Picolit Power Supply Unit

I have the following PSU in my Envy 750xt: IPS,ATX,Picolit,500W,EStarBronze,5Vsb/4A - 746177-002
My question is will this PSU work with an uninterruptable power supply that outputs a stepped sine wave (only when on battery power)? I am also curious if this PSU uses Active PFC.
Thank you.

The P/S requirements are overstated.
The card draws a max of 29 Watts and is a favorite to install in the HP business desktops with the 240 W P/S.
It is also the optional graphics card on the HP Elite 8200 SFF with the 240 W P/S.
You can see this thread for more info.
http://h30434.www3.hp.com/t5/Desktop-Hardware/DC7800-Memory-Compatibility/m-p/2547399/highlight/true...
http://h30434.www3.hp.com/t5/Desktop-Hardware/graphics-card-for-HP-Compaq-dc7800/m-p/1228843/highlig...
There are many other threads like the above two.

Similar Messages

Can I install a G3 Blue & White power supply unit in a G4 AGP?

I have a G3 and a G4. The G4s power supply unit (PSU) short circuited a while back and I got a G3 as a replacement. I've tried to find a replacement power supply unit for the G4 and have been using the G3 in its place. Sometimes they appear on ebay but I usually lose the auction. But the G3 has upgrade issues that involve spending money on it. It's a Blue and White 300 MHz Yosemite while the G4 is the Graphite AGP 400MHz Sawtooth. RAM isn't an issue, processing speed is, the G3 is harder to upgrade. Plus I can put up to 3 hard drives in the G4. 2 ATAs and a SCSI. the G3 only holds 1 ATA hard drive. With 2 SCSI bays.
Anyway I'm leaning towrds retiring the G3 and rebuilding the G4 starting with the PSU. And I've seen on auction sites that these units are compatible with both Macs, the Blue and White G3 and the AGP and PCI G4. It is essentially the same 240 watt unit made by Delta Electronics or ATX..
However as I spent part of the yesterday dismantleing and cleaning dust out the Sawtooth's innards, and removing the broken PSU, I also noticed on the G3 that the PSUs cables are slightly different. There is one cable that is connected to the start button. On the G4 this isn't the set up. The start button's cable is linked directly to the motherboard.
To get to the point. Is this cable arrangement a potential problem that I should avoid by not tinkering with it? Or can I ignore this and install the G3 PSU in my G4? I'm preceding with caution and will check back here later in the day.
Thanks.
G3 B&W 300MHz 6GB 512MB + iMac G3 400MHz 10GB 320MB Mac OS X (10.3.9)

Thanks, Grant
Interesting opinion.. and funny too.
On close inpsection of the fron panel you're right the cable is a hard drive cable, and without a number. Whereas the connector for the DVD and Zip drive are numbered P7 and P6.
And in the G4 there is a slot for where this old connector went, but there's nothing to connect, no pins. It's as if this slot was evolutionary rump on its spine end where the tail ended, that the G4 designers left in or else they used left over parts from the G3 to save money.. This early G4, introduced in 1999-2000 is one evolutionary step above the G3 which was discontinued in early 1999. The G4 front panel has a slim grey ribbon cable leading under the chassis directly to the motherboard, along witha thin wire and small pin connector leading from the speaker.
There's nothing like a beakdown to learn how to rebuild your PowerMac. And I think most of the repairs are DIY doable. It just takes a few good screwdrivers, a little know how, some patience and a lot of spare time. All that and the correct replacement parts, if you can find them.
So I've finished installing the G3 PSU in the G4. It fits perfectly in and amazingly all the cables were long enough, including the cable to the ATA hard drive bay P2 and P3. Hard drive is connected, RAM installed, ready to go. All I have to do is plug the power cable into a power strip socket and hope for the familiar whirr and chime and breatha sigh of relief. If nothing happens then it prolly means the motherboard is kaputt. Or that it isn't compatible with the G4 architecture and it's back in the G3. I'll let the board know what's happened tomorrow. I'm off to Slumberland. ZZZZZzzzzz. rob
G3 B&W 300MHz 6GB 512MB + iMac G3 400MHz 10GB 320MB Mac OS X (10.3.9)

Is it possible to change Power Supply unit for Lenovo H420 PC ?

I have 2 questions really as i recently bought this budget system.....I was amazed to see that the PSU was only 280 watts for this systemwhich kind of limits what Graphics card I can upgrade to.
My questions are :
1) is it possible to upgrade the Power Supply unit for the H420 from the default 280 W to say to a 400 W one?
2) If I cannot upgrade the PSU, what is the best performing Graphics Card that I can use in this system? It was pre-installed with a NVIDEA GeForce GT 520, which isn't the best around.
My 6 yr old Dell Dimension 8400 system with Win XP, which i have discarded allowed me to insert NVIDEA GeForce GT 240 card, which i think is a slightly superior card to the above one. Needed a 300 W PSU

Hi RBec and welcome to the community,
Is this your thread over there? If not, it gives a few options concerning the PSU.
Dave
T430u, x301, x200T, x61T, x61, x32, x41T, x40, U160, ThinkPad Tablet 1838-22R, Z500 touch, Yoga Tab 2 Windows 8.1, Yoga Tablet 3 Pro
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Power Supply Unit for a PSC 1205?

Dear HP! Is it possible to buy a new or repaired power supply unit for my PSC 1205? Part no. Q1647-60019. Best regards Lars

It doesn't seem like this part is available in the HP Parts Store. I suggest you check one of THESE HP Part Partners in the US if they have this part.
PS: This forum is not an official way of contacting HP.
Make it easier for other people to find solutions, by marking my answer with \'Accept as Solution\' if it solves your problem.
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I am an ex-HP Employee.

IPod HiFi A1121 power supply unit

Hi there,
I have an iPod HiFi A1121 and am aware it is discontinued. My power supply unit is the problem with mine, but due to the fact it seems quite complex and there are 3 different output wattages on it, it doesn't seem to be something I can just find a similar one of. Does anyone have a broken HiFi that they are prepared to part with, or does anyone know of anywhere I might be able to find a power supply unit from that would enable me to use my HiFi? It works on battery power and my friend has an adapter, that allows mains usage, but it means it will only play music to the same level as with batteries. Pleeeeeaassee could someone help me with any information? Thanks very much

Thanks!
Interesting, this "Piggy back power adapter" will allow me to plug the fan into one of the ATA/IDE cables? Or do you mean the extra port on the power supply? (it has one plug for the outlet>G4, then another to support something like a monitor or similar) The G4 has a DVD burner, but no ZIP drive, so this is quite do-able if it uses the ATA power.
When you say "lower rear", do you mean at the bottom? Below the power supply, to the right of the PCI slots? If so, this is the inflow for the CPU fan! I can understand mounting it outside the current outflow-vent for the dead power supply fan, although I'm not sure the best way to proceed with attaching the fan.
Another question: what tools and supplies will I need? I may need to remove the plastic cover on the back of the G4 - the one that is outside the power supply - as there's a gap between the gray plastic and metal chassis that lets air from outside the machine come in. The screws for this cover use a funky, hexagonal screwdriver. If I need to take this cover off, what kind of screwdriver will I need? Also, should the fan not include screws/etc, what's the best method to attach it? Glue?
Secondly, to cut a hole in the G4, will I need some variety of drill? I don't have one, so i'll have to borrow one... Since there's nothing in the ZIP slot, I can run a cable out through here (assuming it's long enough), and make a new bezel to keep the airflow inside intact.
Ah! One other (somewhat related) question: my USB 2 card includes a power adapter, for use when several un-powered devices (flash drives) are attached. It works just fine with a flash drive and a small media reader, but it's slow to sense the drives - I think it's low on power. Unfortunately, this power plug uses the same variety of plug as the floppy disk drives found on many win-boxes - of which the G4 possesses none. Is there an adapter/cable for this purpose?
Thanks, this is a HUGE help, I appreciate it.
-Dan

Installed new Power Supply unit.

For the past few months I have had the Sleep/Wake, Start-up problems wih my 1.8Ghz 20" G5 iMac, no iSight, no ALS, that so many G5 iMac owners have been experiencing, until it would not start up at all. No visibly bad caps on the logicboard but at least 4 bad caps in the Power Supply. I cleaned all the dust out of everywhere & I have finally gotten a new Power Supply unit, & installed it today, also changed the CR2032 lithium battery. I am ready to start up and I wonder what procedures should I perform to make sure I have covered all the bases to be back to normal conditions. Do I need to reset the SMU, reset the PRAM, Repair Permissions, run Apple Hardware Test on the Install Disc, etc.?
As usual, all suggestions are greatly appreciated.
Thank you,
John

hi Ralph,
Well, i started up & everything seemed to work OK, put it to sleep for about 20 minutes & woke it with the mouse, which I haven't been able to do for quite a while. I ran Apple Hardware Test from the Install Disc & everything Passed, hooray. Then I opened Disk Utility , chose "Macintosh HD" & ran Verify Permissions. A long list of "Permissions differ on ..." came up, starting with a "User differs on...".
User differs on ./Developer/Examples/WebKit/DiskCacheInspector/DiskCacheInspector.xcode/project .pbxproj, should be, owner is
Permissions differ on./Library/Application Support/Macromedia/Shockwave 10/Shockwave 10 Preferences, should be , they are
Permissions differ on ./Library/Internet Plug-Ins/Flash Player.plugin/Contents/Info.plist, should be , they are
Permissions differ on ./Library/Internet Plug-Ins/Flash Player.plugin/Contents/MacOS/Flash Player, should be , they are
Permissions differ on ./Library/Internet Plug-Ins/flashplayer.xpt, should be , they are
Permissions differ on ./Library/Preferences, should be , they are
Permissions differ on ./Library, should be , they are
Permissions differ on ./private/var/log/secure.log, should be , they are
What thet should be & what they are are a lot of r's, w's & x's. I didn't type here what it said they are or what they should be because I don't know if there might be a security risk or not. Probably concerned over nothing.
Anyway, should I Repair Permissions or are they supposed to differ.
Thanks again for your help.
John

Power Mac G4 MDD power supply unit/RAM

Hello,
I just bought a used Power Mac G4 (Mirrored Drive Doors) at a garage sale for $20. The owner said it works, but he took out the RAM, power supply unit and hard drive.
I would like to place an order for the RAM and power supply unit but I am not sure how I differentiate which power supply unit to purchase. When I try to look it up all I find it is that it had gods gift to worst ever power supply unit in the history of power supply units. It was the loudest most obnoxious fan set up or something of the sort.
Well bottom line I need to get a few replacement parts for the old G4 desktop and was hoping that some experienced mac hardware person could point me in the right direction. I am comfortable replacing parts I am just not certain what I need to purchase to install.
Does anybody know of any good 3rd party hardware that they could suggest for a replacement part?
Power Mac G4
Designed by Apple in California
Model No.: M8570 EMC No.:1914
Thank you very much :]
(I am pretty sure I posted this in the right subcategory, sorry if I did not.)
None of these model numbers match, but it everything I research says it was from this generation of G4’s. How can I 100% tell which one is the model I have?

I just finished rebuilding my MDD (FW800). As for finding specific parts for your machine, be sure you have the model number, or are able to differentiate between the models. That being said, most of the case parts are interchangeable. Problems can occur when swapping processors and failing to use the proper heat sink for that processor.
The best place (price wise versus availability) that I've found for MDD power supplies is on eBay. However, be aware that you will probably be getting it used. So either ask the seller if they will guarantee it for a specified period of time, or buy it from a seller that offers a guarantee (normally 30 days). If you get one that lasts for 30 days without any problems you've probably got a good one. Price is normally around $140 + shipping.
Another avenue is to try shopping the web (Google) for what you need. There are a number of great websites that carry what you may need, or maybe are looking for. Some of those to checkout are:
www.applecomponents.com
www.otherworldcomputing.com
xlr8yourmac.com
www.lowendmac.com
Additionally there are a number of case and power supply mods that can be done to quiet down the MDD. Apple doesn't necessarily endorse these mods, as they deal with changing power supply cooling fans, and/or the processor/case cooling fans. However, if your MDD is out of warranty, you practice safe electrical/static work practices as you're working, and you're willing to accept any negative consequences should those mods either not work properly or they happen to result in damage to other components, then do what you feel is appropriate.
As for telling exactly which model you have, and how it was originally configured when it shipped from Apple, research the serial number through this Apple website. Another way is to check the model number of the motherboard. This is located near the PCI slots, by the modem connection. It will have a number something like 820-1453-A, or 820-1500-A. Cross referencing these through Google can help tell which motherboard you have. As for the processor, you'll need to carefully remove the heartsink (5 screws) and look at the chip(s) itself. If there are two chips it's a dual processor, and if only one it's a single (Duh!). Then locate the small white sticker that's stuck to the processor card for the processor's info. It should tell you what you need to know about it. You can also look at the info inscribed on the face of each processor chip.
Important Note: Be very careful, and wear a grounding wristband at all times when when working on the inside, or handling any computer components. This is particularly true when handling the processor card, and here's why. Any static shock from you to the motherboard or to the processor could severely damage or destroy that component.
Here's another link to way of quieting the MDD.
http://www.xlr8yourmac.com/systems/g4mirrored_drive_doors/noise_reduction/g4_ddr_noisereduction.html
Anyway, I hope these help you find what you need. Be careful!!
kudzu48

Do I need to replace video graphic card or power supply unit on hp compaq presario sr2180nx

hello all
i saw a similar post over 4 years ago, however it doesn't address my issue.
my pc started stalling when i attempt to turn it on. It wouldn't come on. Then after several tries every now and then it would come on. I was told through searching that it could be the video graphic card or the power supply. Therefore once i had the computer back on. I never shut it off. However, i could reboot and it would come on.
Now it won't come on again. So i don't know what to replace. The video graphic card or the power supply. If it is the graphic card, do i replace the one previously installed or add a new one. And if adding a new one, what is recommended to be compatible with my 300 watt supply unit? I'm lost as what route to take and how.Below are the details of my unit.
HP/Compaq Presario SR2180NX desktop PC with a P5LP-LE motherboard with an Integrated graphics using Intel GMA 950.
*Integrated video is not available if a graphics card is installed.
Also supports PCI Express x16 graphics cards
300 watt supply.
thank you in advance for any help you can give me.

Is there an add-in video card in the slot? If so, remove it and try to turn on. If the problem is the video card it will turn on. If not it is the power supply.

Warranty duration for T61 power supply unit

Hi all,
we are working with Lenovo T61 laptops and they have a 3 years on-site warranty. Do you know if like batteries, power supplies unit have a limited warranty period ? Thank you
Solved!
Go to Solution.

Welcome to the forum!
Your T61's power supply is covered by warranty for its entire duration, unlike batteries which are limited to one year.
Hope this helps.
Cheers,
George
In daily use: R60F, R500F, T61, T410
Collecting dust: T60
Enjoying retirement: A31p, T42p,
Non-ThinkPads: Panasonic CF-31 & CF-52, HP 8760W
Starting Thursday, 08/14/2014 I'll be away from the forums until further notice. Please do NOT send private messages since I won't be able to read them. Thank you.

Power Supply Unit

Hello All,
I was wondering if this power supply will fit in my case: http://www.bestbuy.com/site/Corsair+-+Gaming+Series+700-Watt+ATX+CPU+Power+Supply/1073697.p?id=12182...
I have the Gateway FX 6840-03e: http://www.tigerdirect.com/include/AddCartfromGallery.asp?EdpNo=6655831&csid=ITD&Sku=S445-10108&imgc...
I also wanted to put a single ATI 6970 into it.
Thanks,
Green

Yes it will.
If you like my post, or solution to your issue/question, go ahead and click on the little star by my name and/or accept the post as the Solution. It makes me happy.
I'm NOT an employee of Best Buy, or Geek Squad, though I did work as an Agent for a year 5 years ago. None of my posts are to be taken as the official stance that Best Buy will take on your situation. My advice is just that, advice.
Unfortunately, that's the bad luck of any electronic, there's going to be bad Apples... wait that's a horrible pun.

Power supply unit for 1500+

hello,
i got another set is Athlon XP 1500+(palamino), the power supply is aopen brand, i think is 250 or 300 watt,
display card -winfast a170 (GF4 mx 420)
RAM -Kingmax 128MB PC2700(x2)
MOBO-KT3 Ultra2
HDD-40GB Maxtor DM+8(7200RPM)
CD-rom -56x Aopen CDrom
CD-RW-40/12/48 Aopen CDRW
1pcs internal modem
the power supply it is enough for use or no?????
thanks

because last time i used all the parts is same,except the the power supply,
the psu last i used is enlight 300watt (180watt combined),it spoil my hddusing some monthafter iuse gf4 mx420,so change to enlight 420watt,now this set i want give to my sister,so the aopen 25owatt psu, no sure can use for 1500+ or no???
if can't i want downgrade to 1000(100MHz)default setting,may be the power will be enough for use
thanks

External PSU (power supply unit) for Video Card

Hello guys. My 7979 6gb Radeon card arrived, but my Mac Pro only has 6-pin connections for video cards and two molex inputs, when my video card needs two 8-pin ports (or four 4-pin molex ports, 2 for each 8-pin), since I tried running the card simply using one molex for each 8-pin port (the card just turns off when I try to load a graphic intense video game, but otherwise runs) and it fails. To solve this, I am purchasing new psu tomorrow morning at best buy. 2 questions
1. Since this psu will be external and not a replacement for the Mac pro psu, do I have to connect anything from the psu to the motherboard, or do I simply plug it into the wall outlet, and then plug the video card 8-pin cables into the psu ?
2. The "requirements" on the video cards website says that I require a 500 watt CPU. But I believe this assumes a 500 watt CPU that is powering the whole computer (fans, ram, hard drives etc), so does that mean that getting a 430 watt psu will be fine since its exclusively for the video card? I read online that at max usage, the card only uses about 370 watts.
Thanks

The PCI-e bus can provide 75 watts, as can each of the two 6-pin auxiliary power connectors, so you only need a 150 watt supply. It is possible to mount it internally, below the optical drive.
<http://forums.macrumors.com/showthread.php?t=1472518>
or externally
<http://macperformanceguide.com/blog/2011/20110406_1-PowerHungryVideoCards--howto .html>

I had an abrupt powerfailure on my MAcbook. Power went of, the adapter light went of and since than nothing. Can't power up. I suspect a fasilure of the power supply unit. Some advice is welcome

Working hsppy on my macbook suddenly all power fell away. The adapter light went of and since than i have not been able to restart my macbook. I suspect a failure in the powersupply. Heard a little sound like blowing a fuse. Any suggestions?

I suggest you make an appointment at the genius bar at an Apple store and take your Macbook in for a comprehensive diagnosis. This service is free. If repairs are needed you will be given an estimate.
How to find a genius bar:
http://www.apple.com/retail/geniusbar/

Upgrade of power supply unit

hi guys looking to install a better graphics card, hard drives ect ect, the model computer i have is http://h10025.www1.hp.com/ewfrf/wc/product?cc=us&lc=en&product=4228300
as the one installed is only 350watts, i was thinking about 800 watts will be good enough, any advice or products that you know will be good much appreciated

Most would advise against any PSU greater than 650W. Additionally, physical size of the PSU is important. The depth of your existing PSU is 5.5" (140mm). When approaching 600W and greater, these units start increasing to 6.3" (160mm) and more. That butts into the DVD connectors.
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Choosing the Right Power Supply

First things first. If you've got a poor-quality and/or faulty power supply, nothing else you do will work to solve your problems. Stick to the basics before you go further...The short answer is to buy a hi-powered, brand name supply, like the new ENERMAX line (430 W or higher) or ANTEC True550. Almost nothing else will do with today's computers. In over 30 years of electronic/computer service, I have found that 85% or more of problems were power-related.
If you want to know more, read on...
Choosing The Right Power Supply
If you’re reading this, there’s a good chance that one of my colleagues or I believe that you could be experiencing problems with your power supply, based upon the symptoms you mentioned in your post, and provided you with this link. Relax, you’re not alone. In 30 years of electronic and computer troubleshooting, I’d say that the majority of the electronic, mainframe, mini, and microcomputer problems I’ve diagnosed and repaired were with the basic power the problematic device was receiving. The symptoms often included random reboots, crashing, the BSOD, lockups, etc.
(As the national support technician for few major computer service companies, working US Defense contracts, I was often the person that had to fly in and correct the problem, or “walk through” the on-site technician as he closely followed my instructions. I achieved success in my career by carefully reading the manuals, knowing where to go for more information that was otherwise unavailable to me, and/or systematically troubleshooting until the problems were discovered and repaired. I never had the option of giving up.)
The most overlooked component when building or upgrading a PC is the power supply unit (PSU). Some people use their old case and PSU when they upgrade. Some use the PSU that came with their new case. Some people even buy a new PSU. And most inexperienced builders all make the same mistake: The PSU that they’re trying to use is simply inadequate for the job.
Suppose you’re upgrading to a new motherboard, CPU, ram, and video card, but still using the old case and PSU. It’s most likely that you’re upgrading in order to build a machine that is more powerful, faster, has a more colorful display, can number-crunch more quickly, play the latest games, etc. These gains in performance all have one thing in common: They require more raw power. However, have you thought about where that power comes from?
Suppose you’re building a new system with a new case and PSU. Has it occurred to you that the company that you bought the case/PSU from might make more money if they skimp on the supply, even if the supply has a large wattage rating? Most bulk power supply manufacturers don’t make good PSU’s. They use older, cheaper technology, and slap on labels that represent the PSU’s peak outputs, and not their continuous output rating. These companies are intentionally misleading you in order to sell you an inferior product. Brands I avoid when building/repairing my friends’ and family’s computers: Allied, Q-Tec, Chieftech, and many others.
For those of you who bought a power supply separately, did you know that you’re only supposed to run a power supply continuously at 30-70% (with 50% being optimal) of its continuous rating for maximum efficiency (which means less heat to you)? Most inexperienced builders either buy PSU’s that are matched to their equipment’s continuous power usage, or ones that are even less powerful than they need. Why? Because they’re trying to save money.
I mean, what’s the fun in a power supply? You don’t get any games with it, there’s no more storage, hardly ever any more bells and whistles, etc. A power supply is boring, and it’s supposed to be, because it’s supposed to provide a stable, reliable platform upon which the rest of the equipment can easily access the amount of power it needs, and when it’s needed. In almost EVERY review of powers supplies, the same point is stressed: Better safe than sorry.
But what does safe vs sorry mean? It can mean that you don’t have to waste money on the wrong PSU in the first place, but it can also mean that you don’t have to replace your expensive ram, CPU, video card, etc. NEEDLESSLY, or because your cheap PSU destroyed them. What? A cheap power supply can wreck your computer? YES IT CAN. A cheap power supply can cause thermal damage, not only from the heat it produces, but also the heat it can create in your components as well. RAM is especially sensitive to heat, and there’s RAM in your CPU, your video cards, and, well, your RAM too. A cheap switching power supply, run at its maximum, or peak, continuously can also destroy components by creating RF (Radio Frequency) signals on your power rails, signals which the components on your peripheral devices were not equipped to handle in the first place.
So this begs the question, how does one choose the right power supply? I’ll illustrate this using my own PC as the example. This is my setup that I use for video processing:
K7N2G-ILSR
Athlon 2500+ Barton @ 2125Mhz
AMD Retail Heatsink/Fan
2 - 512MB DDR333 w/Thermaltake Spreaders (slot 1&3)
MSI TV@nywhere Video Capture
ATI Radeon 9600
120GB Maxtor DiamondMax Plus 9 SATA
30GB Quantum IDE
TEAC DV-W50E DVD/CD-R/W
BTC DVD-ROM Drive
Artec CD-R/W
Using this Power Supply Calculator link:
http://www.jscustompcs.com/power_supply/
I plug in all my equipment values, but some of this can be a little tricky. For example, since I often run the CPU like an XP 3000, I choose the 3000 as my processor; it’s the same chip run at the faster rate. I also choose the ATI Radeon video card, and I select the RAM wattage for 2 sticks of DDR. I also choose every card I have, like my video capture card, but I also select the boxes for the separate cards that correspond to the functions that my ILSR provides as well (and that I use), like sound, USB, Firewire, NIC, etc. Although I use the onboard SATA controller, I don’t select the SCSI PCI card, because, in truth, I’ve probably made up for it by selecting all the other corresponding devices, including cards that the motherboard replaces. I check the boxes for the fans and drives I use, and I’m done, right?
Not yet.
I just remembered that I plan to upgrade soon, so I go back and change the values to reflect my impending changes. I mean, I want to make sure that I have enough power to begin with so that I don’t have to replace the power supply again, right?
Ok. Done. I look at the bottom and see that it tells me that I need a 468 watt PSU. So a 480 watt supply will do, right? Wrong.
Remember that, for efficiency, long-life, and less heat, you want your actual power consumption to fall between 30-70% of the PSU’s rating, so add 30% (minimum) to the 468, and you get 468 + (468*.30)= 608 Watts! Holy Cow!
However, I’d only need a 608-Watt supply if I was using all the devices at once, and I don’t. But, in truth, with video and audio processing, I often get close when I process, burn, and monitor at the same time. (Hardcore gamers also get close a lot, as they blast the sound and push that video to its limits.) So, let’s take off 10% (maximum) of 608, for a total of 541 Watts.
I need a 550 Watt supply, but not just ANY 550 watt PSU. I need a supply that can give me enough power on the critical 3.3, 5, and 12V rails combined. I also want a supply from a trusted, name-brand manufacturer, so I start hitting the many online reviews. Here are just two from Tom’s Hardware:
http://www6.tomshardware.com/howto/20030609/index.html
http://www6.tomshardware.com/howto/20021021/index.html
Read these in their entirety. I didn’t post them because they’re pretty links.
In the end, I chose Antec, because they’ve got the reputation, the recommendation, and because the Antec True550 has better specs than the rest of the 550 Watt competition. I also bought it from a reputable company I found on Pricegrabber.com, for the lowest price I could find, $95.00 shipped to my door. (In truth, I wanted two mini-redundant supplies, like the hospitals and military use, but they were too expensive.)
The result? Not only are the random reboots, crashing, the BSOD, lockups, etc., gone like magic, but I also now have “peace of mind” in that whatever might happen to my equipment in the future, I know almost for certain that the PSU is NOT the problem. I also bought an UPS, because the East Coast Blackout proved to me that even the Antec True550 isn’t going to provide me any power for emergency shutdown if it doesn’t get its power from somewhere.
Even if your problem doesn’t lie in the PSU completely, it gives you a GREAT platform for troubleshooting further. If you’re not reasonably certain that the supply is the cause, borrow one, or buy one that you can return once you’ve solved the problem. But, above all else, BUY THE RIGHT SUPPLY before you do anything else! Otherwise, you could be plugging and unplugging components, buying and blowing up expensive memory, and causing even further damage, until you give up or die.
I mean, I assume you built your own system to enjoy “more bang for your buck,” right? What’s the fun of a random reboot in the middle of Unreal Tournament 2003?
William Hopkins
Former Staff Sergeant, USAF
B.A., B.S., with Honors
The University of California, San Diego
[email protected]
P.S. It should be noted that while Enermax, ThermalTake, Zalman, Fortron, and others make great PSU’s, and I compared and considered them, the Antec still won out overall in my critical evaluation, like it did in so may others’ reviews. You’d probably be ok if you went with another reputable manufacturer as listed above, but pick a supply that gives you at least 230 watts on the 3.3 and 5V lines combined, and still meets the 30% criteria as stated above. Remember, if the manufacturers don’t give you maximum combined specs up front, they’re untrustworthy right off the bat. With power supplies, you definitely end up getting what you pay for. Don’t say nobody warned you.
P.P.S. Update! After recent developments, it looks like Enermax is the leader, but only the latest line of PSU's.

Ok, as an electrical engineer...I have to step in here! LOL
First, these amp rating are for 2 +12 rails. That is why you see a protection of around 15-18A on the +12 rail. That means each Rail is allowed up to 18A lets say for the new Enermax 1.2 version like the one I have.
Now, Lets say 18A for 12V....well as you know the Abit NF7-S uses the 12V for powering the CPU.
Lets say you have a Barton like me and you want it stable at around 2.4-2.5Ghz. You will have to put lets say around 2V to the cpu to get it stable at that kinda speed, specially if you have high FSB like I do. So 12V * 18Amps = 216W ....well the converter on the NFS-7 is really bad, its loss on the step down convertion is probably around 25% along with the PSU lost cuz its not running at 25oC (another 15%)....you will actually only get around 100-120W for the CPU.
Now, if you go into Sandra and see how much a Barton eats up at 2.4Ghz you will see its around 110Watts.
So, if you wanna push more, dont even think about it! Prime Power test fails and your +12 rail will drop as low as 11.60 Volts.
Now, lets say you got yourself a AMD 64 bit chip and you wanna overclock it....I bet it will need more than 110Watts.
So, what im saying is, dont buy nothing less than a 500 Watt PSU!
You really need around 20-22 A on the main +12 along with really really good cooling on the case and PSU so it is running at a 100%.
http://forums.amdmb.com/showindex.php?s=&threadid=287828
i found this quite interesting especially the bit re the power loss turning the 12v into 1.6v or what ever cpu needs

Picolit Power Supply Unit

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