Pinkish Color Cast + bands

My 23" Cinema HD display has a distinct pink/red color cast to it throughout the whole screen, and more apparent pink banding at the top and bottom of the screen.
I've tried to calibrate it with the monitor calibrator but it still has the color cast. Anyone know how to fix it?

I bought a 20" ACD from the apple store here on July 21, 2007 and it had multiple stuck + dead pixels plus a bad pink cast in the upper right corner and on the right side. they exchanged that one and the 2nd one had one stuck blue pixel which is perfectly fine by me except this one also had really bad pink hues in the upper right corner and on the right side. they exchanged that one, the third one had the same pink hue as well as a blue vertical band just to the left of the screen and a pink vertical band on the far right. they refunded my money without any problems at all and the employees were the best people but the quality control for apple's LCD screens must be slacking off. I'm disappointed because I really want to get one of these but it's turning out to be a real gamble and potluck. There aren't any other decent LCD's that I can find for the same price so now I'm just basically screwed. All the screens I see in stores anymore are designed for gamers and DVD playback since they brag about their 2ms response time. nothing for photographers or designers. I wish apple would lay off the ipod and iphone crap for a while and concentrate a bit more on computers for a while. no wonder they dropped the "computer" from their name... outsourcing to china has done wonders for quality products...
Message was edited by: Mayor Mc. Cheese

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Pinkish Color cast in iphoto 08 ?

Hi everyone,
I recently purchased a new mac with ilife 08. I noticed in iphoto that when i double click on a picture and it enlarges it, i get a pinkish color cast over the picture. it does it with all the pictures in iphoto. the thumbnails in iphoto look fine. its just when i click to view it larger or in edit mode that i get the strange color cast. does anyone have any ideas what is causing this? I have tried searching the apple support forums , but i am not finding anything on this problem.
Any help would be appreciated.
Frank

Frank:
If you plan on ordering a book or other printed item using the monitor's color profile might not give you what you want. I have calibrated my monitor to the sRGB profile plus a change in gamma for brightness. This has given me excellent color rendition in any book, card or calendar that I've ordered.
You might try printing one also to see if it gets what you expect.
TIP: For insurance against the iPhoto database corruption that many users have experienced I recommend making a backup copy of the Library6.iPhoto (iPhoto.Library for iPhoto 5 and earlier) database file and keep it current. If problems crop up where iPhoto suddenly can't see any photos or thinks there are no photos in the library, replacing the working Library6.iPhoto file with the backup will often get the library back. By keeping it current I mean backup after each import and/or any serious editing or work on books, slideshows, calendars, cards, etc. That insures that if a problem pops up and you do need to replace the database file, you'll retain all those efforts. It doesn't take long to make the backup and it's good insurance.
I've created an Automator workflow application (requires Tiger or later), iPhoto dB File Backup, that will copy the selected Library6.iPhoto file from your iPhoto Library folder to the Pictures folder, replacing any previous version of it. It's compatible with iPhoto 6 and 7 libraries and Tiger and Leopard. iPhoto does not have to be closed to run the application, just idle. You can download it at Toad's Cellar. Be sure to read the Read Me pdf file.

Color Cast Strips in a Scanned Negative

I have scanned negatives that show a couple of subtle color cast stripes. In corrected space these show up as yellow, but in negative space they are only in the blue channel. The stripes seem to be on the negative and not a scanner artifact.
Can photoshop mask for these areas and correct the color ?

Some cross-posting here while I typed up mine (I didn't see Trevor's posts), but I didn't have time to comment further.
Yes, scanned negatives can be a nightmare. I would never attempt to batch that, I just do the most important ones individually and put the rest back in storage. It's just too much work. However:
If you have many negatives taken at the same time that show these color bands, you can use the same adjustment layer(s) on all of them. The adjustment layer can simply be dragged from the layers panel over to the next photo; or you can make a preset. If it's a single roll of film you may not even have to redo the mask.
Another advantage of "painting in" the adjustment is that if you overdo it you can press X and paint back very easily. The example you posted took only a couple of minutes, with two layers - one plus blue to kill the yellow, and then one minus blue for the excess blue on the right.

Color casts

I am getting the mesage:-
"Non-neutral gray patches. The gray patch in row 4, column 3, has a significant color cast. Please reshoot chart carefully to avoid color casts and try again." These are RAW images from my Panasonic FZ200.
I shot the first try in the garden against a concrete post surrouinding by a grey weathered fence in bright winter noon/early afternoon time sun. I then tried again with a large sheet of black paper as the backgroud with the sun approx 45 degrees to the chart. Same conditions.
If I import the RAW images into Photoshop Elements 11 "As shot" I find that the offending square reads:-
Noon time - R217,G220, B220 approx. As I move the cursor Band G remain near or the same value but R can be up to 3 or so points higher
Early afternoon - R201,G201, B191 approx. As I move the cursor R and G remain near or the same value but B can be up to 10 or so points lower
What could be causing the color casts and how can I avoid it. grass and other plants are a large feature in the surroundings.

I have reshot the chart using Daylight and Shade white balance; used auto before. The Profile editor has now made some profiles.
I have installed the *.dcpr files in:-
C:\ProgramData\Adobe\CameraRaw\CameraProfiles\Camera\Panasonic DMC-FZ200\Panasonic DMC-FZ200 Daylight.dcpr and
Panasonic DMC-FZ200 Shade.dcpr
I now wish to try these out.
When I open a RW2 image in Elements 11 and goto the camera tab the only choice I have is Adobe Standard.
Am I installing the dcpr files in the correct place?

Media Encoder adding RBG color casts on BW 16mm Footage

Hey Everyone,
I am really stumped by this one. I am working with FCP6 and Apple Pro Res HQ scans of 16mm B&W footage. I am trying to encode a self-contained .mov file (direct from FCP) in Adobe Media Encoder CC (for Blu-ray) and then burn to Blu-ray with Encore CS6.
I burned the first test Blu-ray last night and when I played it back on my Blu-ray player/TV, I was stunned by the fidelity and definition of the otherwise thick/complicated 16mm grain structure, even via what was only a 6GB .m4v render (compressed from 33.5GB .mov). Everything was perfect...EXCEPT...I got these horrible "color casts" of red, blue, green, magenta, across practically every shot in the footage. Particularly in the last shot of the drain pipe (see example clips 14 seconds long):
Original: https://vimeo.com/97456916 (pass: "original")
Blu-ray: https://vimeo.com/97453674 (pass: "colorcast")
Obviously the footage does not look this in either FCP6 or .mov in QT7. I just double checked and the color casts ARE visible when playing back the ME converted .m4v in Encore. I have also taken the .mov from FCP and brought that into Encore and NO COLORCASTS. I have also taken the .mov, reimported it to FCP and but a 3-Way Color Corrector on it and put the saturation at zero, exported that, and then ME>Encore and it still adds the color....So I am 99% positive this is a Media Encoder issue. Here are the settings I used:
Considering how long is has taken me to get satisfactory web compression results from 16mm footage in the past, I feel like I just hit a grand slam in the bottom of the 9th with the playback fidelity of the first test Blu-ray. The motion and definition are phenomenal, I mean we are talking Criterion quality--without X.264 or Blu Code--(even with all the modern "overcompensation" crap turned off on my TV). I AM SO SO CLOSE TO RENDERING/BURNING A PERFECT BLU-RAY IF I CAN JUST FIGURE THIS COLOR THING OUT!
Got a deadline to get this into the hands of a couple of prominent filmmakers.
Any help or ideas that anyone can provide will be most appreciated.
Thank so much!
Alec
MAC PRO // OSX 10.7.5 // 2 x 2.66Gmz 6-Core Intel Xeon // 32 GB 1333 MHz DDR3

***SOLUTION***
Well it seems silly that I had to do this at all, but here is the workflow that finally seemed to solve the issue without adding an extra level of encoding...
Save self-contained .mov of my timeline in FCP6 > bring that back in FCP as a separate sequence and apply the "Desaturate" filter (Image Control > Desaturate) to the entire film > save as self-contained .mov again > convert in AME > master and burn to Blu-ray with Encore > Presto!!! NO COLORCASTS on B&W 16mm footage in Encore and no colorcasts from the file on the burned Blu-ray disc.
I believe I stated it above, but in case I didn't, adjusting the chroma and/or "desaturating" via FCP's color corrector plugins did not work...even with the exact same workflow otherwise. I have no idea why, but if anyone ever runs into the same problem, this worked for me. Only took two weeks to do something that I guessed would take a day, maybe two. Geesh.
Thanks again guys for all the suggestions. Really really appreciate it.
-Alec

How to easily spot color cast in aperture

Hi,
I am having difficulties to properly spot/analyze a color cast in my (scanned from color negatives) images. There is no neutral grey or white present and I'd like to get a handle on correcting this color cast without just trial and error (and making things worse)
Any hints or ideas? Pointing me to a resource on the web to find out how?
(Spotting and correcting the color cast in my scanning software (Silverfast Ai) didn'd work as well)
Thanks a bunch,
Rolf

Hi Rolf -- you're question is not really answerable. Color is almost entirely subjective -- we color our world in our brains, and then we make machines to mimic this (digicam sensors don't record color -- they record luminance as filtered through known colored gels). Your question presumes an objective standard of color correctness. That does not exist.
Nevertheless, you can at least maximize your ability to get the colors as close to "right" as you can. For that you need a color-calibrated workflow, from input (scanner) to output (whatever). There is much information on this on the Web. For Aperture, you'll want a hardware photospectrometer to calibrate your monitor(s) and whatever paper you print on (if you print). I use a Color Munki Photo, and recommend it or something similar. (X-Rite has recently announced a revamped product line.) X-Rite also makes a calibration tool called a Passport. This has several colors and shades of gray of known hues. In use, you make an exposure of these colored squares, and then use them to set the white balance. You might be able to something similar with a scanner. (I don't use one, and don't know anything about scanner calibration.)
HTH. Sorry not to know more.

How to Recover a Dark Picture with a Heavy Color Cast

I just posted this article about how to recover a dark picture with a heavy
color cast using Lab Color mode in Photoshop. I hope it will be helpful to
others.
http://www.braintrove.com/article/58
Greg Collins
Microsoft MVP
Visit Braintrove at http://www.braintrove.com

None taken. I am unfamiliar with ACR and would love to see (compare) what it
could do with the sample PNG file in the article, and how much time it took.
The results I achieved in the article took only a few minutes to
complete--though as I mention below, it took more than a few minutes to get
to the point where I could do it in a few minutes.
I happened across a web site one day discussing the techniques in Margulis'
LAB Color book, which interested me enough to purchase it. I found the book
very enlightening and have seen incredible results using the techniques he
describes as applied to my various images. I've also ready his Professional
Photoshop book which focuses more on CMYK, and found many techniques in
there just as enlightening.
Ultimately the tools and techniques used are irrelevant if you get the
results you want... but if you find one that works faster, easier or better,
then certainly you should employ it.
I have no problem working in RGB, CMYK or LAB and find benefits from each.
The particular sample image I used in the article was one that I've spent
(too much) time cleaning up in various ways and in various color spaces (or
combinations thereof). It became my "poster child" image to work on as I
continue to build my Photoshop skills. The approach I used in the article
was the one I found most to be the fasted with the most effective results.
The original was a 6MP JPG file. I reduced it to the size in the article and
then worked on that size for the remaineder of the article. The resutls are
equivelant in the fullsize file.
Greg Collins
Microsoft MVP
Visit Braintrove at http://www.braintrove.com

PP Program Monitor displays with a color cast

Hi all,
Having trouble with the display in the Program monitor. I'm working with still images at the moment. All the images have a strong blue cast when previewing. They look fine when exported, or if you click on the image to reposition, the color seems to correct, but as soon as I play the sequence the color cast comes back. Also, getting the same cast with .AVI video.
I am only having this issue on my laptop, all works fine on my desktop PC. Both machines are PC's running vista. I've also tried clearing my preferences and reinstalling PP. No luck.
I'm working in NTSC DV now, but have tried creating projects in HDV and others, and still have the problem.
Also, I've tried resizing the images, changing color spaces, etc, nothings worked. The images now are jpegs.
On another side note, opening the reference monitor causes PP to have an unexpected error and crash. Every time. Although this is not really the issue I am worried about at the moment, it might be relevant?
I've posted a sample of what the preview looks like here: www.jessicamans.com/PremierProCS4Issue/index.html
Thanks in advance for your help!
Jessica

Sounds like an overlay issue. Video card and drivers?

How to reduce purple color cast in high ISO Nikon D4 and D810 photos

In low-light photos taken with my D4 and D810 I often (but not always) get a severe purple color cast in the dark areas of the photo. I'm going to try posting a link to an example of one such photo, which I've put in my Dropbox account. I hope this works:
Dropbox - Example of magenta color cast-001.jpg
If the link works, you'll see what I mean: the dark areas are purple, not black as they should be. This was taken at the dress rehearsal for a play at ISO 3200, about the lowest ISO that I could get away with. The purple cast seems more pronounced along the edges of the photo.
I've read a bit about "amp glow"; is that what I'm seeing here? If it is, what can I do about it? Turning the camera off and on again and again to try to cool the sensor and the nearby electronics isn't much of an option.
And whether it's "amp glow" or something else, is there a good way to deal with it in Lightroom? I've had some success with reducing the purple saturation (and sometimes the purple luminance as well) in the "HSL" panel, but that becomes a problem if there are important elements in the photo which are SUPPOSED to be purple.
Any and all advice would be welcome.

dorffersmatt wrote:
Interestingly, my e-mail says there was another post about how to reduce the purple cast with proper in-camera settings, but now that post seems to have been deleted (by the poster? by somebody at Adobe?)
The poster (Drugstore) may have deleted the post after reading further because it may not have been relevant......just a guess. If you're shooting raw format the in-camera settings such as white balance are not applied to the image file, but they are for JPEGs. The suggestions I provided are applicable to both JPEG and raw image files, but you'll get the best results using raw format.
dorffersmatt wrote:
1) You said that you sometimes see the purple cast with your D4 and D810 if the white balance isn't set properly. What would you consider a proper white balance setting for a situation such as this one? It was the dress rehearsal for a play, with constantly shifting lighting. I just left the white balance on "Auto"; how would you have approached the situation?
Again, this only applies to JPEG format image files. For raw image files the WB EXIF data is read and set accordingly inside LR. For JPEGs the image data has the (incorrect?) WB applied in-camera, which compromises the dynamic range of the JPEG 8-bit/color data. Raw files are 16 bit/color.
dorffersmatt wrote:
2) You said that you also sometimes see it if "you activate the lens correction in LR while in raw mode and exposure is too low." Could you elaborate on that? Do you mean that I shouldn't use "Enable profile corrections" in the "Lens Corrections" panel?
I'm guessing this refers to what you call "amp glow" (amplifier glow). It usually appears as a higher exposure level around the edge of the image and may be confined to one area (top, bottom, sides). By turning off Lens Profile corrections ( "Enable profile corrections") Vignetting correction is not applied, which reduces the exposure level in the corners and frame edges. Some cameras automatically apply distortion and/or vignetting correction in-camera when shooting in JPEG format. Again, this is just another reason why you want to use raw format to get the best results inside LR.

2.1.2, previews with color cast

After updating, previews are generated with a heavy color cast, some green, red and yellow casts. White balance and tint are all wrong, what's amazing is that a few of them are fine which have the same shooting settings as the wrong ones, going back to 2.1.1, real weird, anyone with similar situation? any fix?

firstlaunch wrote:
You can locate it in the following directory:
System/Library/CoreServices/RawCamera.bundle
Get info on this file. If it is version 2.0.9, it's the latest dcrcu 2.2. You want to delete this file.
Once you delete, go to the following location and re-install the old one. It should be 2.0.6...I think.
http://www.apple.com/support/downloads/digitalcamerarawcompatibilityupdate21.htm l
Reboot your system.
Thanks for the info. Much appreciated.

Strong color cast in prints

I'm printing from Aperture to an Epson R800 and the prints come out with a very strong red/brown color. Its not like a subtle cast from, say a miscalibrated monitor (monitor is a Dell 2407 WFP A02 calibrated with a Huey pro).
I have the following relevant settings:
Printer profile: SPR800 prem glossy
Media Type: premium lossy photo paper
Advanced/Best photo/Gloss on.
AFAIK these are the correct settings.
I spoke to Epson who suggest I use colour controls to correct the color cast - what price colour management!

first tested Lightroom 2.1 and it works as it should so does PSE4 but not PSE6
PSE6 Mac Printing Colours darker than PSE4 - Adobe accepts fault
My work requires that when I create prints for artists I must replicate all the prints exactly everytime. It worked perfectly from PSE2, PSE3 and PSE4 but now......
I am unable to replicate quality of printing on MACOSX PSE6. it works great on PSE4. I mailed some printed images on art paper to adobe in amsterdam and a cd with the same images. After weeks of discussions phone, email and after testing using their work flow....they came back with some answers.
Finally a couple of replies from Adobe re colour problems and they have accepted that they are double managing the image and that I should use printer management to do the colour conversion.. here are their two replies and the comment that they will now drop me until???????   
Answer #1   Your Customer Service Number is: 129800224  PSE6 Mac Printing Colours darker than PSE4 - Adobe accepts fault
My work requires that when I create prints for artists I must replicate all the prints exactly everytime. It worked perfectly from PSE2, PSE3 and PSE4 but now......
I am unable to replicate quality of printing on MACOSX PSE6. it works great on PSE4. I mailed some printed images on art paper to adobe in amsterdam and a cd with the same images. After weeks of discussions phone, email and after testing using their work flow....they came back with some answers.
Finally a couple of replies from Adobe re colour problems and they have accepted that they are double managing the image and that I should use printer management to do the colour conversion.. here are their two replies and the comment that they will now drop me until???????   
Answer #1   Your Customer Service Number is: 129800224   Thank you for contacting Adobe Technical Support.   After consulting with my colleagues about the issue you raised, I can let you know the following:   The issue is both on our as well as the driver software side and the workaround we have given is the best available at this time. This issue is affecting all printers, not just Epson or Canon.   The soft proofing effect that you are seeing in the print preview is indeed an attempt at soft proofing. However since Photoshop Elements managed prints are incorrectly double colour managed it is not as useful as it was initially designed.   As to the exact details of why this occurred, we have no official information.   We believe that this will resolve the issues you are experiencing, however, should the reply not help solve the problem, please contact us again, quoting the case number given above, and we will re-open the case.
  Answer # 2  Subject: Re: Adobe TS #180107025 / Mario / PSE6 oversaturated Print (KMM3793441I51L0KM)   Dear Mr. Laugesen,   We have had word back from our engineers regarding your issue.   The Photoshop Elements team are aware of the problem and are working with Apple and the printer manufacturers to get this to work correctly. In the meantime, the only workaround is to switch off colour management in Photoshop Elements and let the printer handle the colour management.   Unfortunately we can not make an estimation as to when a fix will be provided. We will close the case for the time being as there really is nothing more we can do about this issue besides offering the suggested workaround. Closing this case does not mean that the research will stop however and the engineers are working on a solution to this.   Powerbook G4 Mac OS X (10.4.11) epson R2400

How to remove cool/Blue color cast in pictures

I had incurrect setting when taking some pictures, which turned the pictures blue. Is there a way to correct this in Elements 9?
Message title was edited by: Brett N

The 'color cast' correction I mentionned above is really the simplest, 'one click' tool in Elements, but there are other ways.
My favourite one is to open the photo (even jpegs) in ACR. Then you have the same interface than with raw file, and the temperature and tint sliders.
The advantage is that once you have corrected one picture (also a one click sampling of neutral white/gray), the settings can be used for the next picture. You can correct a batch of images rapidly.
Edit:
To open a jpeg in ACR, use 'Open As' instead of 'Open' in the editor. On the bottom line for the file format, select the 3rd option 'Camera raw...' not the first 'Photoshop raw'.

Does Touch have "remove color cast" and adjust lighting - levels like Photoshop Elements?

Does Touch have "remove color cast" and adjust lighting -> levels like Photoshop Elements?

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Color cast removal

I am scanning old family photos. I prefer not to do any post-processing in the scanning software, but I really like how SilverFast AI has an "Auto Color Cast Removal" function.
Is there any way I can match this setting with a preset in Lightroom?
Here's the one that's been auto color corrected:
And here's the original

Google finds lots of answers, such as this one
How to Achieve the Correct White Balance in Lightroom | iHeartFaces.com

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I am using a Huey Pro to calibrate my monitors for use with Aperture. After calibration both my MacBook Pro and iMac have a very red color cast.
Thanks,
Ken

have you tried reporting this on the pantone support site - if you do a search there, you'll find a couple of problems mentioning the same thing your seeing.
I have the same problem and it could be a broken calibrator.

Pinkish Color Cast + bands

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