Photosmart 8750 - Which to use when printing - sRGB or Adobe RGB?

I've been printing with the 8750 and previously with the B8350, and have always sent my images to the printer as TIF files in Adobe RGB. I use conventional softproofing technique in Photoshop CS4 and get minimal, but expected color shifts (if any).
But recently I dredged up some old reviews of the 8750 which say that its output closely matches sRGB. Got me thinking... with this printer, should I be converting my images to sRGB before sending to the printer? Will I get truer color with less color shift from clipping?
Chas

It depends on your needs. Adobe RGB is a wider color space so if you're going to do any work with the photo, it will give you a little more flexibility without clipping the colors. But you WILL have to convert it to sRGB before sending to a printer or publishing to the web, if you don't want issues with non-color-aware browsers (which means, pretty much any browser but Safari).
Still... Aperture makes using RAW as easy as JPEG with numerous benefits so there's little reason to shoot JPEG and use Aperture

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SRGB or Adobe RGB in camera when using Aperture?

I would appreciate any help I can get with this one:
Which color space should I use in my D300 (sRGB or Adobe RGB) if I'm using Aperture and why? I'm referring to shooting RAW. Or does color space only matter if I shoot JPEGs? Does it depend on output?
Thanks,
Jerry

It depends on your needs. Adobe RGB is a wider color space so if you're going to do any work with the photo, it will give you a little more flexibility without clipping the colors. But you WILL have to convert it to sRGB before sending to a printer or publishing to the web, if you don't want issues with non-color-aware browsers (which means, pretty much any browser but Safari).
Still... Aperture makes using RAW as easy as JPEG with numerous benefits so there's little reason to shoot JPEG and use Aperture

Book photos sRGB or Adobe RGB?

Which profile should the images for a book have?
sRGB or Adobe RGB?

I am sorry but I do not think you really understood what profiles are for. An image (be it a JPEG, TIFF or even PDF, since it DISPLAYS something) MUST have metainformation on what its color values mean independently of what device you want to display them on. Without that info a PDF output would be caothic and unforseeable, since each device would interpret it according to the device's defaults.
That metainformation, combined with the information of how a device displays color (that is, a calibrated screen or printer), makes it possible to display images in several devices as close as possible to each other and to its supposed abstract colors (real colors, independent of device). If there is no metainformation (a profile) on what those RGB or CMYK values mean independently of any device, you are simply subject to the color shifting that any device is naturally subject to cause when not instructed on how to correct it. I.e. if a pixel in your image is a neutral gray -not color tinted- and you display it on a screen that shifts to red, you can still make it show a neutral gray if the color engine of your software shifts the image to the opposite color before displaying it. The software accomplishes that by combining the device profile you created when calibrating the device -or at least, by associating it to a default profile intended for that device- and the profile of the image. This is an oversimplification, since profiles in images deal with quite more than just color shifting.
PDF's are intended to be portable (hence, what the P in PDF stands for) and, then, must have a way of guaranteeing that color is reproduced as faithfully as the displaying device allows to. PDFs without information on profiles would be useless to their aim without this metainformation.
So PDFs DO STORE profile information.
The only catch up on this is that PDFs can contain several images, so in fact PDFs do not embed a single profile to govern all images inside it, but one profile for each embedded image.
Quoting you, then, those embedded profiles are what make the point of the PDF - " a self contained freely readable document in its own format" *that displays the same colors in all devices* (* = as close as the device is able to, as long as the device is calibrated, and as long as the device's software also is profile-aware; which can apply pretty much to any computer).
Answering the question of the first poster, I'd go for sRGB, since that is the color gamut most cameras are calibrated for. While AdobeRGB is wider, you will probably not be getting a wider color gamut since your camera did not capture it in the first place. Besides, not all printing services have a decent color workflow, and some will ignore the profiles you embedded (which is catastrophic since that means they will interpret the color values in your photos according to another supposed profile -because by definition, always that there is an interpretation of color values into an output, a theoretical profile is being used even if not aware of that, since that is what a profile does: turn abstract -digital- color values into real colors). And since sRGB is quite more used than AdobeRGB, their device will most probably output closer to the former. AdobeRGB images interpreted in an sRGB color space become dramatically desaturated.
I hope that helps. If you need me to be more explicit on something, just ask.

SRGB vs Adobe RGB

What the heck is the difference between sRGB vs Adobe RGB?
Do I have to reset this in my camera too?
I have a Canon 5D Mark 11
Thanks, Penni

The »s« in srgb supposedly stands for »standard« (though »small« or »s..t« have also been mentioned) and this color-space is so small as to be representable without clipping on most monitors, so it’s recommended to be used for internet-work.
AdobeRGB on the other hand is much larger and intended for professional image-editing.
If You wonder what small and large mean in this context just create an rgb-document with a Spectrum-gradient and assign (not convert) different profiles to it and see how the appearance of pixels of any given rgb-value change.
Or compare the two profiles in ColorSync Utility (in the Utilities-folder).
Of course working in the larger space can cause problems when an image has to be output in a smaller space (as many/most offset printing spaces are), but soft-proofing can help recognize them in time.
Anyway reading up on color management should do You no harm.
It would seem advisable to shoot RAW-images if Your camera offers that option.

Color profile (sRGB Vs. Adobe RGB)

Hello,
As I am struggling with choosing the 'right' color profile for my photo's (either sRGB or Adobe RGB) I was wondering what your opinion of this subject is. I have searched the internet for the information about this subject, but the forums/answers/information couldn't give me enough satisfaction.
For editing photo's I am using Adobe Photoshop, for my library I use iPhoto. Some photo's are uploaded to sites as www.facebook.com. Sometimes I order a photo book via iPhoto.
Because there are pros and cons for both sRGB and Adobe RGB I am not sure which profile I have to choose. I would like to choose one format, since this will standardize my library.
Looking forward to your opinion.
Best Regards,
Jelle

Larry & Terence,
Did you do any on-screen testing or proofing? All modern browsers support ICC profiles and should show improvement with Adobe RGB in certain color ranges (NOT just Facebook).
Apple products aren't "designed" for sRGB. sRGB is a standard developed by Hewlett Packard and Microsoft (and I think we all can agree those aren't Apples best friends). sRGB is the default for most Cameras and SmartPhones, that doesn't mean it's the best.
Most monitors sold in the last 5 years have wider gamut support than the sRGB.
Article "Can the entire sRGB color gamut be displayed on today's LCD monitors?"
http://ninedegreesbelow.com/photography/srgb-bad-working-space-profile.html
"sRGB was created to match the display characteristics of consumer-grade CRT monitors manufactured in the1990s." "LCDs use a completely different technology to make colors..." "All wide gamut monitors by definition can show more greens, yellows, and cyans than sRGB."
Apple even suggests "Adobe RGB offers a wider gamut than sRGB, and is usually a better choice, if available." in this article:
http://support.apple.com/kb/ht2026
iPhoto 6 and newer have support for ColorSync profiles, older versions may not work with Adobe RGB and could cause the color to look worse. If a profile isn't present, or isn't supported iPhoto assigns Camera RGB. Complaints about "dark" color from iPhoto are more than 5 years old.

Converting RGB images (sRGB or Adobe RGB) to 709 color space.

I'm trying to determine the correct way to convert RGB images (sRGB or Adobe RGB) to 709 color space. I can't just use the "covert to profile" function to do this because it does not produce results that fall within the 16 to 235 range that 709 dictates. I've read that you can simply use the "Levels" adjustment and change the output levels to 16 to 235. While this would clearly compress the luminance to the correct range, I'm not entirely clear if the end result would be a proper conversion (i.e. if color and gamma, for example, would be technically correct.)
I noticed that converting the profile to "HDTV (Rec. 709)" does alter the image, so I'm wondering what the result would be if I did both this AND used the levels control to compress the output range to 16 to 235.
Thanks for any feedback on this.

(1)
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Rec._709
(2)
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Rec._601
The transfer functions for Rec.709 (1) refer to the range [0..1] or for 8 bits per pixel [0...255].
It seems that the clipping, black=16 and white=235 has to happen after the application of the
transfer function. If this should be true, then we don't have a level compression but a level
clipping at both ends, as already for Rec.601 (2), like here:
The ICC-Profile HDTV(Rec.709) in Photoshop contains the primaries and the white point
(both like that in sRGB) and the transfer functions for [0..1], coded by a LUT with high resolution,
as found by Profile Inspector. There is no clipping.
By the way, that`s the internal profile name, I don't know the file name of the profile.
Softproofing, source in sRGB, target HDTV(Rec.709), without clipping:
With numbers not preserved: no change of the appearance, as expected.
With numbers preserved: shows the effect of different effective gammas.
Your questions are very clear and I'm not sure whether my comments help. The information
in the internet is not convincing.
Best regards --Gernot Hoffmann

SRGB or Adobe RGB

What do I have to choose on my camera Canon D400
sRGB or Adobe RGB
And after I made that choice do I have to choose those setting in Bridge and PS CS5 too?

sRGB is the safest bet (Adobe RGB has a bit more color gamut if you know what you are doing)
if you shoot RAW (16 bit recommended) for highest quality, the camera capture space doesn't matter
i recommend these Adobe Color Settings mostly for the color management policies that warn you of profile mismatches and preserve embedded profiles (set the working spaces as you like)...

Whats The Best Resolution To Use When Printing Excellent Quality Photos?

Hi all
My grandparents have given me quite a big task to do as they want me to edit, save on to disc or discs and print there old family photos, I am going to edit the photos from Photoshop CS3 Extended at the highest possible Resolution so the photos look amazing when printed from a normal printer or at a proper photo lab. What is the highest possible resolution I could use on the photos without making them look all pixelated (or what ever it looks like) when printed? I was told by a friend that 300 pixels/inch would yield better but is it possible I could go higher? they are family photos so I would like them to look as amazing as possible for the next generation which will be me, my cousins and our future families.
Many Thanks for reading this and Many Thanks to the people who will reply to it. Very much appreciated.
Kind regards,
Oliver

Hi ID. Awe
Thank you for the resolution pixel/inch number but I will use 300ppi on Photoshop CS3 Extended because it seems popular on here and my friend did say 300 pixels/inch would yield better, okay so I should not go over board blimey as I wont be able to control how it is down-sampled for output, I had better be careful then. My scanners resolution is 4800 dpi optical and up to 19,200 dpi enhanced and the colour is: 48-bit and 8-bit greyscale but when I look in the scanner settings it only goes up to 24 bit colour hmmm? How do I down-sample to 8-bit for output? Do I use Photoshop for that? As my printer will not allow me to down-sample the 8-bit colour. I just want the photos to look amazing thats all.
Hi John Joslin
If you ask you shall receive, I will be getting my photos printed at Kodak or at the Devon Camera Centre. I do have a inkjet printer it is the HP Photosmart 2610 all-in-one= printer, fax, scanner, copier. Thank you for the warning John it is nice to know if I was to use my inkjet printer but I am going to have my photos developed at a photo lab so the photos will last allot longer. My printer resolution is 1200 and up to 4800 dpi optimised.
Hi Donald Reese
The highest resolution my scanner can go up to is 19,200 dpi, could you explain to me what interpolation is please? is it another selection I can select within the scanner settings? That does sound logical to have extra data to downsize from, instead of trying to upsize from a low resolution scan because I suppose it would make the photo look a bit pixelated.
Hi Gernot Hoffmann
That is interesting that by using 300ppi or 288ppi which is good for an accurate pixel preview by zoom=400% and this is OK for the reproduction of photos by high quality offset printing and for large format inkjets and for inkjet proof printing thank you. Thank you for the simplified version:-D
Hi Ed Grenzig
I did think that scanning is more important but I did not know how high I should go with the resolution on that either, thats true that the scans can be no better than the picture that I am scanning. Yeah I suppose it also is trial and error using different settings. Extra pixels won't make your picture any sharper than the print. That is what they said about the freeview box until they found out that it made the picture clear as it had a higher resolution then the tv itself but I will give it ago.
Yeah good idea I will experiment myself on similar photos to see if increasing the resolution helps and how much it helps, depending on the type of photo. Yes I definitely will keep my original scans because as you said I can always go back and re-edit them in the future. I agree all editing software will get better as time goes on and they will probably laugh at my edits when they look at the capability of their future software. True that my present printed photos will not last forever as they will deteriorate. As johntolliday below said he usually scans his photos at 600 ppi and I will probably do the same or higher if needs be. Thanks for the great tips, I did think could I use my camera to take photos of the original photos if they are to big for my scanner and of course I can like you said, I would not shot the photos though as I do not want holes in the photo lol.
Hi johntolliday
Yeah I will be getting the photos professionally printed at a photo lab as you said Unless you are using they will not last as long as a print printed on photo paper by the very expensive photo lab machines and I do not have archive quality inks or paper and anyway they are to expensive. Cool that you do most of your prints and enlargements online and have been very pleased with the results. I also thought that inkjet printers are not really up to the job when it comes down to printing excellent quality photos.
I will try your suggestion and scan my photos at 600 ppi or more depending on the picture quality, I do not seem to have a selection for 16 bit colour on my scanner settings I only have Millions of colours (24-bit), 256 colours
(8-bit), 256 colour web palette, 256 colour system palette, 256 grey shades (8-bit greyscale) and Black & White
(1-bit) so I guess I will have to stick with 24 bit colour. Sounds like a good idea to down sample to 300 on Photoshop and print from there. I have never enlarged photos before but there might be a time when I might need to.
A huge thank you to everyone who has posted on here you all have helped me out allot and I know where I am going now before I have to say I was going around blindfolded, if you have any more tips about scanning or even printing please feel free to post. Thank You again.
Kind Regards, Oliver

HP Photosmart 7200 Colors are Wrong When Printing on Photo Paper

I'm running Windows 7 and am having a problem when printing on photo paper. The colors are off; mainly green. The colors are fine when printing on plain paper. I have tried printing from my computer as well as straight from the media card. Same result. I am also using HP Photo Premium glossy paper. Print cartridges are brand new and are loaded correctly.
Any solutions or troubleshooting tips I can try?

Hi @Vay725,
Welcome to the HP Forums!
I understand that the colors are wrong when printing on photo paper! I am happy to help you with this print quality issue!
For further assistance, I will need to know some more information:
The Product/Model Number of your printer. Follow instructions in this link. Finding Your HP Product Model Number.
If you are using a Windows or Mac Operating System, and the version number. To find the exact version, visit this link. Whatsmyos.
If the printer is connected, Wireless, or USB.
If the printer is able to make copies.
If the power cable is plugged into a surge protector, or directly to the wall outlet. Issues when Connected to an Uninterruptible Power Supply/Power Strip/Surge Protector. This applies to Inkjet printers as well.
If you are using Genuine HP Ink cartridges.
Thank you for posting, and have a nice day!
RnRMusicMan
I work on behalf of HP
Please click “Accept as Solution ” if you feel my post solved your issue, it will help others find the solution.
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Colours wrong when RAW file with Adobe RGB profile printed from iPhoto '08

I've taken some photos on my Nikon D300 with the colourspace set to Adobe RGB. These import and display fine in iPhoto '08 but when printed it looks like the printer (Epson R2400 with the Epson 6.12 driver) is using the sRGB colourspace. The only option I can find relating to colour, is the Color matching dialogue which gives the option of Colorsync or Epson Color Controls. I've tried both with the same results. Preview shows the profile of the .nef file to be Adobe RGB (1998).
Has anyone any ideas of what I need to change?

AndyMn:
Welcome to the Apple Discussions. Most inkjet printers are geared for the sRGB profile. The Adobe profile is used by professional printers. Apple's services also recommend the sRGB profile. You need to reassign the sRGB or sRGBIEC1966-2.1 profile. I'm not sure about the raw file but you can use the ColorSync Utility to assign that profile to the file.
I have an Applescript that will apply the profile to files or folder of files dropped on it. I'm not sure if it will work on RAW files but it does on jpgs and tiffs. You can download it from Toad's Cellar. It takes about 6 seconds per file but does not apply any additional jpeg compression to jpg files.
Assigning the profile is considered better than the Applescript way but can only be done one at a time. You can test each method and see what gives you the best results.
TIP: For insurance against the iPhoto database corruption that many users have experienced I recommend making a backup copy of the Library6.iPhoto (iPhoto.Library for iPhoto 5 and earlier) database file and keep it current. If problems crop up where iPhoto suddenly can't see any photos or thinks there are no photos in the library, replacing the working Library6.iPhoto file with the backup will often get the library back. By keeping it current I mean backup after each import and/or any serious editing or work on books, slideshows, calendars, cards, etc. That insures that if a problem pops up and you do need to replace the database file, you'll retain all those efforts. It doesn't take long to make the backup and it's good insurance.
I've created an Automator workflow application (requires Tiger or later), iPhoto dB File Backup, that will copy the selected Library6.iPhoto file from your iPhoto Library folder to the Pictures folder, replacing any previous version of it. It's compatible with iPhoto 6 and 7 libraries and Tiger and Leopard. iPhoto does not have to be closed to run the application, just idle. You can download it at Toad's Cellar. Be sure to read the Read Me pdf file.≤br>
Note: There now an Automator backup application for iPhoto 5 that will work with Tiger or Leopard.

Color cartridges used when printing black only

Hi HP
We have had a 6600 printer for about 13 months.
The color cartridges are used up when only printing black only
Recently we replaced all three colors cartridges - week before thanksgiving - 2014 and the cayan and yellow
cartridges are totally empty - the black cartridge is full and the printer does not let us print.
we did not print in color at all.
what can be done?
Please advise
Thanks
Steve

Hello SteveKowaliw,
Welcome to the HP Forums.
I see that you have some concerns about the colour ink cartridge usage.
I am going to give you a document that will assist when you Cannot Print When One of the HP Ink Cartridges is Empty.
I am also going to point out one section of the document so you have a better understanding on how the printer works.
"The printers listed in this document cannot print when an ink cartridge is empty even though the other ink cartridges have ink.
Your printer is designed to print only when all ink cartridges have ink. A little ink from all the ink cartridges is used in periodic servicing tasks. This helps to prevent issues such as printhead clogs and poor print quality. There is no way to bypass this feature".
Thank you for your time.
Cheers,
Click the “Kudos Thumbs Up" at the bottom of this post to say “Thanks” for helping!
Please click “Accept as Solution ” if you feel my post solved your issue, it will help others find the solution.
W a t e r b o y 71
I work on behalf of HP

Can no longer print wireless with PHotosmart Premium 410C. Used to print wirelessly no longer.

Print out from printer button says it is all connect with network named, IP address etc. I also cannot print from my cell phone via email any longer. Any ideas Set up with Windows Vista.

Run the print and scan doctor and check the results.
http://h10025.www1.hp.com/ewfrf/wc/document?cc=us&lc=en&dlc=en&docname=c03286146
Have you uninstall and re-install the software and drivers, yet?
**Click the KUDOS star on the left to say 'Thanks'**
Please mark a reply "ACCEPTED AS SOLUTION" if it solved your problem, so others can find it.

Why does photosmart c6180 all in one when printing of faxing produces a black line down center of pa

everytime i sent a fax ormake a copy or print, I get a black line straight down the center of page

Hi there 1225,
This article covers the problem with black lines you are having. Give the steps outlined a shot and let us know if it helps.
Best of Luck!
You can say thanks by clicking the Kudos Star in my post. If my post resolves your problem, please mark it as Accepted Solution so others can benefit too.

Avoiding the 'Save PDF File As' dialog when printing to the adobe PDF printer from a service

Hello, can someone please help.
I have Adobe Acrobat 8 Pro installed.
I have an in house application which (among many other things) effectively monitors a directory and prints the file to the default printer. It works fine when run as an application.
I have set the defaults on the Adobe PDF printer to put the output PDF file into a directory and not to open it so it works silently without prompts.
When I run my application as a service, it brings up the 'Save PDF File As' dialog and I would like to avoid this. My impression is that if I put the right registry key in then it will work.
I do not want to do any scripting if I can avoid it.
Thanks for all constructive help given.

Thank for your help Bill, but changing settings in the distiller did not seem to work. As my application prints directly to the default application without using anything specific to Acrobat, I was hoping there was a simple way forward. A colleague suggested copying registry entries from the account I logged on as to the S-1-5-18 entry, then rebooting. This had no effect as the prompt still comes up.
Aandi, I don't have the Acrobat SDK or any experience of it.
Also I'm not sure where any code/script would sit since the application is stable and so I would rather not change it.
If it amounts to a few lines of javascript sitting outside the application then that would be of interest.

Acrobat Pro XI goes to trial mode and signing in fails when printing (in not Adobe programme)

I'm from Finland and when I joined Creative Cloud, I soon found out that Creative Cloud signing in doesn't work in Finnish even though it is possible to install some programmes in Finnish. So I uninstalled everything and installed all the programmes that I am using in English (International). No problem with that.
So I have also installed my Acrobat Pro XI in English and printing / exporting pdfs works fine as long as I am working within Adobe programmes (e.g. InDesign, PhotoShop, Illustrator). The programmes sometimes ask me to sign in but it works fine in English.
However, when I am trying to print or convert content in pdfs via webbrowsers or MS Office programmes (I have them in Finnish), I get a "Adobe Acrobat XI trial mode expired" window in Finnish and I am asked to sign in. When I try to sign in (via "Finnish window" which I cannot change in English at this phase), signing in (= Creative Cloud activation) fails, and the programme asks me to give the registration number. And that I don't have as I am using the programme via Creative Cloud!
I have uninstalled Acrobat Pro XI and installed it again and it did not have any effect.
Do you have any solution to this problem? It is very frustrating that printing pdfs succeeds in Adobe programmes only, it shouldn't work like that. (I am using Adobe programmes (installed locally "from the packadge", not via Createve Cloud) at work and printing pdfs works fine there.

Thank you for your reply. I tried this, unfortunately it didn't solve my problem.
I found the correct keys from "HKEY_LOCAL_MACHINE" etc., however, I didn't find the subkey "current" below "Language". I had "UseMUI" and "next" instead. First I tried setting the default UseMUI value to "acrobat.dll". No effect, the same problem came when I tried to print a pdf file using MS Word programme. Then I erased "UseMUI" and created "current" instead and set the default value to "acrobat.dll". No effect but no harm either, it seems.
My operating system is Windows 7 Professional and the language is Finnish. The Microsoft Office programmes that I am using are also Finnish versions. So I do understand that this problems is rooted in the language settings, however, I have no idea how to solve this... I won't change my operating systems in the near future, and I would like to keep on using the Finnish versions of Office programmes...
Is there any other HKEY settings that should perhaps be changed in order to get rid of this problem? Acrobat Distiller settings perhaps? Adobe PDF Maker settings?

Photosmart 8750 - Which to use when printing - sRGB or Adobe RGB?

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