Photoshop - Fade is onion ringed with high contrast? - No true fade possible?

Hi everyone, am I being totally stupid (possible) or can you just not get a true fade on a computer / Photoshop?!
Any image I take, if I make the contrast high enough, the fade / vignette gets onion ringing. I paint with the most
blurry brush, I can 'Blur' it ad nauseum, and it doesn't really change it. Is it a mode, I've tried Adobe RGB 98 and
sRGB. This doesn't seem to be a common problem, but mabye people don't notice it too much? PLEASE HELP!
Thanks!
Guy

What you want to do is work in 16 bits/channel mode.
With a good monitor and video card, you can see the distinctions between each of the 256 levels of grayscale. This is also sometimes visible in nearly solid colors as well - such as skies.
Video cards and monitors generally provide 8 bit/channel color, but they don't always maintain that all the way through. Better ones do, and now we're starting to see the advent of 10 bit/channel pipelines, though that's not mature.
What you see on the monitor isn't necessarily what's in the document, especially if you use deep data, as I mentioned above.
From the sound of things, it seems as though your video card / monitor pipeline isn't providing very high bit depth at some point in the process. As you were told in another thread (if I recall correctly) a poorly set monitor and a radical profile created by a calibrator to compensate could be involved in this.
-Noel

Similar Messages

When slowly panning , objects or areas with high contrast , flicker / shake

Hello,
I purchased a canon 5d mark3 to use mostly as a video camera. I'm experiencing a very frustrating issue (I'm explaining it in more detail below).
I've been in contact with canon repair facility and tech support for the past 2 months (since I first purchased the camera. I sent the camera for repair already twice and both times I got the camera back after supposedly been “fixed” but the exact same issue is still there… I’m already frustrated and confused about this… I haven't had an answer or a solution as today.
I'm wondering if anybody else is having a similar issue. I did find some people online complaining of a similar problem but most of those pages are a year old or so.
I have been also researching and looking to all kinds of videos (specially at vimeo) where the 5d mark3 it's been used and even in more extreme and faster panning I don't see the same issue I'm experiencing.
Some technicians at canon think it may be an issue with the lens ( 24 - 105 canon lens that comes with the camera).
I did run all kinds of tests etc (even at B&H where I purchased it) with no luck .
Here is a more detail description of the issue:
The problem is that (even with a fluid head tripod) when slowly panning , objects or areas with high contrast , flicker / shake (most noticeable on white objects with daylight over a dark surface). This happens at 24 and 30 fps (not at 60fps) The technician on the phone mentioned that I should use higher shutter speeds (I was using 1/50 for 24fps and 1/60 for 30fps) I did try it with several shutter speeds all the way up to 4000 and the issue is even more noticeable. I tried with and without IS with the same result. I actually probably I already tested all the different settings always with the same results.
I will appreciate any ideas or knowledge on this issue …also I would like to hear from other users with the same problem…
Here I uploaded a few examples:
https://vimeo.com/67316435
https://vimeo.com/67317744
https://vimeo.com/67316436
https://vimeo.com/62621099
Thanks

Ok so really? nobody has nothing to say about it? why? nobody can see the issue? nobody cares? or is just uncomfortable?any canon tech reading the forums?

How to correct edges with high contrast?

I have been looking for a solution to edge correction for a long time. As all of you have noticed, SD and HD video camcorders are producing a "sharpening" or extra contrast in edges of high contrast. Here's a typical example (a part of a HD frame), where you can see the darker edge on the shoulders, arm and around the window frames.
My question is: does anyone know an (automated) way to correct this? An effect or a method for instance in After Effects? Please, let me know if you have a solution.

Hi again Todd,
thanks for the reply!
Well, yes that's obvious, but please, as you should have seen in the
image (small part of a HD image), the image is shot with quite low
sharpening adjustments in the camera!!!
As you also should know that this is a very usual problem, that cannot
be totally avoided in the camera. So, please let me know any better
ideas.

GPU-version of Gaussian Blur sometimes produces visible ringing artifacts on high contrast images

Hi,
I noticed some annoying ringing artifacts in my footage after applying the GaussianBlur() from the PrSDKGPUImageProcessingSuite.
I assume the blur implementation is the same as in the 'Gaussian Blur' Video Effect. So I tested with that effect standalone and was able reproduce the problem.
The ringing artifacts appear in high contrasted footage (see screenshots) and only with the GPU-version of the blur.
Switching to software-only renderer and therefore enforcing the CPU-version of the effect removes the artifacts.
Has anybody already noticed this issue?
Regards,
Philipp
Gaussian Blur (CPU) without artifacts:
Gaussian Blur (GPU) with artifacts:

The "blocky" details are easily reproduced in that image. Looks like something that needs to be tuned up to me.
Note that you have the option of choosing the 2003 process in Camera Raw, which appears to avoid that issue.
I just want to add one thing: There's no upsampled resolution available for this particular camera. 6048 x 4032 is the largest size available. I for one prefer to convert my raw files directly to upsampled resolutions on the theory that it might improve this kind of thing (and it does seem to deliever more accurate detail with my now out-of-date Canon cameras). At some point in the past I requested that Camera Raw make several upsampled resolutions available beyond the "native" camera size for any/all cameras. I hereby renew that request.
-Noel

How to copy objects from Pages (5.5.1) and paste it into Photoshop as a vector smart object with high resolution?

I recently have bought a new Macbook Pro (Version 10.10.1) with the OS X Yosemite. The computer comes with the new Pages (version 5.5.1).
Here is the problem: I like to create artwork using the shapes on Pages. Previously, on my old mac, I used Pages 4.3 to create objects, which I would copy then paste to Photoshop and it would become a vector smart object. However, in the new Pages (version 5.5.1), when I copy objects, they would appear on Photoshop as instead, a layer and it would not be in full resolution.
Also, I know there is nothing wrong with the Pages file itself because I have converted the document to PDF form and it is high resolution when inserted into Photoshop that way.
Does anyone know how I can copy individual objects from Pages (5.5.1) and paste it into Photoshop as a vector smart object with high resolution as I have done before?
Thanks!

ghotiz wrote:
copy the image and have it in a high-quality PNG format that does not include the background from the Pages document.
Oh, well if you don't actually need vector objects then it looks like this is possible. As I said earlier, Pages is putting a PNG on the clipboard. I tested it and it does paste into Photoshop as a transparent layer, because I can see the transparent background of the pasted PNG graphic if I either turn off all layers behind it in Photoshop, or if I start a new Photoshop document to paste into but make sure I choose Transparent for the Background Contents in the New Document dialog.

Best lens/settings for outdoor shots (high contrast) with 6D?

I have a 6D I'm just getting started with. When I get a perfect shot (perfect lighting, color saturation, depth of field, etc), I LOVE it! The trouble is, I'm not getting enough of them. Not capturing what my eye sees with good repeatablilty. I have the following lenses for it: The 70-300mm zoom that came with it; a 24-105mm; a 17-40mm ultra wide angle; and a 50mm 1.4 fixed (dumb impulse purchase that I haven't found too useful). I am planning a trip to our tulip festival, and there will be loads of colors and likely high contrast as it will be a mostly sunny day with some clouds. PERFECT, right? Except I find that many times, particularly on my full auto settings, I am not getting the exposures I want! The photos often turn out kinda washed out, without the full saturation I want. And sadly, I'm just not able to compensate for that with the photo editing software I have. As I said, I'm just a beginner and don't want to lug around a manual with me to read while trying to get a good shot, so...anyone have any quick and dirty advice for which of my lenses will be the best to use for distance vs closeup of the flowers, and what settings to use with it? Full auto vs A, AV, or full manual? And if I use full manual, what priority do I want to get the best saturation? Urgh, I hope this isn't too crazy wide-open of a question to be able to get good helpful responses, it's hard to know what to ask. I just want to get some really good, color-rich, good depth and texture photos without a lot of thinking, lol. Thanks! PS-- I'm thinking of selling my 50mm and maybe one of my other ones to get a different one with better ranges. Any suggestions? I tend to do a lot of wildlife and landscapes, if that's any help, and find sometimes that the 300mm doesn't cut it.
Thanks again!

FIrst of all, it takes time to learn how to use a complex camera system well, so don't beat up on yourself a lot or give up on the gear you already have too quickly. Keep taking lots of photos, analyzing them and how you might have made them better. All cameras and lenses have their ideal uses and limits, it's just a matter of learning them and there's no substitute for experience. Get the book "Understanding Exposure" by Bryan Peterson and read it, study it, learn it. That's the best single book every semi-serious to serious photographer who wants to improve their skills should read.... Might turn out to be the best $18 you ever spend on your photography.
The various exposure modes each have their uses. I see some people suggest using M (manual) only... but that's slower and limiting and there are times it will prevent you from "getting the shot". Av (aperture priority), Tv (shutter priority) and even P (program) all have their uses. I like to set my camera to M and forget it, but that's really only possible when lighting is very steady and consistent or I have time to carefully set up each shot.
Much of the time I have to use Av or Tv because of variable lighting conditions. This can be because of intermittent clouds changing the intensity of light itself, or because I'm trying to capture shots of a subject that's moving in and out of different lighting. I tend to use Program when I just need a quick shot in different light than I've been working, and don't have time to calculate my exposure and am not very concerned about depth of field (aperture) or freezing or blurring subject movement (shutter speed). All three of these auto exposure modes (as Canon calls them) require experience with and knowledge of how subject tonality effects the camera's reflective metering system and how to use Exposure Compensation to correct for it.
There's a "tool" built right into your camera that can help you learn about the exposure controls and how your choices with them effect your images.... On the top dial there's a "CA" setting, which is a great learning tool that will give you feedback on the LCD screen about your settings. This might take the place of carrying around the manual and consulting it before each shot. Try it!
Personally I don't use the "SCN" or "Green Box/A+" modes, both of which are super auto exposure... That dictate a lot more camera settings than just exposure. These also limit focus modes, file types, color rendition, and more. Av, Tv, P are plenty of automation for me.
A lot of your questions seem to be about lighting. If you ever watch a movie being shot or a pro making still portraits or macro shots, you are likely to see them using some sort of light modifiers.... reflectors to "bounce" more light onto a subject, fill flash to open up shadows, flags to block light, diffusers to reduce contrast and more. Monte Zucker was a master portrait photographer who specialized in available light (no flash) and made use of what he found on location and modifiers such as these... even invented a few of them. These are tools that you might use, or you can learn to look for similarly "ideal" lighting that's naturally occuring and will give you the effects you want. For example, if shooting close-ups and macro shots of flowers, insects and such, I often look for light shade to work in... or pray for a moderately overcast day (all too rare here in Calif.). Same can be done with portraits and many other types of photography.
To get great color in your images, you should get set up for and learn to do a Custom White Balance. This will insure optimal color in a wide variety of situations. Auto White Balance is very usable, especially in full sun. However, shade or indoors/artificial lighting comes in a wide spectrum of colors and can challenge AWB, or you might prefer it be rendered differently than the auto mode will do. There are a bunch of "preset" White Balance you might use - flash, tungsten, shade, etc. - but setting a Custom WB can very often give more accurate results. There are WB targets (usually white or neutral gray) that can be used to quickly set up a Custom WB simply by taking a test shot and telling the camera "this is what you should use" to set WB. There are even "warm cards", which are lightly tinted to cause slight bias toward a little warmer looking image, or in some cases cooler.
Shooting digitally, a lot of what you want to do can be, or might would even be better accomplished in post-processing..., i.e. at your computer at home. Today with digital photography we all are essentially our own "photo labs", too. More to learn, I'm afraid. There are various image editing and optimization softwares, as well as very helpful things like graphics quality computer monitors and calibration devices. It's hard to take your images to their "best" without some additional "development" at your computer. Shoot RAW for the maximum ability to make adjusments to your images in post-processing. This includes the ability to change White Balance quite freely. But a RAW file is sort of like a negative from the days of film... taking the shot is just the first step, the post-processing is necessary and an important part of creating the final image. (Note: Shooting RAW + JPEG is a good learning tool.... once you can make finished images from your RAW files that are better than JPEGs it's producing itself, you can stop shooting JPEGs at all.)
Sorry, but you aren't going to be able to do this "without a lot of thinking"
However, over time you will find that working with your camera and lenses... as well as everything else that's part of the process... becomes easier and eventually a lot of it will be second-nature. You'll need to do a lot of practice and study at first... and may feel overwhelmed at times. But gradually and eventually you'll realize that you know exactly what to do to get the images you want in many different situations. Don't be too quick to change or add more gear, because that just means starting some of the learning process over again.
With respect to wildlife photography, yes a 300mm lens on a 6D may not be enough reach a lot of the time. You have several possible solutions: get a longer focal length lens (Canon 400/5.6L is reasonably priced and quite good, but lacks IS so plan on using a tripod or at least a monopod... Canon 500/4L IS is fantastic, but pretty expensive and quite large... think "tripod only").... Or, get a crop sensor camera (70D for example) to complement your full frame camera. The 300mm will "act like" a longer focal length, when used on a crop sensor camera.
Be warned, though, small wildlife, birds and such, there is no such thing as a "long enough" telephoto. If you have 300mm, you'll want 400mm.... But once you get that 400mm, you'll want a 500mm, etc., etc. Eventually the lenses get very pricey and large, hard to hold steady and even shooting through a lot of atmosphere will reduce image quality. So other solutions you'll probably want to learn inlude stalking skills, use of blinds, calls, decoys, baits to bring subjects closer.
A lot of patience is needed too. There are times the subject is just too far away and all you can do is sit back and enjoy the show, hoping they'll come closer. Sometimes I've spent weeks or even months acclimating animals to allow me to approach close enough to get the shots I want (Canon EF 135/2L lens on Canon 7D)...
Other times I've found locations where the critters are already relatively accustomed to people and will let me get close (EF 300/4 IS USM lens on 7D)...
Hunger sometimes outweighs shyness and fear, too (EF 300/4L IS USM on 7D)...
While some wildlife could care less about you and may even give you repeated opportunities to get a good shot of them (EF 300/4L IS USM lens on 5D MkII)...
Hope this helps!
Alan Myers
San Jose, Calif., USA
"Walk softly and carry a big lens."
GEAR: 5DII, 7D(x2), 50D(x3), some other cameras, various lenses & accessories
FLICKR & PRINTROOM

I have slow internet speed and having issue with download of photoshop cc is there an alternate I can go somewhere with high speed to download.

I have slow internet speed and having issue with download of photoshop cc is there an alternate I can go somewhere with high speed to download. without using this creative cloud that downloads first.

We need to know more about your system, please download EtreCheck and run the report and please post it on your next reply. Then we can see how your system is configured, what apps are on it and look for anything obvious. We will look forward to seeing your report.

New Display coming out with a higher contrast ratio & response time?

Is there a New 30" or better Display coming out with a higher contrast ratio & response time?
I'm very used to using crt monitors and the quality of the current 30inch is nice but blacks are not quite as black and colors are not as rich.
Apple seems to be right on with what they have. Just hoping for an update to their displays soon.
Thanks ahead for your reply.
-Line

Apple reseller in Sydney today said that new Apple HD displays are 6- 8 weeks away and that Apple is running down stocks of the existing displays.
No idea of the veracity of this claim, just what I was told.
2GHz dual G5, ATI X800 XT, 2 X 500Gb HD, LaCie D2 1Tb, 3.5Gb RAM , 23" HD Panel Mac OS X (10.4.9)

How can I use the Windows 7 high contrast theme with CS6?

I prefer using a high contrast theme in Windows, as I find it reduces eye strain, unfortunately these themes don't work in InDesign CS6 (i've tested Illustrator, Dreamweaver and PS and they seem to handle the high contrast theme ok, but this forum doesn't quite like it either, but that could just be because I'm forced to use IE at work here)
Any text within dialogue boxes is black, and the toolbars and windows are pretty much unusable too.
Is there any way around this issue?

I see the same thing using a High Contrast theme. I think you're in uncharted territory here as far as what's been discussed previously on the forum, but maybe one of our other users also is a high contrast aficianado and has figured something out.

T510 DISPLAY Issue: Intermittent high Contrast/Brightness

Hi folks - This is my first Lenovo forum submission and I will do my best to describe the problem with my laptops' video/display. I'm all ears for your suggestions.
*Issue*
The display would occassionally dip down in brightness/contrast then change up to a very HIGH contrast level on its own. The desktop icons, background image & browser images become un-sightly bright BEYOND your normal Lenovo Power Manager settings. All the white hues turn even brighter, and some hues are NOT viewable at all on certain backdrops. Usually, it resolves itself after several minutes.Then it's business as usual.
I do not believe it has anything to do with the Power Manager settings (e.g. Idle Time, brightness control, Battery vs AC power, etc.). It simply occurs on it's own then disappears. A reboot can help and so does closing the lid and re-logging into Windows. But who wants to practice that technique after paying over $1600 for a professional grade business laptop?
I found only ONE forum message that came close to reporting the problem, found in the body of a message and NOT as a subject (SEARCH: "screen image fades as if you lose contrast")
Frequency ? - Atleast 4 times a month for the past 3-4 months since my purchase in summer 2010.
OS: Windows 7 (64 bit)
CPU: i5-540M 2.53GHZ
RAM: 4 GB
Laptop model: T-510
Laptop Product ID: 4313CTO
Graphics: 15.6 HD+
Battery: 6-cell
Purchase date: summer 2010
Solved!
Go to Solution.

http://forums.lenovo.com/t5/T400-T500-and-newer-T-series/T410-Screen-flickering-randomly-screen-cont...
W520: i7-2720QM, Q2000M at 1080/688/1376, 21GB RAM, 500GB + 750GB HDD, FHD screen
X61T: L7500, 3GB RAM, 500GB HDD, XGA screen, Ultrabase
Y3P: 5Y70, 8GB RAM, 256GB SSD, QHD+ screen

High Contrast Controls?

In 'settings' what does changing 'High Contrast Controls' do?

High Contrast Controls affect how controls in the Photoshop Express camera look. With it enabled, you should see bolder icons when the in camera mode. For example, the zoom slider, flash selector, etc.will look more prominent when viewed against the background of the live camera image. This feature is off by default.
Hope that helps...

Looking for a high-contrast extension for Safari for Windows

First of all,what do we call them - extensions or plugins?
Is there an extension for Safari for Windows for high-contrast? I can't find one anywhere. Windows 7 is set to a HC theme. IE just follows suit. Chrome detected this, ad offered to install a theme.
Don't know why, but I still prefer Safari on my Win7 system. But really need HC. One that just inverts the colors would work, but one with several other options like the Chrome extension would be better.
A Link! A Link! My kingdom for a Link!

Apple has dropped support for Safari on Windows

IPhone 4 OS 7.1.2 (11D257) display normal when switching on, turns to very high contrast primary colours only, no tonal graduation. Wifi no longer works.

iPhone 4 OS 7.1.2 (11D257) display normal when switching on, turns to very high contrast with bright primary colours only, no tonal graduation.Initially problem arose every time I switched the Camera on, but has worsened such that any application can cause it. In Camera, after a short time screen goes black. Also, Wifi no longer works.

You're welcome
In case you don't want to buy a new iPhone, Apple will replace the whole unit if you are willing to pay the service fee of 149$ for the iPhone4.
Out-of-warranty repair service
If your repair isn’t covered by Apple’s One Year Limited Warranty, AppleCare+, or AppleCare Protection Plan, your iPhone might be eligible for out-of-warranty service. For example, liquid damage isn’t covered by warranty but might be eligible for out-of-warranty service. Some damage isn’t eligible at all, for example if your device has been broken into multiple pieces. See Apple’s Repair Terms and Conditions for complete details.
Read Apple’s Repair Terms and Conditions
Model
Out-of-warranty service fee
Battery service*
iPhone 6 Plus
$329
$79
*available only if battery
fails Apple’s diagnostic test
iPhone 6
$299
iPhone 5s, iPhone 5c, iPhone 5
$269
iPhone 4s
$199
iPhone 4, iPhone 3GS, iPhone 3G,
Original iPhone
$149
Plus a $6.95 shipping fee, if required. Fees are in USD and exclude local tax. Pricing is for service through Apple. The final service fee we charge will be determined during testing and may be less than the service fee listed above. Pricing and terms vary for service through an Apple Authorized Service Provider.
copied from Service Answer Center - iPhone

How can I change IOS7 to be higher contrast and bolder?

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Firefox option "Allow Website to choose their own font/color" fails in High Contrast

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Regardless of the Windows Theme, Firefox should allow pages to use their designed colors otherwise problems will exist on a number of sites. Including the Mozilla.org page.
With the Allow Pages... turned on, it should look like this:
http://yosemitelandscapes.com/temp/correct.jpg
Instead the Windows High Contrast is forced upon the web site:
http://yosemitelandscapes.com/temp/incorrect.jpg
For reference Chrome does this correctly which has forced me to switch to the Chrome Browser until a fix is issued for this problem.
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I have tried "reverse logic" and turned these options on and off to see if the behavior changed. Pages refreshed and even closed and reloaded. I can find no way to work in High Contrast Themes and allow pages to show up normally in Firefox 32.
I much prefer the security and design of Firefox. Help us please!!!

That's a painful example. I don't have access to Windows 8/8.1 myself, but I suspect this is by design, as I have seen other screenshots from users using high contrast dark themes that did not have background colors and images.
Firefox 32 contains a change from this bug: [https://bugzilla.mozilla.org/show_bug.cgi?id=1042625 Bug 1042625 - Page should be drawn in accordance with the high contrast themes]. The testing (and a comment in the patch) refers to solving a problem on Windows 7, but apparently Windows 8 also was affected.
I don't know whether there is a workaround to tweak what is and isn't displayed in the page with a high contrast theme.

Photoshop - Fade is onion ringed with high contrast? - No true fade possible?

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