Photos look different in Light room vs. PS2 or any other photo software

Using LR2,PS2 and ACDSee8.0 on windows xp pro. I have no trouble exporting or importing photos to LR. My problem is the photos have a different tone or color in light room. When I make changes and export to say photoshop, its as if no changes were transferred to Photoshop. Best way I can describe is: Nature photo looks like evening light in LR and exported to PS2 looks like midday original light. Any Ideas?

Recalibrate your display. This is the clear symptom of a bad monitor profile (or of an incorrectly setup Photoshop but that is more rare.)

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Photos look different (bad) when placed in InDesign CS4

I'm having a problem in that my photos look bad when viewed in InDesign. I labor on my photos until they're looking perfect in Photoshop -- with just the right color balance and tonalities -- but when I place them in ID, they look much darker and redder, or oversaturated. Then I look at them again in Photoshop, and they look fine. What gives? Which program is showing the real state of the photo? Btw, the photos are using the same color profile in both programs and the monitor is unchanged b/w viewings.
I'm wondering if anyone has had a similar experience and what I can do about this? It makes me very nervous to see my photos looking so bad in InDesign, where I prepare my layouts for offset printing. Will they print as I see them in Photoshop or will they print as I see them in InDesign (which would be dreadful)? At this point I'm hesitant to make further adjustments and hoping it's the Photoshop view that's correct.
But why is this happening in the first place? Is there some setting I should be fixing? Or is there a color issue or incompatiblity b/w Photoshop and InDesign that I'm unaware of?
I'm using ID and Photoshop CS4 on Mac OSX 10.4.11
Hope someone out there can help me with this issue.
Thanks in advance!
Scarlett

There's a discrepancy in the way Photoshop and ID display images on the screen. I wasn't aware of this before.
If your display performance is set at High Quality there's no significant difference in the way color is displayed between PS and ID. The screen capture linked below shows a CMYK file with no profile assigned, side by side in ID and PS. The ID file has no profile assigned and the CMYK Working Spaces are the same for both programs:
http://www.zenodesign.com/scripts/IDPS.png
You can check the RGB values of the screen capture in Photoshop and there is virtually no difference—I could only find an occasional 1 gray level in 1 channel shift.
If you are seeing a color change with a High Quality display setting then chances are you have a color management issue.
Syncing your Color Settings doesn't guarantee matching color between the programs because you are just syncing the program's Working Spaces, and they don't necessarily color manage the documents (assigned profiles override the Working Space). If you are assigning profiles in PS, the assigned profiles need to match your ID doc's assigned profile (which could be different then the ID Working Space)

Dark areas in photos looks different in Loupe and Develope

First let me say that I´ve created a similar thread in lightroomforums.net.
Let me also add that I´ve made extensive research on the web and also read this post: Why does the color and or tone of my image change after import?
This is my current setup.
I run lightroom 5.6, OSX 10.10.
I have been shooting with a 7D or a EOS M in RAW, Adobe RGB With picture style set to standard and no JPG´s.
I have imported my photos as DNG´s with no develop settings applied and build previews set to 1:1 (I have tried different settings here).
I have my Catalog Settings / Preview Cache set to 2880 pixels, quality: High (I have also tried different settings here) (I have a very big screen)
Now to my problem.
Now when I review my photos in 1:1 (or any other size) the dark areas looks good in develop module but when i go back to Loupe the dark areas have a slightly brighter, less contrast look.
This problem only occurs in the darkest parts and does not effect the rest of the image. The overall picture looks the same except for the very darkest parts.
I have tried different monitor calibration settings but the issue persists.
I have tried to create a new catalog, import some new shots but with no difference.
I have also done the same but instead of import to DNG´s I have copied the CR2´s, no difference.
I have tried to optimized the catalog and I have also "Update DNG previews and metadata", no difference.
When "edit file in photoshop CC" the version of the photo that opens in photoshop is the "Loupe" view.
This only happens with RAW/DNG files and not with TIFF or JPG.
Here is a picture that in my case looks very bad in Loupe view but significantly better in Develop View: Dropbox - IMG_3662.dng
I will also try to post two screendumps at 2:1 from the the two views. The picture with more darks in it is the screendump from the develop module and the less dark is from the loupe view.
Why is this occurring? How can I stop it?
Any help is highly appreciated.
UPDATE:
I have taken 4 new shots with the same setup as described above.
But with different color settings and picture styles.
Adobe RGB - Standard
Adobe RGB - Neutral
sRGB - Standard
sRGB - Neutral
With the same results. Dark areas look darker in Develope module.
Message was edited by: K E I added some extra information

ELBE wrote:
Here's my problem:
Magic Wand is configured like this:
Tolerance: 0
Continuous [sic]: Not active [emphasis added] …
There indeed is your problem. Check the "Contiguous" box:

Photo looks different when decreasing exposure with adj. brush & when decreasing exp. on whole photo

I want to darken the overexposed sky in a photo. I reduced the exposure ( - 4 EV) of the whole photo to see how the sky would look. It looked great. Deep blue sky with white clouds with light gray areas. Then I reset the exposure & painted the sky with the adjustment brush set to Exposure - 4 EV. The sky looked terrible. Clouds were dark grayish black in some areas. I increased the exposure to - 3 EV & then - 2.5 EV & it looked less terrible but not good. Why is there such a difference in the way the sky looks when changing the exposure of the whole photo & changing it with the adjustment brush. Thanks!

It is a known issue with how the adjustment brush works in exposure
compensation mode. Hopefully it will be fixed in the future.
I want to darken the overexposed sky in a photo. I reduced the exposure ( - 4
EV) of the whole photo to see how the sky would look. It looked great. Deep
blue sky with white clouds with light gray areas. Then I reset the exposure &
painted the sky with the adjustment brush set to Exposure - 4 EV. The sky
looked terrible. Clouds were dark grayish black in some areas. I increased the
exposure to - 3 EV & then - 2.5 EV & it looked less terrible but not good. Why
is there such a difference in the way the sky looks when changing the exposure
of the whole photo & changing it with the adjustment brush. Thanks!

Trouble with photos looking different after exporting to LR5

I am new to lightroom 5. My photos do not look the same after exporting to CD or to a photo lab for printing. I am exporting to my hard drive before burning to CD. Can someone help? I am starting with RAW or CR2 files before editing.

What export settings are you using. For jpegs I always choose color space as sRGB (unless the printer requests Argb) and then I set print size, with resolution between 240 and 300 ppi. For glossy paper I choose a high sharpening setting.
It’s also possible to print a whole batch to jpeg files using the Print Module (see image below). You can then set an output value for brightening and contrast.
This can be useful as many people using uncalibrated monitors often find prints look darker than shown on their PC. When using for the first time it’s well worthwhile doing a test batch using different settings to see which gives you the best results.

Photos look different in Photoshop than when viewed with Picture Viewer

I am running Windows XP, using Photoshop CS2, with a Samsung SyncMaster LCD monitor. I have recently noticed that my picures look different when viewing with Picture Viewer than when the same picture is opened in Photoshop. The photoshop version is much lighter while the pic viewer version is darker. I want to make sure of what I'm sending to my online printers. Do I have color setting wrong? My color setting in Photoshop are: sRGB IEC61966-2.1, U.S. Web Coated (SWOP) v2, Dot Gain 20%, and Dot Gain 20%. And preserved embedded profiles for RGB, CMYK, and Gray. Is the problem with calibrating my monitor, and if so, do you know of any free calibration software? I'm on a budget.
I appreciate any help. Thanks.

Well, it surely is a problem with your monitor settings, but, forgive me for saying this, mentioning "sending stuff to the printers" and then asking for free calibration software is a bit naive. If Adobe Gamma, the settings in PS itself and the color calibration in Windows don't cut it, then your system is seriously bent in terms of color and some other steps are required first.
a) reset your monitor to its default color temperature and brightness
b) get rid of any color tweaking your graphics card may introduce
With a clean slate, create a color reference image (pure colors, grayscale gradient) with all color calibration turned off and see how it looks at the system level and in PS. Now you can begin to adjust settings everywhere and re-enable color profiles until the results match in sRGB space.
The rest is pretty much unpredictable. Unless you gain access to the exact color profiles of the target device (the printer) and your monitor is properly hardware calibrated, there will always be minute variations. The only thing you can do is to solely rely on your visually aligned sRGB setup and have all color profile adjustments and color space conversions done at your printer. However, even that's assuming you do not wander too far off the default values and the sRGB is indeed "intact".
Mylenium

Photos look awful in Photoshop & Bridge but fine in all other programs; how can i fix this?

I just got a new windows 7 64-bit laptop (Sony Vaio vpcf226fm/b) and installed photoshop cs5 extended on it and began to look through some of my photos with Bridge and notied that they were all very washed out and desaturated. In addition, certain parts of some of the pictures were very low-resolution...I'm not exactly sure how to describe it, but darker parts of the photos would have the same sort of effect you get when saving an gif image at very low quality. Id take a screenshot but unfortunately am not at home right now. Anyway, I thought the laptop might be messed up but the same pictures look fine when viewed in any other program...its just photoshop and bridge that they appear so poorly in. I messed around with the color settings but couldn't make much progress...finally the only thing that I found to work was, with an image open, to go to View - Proof Colors and that would make the photo appear the same as in the rest of the programs, without the washed out/desaturated look and without the lo-resolution areas. I can't find a way to make that stick, though, or a way to apply it to Bridge.
So what can I do? And what's likely to be causing this in the first place?

Alright, I'm back home now.
Here's what I mean about the major difference in saturation...the top photo is a screenshot from Canon's Zoombrowser software and the bottom photo is a screenshot of the same photo in Adobe Bridge CS5:
As you can see, there's also a greyish/bluish tint when viewed with Photoshop/Bridge as well.
And here's what I mean about parts of some of the photos being very low-resolution...you can see it especially well in this underexposed photo (the lower left and right corners and the edges of the clouds), again Zoombrowser on top and Bridge on the bottom:
What are your Edit > Color Settings? (A screenshot might be more convenient than typing it up.)
Have the images been saved with the ICC-Profiles embedded or not?
Here's a screenshot of the color settings:
Also, the images haven't been saved by anything else before, they're straight off the camera, unedited.
How have you calibrated your display? And have you changed your display controls since it was calibrated?
Basically, this is a symptom of your display profile not matching your display, and it'll only affect color managed applications that rely on the display profile.
I haven't calibrated the display and wasn't really planning to since it's a laptop and is going to be used mainly for photo and video viewing rather than editing; my desktop is what I do almost all my editing work with, but since this laptop is new and much faster I was planning on using it to sort through and organize all my hundreds of thousands of photos, then transfer that selection to my desktop for post-processing. However, it's still important that I have a fairly accurate display on the laptop since I don't want to delete something that looks bad if it turns out that it only looked bad because of the laptop's display.
I put the new laptop next to my desktop's monitor and then borrowed two other laptops and put those on the same table too and had all four computers display the same image; the laptop was clearly the odd one out both when viewing the image in Photoshop as well as when viewing it in Zoombrowser. In Zoombrowser it was far more bright and saturated than the other 3 displays and in Photoshop it was far less saturated than the other 3, plus it had low-resolution areas like in the second screenshot whereas the other 3 did not...so I'm not sure what to do now. The non-color managed photos are apparently being displayed inaccurately by being overly bright and saturated and the color-managed photos are being displayed inaccurately by being too desaturated plus having lo-res areas. Any help?

Photos look different on distilled pdf than photoshop edit

I have a customer who prints her tabloid with us> Yesterday she sent a couple screen shots to show me the difference in her black and white photos
that she edits in photoshop compared to that edited pic on the finished pdf which she then sends to me.
She is concerned because the photo in photoshop after she edits it to what she wants it to look like looks considerably lighter on the pdf.
Anyone know what causes this?
thanks

It all depends on the print condition, the accuracy of the ICC profiles, and the accuracy of the display (the monitor needs to be properly calibrated and profiled).
Black ink only can print pretty dark and rich using a sheetfed press and a #1 coated sheet. So much depends on the characteristics of the paper and the solid black ink density. Still, no halftone can ever print as deep as a black and white image using CMYK, or 2 hits of black.
Generally speaking the default dot gain 20 is not the most accurate profile for grayscale. The absolute best course of action is to obtain a CMYK profile from the printer or get them to recommend one. Then a grayscale profile can be generated from this CMYK very easily. If you are interested I can tell you how.

If I convert NEF into DNG the photo looks different

If I convert a NEF into a DNG, the DNG looks underexposed in comparison with the NEF. Why is this happening? I understood that it would be better to convert my photos into DNG because it is a universal RAW format but, it doesn't look anymore as I saw it on my camera.

Corina_PC wrote:
Why is this happening?
Because the preview (jpeg, embedded) in the DNG is a re-rendering based on Adobe defaults. It's not the same embedded preview that came in your NEF (which was created, initially anyway, in the camera).
To better understand, it helps to know how the story unfolds from the beginning:
When you press the shutter release, the camera takes the raw image data from the sensor, folds in the camera settings, crunches it through the Nikon image processing "engine", and compresses the result into a jpeg, which it subsequently stores (along with the raw data) in the raw NEF file, and shows you on the back of the camera, etc.
When you convert to DNG, Lightroom does something similar: it takes the raw image data from the raw file, ignores most of the camera settings (except, for example, white balance), crunches it through the Adobe image processing "engine", and compresses the result into a jpeg, which it subsequently stores in the raw DNG file, and shows you via OS codecs or in ACR, or Lr...
So, bottom line, you are just seeing the difference between current renderings of Nikon vs. Adobe. If you edit the NEF in NX2, the preview will be updated when you save the NEF. If you edit the DNG in ACR or Lr, you can also update the preview to reflect the current edits.
etc...
Hope this helps,
Rob.

I saved photo into iPhoto slideshow, but now I can't find it. I wanted to open it in iPhoto so I could edit the photo and make it lighter. How can I find the photos I saved into iPhoto slideshow?

I need advise about saving photos into iPhoto. When I chose to save a photo, I chose it to be saved into iPhoto slideshow because that's the only choice I had that mentioned iPhoto. Now I can't find the photo in iPhoto. What did I do wrong?

Post in the iPhoto forum where those experts are.

TS4062 I've done all of these recommended steps. My problem is that I have a new laptop that I am trying to sync my iPhone (and iPad for that matter) via Wi-Fi but both devices are looking for the old laptop to sync. Any other suggestions?

I've done all of these recommended steps. My problem is that I have a new laptop that I am trying to sync my iPhone (and iPad for that matter) via Wi-Fi but both devices are looking for the old laptop to sync. My iTunes is version 11.0..3.42, iPhone is 6.1.4, and iPad 6.1.3. Any suggestions?

All I had to do was complain. I synced my iPhone to the Windows machine, checked the other account at iTunes prompting (where no apps had shown up previously), reconnected the iPad, and 140 apps downloaded including the App Store. I have no idea why.

Why photos already uploaded to Ipad are erased when I sync other photos using Itunes ?

Why previous photos uploaded to Ipad (retina) are erased when I sync it through Itunes to upload additional photos ?

To keep the photos previously loaded when you previously synced you have to continue to select them when syncing additional photos. If you don't they will be deleted.

HT2498 How do I import photos from my camera without being forced to use any silly mac software?

I haev a PC as well as a new Mac Mini.
It has always bugged me that Mac seems to force me to use a silly image managment software (like iphoto) to import photos from my camera when i plug it in.
On my PC (windows 7) it simply recognizes it as a "removable storage device" and i can access the flash memory as if it was a hard drive and simply drag my photos to a folder on my computer. (this same technique works with my iphone photos)
However on my Mac it seems there is no way to open up the flash memory and just drag photos off and manually import and manage my photos. I do not like all of the complicated software to complete a simple task like this.
Am i missing something? if so please fill me in. thanks!

Mac seems to force me to use a silly image managment software (like iphoto) to import photos from my camera
It does not force you to do that.
Open iPhoto, go to iPhoto / Preferences and change the setting so no application opens when the camera is connected.
Whether you change the setting or not, the camera does indeed appear as a "removable storage device". At least mine does:
And you can double click the camera icon and navigate the contents. The contents are shown exactly as they would be on any "storage device":
Thus you have the option in iPhoto preferences to let it do it for you, or do it yourself if that is your choice.

Any other mozaic-themed photo galleries?

Hello all.. apologies if this query has been raised earlier.
I was considering purchasing the iPhoto app primarily for the Photo Journal feature.I have 2 queries around this-
1. Is there any prerequisite (like any purchase of iCloud space) to use this feature?
2. I love the mozaic-themed photo presentation in photo journals. Would you know if there are any other photo sharing/hosting sites which provide such themed presenetation of photos?
Thanks.

1.) Your Apple ID should get you 5gb of free iCloud space to play with. You can pay for more as and when you want to.
2.) Don't know...
tt2

How do i get my catalogs back on light room?

After burning a disk of photos, I lost all my catalogs. The photos are still on my hardrive but all my light room catalogs show 0 (except the photos i just burned on the disk). My question is how do i get those photos back into Lr?

It is possible you either accidentally moved your catalog file or accidentally opened a new catalog. Look under File->Open Recent and try all the catalogs listed there to see if that is your main catalog.
If that doesn't work, you might want to open a recent backup of your catalog file.

Photos look different in Light room vs. PS2 or any other photo software

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