Photo resolution & movies?!

So, I'm confused. I can create a very nice page, but there are a couple things that I can't figure out:
1. Photo resolution. My photos seem to automatically downsample (the large version) to 800x600. That's great if I want them to, but what if I don't?!
-related: is it possible to link a file? ie "add link to download"?
2. Movies cannot be put on a photo grid. That *****. I take pictures and movies with my digital camera, and I want to show both in a gallery.
3. It's unclear to me how updating works. That is, if I publish to a folder, and I update a page or add a new one, do I have to do everything again? ie publish to folder and upload the entire thing? That seems like quite a waste of bandwidth!
1.6GHz 17" powerbook   Mac OS X (10.4.4)  

The file opens and plays back fine in the quicktime player. I am using quicktime 7.3. the link to the file in question is:
http://www.istockphoto.com/filecloseup/who/emotions/happiness/2532172_tropical_water_scene_with_pastels_andboat.php?id=2532172

Similar Messages

  • Photo To Movie - A solution to Jaggy edges to a moving still?  (Ken Burns)

    Hello Hello
    I know folks have talked about this before ......
    I recently received a tip about 'Photo to Movie', and how it improves those Jaggy images (the outer parameter of a photo), that can be seen in both Quicktime (on your computer screen), AND from a burned DVD on your TV.
    Well I have to admit that 'Photo to Movie' definitely helps remove the Jaggies.
    BUT
    Is is just me - or is it true that there is less quality in those panned and zoomed images as compared to iMovie? It certainly looks so to me ...... perhaps less detail .... on the TV screen
    Ya know when iMovie HD came out, I immediately saw an improvement in the resolution of burned movies onto a DVD on the TV.
    I've read the other posts about the Jaggy problem in Pans and Zooms including these solutions:
    Workaround #1 is to turn ON the Ken Burns Effect before importing an image.
    (I always do that)
    Workaround #2 is to convert still images to good quality video with Photo To Movie. Photo To Movie and Still Life have more features than iMovie's built-in Ken Burns effect. Photo To Movie's High Quality setting renders still images into very good quality video that doesn't flicker when viewed on a TV.
    (I just bought Photo to Movie - it works)
    But again is there a trade off in perhaps less detail in the images?
    Thanx

    When you look at movies, or frames of movies, in iMovie, you're looking at the entire frame. So if you import photos into iMovie, and don't use any panning or zooming, you'll see the entire photo ..but - as Karsten and Matthew say - at a reduced quality than the original photo(s), because movie resolution is lower than photo resolution.
    To create a zoom out or pan effect across a picture, you obviously have to start with a smaller area of the picture than the area of the full photo. You then travel across the photo, still using a smaller area than the full photo, or you zoom out until you're looking at the entire photo.
    If you start with a smaller section that the full photo, then if the photo has only a little higher resolution than video (..say it's a 3 megapixel photo..) then that smaller section has to be automatically enlarged to fill the entire video frame, so the apparent resolution of that smaller area of the entire picture will probably appear to be less sharp than the overall, entire photo.
    It's like examining a newspaper photo with a magnifying glass: you'll start to see the detail of the dots which comprise the photo, instead of seeing the overall photo as a whole.
    The higher the resolution of the original photo - e.g; 8 or 10 megapixels - the less will seem to be the quality loss as you pan or zoom across a small region of it.
    But if you start with a 2, 3 or perhaps 5 megapixel photo, then - depending on how far you zoom "into" it - you may well see a poorer quality image in the panned or zoomed sections than you would see on the overall image.
    ..As in the film "Blow-Up" ..the more you magnify something, the less clear it can become ..unless maybe you're using an electron microscope..

  • Photo resolution on new computer

    I have noticed that the photo resolution on my new system is much smaller than on my old G4 iBook. The original size of the photos was in 1-2 meg size with great resolution. Now they are 40-50K. When I export them to a digital photo frame they are really poor. What have I done wrong?

    Yes
    Quit iPhoto and drag the iPhoto library to the desktop (after completing everything successfully you will delete this library) and connect the two computers (network, firewire target mode, etc) and drag the iPhoto library form the pictures folder form the old machine to the same place in the new machine (a single drag - do not move pieces of the library) and launch iPhoto on the new machine - you should be fine - and once you are trash the bad iPhoto library from the desktop
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  • Bonjour Sharing & Photo Resolution

    I am trying to share my iPhoto library with other accounts on my home computer (and other users on the home network).
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    Yes
    Quit iPhoto and drag the iPhoto library to the desktop (after completing everything successfully you will delete this library) and connect the two computers (network, firewire target mode, etc) and drag the iPhoto library form the pictures folder form the old machine to the same place in the new machine (a single drag - do not move pieces of the library) and launch iPhoto on the new machine - you should be fine - and once you are trash the bad iPhoto library from the desktop
    LN

  • Acceptable and Quality Still Photo Resolution for HDV Documentary

    I've scanned through several pages of posts on photo resolution here, but I haven't actually found a simple answer to a beginner's question. Two, actually:
    1. If someone is supplying you with still photo prints for scanning and use in a documentary (shot in HDV, edited on FCP5), is there a particular size print that you should ask for? Does the broadcast venue (theatrical, TV, etc.) have any relevance?
    2. If someone is scanning photos and sending you a CD with them, what are the specs (size, resolution, etc.) you should ask for? And are there "minimum acceptable" specs and "preferred, high quality" specs?
    Thanks.
    Paul S.
    Power Mac G5 [email protected]; 4GB RAM   Mac OS X (10.4.4)   FCP 5 (FC Studio), Logic Express, Presonus Firebox

    Having worked on several long-form historical docos with hundreds of source photo scans, I'd highly recommend getting the originals in as high a resolution as you can (at least 300 DPI), and getting the entire photo scanned. You just never know when you need to apply pans or zooms or crop into a particular area to improve the edit, and there are many simple ways to prep the selected photos for import.
    The simplest is just to do the scaling & cropping in FCP. It will do a fine job of this, but if it turns out most of the photos will be static, you can waste computer resources by importing unnecessarily-large images. As mooblie pointed out, you strictly only need enough resolution to prevent scaling up past 100%, as this will create pixelated lower quality output.
    The most common way to prep scans is in Photoshop, where you can scale the image to a desired pixel size very easily. I'd still leave the image at its natural frame size (as scanned), so you have the most creative choice when you are framing it in the timeline using FCPs cropping & motion tabs tools.
    If you've got lots of photos and lots of pans & zooms, consider using one of the third-party tools that will help with this, such as Photo to Movie from LQ Graphics, Moving Picture from StageTools, or even the plugin for FCP I wrote to help with the docos I mentioned above. It's called Pan Zoom Pro and you can see about it and download a demo here: http://www.lyric.com/fcp-plugins/index.htm#pzp .
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    John
    Lyric Media

  • Ken Burns vs Photo to Movie test

    I did a quick simple test to see how iMovie's Ken Burns and Photo to Movie manage high resolution, high frequency still images as their input:
    I made a 3150x1728 (5 megapixel) TIF image. I chose that particular ratio because it completely fills both NTSC and PAL 16:9 frame when imported to iMovie HD 5-6's widescreen project.
    I inserted 1 pixel thin horizontal and vertical black stripes at every 100 pixel. That kind of thin (high frequency) lines tend to flicker on a TV unless they are blurred.
    Then I imported the still to a widescreen NTSC (I chose NTSC for Karl, Fred, Kirk and other NTSC-geared geeks iMovie HD 6.0.3 project and applied a 2 second 1-5x zoom to it.
    I did a similar zoom with Photo to Movie 3.2.2's High Quality export setting and compared the results...
    Well, the iMovie zoom-in was quite interesting: at modest zoom factors many stripes were omitted and the stripes disappeared and appeared as the zoom progressed! Some stripes were rendered grayish, but they were always 1 pixel thin (a recipe for flicker on a TV!). Only near the end of the zoom-in, all the stripes appeared and begun to grow thicker (and non-flickery on a TV).
    The Photo to Movie zoom-in was much "duller": all stripes were preserved and they were slightly blurred (which prevents flicker on a TV).
    The winner: Photo to Movie.
    The input TIF and 2 second output .dv files are below (to my surprise the 15 MB input zipped to only 1.8 MB with this material). I turned ON the high quality display for you in the .dv files, but verify that the setting sticks when viewing them with QuickTime Player Pro. You can advance one frame at a time via the left/right arrow keys.
    http://www.saunalahti.fi/~shmhav/kenburnstest.zip

    Discussing DVD playback on a TV, Matti said:
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    was full of artifacts and lots of flicker with the
    moderate zoom factors. Gaussian blur was also quite
    bad while the 875x480 downsampled TIF was very
    peaceful. Of course the 875x480 was somewhat fuzzy
    with the extreme zoom factors.
    Photo To Movie's Higher Quality setting was very
    peaceful with practically no flicker on the TV.
    I admit that this is an artificial and a very
    difficult test image. But I have seen the same
    artifacts with real JPGs as well if there are hard
    lines in the image (buildings, wires, waves, fine
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    I've seen similar results here too, burning perhaps a hundred DVDs in the last few weeks. The goal was to compare DVD slideshows created by iMovie, Photo to Movie and FotoMagico. Matti's conclusions look familiar.
    My tests used photos that are the most difficult for iMovie to handle, lots of hard lines, buildings, wires, fences, roof lines, etc.
    When the goal is to burn a DVD, Photo to Movie consistently delivers good quality with a variety of source images. The quality is good across a range of image sizes and content. If you like working in Photo to Movie, you can be quite confident you'll get good results.
    But I like working in iMovie, so the goal of my tests was to find a way to make iMovie work better. The solution was to downsize the image before importing it to iMovie.
    As Matti suggested, iMovie delivers good results if the source image is downsized before importing to iMovie. Virtually all flicker is eliminated by downsizing to 640x480 (NTSC) or 768x578 (PAL). (Downsize less if you plan to use a 2x or greater Ken Burns zoom.)
    Downsizing is easily done with iPhoto's File > Export command. It takes just a few seconds to export new copies of photos at the new size.
    So is Photo to Movie "better" than iMovie for slideshows? Sometimes Yes, if you don't want to resize problem images. But often not, at least from my tests. iMovie can deliver fine results too. And to be fair to iMovie, it has other advantages.
    Note: Our tests may have little in common with the pictures you often shoot, the people pictures, the landscapes, the other "soft" images. They are WAY easier for iMovie to handle, and may not require downsizing. It depends on the photo's content.
    Karl

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    This has been available in fcp for a long long time.
    Wow, you are right.  Now that you mention it, I can't believe I never noticed that.  Thanks.
    Only if you have the 'Self-Contained' box checked.  Otherwise you'll end up with a reference movie.
    Correct.  That box is typically checked by default.  There are other default settings you could change that would not result in a full-quality version, but what I meant was hitting that option from the pull-down menu, then changing nothing and hitting ok.

  • How do I make new albums in photos and move picture from one album to another

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    Hello,
    Thank you for your post.
    This is a quick note to let you know that we are performing research on this issue.
    If you have feedback for TechNet Subscriber Support, contact
    [email protected]
    Simon Wu
    TechNet Community Support

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    Hello, eco1. 
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    http://support.apple.com/kb/ht1449
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