Personal LaserWriter IINT Won't Power Up

My Personal LaserWriter IINT will not power up.
When I had problem the first few times, I could fix it temporarily by removing the driver board and replacing it. (By the way, board itself does not seem to be problem, because I still have the original [non-NT] board and putting it in does not help.)
But now, removing and reinstalling the board no longer helps. Exchanging the power cord also didn't help.
I consider this printer my old friend. Any suggestions on what I might try or any advice on whether repair is possible?
fkokesh
eMac Mac OS X (10.2.x)

Welcome to Disussions
You may look at:
http://www.whoopis.com/computer_repair/
For LaserwriterII.pdf
Maybe you can check the Power supply.

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Laserwriter IINT, personal laserwriter and OSX

i'm a first time poster, so please excuse any redundancy.
would someone please tell me how to print using have 2 old printers:
Apple personal laserwriter NT
family number=M2000
marketing number=M0097LL/A
and a
Laserwriter IINT
Model M6000G mftg 3/89
thanks from sunny spain.
frank
Laserwriter IINT Mac OS X (10.3.9)

thanks grant. i linked to the site and see the specs but madre mia what do i do with them now? i've got an asante hardware, will look at it tonight and send the exact specs along. we used it previously with a pb170 and the laserwriter, which worked ok till we started getting pastscript errors. here in spain, folks don't seem to know much about macs, even the authorized sellers. i get the feeling everyone wnats to sell new machines, instead of using what already works. frank

I want to use my Personal Laserwriter, but it won't work with my imac

I have a personal laserwriter printer. It work great with my older mac - Performa 580CD. However when I tried setting it up with my imac - using a MacOS 9.X driver and usb-serial adaptor - it only works with OS 9.x softeware.
So I have a laser printer that I cannot use. I'd like to get it up and running for my MacBoo Pro, too. Any advice?

The personal LaserWriter NTR and the Personal LaserWriter 320 are Postscript level 2 printers that can run with the built-in Mac OS X Drivers.
What is missing is a way to make the connection to recent machines that do not have a Printer/Modem/LocalTalk port. You can use the Mac's Ethernet port to carry AppleTalk packets (in addition to the standard TCP/IP packets) and use a converter to bridge from Ethernet to LocalTalk.
Two converters are available on the used market: The Farallon EtherMac iPrint LT and the Asante Asantetalk. The Asante may also be available new, but at a cost near US$100 new, you could get a more capable used Ethernet-capable printer for the same money.
If you have an older Mac that has a Printer/Modem/LocalTalk port and an Ethernet port and is still running OS 9 or earlier, you can download a package called LocalTalk Bridge to run in the background and do the conversion.
The other Personal LaserWriters would require a bridge AND a third-party driver.

Personal LaserWriter NTR

I was just recently given an old Apple Personal LaserWriter NTR. I tried connecting it to my Performa 200 running Mac OS 7.5.5 with 10 MB of RAM. Out of the ten times I tried once I got a message stating "scanner motor malfunction." It never printed once while connected to that Mac. I then hooked it up to my Power Mac 5260/100 running Mac OS 8.6 which was able to print to it. When I attempted to enable download unlimited fonts I again got a error message regarding the scanner motor. I then ordered a kit from fixyourownprinter.com to replace the scanner motor. I then attempted to power the printer on & it turned on but all of the lights were off. According to the manual I got with it this indicates that the control board/density controller board isn't getting power. I have tried both fixyourownprinter.com & eBay. Neither have the replacement part I need. I would buy a Personal LaserWriter NT density control board but then I won't have a parallel port connector (I have PCs too). What else should I try to attempt to fix this printer?

Thurletta,
I appreciate the note of confidence. Two years ago
it was Henry that answered all the hard questions for
me.
My Laserwriter Select 360 has been a great machine
but toner cartidges for it now cost more than buying
a LW 16/600 ethernet capable printer AND toner
cartridge combined.
Find inexpensive parts to swap out you will over
spend on your NTR. That was our first laser printer
and I have 5 parts machines but I find it hard to
take the time to tinker with them when newer printers
are so cheap. My hat is off to you for getting as
far as you have. Dismantling a parts machine will be
your best education.
Jim
As for AppleTalk issues, Grant's comment about
disconnecting and restarting is the best guarantee of
renewed cooperation. I always turn off laser
printers when not in use because too long of a delay
between use will allow older versions of AppleTalk to
lose track of the device and then a reboot is
required.
I, too, always turn off everything after once having a lightning hit zap an LCII and modem through the phone cord.
Also, a belated acknowledgement and "thank you" to Henry.
My NTR is still going strong after "playing dead" a few months ago, and there is an old NT in the closet awaiting harvesting for parts should surgery become necessary. (Fortunately, it revived itself before I had to start taking the NT apart.)
The person who gave me the 360 also gave me eight cartridges so I'm good to go for a while on that. Both the NTR and 360 are so far working with the AsanteTalk bridge.
Thanks again for your help...I just hope we can somehow help the other fella who is still trying to get his NTR to work properly. My only suggestion for him is to contact olde-mac-milt on eBay who specializes in parts for old Macs to see if he has any ideas for getting his NTR to work with the 520.
Dual-boot G4 Mac OS X (10.3.9) PB 1400, PM 7600, PLW NTR, LW 360

Dv7-1273cl won't power-on

Warranty still good until 2011-03-31, bought at Costco. I press the power button and the lights come on for about 1-2 seconds and then it dies. Tried taking the battery out and putting back in, no luck. Won't power-on at all w/o the battery in (no lights, no nothing.)

to those who have NOT solved this issue yet, we know you are out of warranty, so try this. i'm not sure how long this will last, but this should help. the computer's power circuit has a defect that HP didn't mention. the dv7 2nd Gen. has a problem where the primary power circuit stops responding to the correct voltage. here's a quick fix.
WARNING!
this mod puts your computer over-voltage by a few volts and i am NOT responsible for your loss if you do this mod incorrectly!
NOTE: you cannot charge your battery with the computer on with this mod with the stock charger. the charger that comes with the computer is 3.4 amps (65 watts, and you need 4.2 amps or 90 watts)
IF YOU FOLLOW THIS TO THE "T", YOU WILL GET THE COMPUTER TO POWER ON, BUT ITS A MOD AND ITS UNTESTED IN THE LONG TERM...
use this information at YOUR OWN RISK!!!
DISCLAIMER:
* Your warranty is now void.
* I am not responsible for broken devices, dead chargers,
* thermonuclear war, or you getting fired because the computer caught fire. Please
* do some research if you have any concerns about this mod, and double-check
* before applying it! YOU are choosing to make these modifications, and if
* you point the finger at me for messing up your device, I will laugh at you.
short the center pin to the outside white wire using solder to bridge the connection between the +14.4V connection coming from the charger. i personally used 26AWG wire and carefully wrapped it around the 2 pins and then soldered them. thin solder braid also works very well. i must reiterate that you cannot use ANY other pins than the second to the left. review this video on youtube for reference. this is what helped me to get it running.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=In5JoDVlZ0Y
try to use the wire with the solder as its a better connection and is more solid. do not use rosin core solder, only tin-lead solder. you may use fluxall tin-lead solder to make it easy, but its a tad messy at first when heated. flux kind of spits at you a little bit. haha.

Personal Laserwriter LS and 6.0.8

I'm trying to set up a Pers. LW LS using 6.0.8 and the Laserwriter 300 driver, but I get a message telling me that the Laserwriter 300 driver needs a later Chooser. Any recommendations on where to find a Chooser that will work w/ 6.0.8 and the LW 300 driver? Or, where to find the original Personal LaserWriter LS driver that will work w/ 6.0.8 without changing the Chooser? Or, any other configuration that will work?
Many thanks,
-Andy

OK, good suggestion -- followed the install instructions for the GrayShare update -- used the Font DA Mover to install the new Chooser, dragged and dropped the included Laserwriter 300 driver and PrinterShare INIT into the System Folder. Now when I select the Laserwriter 300 icon in the Chooser, all seems great. Connected to the printer serial port, etc. etc.
Except now, I try to print, and it insists that the printer is not connected to the computer. I swear that the printer is connected to the port selected in the Chooser, that it's on, etc. I know that the port works and the printer works because I got everything to work under System 7.5.5 (it was dog slow on the Plus as you might imagine, but it printed fine). I've power cycled the printer, rebooted the Plus -- can't get the computer to see the printer.
Any ideas?

Personal LaserWriter 320

I have an old Personal LaserWriter 320 which worked perfectly when connected by Ethernet to my Power Mac G4. I have now connected it by Ethernet to my new iMac. My problem is that the printer now 'prints' a blank page between every genuine page. No tweaking of paper specs, margins, or defaults has worked. I can stop it by printing one copy of page 2 to page 2 (out of a 3 page document say) but if I ask for 2 copies of page 2 to page 2 the blank comes out between them -- just as when I ask for page1 to page 2.

I am using the EtherMac iPrint Adaptor which was supplied a few years ago with my G4 to enable me to use the printer (which I already owned).
I am using the built in Mac OS X Driver.
The printer uses A4 paper.
Page Setup allows me to choose between US Letter, A4, A4 Small, and others. I choose one or other of the A4 options every time. This seems to stay put in TextEdit, but not in Word, not in System Preferences.
Printing starts further up the page than the top margin says it should. It would appear that the computer always assumes that the printer uses US Letter paper.

Personal LaserWriter 300, printer sharing

I have a Personal Laserwriter 300 connected with a serial cord to the printer port of a Power Macintosh G3 desktop, running OS 8.0. I am trying to share this printer over a network with my Power Macintosh G4 (AGP Graphics), running OS 9.2.2. Appletalk is active, and file sharing works fine because both macs are networked with ethernet cords to a Linksys WRT54G wireless router. I have designated the LaserWriter 300 as a shared printer in the G3 chooser. Both macs have the LaserWriter 300 extension and Printer Share extension installed.
When I go to the G4, the shared printer icon appears in the list of printers available in the Chooser. I select it, and then try to print a document. A window pops up that says "spooling page 1", and it looks like it is working fine. Until suddently, a message pops up that says something like "you cannot print to this shared printer, please install the printer share extension and try again..." I'm confused, though, because I already have the printer share extension installed on both macs.
Thanks for any help anyone may have.

After a little experimentation, I found a workaround.
In the G4 (OS 9.2.2) Extensions Manager, I disabled the following items:
. USB Printer Sharing (Control Panel)
. USB Device Extension
. USB Printer Sharing Extension
Then I trashed the LaserWriter 300 desktop icon and restarted the computer. After restart, I went to the chooser and selected the LaserWriter 300 again so new icon appears on the desktop. Tried printing and it worked!
I tried a couple items to make sure this was consistent... SimpleText "read me" documents work fine. I can print from my browser too.
The only problem is with PDF files using Acrobat Reader... a message pops up on the G3 saying: "Not enough memory to print this document. Quit other applications and try printing again."
Also, not sure I want to permanently sacrifice turning off the USB printer sharing control panel/extensions listed above.

Personal LaserWriter NTR and Windows 7

I've used the Apple Personal LaserWriter NTR with my PC running Windows 2000 Professional for years. I'm replacing the old computer with a new one running Windows 7 and would dearly love to use my beloved LW NTR with it.
I know I can buy a Parallel to USB cable to connect the two. But is there a printer driver that will work with Windows 7? A search of this site suggests that the last printer driver Apple released is version 4.1 which is the one I use with my Windows 2000 computer. Will it work with Windows 7? If not, any other ideas/suggestions?
And a less important question: I also have an old Apple iBook clamshell laptop with OS X 10.4 (which I mostly use "on the road" for email and web browsing—it has an Airport card and is WiFi enabled). Can I cable it up to use with the LW NTR at home for printing?
Thanks in advance for any help.

These Printers are Postscript level 1 printers that can be identified and used under the Linux-Foundation Postscript level 1 driver.
http://www.linux-foundation.org/en/OpenPrinting/MacOSX/pslevel1#Printers
LaserWriter
LaserWriter Plus
LaserWriter IINT
LaserWriter IINTX
Personal LaserWriter NT
All these printers are AppleTalk/LocalTalk printers.They also need a converter from AppleTalk-over-Ethernet to AppleTalk/LocalTalk to print in Macs without a round serial/LocalTalk port and/or Macs running Mac OS X.
The AsanteTalk OR the Farallon EtherMac iPrint LT can do the conversion for you. (There is also an unsupported Apple software solution that can be run on an OS 9, 8, or 7 Mac that has both Ethernet and a round serial port.)
If you have the printer set up on your iBook under Mac OS X, you can use Mac OS X Printer Sharing to share the Printer with Windows computers using SMB protocol:
Mac OS X 10.6 Help: Sharing your printer with Windows users

Printing from Apple personal laserwriter 320? help needed

my faithful old apple personal laserwriter 320 works perfectly till 10.3.9.
after upgrading to tiger, this printer was not recognised.
i like some advice in locating perhaps a new driver or a way to get it going in 10.4.4.
Thanks in advance. rollee

I have a PowerMac G3 300MHz Desktop that is running OS X 10.2.8 just fine. I have an older Personal Laserwriter 320 that I would like to use with it. The desktop has the LocalTalk Printer Port (Mini DIN9) connector, so I can connect the printer with a LocalTalk cable. Is there a specific drive I would need to use with OSX???
Thanks!
PowerMac G3 300MHz Desktop Mac OS X (10.2.x) Power Mac G3/300 MHz, 224MB RAM, 4GB HD, CD-ROM, Zip 100 Drive. Sony 17" Trinitron CPD-220VS

Trackpad died in less than a week, won't power up!

I recently bought the 27" ACD to use with my MBP and hence needed to get a Bluetooth keyboard and decided to go with the Magic Trackpad instead of the mouse. Man, the Trackpad is anything but magical.
In less than a week, it won't power up. Just died.
The first clue that it's dying was, after waking my MBP, the cursor seems to be not moving. Later the display shows connection lost. Re-starting the MBP didn't help.
Hence I decided to reboot the Trackpad. After powering down, that's the last I saw of the little green light. It wouldn't power up no more. Change of fresh batteries didn't help and calls made to AppleCare came to nought.
Finally, they decided to send me a replacement. But that's only after they have received the faulty unit. That's when I got ******. Asked them why they couldn't send me a replacement unit and collect the faulty unit at the same time, the person said it's company's policy.
This is the last I'd expect to hear from Apple! Note that in Singapore we dont have any Apple stores, only resellers. And I suspect this part of the operation is outsourced to some third party who chooses to have stiff policies in place. It was not after my insistent expression of my annoyance did they send me a replacement unit and said will pick up the faulty unit at a different time.
I read on this site that some owners of the Bluetooth keyboard experienced similar issues of not powering up and was resolved by throwing a home-made aluminum foil disc into the battery compartment. I tried that to no avail.
So right now, I'm waiting for them to pick up the faulty unit. But does anyone face similar issues with their Trackpad?

the person said it's company's policy.
Never that that experiene with anything I've shipped to them. Standard practice is that they ship you the replacement...FIRST, hold your credit card on file, while they wait for you to ship them the broken one. If they don't get it returned, they charge the card.
Note also, that you should be dealing with an Apple authorized service provider, not reseller.

My old macbook won't power up - help please!

I have an ancient macbook, from around 2006, and it's been chugging along just fine. Suddenly, it just won't power up at all! Power adaptor shows a green light at plug in, so the cord is working, but no fan sounds, no lights, nothing when I try starting. I've tried that SMC reset, but still nothing.
Is there anything else I can try? If not, does anyone know if a good apple repair shop should be able to recover my data? I've been an idiot and haven't done a back up in a few years.
Thanks for any help anyone can provide! I'm going to purchase a new macbook air, but REALLY need my data from the old one if at all possible, so hoping I can get it started and/or have a repair person salvage the data.
Hannah

http://manuals.info.apple.com/MANUALS/0/MA161/en_US/MacBook_13inch_HardDrive_DIY .pdf
Apple's Do It Yourself instructions.

IMac DV won't power up

My iMac DV 400 won't power up. When I press the power button, the light comes on for a second or so, and I can faintly hear the drive start to spin up but then before the computer is able to check any other hardware, before it makes the standard "bong" sound, it just shuts off. I can hear it make a faint clicking sound just before it shuts off. Sounds like a switch is opening. If I press the power button again, nothing happens. I have to unplug the computer and plug it back in to try to power up again, but it just does the same thing.
The computer is plugged directly into the wall (not through a ups or any other device). I tried with a different power cord, but no impact.
Any ideas for what to do to correct this problem?

I have heard reports suggesting that a problematic PMMU can cause the logic board battery to run down in a matter of days. At least, I recall an Apple Knowledgebase article about Power Mac G4's that said a crashed PMMU, if left in that state, drains battery in 4-6 days. I don't know if this applies to the iMac, but logic board batteries are cheap and worth a try.
If you have already updated the firmware for OS X, then there is no need to do it again. The current firmware updater is the one that's posted to Apple's site. It has not changed since 2001.
You can try the usual things that people try when machines don't power on: reseat RAM, swap out RAM, remove and reinstall the logic board, blow on it, whack it, dust it (not with a vacuum -- with canned air), check connections, check fuses on the analog board, disconnect all drives, replace the drive with a test one to see if the drive is the problem, etc.
If these are not the problem, you can repeat some steps (to see if it is an intermittant fault). Otherwise, you will need to download the appropriate service manual from this page:
http://www.whoopis.com/computer_repair/
Detailed therein is the way in which you can test (using a voltmeter, and with extreme care) whether the analog board/the power supply are good. Conducting this test will require you to have the machine powered on and will put you inches away from 26kV of voltage used to drive the CRT (at the back of the tube and on some of the components). Personally, I have never done this because I consider it too risky. If you are experienced with electronics, go ahead, otherwise I'd wait until someone else on the forum take a look at this and suggest things that I might have missed.
Based on what you said though -- clicking sounds, and power off shortly after powering up, I am guessing an internal short somewhere is causing a safety mechanism to trip out and power down your computer, esp. when it will ignore the power button. Check for a loose screw (pick it up and jiggle it, do you hear a loose part?) Check for things that might be causing a short. If you don't see anything obvious then it might be a component failure (specifically, a capacitor, a chip, or the flyback transformer we talked about earlier) that is causing the shorts. Tracing component-level faults in an iMac is beyond my technical expertise.
The iMac I picked up curbside has a screw loose. So far I haven't been able to find it, but it isn't causing any shorts, so I just left it.

Installed the update tonight and now my phone (Lumia 928) won't power up. I've tried a soft reset, but the screen goes from the Nokia logo to a red Verizon screen to a black screen. What's wrong and how do I fix it? Help!

Installed the update tonight and now my phone (Lumia 928) won't power up. I've tried a soft reset, but the screen goes from the Nokia logo to a red Verizon screen to a black screen. Tried it 10 times with the same result. What's wrong and how do I fix it? Help!

Oh no Mr.Ected!
I can see if we can get your phone back on! I understand how important it is to have a phone. Have you tried this to see if we can get it back on? http://vz.to/1DZhteH . If it is still goes to a red Verizon screen and then to black we might need to do a master reset. While the phone is off try this:http://vz.to/1DZhXkU Be mindful this is the last resort because it will erase everything on the phone. If you have done back up assistant in the past you will be able to get you contacts back. Please let me know if you need any more help.
AmberF_VZW
Follow us on Twitter @VZWSupport

How to connect my perfectly-working 20-year-old Apple Personal Laserwriter 320 to my iMac running Mountain Lion?

How to connect my perfectly-working 20-year-old Apple Personal Laserwriter 320 to my iMac running Mountain Lion?
Thank you, Morty S.

I have a perfectly-working LW 4/600 with exactly the same issue. They use localtalk - a long obsolete network connection, that doesn't connect to modern networks, and appletalk as the comm protocol.
I think the only choice you have is to use an old powerPC Mac as print server. You tell me which old Mac you have, with a localtalk connector, or that runs OS X 10.4 or earlier (so it speaks appletalk), and I'll tell you how I've done it for the past 11 years or so.
Right now I use a G4 running 10.4.11, plus an etherMac ethernet to localtalk adapter.
Before, I used a PMac 6100 running LPD server software.

Personal LaserWriter IINT Won't Power Up

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