizer uses Bicubic
Sharper. This is because Bicubic Sharper is used for image reduction, so
if the 100% view is larger than the available screen space, it will need
to shrink. The Bicubic Sharper images may look more crisp however, Like
any sharpening algorithm, Bicubic Sharper introduces halos and
edge-enhancement artifacts. Those halos are typically slight, but any
further sharpening (which you'll need when preparing an image for print,
for example) will exaggerate them.This is expected behavior. The
Organizer isn't great for determining exact quality, I recommend you to
use Elements Editor for this purpose.
Thank you,
Bobby Johnson,
Adobe Technical Support."
* My reply on this to Adobe is:
"Hello Bobby,
thank you for your reply. Now at least we are talking about the same thing.
Why I am wondering about the choice to use the "Bicubic" algorithm when pressing F11 in PSE 11 is that all previous versions of PSE that I owned (which spans from PSE 6 to PSE 10) did use the "Bicubic Sharper" algorithm right away when pressing F11. So apparently Adobe didn't worry about processor intensity of this algorithm then, and computers are getting all the time more powerful.
It is true that in some situations, the "Bicubic Sharper" algorithm may introduce halos and edge-enhancement artifacts, as you write. On the other hand, especially on smaller resolution screens, the results of the "Bicubic Sharper" algorithm may look more crisp and lively, while the ones of the "Bicubic" algorithm may look more flat and lack fine detail. This is not only my personal opinion, but as I have brought up this topic in several forums, I can see that I am not alone here.
So assuming that the question about preferring "Bicubic Sharper" or "Bicubic" as a default algorithm when pressing F11 is partly a matter of taste, and partly a matter of the hardware the user has available, why can Abobe not give the user an option to choose which one he/she would prefer? For instance, F11 gives full screen view with "Bicubic" applied, and CTRL+F11 with "Bicubic sharper"? Or make this an option in the preferences?
As I am using the PSE organizer also to present pictures to other people (and I know many people who use it that way too), I would like to show them my pictures as sharp and detail-rich as possible. Therefore, I would highly appreciate an option as described above to be implemented in the PSE 11 organizer via an update. It should be fairly easy from a programming point of view, since both algorithms are already contained in the program anyway."
* If you support this suggestion of mine as stated above, please also contact Adobe accordingly! The more support requests they get for this, the more likely it is that they will implement this update! You may mention my case number 0184046323 for reference.

Low Quality Youtube video

I purchased my Blackberry storm on the release date and the first thing I did was go to youtube and see how the videos looked. The answer is... terrible, and the audio is pretty bad too. I have downloaded all the updates for my Storm and the youtube videos still look just as bad. However, whenever I play videos from my media card the quality is amazing. So basically I have two questions.
1. Does everyone experience this low quality issue or is there something wrong with my blackberry/internet connection?
2. Is there anyway to fix it, or plans to release an update in the future to do so?
Any help is greatly appreciated.

Well I've the same problem but when I surfed the internet I found that I must clear the browser cache then reboot the device
Try it ... I didn't work on my blackberry curve 9320 .... it may work on you
Hope this helped

HT1044 Will an iphoto order print with low quality warnings on it?

Will an iphoto order print with low quality warnings on it?

I think so but if you're orderikng large photos they may be a bit fuzzy depending on the pixel dimensions. What are the pixel dimensions of the image giving the warning and what size print are you ordering?
Here are the results of a print test that I ran. The pixel dimensions are the minimum that won't give a warning for the sizes shown:
OT

Why is it that when I connect my iPhone 5S to my Windows Vista computer, the photos made with my iPhone are all of very low quality and most of them are turned upside down?

Why is it that when I connect my iPhone 5S to my Windows Vista computer, the photos made with my iPhone are all of very low quality and most of them are turned upside down?
On another note, the iPhone tells me that it's ''busy'' when opening a photo on the computer.
(I tried restarting my PC, connecting via another USB port, importing using PhotoStream, etc...)

Are you using the front or rear camera? When you say they are low quality, are you referring to file/pixel size, or how the picture looks? As far as upside down, how are you holding the phone? Older versions of Windows have issues reading the Metadata from the pictures and will not display the same.

TS1135 Low quality warning on a photo in a photobook. I understand the warning but I still want to go ahead with my design, will it get printed or will the page be deleted?

Low quality warning on a photo in a photobook. I understand the warning but I still want to go ahead with my design, will it get printed or will the page be deleted?

Sorry 1 further question please..
the pixel width is 1,076 and heigth is 793 and I want to have this photo as a background in a 13 x 10 inch book
Will this be ok?
Thanks

How to work with low quality offline media efficiently?

I have a late 2013 rMBP with an NVIDA GPU that is a fantastic platform for editing when I am travelling. The downside is that it doesn't have allot of storage and when I have high bit rate material it can struggle. I often shoot DNxHD 220 on an Atomos Ninja 2 and for a recent project I used AME to convert all of this to DNxHD 36. I then kept the original files on my NAS and copied the low quality files to my laptop to edit while travelling. This worked really nicely, but when it comes to rendering out the finished project it can be laborious to switch the media files. I have numerous clips and I had to go to each one and follow these steps: Adobe Premiere Pro Help | Create clips for offline editing
Is there a way of replacing all clips in a bin rather than doing it one by one? This time I had 30 clips which was annoying but not the end of the world. For future projects this could be many more clips and currently the process documented in the Premier help is going to be time consuming and annoying. Does anyone have any tips or are there new features in the latest CC updates which allow this type of functionality to be done in bulk?

shooternz uses a LOT of digital intermediate workflow ... he might have ideas on this, hope he chimes in ...
Neil

How to get lower-quality previews when working with Full-HD?

I'm working with Full-HD video, but I don't need preview (rendered) files to be 1920x1080 too. It takes a lot of disk space and a lot of time to render preview files.
Is there a way to have them some lower quality? For example 720x405 resolution would be enough.
But when I want to make a final export, I need to get Full-HD video.
Thanks!

Use a Custom sequence and change the previews as desired.

Problems with "save for web" app low quality messed up images

Please help I have never had a problem with the "save for web" application before (over three years) I am currently running A.I. cs3 on windows vista. in the past whenever I save anything this way the images were always clean. as of yesterday everything I try to save through the save for web app the images are very low quality all the vector has jagged edges, it is very low rez looking and the file sizes are very small, half the size they normaly would be. What did I do to change the settings or better yet how can I get it back to the way it was.

Thank you for your help I moved the folder but it still did not fix this problem. it is also not just the jpg option under the save for web app but all the setting ie. gif, png, ect. ect. Also the the files sizes are much less, example I exported a design as a jpg with the quality setting about 6 the file size was 374kb when I exported the same design through the save for web app the file size was only 45 kb on the quilty setting of 100. further more in the preview screen of "save for web" the original images as well as the optimized both look messed up. The "save for web" app has always worked for me in the past never a problem and I use this app alot so it is very important.

How to republish stream with lower quality

Hey guys, I was wondering is there a way that I can receive stream on my broadcast server and then republish that stream with lower quality on the same broadcast server. I was reading server side API reference but I couldnt find anything like that.
Only thing I found is to use %i in FMLE Stream field and then broadcast same stream with different bitrates, but can I take live stream that is being broadcasted and republish it with lower quality/bitrate on the server side somehow?
Or there is another way to achieve this?
I am running FMS 4.5 and I am using FMLE to broadcast video to the server.
Thank you for your answers.

FMS can't transcode streams. What you could do is use FFMPEG to pull the stream from FMS and publish a transcoded stream back into FMS.
Alternately, you could use Wowza Media Server and their transcoder plugin (fairly easy), or Wowza and Xuggler (requires a fair amount of programming)

PE to YouTube results low quality with effects added

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