Pismo CPU upgrades/heat sink

Does anyone know if the 400 mhz heatsink and 500 mhz heatsink are interchangeable?
PowerMac G4 MDD 1.25 Ghz, PowerBook G3 Pismo 400, Newton 2100, iPod Photo 30 gb Mac OS X (10.3.9)

Hi Gerry:
Are you replacing just the heat sink, or the entire processor daughter-card? If the heat sink and tube only, yes, they are interchangeable. Be sure you apply a thin, even layer of thermal compound on the processor after removal of the old heat sink and before installation of the new.
Good luck.
cornelius
Message was edited by: cornelius

Similar Messages

G3 Pismo processor replacement - no heat sink bracket???

Hi there
This is kind of related to a previous and still running thread to do with my dead pismo but I thought I would start a separate thread for this problem. I just got a replacement processor for my Pismo but there doesnt seem to be anywhere to screw the two screws in from the heat sink that will sit above it - i have seen in other photos that there is usually a round plastic bracket with two screw holes that sits on top of the processor? Any advice? or is different for certain processors?
thanks

troy:
are any of the later G4 Powerbook processors interchangable with the Pismo?
Unfortunately, no Would have been nice, though.
a G4 processor and a gig of RAM I know the Pis would be a great back-up
There are several threads in this forum which discuss processor upgrade. This one traces my own decision making process. As you will note in the thread, this is not an inexpensive upgrade. In my case it was an easy decision since this is my primary computer. I recommend getting your computer going and see it runs for you. At later stage, if you decide to go this route, you can research the different threads, and, maybe, even post one of your own. There are many Pismo owners who have upgraded and would love to share their stories.
can you recommend G4 processors available for the Pismo
Mine is by Wegenermedia, and although it works fine and my experience with Wegener was not bad, others have had very negative experiences. I hesitate to recommend Wegener. Look at the others mentioned in the thread. Give yourself some time to research and think about it.
Good luck.
cornelius

Heat Sink on MacBook Pro (mid 2012)

I recently acquired a mid-2012 MacBook Pro that is in need of repair. The device was advertised by the seller as needing repair, and I wanted to experiment in repairing such a problem.
The MBP suffered the symptoms of a failed logic board - no power, LEDs don't light up on either the side of the Mac or the MagSafe Adapter. Per the tutorial on Ifixit.com, I took a look inside the laptop and was able to safely remove the logic board. As I examined the heat sink and the thermal paste connecting it to the processor, I found that the paste had completely dried up. In other words, as I completed part 3 of Step 27 ("Carefully remove the heat sink from the processor."), the heat sink could be removed immediately after I unscrewed it from the logic board - no need to use the spudger to loosen the paste. While examining the interior, the battery also seemed to have signs of wear (the screw tab closest to the optical drive appears cracked); no damage/leakage of battery cells detected.
What are my options at this point? Will it be worth it if I try to clean the old paste from the heat sink & processor, then reapply as instructed (on ifixit.com or other reputable DIY repair sites)? Or, because the battery is slightly damaged in addition to the lack of processor-to-heat sink connectivity, would it be easier/better in the long run to make an appointment at my nearest Apple Store for a Genius Bar consultation?
Thanks for any advice & comments!

Re: Heat Sink on MacBook Pro (mid 2012)
created by PlotinusVeritas in MacBook Pro - View the full discussion
This solved my question This helped me
And why again are you worried about re-applying thermal paste to the heat sink to CPU on logic, ...since youve already indicated the logic board is fried....?
I assume you got a new logic and are asking about grabbing some white thermal paste off Ebay.....or?
... or I'm basically seeking the opinions of more experienced members of the Community (such as yourself ) that can verify my attempt to personally fix the device are not worth it, and are better left to Apple's Geniuses.
Actually, I haven't gotten a new logic board yet. More or less, I was taking it apart for inspectional purposes only. I wasn't intending to remove the heat sink, but the thermal paste was already worn out. I am not sure if the logic board is fried, though after examining the whole laptop some more, the previous owner may have tried to do some fixing/upgrading and failed (foam missing, a bracket for the HDD missing also). I was examining the logic board to determine if there have been any liquid damages to the machine - none found, to the best of my knowledge.

Dv6 2120ev cpu upgrade

Hello,
I have a DV6 2120ev laptop with Core i3 cpu and I would like to upgrade it to either i5 or i7.
Is it possible without replacing the whole motherboard?
If yes, which CPUs are compatible?
Thank you
This question was solved.
View Solution.

marmelaki wrote:
Hello,
I have a DV6 2120ev laptop with Core i3 cpu and I would like to upgrade it to either i5 or i7.
Is it possible without replacing the whole motherboard?
If yes, which CPUs are compatible?
Thank you
Hi,
Intel Core i5-580M is definitely compatible as it takes 35W (same as the original Core i3). I believe that even Core i7-720QM, 740QM, 820QM and 840QM are compatible but they require a different heat sink/fan (part number is 604787-001).
Dv6-7000 /Full HD/Core i5-3360M/GF 650M/Corsair 8GB/Intel 7260AC/Samsung Pro 256GB
Testing - HP 15-p000
HP Touchpad provided by HP
Currently on Debian Wheeze
*Please, help other users with the same issue by marking your solved topics as "Accept as Solution"*

Heat Sink Screw for V40z Opteron Daughter Board

Would anyone know where to get a Heat Sink Screw Assembly for a V40z Opteron Daughter board?
It's the Type A, with external threads on the spring assembly and internal threads on the standoff. see
http://docs.sun.com/source/817-5248-20/chapter4.html#83890

Re: Heat Sink on MacBook Pro (mid 2012)
created by PlotinusVeritas in MacBook Pro - View the full discussion
This solved my question This helped me
And why again are you worried about re-applying thermal paste to the heat sink to CPU on logic, ...since youve already indicated the logic board is fried....?
I assume you got a new logic and are asking about grabbing some white thermal paste off Ebay.....or?
... or I'm basically seeking the opinions of more experienced members of the Community (such as yourself ) that can verify my attempt to personally fix the device are not worth it, and are better left to Apple's Geniuses.
Actually, I haven't gotten a new logic board yet. More or less, I was taking it apart for inspectional purposes only. I wasn't intending to remove the heat sink, but the thermal paste was already worn out. I am not sure if the logic board is fried, though after examining the whole laptop some more, the previous owner may have tried to do some fixing/upgrading and failed (foam missing, a bracket for the HDD missing also). I was examining the logic board to determine if there have been any liquid damages to the machine - none found, to the best of my knowledge.

N660TI 2GB PE/OC - increased temp after cpu upgrade

so its like this, i recently upgraded my cpu from an old 3-core Athlon II to an i5-4690k, and i find that my gpu is running much warmer than it has as long as ive owned it, both in terms of peak temp and average load temp. ive had to adjust the fan profile to keep it cool, which of course makes much more noise. ive also noticed that the outboard fan (closest to the bracket&video out connectors, doesnt even spin unless the fan is set to 86%, which undoubtedly conttributes to the heat problem.
i DID take a can of compressed air to the heat sink and fans while i had my system apart installing the new cpu, but it still has a bit of dust on the underside of the fans that i cant get too, unless i take off the entire heatsink, which im not about to do. case has dustfilters on all the major intakes as well, so its not like suddenly it grew dust bunnies in the past 3 days
settings and such here: hxxp://imgur.com/a/ykjm8 (replace hxxp with http, duh)
i bought this 660ti the day they came out, so its about 2.5 years old or so. generally speaking, load temp was mid-50s C, or low 60s if its really hot. the absolute peak ive seen in all that time was 76, which is what the scale on the afterburner graph is set at. after installing the i5, load temps (guildwars 2 for sake of exmaple) are are mid-60s, and ive seen a peak of 78.
specific model again is teh msi N660TI power edition/over clock 2gb, (which i guess is one of those that had a voltage regulator bypass, according to tomshardware), gpu bios is stock, latest nvidia drivers 347.52 WHQL, msi afterburner 4.1.0, no overvolting, stock clocks (athlon couldnt keep up with overclocking anyway and it runs too warm to overclock now) graphs are shown under load with guildwars 2, high quality settings at 1920x1080 windowed, vsync@60fps, in characters home instance. the fan profile shown is after i bumped it up, high mark was around 70%/70c at the time.
droping the power level in afterburner to 57% helps the temp a bit, as does underclocking it as far as it'll go. i also have a 12cm fan i could install in my case's side panel, right next to the gpu, to draw air out (cause thats where the gpu exhausts at), i also have another 12cm fan installed at the bottom of the case blowing up towards the gpu roughly in line with the inboard gpu fan.
anything i can do about that one fan? i dont really want to have to run at 90% fan speed all the time to keep it cool (especially with summer comming up, no A/C here, gonna get hot as balls) or is it time to upgrade?

Hi,
I might be wrong here, as I don't know much about AMD CPUs, however I think that your old 3 core Athlon was bottlenecking the GPU which did not let it use its full power. Now with your i5 Haswell Refresh, it uses its full potential which cause slightly higher temps.
You could reapply thermal paste on the graphics card (done at your own risk) if you don't have warranty on it any longer. If you do, then contact MSI in your country and ask if you can do it (obviously if you damage something then warranty is void)
>>How to contact MSI.<<

CPU upgrade! Comments?

Hi!
I just purchased the CPU upgrade for my 533MHz (DA) G4!
The CPU upgrade I bought from OWC just tonight. I've never heard of this one before
and I was wondering what users on these boards thought and what it's potentials can be.
It's a PowerLogix PowerForce55, Motorola/Freescale Superscalar MPC7455 PowerPC G4 800MHz processor, running at 1GHz. It has the heat sink preattached and it's supposed to be super easy to install.
It also says I need to update the firmware. What would this mean for this Mac? It already runs OS X 10.3.9.
I got it for $100. I thought it was a great deal.
Could this run Leopard?
Thank you,
Mike

Hi-
You need to have firmware v4.2.8.
Downloads are here:
http://support.apple.com/kb/HT1395
You must have OS 9 installed, and boot to OS 9 to update the firmware.
Open your System Profiler (About This Mac/More Info/Hardware), and see what firmware (Boot ROM) version is currently installed.
A 1GHz processor will allow install and run OS X Leopard.
You need a minimum of 512MB RAM (lots more recommended) and a DVD drive as other requirements.

Satellite M40x will not boot up after CPU upgrade test

I have an M40x Laptop. I took the CPU out of it to replace it with another to test the computer booted up fine so I shut down and took it out and put it's original CPU back in, and it would not boot. Now it will not boot up at all with either of the CPU's all. When I turn on the power all I get is a white screen for a few seconds and the laptop shuts itself back down. Both the CPU's are good because I have since tested them in other computers to make sure that was not the problem.
Anyone have any ideas on what is causing this??

Im not surprised.
As far as I know Toshiba does not support any CPU upgrades and it's not advisable to do something like that.
Its a fact that the CPU replacement on the notebooks is not easy and mostly not recommended.
The processors used in portables are connected to the system board using a process called TCP (Tape Carrier Package). This is a permanent connection method and is used in the interests of miniaturization and heat dissipation.
Did you assign the new heat paste? Its necessary and important if you want to connect the CPU again.
So possibly this is a reason for the no booting.
I think more details you will get from the service guys in your country

Cleaning heat sink on Macbook Pro Retina after liquid spill... HELP!

Hello all...
My wonderful boyfriend spilled about 3-4 tablespoons of orange juice on my Macbook Pro Retina (15in) on Thursday. Right over the left speaker and onto the ESC, ~, brightness up and down, 1, 2, 3, TAB, Q, W, Caps Lock, and A key. It also dripped down and got into the vent. I immediately (like within 1 second) grabbed it and turned it upside down, and wiped it up while holding it upside down. I then turned it off and held it upside down for some time, and let it sit open and off after that. I turned it back on the next day and had no apparent issues. (However today some of the keys have been "crunchy", so I think I better clean them...)
I couldn't get it to the Apple store until yesterday because of Hurricane Sandy and not having power or anything. I had the genius check it out. He could only take off the back without having to charge me anything and he said that none of the liquid sensors were tripped in the back of the computer but that there was some dried up orange juice in the heat sink (but apparently not really anywhere else which he said makes me the luckiest person in the world). He took a photo on his phone and showed me... just some residue and orange juice that looked "dried up" in like 5 or 6 of the vents. He said that I could try to clean it myslf with alchohol wipes and a toothpick at my own risk. But I am very nervous as I am not exactly tech savvy... I watched videos on how to take the back off, but the part about disconnecting the battery and all gets me nervous. My question is, do I have to disconnect the battery to just gently clean up the heat sink with a little toothpick and alchohol wipes? Do I have to ground myself? What do I do?
Also, how necessary do you think it is to even clean it up? Could the heat sink need to be replaced in the future from this? Is it really a big deal? I'm looking for honest answers, since I felt like the genuis guy had too much liabality to say anything to me about anything.
Unrelated, what are the chances that liquid got through the keyboard to anything more sensitive to liquid? The genius couldnt really give me an answer. I have noticed just as I am typing now that sometimes it seems that the cursor of where I am typing will just jump back to the end of the previous line when I hit the Caps Lock key... it's very strange and I'm getting agita just thinking about it. Could that be a problem with just my keys getting stuck somewhere or a bigger problem with hardware being damaged... help and THANK YOU!

When i start any game the CPU goes up to 90° in 2 minutes and the computer shutdown after at least 5 min.
I found a solution. after a lot of research i checked that my fans are working on the minimum means at 2000 rpm even when the games are on. so i install it a software called smcFancontrol that u can control ur fan speed and i make it up to 4000 pm (you can do it with iStat menu too) and i tested my computer. I Have been playing on my macbook pro since this morning and there is no problem of overheat or shutdown.
Is it normal that we need to change the fan configuration or control to play a game that was working fine before.?
for cooling my machine i have a mStand Rain design http://www.raindesigninc.com/pic_high%20res/mstand_macbookpro_keyboard_perspecti ve_unibody.jpg

CPU upgrades for 466 G4 PowerMac?

I have a 466 G4 PowerMac & was wondering about CPU upgrades. I have seen sites which offer dual core upgrades for these machines but have also been advise that they can be more trouble than worth + cost may not justify. Can anyone provide info or alternative?
i understand it may be cheaper & easier to upgrade machine but have just bought 200g HD, extra mem, and DVD writer & would like to keep it.
cheers,
DJ

Hi
IMHO dual processor upgrades have advantages and disadvantages.
On the one hand OS X does make good use of dual processors and most apps these days seem to be multithreaded to some degree. I guess this will only improve in the future as more machines are released with dual processors and/or dual cores and more software is produced to take advantage of them. I guess the main exception is games, some of which only make use of one processor, but then if you're running more than one app at a time, you'll still be using both processors to some degree.
On the other hand, dual processor upgrades are more expensive, both processors share the same relatively slow 133MHz system bus and in general are 'only' 40% faster than a single processor running at the same speed, they generate more heat and most 7447 based upgrades are overclocked, so two overclocked processors are perhaps going to be more problematical.
I agree with PB PM in that a single 1.4GHz 7455 based upgrade (with level 3 cache) would give you the most bang for the buck. IMHO the 466MHz Digital Audio G4 is the computer likely to gain the most from a processor upgrade, as it was the slowest G4 produced to still have a 133MHz bus and x4 AGP slot etc.

Question about the heat sinks in these models

Hey all,
Can anyone tell me about the heat sinks used in these model laptops?
Here are my questions:
Are they made from pure copper?
What is inside the tubes that run between the processor covers and the fan? Is it just air? or something else?
Is the thermal paste that sticks to the processors toxic?
I'm not sure this is the right place to ask but thought i might as well try.
Solved!
Go to Solution.

you mean the entire T series range, or are you after information on a specific T model?
1) most of the parts are made of pure copper
2) there is a working fluid within heat pipe, which should either ethanol or acetone. The phase change from liquid to gaseous phase is what transports the heat away from CPU/GPU/motherboard chipsets.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Heat_pipe
3) thermal paste usually contains silicon and silver, it is not to be ingested as such.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Thermal_grease
Regards,
Jin Li
May this year, be the year of 'DO'!
I am a volunteer, and not a paid staff of Lenovo or Microsoft

The Macbook Pro 13 Retina late 2013 heat sink

Did any body notice the unusual design of heat sink in Macbook Pro 13 Retina late 2013? The heat sink only covers CPU but NOT the iris GPU. I wonder why is it designed like this? The GPU can generate much more heat under certain conditions.

Hi All, sorry about this post, I studied the architecture of Haswell chips, find out the small little one is the PCH not GPU.

Early 2008 Mac Pro CPU Upgrade

About 6 months ago, I purchased a early 2008 MacPro with a single quad-core 2.8 ghz CPU. Is it possible to add the second processor to this machine?

Yes it is possible, but most likely not financially viable.
You will void your warranty and of the more difficult items to track down will be the heat sink for the CPU! Mind you, finding a 2.8Ghz CPU will be difficult on it's own. But in essence, if you have some cash to blow and are willing to get your hands full of thermal paste, then yes, have a go!
http://www.hardmac.com/articles/72/
and
http://www.o0o.it/pro/
Remember, on your head be it!
-Jacques

Best cleaning steps for g4 processor and heat sink?

I just pick up a dual 800 quicksilver cpu. What is the least expensive/best way to clean the die surfaces as well as the heat sink surfaces? Also does anyone know a link showing stable higher than originally rated speeds?

Hi pheidius-
The surface description is odd- I would expect it to be smooth (as all heatsink surfaces I have seen).
You may be correct on the thermal pad. It would be the only logical explanation..... I've never really "dissected" a thermal pad before- just scraped them off and tossed 'em.
If it is a thermal pad, you may have clearance problems with just thermal compound. This is, of course, dependant on the thickness of the previous pad......Just check the heatsink and it's contact on the processor after you have finished cleaning the thermal pad from the heatsink. It should be obvious if there will be clearance problems.
Recommended removal proceedure for a thermal pad is to use a plastic card (like a credit card) or a plastic putty knife.
When replacing thermal pads, after the old is completely removed, the heatsink surface needs to be heated until hot to the touch (use a heat gun), and then apply the new pad, pushing the pad on firmly and evenly.
Note: When using thermal pads, wait until the heatsink and pad are cool before removing the protective paper and installing on the processors.
If you end up using thermal compound, carefully apply the compound. Getting sloppy, and applying too much, especially with Arctic Silver, can cause problems. The compound is not just thermally conductive.......it is also electrically conductive.
Back to the overclocking question- This article may be of interest.

Will Exterior Heat Sinks Help My Burning Lap(top)?

Hi,
I have a mid-2012 13" MPB with a 2.9 GHz Intel Core i7 that I use out in the field and on set for video edits, Lightroom exporting, and other slightly heavy-duty processing (like 300% CPU usage). The problem is that the computer gets really hot (temp readings over 200F) and it's uncomfortable to be around, especially if using it in my lap.
Questions:
Would gluing head sinks to the exterior bottom case help get rid of the heat faster?
Would more cooling change performance for the better when its under load?
Is there a chance of it messing with the electronics inside or warping the case?
What if I sit the computer on a bag of ice while it's doing its heaviest processing? Would that be a bad idea or a good idea?
Thanks for the input.
RS

TommyBadger wrote:
Would gluing head sinks to the exterior bottom case help get rid of the heat faster?
Glue would act like an insulator. Resting the MBP on a thick aluminum plate in direct contact would act as a heat sink and help dissipate the heat.
Is there a chance of it messing with the electronics inside or warping the case?
Not likely.
What if I sit the computer on a bag of ice while it's doing its heaviest processing? Would that be a bad idea or a good idea?
Bad idea. Water and MBPs are enemies. Dry ice might work but in a humid environment, but it might create frost which the MBP would not favor.
Try a cooling pad or a large passive heat sink.
Ciao.

Pismo CPU upgrades/heat sink

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