Pictures are bright when viewed in photoshop

I have a couple of computers with calibrated monitors (Huey for both xp and vista). So if I view a photo in photoshop elements (4 and 7 and also ACR as I import DNG's) the picture is brighter than any other applications I view it in (iview, canon's digital photoshop pro, safari, ie7 etc) and the print (using canon printer, paper, ink and profile).
They are brighter even when displayed side by side with the other application running at the same time. Adobe gamma shows up in the control panel but I do not have it in the start folder. I have spent about a week searching around the web and found other people with this problem but no answer.
Currently I solve it by doing adjustments in ACR then just before bringing it in I bring the blacks lighter by 3 points. In photoshop I have a layers level at the top of the stack and have the black marker up 5 points. Just before I output to a file or print I turn that layer off. This gives me comparible results but it does not feel like the right solution.
Any ideas?
Tony

I have also observed the same and the reason is processing algorithm of each software is different for Camera-Raw Files.
Since Camera-Raw files are raw information which is processed by each software in different ways.
I have obsrved that results are better in ACR sometimes and in opposite way...
Its better to get JPG through the application where you are getting good view. Also you need to some experiments to conclude something. I use Nikon D200 and normally process my files in PSE-ACR. Rarely process them in Nikon-NX
When I shoot in NEF+JPG in Camera, I get different previews in PSE due to the same reason. But I find it useful...
+ Ripple (VJ)

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Hi
Hard to say as You don't suply any info on
• What photo file format, size You use
• How You go from photo to iDVD
And ! - Please do not Yell ! - Capitalized letters = Yelling in most forums and here a low and polite conversation most often will get better and more rapid results.
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iMovie'08 to 11 - discard every second line = less resolution
iMovie HD6 and FinalCut - full interlaced video over to iDVD (as good as it can be)
FotoMagico™ _ Great and even more so if result is burned as a Blu-Ray Disk
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DVD quality
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iDVD 6 has the two last ones
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• Best Performances (movies + menus less than 60 min.) - High quality on final DVD
• High Quality (in iDVD08 or 09) / Best Quality (in iDVD6) (movies + menus up to 120 min.) - slightly lower quality than above
About double on DL DVDs.
2. Video from
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• iMovie x-6 - Don't use ”Share/Export to iDVD” = destructive even to movie project and especially so
when the movie includes photos. Instead just drop or import the iMovie movie project icon (with a Star on it) into iDVD theme window.
• iMovie’08 not meant to go to iDVD. Go via Media Browser or rather use iMovie HD 6 from start.
3. I use Roxio Toast™ to make an as slow burn as possibly eg x1 (in iDVD’08 or 09 this can also be set)
This can also be done with Apple’s Disk Utilities application.
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5. I use Verbatim ( also recommended by many - Taiyo Yuden DVDs - I can’t get hold of it to test )
6. I use DVD-R (no +R or +/-RW)
7. Keep NTSC to NTSC - or - PAL to PAL when going from iMovie to iDVD
8. Don’t burn more than three DVD at a time - but let the laser cool off for a while before next batch.
iDVD quality also depends on.
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deliver anything better that this.
HD-DVD was a short-lived standard and it was only a few Toshiba DVD-players that could playback.
These DVDs could be made in DVD-Studio Pro. But they don’t playback on any other standard DVD-layer.
Blu-Ray / BD can be coded onto DVDs but limited in time to - about 20-30 minutes and then need
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_ BD disks and burner if full length movies are to be stored
_ BD-Player or PlayStation3 - to be able to playback
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Full BD-disks needs a BD-player (in Mac) as they need blue-laser to be read. No red-laser can do this.
• HOW much free space is there on Your internal (start-up) hard disk. Go for approx. 25Gb.
less than 5Gb and Your result will most probably not play.
• How it was recorded - Tripod vs Handheld Camera. A stable picture will give a much higher quality
• Audio is most often more critical than picture. Bad audio and with dropouts usually results in a non-viewed movie.
• Use of Video-editor. iMovie’08 or 09 or 11 are not the tools for DVD-production. They discard every second line resulting in a close to VHS-tape quality.
iMovie 1 to HD6 and FinalCut any version delivers same quality as Camera record in = 100% to iDVD
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other strange formats are .avi, .wmv, .flash etc. Convert to streamingDV first
Also audio formats matters. I use only .aiff or from miniDV tape Camera 16-bit
strange formats often problematic are .avi, .wmv, audio from iTunes, .mp3 etc
Convert to .aiff first and use this in movie project
• What kind of standard - NTSC movie and NTSC DVD or PAL to PAL - no mix.
(If You need to change to do a NTSC DVD from PAL material let JES_Deinterlacer_3.2.2 do the conversion)
(Dropping a PAL movie into a NTSC iDVD project
(US) NTSC DVDs most often are playable in EU
(EU) PAL DVDs most often needs to be converted to play in US
UNLESS. They are play-backed by a Mac - then You need not to care
• What kind of DVDs You are using. I use Verbatim DVD-R (this brand AND no +R or +/-RW)
• How You encode and burn it. Two settings prior iDVD’08 or 09
Pro Quality (only in iDVD 08 & 09)
Best / High Quality (not always - most often not)
Best / High Performances (most often my choice before Pro Quality)
Yours Bengt W

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kirmankatz:
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Do you Twango?
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Pictures are bright when viewed in photoshop

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