Photo quality prints in elements 10

can anybody help me? I have elements 10.
I am using a an imac os x vesion 10.8.1. I have been trying to change the printer settings to achieve a photo quality print,but cant seem to get a photo quality result. I have tried resetting the dpi settings in the image size drop down, but this doesn't make any difference.
On the last version of elements I had, elements 6, you could change from ordinary paper to photo qulity paper.
Please help as I cant get a good result from my printer which is an epson stylus photo r300.
Thanks for any help.

By default, the photodownloader creates a folder structure named by dates. You can change that behaviour in the Organizer preferences (camera or card reader).
Chances are that what you are seeing is not the files names, but the names of the sub-folders including your files with their original names ?

Similar Messages

Photo quality may be too low to print???? how to fix this

I made a new photo album. a yellow error sign appears in the corner of each photo and says, Photo quality may be too low to print. how can i fix this. THANK YOU

I had the same concerns when I started making my calendars on iPhoto but I went ahead anyway. Unless you are an absolute stickler for perfect photos (i.e., no grain, top quality, etc.) your photos will print just fine even though you get the yellow warning sign. Now, if you can hardly see the photo on your computer, or it's like really badly out of focus, etc., you, of course, not be pleased because WYSIWYG. I've scanned photos in and put them in iPhoto -- and these were very important to me and my family. I added them to the calendars and I was very pleased with the final products. I've probably made 20 calendars and each one has had at least 3 or 4 of the scanned in photos.
Use common sense and if it looks really bad to you, don't use it. If the photo is acceptable to you, it will probably print out just fine.
Good luck - I LOVE these calendars - they make FANTASTIC Christmas gifts.
MR

Printing from Elements 8 using Epson Stylus Photo R300

Help! I'm really quite useless at all this computer stuff, and my problem is slowly driving me mad!!! I am trying, unsuccessfully, to print from Elements 8 using an Espon Stylus Photo R300. However, I dont know what settings to use. I can get prints - but they dont represent what I see on the monitor. I have tried using Picasa and the representation on the print isnt too far removed from that on the monitor. iPhoto is slightly worse. Can anyone tell me in simple english what settings I need to use - I have seen other discussions on the same topic and think that color management should be done by the Elements 8 and not the printer? Any help would be very much appreciated - before I lose it all together

Hi Syd. I was out on the web and saw where you respond to a message about printing using R300 printer. If you can help me that would be great.. this is the message that I sent Jayne who was having a problem..
Hi Jayne,
Did you get you problem resolved. I am experiencing the same problem with with element 8 and Epson r300 printer. I tried both support groups Adobe wanted me to upgrade to element 9. and Epson gave me the phone running. I have taking the printer to a Epson service center and the printer is working fine. I have change the various options in the software and no sucess. I had one image that I only crop and it the colors came out wrong. Now if I don't touch the image and just print it the colors come out fine.. So please let me know if you got it resolved.

Poor photo quality when importing slide show into Elements 10

Hello,
I'm using Elements and Photoshop Elements 10 on Vista.
What I'm trying to do is import a slide show I made in Photoshop in to a movie I'm making so that the slide show appears as a menu item and I don't have to include a separate disk for the pictures. I've sucessfully imported it, added the menu marker and the disc works, but the photo quality is really crappy. When I play the slide show on its own, the pictures are fine. What am I missing?
Thanks in advance!
Mary

Welcome to the forum.
They work on several levels:
A subscriber comes with a problem/question, and then, hopefully, someone will have an answer
A subscriber comes with a problem/question in mind, and then finds other threads, very similar, and hopefully gets the answer
A subscriber comes to read, to pick up ideas, etc.
In your case, it appears that # 2 worked, just as it should.
As for your question, PrE can produce SlideShows for display from DVD-Video, as good as it gets. Where commercial DVD-Videos enter a different realm, is with Video footage, with motion. There, Hollywood uses special Transcoding software, that allows for many, many more passes to identify the areas of motion, to Transcode at just the right Bit-Rate, for best results. PrE does that with but two passes, unlike the US $ 500,000 programs, staffed by highly-trained experts, who do nothing but Transcoding, all day long. PrE is limited in that respect, but with SlideShows, it will be able to apply the highest Bit-Rate (the DVD-specs. are strict here, so, though higher Bit-Rate = higher quality, DVD-Video can ONLY go so far.) Also, Hollywood uses DVD-9's (DL) so that more Duration can be authored to disc, at the highest-allowed Bit-Rate, for each segment of the Video. With a SlideShow, the Bit-Rate will be as high as the DVD-specs. allow, and per the Duration of the SlideShow vs the capacity of the disc.
Now, there are some other considerations, such as the limited Color Gamut (and Gamma) of DVD-Video vs display on a calibrated computer monitor, or a calibrated Broadcast monitor. One needs to study that limited and different Color Gamut, and perhaps adjust the colors first, in Photoshop. PrE is not designed for Broadcast output, so lacks many of the Tools, that PrPro has. Also, very few PrE users have a calibrated Broadcast monitor hooked up for Color Grading. Last, even if one has produced the ultimate output, with full understanding of the Color Gamut, and used a perfectly calibrated Broadcast monitor, there is no telling what the calibration of the client's monitor (computer, or TV) will be. What is perfect on a calibrated Broadcast monitor might look great on the client's setup, or perhaps not. A Broadcast Engineer can only adjust to standards, and hope for the best, when the disc hits the public. Same for Audio. Who knows what "Aunt Marge" has to play back the DVD-Video?
For ultimate results, I would create a Timeline with a few Still Images, but with each adjusted in slightly different ways in Photoshop. Add a Title, like a Lower-Third, with the Color and Gamma settings over each version, maybe 5 variations, that are slightly different. PS allows one to adjust Colors and Gamma in many ways, so explore. Then, author that Timeline to DVD-Video, using high-quality media, and test on their DVD player/TV setup. See which version looks best, and note the specifics from that Title. Use that to process the actual Still Images for the DVD SlideShow.
Also remember, if one has set things up ideally, they will have calibrated their system and Photoshop. As Photoshop is a Color Managed Workspace, things will be, as good as it gets. DVD-Video, and TV's are NOT Color Managed Workspaces, and most consumer TV's are out of general calibration, having just the generic setting from the factory. Nothing can be done about that.
As mentioned above, if the playback is for a computer (not a DVD player and TV), then better Color and Gamma might be achieved by doing an AV file, and then burning that to a DVD-Data disc, for delivery. However, one still has the variables of the client's computer, its monitor and even the software player used. All play a big role in how that AV file will play for them.
Good luck, and I wish there was an "iron-clad" answer, as to how to achieve the ultimate results, but there are so very many variables involved.
Hunt

HELP: How do I print a photograph from my computer (not from a memory card) with photo quality ?

HP6510 print-scan-copy-web (All-in-one) ePrint wireless
Mac OS X 10 6.8
How do I print a photograph from my computer (not from a memory card) with photo quality ?
Is there a software that enables me to let the printer know that what I am sending to print is a photograph and not, for example, a document?
I sent a photograph to print from I-Photo and from Photoshop and the printer prints it like a document, that is to say, quickly and with very poor quality...for what is a PHOTOGRAPH.
I bought my print yesterday in Spain and Monday I must turn in a printing job at work. Pleas help. (Today is already Saturday.)
Thanks

In OSX when you go to file and print you will usually get a window that pops up with print settings.
In 10.6 it may only show you the printer to use, and the preset to use, but you can click the square to the right of that with a triangle in it to view more options.
From here there is a drop down for paper type/quality, where you can select photo paper, and a higher quality, then go to print.
The following link will actually show screenshots of these settings and how to navigate them:
http://h10025.www1.hp.com/ewfrf/wc/document?docname=c01662562&tmp_task=useCategory&cc=us&dlc=en&lang...
Jon-W
I work on behalf of HP
Please click “Accept as Solution ” on the post that solves your issue to help others find the solution.
Click the KUDOS STAR on the left to say “Thanks” for helping!

Low quality print warning

Several of my photos I want to use in my book show the yellow triangle with !.
I am warned that the photos will print at a low resolution and or print quality. When I printed the same photos on my epson R1800 the images are sharp, clear and high quality. What am I missing here? the images are jpgs about 1000x1100/500kb in size. Sequential photos taken within a minute of each other either have the alert or they do not, is iphoto 6.0.6 buggy?
Photos imported from pictures folder>photoshop elements folder get the same alert. the photos have several layers.

Actually, the warning in books is triggered at 180 dpi. For prints the trigger point appears to be 140 dpi. You can see them in the iPhoto preference file if you use an application like Pref Setter.
The book is printed at 300 dpi and Apple figures 180 or below is suspect for acceptable print quality so the warning.
Do you Twango?
TIP: For insurance against the iPhoto database corruption that many users have experienced I recommend making a backup copy of the Library6.iPhoto database file and keep it current. If problems crop up where iPhoto suddenly can't see any photos or thinks there are no photos in the library, replacing the working Library6.iPhoto file with the backup will often get the library back. By keeping it current I mean backup after each import and/or any serious editing or work on books, slideshows, calendars, cards, etc. That insures that if a problem pops up and you do need to replace the database file, you'll retain all those efforts. It doesn't take long to make the backup and it's good insurance.
I've written an Automator workflow application (requires Tiger), iPhoto dB File Backup, that will copy the selected Library6.iPhoto file from your iPhoto Library folder to the Pictures folder, replacing any previous version of it. You can download it at Toad's Cellar. Be sure to read the Read Me pdf file.
MBP 2.16Ghz; G5 Dual Core 2GHz, 2G RAM ea, 250G HD; G4 Dual 1Ghz, 1.5G RAM; Mac OS X (10.4.9) 22" LCD, 710G FW HDs, Canon: SD700IS/i850/LIDE 50, Epson R200, 30G iPod, 2G Nano

Improved Photo Quality

How do I improve the photo quality ofr printing in Photoshop Elements 2?

Hi LynAcer,
I moved your question from the Photoshop Beginners forum to the Elements forum. I hope you get the answers you need!

Problem with photo quality when exporting interactive pdf

Hi guys!
I made a simple pdf with before/after retouching samples with photos overlayed, changing on mouse rollover.
When I export it as an interactive pdf (on lossless jpeg quality), the photo quality on the final pdf looks like a jpeg on 40% quality, really bad. Rollover works.
When I export it as a pdf for print on high quality - the photo quality in the final pdf is flawless but rollovers dont work.. (I checked "Interactive Elements: Include Appearance) but still nothing..
Pleeease help cause I can't find a way. I just need the rollovers to work and to have the photos in the best quality possible.
Thanks,
Jelena

If you haven't already you need to change the resolution as well. Like this:
72ppi is the default which in theory should be fine for on screen viewing, but play around and use what works for you.

How do you add a date/time stamp to photo before printing?

How do you customize a photo? I want to add a date to a photo before printing.

Some Image Editors That Support layers:
Photoshop Elements 11 for Mac - $79
GraphicConverter - $40
Rainbow Painter - $30
Imagerie - $38
Acorn - $50
Pixelmator - $60
Seashore - Free
GIMP for Mac - Free
Xee 2.1 - free
OT

Printing from Elements 11 with a cannon IP8750 I get horizontal banding right across the print .The printer operates for a distance of 10/12mm then pauses and it does this right throughout the print. it will print perfectly well from aperture, iPhoto an

problems with cannon printing from elements 11 . Get severe horizontal banding from elements but not from other photo software help please

Anyone?

Using a epson photo 2200 printer wirelessly

I have an Epson stylus Photo 2200 printer hooked up to my airport. When I go to print photo quality pictures and go to setting to pick the paper the Epson tools 4 unexpectedly quits. Thus leaving me with no choices in paper..... when I hard wired the printer with a USB it worked as it should.... is this a common problem with a work around or is this the way life is with this printer? Thank you for any help.

Launch the Console application in any of the following ways:
☞ Enter the first few letters of its name into a Spotlight search. Select it in the results (it should be at the top.)
☞ In the Finder, select Go ▹ Utilities from the menu bar, or press the key combination shift-command-U. The application is in the folder that opens.
☞ Open LaunchPad. Click Utilities, then Console in the icon grid.
Step 1
Make sure the title of the Console window is All Messages. If it isn't, select All Messages from the SYSTEM LOG QUERIES menu on the left. If you don't see that menu, select
View ▹ Show Log List
from the menu bar.
Enter the name of the crashed application or process in the Filter text field. Select the messages from the time of the last crash, if any. Copy them to the Clipboard (command-C). Paste into a reply to this message (command-V).
When posting a log extract, be selective. In most cases, a few dozen lines are more than enough.
Please do not indiscriminately dump thousands of lines from the log into this discussion.
Important: Some private information, such as your name, may appear in the log. Anonymize before posting.
Step 2
In the Console window, look under User Diagnostic Reports for crash reports related to the crashed process. The report name starts with the name of the process, and ends with ".crash". Select the most recent report and post the entire contents — again, the text, not a screenshot. In the interest of privacy, I suggest that, before posting, you edit out the “Anonymous UUID,” a long string of letters, numbers, and dashes in the header of the report, if it’s present (it may not be.) Please don’t post shutdownStall, spin, or hang logs — they're very long and not helpful.

How do i convert a RAW photo to JPEG in elements 12??? Thanks for any help!

How can i convert a RAW photo to JPEG using Elements 12??

In general, you open and edit the RAW photo in Adobe Camera RAW, and then either
click on Done and then in the Organizer, FIle->Export->As New File and select JPG
click on Open and then in the Editor do a File->Save As and select JPG
You would NOT want to convert an un-edited RAW to a JPG in general, as you would lose all the benefits of RAW (superior image quality) and while retaining all of the disadvantages of RAW (larger file size, extra steps needed, specialized software needed)

Low quality prints from OSX Yosemite

Hello ladies and gents,
I bought a new colour laser printer yesterday: the Samsung SL-C460WXpress.
I installed the latest OS X drivers and software which I downloaded from the Samsung website. I did the same thing for my Windows machine.
The problem:
When I print from my MBPR with OS X Yosemite, I have barely any options. I can't select the print quality, I can't select the type of photo paper, I basically miss every single option necessary to make good photo prints. As a result, the photos come out granular and of low quality.
When I print from my Windows machine, I can setup my print properties. E.G. paper type (thick, photo matte, photo glossy, etc.), print quality (normal, photo, etc.) and what not. When I set the properties to 'photo' the prints come out amazing.
I don't want to send back the printer, just because OS X is lacking in functionality. Is there anything I can do? Or am I stuck with eithre Windows, or changing printer?
Thanks in advance for your help.
Yours,
Danny

Your initial post was very clear. My response to you was based on your statement of...
When I print from my MBPR with OS X Yosemite, I have barely any options. I can't select the print quality, I can't select the type of photo paper,
My recommendation of contacting the manufacturer and/or reading the user manual still stands if repairing permissions does not work. On some printer/scanners not all of the printer options work in Yosemite. Reason why you need to confirm directly from the manufacturer if the user manual does not state so.
kahjot has already provided you w/repairing permissions instructions.

Calendar photo quality problem

Is there anything that I can do to improve on the low quality print warning that shows up on many of my calendar photos? Is there some adjustment other than selecting fit to frame? Many of these photos were emailed to me from relatives. Most of them are from point and shoot cameras. What is RGB? The photos are in jpeg format. I'm afraid, after many hours of work, that they won't print well. Any suggestions would be appreciatd

Welcome to the Apple Discussions. What are some of the pixel dimensions of the photos giving the warning? Apple gives that warning when the resolution falls below 180 dpi. So for a 5x7 frame you would get a warning if you photo was smaller than 1260 x 900. Knowing what the pixel dimensions of the photos are can let you estimate how much under the 180 limit the photo is for the size of the frame in the calendar you put it in. I personally wouldn't worry at 150 dpi as I've printed at that level before and go good results. It's all depends on what your expectations are.
As far a the color profile goes I doubt any of the jpgs would have CMYK. Digital cameras don't use that color mode.
TIP: For insurance against the iPhoto database corruption that many users have experienced I recommend making a backup copy of the Library6.iPhoto (iPhoto.Library for iPhoto 5 and earlier) database file and keep it current. If problems crop up where iPhoto suddenly can't see any photos or thinks there are no photos in the library, replacing the working Library6.iPhoto file with the backup will often get the library back. By keeping it current I mean backup after each import and/or any serious editing or work on books, slideshows, calendars, cards, etc. That insures that if a problem pops up and you do need to replace the database file, you'll retain all those efforts. It doesn't take long to make the backup and it's good insurance.
I've created an Automator workflow application (requires Tiger or later), iPhoto dB File Backup, that will copy the selected Library6.iPhoto file from your iPhoto Library folder to the Pictures folder, replacing any previous version of it. It's compatible with iPhoto 6 and 7 libraries and Tiger and Leopard. Just put the application in the Dock and click on it whenever you want to backup the dB file. iPhoto does not have to be closed to run the application, just idle. You can download it at Toad's Cellar. Be sure to read the Read Me pdf file.
Note: There's now an Automator backup application for iPhoto 5 that will work with Tiger or Leopard.

How do I get good quality prints using AE and an Epson SPR800 printer

I need to print best quality A4 colour prints for a friend.
My Macbook is connected wirelessly to the home network and prints documents usually on the Epson with no problems.
My questions are:
1. What settings should I use from Aperture to get the best quality print?
2. Should I print from Photoshop CS3 or Elements 6 to give a better print and if so what settings should I select.
3. I have read all about ICC profiles for the printer and paper and have downloaded the latest from the Epson web site and installed but are these being used when I print using the AE. I ask as I seem to remember in the past that to print over the network the settings on the Macbook were saying I had an an Apple Laserwriter P/S driver and not the Epson R800 driver.
4. Would I be better to connect directly via USB to the Macbook?
Any advice greatly appreciated.

Hi, I am also interested in the answer to your question and likewise I am wading through lots of threads with no answers...
I did come across something that recommended importing straight from iDVD rather than using iMovie to send to iDVD ... something to do with it being encoded twice? Also people seem to think that iMovie HD creates higher quality mpegs compared to iMovie 8.
But would be good to find a definitive FAQ about all this. There is this site but it is out of date: http://www.danslagle.com/mac/iMovie/index.shtml.

Photo quality prints in elements 10

Similar Messages

Maybe you are looking for