Performance 1080i, 720p, 480p

Just purchased Apple TV and downloaded a movie. Playback was "jumpy". Posted a question hear and learned that I missed choice to pick the AppleTV from the source to play direct from the box vice streaming. I did this and performacne was still poor (jumpy, picture freezes then runs fast to catch up, audio not in sync). I switched resolution to 720p and noticed some improvement. At 480p performance seems fine. Picture quality isn't that much different given downloaded movie isn't HD. Just doesn't seem that this should matter for direct playback. Why am I getting poor performance at 1080i?
Have played some other short videos and tehy seem fine.

I also experienced this when I first got apple tv.
When I unplugged and replugged to reboot, I could
play video at 1080i, 720p, and 480p without any
problems.
You are dead correct about this. I was having the same issue with a video I put though VisualHub once I rebooted I never droopeed a frame.
Thanks!

Similar Messages

1080i to 480p ?

In an earlier post I had asked a question about taking 1080i source material and generating a letterboxed. progressive SD DVD. Straight forward enough, but the fellow that answered also warned that, by going to 480p as opposed to 480i, the resolution would be cut in half. I really don't understand this, and, after a few tests, am not sure this really is what is happening. I guess the first question is how FCP converts 1080i to 480i. Does it average scan lines together? More confusing, if I start with 1080i (HDV) and take only odd or even fields, isn't that 540p? So where is the resolution loss when outputting to 480p SD? Lastly, what tools do we have that tell up if the resulting DVD is actually 480p?

Just so we're on the same page 480p usually means progressive-scan at a 854x480 frame size. It's also known as EDTV (aka Enhanced Definition Television).
Not too many options for recording to/or viewing that anymore. FOX network, before they went 720p, used to broadcast their digital signal in EDTV. And the earliest plasmas - including the entry-level models today - boast a 854x480 resolution (and are progressive-scan).
The "p" involved in DVD authoring is 24p, where your video content is encoded at 23.98 frames per second.
But, I take it, you are talking about giving a progressive-scan look to your downcoverted 480i footage? (what some folks like to call 30p)
If that is the case, what I believe you've been warned about is using the Deinterlace filter in Final Cut - that simply throws out every other scanline (and doubles the existing ones) to give footage a progressive-scan look.
Within the confines of Final Cut Studio, you can create 30p-look material by using Frame Controls in Compressor 2 or later (set the Deinterlace option to Better, and Output Fields to Progressive) but this takes a lot of time. You might be old and gray by the time if finishes.
But I get the sense that I've raised more questions for you than I've answered...

Can I output a 1080I & 720P Quicktime mov from NTSC source video in FCP?

I have a client who wants me to take NTSC Digibeta source masters and create 1080I and 720P Quicktime files. I believe that FCP will let me do that, but wanted to make absolutely sure before I proceed.
Thanks guys!

Blowing up an SD source to 4 to 10 times larger than the original? Can you say, "eeeew?"
Yes, you can...if you use COMPRESSOR...and the Advanced Conversion options. And choose custom controls to make all the conversion settings to be BEST. This will take a WHILE...but it will work.
Or...buy a Kona 3 and a high speed RAID and the Kona will upconvert for you when you capture.
Hold on...what SORT of files? Like the 720 and 1080 TRAILERS you see on Apple? Or HD Deliverable files?
Shane

Macbook Pro (17-inch, Mid 2009) external monitor static

I've had this problem ever since I bought my macbook pro a year and a half ago. I like to connect my macbook pro to a Sony Bravia TV (model: KDL-26P3000) via an HDMI cable and mini displayport to hdmi adapter. Every few minutes or so the image turns to static on my Sony TV for anything between a few seconds and 2 minutes (there is no change to the macbook pro display). The TV screen also flickers and shows red vertical lines from time to time.
It seems to be completely random (has nothing to do with Sleep function) and it happens whether I am playing movies, viewing photos or not doing anything at all. I've tried using several cables (I think about 6) and 2 adapters (one apple and one griffin) and the problem persisted. It happened on Snow Leopard and it still happens on Lion. Everything is updated. I am certain this is a software issue, because using the exact same hardware and cables with my secondary OS (Windows 7 installed via Bootcamp) the issue simply never occurs.
There seems to be some correlation with the length of the cable I'm using. My current configuration requires me to use a 10m / 33ft. HDMI cable (I've tried both high- and low-end brands until now). However, everytime I use a significantly shorter cable (under 4m / 13ft.) everything is fine.
I've tried different resolutions (from 1080i, 720p, 480p and even 640 x 480), different refresh rates (50Hz/60Hz), with or without overscan and various display profiles.
It might be worth mentioning that I've cleaned both the HDMI cables and the port (the computer was also cleaned on the inside by Apple Service Staff just a few months ago). I've had different arrangements and cable paths in order to eliminate the posibility of interference - the issue occurs in every room, whether the cable is coiled or stretched out.
I would really appreciate and be very thankful for any help or suggestions. I'm sorry about the length of the post but I wanted to give out as many details as possible and be very specific, since I haven't been able to find other accounts of the exact same issue.
Thank you.

JonnyAlpha,
a miniature screw extractor would probably be your best bet. One manufacturer of them is Moody Tools.

MBP Retina bad display on external Dell display

My MBPr LCD display is great: crisp and clear.
However, when I connect my desktop Dell display, the result is washed out and difficult to read fonts.
I've tried with both mini-DVI and mini-VGA. The mini-VGA is perhaps marginally better, but in both
cases is borderline unusable.
Any clues?
Thanks!

I've a 2011 MBA, 2008 MBP and a Dell U2410 24" 1920x1200-native setup with zero problems, until I replace the aging MBP with rMBP. Now I get the same issue as the OP.
I've searched extensively, but "blurry images, washed-out colors, smudgy text" isn't very scientific/concrete so it's not easy to have a clear-cut case. On this same issue (I believe), I've found the following threads:
https://discussions.apple.com/thread/4119545
http://forums.macrumors.com/showthread.php?p=15565120
I'm trying to document the issue as much as possible, with photos taken off the display. (I've found screen capture doesn't work). They're posted at http://goo.gl/XLdMf
Further background
The same mini-DP to DP cable is used to connect MBA, rMBP (and my previous 2008 MBP) and have been in service since I've the Dell. No issues at all, except the rMBP.
I've tried HDMI-HDMI from rMBP to Dell. Same lousy display quality.
The Dell U2410 accepts DP, HDMI, DVI and VGA inputs.
On the monitor itself, I can press a few buttons to ask for display info. In both cases, the Dell reports it is displaying in 1920x1200 @ 60Hz. (So this rules out the problem of trying to display 1920x1080 on a 1920x1200 native display).
I've done a Factory Reset on the Dell, to no avail.
When the MacBookAir4,2 (2011 MBA) is connected, a range of resolutions is available:1080p, 1080i, 720p, 480p, 1920x1200x 1600x1200, 1600x1000, 1344x1008, 1344x840, 1280x1024, 1280x960, 1280x800, 1024x768, 1024x640, 960x600, 800x600, 800x500, 720x576, 640x480
When MacBookPro10,1 (rMBP) is connected, only 3 choices present itself:1920x1200, 1600x1000, 1280x800
Comparing the 2 Colors tab photos, notice how, when the rMBP is connected, the fonts have a white shadow all around the black fonts.
Comparing the 2 Display tab photos, look at the "1920" in the selected "1920x1200" option. Notice how, when the rMBP is connected, the bottom of the "1", "9", "2", "0" are smudged together

Mac Mini With Philips CRT - 1080i issues

I have a Philips 34PW9818 High Definition CRT TV connected to my new 1.83 Mac Mini. My TV has a DVI input and supports 1080i or 480p. The only one of these options coming up under System Preferences/Display was for 1920 x 1080 (interlaced). When I choose that option the top and left portions of the screen are cut-off and the screen flickers. If I chose 848 x 480, which is the closest I have to 480p, the screen is much clearer, doesn't flicker but portions of all sides are cut-off. I had planned to use this for web browsing, Front Row and to watch DVDs. I assumed that this would work considering my TV has a DVI input and it could handle up to 1080i.
Can this be fixed?
Is it possible for this TV to work well for web browsing, Front Row and watching DVDs?
Will DisplayConfigX or SwitchResX fix my problems?
Thanks in advance for any help you can provide.
mac mini intel duo Mac OS X (10.4.8)

Welcome to Apple Discussions!
I have the same issue with my iMac Intel Core 2 Duo. 480p just isn't enough, but 1080p should be enough. What you need is a scan converter.
Edit: http://www.provantage.com/startech-vid2dvidtv~7STRV012.htm
seems like an inexpensive solution compared to what I had quoted earlier. Though it requires DVI on your computer end, and Composite on the TV end. Let us know how it works?

Poor Performance with 10.1

I'm on a windows xp sp 3 machine with an x800 xt pe graphics card using the latest catalyst drivers from Ati. Ever since I updated flash, I'm getting very poor performance during 720p with acceleration enabled. I'm also getting bad performance when it's disabled. Is there an issue with the 10.2 legacy (ati) drivers not enabling hardware acceleration with 10.1 flash?
BTW I went back to using 10.0.42.34 flash and everything is running fine again.

I've also noticed poor performance since installing the 10.1 plugin. Not just in HD video etc, but in general use. So much for "improved performance"...
No idea on solutions at this stage - In the process of downgrading to previous version to see if that fixes my problems

What is required to connect T420s DisplayPort to DVI-D port? (Sony Trinitron)

Hello.
My wife and I have recently been watching Netflix movies on our laptop when it occurred to me: why don't we watch this on our 36" screen? So I went out and purchased a DisplayPort to DVI-D cable. Hooked it all up, selected the appropriate input on the TV and... nothing.
I know that I need to choose the appropriate refresh rate and resolution. My questions are:
- Is there anything else that I am missing?
- The NVidia Control Panel is not as intuitive as it could be. How do I configure NVidia/Windows to enable the DisplayPort?
Any feedback you can provide would be greatly appreciated.
CONTEXT
- Laptop: T420s
- Cable: DisplayPort to DVI-D (passive)
- Operating System: Windows 7 (64 bit)
- graphics chipsets: integrated INTEL chip, and discrete Nvidia NVS 4200M Optimus

Hi Gamloi7.
Thank you for taking the time to reply to my posting.
Config=>Display=>Graphics Card=Nvidia NVS 4200M
The T420s laptop has both an integrated GPU and a dedicated GPU. I have tried using driving the display monitor using both... unfortunately it doesn't work. All I see on the TV screen is black.
TESTS PERFORMED
- I have tried: Laptop (DisplayPort) >> to >> TV (DVI-D)... TV only displays a black screen
- I have tried: Laptop (VGA) >> to >> TV (DVI-D)... TV only displays a black screen
ADDITIONAL NOTES
- Yes I have extended the desktop (via the Win+P shortcut).
- For both test cases above, I disconnected the cable from the TV and connected it to my monitor to ensure that the signal was working... sure enough the monitor worked as expected
- as I understand it the Sony Trinitron KV-36HS500 supports: 480p, 1080i, 720p
- The following schematic is for the back of my TV. Do you happen to know if VGA or DisplayPort are compatible with any other standards? For example... I don't suppose I can go from VGA or DisplayPort to S-Video ??

Macbook air mini dp output resolution / full screen app issues

I've successfully connected my new macbook air 13" to my LED tv with a mini DP to hdmi adapter + hdmi wire. I am able to get video and audio (obviously.)
My issue is that no matter when resolution I try (1080p, 1080i, 720p, etc) and wether I am "mirroring" the display or "extending" the display,
My samsung 46" LED tv can not get full screen there is always black bars on the left and right.
When I connect my PC via VGA wire there are no bars and it is in full land scape view.
Also I've noticed in lion that full screen apps show up as the "linen wallpaper" on the second display.
the only way i can slightly alleviate the problem is full screening a video within youtube but not within the OS it self... even then there is still black bars which is weird because when i use the TV as a extended monitor the wallpaper is using the whole display just full screen video has black bars.
I am unable to get 1920 x 1200 output display to my HDTV is this possible? is it my mini DP to hdmi adapter that is at fault?
thanks in advanced to whoever helps sorry about the long post my brain is scattered on the issue because my VGA connetion works fine i don't understand why HDMI + mini DP has worse resolution...

No, it doesn't list the resolution explicitly like that - the top few items in the list are "480i", "480p", "720p", "1080i" and "1080p", each with a small TV icon to the right. Non-television resolutions follow, and are listed with explicit pixel dimensions (and no TV icon), but the list stops at 1440x900, the native resolution of the MacBook's built-in display; it doesn't list resolutions higher than that.
Needless to say, I've tried every setting in the entire list, and they all suffer from the same problem of displaying shrunk down on the plasma TV with a margin around the desktop.
I wonder if the difference between your Display control panel and mine is that I'm running Snow Leopard? (Sorry - no screen grabs to show, I'm at work right now)

42SL417 Connection or Compatibility Issue with Explorer Cable Box 8642HDC

I have the TV listed above and recently switched to Brighthouse cable. Intermittently my TV loses the connection to the cable box and the input information (1080i, 720p, etc) comes up across the top of the TV and the picture resets. I had the cable guy out and he said that there was a compatibility issue between the TV and the cable box. I didn't get all the information since he talked to my wife, I was at work. I don't believe that this is the issue, but wanted to check to see if this was a known problem or if anyone has had a similar experience. My firmware is 2.2.2, which I believe is the most current. Any thoughts or ideas? The best I could get from my wife was that the box was trying to communicate with the TV to maximize resolution and the delay creates the connection problem. Before I call the cable company back, I wanted to get some opinions. My thought is that there is a signal problem since the internet had connectivity problems as well. He changed the cable on the internet connection and said that would fix that, but I can't believe they aren't related.

That is indeed the latest firmware.
You may want to perform a factory reset, as described on page 44 of your user's guide. After the reset, ensure your TV is off and unplug it for a few minutes. All your settings will be reset, so you will have to set up the TV again.
You might also want to try disabling CEC (page 39) or auto aspect ratio feature (page 47).
I don't know for sure that any of this will help, but these are your best bets. Unfortunately, if none of this helps, I'm out of ideas.
- Peter

Compatibility? TV is not widescreen, but is HD

I have a Sony KV-32HS510 TV that I am wondering if it will be compatible with Apple TV. It's a standard format (4:3) screen, but it is HD. You have to watch the HD channels with bars across the top.
Does anybody know if this type of TV works with Aplle TV, and what special cable I might need.

I have a Sony KP-53HS10 which is a 4:3 projection TV that supports 1080i and 480p on its component inputs and my Sony works fine with the Apple TV. As long as you have component or HDMI inputs on your TV with a wide-screen mode (16:9) it should work. You can even use DVI if you buy an HDMI to DVI adapter (for example, I've connected my Apple TV to my Apple Cinema Display using just such an adapter). I've also connected the Apple TV to a Sharp 13" enhanced resolution LCD TV that has a 16:9 mode for compatibility with 720p and 1080i inputs (over its component inputs).
I suspect that your TV has HD-compatible component inputs which SHOULD work with the Apple TV (not to be confused with a simple composite video input or even s-video which will NOT work).
According to the specs on Amazon, it looks like you have a nice TV and it should definitely work with the Apple TV. Here is what Amazon says about your model:
Compatible with 480i, 480p, 720p, and 1080i formats; Digital Reality Creation MultiFunction feature upconverts analog NTSC signals to near-HD quality
DVI input (rear), 2 component inputs (rear), analog audio output (rear), 4 A/V inputs (3 front, 1 rear), 3 S-Video inputs (2 front, 1 rear), and 1 each S-Link output and input

Is the Mac Mini right for me?

I've been fighting with my PC for years, and I am finally giving up. I'm looking forward to joining the Mac community. I want to buy a mac mini with the new Leopard OSX(10.5), however, I have some unique requirements:
- I live on a boat in Avalon Harbor, Catalina Island, Southern California.
- The natural choice for me would be a laptop computer.(Currently a Toshiba)
- Power consumption is an important factor
- I need a new TV, and I've acquired a KVH TracVision II satellite tracker to
use with it.
- I'm looking at a Vizio VX37L with the following specs:
- Native Resolution: 1366 x 768 Format: 16 x 9
- Input Formats: 1080i 720p HD 480p DVD 480i Normal TV
- Inputs Supported: 1368x768 1024x768 800x600 720x400 640x480
- Connections: HDMI w/HDCP
- Inputs: Comb.NTSC/Ant/Cable/ATSC HDTV etc. 2xHDMI Stereo S-Video RGB
I have trouble with my eyesight, and a 37" monitor about 5' away might be a good solution, but not if it doesn't work as a package, and not if the resolution isn't HD-sharp. I've been reading on this forum of several difficulties experienced by mini users. This flies in the face of Apple's salesman, who says the mini is purposed to be monitored by a tv. Am I on the right track, or should I stick with the laptop?
Sure would appreciate your input to my dilemma
Dave

I think the problem you have is not that the mini isn't capable of what you want it to do, and that if it works as expected that it will provide you a workable solution, but that some TVs are just not quite ready for prime time as computer displays, because as yet TV manufacturers are not widely adopting standards and designing their product for this kind of use.
As such, the question is whether the specific TV you are proposing will work well or not. Much depends on whether it signals the correct data to the mini or not. Some do, and many do not.
However, the salesman who claimed the mini is intended to be used with a TV is talking out of his hat. It is designed to be capable of it, and many have used them that way with great success, but if the salesman was right, Apple would hardly have decided to develop and market the Apple TV device, which is their 'official' way to connect an Apple product to a TV, and natively has most of the common range of connectors for the purpose, whereas the mini does not.
In most instances where a modern TV signals correctly to the Mac, the result is excellent, and where it does not, it can usually be configured to work well using one or other of the DisplayConfigX or SwitchResX utilities, but unless there is a user here with a mini and the same make and model of TV and who has reported, or can report, on the result, the only way you can be sure is to take try the combination.
In terms of whether the mini is the 'right' system for you - the answer is that it certainly draws relatively low power in the same overall range as equivalent laptops, and it is a very powerful system in its own right so unless you were into something like professional video or image editing, it's not likely to disappoint. As such, and assuming you are desirous of moving to MacOS and away from Windows, in my view perhaps the best way to approach this is to get the mini, and then take it to your local TV retailer and set it up with the TV of your choice and see if it works correctly. If it does, the problem is solved, and if not, either try a different TV or start playing with one or other of the aforementioned display utilities.
Of course don't forget that with any Intel Mac, including the mini, you can always switch back to Windows using BootCamp (and a copy of Windows of course) if you get homesick!

G5 and HDTV

I've been using a Panasonic HDTV as my G5's monitor for a while but the only drawback so far is the screen stretches beyond the visible edge... not by much, but things like the clock in the upper right are cut in half.
I'm trying to figure out if it's the TV or the graphics card. The TV supports 1080i/720p with a res of 1366x768. The only res setting that works in sysprefs is 1280x720. Choosing other resolutions causes a distorted signal. The card is a GeForce FX 5200.
The TV has settings for the size of the screen like normal, stretched, zoom etc. but these options aren't available for adjusting when I'm on the mac (HDMI input). But when I'm viewing cable (component input) I'm able to change the screen size or prevent it from stretching on non-HD channels.
Could anyone help me understand where the likely problem lies? If it's a graphic card problem, is it possible to update its drivers? Would a new card help?
Thanks in advance,
George
PowerMac G5 Mac OS X (10.4.3)

After fiddling around more I was able to correct some but not all of the overscan.
In case it helps anyone else, here are my settings which are specific to my TV I'm assuming:
Active Horiz/Vert: 1248/710
Front Porch Horiz/Vert: 120/10
Sync Width Horiz/Vert: 40/5
Back Porch: 240/20
Scan rate: 45/60.403
I read that increasing Front/Back Porches while decreasing the Active Horiz/Vert by the same amount would work. So I started out at 1280 horizontal and increased the front porch and back porch for horizontal by 16 each. Then I subtracted 32 (16 front porch, 16 back porch) from 1280 to get to 1248.
I tried the same method for vertical but I could not figure out how to get the top edge to come down into view. As I tried increasing the porches and decreasing the active vertical, the vertical height just kept getting smaller. So if anyone has a suggestion I'd love to hear it.
I am able to correct all but the top of the overscan. The menus, clock, user etc. are still cut off, but somewhat legible still.
I have no clue what any of these numbers mean, this was just a trial and error (rebooted about 30 times).
George
PowerMac G5 Dual 1.8 Mac OS X (10.3.9)

How do i stream my iMac screen to a device that accepts component video only

I have a new iMac (2015) and I want to send my screen from my mac to a video switcher called a NewTek Tricaster 40. It only accepts component or composite video input. I want to send my iMac's screen to it in real time so I can incorporate it into my live video productions. I have attempted to use several HDMI to component converters and none have worked. I am using the Kanex Pro HDMI to Component Converter to convert the HDMI out from two HD camcorders to component and sending that into my Tricaster 40. It is seeing the signal just fine and giving me solid HD video. So I attempted to use the same Kanex Pro for the iMac. First I used apple's lightning to HDMI cable then plugged that HDMI into another Kanex Pro HDMI to component converter. No dice. I tried all the component video settings: 1080p 30PsF, 1080 24PsF, 1080i, 720p, 720/30p, 720/24p. None worked
Kanex Pro HDMI to Component Converter with Audio for PS4, Xbox One, Full HD 1080p (HDRGBRL)
https://www.google.com/shopping/product/13562420314864684603?q=Kanex+Pro+HDMI+to +Component+Converter+with+Audio+for+PS4,+Xbox+One,+Full+HD+1080p+(HDRGBRL)&espv= 2&biw=1461&bih=724&bav=on.2,or.r_cp.&bvm=bv.89947451,d.cGU&ion=1&tch=1&ech=1&psi =lcMhVcDPEpC4ogTBl4LABg.1428276117592.5&prds=paur:ClkAsKraX2IpeY7X336NKCAZO5gXZC fr9CYkefRrD0Ad_Xy607mRERaZVy-e31nis3rQppz_OgnNmy5ApOtsfxdiNa9ObBt6XIj0T_QHJnHgQS RKEgr403gF3BIZAFPVH73q3thgw88E5DYtSJ2ucji5lQO4ow&sa=X&ei=nMMhVfSkCIftoATK24GYCA& ved=0COEDEPMCMAA
Next I purchased an apple lightning to DVI adaptor. Then I plugged the DVI into this Lindy DVI to component converter. It also failed at all resolutions. None worked for SD resolutions either.
LINDY DVI-D to VGA/RGB/Component Video Converter (32562)
http://www.amazon.com/gp/offer-listing/B0012E210A/ref=olp_tab_new?ie=UTF8&condit ion=new
After hunting for a solution someone suggested that HDCP protection might be my problem. Apparently in an effort to keep people form pirating movies Microsoft and apple use HDCP to keep people form making this conversion? I'm nor sure how this works I just know that I am leagaly allowed to incorporate brief news clips into my news comentary on my youtub channel so long as I cite them and add to them substantially. I do both. So is HDCP my issue? If so what is the work around?
Sewell Direct 1x2 HDMI Splitter, v1.4, 4k by 2k support
http://www.amazon.com/gp/r.html?C=R9X3UEVFUTLF&K=AAASFVVZHH4WQ&R=3S6NDP88QPROY&T =C&U=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.amazon.com%2Fdp%2F…
NewTek has a program called IVGA that will allow me to share my screen over my local network but the frame rate is horribly choppy and is not useful for capturing video clips form youtube or game play.
Bottom line how do I stream high quality (720 /24p minimum) video from my iMac to a device that only accepts component video in.

I did end up using an apple thunderbolt to DVI.
Next a DVI to HDMI.
Component Video + Digital Coaxial and Digital Optical Audio to HDMI® Converter
http:/http://www.monoprice.com/Product?c_id=101&cp_id=10114&cs_id=1011406&p_id=5 971&seq=1&format=2
After that I used an HDMI to component.
Kanex Pro HDMI to Component Converter with Audio for PS4, Xbox One, Full HD 1080p (HDRGBRL)
https://www.google.com/shopping/product/13562420314864684603?q=Kanex+Pro+HDMI+to +Component+Converter+with+Audio+for+PS4,+Xbox+One,+Full+HD+1080p+(HDRGBRL)&espv = 2&biw=1461&bih=724&bav=on.2,or.r_cp.&bvm=bv.89947451,d.cGU&ion=1&tch=1&ech=1&ps i =lcMhVcDPEpC4ogTBl4LABg.1428276117592.5&prds=paur:ClkAsKraX2IpeY7X336NKCAZO5gXZ C fr9CYkefRrD0Ad_Xy607mRERaZVy-e31nis3rQppz_OgnNmy5ApOtsfxdiNa9ObBt6XIj0T_QHJnHgQ S RKEgr403gF3BIZAFPVH73q3thgw88E5DYtSJ2ucji5lQO4ow&sa=X&ei=nMMhVfSkCIftoATK24GYCA & ved=0COEDEPMCMAA
On my iMac:
I had to go into my device settings > Display
then I set the "Optimize for:" to "CAT-6066"
after that I selected the "Scaled" option right underneath
then i selected 1080i because the Kanex Pro is designed to convert 1080i into component
I was then able to get my NewTek Tricaster 40 to recognize that component signal from the Kanex Pro and add it to my production as 1080i or as 1080p/30. The frame rate looks great and the video quality is very smooth and in real time.

Apple TV + HDTV Problem

Hello all,
I'm having an issue w/ our Apple TV and I'd like to see if anyone else can help.
We have a 40GB Apple TV w/ the current firmware 2.4.
We had a Samsung 42" Plasma 1080i/720p HDTV for a little over two years. We bought the Apple TV 6 months ago and every couple of days, the TV would fail to recognize the Apple TV--it would just sit there w/ a black screen, dead, and no picture. Rebooting would help for a little while but the only sure-fire fix was to unplug it, and plug it back in. This issue happened on average once a week. I had done 2 factory restores on the unit and it made no difference.
Our Samsung TV XY panel died so we were able to get it replaced under the insurance plan we had on it, and went with a JVC 42" LCD 1080p HDTV. Coincidentally, this TV has an iPod dock in the front of it as well, and works great w/ our 5th gen iPod nano (as well as iPhones)
The same issue that affected the Samsung Plasma also happens on the JVC (even after a 3rd factory restore). However, on this TV set, if I change source (ie. HDMI1, HDMI2, HDMI3) or turn the TV off/on, the TV cannot recognize the Apple TV at all. I took it to the Apple Store @ Brea Mall, and they said they had seen this before, and offered to replace it. A few days later, I picked up the replacement Apple TV, took it home an hooked it up. Sure enough, same issue.
I have two different brands of HDMI cable (Philips and Pure|AV), as well as 3 other HDMI devices (PS3, Scientific Atlanta HD DVR, Xbox 360) that each work/worked fine with both the previous TV (Samsung) and the current TV (JVC). The only one that has an issue is the Apple TV.
I contacted AppleCare and they said to take it back to the store and ask them to test it w/ their TV set on TV (a Pioneer). The repair tech at the Brea store tested it and sure enough, it had the exact same issue on their TV that it did on mine--when he changed/cycled the sources, the Apple TV (the 2nd one) would not show a picture when put back on the same port. The repair tech offered to replace it but I asked that he just document it and I will contact AppleCare (that's what the rep @ Applecare told me to do).
AppleCare sent me out a 3rd unit (which I currently have) and it is also having the same issue as the previous two, except this one has a very-VERY-very dim LED light on the front (almost not on). We did try the 2nd one on Component (1080i) and it worked fine, however, I cannot use it on HDMI with any of them.
According to AppleCare, they are "looking into it" but I have absolutely no idea what that means. This issue is going from weeks to months now and I wish I had never bought this thing, but my wife loves it and wants to get it to work. I'd use Component but it does not output at 1080p as advertised.
Does anyone have any experience with issues like this? Any suggestions? Thank you (in advance)
El Oso

Thanks everyone for your responses.... in an effort to reply to all of you at once, here goes...
Winston Churchill wrote:
Have you looked in your manual to see if a particular port needs setting up correctly (i.e renamed from HDM 1 to PC for example)
I just looked through the JVC manual, it mentions no such port--it appears they're all the same. I've tried changing the identifier both as PVR, Bluray Disc, Cable, etc., and no setting makes any difference (I believe it's a simple naming scheme).
Stork wrote:
I found this thread in the Mac Mini (early 2009) discussion group.
http://discussions.apple.com/thread.jspa?threadID=2075568
Although the symtoms may not be the same, the solution may point to the same problem with some sets HDMI circuitry. The $17 Monoprice adapter solution might be a cheap solution to your problem with the JCV's HMDI circuitry.
Thanks but I'm afraid it's not the same issue I am having; I'm getting no video or audio after I switch source or turn off the TV. If I turn the Apple TV on while the TV is already on, it works until I change the source or power off the TV set. When I power the TV set back on, same issue all over again.
capaho wrote:
I think there is a fundamental problem with the way an ATV handles HDMI, as this is an issue that often comes up here, and whether any given owner experiences it appears to depend on the specific hardware they're using.
Definitely, it has happened on both TV sets yet seems more prevalent on the newer JVC vs. the older Samsung (which we no longer have)
Based on various other reports posted in the forum here, such problems appear to occur more often with certain brands of TVs and amps than others, but, based on my own experiences, I'd have to say the problem rests with the ATV. Otherwise, it wouldn't be the only device that so many people have been having problems when everything else works.
You wouldn't believe how much angst I've gone through w/ "Apple care" over this. The product specialist I spoke to first said it had to be the TV set (even after I explained it happened on both TVs). When I took it to the store (2nd time) and they replicated it, he finally capitulated that there is definitely a problem w/ the unit.
In your case, if you have an HDMI switch or an A/V amp with HDMI ports, you might try connecting it through that rather than directly to the TV and see if it makes a difference. Given the consistency of your problems, that may be the only way to salvage the situation for the sake of your wife.
Ya no doubt, she's not exactly happy about it not working, and we have a dozen or so iTunes movies we cannot watch on our TV set. I can hook it up via component but it's not what it was billed as (1080p w/ digital HDMI signal). Plus, I have a PS3 which has not had one single problem w/ either TV set (Samsung or JVC)--the 360 hasn't had any issues, nor has our Cable TV DVR box.

Performance 1080i, 720p, 480p

Similar Messages

Maybe you are looking for